2024 Varvaglione 1921 Susumaniello Rosé: A Puglia Prize

Apulia, also known as Puglia, is an Italian region which occupies the "heel" of the Italian "boot," bordering the Adriatic Sea on its east coast. This region is best known for its red wines, especially those made from Primitivo and Negroamaro. However, you can find other interesting red grapes there, although their total acreage may be small. One such grape, of ancient lineage, is Susumaniello. 

The name, "susumaniello," may derive from the term "somarello," which roughly translates as "small donkey." This may refer to the hardiness of the grape, as the donkey can handle a great load, or it may refer to the grape bunches, which some claim resemble an overloaded donkey. DNA analysis indicates the grape is a cross between Garganega and Uva Sogra, and there are some claims that the grape originated in the Dalmatian region of Croatia, although proof of such is largely lacking. However, as it's known Primitivo originated in Dalmatia, it wouldn't be a stretch to consider Susumaniello had a similar journey. 

During the 20th century, Susumaniello fell out of favor, as it became low yielding, and farmers preferred to work with more productive vines, like Primitivo and Negroamaro. However, in time, the low yields of Susumaniello became seen as a strength, indicative of higher quality, by a number of wineries, and the grape was saved from extinction. It's now used as a blending grape, as a single varietal, and in Rosé wines. 

Varvaglione 1921 is a family-owned winery based in Leporano, on the coast of the Ionian Sea, in Puglia. It was established just over 100 years ago, making it one of the oldest wineries in southern Italy, and is currently owned and operated by the fourth generation of the Varvaglione family. The winery focuses on the native grapes of the region, including Primitivo, Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera, Aglianico, Verdeca, Falanghina, Malvasia Bianca and Fiano. They own about 150 hectares of vineyards, and also purchase fruit from low grape growers. They are also certified sustainable. 

I recently received a media sample of the 2024 Varvaglione 1921 Susumaniello Rosé (about $19), which is produced from 100% Susumaniello and has a 13% ABV. The wine is aged in stainless steel, with periodic suspension of the lees. With a vibrant pink color, the nose is alluring with plenty of red fruit aromas and hints of spice. On the palate, it is crisp and dry, with bright red fruit flavors of strawberry, raspberry and cherry, along with subtle spice notes. On the lengthy finish, there's hints of minerality, and it's simply delicious. This would be excellent on its own, although it would also be an excellent food wine. 

Overall, this was an impressive Rosé, perfect for the summer, but which would be great year round. It would make a very good choice for Thanksgiving dinner. And at under $20, this wine is a good value as well. 

Bluefin Tuna Dinner at Tonno (Wakefield): Can't Get Any Fresher!

It's only natural that a restaurant named "Tonno," an Italian word for "Tuna," would host a special bluefin dinner, accompanied by a tuna butchery demo. 

Back in 2016, Chef/Owner Anthony Caturano (of Prezza fame) opened Tonno, an Italian Seafood restaurant, in Gloucester. And then in 2018, Chef Caturano opened a second location of Tonno, in Wakefield. The concept of Tonno is to feature "coastal Italian seafood and other treasures from land and sea. The culinary program is designed to showcase Italian seafood classics, with nightly specials that reflect the catches of the day from the local waters." From the start, I was a fan of the cuisine of the Wakefield location of Tonno, and as it was only a short distance from my home, it was convenient.  

Last week, Chef Caturano held a multi-course Bluefin Tuna Dinner at Tonno, and also conducted a butchery demo of the tuna (which is pictured above). The tuna was originally about 6 1/2 feet long, although the head had already been removed before the demo. About 80% of the tuna yields meat, which is certainly a significant proportion. As it's relatively early in the bluefin season, the fish was a bit leaner, which is good for restaurants that want to prepare tuna steaks. 

Here's a ten minute video of Chef Caturano butchering the bluefin, which was certainly fascinating as he explained the process while he worked. Plus, you knew that you would soon after receive dishes made from the tuna you just watched being prepared. 

After the tuna was almost completely butchered, you can see the end result above. However, there was still meat on the tuna, between the bones, and Chef Caturano used a spoon to remove some of it. The rest was likely removed back in the kitchen as it would have been a laborious, but worthwhile, effort to remove all of it by spoon.  

To accompany the bluefin, I opted for a Dolcetto, a lighter-style Italian red wine, and it worked well, especially with the pasta course and the grilled tuna steak. 

We began our dinner with a complimentary course, some of the tuna that had been scooped out, from between the bones, with crostini. It was silky and flavorful, a tasty way to begin.

The First Course was then Tuna Belly Crudo, with fennel, radish, cucumbers, pickled red fresno peppers, chive oil, and a blood orange vinaigrette. The Crudo slices were firmer and a bit chewier, and the citrus flavors, with a touch of heat, made a nice accompaniment.  

The Second Course was a plentiful mound of Tuna Tartare with a chive oil and crostini. Again, the small chunks were silky and flavorful, almost melting in your mouth. The crostini added a nice textural element. 

The Third Course was Rigatoni Pasta, with seared tuna, tomato, black olives, and capers. The house-made pasta was prepared al dente, and had a pleasant firmness. The sauce complemented the seared tuna pieces and there was a pleasing salty element from the olives and capers. 

