I have little familiarity with Haitian cuisine so was intrigued when I noticed a Haitian restaurant, Infused Kreyol, would soon open in Malden. The spot once belonged, for quite a long time, to the Sun Guang Bakery, a great Chinese bakery, and was later taken over, for a much shorter time, by Sweet Kingdom, an Asian dessert spot. Infused Kreyol opened last month and I wanted to provide my initial impressions after having dined there three times for lunch. As the restaurant has only recently opened, this isn't a formal review, giving them time to work out the final kinks.
Infused Kreyol was founded by Dominique and Daniella Zephyr-Gutierrez, twins who grew up in Malden. Their father was Haitian and their mother was Haitian-Dominican, so though the restaurant's cuisine is primarily Haitian, there are also nods to Dominican and other Caribbean cuisines. The restaurant seats about 40 people and there is a very casual ambiance, enhanced by the artwork on the walls. In fact, as you enter the restaurant, you'll walk down their "Art Walk", checking out some of the artwork.
Behind the counter, there is more artwork, including a painting of their mother, and a painting of both twins. There is also a display of some of the wines they serve. And of interest, there is a heated glass case which stores freshly-made Paté, which you can buy to go (and which I highly recommend you do). I'll talk more about those Paté later in this post.
A painting on another wall, which is a significant symbol for the restaurant, depicts the Le Marron Inconnu de Saint-Domingue, "The Unknown Slave," a bronze statue of a runaway slave that commemorates the abolishment of slavery. The statue, created by Haitian sculptor Albert Mangonès in 1967, is displayed in Port-au-Prince, Haiti. The painting also adorns the cover of the restaurant's menus.
The Menu has plenty of choices and is broken down into Small Bites (6 choices, $2.50-$11), Sandwiches/Sliders (2 choices, $8-$10), Lunch Bowls ($10), Infused Plates (10 choices, $15-$18) Salads (2 choices, $7), Sides (7 choices, $3-$7), and Dessert (4 choices, $4-$6). The Infused Plates come with your choice of Rice (White rice with SOS Pwa, Black rice, or Spanish rice) and Plantains (sweet or green). Nearly every dish, except the salads and a veggie Paté, has meat or seafood so vegetarians don't have many choices, though I suspect the restaurant might try to cater to your desires.
Above, you'll see Plantain Chips, which I was offered on two of my three visits. They are a complimentary snack provided once you order your food. They are thin, crunchy, and tasty though might benefit from a bit of salt.
One of the Small Bites is the Paté ($2.50), a flaky pastry filled with shredded chicken, ground beef, cod fish or veggie. I tasted three of the four, excluding the veggie, and loved them! They are made fresh each day, and on two of my visits, the cod fish paté weren't available as they hadn't been made yet. The pastry is light, flaky and buttery, exactly what you want it to be, and the fillings have intense and tasty flavors, spiced well. And at this price, they are an excellent value. If nothing else, you should stop by Infused Kreyol and pick up a bunch of these paté to enjoy at home.
The Cod Fish Pate.
Another Small Bite was the Bacon Wrapped Sweet Plantains ($10), which sounds great and tastes as you imagined. The large pieces of fried plantains had a nice caramelized exterior, and were soft and almost mushy inside, but with a sufficient firmness. The salty bacon enhanced the sweetness of the plantains. An excellent appetizer and nearly addictive.
The Jerk Beef Sliders ($10), topped with a pineapple-mango chutney, are noted as Spicy though you can order just a regular burger instead. I opted for the Jerk and they were delicious, spicy without being overly hot. Each burger was relatively large and thick for a slider, and they were juicy and meaty, topped by melted cheese. The chutney added some sweetness to balance the jerk spices, as well as a bit of texture. The soft, fresh roll worked well for the burger too. Another winner of a dish.
For a Side, I wanted to try their Corn Bread, but it wasn't available on any of my visits.
For an Infused Plate, I chose the Griot ($15), pork shoulder marinated and fried in savory sauce with peppers and onions. I chose Black Rice and Sweet Plantains to accompany the griot.
The pieces of pork shoulder were compelling, with a great crunchy, fried coating and moist, flavorful pork inside. Even the few fatty pieces were delicious, being silky smooth inside the crunchy coating. An absolutely delicious dish and you can order the Griot as a Small Bite as well, without the rice and plantains.
The Fried Sweet Plantains were delicious, just as tasty as the ones that come wrapped in bacon.
The Black Rice had an interesting flavor, with peas and spices.
The Kreyol Pasta ($18), an ample portion, is topped by a spicy and rich cream sauce and comes with either Chicken & Shrimp or Andouille Sausage and Shrimp. I opted for the sausage and shrimp. Though the pasta was cooked well, and the cream sauce was tasty, with a nice blend of spices, the sausage was a bit tough and there were only two shrimp.
The Lunch Bowl ($10) comes with your choice of pulled pork, stewed beef, or shredded chicken, and rice, plantains, peppers and onions. I chose the pulled pork with Spanish rice, a good sized dish for the price. The pulled pork was moist, tender and had a nice depth of flavor. If you want a value lunch choice, this is a great option.
For Dessert, I wanted to get the Haitian Beyens, banana fritters, but they are only made for dinner. I decided to try Gigi's Cream Corn Souffle ($6), which is infused with Haitian cremas. The three souffles reminded me of a corn pudding we often make for the holidays. It was like a bread pudding texture, with sweet corn and crema, and some deeper flavors as well. Savory and sweet, a very good option.
