Spiga Re-Opening: Chef Marisa Iocco

Marisa Iocco, Boston's only Italian-born female chef, makes her first professional foray outside of Boston city limits, as the newly named Executive Chef of Spiga Trattoria Italiana in Needham.

As the cutting-edge culinary talent behind Galleria Italiana, La Bettola, South End Galleria, Bricco, Mare and Umbria, respectively, Iocco will undoubtedly raise the bar on Italian cooking in the metrowest area, serving big city food at little town prices (appetizers $9-12, primi $16-18, secondi $19-28, dolci $6-8).

Spiga, a surprisingly authentic Tuscan “villa” improbably located on a side street just off the highway, is rolling out the red carpet for Iocco … adding a landscaped patio, silk curtains, fresh paint, and an 8-seat wine bar. Spiga also boasts all-new management, staff and website. Chef Iocco’s spring 2009 menu debuts on April 15.

The 62-seat trattoria serves lunch and dinner daily. By day, tables are casual and service is quick. A roster of ten salads will be offered. Each is also available as a hot panini. Half a dozen brick oven pizzas and house-made pastas round out the $8-12 menu. By night, white tablecloths come out, and antique sconces reflected in tall mirrors create romantic ambiance.

"Spiga" comes from the Italian word for "wheat sheaf," the kind that was used centuries ago to bake bread. The restaurant’s logo is a wheat sheaf, whose familiar shape is embedded in stained glass on the front door. Proprietor is Carmelo Iriti and General Manager is Narciso Balboni.

Marisa Iocco’s Spring 2009 Debut Menu:
--Bistecca of Swordfish with white beans and tomato in rosemary fish broth
--Double Short Rib Osso Buco with sea salt-oil pinzimonio and Swiss chard
--Eggplant with Pasta "Sails" and fresh mint
--Insalata of Octopus with celery and potato matchsticks, olives and lemons
--Brick Oven 7-Spice Chicken with spicy Meyer lemon ragu
--Hand-Made Spinach-Ricotta Ravioli with Duck Ragu All' Arancia
--Sesame-Crusted Trout with poblano & kiwi in gingered vinegar reduction
--Semolina Cavatelli with broccoli rabe blossoms and Pecorino “sheets”
--Pan-Seared Veal Costata w/ asparagus-parmesan tart and moscato-tarragon demiglace
--Abruzzese Fish & Shellfish Risotto in Brodetto
--Tiramisu Scomposto (deconstructed), Tuscan Melon Soup, and Iocco’s signature Bread Pudding – see attached recipe – plus other desserts will all be made in-house.

Don't Miss: Iocco’s creative and addictive Parmigiano Oreo Cookie: two cheese tuiles with soft, cheesy mashed potato-parsnip filling, just $4.50 per order.

Bio of Executive Chef Marisa Iocco: Born in Orsogna, Italy, Marisa studied art and architecture before setting her sights on a career in food. She studied culinary arts at the renowned Villa Santa Maria before moving to Boston in 1990, where she opened Galleria Italiana with a partner. It became the hottest Italian restaurant Boston had ever known. In 1997, Marisa opened La Bettola, a critically acclaimed incubator for Italian fusion cuisine. It was followed a few years later by the back-to-basics South End Galleria, which shuttered in 2002.

On extended hiatus in Italy, Marisa researched recipes from the top chefs in Rome, Milan and Tuscany. Returning to Boston, she joined forces with a local restaurateur to operate Bricco, which became Boston’s premiere spot for cutting edge Italian cuisine in a vibrant urban setting. Marisa’s next challenge was creating a menu for Boston’s first ristorante showcasing Umbrian cuisine. Umbria opened in 2004 and built momentum rapidly; it was named “Best New Restaurant in Boston” by Boston Magazine that year.

In 2006, Marisa’s previously under-the-radar profile catapulted to national attention for her ambitious, organic seafood menu at Mare, named “Best New Restaurant in America” by Esquire, one of 80 Top Places in the World to eat by Conde Nast Traveler, and lauded in Food & Wine as one of the best new places to dine in Boston.

