Showing posts with label non-alcoholic drinks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label non-alcoholic drinks. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 11, 2024

The Origins of the Orange Julius: Who Actually Invented It?

--West Bank Herald (LA), June 19, 1930

The history of the Orange Julius, which extends back nearly 100 years. It began with a former cigar salesman and a real estate broker. There is a connection to New England. And there was a significant embezzlement which rocked the Orange Julius company, yet it hasn't received its due attention from prior researchers on the history of Orange Julius.  

The Orange Julius is a frothy citrus drink, basically a mixture of ice, orange juice, and secret food powders. The exact recipe is a corporate secret, although you can find plenty of different recipes online to make your own Orange Julius at home. I've loved Orange Julius since I was a child, commonly buying them at local malls, and I still enjoy them, although now I have to go to certain Dairy Queen stores to buy it.  

The co-creators of the Orange Julius were Julius Fried and Willard "Bill" James Hamlin, although Hamlin often gets much more credit. Its origins extend back to around 1925 or 1926, with a variety of conflicting accounts as to the specific year. The specific details of the creation of Orange Julius weren't documented until almost 30 years later, in 1953. 

At that point, one of the creators, Julius Fried, was deceased, so we are left with only a single version of its invention. Can we accept all of the details of that version? Does it conform to the known facts? Or was it embellished, for whatever reason? We also have to consider that after 30 years, memory can fade or details can be confused. We may never know the full truth, but information concerning an embezzlement may shine a new light onto this matter. 

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Let's begin by looking into the history of Julius Fried. He was born on February 7, 1880 in Cleveland, Ohio. His mother was Mina (or Minnie) Fried, although the name of his father was listed as "Unknown" on Julius' death certificate. I'll also note that a number of modern sources refer to him as "Julius Freed", although "Fried" appears to be his actual surname.

On May 30, 1895, when Julius was 15 years old, he boldly left Ohio and moved to Butte, Montana. Why did he make this 1800+ mile move? The newspapers don't provide any insight into his decision. There doesn't seem like he had any family in Montana. It was certainly a courageous decision, to travel so far away from home at his young age. What lured him to Montana? 

The first Montana newspaper to mention Fried was the Anaconda Standard (MT), May 2, 1897, which noted that he had just returned from a 2 month visit to see his family in Cleveland.

Cigars! The Anaconda Standard (MT), January 27, 1899, reported that Julius was a cigar clerk, and he was obviously experienced enough to be called as an expert witness in a trial over trademark infringement involving a cigar. C.H. Traiser & Co., a cigar manufacturer in Boston, produced the "Harvard" cigar and alleged that Herman Woolf, a cigar manufacturer in Butte, Montana, produced the "Herman" cigar, which seemed very similar to the Harvard. Julius testified that in his expert opinion the Herman was made to imitate the Harvard, and thus deceive the public. Ultimately, and despite Fried's expert opinion, the case was decided in favor of Herman Woolf.

It was noted in the Butte Miner (MT), May 30, 1899, that Julius had resigned his position as a city salesman for Louis S. Cohn, a merchant which sold cigars and other items, to take charge of the cigar department at E.E. Galloghy & Co., a drug store. 

Another trip for Julius. The Anaconda Standard (MT), September 5, 1901, mentioned that, “Julius Fried has gone to Chicago and New York for a month’s visit.” This trip though included a stop in Ohio. The Cleveland Leader (OH), September 15, 1901, noted that Julius was visiting his parents, Mr. and Mrs. M. Fried of 481 Woodland Avenue, Cleveland.  

The Butte Daily Post (MT), August 2, 1902, reported that Julius had purchased the old Heilbronner cigar stand at 23 East Broadway.  The above advertisement, in the Anaconda Standard (MT), August 31, 1902, may be his first ad for his new venture. Fried, aged 22, now worked for himself, and he seems to have been doing well if he was financially able to purchase his own business.    

The start of gamblings problems at the cigar shop. The Anaconda Standard (MT), January 13, 1903, reported that three local merchants, including Julius, had declined to obey an edict prohibiting slot machines. Apparently, Julius had some slot machines in his cigar shop. The three merchants were charge with violating the law prohibiting gambling, although the merchants claimed that they were being discriminated against, as gambling houses were allowed to freely operate and the police were only coming down on slot machines. The merchants were released on personal recognizance, and after his release, Julius returned to his cigar shop and, in defiance, continued to operate his slot machines. 

The Butte Miner (MT), January 13, 1903, added a little more detail, noting that the slot machines were mostly played for free cigars and drinks. The merchants were upset that “nickel machine operators” were being prosecuted while gambling houses acted with impunity. The Anaconda Standard, (MT) January 14, 1903, then reported that the judge had dismissed the charges against the three merchants, and his decision was met with plenty of applause in the court room. These three were not the only merchants who were operating slot machines in Butte, but they were the only three who had resisted attempts to prohibit slot machines. 

That wasn't the end of the matter though. The Anaconda Standard, January 18, 1903, stated that the Mayor had issued an order to his brother, Police Captain Davey, to stop slot machines, despite the recent judge’s decision. Five merchants were cited this time, although Julius was not one of the five. The judge wasn't happy, and the Anaconda Standard (MT), January 20, 1903, reported that he dismissed the charges against the five merchants and declared he wouldn't punish anyone for operating a slot machine.  This would effectively end any future arrests for operating slot machines. 

Lots of free cigars! The Butte Miner (MT), March 14, 1903, related the amusing story of Fried's cigar shop and one of his customers who never seemed to lose on the slot machines. “He usually averages at least two for one for his money and it is a common occurrence for him to get five for one.” And his best win on a slot machine? “Yesterday this customer took down twenty-seven cigars for a quarter....” Superb luck!

Slot machines weren't the only gambling game at Fried's cigar shop. The Butte Miner (MT), April 3, 1903, noted that the back room of the cigar store had card tables, where the game of "slough" was played, which may be another name for bridge. It was also mentioned that "Old Nick" was in charge of the card game and had been since the cigar shop opened. It wasn't a secret that card games were being played here, and eventually the police would get involved.

From 1902-1904, there were numerous ads for Fried's cigar store, advertising the different wares he offered from canes to pipes. He even repaired pipes in his "pipe hospital."  

Fried enters the photography business. The Billings Times (MT), April 24, 1906, reported that Fried and R.H. Post were doing business in Billings, Montana under the name and style of “Post, Photographer.” Post lived in Billings, although he previously lived in Butte and that is where he probably met Fried, and was likely responsible for the bulk of the business and Fried might have primarily provided financial support.  

More details on the photography business were provided in The Billings Evening Journal (MT), April 22, 1907, which noted R.H. Post had established his photography business in Billings about a year ago. the article stated, "Mr. Post has a handsome and well appointed studio at No.321 Stapleton block and produces photos and portraits in the highest perfection of the art." It also stated, "Mr. Post is a thorough artist and by his new processes makes the most perfect likenesses possible and all of his work is truly artistic."

The Anaconda Standard (MT), May 3, 1906, mentioned that Fried was off traveling again, planning to visit Chicago and New York. This might have been a business trip considering the next news about Fried.

The Butte Daily Post (MT), November 13, 1906, mentioned that Repetti, a famous confectioner of New York, was the creator of the “finest French caramels ever placed on the market" as well as “the originator of ‘candy pebbles,’ the latest triumph of the confectioner’s art.” In Butte, Fried was now carrying Repetti's products, as shown in the above ad from the Butte Daily Post (MT), November 22, 1906.

An honor for Fried. The Butte Evening News (MT), February 5, 1907, mentioned that Fried had been proposed for membership in the Phagacytes. The article stated, “This is a great honor and he will probably make it all right.” The Independent Order of Phagacytes was a new organization of "good fellows," which was "non-sectarian, non-conformist, non-political."

More card games and some arrests! The Anaconda Standard (MT), March 2, 1908, reported that six men had been arrested for playing draw poker at Fried’s cigar store. The game was raided at about 3:30am and Fried claimed no knowledge of the game, stating he had closed up the store and gone home several hours before the police raid. However, Fried was charged with violating the gambling prohibition. 

