Mana 1751 "True Vision" Yamahai Tokubetsu Junmai Muroka Genshu: An Umami Bomb!

A nearly 275 year old Sake brewery. A Toji, Sake brewmaster, who has won numerous gold medals. A compelling Sake, rich in umami, and produced in a very traditional manner. 

The Manatsuru Brewery, located in in the Hokuriku region in northwestern-central Japan, was established in 1751. The brewery is situated in the city of Echizen Ōno, which is sometimes known as "little Kyoto." The city is set within a triangular valley, with high mountains, over 3000 feet high, surrounding the valley. Cold and snowy winters help to make this an excellent location for Sake production. Their water for Sake production comes from the Managawa River, considered one of the best water sources for Sake in Japan.

In 1997, Keisuke Izumi became the owner of the brewery, and in 1998, he became its Toji as well. That is unusual as usually a person is one or the other, owner or Toji, but not both. Keisuke had previously studied fermentation and brewing at the Tokyo University of Agriculture and the National Research Institute of Brewing. The first Sake that Keisuke produced at the brewery, a Ginjo, received the highest score at a Sake competition. And since then, he has gone on to win numerous gold medals for his Sakes. The brewery is very small, with only three employees, and one of those employees now includes Rui Izumi, Keisuke's son. The brewery only produces about 4,000 cases of Sake annually. 

The Mana 1751 "True Vision" Yamahai Tokubetsu Junmai Muroka Genshu ($45.99) may be a mouthful to say, but the Sake itself is very naturally produced. As a Junmai, it's a pure rice Sake, made from only four ingredients: rice, water, yeast and koji-kin. And as a Tokubetsu, it's specially brewed in some manner, and one of those reasons is that the rice has been polished down to 60%, which is usually the Ginjo grade. The rice variety is Gohyakumangoku, grown in the brewery's region. The Sake was also produced by the Yamahai method, an older method of production (but riskier process) which does not add commercial lactic acid. In addition, Yamahai Sake is known for producing a more umami-rich Sake. The Sake also uses local yeast. 

In addition, this Sake is a Muroka, meaning it was unfiltered, not undergoing the usual charcoal filtration process of many other Sakes. It is also a Genshu, meaning it was not diluted by water, although most Sake is diluted as such. Despite not being diluted with water, the Sake still only has a 16.5% ABV, and not closer to 20% as many other Genshu Sakes. Plus, this Sake is Gluten Free and Vegan. This is certainly a unique Sake, providing a a more natural taste. 

On the nose, this Sake has intriguing notes of steamed rice and savoriness. And on the palate, it's complex and rich, with prominent umami and a compelling melange of flavors, including touches of mushroom and melon, pepper and banana, as well as a touch of smokiness. With each sip, you seem to find hints of other different flavors, and it's a great Sake to slowly sip, enjoying the evolving tastes. It possesses a lengthy finish and will delight with its fine balance. Pure deliciousness which certainly impressed me. Highly recommended!

This would be an excellent food Sake, especially due to its prominent umami. Pairing this with foods rich in umami would create a killer combo. So, some examples would be mushroom pizza, pasta dishes with tomato sauce and parmesan cheese, and dishes with truffles. 

This Sake is available at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose.  

Izumibashi Kurotonbo Kimoto Junmai Sake: A Cultivation Brewery

One of my favorite styles of Sake are the Kimoto/Yamahai, which can taste earthy with lots of umami and higher acidity. Because of their high level of acidity and umami, they can pair well with many different foods. 

Kimoto was the original method of production, basically where large oar-like poles, referred to as yamaoroshi, were used to stir the moto, the yeast starter. Natural lactic acid in the air would hopefully then help the fermentation process. For hundreds of years, this process was conducted in Sake breweries all across Japan. It wasn't until the beginning of the 20th century, did someone realize that this laborious process was completely unnecessary. 

In 1909, Professor Kinichiro Kagi, at the National Institute for Brewing Studies, realized that the use of the oar-like poles to mix the moto wasn’t necessary. The moto could be left on its own to complete the process, although a couple adjustments were required, including adding some more water and raising the temperature a bit. This was known as Yamahai, which is short hand for "yamaoroshi haishi moto," which roughly translates as "creating the moto without the use of oar-like poles."

Soon after the introduction of the Yamahai style, brewers realized they could simply add lactic acid to the yeast starter, which made the brewing process much shorter, as well as less risky. It is now the most dominant method of Sake production, although some breweries still make Sake using the Kimoto and Yamahai processes. 

The Izumibashi Kurotonbo "Black Dragonfly" Kimoto Junmai, with a 16% ABV, is produced by the Izumibashi Shuzo, which was established in the Kanagawa Prefecture in 1857. The name Izumibashi basically means "Izumi Bridge," referring to the Izumi River (which is used to irrigate their rice), and Hashi, their family name.

Izumibashi is a registered “Cultivation Brewery,” which means it grows, harvests and mills its own rice. This is a rarity as most Sake breweries purchase their Sake rice. Izumibashi promotes the belief that "Sake Starts with Rice." They also use "environmentally-friendly reduced-pesticide cultivation processes." They produce Junmai Sake, and half of their production is also in the Kimoto style. 

The "Black Dragonfly" Sake is made from Yamada Nishiki rice, the "king" of Sake rice, which has been polished down to 65%. Different sources indicate that its Acidity may range from 1.5-1.9, and that is SMV may be +10 or +12 (tending to mean it is likely very dry). This Sake was also aged for two years before its release. I found this to be a compelling, complex and absolutely delicious Sake. There was a dominant umami presence, along with intriguing and silky flavors of chestnuts, melon, and an almost chocolate accent. There were also hints of other, almost elusive flavors, that tantalized and pleased the palate. It possessed a fuller, creamier body (yet with balanced acidity) and a lengthy finish. Superb!   

This Sake would pair well with a wide variety of foods, including beef and other proteins, as well as fried foods. A mushroom pizza, or burger with mushrooms atop it, would also go along very well with this Sake. An Italian dish, with a red sauce and parmigiana cheese, would be a pleasant pairing too. Highly recommended!

Iwate Meijo "Dragon of Oshu" Tokubetsu Junmai Sake: The Turtle's Tail

Yesterday, I wrote about a Greek wine produced from a grape saved from extinction and I'm continuing that extinction theme today, but concerning a type of Sake rice. 