Overall, I was impressed with the cuisine at Infused Kreyol. There is a compelling depth of flavor to most of their dishes, and I like the freshness of each dish. As the dishes are home-made, you might have to wait a little bit longer for your food to arrive than some fast casual spot, but it is well worth the wait. Service was excellent on two of my visits, but on one of my visits, service was rather slow, and the restaurant wasn't busy. Prices are reasonable for what you get, and some of the dishes are even excellent values, like the Paté. Infused Kreyol is a welcome addition to the area and I look forward to checking out more of their menu. I highly recommend you visit Infused Kreyol too.
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Friday, June 29, 2018
Thursday, June 28, 2018
Thursday Sips & Nibbles
I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) On Wednesday, July 11th at 5:30 p.m., SRV’s co-executive chefs of Kevin O’Donnell and Michael Lombardi invite guests to join them at SRV for Select Oyster Bar's Chef Michael Serpa's Cicchetti Takeover. Guests will be treated to Serpa's spin on cicchetti (or Italian small bites), which will be served up complimentary in SRV’s sleek bar and bacaro area of the restaurant until supplies last.
Reservations are not required. Featured cicchetti will not be available in main dining room. For more information, please contact (617) 536-9500.
2) This Independence Day, on Wednesday, July 4, from 11am-7pm, City Tap House in Fort Point will break out the sand, leis and umbrella straws for a Lolo Luau day party, also known as a Hawaiian “crazy feast,” which will transform the beer paradise into an Island oasis featuring food and drink specials, games, beach-themed swag and live music provided by the popular cover band, The Royal Furs.
Staying true to the brand’s commitment to all things beer, there will be a tap takeover featuring bucket specials from Kona Brewing, Downeast, & Ballast Point. Non-beer drinkers are in for a treat as well, with festive cocktails including the Hawaiian Punch with Privateer rum, Malibu, Lazzaroni, lemongrass syrup, pineapple juice & cranberry juice ($13); the Jungle Bird made with Privateer Silver, Campari, lime juice, pineapple, simple syrup and topped with Privateer Amber ($13) and of course, summertime’s favorite Frosé ($13).
The kitchen will also be dishing out some vibrant tastes of the tropics with luau-inspired bites including a Tropical Fruit Tray ($12); a Poke Bowl with fresh ahi tuna ($23); Coconut Shrimp Tacos ($18); and a Pulled Pork Sandwich with french fries ($17).
The Royal Furs live music from 12PM-4PM
COST: Admission is complimentary. Food & beverage specials available at a la carte pricing.
3) Guests are invited to revel in a refreshing, patio dining experience with friends and family this Independence Day at Restaurant Dante. Chef Dante de Magistris welcomes Boston and beyond to celebrate their July 4th on the Charles River with an exclusive four-course prix fixe menu complimented by an unforgettable prosecco sfizi hour. The celebration begins at 6:30 PM and is $75 per guest – be sure to call ahead to make reservations and bring cash on-hand for their full bar.
The July 4th Prix Fixe menu is as follows:
PROSECCO SFIZI HOUR
Grilled oysters oreganata, Dante’s porcini arancini with truffle honey, BBQ chicken spiedini.
ANTIPASTO
Astice bruschetta of tomato and butter poached lobster, charred pea salad.
PASTA
Conchiglie pasta shells, taleggio fonduta, pickled ramps, asparagus, blistered tomatoes, lemon crumbs.
CARNE
Costaleta di manzo braised and smoked beef short rib, Italian inspired BBQ sauce, chickpea purée, celery salad.
DOLCI
Dessert table filled with all Dante’s famous Italian pastries, biscotti and more.
For reservations, please call 617-497-4200
**********************************************************
1) On Wednesday, July 11th at 5:30 p.m., SRV’s co-executive chefs of Kevin O’Donnell and Michael Lombardi invite guests to join them at SRV for Select Oyster Bar's Chef Michael Serpa's Cicchetti Takeover. Guests will be treated to Serpa's spin on cicchetti (or Italian small bites), which will be served up complimentary in SRV’s sleek bar and bacaro area of the restaurant until supplies last.
Reservations are not required. Featured cicchetti will not be available in main dining room. For more information, please contact (617) 536-9500.
2) This Independence Day, on Wednesday, July 4, from 11am-7pm, City Tap House in Fort Point will break out the sand, leis and umbrella straws for a Lolo Luau day party, also known as a Hawaiian “crazy feast,” which will transform the beer paradise into an Island oasis featuring food and drink specials, games, beach-themed swag and live music provided by the popular cover band, The Royal Furs.
Staying true to the brand’s commitment to all things beer, there will be a tap takeover featuring bucket specials from Kona Brewing, Downeast, & Ballast Point. Non-beer drinkers are in for a treat as well, with festive cocktails including the Hawaiian Punch with Privateer rum, Malibu, Lazzaroni, lemongrass syrup, pineapple juice & cranberry juice ($13); the Jungle Bird made with Privateer Silver, Campari, lime juice, pineapple, simple syrup and topped with Privateer Amber ($13) and of course, summertime’s favorite Frosé ($13).
The kitchen will also be dishing out some vibrant tastes of the tropics with luau-inspired bites including a Tropical Fruit Tray ($12); a Poke Bowl with fresh ahi tuna ($23); Coconut Shrimp Tacos ($18); and a Pulled Pork Sandwich with french fries ($17).
The Royal Furs live music from 12PM-4PM
COST: Admission is complimentary. Food & beverage specials available at a la carte pricing.
3) Guests are invited to revel in a refreshing, patio dining experience with friends and family this Independence Day at Restaurant Dante. Chef Dante de Magistris welcomes Boston and beyond to celebrate their July 4th on the Charles River with an exclusive four-course prix fixe menu complimented by an unforgettable prosecco sfizi hour. The celebration begins at 6:30 PM and is $75 per guest – be sure to call ahead to make reservations and bring cash on-hand for their full bar.