The matter dragged on for over a year. The Missoulian (MT), May 26, 1909, stated that the judge was making gamblers quite worried. He had recently sentenced one gambler to a $1000 fine and 1 year in the penitentiary. The judge said, “…it is the time that gamblers learned there is no place for them in this community.” Subsequently, Fried decided to plead guilty and only had to pay a $100 fine. He certainly didn't want to risk a trial with that judge.  

The gambling continued. The Butte Daily Post (MT), July 25, 1911, noted that a card game was found at Fried’s second cigar shop, located on West Park St. The police raided the shop at about 1:30am and they found a large number of men playing cards and many spectators. The police also checked out Fried's Broadway shop but found nothing there. A number of men were arrested but not Fried.  

However, the Anaconda Standard (MT), April 11, 1914, mentioned that in another incident, Fried had been charged with conducting games of chance. Two weeks later, he plead guilty and paid a $100 fine. The Butte Miner (MT), July 18, 1914, the reported that 11 men had been arrested for gambling, playing poker and whist, at Fried’s shop on East Broadway.

Robbery! The Butte Miner (MT), August 10, 1914, reported that 2 men held up the poker game at Fried’s East Broadway shop. They got away with at least $4,000 in cash and jewelry.  

A slap on the wrist. The Butte Miner (MT), September 15, 1914, reported on another raid at Fried’s East Broadway shop. Fried was arrested for permitting gambling. The next day, the Butte Miner (MT), September 16, 1914, noted that Fried was only fined $1, as the men had been merely playing bridge whist for “four bits and a dollar on the side.” It was clear that Fried wasn't going to stop card games from being played at his cigar stores. 

The Butte Daily Post (MT), July 16, 1917, mentioned the sad news that Mrs. Minnie Fried, the mother of Julius, had died on July 12 in Cleveland. 

A business takeover. The Butte Miner (MT), January 19, 1919, mentioned that Julius Fried had been in the cigar and candy wholesale business since 1902. However, it was now noted that the Butte Wholesale Grocery company had taken over his business. It appears this may have only applied to Fried's wholesale business and not his retail shops.

More details were provided in the Butte Miner (MT), May 25, 1919. It was stated that Fried had been a resident of Butte for 25 years and “has been one of the leading business men of the city.” The new headquarters for his business would be at 24 West Granite St., and the business covered Montana, Idaho and Wyoming. It was also said that his firm had long been known as “The House that Quality Built” and it was also said that they might now add, “A Quarter of a Century in Butte.”

An advertisement in the Anaconda Standard (MT), February 7, 1921

Another legal problem. The Anaconda Standard (MT), March 31, 1921, reported on the case of W.E. Tuttle against Julius Fried for alleged false imprisonment. Tuttle was seeking $5,000 in damages and the incident followed from a ride in a hack where a pocketbook had been lost. The Butte Miner (MT), April 1, 1921, noted that the trial was held in this case. Tuttle was a taxi driver and once drove Fried and his wife. During that trip, Mrs. Fried lost her gold mesh purse and Julius accused Tuttle of taking the bag. Tuttle claimed that he had been arrested for the theft, although the police claimed he had only been taken to the police station for questioning.  

This is the first apparent mention that Julius had a wife. It's unknown for how long they had been married. According to his death certificate, his wife was named Wilmeta

The Anaconda Standard (MT), April 2, 1921, reported that Tuttle won the case and had been awarded $2500. However, months later, the Anaconda Standard (MT), January 4, 1922, noted that the court had recently ruled that there would be a new trial in the Tuttle case unless the plaintiff agreed to accept a greatly reduced amount, only $250 with costs. Tuttle agree to accept that amount in settlement. 

Financial difficulties. The Butte Miner (MT), February 1, 1922, reported that a petition had been filed, by an attorney representing three creditors, asking that Julius Fried be declared an involuntary bankrupt. The total outstanding bills were claimed to be $1623.50. The petitioners also claimed that Fried had committed an act of bankruptcy by paying $8 to the Mountain States Telegraph and Telephone Company in December 1921, the “company having no priority of rights over other creditors.” 

Three years ago, Fried had been said to be one of the leading business men of Butte but now he was having serious financial difficulties. What caused these problems? Had his business failed that significantly? The Butte Daily Post (MT), April 10, 1922, then reported the upcoming sale of "all stock and fixtures" of Fried by the bankruptcy trustee. 

At this point, there were no other mentions in the Montana newspapers of Julius Fried. At some point, he left Montana, eventually ending up in Los Angeles, California in 1925, but for about a three year period, it's unknown where he resided. Did he return to Cleveland for a time, to connect with his family? Did he move immediately to California? 

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And now well' briefly look at the background of W. ("Bill") James Hamlin, which was much less covered in the newspapers. The Daily News-Post (CA), June 26, 1953, stated that Hamlin had been born in New Hampshire around 1897. This is the New England connection. Hamlin eventually joined an artillery unit in World War I, and after the war was over, Hamlin chose to resettle in Los Angeles, probably in 1922, where he started selling real estate. 

Based on the evidence, I believe that in 1925, Julius Fried established an orange juice stand at 820 South Broadway in Los Angeles, which he had rented from W. James Hamlin. The earliest newspapers all seem to mention that Hamlin first met Fried in 1925, but later newspapers, mostly from the 1970s on, changed the year of their first meeting to 1926. No reason for this change was ever given. However, Fried's death certificate also seems to indicate Fried started his orange juice business in 1925. 

Why did Fried, an experienced cigar and candy salesman, decide to sell orange juice in Los Angeles? The answer seems to be elusive. He had spent about 25 years selling cigars so this was a big change of business. During the 1920s, there were numerous ads for orange juice stands as well as plenty of ads selling these businesses too. Maybe it seemed like a potentially profitable business to Fried. Or maybe Fried wanted to get involved in a healthier profession. 

At some point, likely in 1925, Hamlin stopped at Fried's stand and tasted some of the fresh orange juice. What happened next is known primarily from a single source, Hamlin. The details of their initial meetings weren't publicly mentioned until 1953, almost 30 years after their first meeting. Unfortunately, Fried died in 1935, so his version was never related in the newspapers. So, can we accept Hamlin's version as completely accurate? 

For now, we will discuss Hamlin's version, although we should retain a skeptical mind as we only have one man's version, and that wasn't provided until almost 30 years later. 

A detailed version was first provided in the Daily News Post (CA), June 25, 1953. The article noted that Hamlin (pictured above) "invented Orange Julius, the nationally famed health drink, because he didn’t like the taste of fresh orange juice.” Back in 1925, Hamlin went to Fried's orange juice, had a free drink, and didn’t like it. He asked Julius for something better but instead, Julius asked Hamlin to develop something better himself. Hamlin claimed that a week later, he returned to Julius with his own mixture to add to the orange juice. This became a hit and the new recipe remained unchanged since then.

I'll note that this article didn't even mention "Fried," the surname of Julius. His first name was mentioned, but he received no credit for the invention of Orange Julius. It was almost like his contributions had been erased.  

The Los Angeles Mirror (CA), November 16, 1953, added the detail that Hamlin had been a graduate chemist, and thus was able to develop his own food additive for the orange juice. Julius was briefly mentioned, but again, his surname wasn't stated. 

More information came in the Covina Argus (CA), December 3, 1953, although once again, the surname of Julius wasn't provided in the article. It was stated that Hamlin and Julius first met in 1926, which differs from prior articles stating it occurred in 1925. Then, it was said that Hamlin spent much time during the Spring experimenting with food additives and orange juice, a longer time period that the week previously mentioned in the June 1953 article. It certainly sounds more credible that it took at least a couple months of experimentation to come up with his food powder mixture rather than simply a week.

Finally, Hamlin ended up with a powder, a blend of seven different pure food powders. Added to the orange juice, it created a delicious, frothy drink. As to the origin of its name, the article claimed that customers would say, “Give me a glass of orange, Julius.” Hamlin then claimed, “That will be the name of the new drink!” Did Hamlin include Fried in his experimentations? Did he provide Fried ongoing samples during that Spring, to receive his input?  

The article also mentioned that Hamlin had $6800 in savings, and pooled his resources with another unnamed man (who will later know as William Larkin), offering to back Julius with the new drink. It was also said that Hamlin would put up a sign on the sidewalk of “a red devil standing in front of a big orange, and there was one word across the front: Julius.”