The Fourth Course was a Grilled Tuna Steak with heirloom tomatoes, fennel puree, and chive oil. Again, this was a hearty portion of tuna, and it was tender and delicious, accented by the chive oil, with a nice light char. 

For Dessert, we enjoyed Strawberries with mascarpone whipped cream and a balsamic glaze, and a small biscotti. Fresh and sweet, this was a tasty summer treat, and a nice ending to the tuna dinner. 

Overall, this was an excellent dinner, with plenty of delicious bluefin tuna, which couldn't have been any fresher. The butchery demo was educational and interesting, and more people should understand more about how their food is prepared. The five-course dinner cost $165 per person (which included tip), and drinks were a la carte. Kudos to Chef Caturano for hosting such a fun and tasty event. Check out Tonno, in Wakefield or Gloucester, to enjoy their cuisine. 

Alileo Wines: Sicilian, Organic Boxed Wines

As I've mentioned before, boxed wines generally have a poor reputation in many circles. It's often thought only cheap, mass produced wines are placed into boxes and that's true in some cases. However, there are wineries that produce tasty and higher quality wines in boxes, and I've positively reviewed some over the years.

There are advantages to boxed wines over glass bottled wines. First, once you open the wine, if properly stored, the boxed wine will keep fresh for about a month, much longer than a bottle once you open it. Second, the boxed packaging is more environmentally friendly in a few ways. For example, it weighs less than glass bottles so transportation expenses and fuel expenditures are less. 

I was recently contacted by representatives of Alileo Wines, a Sicilian, natural boxed wine brand, and offered samples of two of their wines. The company was founded by Antonio Bertone and Alexandra Drane, a husband and wife, and is a partnership with Antonio’s family in Sicily. "The brand was started to pay homage to their family’s Sicilian roots as well as give their family in Sicily upward economic mobility." 

Their organic boxed wines are produced using traditional methods with grapes from the west coast of Sicily. Wine production uses spontaneous fermentation, without added yeast, and it's boxed unfiltered. Alileo offers four varietals that come in 1.5 liter ($19.99) and 3.0 liter ($39.99) boxes. The 1.5 liter box is equivalent to two bottles of wine, and the 3 liter box is equivalent to four bottles.

Sustainability is a dominant value for Alileo, in all aspects of their operations. The packaging of their boxed wines is produced with less energy than glass bottles, and the packaging is also an easier recycled product. Boxed wines also can fit more wine in each shipment than bottles, resulting in lower fuel consumption and fewer emissions. Plus, all of these factors have lowered their operational costs, and they have passed those savings onto their customers, with lower wine prices.

Alileo Wines has also received a B Corp™ certification. "B Corp Certification is a designation that a business is meeting high standards of verified performance, accountability, and transparency on factors from employee benefits and charitable giving to supply chain practices and input materials." World wide, only about 100 wineries have B Corp certification. “From the first conversations about Alileo around our family’s dining table in 2020, we have always had our commitment to our environment, community and team at the forefront of every decision we make,” said Antonio Bertone. 

The Alileo Wines Young Bianco is produced from young Grillo grapes, a grape whose origins are unknown although it has been known to be on Sicily since at least 1897. Through DNA analysis, it was learned that Grillo is a natural cross between Catarratto Bianco and Muscat of Alexandria. With a bright yellow color, and a 12.5% ABV, the wine had a pleasing nose of citrus and floral notes, both which come out on the palate as well. It is fresh and clean, with good acidity, savory and herbal notes, and a pleasant finish. An excellent summer wine.   

The Alileo Wines Rosato Bronzato is produced from 100% Syrah and has a 12% ABV. "Bronzato" means "tanned by the sun," but it's also a slang term for "someone who partakes in some sporty imbibing." For Alileo, they use the term to reference the "feeling of being tanned by the sun," as if you're drinking the wine on a sunny beach. With a dark pink color, and a fruity aroma, the wine is fresh and crisp, with a medium-body and tasty, bright flavors of red fruit, especially cherry, and a savory element. Excellent on its own, and perfect for the summer, but it's very food friendly as well. 

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With the sustainability advantages of boxed wine, as well as the fact that the Alileo Wines is using organic grapes, and numerous sustainability practices throughout their business, they have much to offer consumers. Most importantly, the wine is tasty and very reasonably priced, equal to an average of $10 for a 750ml bottle. And with summer coming, boxed wine is a great choice for taking on boats, to the beach, on picnics, hiking and more. You don't have to worry about glass potentially breaking or the need for a corkscrew. And it's easier to pack than several bottles of wine. 

It's only Natural to enjoy these Sicilian, organic boxed wines!

A Tavola Wine Dinner: Wines For 2025

It was a packed house last Wednesday night at A Tavola, in Winchester, for a delicious wine dinner event, "Wines you should know of and should be drinking in 2025." Chefs Joe Carli (pictured above on the right side) and David Paige created and prepared a superb multi-course dinner while Ciro Pirone (pictured above on the left) of PSP Global Wines presented the four intriguing wines paired with the various dishes.

A Tavola was one of my Top Four Favorite Restaurants of 2024, and their wine dinners are always a treat. And Ciro, a friendly and humorous person, always presents an excellent selection of Italian wines, that pair well with the cuisine. I went home from the dinner, fully sated and fully pleased with everything I'd consumed. 

