Showing posts with label Lebanon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lebanon. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 7, 2025

Top Twenty Wines of 2024

As 2025 approaches, it's time once again to reflect upon the past year, to remember and savor pleasant memories. Previously, I posted three of my food-related Favorites lists and it's now time to cover my Top Twenty Wines of 2024

This list includes wines that not only I enjoyed, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines that I've tasted this past year. This list also includes only wines I reviewed on my blog, although I tasted some excellent wines that I didn't write about. Those wines might be mentioned elsewhere in my Favorites lists. 

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I strongly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers would also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local region, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.


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I enjoyed this wine at a wine dinner at A Tavola in Winchester. Made in the Campania region, this wine is made from 100% Fiano, and the vineyards have limestone soils with a top layer of volcanic soil. The wine is aged for about four months in stainless steel, and will age well. It possesses an alluring aroma of citrus and floral notes and on the palate, it's complex, dry, and crisp. You may get notes of apple and lemon, floral notes and hazelnut, as well as a backbone of minerality. A lengthy, pleasing finish completes this well balanced and delicious wine.  

2) 2019 Palladino Langhe Nebbiolo D'Alba ($25)
At the same wine dinner at A Tavola, this was my favorite wine of the night. Fermented in stainless steel, it's then aged in Slavonian oak. It possessed an alluring aroma, a palate of complexity, and epitomized pure deliciousness. Such an intriguing melange of black cherry, raspberries and ripe plum, with hints of violets and mild spice. Restrained tannins, well-balanced, elegant and compelling. This is a wine to slowly savor over the course of an evening, enjoying how it evolves over time. 

3) 2022 C&C Lecareux L'Hydrophobe ($28)
Produced by Domaine Les Capréoles in the Brouilly appellation in Beaujolais, this wine was produced during a rough vintage where hail destroyed much of their vineyard. However, they persevered with what grapes they could save, some of their Gamay vines being over 80 years old. With an intriguing nose of cherries, violets, and subtle spices, on the palate, it was bright, fresh, fruity and complex with silky tannins. A delightful melange of ripe plum, black cherries, hints of forest, a touch of minerality, and even a subtle briny note. Well balanced, good acidity, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. You can easily enjoy this wine on its own, but it also will pair well with a variety of foods, from pizza to burgers. 

4) 2019 Sant'Or Santameriana Orange Wine ($25)
Santameriana is a traditional Greek grape, with a lengthy history, but it was devastated by phyloxera in the first half of the 20th century. Fortunately, a few vines have survived. This wine was made from 100% Santameriana which were fermented with native yeasts. The wine was amphora aged (the amphora being around 200 years old), with 20 days of skin contact. It was also unfined, unfiltered, with a very low level of sulfites, and is vegan. With a 13% ABV, the wine possessed a light orange color, with an intense, complex and intriguing nose of citrus, pear, dried fruits, and tea notes. On the palate, it was medium-bodied and elegant, with good acidity and a minerality streak. The flavors were complex, including orange, pear, honey, and dried fruit, with prominent tannins and a length, satisfying finish. It was also savory, not sweet, with subtle hints of herbs and spices. A fascinating wine which benefited from slowly sipping it over time, allowing it to evolve, presenting different flavors and aromas over time. 

5) 2018 Korak Stare Sorte Amber Wine ($60+)
I purchased this wine while I was in Croatia, and it's probably not available currently in the U.S. The Korak Family Estate is well known for its Sparkling Wines, but it also produces several different skin contact wines. This wine, inspired by "In Search of Lost Time" by Marcel Proust, is an intriguing field blend of grapes, many old vines, including Šipelj, Belina, Plavac Zuti, Rizvanac, Grasevina, Veltliner, Silvanac, and Traminac. The grapes were macerated for about 60 days, natural yeasts were used, there was no added sulfur, and it was only 12% ABV. Only 500 bottles were produced! This was an amazing wine, complex and well balanced, with such a depth of flavor. Tannic, herbal notes, subtle spices, dried fruits, minerality, and much more. Great acidity and a long, lingering finish. Each sip delights the palate, bringing something new with each taste. One of the more unique wines I tasted in Croatia. 

6) 2018 Clai Sv. Jakov Malvazija ($50+)
This was another wine I bought during my last Croatian trip, although it is available in some places in the U.S. This wine was produced from 100% Malvazija, which are certified organic, and the vineyard is about 42 years old. This wine is only bottled in excellent vintages, and the 2016 was the previous vintage bottled before the 2018. The grapes spend two months with skin contact, and later aged for two years in large oak barrels, ending with a 15% ABV. It possesses an alluring and complex aroma, and on the palate, the complexity remained, each sip bringing something new and exciting to my palate. Savory, delicious and compelling, a type of wine which is hard to easily describe. 

7) 2021 FIOL Prosecco DOC Rosé Extra Dry ($22)
I'm not usually a fan of Prosecco but this wine was a stand-out. A Prosecco DOC Rosé must be a blend of Glera and Pinot Nero (10-15%) and undergo a minimum 60-day secondary fermentation in tank (double the time for a “classic” Prosecco). It must also be vintage-dated. This wine was a blend of 85% Glera and 15% Pinot Nero, with an alcohol content of 11% and residual sugar of 13 g/L. The Charmat method was used to produce it. The wine possessed a fine pink color and a pleasant aroma of red fruits with citrus notes. On the palate, it was dry and crisp, with plenty of tiny bubbles and prominent flavors of strawberry and raspberry, with more subtle notes of apple, lemon and peach. It also possessed a fairly long, clean and pleasing finish. It was a well balanced and delicious sparkling wine. A great choice for people seeking a Prosecco which differs from the rest of the crowd. 

Again, I found another interesting Prosecco but this time it wasn't Sparkling. Were you aware that the Prosecco DOC includes Still wines, known as Tranquilo? It's not a style which is commonly available in the U.S. The VOGA Prosecco DOC Still, with a 10.5% ABV, is produced from 100% Glera, which commonly has high acidity and is known for a taste of white peaches. This wine possessed a pleasant nose of citrus, especially pear and melon notes. On the palate, it was light, crisp and dry, with tasty flavors of pear, green apple and a touch of floral notes. It was an easy drinking wine, although it wasn't overly simple. A fine summer wine for patio sipping, or to accompany seafood and light chicken dishes.

9) 2023 Parajes del Valle Bobal Ecologia Rosado ($16-$18)
This Spanish Rosé is made from 100% Bobal, organically grown, from the Manchuelo DOP, in high-elevation vineyards, which average 45 years old, with solids rich in clay and limestone. The Bobal grapes are pressed, without maceration, and fermented with native yeasts in concrete. The wine is then aged in concrete tanks until bottling. With a 12% ABV, the Rosé has a darker pink color with an alluring nose of red fruits with subtle herbal notes. On the palate, it's dry and crisp, with delicious and complex flavors of raspberry, cherry, and strawberries and more subtle citrus and melon flavors. It's also accented with intriguing herbal notes, a touch of minerality, and possesses a lengthy and pleasing finish. An excellent Rosé, it works well on its own during summer weather but also is very food friendly, doing well with seafood. 