Iwate Meijo Co., Ltd., a Sake brewery in the city of Oshu in the Iwate Prefecture, was established in 1955 through the merger of two other breweries, which had been founded in the 19th century. It's the only Sake brewery still operating in Oshu. Iwate Meijo's objective is “to be a company that is loved by the local people and can contribute to the development of the local community.”  They use locally grown rice, locally sourced water, and create Sake that pairs well with local foods. Oshu is also famous for its Maesawa-gyu, beef which is highly prized, possesses a fine marbled texture and is supposed to taste superb. Thus, some of the Sake Iwate Meijo produces is intended to pair well with this beef.

The Iwate Meijo "Dragon of Oshu" Tokubetsu Junmai Sake ($39.99) was produced from Kame no O rice, a famed rice that nearly passed into extinction until it saw a rebirth in the 1980s. The origin of this rice extends back over 125 years, when, in 1893, Abe Kameji found 3 stalks in a rice field which seemed to be thriving well against the winter chill. This was more than just luck, as Abe was actively seeking such cold-resistant rices. Cultivating those three stalks and engaging in experimentation, over the course of several years, Abe eventually created the Kame no O rice, a pure strain, not a crossbreed. 

Abe initially called it Shinho, but a friend wanted to call it "Kameno-ou," which means “the king of rice that was created by Kameji.” Abe wanted a more humble name, so changed his friend's suggestion to Kame no O, which means "turtle's tail."

After that time, Kame no O was planted widely in the Tohoku and Hokuriku regions until the mid-20th century. The rice's popularity was due to several reasons, including its cold tolerance, early maturity, high yields, and excellent flavor. However, there were disadvantages too, including that the tall, rice grain was frail and susceptible to wind damage. It's a delicate rice strain, and also popular with numerous vineyard pests. By the 1950s, the rice fell out of favor, almost vanishing from the rice fields. 

In the 1980s, Norimichi Kusumi, a Sake brewer from Niigata Prefecture, wanted to resurrect Kame no O, and obtained from seeds from a seed bank. It took Kusumi about three years before he was able to use the rice to produce Sake. This resurrection story was even highlighted in a Japanese manga "Natsuko no Sake." Some refer to Kame no O, as "Phantom Rice" because of its return from near-extinction. 

The Kame no O rice in the Iwate Meijo "Dragon of Oshu" Tokubetsu Junmai Sake is polished to 60% and the Sake has a 15% ABV. The nose is interesting, with notes of steamed rice, nuts, and vanilla, while on the palate, it's dry, rich and full-bodied, with a silky mouthfeel. There are complex flavors of banana and melon, vanilla and mushroom, with lots of umami, a moderate acidity, and a lengthy finish. It is intended to be a "red meat" Sake, to pair well with the region's Maesawa-gyu, as well other meats, including pork and chicken, and I would agree it does well with beef. 

A fascinating Sake, it's illuminating to show how well it can pair with meats, which is a pairing many people who know little about Sake might not imagine. Sake is too often seen as mainly for Sushi, but people need to understand Sake pairs well with all types of cuisine, and far from just Japanese cuisine. Next type you have a steak, choose this type of Sake rather than a red wine for your pairing. 

XOXO Sushi Bar: An Impressive Spot, Newly Opened in Chestnut Hill

Edomae-style sushi. With origins extending back about 200 years, this style has been returning, and there are a few spots in the Boston+ area where it's now available. In short, this style refers to aged sushi, seafood which has been preserved through a variety of methods. Most people think that fresh sushi should be eaten as soon as possible, but aging and preservation can actually enhance the taste of the seafood, especially bringing out more umami notes.  

On March 8, XOXO Sushi Bar opened in Chestnut Hill, on Route 9, and it specializes in Edomae-style sushi. I was recently invited as a media guest to dine there and experience their Japanese cuisine and sushi. I was extremely impressed with their food and their sushi is definitely some of the best I've ever tasted. It's a great addition to Chestnut Hill and I suspect it will become extremely popular.

The owners of XOXO Sushi Bar are Fred Starikov and Steve Whalen, developers and the co-owners of City Realty Group. Their website states: "We develop a wide range of asset classes, including apartments, condominiums, retail, commercial and R&D space." They also own the Silhouette Lounge in Allston, and founded CityKids, whose mission is "to spark intellectual curiosity in the children of Boston and beyond by providing them with unique experiences and valuable educational resources."

They hired Executive Chef Kegan Stritchko (pictured above) to oversee and create the menu at XOXO. Kegan has over ten years of restaurant experience, having worked locally at Uni and Fat Baby Sushi. He has also worked at other Japanese restaurants in Texas, Colorado and Florida. One of maybe his most impactful experiences was when he worked as a sous chef to the famed Makoto Okuwa, who specializes in Edomae-style sushi. At XOXO, Kegan follows many traditional practices of Edomae-style sushi, but also uses modern technology to enhance those traditions.     

The restaurant is casually elegant, modern and cozy, large enough for about 55 guests, including 16 at the sushi bar. We sat in one of the booths, although the seats at the sushi bar might be the best location in the restaurant, allowing you to watch and interact with the chefs preparing the sushi. Chef Kegan was hard at work behind the sushi bar, assisted by three others, Pedro, Dayne and David. It was a Tuesday night, and it was fairly busy, probably partially due to the restaurant only having been open for a couple weeks. From what I could observe, the other guests seemed to be quite happy with their food.

The term "Edomae" is a combination of two words: "Edo," which is an old name for Tokyo, and "Mae," which means “in front." It basically referred to the Tokyo waterfront, where the fisherman brought in their fresh catch. The fishermen and vendors realized they needed a way to make their fish last longer, so it didn't rot before they could sell it. They started preserving the fish in a number of ways, such as curing it in salt or cooking it with soy sauce. Today, with modern refrigeration, such preservation methods may seem unnecessary, but they actually can enhance the taste of Sushi. Thus, Edomae-style sushi has seen a return, with clever chefs using innovative preservation methods to enhance the taste of their fish.

At XOXO, behind the sushi bar is a glass case of hanging fish, which is actually a dry-ager, helping to preserve and enhance the fish. It currently is aging Tyee King Salmon, Ishidai, Sakura Masu and Kanpachi. I asked Chef Kegan about this matter and he explained, “Despite being a relatively new innovation for most countries around the world, dry-aging fish has been part of Japanese tradition for centuries. Primarily, dry-aging techniques prevent fish from going bad as it makes its way from the fishing nets to fish shops and restaurants. Apart from extending the fish’s shelf-life, dry-aging also improves the quality of its flavor and ironically tastes even fresher than fresh fish!" 