It would also later be claimed that Fried, when he just operated his orange juice stand, only had average daily sales of $20, but after the addition of Hamlin's food powder mix, average daily sales increased to $100.

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Let's go back in time now, to the latter half of the 1920s, to seek more information about the documented history of the Orange Julius. 

Maybe the first documented reference to Orange Julius was in the San Bernardino Sun (CA), May 15, 1926. There was an advertisement for the Market Spot, and it noted that their sandwich shop sold Orange Julius, a "new drink" which was "wonderfully refreshing." 

In 1926, articles of incorporation, #35447, were filed in Los Angeles for the “General Citrus Stores Company” and the officers were listed as J. Fried, W.A. Larkins and A.H. Anderson. This corporation would eventually start selling Orange Julius franchises. It's very interesting that Hamlin was not listed as a part of this corporation. Why is that the case? Larkins would be involved with the corporation for a number of years, but I couldn't find anything else about A.H. Anderson. This was the only mention I found of his involvement. He may have sold off his interests in the corporation at an early date. 

A trademark for "Julius, a Devilish Good Drink," was later filed and it was mentioned that this mark was first used commercially on September 1, 1926.  

Based on this information, it seems logical that Fried and Hamlin first met in 1925 rather than in 1926. First, it's unknown for how long Fried had been operating his orange juice stand before Hamlin stopped by to taste it. It could have easily been a few months, if not longer. Second, then Hamlin had to spend time experimenting, to create his food powder mixture, which might have taken a few months. 

Next, Hamlin had to convince Fried to sell the new product to his customers, and then Fried had to determine whether his customers would enjoy the new drink or not. How much time did Fried spend in testing the new drink on his customers? Once Fried was convinced the new drink could be successful, Hamlin and Larkins had to convince and negotiate with Fried to partner together to sell the new drink. How long did negotiations last? 

Finally, we see that Orange Julius had already spread outside of Los Angeles by May 1926. Overall, it would have been near impossible to have accomplished all of the above in the first four months of 1926.  It makes far more sense that the entire process started sometime in 1925.

Maybe the first advertisement for Orange Julius was published in the Los Angeles Evening Herald (CA), July 22, 1927. The ad was for the Grand Opening of the Hill Street Terminal Market, and it noted Orange Julius was sold at Stall C-1-B, mentioning it was "A Choice, Refreshing Beverage."

The Arizona Republic (AZA), July 27, 1927, stated that the General Citrus Realty Company of Las Vegas, Nevada, had filed incorporation papers for the Citrus Company Inc. The capital stock was $20,000, divided into shares of $100. The officers were Julius Fried, William A. Larkins, and James Hamlin. This is the first documented mention I found concerning Hamlin and his connection to Orange Julius.

The Arizona Republic (AZ), July 31, 1927, reported that a new citrus drink stand had been constructed, leased from Central Citrus corp. of Los Angeles (which is an error and should have said "General Citrus"). “The stands are used in the handling of a patented citrus health drink known as Orange Julius.” This is the first mention that Orange Julius was a "health drink." More franchises were contemplated for Dallas, Fort Worth, Houston and New Orleans.  

There was a For Sale advertisement in the San Diego Union & Daily Bee (CA), August 26, 1927, which offered an "Orange juice business" and the price included the "Orange Julius Formula." 

The Sacramento Bee (CA), August 27, 1927, mentioned that the city had acquired a franchise from the General Citrus Corp of Los Angeles to distribute “Julius” drinks. 

19 Orange Julius stands! The Fresno Bee (CA), December 5, 1927, noted that an Orange Julius stand was going to open in Fresno. This would be the 19th location of the Orange Julis chain, headquartered in Los Angeles, which had spread across California, Arizona, Texas, Alabama, and Louisiana. The article also quoted W.A. Larkins, “A feature of the company’s business is that each drink is prepared on the counter as ordered and a patented preparation is used,…

The Times-Picayune (LA), December 28, 1927, mentioned that the General Citrus Corp. of Los Angeles was the manufacturer of Orange Julius and other citrus fruit drinks. The New Orleans States (LA), January 1, 1928, noted that the General Citrus Corp. of Los Angeles had leased a building in New Orleans to sell Orange Julius.  

The devil appears! The Fresno Morning Republican (CA), January 14, 1928, reported that Julius Fried would open his new Orange Julius stand at 1055 Fulton Street. The article also stated that, “the holders of little yellow cards with a fiery red devil, will be served with Fresno’s latest drink, ‘Orange Julius.’”

A trademark lawsuit! The Arizona Republic (AZ), May 17, 1928, mentioned that the General Citrus corp had filed with the patent office on October 23, 1926 and which was registered on May 31, 1927. They were now bringing a suit for infringement of a registered trademark against M. & W. Root Beer Stores, Inc. of Florida, and John J. Walters, makers of “Orange Demon.” alleged to be described on the labels as a “devilish good drink.”  

A hearing was held on the matter in September 1928, and the final adjudication was reported in the Arizona Republic (AZ), May 29, 1929. The judge ordered a perpetual injunction against M. & W. Root Beer Stores, Inc. and John J. Walters, from using trade name “Orange Demon” or using any other trademark connected to Orange Julius.

The Atlanta Constitution (GA), June 16, 1928, stated that the General Citrus Realty company of Los Angeles now operated 25 patented Orange Julius establishments under the name of General Citrus Stores company.

The Atlanta Journal (GA), June 17, 1928, reported that W.J. Hamlin was the president and manager of the General Citrus Realty Company of Los Angeles. There were a number of corporate entities connected to Orange Julius, and trying to differentiate between all of them is difficult. 

The Ventura County Star (CA), July 10, 1928, published this Orange Julius ad, which stated, “The most novel drink served at Doty’s new fountain. It’s the same drink you get at the finest fountains in Los Angeles.

The New Orleans States (LA), February 5, 1929, posted an ad for the second location of an Orange Julius stand in New Orleans. It was noted that Orange Julius was, “The Health Drink of the Nation.” It was also said that they used Perfection Brand Louisiana Oranges and that “All fruit juice is extracted before your eyes as it is served.” Finally, it was mentioned that this was the 27th location in the country. 

The Fort Worth Star-Telegram (TX), July 16, 1929, published this ad, offering three free drinks of Orange Julius, which was referred to as “The Health Drink of the Nation.” The ad also stated that “Orange Julius is a health drink of new and unusual health qualities and taste.” None of these ads though provided the specific reasons why Orange Julius was so healthy. 

Orange Julius opened in New York City! The Morning Call (PA), August 29, 1929, reported that the first Orange Julius stand in Manhattan, and probably the East, had now opened on the corner of Broadway and Forty-Sixth St. The Wisconsin State Journal (WI), September 10, 1929, also reported that the new Orange Julius stand in Manhattan, which charged 10 cents for a drink, had attracted 11,425 patrons during its first week. In todays dollars, that would be the equivalent of about $21,000.  

The Los Angeles Times (CA), September 17, 1929, noted some changes in the General Citrus Stores Company as the officers were now Julius Fried, William A. Larkins, and W. James Hamlin. The corporation had a capital of 1000 shares at a $100 par value. In addition, the corporate paperwork for the Orange Julius Realty Co. was filed on September 20, 1929. 

A Orange Julius cocktail? The New York Evening Journal (NY), September 19, 1929, briefly mentioned, “That new Orange Julius drink is getting great play from Times Square topes. Mixed with gin it makes swell Alexanders.”

The San Bernadino County Sun (CA), September 21, 1929, posted the above ad, which stated, “Orange Julius is a new health drink made from pure orange juice, cracked ice and vanilla powder. It is absolutely non-fattening and a delightfully refreshing drink.”

The first unofficial recipe for Orange Julius. The Seattle Post-Intelligencer (WA), November 1, 1929, printed the above recipe, which required orange juice, sugar, milk and egg. However, I'll note that the recipe didn't include cracked ice, and certainly doesn't have all of the ingredients in the official Orange Julius drinks. It's interesting though that the Orange Julius was so popular that people wanted to make it at home.