10) The 2022 Mersel Red Velvet ($25)
This Lebanese wine is produced from 100% Cinsault, from ten year old organic vines located at Deir El Ahmar in the Bekaa Valley, at an altitude of about 1,200m. With native yeasts, it was fermented in a sealed concrete tank and eventually underwent malolactic fermentation too. The wine was also unfiltered and unfined. Even though it's a red wine, the winery recommends that it be served chilled, as you would a white wine, and I followed their suggestion. With a 13% ABV, the Red Velvet had a pleasant smell of red fruits with a touch of spice, and on the palate, it was light-bodied, dry, and with a hint of spritz. The flavors included strawberry, cherry, cranberry with subtle spice notes. Definitely a nice summer wine, especially with the chill to the wine. Easy drinking, but not overly simple. Would be a good wine with barbecue or even just pizza. 

11) 2016 Cara Nord Trepat ($17)
This Spanish red wine is produced from Trepat, an indigenous grape. This wine was fermented in a stainless steel tank, and then aged for an additional ten months in the tank, seeing no oak aging. With a 12.5% ABV, the wine is a dark red, almost purple color, with a pleasant nose of red fruits and the hint of herbs. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied and complex, with plenty of flavors of cherry, strawberry and ripe plum, with herbal accents and subtle earthy notes. A moderately long and satisfying finish. Interesting and delicious, indicative of the potential of Trepat. This would be an excellent wine with grilled meats or even just pizza. 

12) Bodegas 501 Gades Amontillado Viejisimo VORS Sherry ($50-$65)
This winery no longer exists, so wine could be difficult to find. This is a VORS Amontillado, a wine that must average at least 30 years old, but this wine is likely even older. An Amontillado is a type of sherry which undergoes both biological and oxidative aging. This Amontillado possessed a light amber color, with an alluring aroma. On the palate, it was dry and complex, with harmonious flavors of salted nuts, caramel, mild spices, and a touch of tobacco. It also possessed a lengthy and intriguing finish, providing much pleasure. As I slowly sipped the wine over the course of the evening, the wine evolved in the glass, with other complex flavors seem to peek out at times, making this a wine to savor slowly over time, relishing its fascinating profile. A superb sherry! 

13) 2019 Achados e Perdidos Codega do Larinho Vinho Branco ($12)
An excellent example of a value wine. This Portuguese white wine is made from 100% Côdega do Larinho, a rare, indigenous grape, primarily found in the Douro and Tras-os-Montes regions. It's a pale-skinned grape which is aromatic and floral, with notes of citrus and tropical fruit. It often has low acidity, so tends to be blended with higher acidity grapes. In the past, the grapes were often used in field blends for white Port. The grapes for this wine come from a 100-year old vineyard, which is organically farmed, on black schists soils with some granitic sands. During production, there's minimal skin contact and fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks, using native yeasts. The wine, with a 12% ABV, is then aged in the bottle for a year. Despite the grape commonly said to have low acidity, this wine proves exceptions exist. It actually possesses a crisp acidity, a nicely balanced wine, and is a sheer pleasure to drink. Notes of tart lemon, ripe peach and juicy pineapple with a backbone of minerality. A pleasing, lengthy finish.

14) 2022 Troupis Hoof & Lur Moschofilero ($20-$25)
A Greek wine made from 100% Moschofilero, an indigenous grape whose history probably extends back to antiquity. It's a pink-skinned, aromatic white grape, and used in White, Rosé and Sparkling wines. The winery states that this wine is "an homage to the wines native to the high plateau of Mantinia for millennia." The Moschofilero grapes spent three months on the skins, and then were fermented, with wild yeasts, in terra cotta spheres, with stirring of the lees. The wine wasn't fined or filtered, and also is vegan. This is supposed to be the style of wine that their parents and grandparents once enjoyed. The color of this wine is a dark blood orange, the hue from the pink grape skins more than evident. It's much darker than many other amber colored, skin-contact wines. You might almost think it were a light red wine. The aromas are enticing, an intriguing blend of citrus and spice. And on the palate, there's a complex blend of flavors, bright citrus, red berries, spice, and touches of honey. Crisp acidity, moderate tannins, a rich mouthfeel and a lengthy, pleasing finish. Overall, an intriguing and tasty wine which will appeal to adventurous wine lovers.

15) 2021 Chateau Musar Levantine De Musar ($35)
This Lebanese wine is produced from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, and Tempranillo. The winery has been growing Tempranillo for about 12 years, having planted it due to the effects of climate change. Another effect is that they now harvest about two weeks earlier than they once did. It took about three months to come up with the name of this wine, and the first vintage was in 2016. This is a small production wine, only about 10% of the production level of the Chateau Musar Jeune Red. This unoaked wine is silky smooth, with low tannins, and delicious flavors of red and black fruit, and subtle spice notes. If you enjoy Spanish reds, you will likely enjoy this wine.  

16) 1997 Chateau Musar Blanc ($80)
This Lebanese white wine is one of the flagship wines of this acclaimed winery. The Blanc is a blend of 75% Obeideh and 25% Merwah, two indigneous grapes from organic vineyards, which are 100-120 years old. This vintage possessed a darker, more amber color, and also possessed a fuller body, than younger vintages. It was elegant and ethereal, with complex, but more subtle flavors of fruit, spice, honey, caramel and herbs. Each sip brought new flavors to mind, and I was mesmerized by the quality of this wine and how well it had aged. It's a wine that must be experienced, and for which words cannot do proper justice. 

17) 1997 Chateau Musar Rouge ($160):
This Lebanese red wine is the other flagship wine of this acclaimed winery. It is produced from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, and Carignan (from organic vineyards), which underwent a lengthy fermentation in cement vats before aging in French oak for a year. The wine is then typically released 7 years after the harvest. I enjoyed this wine at a special dinner at Prezza, paired with luscious Lamb Chops. It was an amazing vintage, still with plenty of intriguing fruit flavors and plenty of acidity. It was aromatic and ethereal, complex and intriguing. Another wine that changes over time in the glass, and which will cause you to consider the various flavors that evolve over time. It's another wine that must be experienced, and for which words cannot do proper justice. 

18) 2012 Ippolito 1845 Ripe del Falco Ciro Riserva ($24) 
I ordered this wine at the Sogno Restaurant in Woburn. This Italian wine, from the Calabrian region, is produced from 100% Gaglioppo grapes from a 40+ year old vineyard. I found it to be complex and interesting, with an intense aroma and a pleasing taste of red and black fruits, spice notes and some subtle herbal notes. Good acidity, restrained tannins and a lengthy and satisfying finish. It was an excellent food wine and I'll be seeking out this wine to purchase at retail. 

19) 2022 Thymiopoulos Xinomavro Young Vines ($20). 
This Greek wine is produced from 100% Xynomavro, an indigenous grape whose name roughly translates as "acid-black." Xinomavro is the second most planted red grape in Greece. The grape is most often compared to Nebbiolo (and sometimes Burgundy), and tends to possess strong tannins and high acidity, meaning it also can age very well. As the wine ages, it starts to lose its red fruit flavors and begins to acquire savory notes, especially tomato and olive. This wine presented delicious juicy red fruit flavors, accented by good acidity, a subtle earthiness, and some herbal notes. Fresh and bright, it's a fine summery red wine, and pairs well with a variety of foods.

20) 2017 Bocale Montefalco Sagrantino ($35-$40)
I enjoyed this wine at Il Ponte in Woburn. This Italian wine is produced from Sagrantino, an indigenous grape in the Umbrian region. It's considered to be one of the most tannic grapes. It possesses an alluring aroma, and on the palate it's complex and intriguing, with prominent tannins, which still are restrained so they don't overpower. Black and blue fruit notes, some floral elements, and a mineral backbone. Some spices notes, a touch of almost chocolate, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. Well balanced and delicious. An excellent food wine, especially with a steak or another hearty dish, like a meaty ragu. 