Marisa takes the reigns at Spiga in Needham, MA in April 2009. Later this year, she hopes to launch a line of all-natural, prepared meals called Food With Love. In her spare time, she travels, writes, plays poker and blackjack, swims, and spends time with her Labrador retriever, Tosca.

MARISA IOCCO’S BREAD PUDDING

2 lbs. crusty, day-old Italian bread
1 quart heavy cream
1 quart whole milk
6 eggs
2 cups sugar
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

--Remove the bread heels and cut bread into small cubes
--In a saucepan, combine cream, milk, sugar and vanilla bean, and bring to a slow boil. Remove the mixture from the heat and allow it to cool and steep for one hour.
--In a bowl, whisk the eggs, then pour in the vanilla-cream mixture and stir. Next, add the bread cubes and allow it to sit just long enough to soak up most of the liquid.
--Pour mixture into a rectagular cake pan at least 4” deep. Cover tightly with foil. Place that pan into a slightly larger pan, then add about two inches of water to the larger pan to create what’s called a “bain marie” or water bath. This provides moisture during baking.
--Bake at 375 degrees for two hours. Remove from oven; let pudding “set” briefly. Cut into squares. Serves 8 generously.

A Spoonful of Ginger

Good food and a good cause. Always an excellent pairing.

I recently attended the 5th Annual “A Spoonful of Ginger” Food Tasting Event to benefit the Joslin Diabetes Center’s Asian American Diabetes Initiative. A number of local chefs participated including Jasper White and Henning Vatborg of Summer Shack, Joanne Chang of Flour Bakery and Myers + Chang, Charles Draghi of Erbaluce, German Lam of Glam Foods, and many more. It was held in the The State Room, atop 60 State Street, with a beautiful view of the city at night.

The mission of the Asian American Diabetes Initiative (AADI) is to raise awareness about diabetes and enhance the quality of life and health outcomes of those living with diabetes in the Asian community through research, education, outreach and improved diabetes treatment. Asian Americans are nearly twice as likely to develop diabetes as the general population – more than 10 percent of all Asian Americans have diabetes and even more remain undiagnosed.

I am sure almost everyone know someone with diabetes. I know and have known numerous people affected, to one degree or another, by diabetes. One of my cats even has diabetes and requires insulin injections twice a day. I have enough trouble injecting my cat that it is almost hard to imagine how people with diabetes must inject themselves or loved ones. Diabetes research is a worthy cause and deserves recognition and support.

Prior to the ribbon cutting, opening the evening, there was a very nice taiko drum set. The two drummers were very talented and it was fascinating to watch their performance and hear the throbbing drums.

Mayor Menino was on hand to help with the ribbon cutting and opening ceremonies. Councilor Sam Yoon was also on hand at the festivities.

Near the end of the evening, all of the chefs got together for pictures. Though it was difficult to get all of the chefs into a single picture. Kudos go out to all of these chefs for the excellent food they prepared. Attendees were able to move from table to table, sampling food and returning for seconds for those dishes that were especially delicious (or even thirds!). Complimentary wine, beer, and soft drinks were also provided.

Despite all of the people at the event, the wait for getting food at any table was very short, if even at all. Everything seemed to run very smoothly, one of the best organized events I have attended in some time. I even had the chance to speak a bit with some of the chefs. Overall, I was very impressed with this event and very much enjoyed the food.

Here are some photos of several of the tables I visited.

This table was shared by Chef German Lam of Glam Foods, LLC and Chef Charles Draghi of the Erbaluce Restaurant. You can read a separate post about Chef Lam tomorrow, so you will be able to learn more about him. I spoke with Chef Draghi and he really intrigued me about his new restaurant. For example, their rack of wild boar is one of their signature dishes and that certainly appeals to me. Plus, he mentioned that his wine list contains many less common Italian wines, something to intrigue any wine lover. I am currently trying to plan a visit to Erbaluce to check it out.