The Arizona Republic (AZ), June 3, 1930, reported that the General Citrus Realty had changed its name to the Orange Julius Realty company. The directors included Julius Fried, W. James Hamlin and C.N. Magnuson, all of Los Angeles. The Richmond Times-Dispatch (VA), July 23, 1930, then added that the Orange Julius Realty Company, a Nevada corporation, was created “To deal in real estate, merchandise of all kinds and stocks and bonds.” Corporate paperwork for the Orange Julius Franchise Syndicate, Ltd. was filed on October 14, 1930. 

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Then there was a significant rift in the partnership of Fried and Hamlin, one which I haven't seen previously detailed in any of the major articles about the history of Orange Julius. And it's this rift which might have impacted the origin story of Orange Julius, leading to Julius Fried's contributions being largely erased from the story. 

The case of Jacobs v. the State Bar, 219 Cal. 59 (Cal. 1933), which was decided on September 23, 1933 in the Supreme Court of California, involved a review of a recommendation from the State Bar which called for the suspension of the petitioner, Attorney Jacobs, from the practice of law for a period of three years. However, the underlying matter in this case involved Fried, Hamlin and Orange Julius.

Attorney Jacobs had been practicing law in Los Angeles since 1907. Julius Fried and Miss Wilmetta Crawford brought forward a complaint against Jacobs, with "charges of conversion and misappropriation of funds; for knowingly making a false return on a garnishment, and upon two other charges, including one of unethical conduct in revealing to a third party information prejudicial to his client.

As an aside, we know Fried was married in 1921, although the name of his wife was not provided. This legal case seems to indicate that Wilmetta was single, although Fried's death certificate in 1935 listed her as his wife. Was Wilmetta actually his second wife? 

In 1931, it was also noted that Fried and Hamlin were the two-thirds and one-third owners, respectively, of the stock in Orange Julius, Ltd., and its corporate subsidiaries. Fried was also the president while Jacobs had been the attorney for the corporation. If Hamlin had been the primary inventor of Orange Julius, then why did Fried own the majority interest of stock in the corporation? Why wasn't it at least a 50/50 split? Is it possible that Fried played a larger role in the invention of Orange Julius than was later claimed in the 1950s?

Fried was also responsible for collecting the receipts from all of the Orange Julius stands in Los Angeles. In June, 1931, for some reason, Hamlin started to suspect that Fried was engaging in nefarious activities, essentially embezzlement of up to $100,000, equivalent to about $2,000,000 in today's dollars. Quite a huge amount of theft. It doesn't appear that Fried contested this accusation, so it's likely he had actually engaged in some level of embezzlement.

In response to the accusation, Fried resigned as President and also handed over all of his stock to Hamlin, disengaging himself from the corporation. However, Hamlin allowed him to remain as an employee, still desirous of his help. Fried must have been an excellent salesman, or had connections that benefited Hamlin. Fried would continue as an employee for four years, until his death in 1935.

This embezzlement probably, and naturally, angered Hamlin, and might have later colored his version of the origin story of Orange Julius, causing him to significantly reduce any contribution from Fried. However, Fried's nefarious actions continued, which probably added fuel to the fire, giving more incentive to Hamlin to largely omit Fried from the origin of Orange Julius.

Later that year, Fried hired Attorney Jacobs to try to buy back his stock anonymously, not wanting Jacobs to reveal his identity to Hamlin. After some negotiations, Hamlin agreed to a purchase price of $25,000, requiring an initial cash payment of $15,000. Fried had already given Jacobs $500, and then provided him the rest, paying him with a $10,000 bill, four $1,000 bills and five $100 bills.

When's the last time you heard of someone using a $10,000 bill or even a $1,000 bill? On the $10,000 bill, which was first printed in 1918, was Salmon P. Chase, the Secretary of the Treasury under Abraham Lincoln, and a chief justice of the U.S. Supreme Court. The original $1,000 bill featured Alexander Hamilton but was eventually replaced with President Grover Cleveland. Both bills were discontinued in 1969, when the largest denomination bill that was allowed in circulation was a $100 bill.

Soon thereafter making this payment, the Orange Julius corporation served Jacobs with an attachment as part of an action against Fried. Hamlin had previously hired detectives and learned that Fried was the person trying to anonymously purchase the stock. Despite the attachment, Fried somehow convinced Jacobs to return $7500 of his money back to him. 

Jacobs didn't answer the first attachment, so a second attachment or garnishment was then served on him. Jacobs finally turned over $7000 to the sheriff in response to the attachment, and that money was subsequently split between Hamlin and Fried, a settlement of the case Hamlin had filed against Fried. And obviously, Fried couldn't purchase any of the Orange Julius stock. Fried's attempt to anonymously buy the stock, on top of the embezzlement, probably angered Hamlin even more, giving him more incentive to write Fried out of the Orange Julius story.

Attorney Jacobs's three year suspension was upheld by the Supreme Court of California.

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Legal and financial difficulties. The San Antonio Light (TX), October 2, 1931, noted that a suit had been brought by Central Building of San Antonio, Inc. against the Orange Julius Realty Co, et al, for a matter concerning a lease. The plaintiff would ultimately prevail on their suit for rent. Then, the New Orleans Item (LA), March 18, 1932, reported that the contents of an Orange Julius establishment at 736 Canal St. were to be sold at auction in the matter of Porkorny Development Company, Inc. vs Orange Julius Realty Co.

The Los Angeles Examiner (CA), December 21, 1932, reported that involuntary bankruptcy proceedings had been instituted by 3 creditors against the Orange Julius Realty Company (also known as Orange Julius Corporation and Orange Julius Ltd.) due to their outstanding claims totaling $2550. This matter may have been settled as there weren't any follow-up articles in the newspapers. 

Some of these matters were restricted to the individual franchisees, while the Los Angeles proceedings involved the main company.  

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On April 27, 1935, at age 55, Julius Fried passed away, due to “Sclerosis of the coronary arteries of the heart.” His death certificate indicated that he had lived at 1536 Cambria, Los Angeles, and had been married to Wilmeta Fried. His trade was listed his trade as the Owner of a Soft Drink Stand, and he had spent 10 years in this occupation, up until the time of his death. His father's name was listed as unknown and his mother's name was listed as Mina. Although there was a brief mention of his death in the newspapers, there apparently wasn't a more detailed obituary, and there was no mention of his connection to the Orange Julius. In some respects, he died in obscurity. 

The Orange Julius website does pay homage to Julius, although they get his surname incorrect, referring to him as "Freed."

The Daily News Post (CA), June 25, 1953, provided some information on the extent of the Orange Julius franchise and its value. It was noted that, “Nothing but fresh orange juice and pure food powder is used in making the highly-secret concoction.” The company started in 1925 and in three and a half years, their total sales had reached over $2,000,000. Pictured above is the new Orange Julius store in Monrovia, California, the 92nd franchise. The average franchise could be expected to earn about $80,000 a year. Orange Julius even sold well in winter, and Hamlin stated that, “In Boston one winter we did a bigger business than in Los Angeles and on a Jan. 2 New Yorkers bought 6000 Orange Juliuses in a single day.” 

The article also mentioned that the Orange Julius stand in New York City paid $2,000 a month in rent. In addition, the Orange Julius stand at Seventh and Broadway in Los Angeles, which had been the 20th franchise, had just sold its 13th millionth Orange Julius!  

Six months later, the Covina Argus (CA), December 3, 1953, reported that there were now 104 Orange Julius stores, grossing nearly $4,000,000. It was also mentioned that shortly before the market crash of 1929, Hamlin had been offered $2,000,000 for the Orange Julius trademark but he refused. It wasn't mentioned that Julius Fried was actually the majority shareholder of the Orange Julius corporation at that time, so he was probably the one who actually refused the two million offer. Hamlin may have agreed with Fried, but Fried had the control of that decision. And there were older newspaper articles that mentioned Fried was the one to refuse the two million offer. 

In September 1967, Hamlin chose to retire and sold the Orange Julius company to International Industries, Inc., which grew the franchise to about 745 units. In 1985, Orange Julius was then sold to the Custom Creamery Systems, and only two years later, it was sold again, to International Dairy Queen. Orange Julius can still be found in some Dairy Queen locations.