The July 4th Prix Fixe menu is as follows:
PROSECCO SFIZI HOUR
Grilled oysters oreganata, Dante’s porcini arancini with truffle honey, BBQ chicken spiedini.
ANTIPASTO
Astice bruschetta of tomato and butter poached lobster, charred pea salad.
PASTA
Conchiglie pasta shells, taleggio fonduta, pickled ramps, asparagus, blistered tomatoes, lemon crumbs.
CARNE
Costaleta di manzo braised and smoked beef short rib, Italian inspired BBQ sauce, chickpea purée, celery salad.
DOLCI
Dessert table filled with all Dante’s famous Italian pastries, biscotti and more.
For reservations, please call 617-497-4200
Wednesday, June 27, 2018
Scheid Vineyards: From Tax Shelter To Passion
The origins of Scheid Vineyards, in Monterey County, extend back to 1972 and at that time, Al Scheid probably never imagined what his business would become. Starting as a tax shelter, the business would eventually evolve into a passion for the Scheid family, producing some delicious and interesting wines.
Initially, the business, created as a tax shelter, was called the Monterey Farming Corporation and they purchased land to plant vineyards, selling the grapes to various producers. This continued for about fifteen years, when Al brought his eldest son, Scott, on board and then, in 1988, they hired Kurt Gollnick, viticulturist, as General Manager of Vineyard Operations. They initiated some improvements to their vineyards and in the early 1990s, Al brought his daughter, Heidi, into the business.
At some point, it seems a passion for winemaking took hold. The Scheids bought out all their business partners, redeveloped their vineyards, bought additional vineyards, and began their own label. Currently, they own eleven estate vineyards, located along a 70-mile span of the Salinas Valley, that grow 39 varietals and 20 clones of Pinot Noir. They operate two wineries, including a large one which produces custom-made wines for other companies, the greatest part of their business. Their smaller winery is used to produce wines for their own label. Scheid Vineyards are also committed to sustainability on several levels, including environmentally sound practices, social equity, and economic viability. All of their vineyards are certified by the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance.
Scheid Vineyards has been increasing its emphasis on selling their own wine, and in 2017, their case sales increased about 5% to $12.7 Million, compared to $12.1 Million in 2016. I received some media samples of three of their wines, all low production, and really enjoyed their taste and diversity. All three are great choices for the summer, especially paired with food.
The 2016 Scheid Vineyards Albarino ($22) is made from 100% Albarino, from the Arroyo Seco appellation of Monterey, of which they only grow about a half-acre. Only 220 cases of this wine is produced, and the wine is fermented and aged only in stainless steel. With a 13.7% ABV, this wine has a fine golden color, a nose of bright citrus, and an interesting taste of apple, lemon, and grapefruit with a backbone of minerality. It was dry and crisp, with a pleasing, long finish. There is a freshness to this wine, and it would be enjoyable on its own or paired with seafood, from oysters to lobster.
The 2016 Scheid Vineyards Pinot Noir Rosé ($19) is made from 100% Pinot Noir that was sourced from the Mesa del Rio vineyard. The wine was macerated on the skins for 12 hours and later aged in stainless steel for about eight months, with only 140 cases produced. With a 13.5% ABV, this wine had an alluring aroma of fresh strawberries, and on the palate was dry and crips, with juicy red fruit flavors as well as a touch of cranberry. Refreshing and delicious, this Rosé was complex and interesting, and another wine which is enjoyable on its own, though it would also pair well with a variety of foods, from seafood to burgers.
The 2015 Scheid Vineyards Pinot Noir ($36) is made from 100% Pinot Noir, a blend of grapes from two estate vineyards, 71% Vineto and 29% Riverview. The wine is aged for about 9 months in neutral French oak and only 106 cases are produced. With a 14.1% ABV, the wine had an appealing nose of red and black fruits with a hint of spice. On the palate, the wine was light bodied and silky, with a complex melange of flavors, from cherry to blackberry, cranberry to plum, with subtle spice notes, a touch of vanilla, and a hint of smoke, especially on the lengthy finish. An elegant Pinot, this is a wine to slowly savor over the course of an evening. Highly recommended.
Initially, the business, created as a tax shelter, was called the Monterey Farming Corporation and they purchased land to plant vineyards, selling the grapes to various producers. This continued for about fifteen years, when Al brought his eldest son, Scott, on board and then, in 1988, they hired Kurt Gollnick, viticulturist, as General Manager of Vineyard Operations. They initiated some improvements to their vineyards and in the early 1990s, Al brought his daughter, Heidi, into the business.
At some point, it seems a passion for winemaking took hold. The Scheids bought out all their business partners, redeveloped their vineyards, bought additional vineyards, and began their own label. Currently, they own eleven estate vineyards, located along a 70-mile span of the Salinas Valley, that grow 39 varietals and 20 clones of Pinot Noir. They operate two wineries, including a large one which produces custom-made wines for other companies, the greatest part of their business. Their smaller winery is used to produce wines for their own label. Scheid Vineyards are also committed to sustainability on several levels, including environmentally sound practices, social equity, and economic viability. All of their vineyards are certified by the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance.
Scheid Vineyards has been increasing its emphasis on selling their own wine, and in 2017, their case sales increased about 5% to $12.7 Million, compared to $12.1 Million in 2016. I received some media samples of three of their wines, all low production, and really enjoyed their taste and diversity. All three are great choices for the summer, especially paired with food.