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Seven countries made the list this year, with Italy in first place, occupying six spots on the list. Lebanon is in second place with four spots and Greece and Spain are tied for third place, each occupying three spots on the list. In fourth place was Croatia with 2 wines and with a single spot each on the list, there's Portugal and France. As for wine types, the list is also broken down into 1 Sparkling, 1 Rosé,  4 Whites, 9 Reds, 4 Amber, and 1 Fortified Wines. 

I have other wine recommendations on my blog and you just have to search for them. If you have some of your own recommendations for excellent wines you've enjoyed in 2024, please add them to the comments.

Wednesday, October 30, 2024

Chateau Musar of Lebanon: Quality Wines of Elegance & Complexity

In the U.S., the best known winery in Lebanon is Chateau Musar, and the quality of their wines is an excellent reason for their renown. I've been a fan of their wines for over fifteen years, and was fortunate last week to attend a trade seminar for those wines, presided by Marc Hochar, one of the third-generation owners of Chateau Musar.   

I'll initially note that the logo above has a motto in Latin, "Labor Omnia Vincit," which translates as "work conquers all." The phrase is adapted from a line in Virgil's Georgics, "Labor omnia vicit / improbus", which roughly translates as "steady work overcomes all things." This motto is also the motto of the state of Oklahoma.  

The cultivation of vineyards and the production of wine extends back in Lebanese history about 7000 years, to the time of the ancient Phoenicians. They created vineyards in the Bekaa Valley, and sold their wines, some which acquired great fame, to many different countries in the Mediterranean region. Like modern-day Phoenician, a few importers have brought Lebanese wines to the U.S. 

Around the 2nd century A.D., a great Temple to Bacchus, the Roman god of wine, was constructed by the Romans in the ancient city of Baalbek, later called Heliopolis by Alexander the Great. The temple is huge: about 200 feet long, 100 feet wide and nearly 100 feet high. The temple contains numerous depictions of vines and the enjoyment of wine. 

Unfortunately, in the 7th century, when Lebanon was conquered by the Islamic Caliphate, wine production suffered, although Christians were still permitted to produce wine for religious purposes. It wouldn't be until the 19th century that the modern wine industry rose in Lebanon, spurred on by Jesuits and the French. A few of the wineries which were established in the late 19th century still exist.

The country of Lebanon is about 120 miles long and 30 miles wide, bordered by Syria, Israel, and the Mediterranean Sea. It has a population of nearly 6 Million people. There are two main mountain ranges, the Anti-Lebanon Range (or Eastern Lebanon Range) and the Mount Lebanon Range, and between the two is the Bekaa Valley, an area perfect for viticulture. In the Anti-Lebanon range, the highest point is Mount Hebron

Marc stated that Lebanon doesn't fall under the categories of either Old World or New World wines. Instead, it's part of the Ancient World wines, similar to other countries such as Georgia, Turkey and Armenia. Almost thirty years ago, in 1996, there were only about 40 wineries in Lebanon, but over twenty years later, in 2020, the number doubled to about 80 wineries. However, please note that these numbers are tentative, as the wine industry lacks an official, regulatory body. Whatever the actual number of wineries, only a handful currently export their wines to the U.S.   

The photo above is of Marc Hochar, one of the owners of Chateau Musar, and he led the seminar and wine tasting, providing much fascinating information. He was personable and knowledgeable, humorous and easy going. He makes an excellent ambassador for the wines of Chateau Musar.  

In 1930, Gaston Hochar, who was only twenty years old, planted vineyards in the Bekaa Valley and founded Chateau Musar, inspired by his recent travels to Bordeaux. He began wine making in the basement of an old convent owned by a relative. Serge Hochar, his eldest son, would eventually take over the control and management of the winery in 1959, and Serge eventually created the Chateau Musar Rouge style. Serge had two sons, Gaston and Marc. Unfortunately, due to the civil war in Lebanon (1975-1990), much of the family moved, eventually settling in Paris in 1983. Marc got involved in investment banking, and spent about twenty years in that career, before deciding to return to Lebanon and get involved in the winery in 2010.

From the map above, you can see the location of Musar's vineyards and their winery. All of the vineyards are in the southern section of the Bekaa valley, where the climate is quite dry and there are about 300 days of sun each year. Because of the heat, the vines are grown at higher altitudes, with cool nights helping to balance the day time heat. The red grapes are grown at about 3000 feet above sea level, while the white grapes are grown even higher. The soils are mostly clay or gravel with limestone bedrock. The vineyards are all bush wines, an old pruning style, so all of the work in the vineyards must be done by hand. 

Lebanon lacks an appellation system, except the general "Lebanon" designation, so wine makers can plant any grape they desire. As for red grapes, Musar grows Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Carignan, Syrah, Tempranillo and Grenache. Cinsault has been grown in Lebanon since the 1850s, when Jesuit monks planted it in the Bekaa Valley. Carignan also seems to have been first planted in the 19th century in Lebanon. French winemakers had previously planted grapes in Algeria, so it was easy for them to start planting French grapes in Lebanon as well. There don't appear to be any indigenous red grapes still existent in Lebanon. The main white grapes Musar uses are both indigenous Lebanese grapes: Obeideh and Merwah, some of which are old vines, having been planted in 1920. 

As the winery is near the Mediterranean coast, it can take about three hours to transport grapes from the vineyards to the winery, although in 1984, there were significant problems, causing transport to take a lengthier path, and it took five days to reach the winery. The Musar winemaking philosophy is one of non-intervention as they believe they "tend" to their wines as they develop, rather than "make" them. It is more a matter of "timing" not "making." They use natural yeasts and don't use any "man-made additions." 

Marc also stated that "wine making is a gamble," as you never know what you will get. He continued that there aren't bad vintages, just  "different vintages," and sometimes it may take years for a more difficult vintage to get good. As for the current vintage, despite the element of war in the region, they had no difficulties with the harvest or getting the grapes to the winery. The only potential problem that might arise could be difficulty in transporting the finished wines out of the port.

Marc started the seminar with an intriguing story about why Musar wines may taste better on a sunny day rather than a rainy day. He noted that Burgundy wines can taste very good on rainy days. So why the difference? At one time, Marc tasted his wines on a Flower Day according to the Biodynamic calendar, when his wines should have been expected to show well. However, the wines didn't taste as good as they should have tasted. On a Root Day, when his wines were supposed to show poorly, they actually tasted excellent. He continued to monitor the Biodynamic calendar with his tastings but his wines didn't conform to those expectations. 

Instead, Marc found that the Musar wines generally tasted better on sunny days rather than rainy ones. Marc developed his own theory about this phenomenon. He stated that Musar makes more natural wines, from organic vineyards, and that wine is alive, and continues to evolve in the bottle and glass. If plants, like grape vines, are alive, they may possess a memory and even feelings, and that memory may be passed onto the wine. The plants may "recall" the 300 days of sunshine and how it made them grow so well, so the wine may "embrace" sunny days, presenting their best selves. In Burgundy, they tend to have more rain, so those wines may also present their best selves on rainy days.  