On May 29, 1987, W. James Hamlin passed away at the age of 90. He was survived by a daughter, Judy Roach, and three grandsons. A number of newspapers, all across the country, printed his obituary, noting him as the creator of the Orange Julius. Julius Fried received very little credit, if any, in these obituaries. 

However, what's the truth? Did Julius Fried play a larger role in the creation of the Orange Julius? We will probably never know the truth but we have reason to be skeptical of Hamlin's claims. We only have a single version of the origin story, told by Hamlin, and that version is first mentioned about 30 years after the its invention. There are also discrepancies in the various origin stories, which cast additional skepticism on the tale. And if Hamlin was so instrumental in the creation of Orange Julius, then why was Fried made the President and majority stock holder of the corporation? 

Now I'm thirsty for a cold, frothy Orange Julius.

Wednesday, October 11, 2023

The Origins of Frappes & Milk Shakes

It's often said that New Englanders eat more ice cream than any other region of the country. And New Englanders enjoy ice cream year round, even during the winter. It's also said that in New England, a frappe is made with ice cream while a milk shake is not. Around the rest of the country, it's said that the opposite is true, that milk shakes, not frappes, are the ones made with ice cream.

Numerous articles have mentioned this difference, such as this recent article, yet none of these have been unable to determine why New England is different in this regard. They also often make assertions without providing any historical evidence. I decided to do my own research into this issue and have found some intriguing information which may bring more clarity to these issues. It's a complex matter, and more research is warranted so consider this article to be a work in progress as I continue digging into this matter.  

Let’s begin our historical exploration of frappes and milk shakes with a brief etymological item. The term “frappe” is derived from a French word which roughly translates as “chilled.” This term also derives from an Old French word “fraper” which meant “to hit or strike.”

The first mentions of “frappe” in U.S. newspapers, across the country, were in the 1840s, referencing “champagne frappe.” The earliest mention may have been in the New York Daily Herald (NY), December 8, 1842. In the 1850s, there were also mentions of Champagne frappe in newspapers in Great Britain as well. These mentions would continue to occur for the next hundred+ years, although in more modern times, the nature of the champagne frappe changed. 

During the 18th century, and into the 19th century, The Widow Clicquot by Tilar J. Mazzeo (2008), noted that “In fact, dry—or what the specialists call brut—champagne, like the word champagne itself, did not become popular for another sixty years. It certainly wasn’t served as a predinner aperitif. Instead, people drank champagne as a dessert wine, sometimes so cold that it was almost frozen slush. And it was shockingly sweet.”

So, the Champagne frappe in the U.S. was simply iced Champagne which was almost like a slush. Nothing was generally added to the Champagne. The Evening Star (D.C.), May 26, 1854, noted that Champagne frappe was selling for $3 per bottle. And in the Boston Saturday Evening Gazette, October 30, 1858, it was said, “.., gave me some champagne which was very thick; it was like soft ice. It was champagne frappe,’ said the merchant.” In addition, the Boston Semi-Weekly Advertiser, October 5, 1861, mentioned, “…left our only bottle of champagne to become ‘frappe’ in the snow,..”

Anyone could make champagne frappe, simply by chilling it until it became slushy. It's all important to realize that champagne frappe was known all across the country, so the term "frappe" was not unfamiliar.   

The next mention of a different type of frappe was in 1873, where the “absinthe frappe” made its first appearance. No description was initially given. Then, The Tennessean (TN), June 1, 1885 mentioned, “…absinthe frappe, which is simply frozen absinthe, tipped with brandy.” So, it was similar to a Champagne Frappe, a slushy drink, except they added a second ingredient, a bit of brandy.

This article was reprinted in numerous all across the country, including in California, Florida, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Massachusetts, Michigan, Missouri, Montana, New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, North Dakota, Pennsylvania, and Wisconsin. It’s safe to say many people all across the U.S. heard of the term “frappe.” Yet at this time, it basically referred to only iced drinks.

The Chicago Tribune (IL), December 25, 1887, also mentioned the absinthe frappe, stating, “It is very popular at Christmas. Everything depends upon the manner of mixing it. In this house we make it of white absinthe and imported soda.” So, we see a slightly different recipe here, using soda instead of brandy. And in the Salt Lake Herald (UT), June 3, 1888, it was mentioned that, "Absinthe frappe is getting to be almost as popular as cocktails."

The next mention of a different type of frappe was in the Chicago Tribune (IL), July 19, 1878, which briefly mentioned a “tea frappe,” without providing a description. Later newspaper references though would go into more detail, and ice cream was not included in its creation. The Chicago Tribune, July 27, 1884, provided another brief mention of a tea frappe in an article on food and drinks to take on a picnic. It stated, "Caterers now have tea frappe, iced coffee, and cold milk, which is especially designed for private picnics..." This article was reprinted in numerous newspapers across the country, once again showing that the term "frappe" was known all over.

We then see the appearance of a coffee frappe, also known as a “café frappe,” in 1883. 

Most of the first mentions also don’t provide much description of coffee frappes, but there was a recipe in the Iron County Register (MO), December 11, 1890, which didn’t include any ice cream. The ingredients included coffee, sugar and an egg white, which are frozen to a slush. The article also stated that tea frappe could be made in the same way, but with a mixture of black and green tea. This article was reprinted in a number of other newspapers around the country.

More frappe varieties began to appear. The Fall River Daily Evening News, July 30, 1890, noted that, “Iced cocoa is a new beverage for the summer lunch table. It is made for breakfast, sweetened and frozen, frappe—that is, iced, but not frozen as firm as ice cream.” Fruit-flavored frappes eventually started to appear as well, such as the orange frappe in the Hartford Courant (CT), November 20, 1891

One of the most unusual frappes, a Clam Frappe, was detailed in 1894. Would you drink a Clam Frappe? The New England Farmer, March 3, 1894, in an article on fare for the convalescent, recommended, “The clam frappe or frozen clam juice is the only rule suitable for a very sick person, and requires 20 clams. Wash them thoroughly and put them into a stew pan with one-half cup of cold water, cover closely and steam until the shells open, strain the liquor, cool and freeze to a mush. Serve in glasses.” This article also mentioned a Lemon Frappe, as well as noting that, “The latest fashion in frappe glasses is a glass with standard and a handle..” 

Clam Frappe, or Clam Broth Frappes, would continue to make newspaper appearances also across the country, sometimes referred to as a “delicacy,” and obviously not just for the convalescent. References would continue into the 1950s, including additional recipes, mentions on restaurant menus, and more. However, none of those recipes ever called for ice cream, though there were a few that used whipped cream as a topping.

The Boston Globe, July 8, 1894, noted “Iced foods and frapped drinks may not be the best things for digestion, but on a hot summer day,…are most refreshing.” The article mentioned Champagne, coffee, sherbet & chocolate frappes, stating, “To frappe champagne it must be packed deep and tight in chipped ice for at least 12 hours.”

As for other flavors, the Boston Globe, December 19, 1894, mentioned “peppermint frappe” while the Worcester Daily Spy, May 23, 1895, noted “strawberry frappe.” 

The Springfield Republican, July 19, 1895, referred to a “raspberry frappe.” A recipe for “peach frappe” was provided in the Boston Globe, August 9, 1895. “Line a mold with vanilla ice cream, fill the center with sliced fresh peaches. Spread over them ice cream, cover closely and set in a freezer for half an hour with salt and ice packed well around it. The fruit must be chilled, but not frozen.” However, it should be noted that this was not actually a type of drink like prior frappes. 

A recipe for a “pineapple frappe” and a “café frappe” was published in the Boston Globe, March 14, 1897. The Transcript-Telegram, November 8, 1897, had a recipe for a “fig frappe.” 

The Springfield Daily Republican, April 23, 1898, mentioned a French Strawberry Fruit frappe

And the Boston Globe, August 28, 1898, briefly mentioned a “consommé frappe,” likely a savory version.

The Boston Evening Transcript, January 25, 1899, published an advertisement for Ruinart Champagne, which stated, “The idea prevails, in American, that Champagne cannot be too much iced. Some, even, drink it ‘frappe’—a custom open to criticism in treating the very best wine, but used because it makes a sweet wine palatable.” At this point in time, dry Champagne was becoming more of the norm, and champagne frappe was starting to become less common.