The evening began with a cocktail, the Grinta Spritz, which is made with Grinta Amaro, lemon, and Prosecco. Grinta Amaro is a digestif made in the Piedmont region of Italy, produced with a variety of local herbs and roots. The Grinta Spritz possessed a tasty herbal element, with hints of bitterness and citrus notes. A refreshing start to the meal.  

With the cocktail, we snacked upon some thinly sliced Soppressata and 32 month-old aged Parmigiano. I enjoyed the flavorful Soppressata but it was the aged Parmigiano which really stood out to me. The texture, with its crunch, is appealing, along with flavors of hints of spice, dried fruits and strong umami. 

The first wine of the evening was the 2022 Bocale Trebbiano Spoletino, a white wine made from 100% Trebbiano Spoletino, which is a different type of Trebbiano than many have experienced before.  the grape is grown in the region of Umbria, The winery was established in 2002, although the family has roots in the area for over one hundred years. The term "bocale" refers to "a two-liter mug of wine or olive oil," and the name has been used by the family for many years. Their vineyards are sustainably farmed. 

The wine matures on the lees for several months, and sees only stainless steel. It was a fascinating wine, with complex and intriguing flavors, including citrus and stone fruit, with a strong herbal streak and hints of saline. A very unique tasting wine and its flavors seem to evolve over time in the glass. Highly recommended, especially considering it commonly retails for under $20. 

The Trebbiano Lemon was a pleasant pairing with the lemon and parsley Arancini, in a Green Goddess aioli. A nice crispy and light exterior, hiding the more creamy interior, with the acidity of the lemon providing a nice balance. 

The next wine was the 2021 Federico Ferrero Barbera d'Alba, produced by a winery whose roots extend back over 200 years, although the modern winery was established around 2002. A fine Barbera, with a rich body, plenty of red and black fruit flavors, good acidity, low tannins, and a pleasing finish.

The next dish was Hand-Rolled Pici, topped by a San Marzano tomato crema and basil. The Pici, which originated in Tuscany, is like a fatter version of spaghetti. The name "Pici" is said to derive from the term "appiciare," which refers to the technique of forming the long, thicker pasta. The Pici had a nice, thicker taste, with a delightful light tomato crema. It was a heartier dish with the Pici, and a nice pairing with the Barbera. 

My favorite wine of the evening was the 2019 Torrevento Castel del Monte Bolonero, produced by a winery whose history extends back about 100 years. The winery practices sustainable farming practices. This wine is a blend of 80% Nero di Troia and 20% Aglianico, which ages for about 8 months in stainless steel. Nero di Troia is a lesser known grape from Puglia, whose origins may extend back to the ancient Greeks. However, it's said to produce quite delicious wines and is said to be deserving of much more attention.

The wine was silky smooth, with a complex melange of flavors, including ripe plum and black cherries, accented by spice notes and savory herbs. Restrained tannins, excellent acidity, and a lingering, satisfying finish. Pure deliciousness and highly recommended, especially considering it commonly retails for only around $15. 

This wine was also paired with my favorite dish of the evening, Braised Texas Boar Cacciatore and Yukon potatoes. The dish was loaded with meaty pieces of tender boar, with a compelling blend of a variety of spices. I've long been a fan of boar, and it's a popular dish in a number of regions in Italy as well. Hearty and delicious, this was a perfect dish for a chilly evening, and the wine was a nice choice for the pairing. 

The final wine of the evening was the 2011 Il Moro di San Giovanni Supertuscan, a blend of 40% Cabernet France, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Petite Verdot. Their vineyards were planted in 2003. The wine ages in French barriques, both New and Old, for about 10-12 months. The wine is bigger and bolder than the previous reds, but still much more restrained than you might expect. It's a well balanced wine, with a complex blend of flavors, from black and blue fruits to savory spices, to hints of leather and a touch of earthiness. An impressive wine that calls out for a hearty dish. 

And such a hearty dish came, with the Barbera Braised Short Rib & Roman Gnocchi. The amply-sized hunk of extremely tender and flavorful short rib was an excellent pairing to the Supertuscan. you only needed a fork to break up the short rib, and each mouth-watering taste was a pure delight. The Roman Gnocchi was something different for me, as it looks more like polenta, but is made with egg, and thus has a touch of a more custard-like texture. It was delicious and I appreciated this more unique addition to the plate.

Overall, this was another amazing wine dinner from the team at A Tavola. At $110 per person, you received an ample portion of delicious dishes, four excellent wines, and a tasty cocktail. A good value considering the quality and quantity of everything. A Tavola is consistently excellent, which is a major reason why it's one of my Top Favorites. 

Keep an eye on their Calendar for future wine dinners, and I'll note that they may hold a BBQ dinner in March. I attended their last Bourbon & BBQ dinner, and it was a superb experience. Or just stop by A Tavola any time for dinner.

Top Twenty Wines of 2024

As 2025 approaches, it's time once again to reflect upon the past year, to remember and savor pleasant memories. Previously, I posted three of my food-related Favorites lists and it's now time to cover my Top Twenty Wines of 2024. 