The 2016 Scheid Vineyards Albarino ($22) is made from 100% Albarino, from the Arroyo Seco appellation of Monterey, of which they only grow about a half-acre. Only 220 cases of this wine is produced, and the wine is fermented and aged only in stainless steel. With a 13.7% ABV, this wine has a fine golden color, a nose of bright citrus, and an interesting taste of apple, lemon, and grapefruit with a backbone of minerality. It was dry and crisp, with a pleasing, long finish. There is a freshness to this wine, and it would be enjoyable on its own or paired with seafood, from oysters to lobster.
The 2016 Scheid Vineyards Pinot Noir Rosé ($19) is made from 100% Pinot Noir that was sourced from the Mesa del Rio vineyard. The wine was macerated on the skins for 12 hours and later aged in stainless steel for about eight months, with only 140 cases produced. With a 13.5% ABV, this wine had an alluring aroma of fresh strawberries, and on the palate was dry and crips, with juicy red fruit flavors as well as a touch of cranberry. Refreshing and delicious, this Rosé was complex and interesting, and another wine which is enjoyable on its own, though it would also pair well with a variety of foods, from seafood to burgers.
The 2015 Scheid Vineyards Pinot Noir ($36) is made from 100% Pinot Noir, a blend of grapes from two estate vineyards, 71% Vineto and 29% Riverview. The wine is aged for about 9 months in neutral French oak and only 106 cases are produced. With a 14.1% ABV, the wine had an appealing nose of red and black fruits with a hint of spice. On the palate, the wine was light bodied and silky, with a complex melange of flavors, from cherry to blackberry, cranberry to plum, with subtle spice notes, a touch of vanilla, and a hint of smoke, especially on the lengthy finish. An elegant Pinot, this is a wine to slowly savor over the course of an evening. Highly recommended.
Monday, June 25, 2018
The Sound Of A Guitar: Tio Pepe Fino En Rama Sherry
It bears regular repeating, and I can't say it enough, so Stop Neglecting Sherry! Having written over 40 articles on Sherry, it's clear that I'm a passionate advocate for this unique, fortified wine from Spain. It remains a niche wine, under appreciated by far too many wine lovers, and I want that to change. Today, I'm here with a review of a recently released Sherry, one representative of a growing and exciting movement in the Sherry industry, the En Rama style.
When Fino and Manzanilla Sherries age within the barrel, a layer of flor, a film of yeast, develops atop the liquid. Generally, the flor prevents oxidation and also contributes to the Sherry's aromas. For some time, Sherries have commonly undergone heavy filtration to eliminate flor residue and other impurities, as well to make a more stable and lighter wine. However, such filtration also can strip out some of the flavor, texture and color of Sherry. There is now a growing movement to produce some Fino and Manzanilla without heavy filtration, and these type of Sherries have now become known as En Rama.
En Rama Sherry is either unfiltered or usually lightly filtered, allowing the Sherry to taste more like it does directly out of the barrel. It tends to be more intense and complex, with richer colors and aromas. En Rama Sherry is often released in the spring, as that is the best time for the flor, when it is most active and thick over the wine in the barrel. This category is less than 20 years old and it is only within the last few years has it become more easily available locally, in both restaurants and wine shops.
Back in 2010, González Byass, released their first En Rama, using their famed Tio Pepe Fino. Coincidentally, I visited the González Byass Bodega in 2010, though there wasn't any discussion of En Rama at that time. You can check out my prior article for more background on this compelling bodega, which produces a full line of compelling Sherries. Each year, González Byass releases a new Tio Pepe Fino En Rama and 2018 is their ninth release. I recently received a media sample of this new En Rama and was thoroughly pleased with its taste and complexity.
The Fino En Rama is a blend, bottled in April, of 62 carefully selected barrels from the La Constancia and Rebollo cellars. The wine in these barrels, which spent 4-5 years in the solera, is made from Palomino grapes from the famed Macharnudo vineyards. The winemaker, Antonio Flores, has nicknamed this release Armonía Perfecta ("perfect harmony."), also noting that 2018 is "the very best interpretation of vine and cellar, chalk dust and long hours spent selecting this very unique, fresh wine: harmonious, like the sound of a guitar in the stillness of the afternoon."
For the first time, as well as the standard 750ml and 375ml bottles, the En Rama will also be available in a limited quantity of magnums. Many recommend that you consume En Rama within several months of purchase, with the assumption that it won't age well. However, that train of thought may be changing, and some now believe it can age, though obviously aged En Rama will taste very differently over time. With the release of an En Rama in a magnum, it may be support for aging this En Rama, especially as this vintage was so special.
With a 15% ABV, the Tio Pepe Fino En Rama ($27/750ml) has a bright golden color and is aromatic, with intriguing notes of toast and the briny nature of the sea. On the palate, it is fresh and dry, with a complex and intense melange of citrus, almonds, and the taste of the ocean. The finish has a tinge of bitterness, which doesn't detract from the taste, and lingers on your palate for quite a time. It is not as light and subtle as more heavily filtered Fino Sherries. I'm a big fan of this style and love the intense expressiveness of this Tio Pepe.
I'd recommend serving this Sherry slightly chilled and it would pair well with plenty of dishes, from fried foods to seafood, charcuterie to even pork. I enjoyed this Sherry with a simple dish of Fish Sticks, and it worked great. Share a glass of Sherry with friends and family. And I highly recommend you check out the Tio Pepe Fino En Rama.