This was the enticing sliced beef at the table of Chef David Wong of Shabu-Zen. This is Asian hot-pot cooking, similar in some ways to fondue.

I am a fan of Joanne Chang's Flour Bakery in the South End. So I expected that whatever they served would be delicious. And I was not wrong as these upside down apple cakes were excellent.

Chef Hing Soo Hoo of Chinatown Cafe had one of the most eye-catching tables with this poultry. The meat was quite flavorful and moist, and seemed very popular.

I can't turn down raw tuna and Chef Ting San of Oishii Boston provided cubes of tuna on a stick with the crunchy rice pearl. I must admit I ate a fair number of these.

There was plenty of other delectable food at this event but I wanted to offer a sampling of some of what I found. And as you savor the photos of the food, please also give some consideration to the Joslin Diabetes Center’s Asian American Diabetes Initiative. Help support this worthy cause.

UNLVino in Las Vegas: April 16-18

You don't need much reason to visit Las Vegas as there is always plenty there to attract visitors. But, for an additional reason, you might wish to attend the 35th annual ULVino wine tasting event from April 16-18.

Southern Wine & Spirits of Nevada, in partnership with the William F. Harrah College of Hotel Administration, is hosting this event. There are three main tasting events, including:

April 16, from 7pm-10pm: Bubble-licious, a tasting of Champagne and Sparking Wines held at the Palms Pool & Bungalows. There will be over 60 wines available for tasting, and the event features their traditional 21 Cork Champagne Salute. Tickets cost $100 per person in advance or $125 at the door.

April 17, from 7pm-10pm: Auss-Some and Then Some, a tasting of wines from Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and South America that will be held at the District at Green Valley Ranch. Tickets cost $75 per person in advance or $100 at the door.

April 18, from 2pm-5:30pm: UNLVino Grand Tasting, a tasting of over 1000 wines that will be held at the Paris Las Vegas Hotel. This event is similar to the Boston Wine Expo but is run better. Tickets cost $100 per person in advance and $125 at the door. There will also be a Grand Tasting Wine & Art Auction at this event.

For More Information, you can call Southern Wine & Spirits of Nevada at (702) 876-4500 or The William F. Harrah College of Hotel Administration Department of Food and Beverage Management at (702) 895-1330.

I will be attending UNLVino, as I did last year. I had an excellent time last year, and posted numerous reviews of the wines that most impressed me. I will be doing the same thing this year, seeking out wines that I think will please me readers, as well as my own palate. If you attend the UNLVino events, then maybe I will see you there.

Koshu: Aged Saké

Most Saké is intended to be drank within a year or so of purchase. But there is a rare percentage of Saké that is intentionally aged, and it is called Koshu. This is not something new but actually has a long tradition, though it waned for some time until recently. It is now becoming more popular but still remains a rarity.

For more information on Koshu, check out the SF Gate which has an informative article, Exploring sake's dark side on the topic, including reviews of five different Koshu.

Stonehedge Wine Tasting

Where in New England can you find a wine cellar with over 100,000 bottles of wine? It might surprise you, but that wine cellar belongs to the Stonehedge Inn & Spa in Tyngsboro. This inn is located on 36 acres of woodlands and can make for a delightful weekend stay, or just an evening for a fine dinner at the Left Bank Restaurant. The proprietors are Dawn and Levent Bozkurt and they have created an appealing haven not far off Route 3.

Stonehedge Cellars hosts monthly wine tasting events where they showcase 25 wines. Usually held Monday nights, the tastings last from 6:30pm - 8:30pm, and light hors d'oeuvres are served. There is a $20.00 charge for the event but if you purchase a case of wine, the money will be applied to the purchase price of your wine. They post a list of all of the wines for the upcoming event so you can see the wines you will get to taste.

I attended their April tasting event and was very pleased that I did so. First, it is an excellent venue for a wine tasting, presenting a very conducive ambiance. The walls have numerous wine-related paintings and you can see some of their wine storage units, including an impressive wine tower, pictured below. It was a spacious room with a number of tables and chairs available where you could take a respite during the event.