An advertisement in the Springfield Daily Republican, May 9, 1899, referenced a “Crème de Menthe frappe” and a “Mint Julep frappe.”

A fuller description of the “frappe” was provided in the Springfield Daily Republican, June 18, 1899. “A frappe is almost a water ice, save that it is a little heavier, and should resemble, if properly made, moist or wet snow. Frappe is usually served with the meat course, or as a drink for evening affairs or at afternoon teas, and not as a dessert.” No ice cream was used in its creation. It's also interesting that it was often paired with a meat course. 

More description was given in the Boston Sunday Herald, July 22, 1900. The article stated, “Frappe is a term given to water ices which have been only partly frozen; that is, to the consistency of mush, rather than hard enough to mould. It is really an iced drink, therefore the name should not be given to a thick custard cream. These ices are served in glasses, and usually are more or less liquid, as the mixture melts very quickly. They made be of any fruit juice diluted with water and sweetened, or with a mixture of juices, or with tea, coffee or clam juice. They are served at afternoon teas, evening entertainments, or before the game course at dinner. In freezing frappe we use equal parts of ice and salt, and freeze quickly as we wish to have a granular texture, and we turn the crank only until the mixture is partly frozen; or it may be left in the can without stirring and when partly frozen, by scraping the icy portions from the side of the can and a slight mixing, the desired consistency may be obtained.”

So, a frappe is basically a slushy drink. Again, there’s no mention of the addition of ice cream, and the frappe is not seen as a dessert. We also once again see the use of clam juice in some frappes.

And now, let’s take a slight detour and look at the origins of the milk shake.

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It seems that the milk shake was invented in the mid-1880s, thus later than the invention of the frappe, and it's possible that it was first created in Atlanta, Georgia, around 1885. The first newspaper mention I found was in The Sunday News (SC), July 26, 1885, which states, "...the 'Milk Shake' has taken the starch out of all of them. It is the latest invention in the soda waterline and it seems to have caught on immediately. It is composed of a little vanilla syrup, enough Catawba to flavor it and a tumblerful of milk shaken up with ice."

The Richmond Daily Palladium (IN), September 19, 1885, noted that at their current Exposition, one of the refreshment's was the milk shake. The News & Courier (SC), October 8, 1885, had an ad for the Clover Daily Milk Saloon, claiming to have "The Best Milk Shake in the City." The Junction City Sentinel (KS), April 13, 1886, mentioned, “The milk shake is becoming quite a popular drink, but sometimes it is so strong of pure cream that it makes the drinker shake a wee bit next morning.” 

The Savannah Morning News (GA). April 16, 1886, had a drug store ad, noting “Milk Shakes with shaved ice.” And The Union Times (SC), May 14, 1886, stated that at a soda fountain, they had “the most delightful drink” which was “something new, delicate in flavor and delightfully refreshing; and he called it a Milk Shake.” 

As for its invention, the Boston Herald, May 13, 1886, reprinting an article from an Atlanta newspaper, mentioned that, “The newest Atlanta drink is ‘milk shake.’ You get it at the soda fountains. The mixer of cooling beverages pours out a glass of sweet milk, puts in a big spoonful of crushed ice, puts in a mixture of unknown ingredients, draws a bit of any desired syrup, shakes the milk in a tin can like a barkeeper mixes lemonade, sprinkles a little nutmeg on the foaming milk until it looks something like a Tom and Jerry, sets it out for you and you pay five cents. ‘Milk shake’ is an Atlanta drink. Atlanta is nothing if not original.”

At this time, no one seemed to dispute the claim that the milk shake was an Atlanta invention. And the reprinted article showed up in newspapers all across the country, helping the spread the idea of the milk shake. I’ll also note that at this time, the milk shake, like the frappe, had no ice cream in it.

More information on the milk shake was provided in the Fall River Daily Herald, September 28, 1887, reprinting the information from a Cincinnati newspaper. “It is a big glass full of flavored milk—vanilla suits most people better than any other flavor—iced and ‘shaken before taken,’ until there is an inch of froth or foam at the top.” The article continued, “But perhaps the chief charm of a milk shake is it novelty and the watching its manufacture. You can get it at most of the drug stores and at several of the corner stands.”

As for its preparation, “The maker asks what syrup you prefer, draws it in the glass, shaves in some ice, or puts in some powdered ice, fills it nearly full of milk—they generally have a good quality—claps it on the cup shaped top of a little machine behind the counter, which is only an upright rod made to oscillate up and down with lightning like rapidity by means of a crank.” Customers apparently loved the milk shake. “Ninety-nine out of a hundred pay their nickel well satisfied and call again,..”

The milk shake apparently arrived in Massachusetts around 1888. The Pharmaceutical Record: A Semi-Monthly Journal (May 1, 1888), mentioned, “The demand for this summer drink is making its way Eastward…” It continued, “The necessaries are perfectly fresh, rich milk; this is an absolute requisite—especially laying the emphasis on the word FRESH; clean ice, an ice crusher or shaver, pure juice syrups and a good ‘shaker.’” The Pittsfield Sun, May 17, 1888, noted, “With some sparkling pounded ice, some syrup from the fountain and a glass of rich milk agitated together by a whirling crank machine, Druggist Manning makes the new southern drink called ‘Milk Shake.’ It is a delightful beverage, wholesome, satisfying and strictly temperance.”

Then, the Fitchburg Sentinel, May 11, 1889, mentioned, “The ‘milk-shake,’ a Western drink, was introduced last year, and this year, ‘milk punchine’ promises to be a favorite summer drink...” The Boston Globe, August 11, 1889, stated, “Milk Shake. This is composed of milk flavored with syrups to taste.”

The Steward’s Handbook by Jessup Whitehead (Chicago, 1889), described a, “Milk Shake—A good trade is done in this in summer time. A milk shake is ½ pt. milk in a large lemonade-glass, a spoonful sugar, shaved ice, flavor if requested; covered and shaked to froth.”

The Complete Practical Confectioner (Chicago, 1890) discussed Milk Shake Formulas. “Take not quite as much of the syrup as is generally used for soda water; be careful not to get too sweet; shave ice to about half fill the glass; pour in enough milk to fill the glass within about an inch of the top and then shake. One secret in making Milk Shake is, to thoroughly shake the milk."

A Port Wine Milk Shake? The Pharmaceutical Journal Supplement, July 6, 1895, noted, “Milk Shake (New Formula). Fill the tumbler half full of shaved ice, add 1 ½ fluid ounce of milk-shake syrup (equal parts of vanilla and pineapple syrup), fill the glass almost full of milk, and shake well. A pint of port wine added to a gallon of the milk-shake syrup improves the drink.”

However, it appears the milk shake might have lost some of its popularity in Massachusetts in less than ten years. The Recorder (MA), September 18, 1897, stated, “For the milk-shake, which was the fad a few years ago, there is now hardly ever a call, and the shake-machine has disappeared.” Shake-machines used to sell for $35, but the price had dropped drastically to only $5. Why did this happen?

The article alleged, “The tuberculosis scare is doubtless largely accountable for the disappearance of the milk shake. When it first came into vogue it was supposed to be the most healthful of drinks. A glass of good fresh milk with a savoring of some syrup, an egg perhaps, cracked ice and a sprinkling of nutmeg was put into the machine and given a veritable Y.M.C.A. shake.” The article continued, “But some doctors cried against the drinking of ice cold milk when it was heated, and others showed that the milk was not always healthy—sometimes coming from tuberculosis animals, and it was not always pure—sometimes being made of chalk—and the public stopped drinking it.”

There were numerous articles at this time about the potential dangers of milk, including the risk of tuberculosis from contaminated cows. This might have led to a decrease in milk shake consumption across the country. 

Ice cream made an appearance! In MacMahon’s Latest Recipes and American Soda Water Dispensers’ Guide by Albert C. MacMahon (Chicago 1893), there was a recipe for an “Ice Cream Shake. Mixing glass one-third full Shaved Ice. Don’t Care Syrup 1 ½ oz. Sweet Cream 2 oz. Fill with milk. Shake well and strain into fancy glass. Then add heaping teaspoonful of ice cream. Top off with nutmeg and serve with spoon.” 