When Fino and Manzanilla Sherries age within the barrel, a layer of flor, a film of yeast, develops atop the liquid. Generally, the flor prevents oxidation and also contributes to the Sherry's aromas. For some time, Sherries have commonly undergone heavy filtration to eliminate flor residue and other impurities, as well to make a more stable and lighter wine. However, such filtration also can strip out some of the flavor, texture and color of Sherry. There is now a growing movement to produce some Fino and Manzanilla without heavy filtration, and these type of Sherries have now become known as En Rama.
En Rama Sherry is either unfiltered or usually lightly filtered, allowing the Sherry to taste more like it does directly out of the barrel. It tends to be more intense and complex, with richer colors and aromas. En Rama Sherry is often released in the spring, as that is the best time for the flor, when it is most active and thick over the wine in the barrel. This category is less than 20 years old and it is only within the last few years has it become more easily available locally, in both restaurants and wine shops.
Back in 2010, González Byass, released their first En Rama, using their famed Tio Pepe Fino. Coincidentally, I visited the González Byass Bodega in 2010, though there wasn't any discussion of En Rama at that time. You can check out my prior article for more background on this compelling bodega, which produces a full line of compelling Sherries. Each year, González Byass releases a new Tio Pepe Fino En Rama and 2018 is their ninth release. I recently received a media sample of this new En Rama and was thoroughly pleased with its taste and complexity.
The Fino En Rama is a blend, bottled in April, of 62 carefully selected barrels from the La Constancia and Rebollo cellars. The wine in these barrels, which spent 4-5 years in the solera, is made from Palomino grapes from the famed Macharnudo vineyards. The winemaker, Antonio Flores, has nicknamed this release Armonía Perfecta ("perfect harmony."), also noting that 2018 is "the very best interpretation of vine and cellar, chalk dust and long hours spent selecting this very unique, fresh wine: harmonious, like the sound of a guitar in the stillness of the afternoon."
For the first time, as well as the standard 750ml and 375ml bottles, the En Rama will also be available in a limited quantity of magnums. Many recommend that you consume En Rama within several months of purchase, with the assumption that it won't age well. However, that train of thought may be changing, and some now believe it can age, though obviously aged En Rama will taste very differently over time. With the release of an En Rama in a magnum, it may be support for aging this En Rama, especially as this vintage was so special.
With a 15% ABV, the Tio Pepe Fino En Rama ($27/750ml) has a bright golden color and is aromatic, with intriguing notes of toast and the briny nature of the sea. On the palate, it is fresh and dry, with a complex and intense melange of citrus, almonds, and the taste of the ocean. The finish has a tinge of bitterness, which doesn't detract from the taste, and lingers on your palate for quite a time. It is not as light and subtle as more heavily filtered Fino Sherries. I'm a big fan of this style and love the intense expressiveness of this Tio Pepe.
I'd recommend serving this Sherry slightly chilled and it would pair well with plenty of dishes, from fried foods to seafood, charcuterie to even pork. I enjoyed this Sherry with a simple dish of Fish Sticks, and it worked great. Share a glass of Sherry with friends and family. And I highly recommend you check out the Tio Pepe Fino En Rama.
Wednesday, June 20, 2018
Rhaetian Wines, Favorites of the Ancients: Alto Adige-Südtirol
Strabo, a Greek historian and philosopher, wrote that Rhaetian wine was highly esteemed. Pliny, a Roman natural philosopher, mentioned how Virgil praised Rhaetian wines as second only to the famed Falernian. Suetonius, a Roman historian, penned that Augustus Caesar claimed Rhaetian wine as his favorite above all others.
Can you still find Rhaetian wines, and if so, where?
The Italian region of Alto Adige - Südtirol is the most northernmost wine region in that country, bordering Austria and Switzerland, and sits amidst the Alps and the Dolomites. About twenty-five hundred years ago, this region was home to the Rhaeti, a confederation of alpine tribes, and they are known to have grown vineyards and produced wine. Around 15 B.C., the Romans conquered the Rhaeti, making this region a province of Rome, and continuing the practice of viniculture, especially as they found this region excellent for vineyards.
So, by drinking the wines of the Alto Adige - Südtirol region, you can drink wines of the terroir so highly prized by the ancient writers mentioned above, as well as Augustus Caesar.
I recently attended a trade tasting and seminar on the wines of the Alto Adige-Südtirol, which was moderated by Tim Gaiser, Master Sommelier. The rest of the panel included Judith Unterholzner, the Sales Director for Cantina Keltern and Erste+Neue, Harald Cronst, the Export Manager for Cantina Kurtatsch, and Gottfried Pollinger, the Managing Director of Nals Magreid, The seminar opened with their joint philosophy, "We live wine." Such a beautiful philosophy.
We were then presented with a bit more history, noting that in 1853, the first wine cooperative was established in the region and such cooperatives have remained very important. It wasn't until 1919, after World War I, that Alto Adige-Südtirol became a part of the country of Italy. The region attained DOC status in 1975 and in 2007, the Consortium of Alto Adige-Südtirol was formed. Currently, the region consists of approximately 13,300 acres of vineyards, planted at altitudes from 600 to 3,300 feet, and the soil is primarily volcanic porphyry. It is one of the smallest wine regions in Italy, only about 1% of Italy's total production, however 98% of their wines are of DOC/DOP quality, indicative of the high quality of their wines.