For all of their red wines, Chateau Musar uses a blend of three grapes, and two are always the same: Cabernet Sauvignon and Cinsault. Cabernet is seen as masculine, opaque, tannic and with dark red berries. The younger wines can be harsh because of their tannins. On the other hand, Cinsault is more feminine and silky, with low tannins and lighter red berries. They are like two extremes which then balance each other out, complimenting each other. Marc stated that few other wineries make such a blend of Cabernet and Cinsault.  

The objective of Musar is to "build the balance of the wine," almost like using Lego building blocks. The third grape varies in each specific red label. All of the grapes are fermented separately, and then will be blended together, after a period of 6-24 months. I'll also note that Musar relies on low yields in the vineyards as well. 

In 1977, Serge Hochar created the blend for their top red wine, the Chateau Musar Rouge. This was Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carignan, and that blend has not changed. For this wine, the grapes are fermented in cement and then racked after six months. They are then aged in mostly used French oak for about a year. After three years, the wines are blended and aged for an additional 3-4 years in the bottles, with each Rouge generally released 7 years after the harvest.

Volatile acidity (VA) basically is a measure of a wine's gaseous acids, and it's considered a flaw by numerous winemakers and wine lovers, although sometimes it depends on the amount of VA in a wine. High amounts of VA can produce off odors, and some people are sensitive to even small amounts of VA. Natural wines tend to have higher amounts of VA than other wines. Marc stated that VA is an important element of Musar wines, that when you smell their wines, the VA jumps out of the glass. Without VA, the wine has no life, no vibrancy. Personally, I haven't found the VA in any of the Musar wines I've tasted to be off putting and I haven't heard complaints from my wine lover friends about VA in the Musar wines. 

Marc noted that the Chateau Musar wines are often compared to Bordeaux, Rhone and Burgundy wines, dependent on the age of the wines. He added that there are basically 3 seasons for their wines, based on their age. First, the Spring wines are young wines, aged 6-10 years, and possess fresh fruit flavors. Second, there are the Summer wines, aged 12-15 years, and as the fruit gets baked by the sun, you get more stewed fruit flavors, more concentration. Finally, there are the Autumn wines, the older ones, where the "fruit goes into the earth," and these wines show more earthy, mushroom, and barnyard flavors.

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Now, let's take a brief detour into the early history of Chateau Musar in the U.S. Maybe the first mention of Chateau Musar in the newspapers was in the Chicago Daily News (IL), March 9, 1963. In an article about Beirut, it was briefly noted, “Lebanon does produce tasty wines, particularly the red Sahra and Chateau Musar.” At that time, the Musar wines were not yet available in the U.S. so this brief mention probably didn't spur much interest in the wines.   

Ten years later, it appears that the Musar wines had finally become available in the U.S., although it's possible they were primarily found in Texas at this point. The Houston Chronicle (TX), November 8, 1973, published a column about the Winetasters, a local group of wine lovers who met once a month to taste and rate inexpensive wines for value. At a recent tasting, they had sampled and rated three Musar wines, two whites and a red. Their main concern seemed to be the aromas of these wines.

First, the non-vintage Chateau Musar White Cuvee Reserve (about $4.29) received 2 Good, 4 Fair, and 1 Poor ratings. It was noted, “It had a strong somewhat medicinal nose totally unrelated to the taste of the wine.” Second, the 1966 Chateau Musar White Grand Cru (about $4) received 3 Good, 3 Fair, and 1 Poor ratings. It was said, “Again, the nose (or aroma) had nothing to do with the taste of the wine. It was unusually flowery and a darker gold than the first one.” One of the tasters also described it as “more like a French Graves than anything else.” Third, the 1966 Chateau Musar Red Grand Cru (about $4) received 4 Good, 2 Fair, and 1 Poor ratings. It was also stated, “Aromatic nose. Not unacceptable, just odd.” 

Five months later, the Houston Chronicle (TX), April 18, 1974, published another column about the Winetasters. They had conducted a tasting with numerous Chianti wines, but also blind tasted three other wines, including a Bordeaux and the 1966 Chateau Musar Red. As for the Musar, it was stated that, “Several Winetasters thought it was the best wine we had all evening.” No issue with its aroma was noted, and it seemed to appeal even more than at the prior tasting. Bottle variation might have played a role in their prior wine tasting.

The first advertisement for Chateau Musar may have appeared in the Houston Post (TX), June 14, 1974. In a large liquor store ad, it was mentioned that the 1966 Chateau Musar was "a Red Bordeaux Type Wine from Lebanon" and had received "Rave Reviews." The wine regularly sold for $3.59, but was on sale for $2.98. In comparison, the ad also mentioned a few other wines, including: Mateus Rose ($1.75), Baron Philippe de Rothschild Mouton Cadet ($2.50) and Harvey's Bristol Cream ($4.75).

The Express-News (TX), April 2, 1976, had a liquor store ad mentioning “Chateau Musar Rubis,” a Rosé from Lebanon, for $1.46. 

The first non-Texas advertisement was in the Chicago Tribune (IL), March 2, 1978. In a liquor store ad, it was noted you could save 50% on the Chateau Musar Grand Cru 1966 or 1970. It now cost only $1.99, rather than the usual price of $3.98. The ad also stated, “If you like French Bordeaux & Burgundy, you’ll love Chateau Musar.” A few years then passed without any other newspaper mentions of Musar wines. 

A lengthy, and very positive, article about Chateau Musar then appeared in the Winston-Salem Journal (NC), April 2, 1981. Titled, “Cabernet From Lebanon Has Astonishing Quality,” and from the New York Times News Service, the writer discussed a wine he had blind tasted at a Manhattan restaurant. He stated, "The wine was dark red, almost black, and rich with the fruit of the cabernet sauvignon grape, conveying a flavor intensity characteristic of the best Bordeaux or perhaps one of the great California estates where the Cabernet also achieves superb quality." The writer also felt that the wine was likely from Napa, maybe the 1970 or 1974 vintages.

He and the other tasters were shocked to learn the wine was actually the 1970 Chateau Musar. He then added, "To discover a cabernet of such quality from Lebanon was astonishing so I set out to learn more about it." The article also noted that Bacchus Selections, an importer and distributor, had brought the Musar wines into the U.S. but stopped doing so about a year ago. Then, Jack Callaghan, a former Bacchus representative, left the company a year ago and brought the Musar inventory with him. Callaghan opened a Wine Shop at 345 Lexington Avenue, selling the 1972 Musar ($5.99) and the 1975 Musar ($3.69). 

The writer sought out additional vintages of Musar, eventually acquiring the 1970, 1969, 1967 and 1964 vintages. He then put them into a blind tasting against two 2 well known California Cabernets and two famous Bordeaux wineries. The California wines included the 1975 Robert Mondavi ($11.99) and 1976 Clos du Val ($9.65) while the Bordeaux included the 1966 Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste and 1970 Chateau Lascombes (both which sell for $25-$50). The writer concluded, "Clearly the best was the 1964 Musar which was fruity, rich, tannic and textured, with a classic Bordeaux bouquet of black currants.” 

This article was also reprinted in various newspapers across the country including in California, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Maryland, Oregon, South Carolina, and Texas. So, people all over the country learned about the quality of Chateau Musar wines, and it's very likely it garnered much interest from wine lovers, especially those keen to determine for themselves how the Musar wines held up against California Cabernet and French Bordeaux. This might have been the major breakthrough for Chateau Musar wines in the U.S.