"Have you ever had sashimi at a sushi restaurant and thought this had to be the freshest fish you’ve ever tasted? Ironically, good sashimi comes from dry-aged fish and most sushi restaurants still incorporate these techniques in their food preparation. Unlike dry-aged steak, for which dry-aging is used to magnify flavor and texture, the primary objective of dry-aging fish is to enhance their freshness. There are different ways to dry-age fish, some techniques using salt or baking soda to reduce moisture, whilst others involve a controlled, low-humid environment designed for this specific purpose. Yet, in all cases, the fish have to be scaled and thoroughly cleaned before put through the dry-aging process. The precise dry-aging period entirely depends on the size of the fish. Small fish are typically dry-aged for a few days whilst larger cuts – including salmon and bluefin tuna – need around two weeks to dry-age properly. In the end, by ridding the fish of any excess blood, moisture and slime, it loses that unpleasant fishy smell and yields a much cleaner flavor and a firmer texture.” 

I'm sure this eye-catching display sparks questions from the guests dining at the sushi bar, allowing the Chef to explain and educate about the benefits of dry-aging fish. And the excellent taste of the Sushi will showcase those benefits.  

Their Beverage Program, overseen by General Manager Ashif Nirola (who used to work at Douzo), ranges from Cocktails to Sake, Japanese Whiskey to Wine. Their Cocktail list has 9 listed cocktails, all priced at $18 each, including the Lychee Martini, Shochu Expresso, and Matcha Vesper. Many of the cocktails are created with some Japanese ingredients, such as Yuzu, Shochu, Ume, Ki No Tea Gin, and more. 

I ordered the Tokyo Old Fashioned, which is made with Toki Whiskey, Rihei Ginger Shochu, Japanese Bermutto, Sakura Bitters, Cherry & an Orange Slice. It was a hearty drink, with a large ice cube, and a complex and intriguing taste. A very tasty and well-balanced cocktail. Bermutto, used in some of their cocktails, is the first Japanese "Vermouth," a fascinating product, made from Junmai Sake and Kuma Shochu. Four botanicals are added, including Yuzu, Kabosu, Sansho & Yomogi. I first tasted Bermutto back in 2021, and keep a bottle in my home bar. 

The Beer list has 5 choices, priced $9-$18, including Sapporo and Hitachino Nest. Their Japanese Whiskey list has 10 choices, from Suntory Toki to Kaiyo "the Rye" 10 Year old. The Wine list ranges across the world, including California, New Mexico, Australia, Italy, Argentina, France, Austria, and Spain. There's also a Reserved List of higher end wines. Many of the wine selections are from well-known wineries, but there are some lesser known wines scattered amidst the list as well. 

I was particularly interested in their Sake list, which includes 3 Junmai, 2 Ginjo, 8 Daiginjo, 2 Nigori, 2 "Others," and 5 choices on a Reserved List. Prices by the glass range from $13-$20, and bottle (720ml) prices generally range from $64-$225, with a few 300ml and one 500ml bottle for certain selections. There are plenty of good choices on the Sake list, and during the course of our dinner, we ordered glasses of the Wakatake Daiginjo and Dassai 39 Junmai Daiginjo, both excellent choices which pair very well with the restaurant's cuisine. 

The Reserved List has five exquisite choices, although more splurge choices are they priced from $280-$650. For example, the Katoukichibee Shouten, Born Yume Wa Masayume Junmai Daiginjo ($650/720ml bottle) commonly retails for $250-$300, if you can find a bottle. This Sake is "specially limited" and is said to be an exceptional Sake. The Tatenokawa 18 Junmai Daiginjo ($575/720ml) commonly retails for $200-$250, and its rice has been polished down to 18%. It's also considered to be a very impressive Sake. 

The Food Menu has plenty of diverse options, as well as nightly Specials. If you don't want to have to choose individual courses, you could opt for a 16-course Omakase, with dry-aged dish and sashimi. You could also choose the Chef's Choice of 7 pieces ($62) or 11 pieces ($98) of Nigiri Sushi, of 5 types of Sashimi ($10 pieces/$55) or 9 types of Sashimi (18 pieces/$102). Caviar and Truffle are available as supplements. 

The Sushi/Sashimi menu has about 19 options, with Sushi priced per piece and Sashimi priced per 6 pieces. For example, Bluefin Akami is priced at $6 per piece of Nigiri Sushi and $18 for 6 pieces of Sashimi. The Bluefin Chu-toro is $10/$30 and the Bluefin O-toro is $15/$45. A5 Waygu is available as Nigiri for $28 per piece. Other choices include seafood such as Hamachi, Hiramasa, Kinmedai, Madai, Ikura and Snowcrab. The nightly Specials menu adds a number of additional Sushi choices.   

Other menu options include Temaki Handrolls (7 choices, priced $12-$22), such as Miso Scallop and Crab Butter. There are also Hot dishes (12 choices, mostly $12-$29), such as Tempura Rock Shrimp  and Miso Black Cod, and Cold dishes (7 choices, mostly $23-$45), including Tuna & Truffle and Wagyu Tartare. You can also select the Robatayaki, charcoal grilled dishes (9 choices, priced $10-$20), such as Japanese Street Corn, Skirt Steak, and Hokkaido Scallop.

I began my dinner with a cup of Miso Soup ($9), made with green crab dashi, White Rose Farro Miso, and negi (Japanese long green onions). With an alluring aroma, the miso soup was delicious, with a nice depth of flavor and plenty of umami. It definitely ranks with some of the best miso soups I've ever tasted, so much more flavorful than the average miso soups you find at many Asian spots. I often order Miso Soup at a new Japanese restaurant, as I've found that if the soup is impressive, then the rest of the cuisine is likely as impressive. 

This Miso Soup is also more unique as it uses a different type of miso paste. Most miso paste is made with fermented soybeans, but the White Rose Farro Miso is made from Emmer Farro grain, an ancient grain, and the paste is said to possess aromas of whiskey, banana, and butterscotch. Chef Kegan stated, “The farro grain miso is an organic miso made by keep well farms in Pennsylvania (two ex-pastry chefs that now own a farm). They ferment all their own produce turning them into miso and vinegars. I like supporting local farmers and people that push the industry forward with passion. That's why I use there farro grain miso. It's also delicious.” 

From the Hot menu, the Unagi Crispy Rice ($29) consisted of four pieces of BBQ American Eel, atop fried sushi rice, and sprinkled with crispy onions. The eel was tender and flavorful, with a slightly sweet BBQ sauce, and complemented by the crisp, crunchy rectangles of sushi rice and crisp & sweet onions. I'm a big fan of eel, and this was an excellent dish, a nice combination of flavors and textures.