The Alto Adige-Südtirol has 7 subappellations, with about 70% of their wines produced by 12 cooperatives, 25% produced by 33 wine estates, and 5% produced by 100 independent wine growers. Production consists of about 60% white wines and 40% red wines. The primary white grapes include: Pinot Grigio 11.9%, Gewurtztraminer 10.7%, Pinot Bianco 10.2%, Chardonnay 10.1%, Sauvignon Blanc 7.5%, Muller-Thurgau 3.9%, Kerner 1.9%, Moscato Giallo 1.7%, Sylvaner 1.4%, Riesling 1.4%, and Gruner Veltliner 0.3%. The primary red grapes include: Schiava 13.7%, Lagrein 8.8%, Pinot Nero, 8.4%, Merlot 3.5%, Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc 3%, Moscato Rosa 0.2%, and Other 1.2%. During the mid-19th century, international grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon began being planted in the region.
The region has both Alpine and Mediterranean influences and is one of the warmest in Italy, with over 300 days of sunshine and large diurnal shifts. Annually, it receives about 32.5 inches of rain, and vines only need 26 inches so they receive the water they need despite all the sunshine and warmth. This is also a region that is well known for its apples, with over 8,000 growers, and it provides about 10% of all European apples. That is significant considering the tiny size of this region. It is also known for making over 90 different types of cheese!
In 2017, the Alto Adige-Südtirol produced about 3.1 million cases of wine, exporting about 1/3, and their main export markets are Germany, the U.S., and Switzerland. As such, they are very much niche wines which you need to seek out. Their wines tend to have pure, natural flavors and high acidity, and nearly all of their wines spend some time on the lees. Cooperatives are significant, bringing together many tiny farmers, mostly organic, giving them plenty of flexibility and opportunity. To join a cooperative, a farmer must join with all of their vineyards. Finally, the wines of Alto Adige-Südtirol are great food wines and often very good values.
We then proceeded to some comparison tastings, two wines of six different grapes, three white and three red. Of these pairings, I'm going to mention my personal favorite of each comparison.
We began with Pinot Bianco, also known as Weissburgunder, which was first planted in 1852 and now comprises about 1334 acres in the region. Tim Gaiser stated that Pinot Bianco is the "perfect wine in the glass." The Alois Lageder winery, established in 1823, is currently owned and operated by the 5th and 6th generations, Alois and Alois Clements Lageder. The winery is also committed to Biodynamic agriculture. The 2016 Alois Lageder Pinot Bianco Haberle is made from 100% Pinot Bianco, from 21-49 year old vines, and the wine was aged for about 8 months in casks (85%) and stainless steel. With a 13$ ABV, this wine was elegant and complex, with bright fruit notes, from peach to pear, citrus to apple, and a crisp acidity. There are also some underlying mineral notes and a pleasing finish. An excellent summer wine, and which would pair well with seafood and vegetables.
We moved onto Pinot Grigio, also known as Rulander and Grauburgunder, which was first planted in 1848 and now comprises about 1554 acres in the region. It is the most planted variety however the locals don't consume it a lot. The Cantina Tramin winery was founded in 1900, and currently is a cooperative of about 650 growers and 1164 acres of vineyards. The 2016 Cantina Tramin Pinot Grigio Unterebner, made from 100$ pinot Grigio, was aged for 14 months in a mix of 30-40hl casks and 500 liter tonneux. At 14% ABV, it is a more full bodied wine, with citrus flavors, especially lemon, crisp acidity, and savory notes, especially on the finish.
For the final white, we went with Gewurtztraminer, an indigenous variety that is the oldest white variety documented in their records. About 1418 acres are planted, and it was noted that this grape produces the most sugar so it possesses a rounder mouthfeel and works well with spicy dishes. The 2016 Elena Walch Gewrutraminer Vigna Kastlelaz, made from 100% Gewurtztraminer, from 18-25 year old vines, spent about 7 months on the less in stainless steel. With a 14.5% ABV, this wine was extremely aromatic with intense spice notes, some floral elements and a backbone of minerality. Complex and interesting, this would be great with Thai to Indian cuisine.
Our first red grape was Schiava, of which I'll go into more detail later in this article. The Castel Sallegg winery, founded in 1851, is a family run firm of winegrowers, owned by Count von Kuenberg. Their winemaking philosophy is "be genuine." The 2017 Castel Sallegg Lago di Caldaro Scelto Classico Bischofsleiten, made from 100% Schiava, is a single vineyard wine that was aged for 4 months in stainless steel and has a 13.2% ABV. Light bodied, the wine has a nice depth of flavor, with more savory notes, subtle red fruit flavors and a spicy backbone. Very interesting and complex, this wine also has a long, lingering and satisfying finish.
Next we moved onto Pinot Nero, also known as Blauburgunder, which has been grown in the region since the 19th century and there are now 1095 acres of vineyards. The Colterenzio Winery, founded in 1960, is one of the newest cooperatives with 300 winegrowers and 741 acres. Sustainability is very important to them. The 2015 Colterenzio Winery Pinot Nero Riserva St. Daniel, made from 100% Pinot Nero, was aged for 12 months in 35hl casks and barriques, and has a 13.5% ABV. Made more in a Burgundian style, this wine was light bodied with lots of bright red fruits, including some sour cherry, and mild spice notes. Elegant and tasty, it would be a fun summer wine, and would go well with burgers and hotdogs.
The final red grape was Lagrein, occupying 1156 acres, which is an indigenous grape deeply rooted in Bolzano and its first documented mention goes back to 1318. The Cantina Bolzano was formed in 2001, from a merger of two wineries, Gries and St. Magdalena, and is now a cooperative of 220 growers and 864 acres of vineyards. The 2015 Cantina Bolzano Lagrein Riserva Taber, made from 100% Lagrein, was aged for 12 months in French barriques and has a 14% ABV. This is a fruity wine, with concentrated flavors, subtle spice notes and hints of violets. It is an easy drinking wine, which would be delicious on its own or paired with food.
