A New Wine Shop in Melrose: Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet

There's a new wine shop in Melrose.....

About 15 years ago, Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet, owned and operated by Rebecca & Gene Beraldi, was established in Melrose, and I worked there for 12 of those years. In mid-August, the Beraldis sold the store, which is now known as Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet. I have remained as an employee at the new store. 

The new owners, Vijay, Andy, Brian and Puja, are very sincere people and they intend the shop to be an artisan wine, beer and spirits shop. They are not seeking to turn it into a package store or convenience store. They have been expanding the available selections on a variety of levels. Obviously, with the new ownership, there have been changes at the wine shop, but they have largely been positive, and the owners have been very open to suggestions about such changes. 

For example, one of the minor changes is that Rosé wines are now stocked in the chiller, which I believe is an excellent idea. This has been met with positive feedback from many customers. Another change is that numerous different beers, especially IPAs, are now stocked in the chillers, although many old favorites are still stocked, and that new beer selection has also been met with raves from the beer customers. 

A variety of new wine selections have also been added, with many more coming in the next few months, including wines from Portugal, Georgia, Greece, Lebanon, Moldova, Croatia, and more. Customers will have many intriguing choices in what wines to purchase. I've had some input in the new wines and Sakes that have been brought in, such as the Ramos Pinto Ports, including their amazing 20 Year Old Tawny. Another example is that I also suggested wines from Lebanon, from the famed Chateau Musar (pictured above). Come see me at the store and I'll show you all of the new wines.

Chartreuse, the acclaimed liqueur made by Carthusian monks, is also now available at the shop. As devotees of this spirit know, there has been a shortage of Charteuse for several years, and it has been difficult to find in local shops. So, if you're interested in this French herbal liqueur, you now know where you can find a bottle. Although it might sell out soon, so take action if you want to purchase a bottle. 

We're conducting Wine Tastings every Saturday, from 1-4pm, sampling new wines, as well as every Thursday night, starting at 5pm. Soon, we will also be conducting Beer Tastings on Friday nights, and additional special tasting events might occur on other nights. Please come by at any of these times to expand your palate and taste some delicious and fascinating new wines!

We will be holding a special Sake Tasting event on Saturday, September 28, in honor of International Sake Day on October 1. We shall have several Sakes to sample, accompanied by some nibbles, and everyone who attends the event will receive a special handout with information about Sake, including a food recipe and a couple cocktail recipes. More information about this Sake event will be posted soon. 

If you live in Melrose, check out Victoria Hill and see what your new neighborhood wine, beer & spirits shop has to offer. If you live outside Melrose, please also check out Victoria Hill as you are likely to find a number of selections that aren't available at your neighborhood wine shop. Victoria Hill is intended to be a destination spot, where people from all of the surrounding communities will want to come because of its unique and diverse selection.

Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet

538 Main Street, Melrose

(781) 665-3332

Monday to Wednesday: 10am-8pm, Thursday to Saturday: 10am-9pm; Sunday: 10am-7pm.

Quinta do Bomfim: A Tasting Flight

During my vacation in Portugal, and while we were still in the Douro region, we had a little free time available, after our incredible lunch at Quinta da Pacheca. So, we made a brief stop at the Quinta Do Bomfim tasting room. This tasting room is part of Symington Family Estates, a family business whose history extends to the 19th century and which currently owns port houses, including Graham's, Dow's, Warre's, and Cockburn's. They also have a portfolio of Douro wines including Quinta do Vesuvio, Quinta do Ataíde, Altano, and Prats & Symington. They own 26 Quintas in the Douro region, with over 2500 acres of vineyards. 

Quinta Do Bomfim, located on the Douro River, receiving its name from "Vale do Bomfim," the "well-placed valley." The quinta was acquired by Dow's in 1896, and in 1912, Andrew Symington became a partner in Dow's. It became a famed quinta, and many of Dow's best Ports come from grapes from this Quinta, and they are all crushed in traditional lagares. 

At the tasting room, where you can taste most Symington ports and other wines, there are a few different wine flight options, and you can also select a number of wines by the glass.  I opted for the Specialist Flight, which included four wines: one White, one Red, and two Ports.  

I began with the 2020 Altano White Reserva (about $14), a blend of Viosinho, Gouveio and Rabigato (primarily Viosinho), which was aged for about 8-9 months in 2nd-use French oak. The aroma brought some citrus and tropical fruit but also some oakiness. On the palate, the wine had good acidity, plenty of fruity flavors, from citrus to pineapple, but also a prominent oaky note. The finish was moderately long but the oak presence was too prominent for my own preferences.  