I opted for two types of Robatayaki. The Pork Belly ($15) was made with pork tare and sweet chili miso. I received three large pieces on a wooden skewer, and each piece was a wonderful combination of silky fat and tender meat, with crispy charred edges. It possessed a delicious, lightly sweet and savory sauce. Each bite felt like it melted in my mouth. A great choice!

The Chicken Thighs ($16), with negi and brown sugar soy, were moist, tender and flavorful, again with a delectable sauce and a touch of char. Based on these two options, I suspect the rest of the Robatayaki would be equally as tasty. 

From the Hot menu, I chose the Karaage ($18), which is another iconic dish I often order at a new Japanese restaurant. The Karaage is made from chicken thighs with ponzu (a citrus-based sauce) and togarashi. This dish was a rather large bowl of chicken, with a crisp coating, tender and flavorful meat. It was enhanced with citrus notes and pleasing spices. A great bar snack, and a nice accompaniment to a glass of Sake.

The Live Uni ($28), on the nightly Specials menu, was sourced from Maine and the uni sits atop a yuzu panna cotta. With an appealing plating, the Uni was superb, both creamy and briny, and the panna cotta provided a sweet and citrus aspect to balance the saltiness of the uni. 

Our first plate of Sushi included Chu-Toro ($10), medium fat cut bluefin tuna, and O-toro ($15), the fattest cut bluefin tuna belly. All of their sushi is delivered to your table already seasoned with the amount of soy sauce and wasabi which the Chef believes it should possess. However, if you desire more soy sauce or wasabi, you can request it. I chose to accept the Chef's preparation for all of the sushi I ordered, and didn't feel any of it needed more soy sauce or wasabi. 

Just look at the sushi, and you'll delight in its color and fattiness. And once you take a taste, you'll find it to be buttery smooth, with a mild briny touch, and a hedonistic deliciousness. Such compelling pieces of tuna, and if you've never tasted these cuts before, you really need to change that fact. In some respects, these cuts are like the Wagyu beef of tuna, rich and fatty, melt-in-your mouth pleasure. 

Our next plate of Sushi included 6 different choices, and I'll mention them from left to right. First, there was the Bluefin Akami ($6), a lean cut, which was nice to compare with the prior Chu-Toro and O-Toro. With a deep red color, it was tender and flavorful, but not as silky smooth as the Chu-Toro and O-Toro (although that was expected). It was definitely an excellent piece of Bluefin. I'll also note that all of the Sushi seemed quite fresh, even those which were dry-aged. 

Next up were two pieces of Ora King Tyee Salmon, including the regular version ($6) and the Toro ($8). This is a sustainable Salmon, farmed in New Zealand, and has been a hot item in the seafood industry for at least the last 5-6 years. It has won a number of sustainability awards and its flesh is considered to be exquisite. I've previously tasted this salmon and loved it, finding it rich, tender and flavorful, better than many other salmon. And this Sushi too was excellent, especially the Toro, the salmon belly.   

The fourth piece was on the nightly Specials list, Ishidai ($9), a fish I had never tasted before. This fish is known by a number of other names, such as Knifejaw Snapper, Striped Beakfish, Barred Knifejaw, and Stone Snapper. The Ishidai was sourced from Japan, and it's a small fish with distinctive black and white stripes. It had a bit of a chewier texture, with a mild sweetness and a good amount of fat. A pleasant flavor, which would appeal to many Sushi lovers.

Another fish from the nightly Specials list was the Sakura Masu ($9), listed as "cherry blossom trout," and which was also sourced from Japan. Again, this is another fish I'd never tasted before. Interestingly, although it is seen as a trout in Japan, others see it as a salmon, and it is sometimes called Masu Salmon or Cherry Salmon. Its scales have a pink-cherry color, which is the reason for its "cherry blossom" name. If you look at the sushi, it certainly looks like a piece of Salmon, and is tender and fatty, with a pleasing taste which did remind me in many respects of an excellent piece of salmon. 

Finally, and also from the nightly Specials list, I had the Muki Hotate ($10), Japanese live scallop, which was tender with a mild chewiness, and its flesh was sweet and delicious. I often order Hotate at sushi restaurants, and this was one of the better ones I've ever tasted.  

I had the opportunity to ask Chef Kegan his three favorite types of Nigiri Sushi, and he replied:

Saba (Mackerel), Kinmedai ("Splendid Alfonsino"), and Shima Aji (Striped Jack). All three are available on their regular Sushi menu.

From the Temaki Hand Roll menu, I chose the Unagi Foie ($22), made with BBQ Unagi, Foie Snow, and a Truffle Kabayaki sauce. It was crunchy and meaty, savory and sweet, with hints of truffle, a wonderful melange of flavors and textures. Another hedonistic pleasure. 

From the Cold menu, I also chose the Hamachi & Blood Orange ($24), made with yellowtail sashimi, blood orange zu, supremes & zest, and thai chili. It was a light dish with bright citrus flavors, silky & fatty fish, and a little spicy heat. 

They only have two options on their Dessert menu, including Tropical Yuzu and Nikka Choco (both priced at $18). We opted for the Nikki Choco, which is made with chocolate sauce, almond chocolate sponge, Nikka Coffey malt whisky ice cream, chocolate thai chili ice cream, and cocoa tuile & nips. A decadent and tasty dish, the chocolate was rich and flavorful, enhanced by the ice creams, one which was spicy and the other with the taste of whiskey. Another excellent combination of flavors and textures, this is a dish that would appeal to all chocolate lovers, or anyone who loves an interesting and delcetable dessert.

Overall, I was thoroughly impressed with their cuisine, from their excellent Hot and Cold dishes to their superior Sushi. All of their dishes, from the Miso Soup to the Robatayaki, were elevated above the usual Japanese cuisine you'll find at an average restaurant. Sourcing is very important at XOXO, including some local seafood, such as Uni and Scallops, as well as imports from Japan. And the dry-aging process is fascinating, with such excellent results. 

Service was good, without any significant issues, especially considering they had only been open for a couple of weeks. Although we had a primary server, other servers assisted as well, often delivering some of the dishes to our table. 

Prices are high, but they are comparable to other high-end Japanese sushi restaurants. You also need to consider the excellent quality of their ingredients. You can certainly find lesser quality Sushi at a cheaper price, but if you desire higher quality fish, Sushi which will thrill and excite your palate, you need to pay a higher price. Dining at XOXO Sushi Bar is well worth the price so grab a seat at the Sushi bar and indulge.  