This list includes wines that not only I enjoyed, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines that I've tasted this past year. This list also includes only wines I reviewed on my blog, although I tasted some excellent wines that I didn't write about. Those wines might be mentioned elsewhere in my Favorites lists. 

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I strongly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers would also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local region, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

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1) 2021 Villa Matilde Fiano di Avellino ($22)

I enjoyed this wine at a wine dinner at A Tavola in Winchester. Made in the Campania region, this wine is made from 100% Fiano, and the vineyards have limestone soils with a top layer of volcanic soil. The wine is aged for about four months in stainless steel, and will age well. It possesses an alluring aroma of citrus and floral notes and on the palate, it's complex, dry, and crisp. You may get notes of apple and lemon, floral notes and hazelnut, as well as a backbone of minerality. A lengthy, pleasing finish completes this well balanced and delicious wine.  

2) 2019 Palladino Langhe Nebbiolo D'Alba ($25)

At the same wine dinner at A Tavola, this was my favorite wine of the night. Fermented in stainless steel, it's then aged in Slavonian oak. It possessed an alluring aroma, a palate of complexity, and epitomized pure deliciousness. Such an intriguing melange of black cherry, raspberries and ripe plum, with hints of violets and mild spice. Restrained tannins, well-balanced, elegant and compelling. This is a wine to slowly savor over the course of an evening, enjoying how it evolves over time. 

3) 2022 C&C Lecareux L'Hydrophobe ($28)
Produced by Domaine Les Capréoles in the Brouilly appellation in Beaujolais, this wine was produced during a rough vintage where hail destroyed much of their vineyard. However, they persevered with what grapes they could save, some of their Gamay vines being over 80 years old. With an intriguing nose of cherries, violets, and subtle spices, on the palate, it was bright, fresh, fruity and complex with silky tannins. A delightful melange of ripe plum, black cherries, hints of forest, a touch of minerality, and even a subtle briny note. Well balanced, good acidity, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. You can easily enjoy this wine on its own, but it also will pair well with a variety of foods, from pizza to burgers. 

4) 2019 Sant'Or Santameriana Orange Wine ($25)
Santameriana is a traditional Greek grape, with a lengthy history, but it was devastated by phyloxera in the first half of the 20th century. Fortunately, a few vines have survived. This wine was made from 100% Santameriana which were fermented with native yeasts. The wine was amphora aged (the amphora being around 200 years old), with 20 days of skin contact. It was also unfined, unfiltered, with a very low level of sulfites, and is vegan. With a 13% ABV, the wine possessed a light orange color, with an intense, complex and intriguing nose of citrus, pear, dried fruits, and tea notes. On the palate, it was medium-bodied and elegant, with good acidity and a minerality streak. The flavors were complex, including orange, pear, honey, and dried fruit, with prominent tannins and a length, satisfying finish. It was also savory, not sweet, with subtle hints of herbs and spices. A fascinating wine which benefited from slowly sipping it over time, allowing it to evolve, presenting different flavors and aromas over time. 

5) 2018 Korak Stare Sorte Amber Wine ($60+)
I purchased this wine while I was in Croatia, and it's probably not available currently in the U.S. The Korak Family Estate is well known for its Sparkling Wines, but it also produces several different skin contact wines. This wine, inspired by "In Search of Lost Time" by Marcel Proust, is an intriguing field blend of grapes, many old vines, including Šipelj, Belina, Plavac Zuti, Rizvanac, Grasevina, Veltliner, Silvanac, and Traminac. The grapes were macerated for about 60 days, natural yeasts were used, there was no added sulfur, and it was only 12% ABV. Only 500 bottles were produced! This was an amazing wine, complex and well balanced, with such a depth of flavor. Tannic, herbal notes, subtle spices, dried fruits, minerality, and much more. Great acidity and a long, lingering finish. Each sip delights the palate, bringing something new with each taste. One of the more unique wines I tasted in Croatia. 

6) 2018 Clai Sv. Jakov Malvazija ($50+)
This was another wine I bought during my last Croatian trip, although it is available in some places in the U.S. This wine was produced from 100% Malvazija, which are certified organic, and the vineyard is about 42 years old. This wine is only bottled in excellent vintages, and the 2016 was the previous vintage bottled before the 2018. The grapes spend two months with skin contact, and later aged for two years in large oak barrels, ending with a 15% ABV. It possesses an alluring and complex aroma, and on the palate, the complexity remained, each sip bringing something new and exciting to my palate. Savory, delicious and compelling, a type of wine which is hard to easily describe. 

7) 2021 FIOL Prosecco DOC Rosé Extra Dry ($22)

I'm not usually a fan of Prosecco but this wine was a stand-out. A Prosecco DOC Rosé must be a blend of Glera and Pinot Nero (10-15%) and undergo a minimum 60-day secondary fermentation in tank (double the time for a “classic” Prosecco). It must also be vintage-dated. This wine was a blend of 85% Glera and 15% Pinot Nero, with an alcohol content of 11% and residual sugar of 13 g/L. The Charmat method was used to produce it. The wine possessed a fine pink color and a pleasant aroma of red fruits with citrus notes. On the palate, it was dry and crisp, with plenty of tiny bubbles and prominent flavors of strawberry and raspberry, with more subtle notes of apple, lemon and peach. It also possessed a fairly long, clean and pleasing finish. It was a well balanced and delicious sparkling wine. A great choice for people seeking a Prosecco which differs from the rest of the crowd. 