The Daily Register (NJ), December 2, 1981, had this advertisement for the 1975 Chateau Musar, noting it was "an excellent red bordeaux style wine that has won many medals. This wine is equal to the great growths of bordeaux." The price is about double from that mentioned in the above April 1981 article. Why had the price jumped so high in nine months? An answer came in another newspaper article.

The Citizen Register (NY), January 20, 1982, provided more raves about the wines of Chateau Musar. It stated, “A littler less than a year ago, before a very successful promotion campaign began, vintages such as 1972 could be found gathering dust on store shelves for about $6. No more; they’ve been discovered and I’ve been reading praises for them locally and in foreign journals for several months now.” The article continued, “With that praise has come a tightening of supply—most are on allocation-and increased prices. You might find the 1975 Musar, a full-bodied, strong finishing red much like a Pomerol, in stores at $7.50, and the 1972, a lighter, more elegant wine at about $10.” Thus, its popularity was the reason for the higher price in the December 1981 liquor ad. 

Finally, the article concluded, “Still, the question is, why a Lebanese wine, and the answer is that the combination of soil, climate, dedication and skill have produced a quality wine in an unlikely place.”

Now, onto some notes about the various Musar wines I tasted during the seminar. Marc noted that we would be tasting the different vintages in order of younger to older wines, so that the older wines wouldn't overpower the subtleness of the younger wines. He also mentioned that you can drink Musar wines when they are young, as they aren't too bold, but that their complexity builds over time so they are worth storing away as well. 

Overall, I found the Musar wines to generally be elegant and complex, approachable and ready to drink upon release. However, I experienced some of the aged Musar wines, and they evidenced the great potential of these wines if you can lay them down for a number of years. These are wines which should greatly appeal to most wine lovers, and should encourage you to also seek out other wines from Lebanon. 

We began the tasting with their three "Jeune" wines, which are their "young" and least expensive wines (about $27-$30). They are all unoaked and produced to be fruit-forward, accessible and easy drinking wines. 

The 2022 Musar Jeune Rosé is produced from a blend of Cinsault and Mourvèdre, using the saignée method. The wine is fermented in cement lined vats and released about a year after the harvest. It was a pale pink color, with a fruity aroma, and on the palate it was crisp and dry, with pleasant red fruit flavors and a nice finish. Easy drinking on its own or with paired with food.

The 2022 Musar Jeune Blanc is produced from a blend of Viognier, Vermentino, and Chardonnay. It was fermented in cement lined vats and released about a year after the harvest. With a light golden color, it was aromatic and on the palate it was dry and crisp, with an intriguing and complex blend of flavors, including apple, pear, floral notes and subtle spices. With a lengthy finish, this wine was delicious. This was my favorite of the three Jeune wines.  

The 2021 Musar Jeune Rouge is produced from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, and Syrah. The Syrah first became the third grape in this wine in 2005. This dark colored wine has a deeper nose of black fruits and spice. On the palate, it is fuller bodied, with noticeable but restrained tannins, and flavor of black cherry, raspberry and plum, accented by spice notes, especially on the moderately long finish. This is a wine best paired with meat or other hearty dishes.  

We then moved onto the 2021 Levantine De Musar (about $35), which is produced from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, and Tempranillo. They have been growing Tempranillo for about 12 years, having planted it due to the effects of climate change. Another effect is that they now harvest about two weeks earlier than they once did. It took about three months to come up with the name of this wine, and the first vintage was in 2016. This is a small production wine, only about 10% of the production level of the Musar Jeune Red. This unoaked wine is silky smooth, with low tannins, and delicious flavors of red and black fruit, and subtle spice notes. If you enjoy Spanish reds, you will likely enjoy this wine. I very much enjoyed the Levantine, and think it would work well as a Thanksgiving wine.  

The 2020 Hochar Pere Et Fils (about $45) is produced from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, and Grenache. It was fermented in cement vats and then aged in French oak. It's only released every four years. It's a bigger wine than the Levantine, with stronger tannins, but they are far from overpowering. It's a balanced wine, with dominant black fruit flavors, a spicy element, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. This is a wine you should probably pair with meat or other hearty dishes.   

We then moved onto four vintages of their flagship wine, the Chateau Musar Rouge, which is produced from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, and Carignan (from organic vineyards). Robert Parker once reviewed the 1995 Chateau Musar Rouge, awarding it only 83 points. However, the 1995 vintage is very popular with wine lovers and sells out each time it is made available. Marc stated he feels that the Musar wines are too elegant, and not bold enough, for Parker's tastes.  

The 2017 Chateau Musar Rouge (about $65-$75) underwent a lengthy fermentation in cement vats before aging in French oak for a year. The wine is then typically released 7 years after the harvest. With an alluring aroma, this wine is silky and elegant, with mild tannins, and a complex melange of flavors, including both red and black fruits (like black cherry and plum), subtle spices, and hints of herbs. Well balanced, with a lengthy and pleasing finish, it may remind you of a fine Bordeaux. It's very approachable and delicious, and you could even enjoy it on its own, although it would pair well with a variety of foods. This wine has an excellent aging potential, although it's ready to drink now. 

The 2012 Chateau Musar Rouge is from an outlier of a vintage, and possesses more residual sugar than normal, about 5+ grams. They now ensure that their wines have no more than about 3 grams of residual sugar. Thus, this wine will tend to taste younger than its actual age, and as it ages, it will become more balanced and likely taste similar in some respects to an Amarone. I found this wine to be smooth and elegant, with a bit less juiciness in the fruit flavors, and it was also very approachable with a lengthy finish. There was a touch more sweetness to the wine, but it was still basically dry.  

The 2004 Chateau Musar Rouge was a more elegant and ethereal wine with much complexity and subtleties. Each sip seemed to bring something new to my palate. The fruit was still bright and there was so much life still in this wine. It was pure silk, well-balanced, and with a nearly endless and satisfying finish. Words cannot properly capture the magic of this wine. Highly recommended!   

The 1998 Chateau Musar Rouge possessed a hint of an almost musty aroma, and was a bolder wine, with much less fruit and more spice and earthy notes. It possessed a very light red color, almost translucent, and reminded me a bit of older Burgundy. It's become a very different wine than the other Rouge vintages. This shows the evolution of the Rouge wines, how they often seem to start tasting more like a Bordeaux and then move toward a Rhone-style wine or finally a Burgundy. This was an interesting wine, but my personal preference was still the 2004 vintage.   

We next sampled the 2018 Chateau Musar Rosé (about $65), an intriguing blend of 57% Obaideh, 40% Merwah, and 3% Cinsault. Marc called it a "white wine in disguise" and the tiny amount of Cinsault in this wine certainly brings truth to that claim. The grapes were co-pressed and co-fermented, not using the saignée method, and then the wine was finished in older French oak. They first started making this Rosé in 1994, and produce it every other year. It looks like a white wine, and drinks like a white wine as well. It's crisp and dry, elegant and complex with notes of citrus and peaches, hints of salted nuts and subtle spices. It's delicious, with a lingering finish, and can age very well with Marc stating it would only get better with time. You can see that their current vintage is already 6 years old. Marc also recommended that you enjoy this wine with food. 

Then, we moved onto two vintages of the Chateau Musar Blanc. The Blanc is a blend of 75% Obeideh and 25% Merwah, from organic vineyards, which are 100-120 years old, located at an altitude of about 4500 feet in the eastern Anti-Lebanon mountains. The vines also possess their original root stock, untouched by phylloxera, probably due to their remoteness. The grapes are late ripeners, so they are harvested in late September or early October. It was originally believed that Obeideh might be a clone of Chardonnay, and Merwah might be a clone of Semillon. However, DNA testing has determined that both are indigenous to Lebanon, with no connection Chardonnay or Semillon. Obeideh is said to be waxy and textural while the Merwah is said to be honeyed and floral. 