This was basically the first and only milk shake recipe in the 19th century that called for ice cream. It was more an outlier and the ice cream was basically an accompaniment rather than integrated into the shake. You couldn't drink the ice cream, but rather needed a spoon to eat it.

Now, back to the frappe.

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With the start of the 20th century in Massachusetts, frappes continued to be mentioned, in a variety of flavors, and ice cream was still not an ingredient. The New England Farmer, January 5, 1901, had a recipe for a Pomona Frappe, made with sugar, water, sweet cider, orange juice, and lemon juice. And the New England Farmer, July 13, 1901, noted that, “A frappe is simply a half-frozen ice. Its distinguishing characteristic is mushiness. If liquor is added to a frappe, it becomes punch.

The Fall River Globe, January 27, 1902, provided a recipe for a cider frappe while the Boston Globe, March 7, 1902, mentioned Lemon, Orange and Claret Frappes. This was expanded upon in the Boston Globe, March 9, 1902, which gave recipes. “To make lemon, I simply make a good strong lemonade and add quite a little lemon flavoring. Orange is made by using half oranges and half lemons.” In addition, “Claret—A strong lemonade to which is added more or less claret according to taste.” The Boston Globe, June 15, 1902, referred to a variety of frappe flavors, including pineapple, coffee, mint, ginger, peach & orange, apple, and rhubarb.

A Clam & Chicken Frappe??? The New England Farmer, May 3, 1902, provided a recipe for a Clam & Chicken Frappe, first noting, “This is really an iced soup and of course is to be served on a warm day.” The recipe called for you to steam two quarts of clams and then strain the liquor through a cheese cloth. Then, you added highly seasoned chicken stock to the liquor. Finally, “Cool and freeze to a mush; serve garnished with whipped cream.” Quite a unique frappe!

The Boston Globe, June 17, 1902, provided a definition for a frappe. “A frappe is but a ‘water ice’ partially frozen. It is stirred in freezer till soft and mushy instead of firm and hard. It is really an iced drink, and is served in handled glasses. Frappes are made of any fruit juice diluted with water and sweetened, or with several fruit juices combined, or with tea, coffee, and even clam juice.”

More recipes. The Fall River Daily Herald, August 8, 1902, published a recipe for a Tea Frappe while the Fall River Globe, September 6, 1902, gave one for a Cantaloupe Frappe. The Worcester Daily Spy, January 3, 1904, printed a recipe for a Cranberry Frappe. The Boston Herald, July 7, 1904, had an advertisement for Sanford’s Ginger, with a recipe for a Ginger Frappe, while the Boston Journal, August 11, 1904, gave a recipe for a Black Raspberry Frappe. None of these recipes included ice cream as an ingredient.

When was ice cream first used in creating a frappe? There was a mention in The Boston Journal, April 29, 1904, although the dish sounded more like a sundae than a frappe. It wasn’t really a drink, but more of a dessert. The article stated, “Almost every woman nowadays has her own special frappe combination with which she delights to mystify her guests. One that scored immediate success the other night was made in this way: Into the bottom of the frappe glass went a generous spoonful of preserved strawberries; on top of the berries came the ice cream—vanilla in this case—then a spoonful of whipped cream, and on top of the cream a grating of English walnuts.

However, frappes with ice cream, as a drink, appeared around 1909. The Dispenser Soda Water Guide compiled by The Soda Fountain (2nd edition, NY, 1909), noted, “Frappe is simply another name for a well-shaken ice cream soda. A dispenser in a small drug store can serve a frappe as easily as an ice cream soda. Mix as for an ice cream soda and convert into a frappe by putting a common shaker over the glass and shaking it well. Serve with a straw.” The book had recipes for numerous frappes, most without ice cream, including: Ping Pong, Honey Dew, Maple, Flinch, Orange, American, Pineapple, Coffee, Tea, Admiral, Blood Orange, Buffalo, Café, Chocolate, Crème de Menthe, Funston, Honeycomb, Maple Crusta, Martian, Navy, Opera, Orange, Mint Cordial, Mint, Fruit, Ambrosia, Ginger, and Delmonico.

However, several of those frappe recipes actually included the use of ice cream, including Honey Dew, Maple, Flinch, American, Coffee, Buffalo, Chocolate, and Fruit. The ice cream was integrated into the drink, and wasn't merely an add-on. There were also a couple of recipes for Milk Shakes, Peach and Coffee, but they didn't include ice cream.

The 1915 edition of this book included more Milk shake recipes and information. It stated, “The shakes fall naturally into three general classes, dependent upon their principal basic material. The milk shakes are essentially sweet milk and a flavoring to which can be added an egg (egg milk shake), malted milk (Malted milk shake), or both (egg malted milk shake). The cream shakes are enriched by the use of sweet cream, and the ice cream shakes by the use of ice cream.” The Milk Shake recipes included Coffee, Peach, Findlay’s Fruit Milk Shake, Japanese Milk Shake, Sportsman Shake, and Clam Milk Shake. The Clam Milk Shake was made with 1 ½ oz. clam juice, 2 oz. milk, 5 oz. soda water, and a pinch of salt and a little white pepper. None of the recipes included ice cream.

However, frappes continued to be frequently mentioned without the addition of ice cream. The Berkshire Eagle, November 7, 1910, stated, “A frappe is simply a water ice frozen to the consistency of mush, equal parts of ice and salt being used to make it granular in the process of freezing.” There were also mentions of many more frappe flavors during these ten years, including grapefruit, maple, banana, lime & lemon, muskmelon, lemon & grape juice, cider, marshmallow, loganberry, pistachio, vanilla, double egg, tomato juice, chocolate mint, raspberry nut, nut chocolate, pistachio nut, cocoanut, and raisin & cranberry.

Another book though mentioned frappes made with ice cream. Wm M Bell’s “Pilot”: An Authoritative Book on the Manufacture of Candies and Ice Creams compiled by Wm M. Bell (Chicago 1911), wrote that, “One of the best drinks Tom served with this syrup was a coffee frappe…He placed in the shaking glass one ounce of the coffee syrup and then about two or three dishers full of ice cream (if the cream was hard, he used it in small pieces); he then placed the shaker over the glass and shook it extra hard in order to dissolve the ice cream without using ice in the glass, which would make the frappe too thin. After this operation the shaker, containing the mixture, was run full of carbonated water and poured into a serving glass. The glass was allowed to set for a few seconds and then some more of the liquid was poured into it, which forced the heavy foam on the top of the frappe to come up over the top of the glass and form a sort of cap. A small dab of whipped cream was placed on the top, two straws placed in the drink and a spoon served on the side.”

The book continued, “Tom served all kinds of frappes, among the best being maple, chocolate and coffee, although his coffee was the most popular. The other frappes were made in the same manner as the coffee.” It also said, “To make frappe, use 2 oz. any flavor and about 4 oz. soft ice cream; shake well and finish with fine and coarse stream.

It’s important to note that this book was printed in Chicago, indicating that frappes made with ice cream were available in that city. They were not restricted to New England. Plus, the reach of this book could easily have spread across the country, introducing lots of people to the idea of frappes made with ice cream.

Clam frappes continued to be mentioned. The Boston Sunday Herald, July 5, 1914, provided a recipe for Clam Frappe, noting, “This frappe is delicious as a punch at dinner.” And the Springfield Republican, June 19, 1915, published a restaurant ad for a special Sunday dinner menu that included a “Clam cocktail frappe.”

Handy Household Hints and Recipes compiled by Mattie Lee Wehrley (1916, Louisville, KY), noted, “If originality palls at times, put the frappe glasses to the use they were intended to fill. There is nothing quite so sure to win to the heart of every guest as a frapped itself—which commonly means vanilla ice cream with some sort of sauce. The variety of simple sauces is endless, but chocolate is the general favorite.” This mentions ice cream and frappe but again seems more like a sundae than a drink.

The Boston Herald, August 20, 1916, stated, “A frappe, properly speaking, is a sweetened mixture filled with shaved ice and set in salt and ice a few minutes before being sent to table.” The general definition of a frappe still didn't include the use of ice cream.