The 2020 Quinta do Vesuvio Red ($60-$65) is a blend of 75% Touriga Franca, 22% Touriga Nacional, and 3% Tinta Amarela, which was aged for about 16 months in French oak (80% new oak). The grapes are from the Quinta Nova vineyard, which was acquired in the mid-19th century. With an alluring aroma, of black and red fruits, enhanced with spice notes, this wine was impressive. On the palate, it possessed a complex melange of appealing flavors, including ripe plum, blueberry, black cherry, dark spices, a hint of vanilla, and a backbone of minerality. Excellent acidity, well balanced, rich and silky smooth. It expressed elegant power, and possessed a long, lingering and compelling finish. This is a wine best paired with a steak or other hearty meal. Highly recommended and well worth the splurge.

The 1995 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port ($95-$100) is from a very good vintage, whose reputation may have suffered in comparison to the 1994 vintage which was considered exceptional. This Port was made in a more modern approach, and was full-bodied, rich and silky smooth, with a pleasing blend of flavors, including cherry, plum, caramel, subtle spice notes and a mild floral aspect. It was nicely balanced, sweet but with a nice counterbalance of acidity, and possessed a lengthy, satisfying finish. Would like to pair this Port with blue cheese, one of my favorite Port and food pairings.  

The Dow's 30 Year Old Port (about $160) is made from a blend of traditional Port grapes from Quinta do Bomfim and Quintada Senhora da Ribeira, two top vineyards. The grapes were foot-trodden in traditional lagares. This is an impressive aged Port, with an intriguing nose of dried fruit and nuts. On the palate, it presents a complex melange of dried fruits and raisins, accented by notes of nuts, caramel, chocolate and black tea. Each sip brings something new to your mouth. It's elegant, but with a certain intensity, and is also well-balanced, and more dry than sweet. The pleasing finish just goes on and on and on. Definitely a Port to linger over, to slowly sip and marvel at the different flavors which will come to you over time. 

Quinta da Pacheca Wine House Restaurant: Delicious Cod Tongues & Duck Rice

After a winery visit, and some sightseeing in the area in the Douro region, we went to Quinta da Pacheca for lunch. Quinta da Pacheca is located in in the village of Cambres, Lamego county, and the vineyards in this estate extend back to the 16th century, when they were owned by local monasteries. In a document from April 1738, the estate was first referred to as "Pacheca," a feminine form of the family name Pacheco. This was because the estate was owned and maintained by Da. Mariana Pacheco Pereira,  a woman who cared for the estate by herself.   

 

In 1903, the estate was purchased by D. José Freire de Serpa Pimente, who started to modernize the vineyards and winery. This included building eight granite lagares, for foot trodding on grapes, and these lagares are still in use today. Currently, the estate has about 75 hectares of vineyards, producing Port and Douro DOC wines. In 1995, they also got involved in wine tourism, eventually leading to the opening of their Wine House Hotel in 2009. And in 2012, the estate was bought by Maria do Ceu Goncalves and Paulo Pereira.

As we were slightly early for our lunch reservation, we first had a drink at their wine bar, where you can have a glass of wine, beer or a cocktail. The Pacheca Porto Tonico (pictured above) is made from Pacheca White Port, tonic water, lemon and a cinnamon stick. It was refreshing and bright, with only a mild sweetness, and it's easy to understand why these Port Tonics are so popular during the summer.  More people in the U.S. should make this simple cocktail at home.

Also had a glass of the Quinta Da Pacheca Superior White, a blend of 90% Viosinho and 10% Moscatel Galego Branco. The wine undergoes a little aging in oak, but remains fresh and bright, although the oak is noticeable, with a subtle vanilla flavor. There are tropical fruit flavors, crisp acidity, and some mineral notes. Interesting and delicious.

The Wine House Restaurant has a modern and elegant flair, and looks out over their vineyards and the Douro region. Such a great view, and it appears that in better weather, you could sit outside on a patio surrounding the restaurant. After perusing their wine list, we decided to get wines from Quinta da Pacheca, including the 2019 Grande Reserva Touriga Francesca (13.50 Euros) and the 2019 Pacheca Lagar No.1 (22.50 Euros). 