The Blanc is aged for 9 months in French oak barriques, and then aged in the bottled for another 6 years before release. The Blanc has been described as a "dry Sauternes" or "mature white Graves." Marc described the Blanc as a "nose wine," because so much is going on with its aroma and smells. You can sit, smelling the wines, and simply enjoy the aromas without even tasting the wine.  

The 2016 Chateau Musar Blanc ($60-$70), with a fine golden color, is aromatic, with an alluring and complex nose. You definitely could sit for a time just enjoying the aroma. On the palate, it's crisp and dry, complex and intriguing, with a melange of flavors including lemon, apricot, almonds, spice and herbal elements. Once again, this is the type of wine which is difficult to put into words. It's a more unique wine that is sure to interest wine lovers.  

The 1997 Chateau Musar Blanc possessed a darker, more amber color, and also possessed a fuller body. It was elegant and ethereal, with complex, but more subtle flavors of fruit, spice, honey, caramel and herbs. Each sip brought new flavors to mind, and I was mesmerized by the quality of this wine and how well it had aged. It's a wine that must be experienced, and for which words cannot do proper justice. Highly recommended! And I bought a bottle of this wine the next day after the seminar. 


We finished the tasting with the L'Arack de Musar ($65-$70), a traditional Lebanese spirit. It begins with grape alcohol (from red or white grapes which weren't used to make wine), in a solera system, and aged for an average of five years. It takes about five bottles of wine to make a single bottle of arak. The alcohol is then distilled three times, and then it undergoes a fourth distillation which includes anise seeds (not anise flavoring). The anise seeds come from Syria, as that is the source of the best anise. It's then placed into a terracotta amphora for a year. Musar has been making Arak for about 40-50 years. 

I tasted some of the Arak on its own, which is a clear spirit, and tasted smooth and sweet, with a prominent taste of anise (reminding me of Anisette cookies). The alcohol is noticeable, but it's not overly strong. Generally in Lebanon, they add water to their arak, which turns it a milky color and reduces the sense of alcohol. You can also use arak in cocktails, and Marc stated that a Sazerac would be a good choice.  

Seek out the wines of Chateau Musar and experience the terroir of Lebanon. With the holidays coming, now is the time to splurge on these wines, for yourself or for gifts. At Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose, where I work, we carry several of the Chateau Musar wines, including the Levantine de Musar, Chateau Musar Rouge, and Chateau Musar Blanc. So, come by the store to see me and I'll show you the Musar wines we have available.

Monday, September 9, 2024

A New Wine Shop in Melrose: Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet

There's a new wine shop in Melrose.....

About 15 years ago, Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet, owned and operated by Rebecca & Gene Beraldi, was established in Melrose, and I worked there for 12 of those years. In mid-August, the Beraldis sold the store, which is now known as Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet. I have remained as an employee at the new store. 

The new owners, Vijay, Andy, Brian and Puja, are very sincere people and they intend the shop to be an artisan wine, beer and spirits shop. They are not seeking to turn it into a package store or convenience store. They have been expanding the available selections on a variety of levels. Obviously, with the new ownership, there have been changes at the wine shop, but they have largely been positive, and the owners have been very open to suggestions about such changes. 

For example, one of the minor changes is that Rosé wines are now stocked in the chiller, which I believe is an excellent idea. This has been met with positive feedback from many customers. Another change is that numerous different beers, especially IPAs, are now stocked in the chillers, although many old favorites are still stocked, and that new beer selection has also been met with raves from the beer customers. 

A variety of new wine selections have also been added, with many more coming in the next few months, including wines from Portugal, Georgia, Greece, Lebanon, Moldova, Croatia, and more. Customers will have many intriguing choices in what wines to purchase. I've had some input in the new wines and Sakes that have been brought in, such as the Ramos Pinto Ports, including their amazing 20 Year Old Tawny. Another example is that I also suggested wines from Lebanon, from the famed Chateau Musar (pictured above). Come see me at the store and I'll show you all of the new wines.

Chartreuse, the acclaimed liqueur made by Carthusian monks, is also now available at the shop. As devotees of this spirit know, there has been a shortage of Charteuse for several years, and it has been difficult to find in local shops. So, if you're interested in this French herbal liqueur, you now know where you can find a bottle. Although it might sell out soon, so take action if you want to purchase a bottle. 

We're conducting Wine Tastings every Saturday, from 1-4pm, sampling new wines, as well as every Thursday night, starting at 5pm. Soon, we will also be conducting Beer Tastings on Friday nights, and additional special tasting events might occur on other nights. Please come by at any of these times to expand your palate and taste some delicious and fascinating new wines!

We will be holding a special Sake Tasting event on Saturday, September 28, in honor of International Sake Day on October 1. We shall have several Sakes to sample, accompanied by some nibbles, and everyone who attends the event will receive a special handout with information about Sake, including a food recipe and a couple cocktail recipes. More information about this Sake event will be posted soon. 

If you live in Melrose, check out Victoria Hill and see what your new neighborhood wine, beer & spirits shop has to offer. If you live outside Melrose, please also check out Victoria Hill as you are likely to find a number of selections that aren't available at your neighborhood wine shop. Victoria Hill is intended to be a destination spot, where people from all of the surrounding communities will want to come because of its unique and diverse selection.

Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet
538 Main Street, Melrose
(781) 665-3332
Monday to Wednesday: 10am-8pm, Thursday to Saturday: 10am-9pm; Sunday: 10am-7pm.

Monday, August 5, 2024

2022 Mersel Red Velvet: A Natural Wine from Lebanon

Currently, there are escalating tensions in Lebanon, which could get involved in a wider conflict in the Middle East. Without delving into the politics of the region, I'll note that wine production in Lebanon has continued for many years, despite the volatility of the country. I've previously enjoyed a number of wines from Lebanon and recently tried a new wine to me, from a winery which was also new to me. 

According to the Mersel Wine website, "We are everyday people that support local farmers to make good Lebanese wine for everyone to enjoy!" The winery was cofounded by two women, who are wives and mothers, although I've been unable to locate their names online. The name of the winery comes from the region Maksar Mersel, the highest viticulture region in Lebanon. Their vineyards are organic, and managed in an "environmentally friendly manner." Their wines are unfiltered, unlined, and usually have little or no added sulfites. 

The winemaker at Mersel is Eddie Chami, who was born in Australia to Lebanese parents and around 2006 he relocated to Lebanon. He holds a degree in Viticulture and Enology from UC Davis, California.  "He is passionate about winemaking, as well as preserving and reviving the land of our ancestors and the winemaking techniques used many, many years ago...His passion is to develop wine using local Lebanese indigenous grape varieties but something not common locally.

The 2022 Mersel Red Velvet (about $25) is produced from 100% Cinsault, from ten year old vines. The organic vineyards are located at Deir El Ahmar in the Bekaa Valley, at an altitude of about 1,200m. With native yeasts, it was fermented in a sealed concrete tank and eventually underwent malolactic fermentation too. The wine was also unfiltered and unfined.