8) VOGA Prosecco DOC Still ($15)

Again, I found another interesting Prosecco but this time it wasn't Sparkling. Were you aware that the Prosecco DOC includes Still wines, known as Tranquilo? It's not a style which is commonly available in the U.S. The VOGA Prosecco DOC Still, with a 10.5% ABV, is produced from 100% Glera, which commonly has high acidity and is known for a taste of white peaches. This wine possessed a pleasant nose of citrus, especially pear and melon notes. On the palate, it was light, crisp and dry, with tasty flavors of pear, green apple and a touch of floral notes. It was an easy drinking wine, although it wasn't overly simple. A fine summer wine for patio sipping, or to accompany seafood and light chicken dishes.

9) 2023 Parajes del Valle Bobal Ecologia Rosado ($16-$18)
This Spanish Rosé is made from 100% Bobal, organically grown, from the Manchuelo DOP, in high-elevation vineyards, which average 45 years old, with solids rich in clay and limestone. The Bobal grapes are pressed, without maceration, and fermented with native yeasts in concrete. The wine is then aged in concrete tanks until bottling. With a 12% ABV, the Rosé has a darker pink color with an alluring nose of red fruits with subtle herbal notes. On the palate, it's dry and crisp, with delicious and complex flavors of raspberry, cherry, and strawberries and more subtle citrus and melon flavors. It's also accented with intriguing herbal notes, a touch of minerality, and possesses a lengthy and pleasing finish. An excellent Rosé, it works well on its own during summer weather but also is very food friendly, doing well with seafood. 

10) The 2022 Mersel Red Velvet ($25)
This Lebanese wine is produced from 100% Cinsault, from ten year old organic vines located at Deir El Ahmar in the Bekaa Valley, at an altitude of about 1,200m. With native yeasts, it was fermented in a sealed concrete tank and eventually underwent malolactic fermentation too. The wine was also unfiltered and unfined. Even though it's a red wine, the winery recommends that it be served chilled, as you would a white wine, and I followed their suggestion. With a 13% ABV, the Red Velvet had a pleasant smell of red fruits with a touch of spice, and on the palate, it was light-bodied, dry, and with a hint of spritz. The flavors included strawberry, cherry, cranberry with subtle spice notes. Definitely a nice summer wine, especially with the chill to the wine. Easy drinking, but not overly simple. Would be a good wine with barbecue or even just pizza. 

11) 2016 Cara Nord Trepat ($17)
This Spanish red wine is produced from Trepat, an indigenous grape. This wine was fermented in a stainless steel tank, and then aged for an additional ten months in the tank, seeing no oak aging. With a 12.5% ABV, the wine is a dark red, almost purple color, with a pleasant nose of red fruits and the hint of herbs. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied and complex, with plenty of flavors of cherry, strawberry and ripe plum, with herbal accents and subtle earthy notes. A moderately long and satisfying finish. Interesting and delicious, indicative of the potential of Trepat. This would be an excellent wine with grilled meats or even just pizza. 

12) Bodegas 501 Gades Amontillado Viejisimo VORS Sherry ($50-$65)
This winery no longer exists, so wine could be difficult to find. This is a VORS Amontillado, a wine that must average at least 30 years old, but this wine is likely even older. An Amontillado is a type of sherry which undergoes both biological and oxidative aging. This Amontillado possessed a light amber color, with an alluring aroma. On the palate, it was dry and complex, with harmonious flavors of salted nuts, caramel, mild spices, and a touch of tobacco. It also possessed a lengthy and intriguing finish, providing much pleasure. As I slowly sipped the wine over the course of the evening, the wine evolved in the glass, with other complex flavors seem to peek out at times, making this a wine to savor slowly over time, relishing its fascinating profile. A superb sherry! 

13) 2019 Achados e Perdidos Codega do Larinho Vinho Branco ($12)

An excellent example of a value wine. This Portuguese white wine is made from 100% Côdega do Larinho, a rare, indigenous grape, primarily found in the Douro and Tras-os-Montes regions. It's a pale-skinned grape which is aromatic and floral, with notes of citrus and tropical fruit. It often has low acidity, so tends to be blended with higher acidity grapes. In the past, the grapes were often used in field blends for white Port. The grapes for this wine come from a 100-year old vineyard, which is organically farmed, on black schists soils with some granitic sands. During production, there's minimal skin contact and fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks, using native yeasts. The wine, with a 12% ABV, is then aged in the bottle for a year. Despite the grape commonly said to have low acidity, this wine proves exceptions exist. It actually possesses a crisp acidity, a nicely balanced wine, and is a sheer pleasure to drink. Notes of tart lemon, ripe peach and juicy pineapple with a backbone of minerality. A pleasing, lengthy finish.