I'll note that at retail at the winery, the Grande Reserva costs about 45 Euros and the Lagar No.1 is about 75 Euros, so the glass price is very reasonable, especially considering that in the U.S., the wine by the glass price is often the price of a retail bottle. In addition, the price per bottle in the restaurant was only a small mark-up from the retail, with the Grande Reserva at 56 Euros and the Lagar No.1 at 92.50 Euros. This small mark-up was common at a number of Portuguese restaurants we visited. 

The 2019 Pacheca Grande Reserva Touriga Francesca, with a 15% ABV, was made from 100% Touriga Francesca, which had been trod in lagares, and it aged for about 18 months in French oak. The wine was a big and bold, with rich black fruit flavors, mild spices, and good acidity. Well-balanced, moderate tannins, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. 

The 2019 Pacheca Lagar No.1, with a 13.5% ABV, was a blend of Touriga Franca and Touriga, which had been trod in lagares, and is aged for about 18 months in 2nd and 3rd year French oak barrels. This wine was complex and elegant, with delicious flavors of ripe plum and black cherry, with subtle spice notes, and a hint of chocolate, especially on the finish. Excellent acidity, well-integrated tannins, and a long, lingering and satisfying finish. A superb wine, which I would highly recommend. 

The Food Menu, created by Chef Carlos Pires, has plenty of enticing and creative dishes, including Cold Starters (5 choices, 12.50-15 Euros), Hot Starters (5 choices, 14-17.50 Euros), Mains (3 individual choices, 26-30 Euros, and 2 dinners for 2, 52-60 Euros), Vegetarian/Vegan (4 choices, 13-16 Euros), and Salads (3 choices, 14-18.50 Euros). Consider dishes such as Octopus Carpaccio, Foie Gras, Vegetable Puff Pastry, Melon Salad with Shrimp, Codfish with a cornbread crust, and Roasted Lamb Leg.

We began with a few Starters, including the Sopa de tomate com manjericão ovo escolafado e parmesão (tomato cream soup with basil, poached egg and parmesan). A rich and creamy soup, enhanced by the poached egg and its soft yolk, this was a nice way to start the meal.

The Acorda de linguas de bacalhau com colorido de pimentos, coentros e ovo de codorniz (Cod tongues "Acorda" with colored peppers, coriander, & quail egg) was an intriguing and delicious dish. These are not actually tongues, but rather a muscle from the neck of the cod. They are popular in other areas too, like Newfoundland and Norway. These cod tongues were slightly chewy, with a mild sweetness and a spicy aspect. They reminded me a little of a scallop. A well-composed dish, I'd highly recommend you check this out too.

The Salada de rúcula com tomate cherry presunto laminado e queijo parmesão (Arugula salad with cherry tomatoes, sliced smoked ham, and parmesan cheese) was ample-sized, fresh and bright, enhanced by the smoky ham. 

We then ordered one of the Mains for two people, the Arroz de pato, com enchidos tradicionais, gratinado com queijo parmesão (Duck rice with traditional sausages and parmesan gratin). Wow, what a scrumptious dish! Such rich flavors, plenty of tender, shredded duck and sausages slices, with a tasty sauce and perfectly cooked rice. I had multiple plates of this dish, and loved every bite. Definitely one of my favorite dishes during my week in Portugal. 

Service was excellent, the food was absolutely delicious, and the wines were top notch as well. Overall, such a fine dining experience and I highly recommend The Wine House Restaurant at Quinta da Pacheca  to anyone visiting the Douro region. 

Rant: Where's The Love For Fortified Wines?

Madeira, Marsala, Port, Sherry, and Vermouth are some of my favorite wines, yet they receive far less attention than they deserve. These wines are "Fortified" wines, meaning that a distilled spirit, often brandy or a neutral spirit, is added to the wine. As such, their alcohol content is commonly 15-20%, higher than the average wine, but at least half as much as the typical spirit. Other types of fortified wines exist as well, although the five I mentioned are the most common. 

Why don't these fortified wines receive more love?

Even many ardent wine lovers don't give much attention to these wines. Vermouth is often relegated to being a mere cocktail ingredient. Marsala is often seen as merely a cooking wine. Sherry is too often seen as something only one's grandparents would drink. Port might receive the most attention of any fortified wine, yet the diversity of Port is still largely ignored. For example, many people are unaware of white port, especially the aged versions. 