Even though it's a red wine, the winery recommends that it be served chilled, as you would a white wine, and I followed their suggestion. With a 13% ABV, the Red Velvet had a pleasant smell of red fruits with a touch of spice, and on the palate, it was light-bodied, dry, and with a hint of spritz. The flavors included strawberry, cherry, cranberry with subtle spice notes. Definitely a nice summer wine, especially with the chill to the wine. Easy drinking, but not overly simple. Would be a good wine with barbecue or even just pizza. Definitely worth checking out.

Wednesday, March 1, 2017

Boston Wine Expo: Wines of Lebanon

Lebanon has been producing wine for thousands of years though with the conflicts in the region during the last century, the number of wineries fell drastically and it is only recently that it is seeing a surge in new wineries. There are now about 40 wineries, with an total annual production of about 7 Million bottles. As I've previously tasted only a handful of Lebanese wines, and primarily from Chateau Musar, I was eager to taste the Lebanese wines that were being showcased at the recent Boston Wine Expo.

The Ixsir Winery, founded in 2008, is located in the mountains of Batroun and produces wine from a variety of terroirs across Lebanon. Its name, Ixsir, derives from the term Iksir, which is the original Arabic word for Elixir. The winery is located near the ancient village of Basbina while the coastal city of Batroun was once known as Botrus, a Greek word for "grape."

The 2015 Ixsir Altitudes Blanc ($13.99) is a blend of 40% Muscat, 30% Viognier, 15% Sauvignon and 15% Sémillon. It is light-bodied and easy drinking, crisp and fruity, with bright citrus and hints of spice and floral notes. A pleasant and tasty value wine.

The 2013 Ixsir Grand Reserve White ($24.99), a blend of 60% Viognier, 25% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Chardonnay, spends about 5 months in French oak, 50% new. This is a more aromatic wine, with intriguing herbal and floral elements, with some pear and citrus notes, and a touch of spice on the finish. It is more complex than the other white wine, and also has more body. Though you could drink this on its own, it would probably go better with food.

The 2015 Ixsir Altitudes Rosé ($16.99), a blend of 66% Syrah and 34% Caladoc, is made in a Provence style, so it is dry and crisp, with more subtle red fruit flavors and a hint of herbal notes. Very easy drinking and perfect for the summer, or any other season. It would also be an excellent and versatile food wine, as Rosé usually is. Delicious and highly recommended.

The 2010 Ixsir Altitudes Red ($13.99) is a blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Syrah, 26% Caladoc and 17% Tempranillo. Another easy drinking wine, it possesses lush red and black fruits flavors, a hint of earthiness and a mild spice note. Another pleasant and tasty value wine.

The 2011 Grand Reserve ($24.99), a blend of 61% Syrah and 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, spent about 12 months in French oak barrels, 60% new. It is easy drinking as well, though with more complexity. Rich plum and blackberry flavors, mild spice notes, restrained tannins and a lengthy finish.

Have you enjoyed any wines from Lebanon?

Thursday, October 13, 2016

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Facciamo festa! On Thursday, October 20, from 5:30pm-8-m, local SoWa artist Giardini di Sole is partnering with Cinquecento Roman Trattoria, Wanderlush and Campari Brands to bring all things Italian to the SoWa Boston.

Guests will enjoy small plates prepared by the culinary team at Cinquecento while sipping on crafted Campari cocktails by Wanderlush, a locally-born craft cocktail catering company. The neighborhood initiative will also get a chance to view Giardini di Sole’s newest Italian Home Décor and Tableware Collections in their showroom.

WHERE: Giardini di Sole Int’l | 460 Harrison Ave., Suite C-16 | Boston, MA 02118
COST: $40.00 per ticket / 100 tickets available
To purchase tickets, please click here

2) This fall TAMO Bistro & Bar at the Seaport Hotel will offer a special dining experience for their neighbors; every Monday and Tuesday evening, from 6pm-10pm, when the evenings cool off, TAMO will be serving their new “Neighborhood Nights” menu of classic comfort food and creative appetizers. Cozy up by the fire in front of a floor-to-ceiling window or settle in on a bar stool for this two-person weekly special for just $40 per person.

Guests will have the choice of any two courses plus a bottle of wine. Long-standing favorites are supplemented by some new additions to the “Neighborhood Nights Menu."  End your evening in a sweet way with the S’mores in a Crock (graham crackers, chocolate chips, mini marshmallows, ice cream).

“Neighborhood Nights” Menu
Candied Bacon
Steak & Cheese Spring Rolls Chipotle Ranch
Prosciutto Meatballs Housemade Prosciutto Meatballs, Marinara, Mozzarella
Crispy Salt ‘n Pepper Calamari Hot Peppers, 5 Spice Powder
Tacos “Al Pastor” Pork, Shredded Lettuce, Avocado, Lime Crema, Pineapple
Autumn Salad Roasted Kabocha Squash, Wheatberries, Shiitake, Kale, Hazelnuts, Cotija Cheese
North End Pizza House 4 Cheese Blend, Tomatoes, Flatbread
Broiled Chicken Curry Zeera Butter Rice, Creamy Curry, Marinated Chicken
Clam Chowder Served with Bacon and Chives
Lobster Roll served on a warm buttered bun with fries or salad
TAMO Burger Cheddar Cheese, Caramelized Onion, Bacon, Lettuce, Tomato, Brioche Bun
S’mores in a Crock Graham Crackers, Chocolate Chips, Mini Marshmallows, Ice Cream

COST: $40 per person plus tax & service
For reservations, please call 617-385-4304

3) Chelmsford restaurant Moonstones will partner with the Massachusetts Cheese Guild on Thursday, November 10 at 7 PM to present a four-course wine and cheese-centric dinner entitled Great Cheeses of Massachusetts. Cost for the event is $60 per person, excluding tax and tip.

Moonstones’ trio of chefs, working in collaboration with Winebow Fine Wine Importers, have created a menu that showcases Massachusetts-made cheeses. Special guest will be artisan cheesemaker Luca Mignogna of Wolf Meadow Farm in Amesbury, who will share his “secret” Italian techniques for making small batch ricotta, mozzarella and more.

Three other artisan cheeses produced by Massachusetts Cheese Guild members: Great Hill, Dancing Goat and Smith’s Country -- will also be featured.

MENU
Great Hill Blue Cheese
With red-wine poached pears, candied pecans, arugula and balsamic drizzle
La Cana Albarino (Spain)
Dancing Goat Dairy Chevre
And mushrooms in spinach ravioli with crisp pancetta and pinot grigio crema
Muga Rioja Reserva (Spain)
Smith’s Country Cheese Gouda
And cranberry-stuffed pork roulade, served with butternut squash puree and savory bread pudding
Textbook Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa)
Wolf Meadow Farm Ricotta Cheesecake
with Moscato Poached Figs
Maculan Dindarello Moscato (Veneto)

Moonstones believes that the story behind cheesemaker Luca Mignogna complements the restaurant’s own guiding philosophy: Think Global. Eat Local.

Reservations for the Great Cheeses of Massachusetts wine dinner are strongly suggested. Call Moonstones at 978-256-7777.

4) On Wednesday, October 19, from 7:30pm-10:30pm, Bar Boulud, Boston, located at Mandarin Oriental, Boston, will host Château Musar owner and third-generation winemaker Marc Hochar for an educational five-course culinary journey.

Château Musar is widely acknowledged as one of the world’s most unique wineries, and the Hochar family is recognized as one of the most revolutionary thought leaders in the Lebanese wine business, bringing regional bottles out of obscurity and into international acclaim. Alongside Bar Boulud’s Sommelier, David Bérubé, Marc Hochar will bring guests on a vinicultural journey to the Bekaa Valley of Lebanon.