XOXO Sushi Bar earns a hearty recommendation and I will definitely be returning, to try more of the menu, as well as re-order some of my favorites. 

Imada Shuzo Fukucho "Forgotten Fortune" Junmai

While enjoying a wonderful dinner at Yakitori Totto, at Assembly Row in Somerville, we ordered a bottle of Sake, the Imada Shuzo Fukucho "Forgotten Fortune" Junmai ($75/restaurant, $35-$40/retail) to pair with our appetizers and grilled skewers. And the Sake was so delicious, we eventually ordered a second bottle as well. 

The Imada Shuzo, which was founded in 1868, is located in the port town of Akitsu in the Hiroshima Prefecture. Akitsu once had seven Sake breweries, but now there are currently only about three. The current brewery owner and Toji, master brewer, is Miho Imada, whose great-grandfather started the brewery. Interestingly, Miura Sanzaburo, a legend in the Sake brewing industry in that region, provided the brand name, Fukucho ("Forever fortune") for the brewery. 

It is rare for a brewery owner to also be the toji, and it is even rarer for a woman to not only own a Sake brewery, but also to act as its toji. Her brewery is small, producing only a relatively tiny amount each year. They specialize in Ginjo Sake, in small batches, and very traditionally and naturally made. It was also unique to see her photo on the back label of the Sake bottle. I don't recall ever having seen any other brewery owner or toji on such a label. 

The Imada Shuzo Fukucho "Forgotten Fortune" Junmai is produced from Hattanso sake rice, an heirloom breed which was nearly extinct before Miho Imada chose to help resurrect it. About a hundred or so years ago, Hattanso was popular, especially as it absorbed water well. However, its long stalks made it more vulnerable to adverse weather and other issues and its grains broke too often during the brewing process. Thus, it fell out of favor, although its seeds were fortunately preserved by an Agricultural Research Station. 

Sometime during the early 2000s, the seed bank had a surplus of Hattanso seeds, and asked the Sake brewers in Hiroshima if anyone wanted to try to grow the rice for their Sake. Imada was willing, and spent over ten years dedicated to growing and working with this heirloom rice. Currently, they are the only sake brewery that uses this rice. It's not the easiest rice to grow, but Imada has embraced its unique character, producing excellent Sake from it. 

The rice in this "Forgotten Fortune" Junmai has been polished down to 70%, which is less than some other Junmai Sake as Imada believes this is best for this Sake, providing more complexity and a better expression of the flavor of the rice. It also has a 15% ABV, a SMV +3, and the label states it is best served slightly chilled. It is said to pair very well with oysters, as the Hiroshima Prefecture has the most amount of oyster beds in Japan. In addition, it is supposed to pair very well with wild green vegetables. 

I found this Sake to be complex and pure delicious, with tasty flavors of melon and pear, a dominant earthiness and good acidity. Silky smooth, with a fuller body, and a lengthy, satisfying finish. It paired very well with a variety of foods, from raw octopus to grilled chicken skin. I've had other amazing Sake from this brewery and this one is just as amazing. Highly recommended!

Heiwa Shuzou "Kid" Junmai Ginjo Hiyaoroshi: A Sake For The Autumn

With the importance of seasonal cuisine and drink in Japan, it's natural that seasonal Sake would be produced as well. Hiyaoroshi is a type of Sake made specifically for the Autumn and its history extends back to the Edo period. September 9 is the official first date for the release of this style of Sake. Hiyaoroshi is pasteurized once, in the winter or spring, and then aged over the summer before being released in the autumn, without a second pasteurization. 

Although it's now winter, I opened a bottle of the Heiwa Shuzou "Kid" Junmai Ginjo Hiyaoroshi ($39), to accompany a dinner of salmon. Heiwa Shuzo, founded in 1928, is located in a valley outside Kainan City in Wakayama Prefecture. The brewery is situated on a spot where a temple once stood for over 500 years. The brewery was renamed after the end of World War 2, and "Heiwa" basically translates as “peace” or “harmony.” Heiwa was awarded Brewer of the Year at the International Wine Challenge (IWC) in 2019 and 2020, a back-to-back win that had never been accomplished by any other Sake brewery. 

Their "Kid" brand is relatively new, a bit over ten years old, and the name is an abbreviation of two words, "kishu" and "fudo." Kishu is the former name of the Wakayama Prefecture, and Fudo means the "environment." It is also said that the name refers to the sake's "playful, bright, energetic profile." It was intended to appeal to the younger generations, those who previously saw Sake as only a drink for older people. 

The Heiwa Shuzou "Kid" Junmai Ginjo Hiyaoroshi is made with Gohyakumangoku rice that was polished down to 55%. They use a natural water source, the Koyasan Nansui, which is said to be "soft and luscious." It also has a 15% ABV, a Sake Meter Value (SMV) of +1.5, and an Acidity of 1.7 (making it more acidic than average). The label states that it can be served chilled, warmed or at room temperature. 

It was a delicious Sake, with a soft and rich mouth feel, but crisp acidity balancing the richness. It was fruity, with tastes of banana, citrus, apple, and hints of raspberry, and also had some steamed rice flavors. It was rich in umami, especially on the finish, and made for an excellent pairing with the fatty salmon. Definitely a heartier Sake for the cooler Autumn weather, although it would work well in the Winter as well. Next time, maybe I'll warm it up, especially this winter. 

WeSake: Easy Drinking Canned Sake

White Claw Hard Seltzer is hugely popular and other canned hard seltzers sell very well too. Canned RTD (ready-to-drink) Cocktails are also a big hit. And with the summer coming in a couple months, these canned drinks will be even more popular. They are easy to transport, to carry on a mountain hike or bring to the beach, and there's no worries of broken glass. 

So why not consider Canned Sake as an alternative option?  

I received media samples of WeSake, a premium Canned Sake, and it offers much that those other canned drinks do not. 

WeSake was established by beverage executive Pablo Rivera, who previously worked at ZX Ventures/AB InBev. “Fun and lively nights out with sake are not so easy to come by in the American market, and I kept wondering why something so delicious and drinkable wasn’t more widely available,” said Rivera. “We believe this fresh, exciting and versatile drink deserves to be part of any social occasion. WESAKE was born out of a love for a truly impressive beverage that I hope inspires more to explore the category and the unique space that sake fills.” 

Rivera entered into a partnership with a 280-year-old Japanese brewery in Kobe, although their website and press materials doesn't indicate the identity of this brewery. However, it seems probable that the brewery is Hakutsuru, which was founded in 1743 and is located in Kobe. The rice, the type which also isn't identified, is sourced from local farmers in Tagocho, Japan.