There were five different tables displaying wine, each with a different distributor showcasing five wines. All of the wines were for sale, ranging in price from $7.99 to $42.49, and there were discounts for buying by the case. Wines were from regions all over the world, from California to Italy, Washington to New Zealand. Plenty of people showed up for the tasting but you still did not have to wait too long to get wine at each table.

These are the wines that especially appealed to me at this tasting.

2008 3 Brooms Riesling, Marlborough, New Zealand ($15.99): This wine was fermented entirely in stainless steel, sees no oak, and was made in an off-dry style. It has an alcohol content of 10.5%. This wine was a bit tart, with a strong green apple flavor, but also had a tinge of sweetness. It was a very crisp wine with a nice finish. A good wine for this style of Riesling, and very food friendly, especially something spicy.

2007 Notro Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($10.99): This is an unoaked and I enjoyed its nose, lots of lush berry smells. On the palate, it had a lot more power and complexity than I expected. Delicious flavors of ripe plum, blueberry, and black cherry combined with smoke, spice and tobacco. It is bigger than many other Malbecs I have tasted and at this price, it is very good value. I recommend having this wine with a juicy steak.

2007 Palazzo Pinot Grigio, Sicily, Italy ($7.99): This was a very different Pinot Grigio that had a banana smell to it. It also had a bit of a banana taste as well as some other tropical fruits. This is not your bland type of Pinot Grigio. It is crisp and light with a pleasant finish. A good wine, especially for the price.

2007 Terra Antiga Vinho Verde, Portugal ($9.99): This wine is a blend of 70% Trajaduro and 30% Albarino. It has a slight fizz to it with flavors of green apple, banana, and hints of minerality. A light and refreshing wine that will be perfect for the summer.

2006 Quinta dos Grilos Vinho Tinto, Dao, Portugal ($14.49): This was a light wine with a lush taste of blueberry and black cherry. This very smooth had undertones of spice and had a satisfying finish. An excellent easy drinking wine good with food or on its own.

2007 Pra Soave Classico, Veneto, Italy ($17.49): If you have a negative image of Soave, then you need to try this wine and see how Soave can actually be quite good. It is a dry wine with a good minerality, floral notes, and subtle citrus flavors. It is a crisp wine with plenty of character. A nice summer sipper sure to surprise wine lovers.

2007 Rosa del Golfo Rosato del Salento, Puglia, Italy ($13.99): This Rosé is a blend of 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera Lecce. It was one of the first Rosés in Italy to use cold fermentation. This wine has a very light pink color and a compelling nose of fresh strawberries. On the palate, this is a dry wine with delicious red fruit flavors and a rich mouthfeel. This is more of an Old World Rosé and the type of wine I really enjoy. Another great wine for the summer.

2005 Firriato Chiaramonte Nero d’Avola, Sicily, Italy ($18.49): After the Soave and Rosé, this was a radical departure. This dark red wine is big and powerful, with flavors of dark berries, tar, leather and spice. It has moderate tannins and a lengthy finish. This is definitely a food wine and has plenty of complexity, being more than just a powerhouse.

2006 Snoqualmie Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, Washington ($9.99): This is the type of Sauvignon Blanc that I prefer. It lacks the grassy smell and taste of New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs. It has a very light yellow color and a strong citrus aroma. It is a crisp wine with a full mouthfeel and delicious citrus flavors. Another good summer wine, something to sip by the pool.

2005 Villa Mt Eden Grand Reserve Antique Vines Zinfandel, Amador County, California ($14.99): This wine had a light red color and an intriguing nose of cherry and red fruits. It had a nice taste, bright red fruits, vanilla and spice, and a lengthy finish. Yet it was a milder wine, unlike some of the powerful Zins out there.

Overall, this was a very fun event and I found plenty of good wines. I recommend you check out the monthly wine tastings at the Stonehedge Inn & Spa. It is an excellent way to find some new wines and mingle with other wine lovers.

Stonehedge Inn & Spa

160 Pawtucket Boulevard

Tyngsboro, MA

Phone: (978) 874-3622