14) 2022 Troupis Hoof & Lur Moschofilero ($20-$25)
A Greek wine made from 100% Moschofilero, an indigenous grape whose history probably extends back to antiquity. It's a pink-skinned, aromatic white grape, and used in White, Rosé and Sparkling wines. The winery states that this wine is "an homage to the wines native to the high plateau of Mantinia for millennia." The Moschofilero grapes spent three months on the skins, and then were fermented, with wild yeasts, in terra cotta spheres, with stirring of the lees. The wine wasn't fined or filtered, and also is vegan. This is supposed to be the style of wine that their parents and grandparents once enjoyed. The color of this wine is a dark blood orange, the hue from the pink grape skins more than evident. It's much darker than many other amber colored, skin-contact wines. You might almost think it were a light red wine. The aromas are enticing, an intriguing blend of citrus and spice. And on the palate, there's a complex blend of flavors, bright citrus, red berries, spice, and touches of honey. Crisp acidity, moderate tannins, a rich mouthfeel and a lengthy, pleasing finish. Overall, an intriguing and tasty wine which will appeal to adventurous wine lovers.

15) 2021 Chateau Musar Levantine De Musar ($35)

This Lebanese wine is produced from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, and Tempranillo. The winery has been growing Tempranillo for about 12 years, having planted it due to the effects of climate change. Another effect is that they now harvest about two weeks earlier than they once did. It took about three months to come up with the name of this wine, and the first vintage was in 2016. This is a small production wine, only about 10% of the production level of the Chateau Musar Jeune Red. This unoaked wine is silky smooth, with low tannins, and delicious flavors of red and black fruit, and subtle spice notes. If you enjoy Spanish reds, you will likely enjoy this wine.  

16) 1997 Chateau Musar Blanc ($80)

This Lebanese white wine is one of the flagship wines of this acclaimed winery. The Blanc is a blend of 75% Obeideh and 25% Merwah, two indigneous grapes from organic vineyards, which are 100-120 years old. This vintage possessed a darker, more amber color, and also possessed a fuller body, than younger vintages. It was elegant and ethereal, with complex, but more subtle flavors of fruit, spice, honey, caramel and herbs. Each sip brought new flavors to mind, and I was mesmerized by the quality of this wine and how well it had aged. It's a wine that must be experienced, and for which words cannot do proper justice. 

17) 1997 Chateau Musar Rouge ($160):

This Lebanese red wine is the other flagship wine of this acclaimed winery. It is produced from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, and Carignan (from organic vineyards), which underwent a lengthy fermentation in cement vats before aging in French oak for a year. The wine is then typically released 7 years after the harvest. I enjoyed this wine at a special dinner at Prezza, paired with luscious Lamb Chops. It was an amazing vintage, still with plenty of intriguing fruit flavors and plenty of acidity. It was aromatic and ethereal, complex and intriguing. Another wine that changes over time in the glass, and which will cause you to consider the various flavors that evolve over time. It's another wine that must be experienced, and for which words cannot do proper justice. 

18) 2012 Ippolito 1845 Ripe del Falco Ciro Riserva ($24) 
I ordered this wine at the Sogno Restaurant in Woburn. This Italian wine, from the Calabrian region, is produced from 100% Gaglioppo grapes from a 40+ year old vineyard. I found it to be complex and interesting, with an intense aroma and a pleasing taste of red and black fruits, spice notes and some subtle herbal notes. Good acidity, restrained tannins and a lengthy and satisfying finish. It was an excellent food wine and I'll be seeking out this wine to purchase at retail. 

19) 2022 Thymiopoulos Xinomavro Young Vines ($20). 

This Greek wine is produced from 100% Xynomavro, an indigenous grape whose name roughly translates as "acid-black." Xinomavro is the second most planted red grape in Greece. The grape is most often compared to Nebbiolo (and sometimes Burgundy), and tends to possess strong tannins and high acidity, meaning it also can age very well. As the wine ages, it starts to lose its red fruit flavors and begins to acquire savory notes, especially tomato and olive. This wine presented delicious juicy red fruit flavors, accented by good acidity, a subtle earthiness, and some herbal notes. Fresh and bright, it's a fine summery red wine, and pairs well with a variety of foods.

20) 2017 Bocale Montefalco Sagrantino ($35-$40)
I enjoyed this wine at Il Ponte in Woburn. This Italian wine is produced from Sagrantino, an indigenous grape in the Umbrian region. It's considered to be one of the most tannic grapes. It possesses an alluring aroma, and on the palate it's complex and intriguing, with prominent tannins, which still are restrained so they don't overpower. Black and blue fruit notes, some floral elements, and a mineral backbone. Some spices notes, a touch of almost chocolate, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. Well balanced and delicious. An excellent food wine, especially with a steak or another hearty dish, like a meaty ragu. 

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Seven countries made the list this year, with Italy in first place, occupying six spots on the list. Lebanon is in second place with four spots and Greece and Spain are tied for third place, each occupying three spots on the list. In fourth place was Croatia with 2 wines and with a single spot each on the list, there's Portugal and France. As for wine types, the list is also broken down into 1 Sparkling, 1 Rosé,  4 Whites, 9 Reds, 4 Amber, and 1 Fortified Wines. 

I have other wine recommendations on my blog and you just have to search for them. If you have some of your own recommendations for excellent wines you've enjoyed in 2024, please add them to the comments.