I was especially taken with the Schiava wines. It is an indigenous grape, whose name derives from the word "slave," which was first documented back in 1195 and played a primary tole in the region during the 16th century. It is also known by the German names Vernatsch and Trollinger. Currently, though it has lost some popularity recently, there are about 1972 acres of vineyards, primarily in Bolzano, Merano, Oltradige, and Bassa Atesina. Schiava is said to be a workhouse vine (which may explain its name and derivation), fertile with lots of heavy vines, and more of a prima donna than Pinot Noir. It tends to be light bodied and easy drinking, with almost no tannins and light acidity. Time stated that it was the "best wine for breakfast, lunch and dinner," and is an excellent food wine, especially in the summer when it can be served with a light chill. Just note that you probably won't see the name of the grape on the wine label, just its appellation.
After the seminar, there was an open tasting of other Alto Adige-Südtirol including two additional Schiava wines, both which I tasted.
The 2016 Cantina Bolzano St. Maddalena Classico Huck am Bach, made from 100% Schiava, was aged in large oak casks, and has a 13% ABV. This was an intriguing and complex wine, with plenty of cherry and plum flavors, mild spices notes, a floral wisp, but also a meaty taste, with a smoky finish. Medium-bodied, the wine also had mild tannins and a lengthy finish. Quite delicious and would pair well with grilled meats. Highly recommended.
The Cantina Kaltern was a cooperative founded in 1900 that now consists of 650 growers and 1164 acres. The 2017 Cantina Kaltern Schiava, made from 100% Schiava, was aged for 4 months in stainless steel and large oak casks, and has a 12.5% ABV. It was light bodied, with prominent red fruit flavors, a spicy backbone and crisp acidity. It wasn't as complex as the other Schiava, but still was more than a simple wine. This would be a good wine on its own or paired with meat dishes, or even salmon and tuna.
Augustus Caesar was definitely onto something as the Alto Adige-Südtirol are compelling, food friendly, and delicious.
Can you still find Rhaetian wines, and if so, where?
The Italian region of Alto Adige - Südtirol is the most northernmost wine region in that country, bordering Austria and Switzerland, and sits amidst the Alps and the Dolomites. About twenty-five hundred years ago, this region was home to the Rhaeti, a confederation of alpine tribes, and they are known to have grown vineyards and produced wine. Around 15 B.C., the Romans conquered the Rhaeti, making this region a province of Rome, and continuing the practice of viniculture, especially as they found this region excellent for vineyards.
So, by drinking the wines of the Alto Adige - Südtirol region, you can drink wines of the terroir so highly prized by the ancient writers mentioned above, as well as Augustus Caesar.
I recently attended a trade tasting and seminar on the wines of the Alto Adige-Südtirol, which was moderated by Tim Gaiser, Master Sommelier. The rest of the panel included Judith Unterholzner, the Sales Director for Cantina Keltern and Erste+Neue, Harald Cronst, the Export Manager for Cantina Kurtatsch, and Gottfried Pollinger, the Managing Director of Nals Magreid, The seminar opened with their joint philosophy, "We live wine." Such a beautiful philosophy.
We were then presented with a bit more history, noting that in 1853, the first wine cooperative was established in the region and such cooperatives have remained very important. It wasn't until 1919, after World War I, that Alto Adige-Südtirol became a part of the country of Italy. The region attained DOC status in 1975 and in 2007, the Consortium of Alto Adige-Südtirol was formed. Currently, the region consists of approximately 13,300 acres of vineyards, planted at altitudes from 600 to 3,300 feet, and the soil is primarily volcanic porphyry. It is one of the smallest wine regions in Italy, only about 1% of Italy's total production, however 98% of their wines are of DOC/DOP quality, indicative of the high quality of their wines.
The Alto Adige-Südtirol has 7 subappellations, with about 70% of their wines produced by 12 cooperatives, 25% produced by 33 wine estates, and 5% produced by 100 independent wine growers. Production consists of about 60% white wines and 40% red wines. The primary white grapes include: Pinot Grigio 11.9%, Gewurtztraminer 10.7%, Pinot Bianco 10.2%, Chardonnay 10.1%, Sauvignon Blanc 7.5%, Muller-Thurgau 3.9%, Kerner 1.9%, Moscato Giallo 1.7%, Sylvaner 1.4%, Riesling 1.4%, and Gruner Veltliner 0.3%. The primary red grapes include: Schiava 13.7%, Lagrein 8.8%, Pinot Nero, 8.4%, Merlot 3.5%, Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc 3%, Moscato Rosa 0.2%, and Other 1.2%. During the mid-19th century, international grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon began being planted in the region.
In 2017, the Alto Adige-Südtirol produced about 3.1 million cases of wine, exporting about 1/3, and their main export markets are Germany, the U.S., and Switzerland. As such, they are very much niche wines which you need to seek out. Their wines tend to have pure, natural flavors and high acidity, and nearly all of their wines spend some time on the lees. Cooperatives are significant, bringing together many tiny farmers, mostly organic, giving them plenty of flexibility and opportunity. To join a cooperative, a farmer must join with all of their vineyards. Finally, the wines of Alto Adige-Südtirol are great food wines and often very good values.
We then proceeded to some comparison tastings, two wines of six different grapes, three white and three red. Of these pairings, I'm going to mention my personal favorite of each comparison.