A number of wine drinkers enjoy sweeter wines, but even though some of these fortified wines are sweet, these wine drinkers still don't pay much attention to them. Sherry may be the king of wines for food pairings, yet it's rare a wine drinker seeks out Sherry for their dinner.  When's the last time you had a sommelier recommend a Sherry for your dinner? In fact, when's the last time a sommelier recommended any type of fortified wine to you for dinner? At best, they might recommend one for dessert, but not for your savory courses. 

One benefit to these wines not receiving much attention is that you can find some special values, far less expensive than similar wines of similar age and quality. For example, over the summer I enjoyed a 60 year old Port, which cost less than $200. If you tried to purchase a still wine, of similar age, you would likely pay at least double, if not triple that price or more. 

Wine lovers, you should expand your palates and experience the marvels of fortified wine. There is so much diversity in these wines, from bone-dry Sherry to sweet Port, from herbal Vermouth to dry Madeira. These are also wines with rich histories, and once were much more popular around the world. It's time for a comeback for these wines, and I strongly encourage you to explore this fascinating wine category. 

Kopke Aged White Ports: A Rare Wine Category You Should Know

As I recently discussed in The Origins & Early History of White Port, only about 10% of all Port is White Port, and aged White Ports are even rarer. When perusing local wine stores, it's very rare to see one that carries an aged White Port. Most of these stores could probably special order an aged White Port for you, but they are generally not part of their regular inventory. The last time I saw an aged White Port for sale was at a wine shop in Portland, Maine. 

Kopke is a highly regarded Port producer which truly embraces the production of aged White Port, making Colheitas and White Ports with an Indication of Age (10, 20, 30, 40 and even 50 year old White Ports!). I received some media samples of three of their aged White Ports, and they were all impressive, showcasing the complexity and quality of aged White Port. 

Kopke is also the oldest Port House, having been established in 1638 by Nicolau Kopkë. Nicolau, a German, came to Portugal in 1636, as the Consul General of the Hanseatic League. Two years later, he started shipping Portuguese wines to other European countries. Almost 150 years later, in 1781, Kopke bought a vineyard in the Douro, and started producing their own wine, eventually making Port wine their primary focus. And in 1841, they changed their name to C. N. Kopke. 

In 2006, Kopke was purchased by the Spanish-owned Sogevinus, which now owns several other Port producers, including Burmester, Cálem, and Barros. Sogevinus concentrates on Port Wine, and in 2020, about 7.8 Million bottles of their annual production of 8.8 Million were Port. In addition, their Calem Velhotes brand is the top seller in Portugal, accounting for about 25% of all Port sales. 

Kopke is also the only Port House to sell both a 50 Year Old White Port and a 50 Year Old Tawny Port. The 50 Year Old Port category was only instituted in 2022, so Kopke was quick to capitalize on this new Indication of Age. It helped that they have an extensive supply of aged Ports in their vast cellars. For example, they currently sell a 1934 Colheita Tawny and a 1935 Colheita White. 

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When were Kopke Ports first exported to the U.S.? Let's explore some 19th century history, where Kopke received only a small amount of mentions. 

The earliest mention of Kopke that I found was from 1839. The Evening Post (NY), March 5, 1839, printed an advertisement for an upcoming auction of wines. This included, “Port Wines, in pipes and bottles of extra quality, selected by John Wylie, Esq. from the London dock; do Roriz, direct importations: Kopke & Co. Sweet Port.” These Ports were from the famed Quinta de Roriz vineyard, and often sold under the brand of "Kopke Roriz."

The Charleston Mercury (SC), January 3, 1857, discussed a recent sale of old Port, noting 3 bins of the 1820 vintage. The article mentioned, “...each was a rare example—different in style, but all of unexceptionable quality; it is indeed remarkable that among port wines of these ancient dates, so few decayed or even impared wines are found, and this seems to attest their general purity. Of these the Kopke’s Boriz took the lead, containing all the vigor of youth, showing substance, fruit, the highest quality, and remarkable character.” The term "Boriz" was obviously a typo and should instead be "Roriz."

There was a brief mention in the Shipping & Commercial List (NY), January 30, 1861, of, “Port Wines—Kopke Roriz, Cockburn’s and other brands.” The New York Times (NY), June 1, 1864, mentioned an auction sale, including Kopke’s Roriz old brandies of 1838, 1840 and 1848.

The Commercial Advertiser (NY), February 8, 1871, noted that James Reid & Co., located at No.49 Broad Street, New York, was the Sole Agents in the U.S. and Canada for a number of of wine/spirit companies including Kopke & Co.