WeSake is a Junmai Ginjo, a premium Sake, which is made from only four ingredients: rice, water, yeast and koji. As a Ginjo, at least 40% of the rice is polished away. This is a quality Sake, and it's also non-GMO, gluten free and vegan friendly. With only a 13% ABV, it might have been diluted more than usual, as most Sake is around 15% or ABV. Their website states: "It is brewed Junmai Ginjo style because it’s elegant enough for seasoned sake drinkers, but also bright, fun and easy for all those who are starting to drink it."

Best served chilled, this Sake is dry, crisp and easy-drinking, with pleasant tastes of melon, peach and steamed rice. It goes down smoothly, is refreshing, and very food friendly. This would be excellent on a sunny summer day, or paired with something from the grill or fried seafood. Its lighter than hard seltzers, especially as it's not carbonated, and it probably pairs better with food as well. 

WeSake is spreading across the country, and generally is available for about $18.99 for a four pack. Why not bring some canned Sake to your next summer gathering, and introduce your family and friends to this intriguing and delicious beverage. Anyone can bring some White Claw, but very few will bring some Sake. 

WeSake: A Canned Junmai Ginjo

Sake in a can? Japanese Sake, especially in Japan, comes in a variety of different packagings, from cans to tetra-paks. It's also not just inexpensive Sake that comes in these alternative packagings. Premium Sake, the top 25% of all Sake, can be found in cans and tetra-paks. Some of those alternative packagings are available in the U.S. and I've previously enjoyed a number of them. 

One of the newest canned Sakes to hit the U.S. market is the WeSake Junmai Ginjo, and I recently received a media sample.  WeSake was established by Pablo Rivera, who formerly worked at ZX Ventures/AB InBev. He thought Sake wasn't as popular in the U.S. as it should be and wanted to change its perception, to make it more accessible and alluring to U.S. consumers. Certainly a worthy sentiment, and one I have long supported. 

The rice for this Sake is grown in Tagocho, by local farmers, although the type of rice is not identified. Then, the Sake is said to be brewed by a "280 year old brewery in Kobe, Japan." That brewery is not specifically identified although it's likely Hakutsuru Brewery, which was founded in 1743, and will thus be 280 years old next year. 

As a Junmai Ginjo, this is a premium Sake, produced with only four ingredients: rice, water, yeast and koji-kin. In addition, the rice was polished down to at least 60%. It's also vegan friendly, sulfite free, gluten free, and non-GMO. Their website states: "We brew Junmai Ginjo style sake because it’s elegant enough for seasoned sake drinkers, but also bright, fun and easy for all those who are starting to drink it." 

The Sake is packaged in a 200ml can, has a 13% ABV, and costs about $18.99 for a four-pack. The traditional single serving size of Sake is 180ml, known as 1 go. The usual Sake bottle consists of 720ml, or 4 go, and is known as a yongobin. In comparison, the normal wine bottle has 750ml. So, the WeSake can has a little more than a traditional single serving of Sake. It is also lower in alcohol than most other Sake, which generally runs from 15%-17% ABV. 

How does it taste? It is quite tasty, being smooth and medium-bodied, with pleasant flavors of melon, steamed rice, and tropical fruit. I enjoyed it chilled with a dinner of Sockeye Salmon, and it went well with the fish. This is a Sake that would work well with many different foods, even burgers and pizza. It has more body than many other Ginjo Sakes, and I think it would taste well warmed too. I''ll have to experiment with that another time. There's enough Sake for a full glass and you might want a can for each person. 

The WeSake Junmai Ginjo is a premium Sake in a can, and is delicious on its own or paired with food. As it's in a can, it can travel well, whether to the beach, the mountains, on a boat, or anywhere else. Give it a try and experience the marvels of Sake!

So why aren't you drinking more Sake?

Pairing Feta & Sake: Greece Meets Japan

Greek Feta Cheese paired with Japanese Sake?

It's certainly not a common pairing, and generally isn't suggested in the articles which discuss drink pairings with Feta. Sake and cheese is also not a traditional pairing in Japanese cuisine. However, experimenting with food and drink pairings is fun, and can sometimes lead to some intriguing pairings that you might not otherwise consider.

In my prior article, The Science of Sake & Food Pairings, I discussed some of the scientific reasons why Sake is such a versatile drink that pairs well with all types of foods. It has more than twenty amino acids, more than any other alcohol, and those amino acids help in various ways with food pairings. Sake also possesses an umami element, much more than wine, and that umami element also assists with food pairings. 

I also wrote another, more specific, article, Pairing Cheese & Sake. In that article, I stated, "Both Sake and cheese contain lactic acid, which means they can possess complementary flavors and aromas. As I mentioned before, Sake is usually rich in umami and that works well with other umami foods, including cheeses." I also suggested a number of Sake and cheese pairings. So, the question isn't really whether Sake pairs with Feta Cheese or not, but rather which Sake best pairs with it. 

Feta, a term that means "slice," likely originated during the 17th century, though its ancestry may extend back many more centuries. I purchased three different Fetas from the Greek International Food Market, as they have an excellent selection of Feta, including some barrel aged varieties. The three Fetas included the Dodoni (a sheep's milk, from the southern region of Greece), Arahova Barrel (a sheep's milk, barrel aged), and the Olympus (also sheep's milk). 

All three were delicious, and though they might all look similar, they each have their own unique flavor profile, although they also share some similarities, including a briny aspect. The Olympus was the creamiest of the three, and the Arahova had the most complex melange of flavors. Feta is a versatile cheese, which can be easily added to a myriad of recipes, or simply enjoyed atop a salad. 

The Koshi No Kanbai Sai "Blue River" Junmai Ginjo is a typical Niigata Sake, with a crisp, clean and dry profile, as well as an Acidity of 1.4. It was silky smooth, with more subtle aromatics and flavors, and was a sheer pleasure to drink. Definitely the type of Sake I enjoy. With the Feta Cheeses, it was a good pairing, able to handle the strong flavor of the Feta, as well as its briny character. However, it wasn't a compelling pairing, one which would especially excite your palate. It was just a solid pairing, one which would bring pleasure to many people.

On the other hand, the Fukucho "Seaside" Junmai Sparkling Sake, which I've previously reviewed, was a far more compelling pairing, a match that elevated the experience. First, this Sake has lots of acidity, which is an excellent match for the creamy feta. Second, the Sparkling nature of the Sake also helped to cleanse your plate between tastes of the Feta. Third, the fruitiness of the Sake complemented the more herbal and earthy tastes of the Feta. Fourth, the briny aspect of the Feta was accented by the briny element of the Sake. This Sake would work very well with any Feta heavy dish. And this Sake also earns my hearty recommendation.