A Tavola: An Expanded Restaurant & Delicious Dinner

If you live north of Boston, you don't need to travel to the North End for compelling Italian cuisine. Chef/Owner Joe Carli recently expanded the size of A Tavola, his excellent Italian restaurant in Winchester, and one of my Top Three Favorite Restaurants. On my last visit for dinner, I got to check out the new space, as well as enjoy another delicious meal. 

The entrance to the restaurant has been shifted to the new section, and you can see a couple of the new tables in that space. I'll also note that the outside patio seems to have expanded a bit as well, and was busy on the night of my visit.

On the right wall of the new space, there are more dining tables, expanding the seating capacity of the restaurant. 

There's also a new bar in this space, which has a special wine bar menu as well. A cool place to stop by for a cocktail or glass of wine while enjoying a few appetizers. 

The main dining room is slightly different, with the removal of the hostess station, and the addition of a wine refrigerator. 

The chef's counter seats are still there, where you can sit in front of the kitchen and watch all of the culinary action. The new space is a welcome addition, especially the small bar, and now A Tavola can accommodate even more diners. However, despite the expansion, it still possesses an intimate and welcoming vibe.

We began the dinner, opting for a Grinta Spritz ($17), a different take on an Aperol Spritz, which is made with Grinta Amaro, lemon, and Prosecco. Grinta is a bitter Italian liqueur, made from Genepy, Rhubarb, Juniper, Gentianella, Gentian, Yarrow, Peppermint, Quassium and Chamomile. It was a tasty cocktail, refreshing and possessing a complex and intriguing taste.

We also selected a bottle of 2019 Palladino Nebbiolo d'Alba ($67), a bold wine, with complex and delicious notes of black fruits, roses, and earthiness. Moderate tannins, good acidity, and a lengthy finish. A fine choice.

A Special for the night were the Crispy Duck Wings, with a touch of Chef David's barbecue sauce, and accompanied by fried okra. A Tavola occasionally has these Duck Wings as a special, and I've been a fan of them since 2020. If they're available, I always order them because they are so delicious. on my current visit, they possessed a tasty crispy skin atop moist, tender and flavorful meat. The judicious application of the barbecue sauce was a nice addition, adding a touch of spice and smokiness. Highly recommended!

A Tavola often offers seasonal flatbreads as appetizers. The Corn Flatbread ($17) was made with grilled corn, scallions, mozzarella, queso fresco, and parmesan. The crispy, thin crust made a fine vehicle for the sweet and slightly smoky corn, with the addition of the salty cheeses. Definitely a fine summer dish. 

The Smoky Mozzarella Sticks ($18), were large cubes that were crispy fried and hickory & applewood smoked, sitting atop a basil pesto. A nice crunchy coating with plenty of gooey, and smoky cheese inside, all enhanced by the flavorful pesto sauce. 

For entrees, one of our choices was the Swordfish ($33), made with Italian Romano Beans, Vidalia onions, and a N'duja Sugo. The swordfish, which came from the Rocky Neck Fish Company, was moist and tender, cooked perfectly. The beans, onions and n'duja combined to create an interesting and tasty, lightly sweet and bold & spicy background for the swordfish. An excellent entree choice. 

We also had the Porcini Campanelle ($29), although unfortunately I failed to take a photo of it. It was made with grilled Kimball Fruit Farm sweet corn, oregano, toasted sourdough breadcrumbs, and whipped burrata. It was an ample and scrumptious pasta dish, and I've long said that Chef Carli is a wizard with pasta. The campanelle, which were a nice al dente, had an earthy touch to them from the mushrooms. The breadcrumbs added a nice crunchiness to the dish, the corn added sweetness, and the burrata a creamy touch. A well-balanced dish, I made to sure to finish the entire plate, and loved every forkful. Highly recommended!

During dessert, I went for the Barrel Aged Negroni ($17), made with Citadelle Gin, Campari, dry Vermouth, and Cointreau. A Tavola has three other barrel-aged cocktails too, including the Tequila Manhattan, Boulevardier, and Little Italy. The Negroni was intense, with a nice blend of bitter and herbal notes. A fine sipping cocktail, for enjoying after dinner. 

For Dessert, I ordered the Chocolate Chip Cookies, a dozen, which I've previously reviewed and enjoyed. You won't be able to eat all of them after dinner, but you just take the leftover cookies home and enjoy them later. Always a good choice.

A Special dessert was the Lemon Tart, with about three different lemon elements, and bursting with bright lemony flavors, combined with creamy and crunchy aspects. For any lemon lover, this is a perfect treat. 

As always, I highly recommend you dine at A Tavola and enjoy their excellent Italian cuisine, wines, and cocktails. With their expansion, even more people can dine there, but it remains a more intimate locale. Chef Joe Carli and David Paige won't let you down! 

2021 FIOL Prosecco DOC Rosé Extra Dry: Standing Out in a Crowd

“Fiol” is a term of endearment for a young man from the 15th century Venetian Republic language. However, in the modern day, the term is more commonly used to denote a natural leader, or a friend who stands out in a crowd. Thus, this new Prosecco is intended to stand out amidst the many other Proseccos in the market. 

I've never been a big fan of Prosecco, as I've found too many to be overly sweet for my palate and too simple in their taste. However, I continue to taste them, seeking the stand outs which I know exist. 