The Baltimore Sun (MD), January 30 1892, printed an ad where the company had recently received Port wine from C.N. Kopke & Co., from the rare old vintage of 1847. The seller stated that he “..can therefore vouch for its genuineness as a reliable, delicate, dry, high-flavored old Wine, suitable for invalids requiring such a tonic.” 

So, we know that Kopke Ports have been imported into the U.S. for at least over 180 years. In the present day, it's also important to realize that Kopke sells more than 65% of the Colheita Ports, red and white, in the U.S. When's the last time you bought a Kopke Port?

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As for Kopke and White Port, I received some information from Carla Tiago (pictured above), part of the Kopke Winemaking Team. Carla grew up in the Douro region, eventually graduating from the University of Porto with a degree in Biochemistry. In 2005, Carla did her first harvest for Sogevinus, and she found her passion in wine making. In 2007, she joined the Kopke team, working under master blender Carlos Alves. 

Carla stated, “In fact, there are no exact dates of the origin of Port wine, neither white nor red,... It is known, however, that white wine has always been made, in much smaller quantities than red, and that after the phylloxera crisis, vineyards were planted with only white varieties and these wines began to be more common.” She also mentioned that though they don't know exactly when Kopke first started producing White Port, it's believed they have been making it since their beginning in 1638. As for their oldest White Ports now in their cellars, Carla noted their oldest vintages are from 1935 and 1940. 

80+ year old White Ports! That should intrigue any wine lover. However, wine lovers, and others, should also be intrigued with younger, although still aged, White Ports, such as Colheitas from 2002 and 2005. 

The Kopke 20 Years Old White Port is made from a blend of white grapes of different vintages, with an average age of 20 years. The wine was aged in oak for a number of years before being bottled in 2022. With a 20% ABV, the wine presented an amber/golden color and an aroma of dried fruit, salted nuts and a bit of citrus. On the palate, it possessed a rich mouthfeel, with a mild sweetness and a complex blend of dried fruits, citrus, almonds, a touch of ripe plum, and subtle spice notes. It had a pleasing, lengthy finish and good acidity.  

It's recommended that this Port be served chilled, and it went very well with some blue cheese (which is one of my favorite Port pairings). 

The Kopke 2002 Colheita White Port is made from a blend of white grapes from the 2002 harvest, and it remained in oak for about 20 years, being bottled in 2022. The term "colheita" roughly translates as "harvest" or "vintage," however it's also a specific category of Port. It must be aged in the barrel for at least seven years, although it can be aged for much longer. A Vintage Port must be from an excellent "declared" vintage, so Vintage Port cannot be produced every year, but a Colheita Port can be made in any vintage. Vintage Ports seem to get the most publicity, but Colheita Ports definitely are worthy of much more attention.

I was thoroughly enamored with this White Port. With a rich amber/golden color, its aroma was more subdued, but still complex and appealing. On the palate, it was elegant and compelling, reminiscent in some ways to a fine aged Sherry. It possessed an intriguing melange of flavors, including dried fruit, honey, subtle spices, salted almonds, a light sweetness, and much more. Each silky sip brought something new to my palate. It's finish was extremely lengthy and satisfying, and overall, the wine was impressive, my favorite of the three. Everything was in perfect balance, and there seemed to be so much life remaining in the wine. This is a wine to slowly sip over the course of an evening, observing it develop over the course of the night. It's also a wine meant to be shared, to experience with good friends. 

It was also recommended that this Port be served chilled, and it too went very well with some blue cheese. 

The Kopke 2005 Colheita White Port is made from a blend of grapes from the 2005 harvest, including 50% Malvasia Fina, 15% Gouveio, 15% Rabigato, 15% Viosinho and 5% Arinto. This was the only wine where the grapes were specifically mentioned, although it's possible these grapes might also have been the ones in the other two White Ports, although maybe not in these percentages, and other grapes may have been included as well.

This Port  remained in oak for about 17 years, being bottled in 2022. This wine had a stronger aroma than the 2002, and the flavors on the palate were stronger and more intense as well. In addition, it had a richer mouthfeel, with more sweetness to it. It was less Sherry-like, but still had a nutty aspect, as well as complex flavors of dried fruit, citrus, fig, and spice. A lengthy, pleasing finish and excellent acidity. It was also recommended that this Port be served chilled, and it too went very well with some blue cheese. 