This five-course dinner will showcase bold and classically complex wines, paired with unique seasonal dishes from Chef de Cuisine Michael Denk and Pastry Chef Robert Differ. The menu will be served as follows:

Duck Rillettes (pomegranate glaze)
Musar Jeune Rose, 2015
Musar Jeune Rouge, 2013
Seared Foie Gras (ricard, rye crumpet)
Hochar Pere et Fils 2011
Smoked Sturgeon (blackberry caviar, crème fraîche)
Château Musar Blanc, 2006
Château Musar Rouge, 2007
Chicken Kiev (truffle butter, pomme purée, butternut squash)
Château Musar Blanc, 2003
Château Musar Rouge, 1999
Poached Pear (ginger gelato, almond sablé)

COST: $170 for five-course menu and wine pairings (Ticket price includes tax and gratuity)
Tickets are available here: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/chateau-musar-wine-dinner-tickets-28083974925

Chateau Musar produces some amazing wines and this dinner should be an exceptional experience. I've enjoyed a number of Chateau Musar wines over the years, and have several in my own wine cellar. If you want to splurge on a wine dinner, this would be the event to do so.

Wednesday, December 10, 2014

2014: Top Ten Wines Over $50

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my third, and last, Top Wines List. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15 and Top Ten Wines Over $15. It is now time for my Top Wines Over $50.  Though I've tasted more than ten wines over $50 during the past year, I've only chosen to list those which were especially fascinating.

Like the prior lists, this list includes wines that not only did I enjoy, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1) 2005 Domaine Potinet-Ampeau Volnay 1er Cru 'Clo des Chenes' ($85)
This wine was a marvel from my first sniff of its aromas, a killer melange of earth and fruit, promising the best of French Burgundy. It too was elegant and ethereal, with a blend of complex flavors that seduced my palate. Each sip seemed to bring something different and the flavors seemed to last forever. A most impressive wine which is going to please any Burgundy lover. Brought in by Elden Selection, they have a great Burgundy portfolio and it is well worth checking out their other wines too.

2) 2001 Chateau Musar Blanc ($70)
This Lebanese white wine, made from two indigenous grapes, Obaideh and Merwah, is fermented in French oak barriques for 9 months. It's then bottled but not released until 7 years after harvest. It is a slightly oxidized style, and I loved it. More full bodied, it possessed a complex melange of flavors which intrigued my palate. Notes of honey and apricot, smoke and caramel, citrus and pear. Each sip seemed to bring new flavors to mind, and it evolved over the course of the dinner, getting more intriguing as the night went on. Highly recommended.

3) 2012 Sadie Family Die Ouwingerdreeks Soldaat ($54.99)
A South African wine from the Swartland region, this wine is made from 100% Grenache Noir, reminding me of some Rhône wines. The bold fruit flavors, from cherry to strawberry, were enhanced by spicy & earthy notes. It seemed both fresh and mature, an interesting dichotomy which made this a fascinating and delicious wine. Restrained tannins, a lengthy finish, and nice acidity make this another wine I highly recommend.

4) 2011 Artesana Tannat-Zinfandel-Merlot ($50+)
Though not yet available in the U.S., I eagerly await its entry. This Uruguayan wine, a blend of 55% Tannat, 25% Zinfandel and 20% Merlot, spent 24 months in French oak and only 130 cases were produced. The harmonious complexity of this wine was superb, and the restrained tannins made this wine even more compelling. There was so much going on in this wine, and all of it was pleasing and delicious.

5) 2011 Marichal Grand Reserve Tannat "A" ($55-$60)
This wine is only made in good vintages, and it spends about 18 months in oak and sees no fining or filtering. This was an alluring and seductive wine, with intriguing complexity, intense flavors, silky tannins, and a lengthy and satisfying finish. This wine shows the high-end potential of Tannat, how strong tannins can be made manageable, and the depth of flavors that can be drawn forth from this grape. Uruguay is a country to keep on your radar.

6) Quinta do Portal 20 Year Old Tawny ($57)
From one of the few Port houses owned by a Portuguese family, this aged Port presents with a light amber color and it is pure bliss. An alluring and complex aroma marries to an intriguing melange of flavors. It is silky smooth with a lengthy and very satisfying finish. It's difficult to describe this Port in words as it is something that needs to be experienced. Highly recommended.

7) 2011 Quinta do Vallado Reserve:($64.99)
This wine is a unique mix of a 70% field blend of old vines (about 80+ years old), 27% Touriga Nacional and 3% Sousão. The field blend consists of over twenty different grapes, including & Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela, and Touriga Franca. With a medium red color, this wine had an alluring nose, one which makes you sit and smell the wine for a time before tasting it. Once you sample it, you'll discover a complex and enticing melange of flavors, including ripe plum, black cherry, fig, dark spices, mineral notes and hints of earthiness. Silky tannins, a long and pleasing finish, and excellent structure & balance. It is a hedonistic, delicious wine which will make you crave another glass. It possesses a certain exotic element which I equate with Portuguese wines, a terroir element which appeals to me.

8) 1998 Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Gran Reserva Rioja ($50+)
This wine shows the great potential of aged Rioja. It is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, and 5% Graciano and is aged for 24-30 months in American oak and then aged in the bottle for at least 36 months. With a medium-red color, it has an alluring nose of cherry, plum and spice notes, and you'll probably sit with your glass for a time just enjoying the aromas. On the palate, you'll find a complex melange of intriguing flavors, a harmonious blend of fruit, spice and herbs. Elegant and silky, the wine caresses your palate, thrilling your senses. The tannins are well integrated, the wine is well balanced, and the finish lingers on and on. Though it will pair well with many dishes, it will also please on its own.

9) 2010 Vina Koyle Auma ($99.99)
This is only the second vintage of this Chilean wine, a blend of 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Carmenere, 18% Malbec, 13% Syrah, and 7% Petite Verdot. The wine is an inky dark color with an enticing nose of black fruits with eucalyptus notes. On the palate, it is seductive and alluring, a silky liquid which tantalizes the mind with its complex and harmonious blend of flavors. It is a wine where description becomes inadequate, where the best understanding comes from experiencing it. It may remind you of a high-end Bordeaux, though even if not, you are going to be impressed with its quality and complexity.

10) 2012 Bodegas Salentein Numina Gran Corte ($41) is a blend of 62% Malbec, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. I found this to be a fascinating wine from Argentina, possessed of a complex nose and taste, with great depth of flavor and a very satisfying, lengthy finish. Ripe plum, black cherry, hints of blueberry, lots of spicy notes, and hints of leather, cocoa and herbs. This is a wine to slowly savor, appreciating every complex and intriguing sip.

No single country or wine region dominated this list, and eight countries made the cut. Portugal and Uruguay both have two spots on the list, while the other spots were claimed by France, Lebanon, South Africa, Spain, Chile and Argentina. Red wines dominated though, taking 8 spots, with 1 spot for a White wine and 1 for a Fortified wine.

Not all expensive wines are worth their high price but these ten are wines well worth the splurge. These are the type of wines that words often cannot do justice. These are wines to experience and savor, not to dissect and analyze. These wines should be shared with others, with family and friends, to share the experience. With the holidays near, why not splurge and buy one of these wines.

If you have some of your own recommendations for unique and compelling wines over $50, please add them to the comments.