The FIOL (FEE-yol) brand was founded by two childhood friends, Gian Luca Passi and Giovanni Ciani Bassetti, whose families have lived and farmed in Treviso, in the Veneto, for generations. When they were young, both men worked in harvests, drinking watered-down Prosecco at dinner. As adults, there careers took then different places, but they eventually came back together, founding FIOL in 2011. In 2019, they hired renowned enologist Marzio Pol to supervise production. With his connections, FIOL was also able to gain access to some of the best farmers in the region. 

Their objective is to create distinctive Prosecco, in an authentic style, to stand out among the too prevalent Proseccos which are homogeneous in style and taste. This sounded intriguing to me, so I was willing to give it a try and assess it for myself.

I recently received a media sample of the 2021 FIOL Prosecco DOC Rosé Extra Dry ($22), which has just become available in the U.S. A Prosecco DOC Rosé must be a blend of Glera and Pinot Nero (10-15%) and undergo a minimum 60-day secondary fermentation in tank (double the time for a “classic” Prosecco. It must also be vintage-dated. As a big fan of Sparkling Rosé, I was more excited to sample this wine. 

And it ended up being a stand-out to me. This FIOL Prosecco DOC Rosé was a blend of 85% Glera and 15% Pinot Nero, with an alcohol content of 11% and residual sugar of 13 g/L. The Charmat method was used to produce this sparkling wine. The wine possessed a fine pink color and a pleasant aroma of red fruits with citrus notes. On the palate, it was dry and crisp, with plenty of tiny bubbles and prominent flavors of strawberry and raspberry, with more subtle notes of apple, lemon and peach. It also possessed a fairly long, clean and pleasing finish. It was a well balanced and delicious sparkling wine, definitely different from many other Proseccos I've previously tasted. 

I drank the wine with dinner, including tomatoes & burrata, as well as shrimp scampi, and it went very well with it all. I was pleased that this Prosecco was dry and possessed a more complex taste. It would be great on its own, but pairs well with food too. A great choice for people seeking a Prosecco which differs from the rest of the crowd.

Tranquilo Prosecco: A Still Wine, Not Bubbly

Sparkling Prosecco is hugely popular, but have you ever tasted a Still Prosecco? Did you even know that Still Prosecco, known as Tranquilo, even existed?

In the U.S., maybe the first imports of Prosecco occurred around 1825. The Evening Post (NY), December 14, 1825, published an ad offering "Italian wines--A few cases of one and two dozen each, of the most esteemed qualities, Rifosio, Piccolit, and Prosecco,..." Unfortunately, the nature of the Prosecco was not provided. Was it still or sparkling? 

Then, there were almost no other mentions of Prosecco in the U.S. until 1934. The Philadelphia Inquirer (PA), February 21, 1934, also presented an ad for Italian wines, including "the celebrated Sparkling Prosecco." By this point, the Charmat method was in common use to produce Sparkling Prosecco. However, there wasn't another mention until The Journal News (NY), December 29, 1954, with a liquor store ad noting "Prosecco Carpene", a 26 oz. bottle for $3.49.  

A more descriptive article appeared in the Los Angeles Times (CA), November 20, 1960, in a section on Italian wines. "A 'champagne' town is Conegliano, in Veneto between Venice and the Alps." It continued, "Carpene Malvolti sparkling wines are made in Conegliano." It also stated, "Sparkling wines mature in the bottle rather than in oak casks or glass lined vats. The wine goes through three filtrations before bottling, then is pasteurized for two hours in freezing water; it matures for two years in a room with a temperature of 45 deg. Each bottle is gently revolved once a month." Finally, it was mentioned that, "The Prosecco has a sugar content of 3%, Extra Dry 1%, and Brut two-tenths of 1%." 

Still Prosecco was barely mentioned in U.S. newspapers until around 1984, although it wouldn't be  commonly mentioned until around 2003. 

Today, Sparkling Prosecco is hugely popular in the U.S. In 2022, 134 Million bottles of Prosecco were imported into the U.S., an increase of almost 6% over 2021. In comparison, Italy only consumed 120 Million bottles in 2022. Only about 5% of the total production of Prosecco is Tranquilo, and it's rarely exported. 

I recently received a sample of the VOGA Prosecco DOC Still ($14.99). Giovanni Pecora, the CEO of Enovation Brands, stated, "VOGA Prosecco Still is more than a line extension: rather, we are introducing a wine category that has long been enjoyed in Italy to the US.” They have created a new tagline for this still wine, “You’ve tasted the bubbles, now taste the wine.” 

The VOGA Prosecco DOC Still, with a 10.5% ABV,  is produced from 100% Glera, a grape which used to be called Prosecco until 2009. Glera commonly has high acidity and is known for a taste of white peaches. You've probably only tasted Glera in sparkling wines, and it's very rare to see it in still wines, especially on its own. It possessed a pleasant nose of citrus, especially pear and melon notes. On the palate, it was light, crisp and dry, with tasty flavors of pear, green apple and a touch of floral notes. It was an easy drinking wine, although it wasn't overly simple. A fine summer wine for patio sipping, or to accompany seafood and light chicken dishes. 

I certainly would like to try more Tranquilo Prosecco.