We began with Pinot Bianco, also known as Weissburgunder, which was first planted in 1852 and now comprises about 1334 acres in the region. Tim Gaiser stated that Pinot Bianco is the "perfect wine in the glass." The Alois Lageder winery, established in 1823, is currently owned and operated by the 5th and 6th generations, Alois and Alois Clements Lageder. The winery is also committed to Biodynamic agriculture. The 2016 Alois Lageder Pinot Bianco Haberle is made from 100% Pinot Bianco, from 21-49 year old vines, and the wine was aged for about 8 months in casks (85%) and stainless steel. With a 13$ ABV, this wine was elegant and complex, with bright fruit notes, from peach to pear, citrus to apple, and a crisp acidity. There are also some underlying mineral notes and a pleasing finish. An excellent summer wine, and which would pair well with seafood and vegetables.
We moved onto Pinot Grigio, also known as Rulander and Grauburgunder, which was first planted in 1848 and now comprises about 1554 acres in the region. It is the most planted variety however the locals don't consume it a lot. The Cantina Tramin winery was founded in 1900, and currently is a cooperative of about 650 growers and 1164 acres of vineyards. The 2016 Cantina Tramin Pinot Grigio Unterebner, made from 100$ pinot Grigio, was aged for 14 months in a mix of 30-40hl casks and 500 liter tonneux. At 14% ABV, it is a more full bodied wine, with citrus flavors, especially lemon, crisp acidity, and savory notes, especially on the finish.
For the final white, we went with Gewurtztraminer, an indigenous variety that is the oldest white variety documented in their records. About 1418 acres are planted, and it was noted that this grape produces the most sugar so it possesses a rounder mouthfeel and works well with spicy dishes. The 2016 Elena Walch Gewrutraminer Vigna Kastlelaz, made from 100% Gewurtztraminer, from 18-25 year old vines, spent about 7 months on the less in stainless steel. With a 14.5% ABV, this wine was extremely aromatic with intense spice notes, some floral elements and a backbone of minerality. Complex and interesting, this would be great with Thai to Indian cuisine.
Our first red grape was Schiava, of which I'll go into more detail later in this article. The Castel Sallegg winery, founded in 1851, is a family run firm of winegrowers, owned by Count von Kuenberg. Their winemaking philosophy is "be genuine." The 2017 Castel Sallegg Lago di Caldaro Scelto Classico Bischofsleiten, made from 100% Schiava, is a single vineyard wine that was aged for 4 months in stainless steel and has a 13.2% ABV. Light bodied, the wine has a nice depth of flavor, with more savory notes, subtle red fruit flavors and a spicy backbone. Very interesting and complex, this wine also has a long, lingering and satisfying finish.
Next we moved onto Pinot Nero, also known as Blauburgunder, which has been grown in the region since the 19th century and there are now 1095 acres of vineyards. The Colterenzio Winery, founded in 1960, is one of the newest cooperatives with 300 winegrowers and 741 acres. Sustainability is very important to them. The 2015 Colterenzio Winery Pinot Nero Riserva St. Daniel, made from 100% Pinot Nero, was aged for 12 months in 35hl casks and barriques, and has a 13.5% ABV. Made more in a Burgundian style, this wine was light bodied with lots of bright red fruits, including some sour cherry, and mild spice notes. Elegant and tasty, it would be a fun summer wine, and would go well with burgers and hotdogs.
The final red grape was Lagrein, occupying 1156 acres, which is an indigenous grape deeply rooted in Bolzano and its first documented mention goes back to 1318. The Cantina Bolzano was formed in 2001, from a merger of two wineries, Gries and St. Magdalena, and is now a cooperative of 220 growers and 864 acres of vineyards. The 2015 Cantina Bolzano Lagrein Riserva Taber, made from 100% Lagrein, was aged for 12 months in French barriques and has a 14% ABV. This is a fruity wine, with concentrated flavors, subtle spice notes and hints of violets. It is an easy drinking wine, which would be delicious on its own or paired with food.
I was especially taken with the Schiava wines. It is an indigenous grape, whose name derives from the word "slave," which was first documented back in 1195 and played a primary tole in the region during the 16th century. It is also known by the German names Vernatsch and Trollinger. Currently, though it has lost some popularity recently, there are about 1972 acres of vineyards, primarily in Bolzano, Merano, Oltradige, and Bassa Atesina. Schiava is said to be a workhouse vine (which may explain its name and derivation), fertile with lots of heavy vines, and more of a prima donna than Pinot Noir. It tends to be light bodied and easy drinking, with almost no tannins and light acidity. Time stated that it was the "best wine for breakfast, lunch and dinner," and is an excellent food wine, especially in the summer when it can be served with a light chill. Just note that you probably won't see the name of the grape on the wine label, just its appellation.
After the seminar, there was an open tasting of other Alto Adige-Südtirol including two additional Schiava wines, both which I tasted.
The 2016 Cantina Bolzano St. Maddalena Classico Huck am Bach, made from 100% Schiava, was aged in large oak casks, and has a 13% ABV. This was an intriguing and complex wine, with plenty of cherry and plum flavors, mild spices notes, a floral wisp, but also a meaty taste, with a smoky finish. Medium-bodied, the wine also had mild tannins and a lengthy finish. Quite delicious and would pair well with grilled meats. Highly recommended.
The Cantina Kaltern was a cooperative founded in 1900 that now consists of 650 growers and 1164 acres. The 2017 Cantina Kaltern Schiava, made from 100% Schiava, was aged for 4 months in stainless steel and large oak casks, and has a 12.5% ABV. It was light bodied, with prominent red fruit flavors, a spicy backbone and crisp acidity. It wasn't as complex as the other Schiava, but still was more than a simple wine. This would be a good wine on its own or paired with meat dishes, or even salmon and tuna.
Augustus Caesar was definitely onto something as the Alto Adige-Südtirol are compelling, food friendly, and delicious.
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