And the Boston Globe, December 25, 1917, printed a similar article to a prior Globe article from June 1902. It added, “General Rule for Frappes—One quart water with 2 cups sugar, boiled together from 5 to 20 minutes. Add 2 or 3 pints mashed and sifted juice and pulp of fruit, like strawberries, raspberries, peaches, plums, apricots, cherries, etc. Add more sugar is needed. Some fruits need a little lemon juice.” Still no mention of ice cream. 

What would it take to make ice cream a usual ingredient for frappes? 

Maybe the first store advertisement which offered a frappe made with ice cream! The Star-Gazette (NY), July 9, 1925, published an ad for a drug store, part of the Rexall group, which offered a “Java Frappe. A delicious and nourishing coffee-flavored drink of rich milk and ice cream, topped with spiced whipped cream.” It cost 20 cents.

Five years later, the Boston Globe, June 13, 1930, published a large drug store ad for Liggett’s, “America’s Greatest Drug Stores,” and part of the Rexall group. The ad mentioned, “Frappes. A generous portion of rich Ice Cream is beaten to a soft consistency—any flavor syrup. The Dixie Cup is filled with rich, pure dairy milk, and you have a palate teasing combination, rich in food value.” They cost 15 cents. There was also a mention of, “Milk Shakes. Cool, rich, dairy milk flavored to your taste with coffee, chocolate, vanilla or any other pure fruit syrup. A cool nourishing drink that is incomparable.” They only cost 10 cents.

During the rest of the 1930s, newspapers provided plenty of frappe recipes which still didn’t include ice cream. There were some soda fountain/drug store ads which mentions flavored frappes, but didn’t specify whether they were made with ice cream or not. There were a few mentions though of frappes with ice cream, but most of them mentions were in ads for Liggett’s.

The Evening Gazette, June 17, 1931, had an ad for the Brockelman Bros., a market in Worcester with a soda fountain. The ad mentioned, “Egg Frappe with Ice Cream” costing 10 cents a glass and you had your choice of flavors. The Springfield Republican, April 19, 1936, mentioned that, “In season, almost any fresh fruit is combined with the desired flavor in ice cream, to form a fancy-named sundae, frappe or parfait.”

In 1939, several Boston newspapers had ads for Liggett’s, advertising items such as “Delicious Bostonia Ginger Ale Frappe with ice cream,” and Chocolate and Coffee Frappes with “pure ice cream.”

In 1903, Louis Kroh Liggett, who founded the L.K. Liggett Drug Company, established a retailer’s cooperative, United Drug Stores, which sold items under the Rexall brand. After World War I, the cooperative created a franchise program, where the franchisees sold Rexall products. During the 1930s, the company was based in Boston. For many years, they were the largest player in retail drug stores, and each store likely had a soda fountain.

When we consider how frappes, made with ice cream, became so prominent in New England, a primary reason may have been Liggett's. We see that they were producing frappes with ice cream since at least 1925, and they were the first newspaper ad I found for a soda fountain offering such a frappe. In addition, as there were so many Liggett's stores, the largest number of any retail drug store, then they were able to make frappes familiar to many people in New England. At this time, if a lone soda fountain had offered a frappe with ice cream, it would have been very difficult for them to spread the ida of such a frappe all across New England. For a large chain like Liggett's, it was very easy to spread the concept.

Even though Brigham's Ice Cream was also around during this time period, having been established in 1914, I couldn't find any evidence that they sold frappes during this period. The few ads they placed in the local newspapers noted that they made ice cream and candies, sundaes and sodas. However, none of those ads mentioned frappes, even though we know they eventually started selling them much later in time.

1939 seemed to be a watershed year for frappes made with ice cream as a number of other soda fountains started offering them. Remember that this is 14 years after the first Liggett's ad for ice cream frappes. 

The Boston Globe, July 17, 1939, noted a regional difference concerning frappes. It stated, “If you order a milk shake in Los Angeles you’re served a frappe, and when you ask for a frappe the clerk looks at you as though there are bats in your belfry.” However, it seems very likely that such a California clerk would have at least heard of a frappe before, although he probably would have seen it as a type of water ice, and not something with ice cream.


The Boston Herald, August 18, 1939, mentioned a Moxie Frappe, made with a scoop of coffee ice cream and Moxie, which was “thoroughly blended in the electric mixer.” In the North Adams Transcript, September 5, 1939, there was an ad for McCann Dairy Store, which sold “Ice Cream Frappes” for 10 cents each. The Fitchburg Sentinel, September 20, 1939, printed a grocery ad which sold “Ice Cream Frappe” for 10 cents while the Fitchburg Sentinel, November 7, 1939, noted that the same grocery advertised, “Frappes. All Flavor with 2 Scoops of Ice Cream.”

During the 1940s, plenty of frappe recipes still didn’t include ice cream. For example, the Boston Herald, July 6, 1941, had a recipe for Café Frappe, without any ice cream. Additional recipes were printed, such as cranberry frappe, tomato frappe, and grape juice frappe, none with ice cream. However, there were some advertisements during this period which mentioned frappes, but didn't specify whether they had ice cream or not.

Another regional issue. The Boston Herald, February 26, 1947, published an article on “sectional dialects.” The article stated, “I learned that a good many words are unknown in other parts of the country. Such commonplace words, for example, as ‘frappe,’ ‘cobbler,’ ‘cruller,’ and ‘cranberry.” However, as I've previously shown, the term frappe was actually known across the country, although it probably didn't include ice cream.

As the 1940s ended, and into the 1950s, ice cream frappes became even more common. The Boston Herald, October 29, 1949, advertised a 24 ounce Frappe, made with ice cream, that sold for 25 cents. The Boston Traveler, June 13, 1951, published an ad for Whitings Milk Co., noting that a chocolate frappe could be made with a scoop of ice cream and Whiting’s chocolate beverage.


The Quincy Patriot Ledger, June 19, 1951, had a large ad for the nationally known, locally owned, “Genuine Dairy Queen.” They offered “Thick & Cooling Frappes” for 30 cents each. 

Another Dairy Queen ad. The Quincy Patriot Ledger, May 2, 1952, had an ad that stated, “Step right up and order your favorite flavor extra-thick frappe made with Dairy Queen. Sm-o-o-th, delicious Dairy Queen is a freshly frozen dairy food.” The Journal Tribune, (ME) June 19, 1952, also had a Dairy Queen ad, which stated, “Call it what you want—milk shake, frappe, or velvet—It’s all the same here—A BIG, thick, cooling drink, mixed to your taste—"

The Boston Evening American, July 20, 1954, described frappes. “Our favorite dessert is a frappe;” It continued, “These are not frozen frappes, a kind of ice, but de luxe ice cream and milk drinks, popular in New England, and pronounced ‘frap.’ These are most easily made in an electric blender or liquefier. Combine the ingredients and run about 2 minutes or until smooth and fluffy.” In addition, the article noted, “Almost any kind of fresh ripe or half-thawed frozen fruit can be used for frappes in combination with whole milk and ice cream. If frozen fruit is used, add less sugar.” A few frappe examples included banana, strawberry and peach.

Regional differences once again. An article in the Boston Traveler, December 21, 1954, noted the differences of Boston and Kentucky, including that “...a milk shake in Kentucky is a frappe here.” In Boston, there’s no ice cream in the milk shakes."

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We know that the term "frappe" predated the appearance of "milk shake," but initially, both drinks didn't includes any ice cream. Both terms were also known all around the country. Ice cream wouldn't become an ingredient for some of these drinks, both frappes and milk shakes, until the early 20th century, and even then, it didn't become the norm until years later. In addition, the earliest soda fountain recipe books that mentioned the use of ice cream in frappes and milk shakes were published in New York and Illinois, so it doesn't seem that ice cream frappes actually originated in New England. 

What may have spurred on the idea of frappes with ice cream in the New England could be the Liggett's drug stores, which were the dominant drug store at the time, and which their side fountains sold frappes made with ice cream. This ubiquitousness may have then led to more independent soda fountains to start creating frappes with ice cream as well, eventually leading to the idea that such frappes were only a New England thing. Other regions of the U.S. would generally embrace milk shakes with ice cream, instead of frappes, forgetting that New England didn't originate the idea of frappes and ice cream.