I only paired two Sakes with the Feta so there are plenty of additional Sake styles which you can experiment with as a pairing. The Fukucho was certainly an excellent pairing, indicating Sake can pair very well with Feta. Now, it's just a matter of finding all of the Sake types which work well with Feta. 

Feta & Sake: A fine marriage of Greece and Japan.

Yuki Otoko "Yeti" Honjozo Sake: Like Melting Snow

What is that hairy creature on the label? 

It is the Yuki Otoko, the Snow Yeti. The illustration is from a 19th century book, the Hokuetsu Seppu, Snow Stories of North Etsu Province, written by Suzuki Bokushi. This book was an extensive work on the life in the snowy southern region of the Niigata region and became extremely popular. Bokushi was a textile merchant and author, and also is an ancestor of the Aoki Shuzo, the Sake brewery which now produces this Sake. The Yuki Otoko is alleged to inhabit the snowy mountains of Niigata, and sometimes helps travelers who are lost or in need of assistance in the mountains. 

The Aoki Shuzo was founded in 1717, making it over 300 years old, and it is located in Shiozawa, an area well known for both its quality rice and well water.  They are a very traditional brewery, and only produce Sake during the cold months rather than year round like some other breweries. The Niigata region is famous for producing a certain style of Sake, known as Tanrei-Karakuchi, which is light, crisp and dry. However, Aoki Shuzo aims for a slightly different style, what they call Tanrei-Umakuchi, which is crisp and dry but with more umami. 

It's also interesting to note that Aoki Shuzo donates part of their proceeds to support rescue efforts for hikers lost in the snowy mountains. emulating the Snow Yeti who was also said to assist hikers.

The Yuki Otoko "Yeti" Honjozo (about $28) is a premium Sake, made from only five ingredients: rice, water, yeast, koji-kin, and a little distilled alcohol. It was made with Gohyakumangoku and Koishibuki rice, polished down to 65%, a bit more than what is required to be a Honjozo. The Sake also has a 15.5% ABV, a SMV +8 (meaning its generally dry), and an Acidity of 1.2. It is said to be "Dry, light and clean like melting snow."It also can be served chilled, warmed, or at room temperature. 

I drank this chilled, and found it to be a clean and refreshing Sake, with a savory kick of umami. Subtle melon and citrus flavors with the umami taking center stage. This would be excellent for seafood, mushrooms, or truffle dishes. The umami of the Sake makes it even more food friendly. Or you can just enjoy this Sake on its own, slowly sipped and enjoyed. Highly recommended. 

Ryujin "Dragon God" Junmai Daiginjo Namazume Sake: A 400+ Year Old Brewery

A 400+ year old Sake brewery named after a mythological Dragon God, the Lord of the Sea. 

The Ryujin ("Dragon God") Shuzo, founded in 1597, is located in the Gunma Prefecture, which is interesting as it is a landlocked, and mountainous, region so not where you would expect to see the Lord of the Sea. It is a small brewery, with only six members in its the brewing team, and it produces handcrafted Sake, as well as craft beer. Their underground water is very soft, so requires different production methods than the usual hard water used to make Sake. 

The Ryujin Junmai Daiginjo Namazume Sake ($43/720ml) is produced from Yamadanishiki rice, often considered the King of Sake Rice, which has been polished down to 50%. With a 15.5% ABV, it also has a Sake Meter Value (SMV) of +1, and an Acidity of 1.4. This Sake is a Namazume, which means it only undergoes a single pasteurization rather than the usual two. It is pasteurized before it undergoes a year of aging, skipping the pasteurization that commonly occurs just prior to bottling. 

This is a compelling and delicious Sake, with an alluring aroma of white flowers and citrus. On the palate, it is bright and fresh, with a hint of sweetness and flavors of citrus and pineapple. It is silky and light, complex and intriguing. This Sake can easily be enjoyed on its own, although it will also pair well with a variety of foods, from seafood to chicken dishes. I'd like to pair this with Fish Tacos too. Locally, this Sake can be found at Malden Center Fine Wines. Kanpai!

Fukucho "Seaside" Junmai Sparkling Sake: A Female Toji & Brewery Owner

Prior to the Meiji Era (1868-1912), in the Hiroshima Prefecture, Sake breweries were finding some difficulties in the brewing process.  During the Meiji Era, Sanzaburo Miura was said to be the first person to realize the problem, that the water in Hiroshima was very soft, low in mineral content. The brewers had been using techniques perfected for harder water, such as that in the region of Nada. Sanzaburo journeyed to Kyoto, which also had soft water, and learned new techniques, more appropriate for their region. He shared that knowledge with all the brewers of Hiroshima, and their Sake acquired a much higher quality. 

The Imada Shuzo, which was founded in 1868, in located in Akitsu in the Hiroshima Prefecture. Akitsu once had seven Sake breweries, but now there are currently only about three. The current brewery owner and Toji, master brewer, is Miho Imada, whose great-grandfather started the brewery.  Interestingly, Sanzaburo provided the brand name, Fukucho ("Forever fortune") for the brewery. It is rare for a woman to not only own a Sake brewery, but also act as its Toji. Her brewery is small, producing only a relatively tiny amount each year. They specialize in Ginjo Sake, in small batches, and very traditionally and naturally made. 

One of their products is the Fukucho "Seaside" Junmai Sparkling Sake ($33/500 ml), made with Nakate Shinsenbon rice that was polished down to 70%. This Sake underwent a secondary fermentation in the bottle, with no dosage, and they added a little white koji, to give it citrus flavors. This is because the seaside area of the Seto Interisland Sea is famous for lemons and limes so the Toji wanted the Sake to reflect those flavors. 

I found contradictory information concerning its Sake Mere Value (SMV) and Acidity. The SMV could be either -3 or -40, and the Acidity may be 3.0 or 6.0. There is agreement that it only as a 13% ABV. In general, the SMV is more indicative of a dry Sake, and the Acidity is high, at least two to three times the average amount. The Sake has a slightly cloudy color, although it is not a Nigori Sake.

This Sparkling Sake has a fruity nose, especially citrus notes, with a touch of the scent of fresh bread. On the palate, it is lightly bubbly and very dry, with a complex melange of flavors, especially lemon, lime, green apple, melon, and pear, a pleasing and well balanced fruit salad, accented by a mild rice taste. There is also a subtle briny aspect, reminding me of the sea. It's very crisp and fresh, a fine accompaniment to seafood, from oysters to lobster. This Sparkling Sake can be used merely to celebrate, to raise a toast, but it is also a fine pairing for a variety of cuisines, especially with its very high acidity. One of the better Sparkling Sakes I've tasted.

Takahiro Nagayama "Noble Arrow" Namazake Tokubetsu Junmai: All About Terroir

Wine lovers, pay attention to a Sake with similarities to Chablis from Burgundy. 

The Nagayama Honke Brewery, which was founded in 1888, is located in the Yamaguchi Prefecture. The current President and Toji is Takashiro Nagayama but before starting as the Toji, he spent time working with the famed Philippe Pacalet in Burgundy. Takashiro found a special passion for Chablis, terroir and the effects of limestone. When he returned to the Sake brewery, Takashiro desired to produce Sake that was reflective of terroir, and which benefited from limestone. 

Takashiro only uses rice grown on their estate, in limestone rich soils, although most other breweries purchase their rice from elsewhere. In addition, the region around the brewery is located above the largest limestone cave in Japan, and Takashiro uses the water that flows over this limestone, benefiting from its high calcium levels. Terroir in Sake (which is worthy of its own article) is a relatively new concept, and Takashiro is certainly one of the leaders in this field. 

The Takahiro Nagayama "Noble Arrow" Nama Tokubetsu Junmai Sake ($40/720ml) was produced from a blend of Yamada Nishiki rice, often considered to be the King of Sake Sake, and Hattan Nishiki, and it was polished to 60%. That is a Ginjo level polishing rate, which is likely why this Sake is labeled as Tokubetsu. The Sake also has a Sake Meter Value (SMV) of +2 , an Acidity of 1.6 (which is higher than usual), and a 15.5% ABV.  

This is a fascinating and complex Sake, aromatic and rich in flavor, with creamy notes and an underlying minerality. Its higher acidity is clear, providing a delightful crispness to its taste. There are flavors of melon and green apple, with a mild minty note on the finish. It does remind me of some mineral-driven French white wines, though you won't forget it is Sake. As such, it is delightful on its own, but would pair well with foods that those French whites do. This would be great with oysters and other raw seafood. 

This Sake should convince you of the possibilities of Terroir in Sake. Locally, this Sake can be found at Malden Center Fine Wines and I highly recommend you check it out.

Nanbu Bijin "Southern Beauty" Shinpaku Junmai Daiginjo Sake: White Heart

The label for this Sake is reminiscent of a grain of rice, and the large white area in the middle could be the the Shinpaku, the "white heart." The shinpaku refers to the pocket of starch in the middle of the rice kernel, where all the sugars are concentrated. By polishing the rice, you remove the outer layers and get a greater proportion of the starches within. A Daiginjo Sake, which polishes away at last 50% of the rice, embraces the "white heart."

Nanbubijin, Inc., located in the southern region of the Iwate Prefecture in a region called Nanbu, started brewing Sake in 1915 when the Kuji family, which worked in the soy sauce brewing business, decided to expand its business, which was named the Kuji Shuzo. Around 1951, the company decided to start producing "clean and beautiful Sake," renaming itself Nanbu Bijin. Nanbu represents their region while Bijin means "beautiful woman." Together, Nanbu Bijin basically translates as "Southern Beauty." 

The Nanbu Bijin "Southern Beauty" Shinpaku Junmai Daiginjo ($35/720ml) was produced from Yamada Nishiki rice, often considered to be the King of Sake Sake and possesses a large shinpaku, and it was polished to 50%, the minimum amount for a Daiginjo Sake. The Sake also has a Sake Meter Value (SMV) of +4 (meaning it may have a touch of sweetness), an Acidity of 1.6 (which is higher than usual), and a 16% ABV. Interestingly, this Sake even has a Kosher Certification. 

This is an elegant, aromatic and complex Sake, with a compelling melange of flavors, including melon, strawberry, peach, and lychee, with some underlying minerality and whispers of intriguing spices. It is medium-bodied, luscious on the palate, and with a lingering finish. This is a hint of sweetness in this well balanced Sake, though overall it presents as dry. And at only $35 for a Daiginjo, it is an excellent value as well, as many Daiginjo Sakes sell for $50+. 

This is another Sake which works beautifully on its own, but would also pair well with a variety of foods. This would work well with a variety of seafood dishes though with its high acidity, it might also be intriguing with a burger or pizza. Locally, this Sake can be found at Malden Center Fine Wines. 

Tensei "Endless Summer" Tokubetsu Honjozo Sake: Briny Melons

As summer is now over, and cooler weather is starting to come, wouldn't you like to reclaim a touch of summer? First, cue up Point Break and all of its surfing action, and then pour yourself a glass of Tensei "Endless Summer" Tokubetsu Honjozo Sake. 

The Tensei Sake brewery, founded in 1872, is located in the Kanagawa Prefecture, and draws inspiration from its gorgeous coast and the surfer culture of the Shonan region. Shonan is sometimes said to be the home of Japanese surfing, and is packed with surf shops, surf clubs, and similar businesses. The term "tensei" translates as "heavenly blue sky." The grounds of the brewery also has a  beer brewery, Japanese restaurant, Italian restaurant/pizzeria, bakery, and an art gallery,

The Tensei "Endless Summer" Tokubetsu Honjozo Sake ($35/720ml) was produced from Gohyakumangoku rice, polished to 60%. Legally, a Honjozo must be polished down to at least 70%, and the greater polishing here would take it to Ginjo level, which is likely why it is labeled as Tokubetsu, which means there's something special about the production. Honjozo also means that some distilled alcohol has been added to the Sake to bring out certain aromas and flavors. It is then diluted down to the usual alcohol level so it only has a 15% ABV. Information on its Sake Meter Value (SMV) and acidity isn't readily available. 

This past Friday, I was relaxing outside at a friend's home, while we grilled shrimp, steak tips, and sausage. It was a warm and sunny day, and I opened a bottle of the "Endless Summer." It was rich and full-bodied, said to be from the high mineral content in the water used in brewing, and possessed delicious flavors of melon and pear, with an underlying salinity to it. It was essentially a briny melon, mouth-watering and compelling, and a perfect summer beverage. And its rich, bull-bodied nature also make it a nice pairing for the grilled foods. 

I loved this Sake on its own, but it would also pair well with a variety of foods. I especially want to pair this with local oysters. During the autumn and winter, it would still be a good choice, especially because of its richness, and that briny melon aspect would recall the summer. Locally, this Sake can be found at Malden Center Fine Wines.