I'd highly recommend all three of these aged White Ports. It's a fascinating category of wine, and is sure to impress your palate. In differentiating these three White Ports, the 2002 Colheita is the lightest, least sweet and most complex of the three, and reminds me in some respects of a fine aged Sherry (another of my favorite wine categories). The 2005 Colheita is richer, a bit sweeter, with bolder aromas and flavors. The 20 Year Old has much of the richness of the 2005, but is a touch less sweet, and its aromas and flavors are also a touch less bold, although still more intense than the 2002. 

I'd like to visit Kopke in October when I visit Portugal, and if so, hope to try maybe some of their even older White Ports.

The Origins & Early History of White Port

In Portugal during the summer, White Port & Tonic (Porto Tonico) is a common cocktail, being light and refreshing. However, many Americans are unfamiliar with White Port, known to the Portuguese as Porto Branco. Americans generally know about Ruby and Tawny Ports, often believing that all Port must be red. That's understandable as only about 10% of all Port production is White Port, and it can be difficult to find in the U.S.

White Port can be made from a wide variety of white grapes, with over 45 authorized types, such as Arinto, Cercial, Codega, Gouveio, Malvasia Fina, Rabigato, and Viosinho. It's generally produced in the same manner as Red Ports but they are usually fermented without any skin contact and commonly aged, for two to three years, in 550 liter oak pipes. White Ports range from dry to sweet, and the sweetest versions are sometimes known as Lagrima ("tears"). There's also a special category called Leve Seco ("light dry") which has a lower alcohol content, about 16.5%.

Most White Ports are released when they are young, but there's also a small category of aged White Ports. There's White Ports with an Indication of Age, similar to Tawny age categories, including 10, 20, 30, 40 and 50 Year Old Ports. The 50 Year Old category is new, having just been introduced in 2022, and includes both Tawny and White Ports. Kopke has bottled a 50 Year Old White Port, as well as a similarly aged Tawny.   

You can also find Colheita White Ports, made from a specific vintage, and as an example, Kopke also produces a full line of Colheita White Ports. Finally, there's another relatively new category known as Very Old White Port, which includes old White Ports that don't fit into the other categories. Vieira de Sousa produces a unique Very Old White Port. 

I've previously enjoyed a number of Aged White Ports, such as those of Quinta de Santa Eufemia, and I find them to be complex, fascinating and delicious. They are well worth seeking out. And they also have raised a question in my mind. 

When was White Port first produced?   

That appears to be a question not addressed in the most common books about Port. Google searches also aren't too helpful. You can easily discover that Taylor Fladgate claims to have been the first, in 1934, to create a dry White Port, which they called Chip Dry White Port. You might also find a few references to White Port from the end of the 19th century. So, I endeavored to delve deeper into the history of White Port, to get more clarity, if possible, on the question of its origins.

The results of my research were relatively successful, as well as fascinating. In short, White Port appears to be probably as old as Red Port, extending back to the late 17th century. White Port was first exported to the U.S. in the first half of the 18th century, and those imports included old White Ports as well as Vintage White Ports! So, let's explore the early history of White Port. 

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It was around 1680, that the first wines from the Douro region of Portugal became known as "Port Wines." England was initially the primary export market for these Port Wines. Were these initial wines only Red Ports, or were White Ports also being produced at this time?

During my research, the first reference I found to White Port was in The Lombard-Street Lecturer’s Late Farewell Sermon, Answer’d: Or, the Welsh Levite by David Jones (London, 1692), which mentioned, “… , the Guilt of the Husband, when he trespasses on the benevolence of his Pious Comfort with a buxom Harlot over a pint of White Port in a Hedge Tavern;...” A hedge tavern was generally a lower class establishment, and apparently white port was a common beverage in such places.

This reference is only about 12 years after the first mention of Port Wines, but it's clear from the context that White Port had existed before 1692. There was no effort to define "White Port," and it was apparently assumed that the readers would know it. Thus, it seems likely that White Port was created around the same time as Red Port. So, the known history of White Port extends back over 330 years. 

Over the next twenty years, Dr. William Salmon (1644–1713), an English doctor and author, wrote several books that mentioned White Port. Some of the books recommended White Port as an ingredient in certain medicinal elixirs, while one of his books mentioned it as an ingredient in various food recipes. He obviously saw White Port as a versatile wine, for health benefits as well as adding taste to various dishes.

His first book to mention White Port appears to be Dr. Syndenham’s Practice of Physick (London, 1695). One of the medicinal elixirs was made as such, “Take White Port Wine six spoonfuls, Powers of Lavender, Rosemary, and Limons, of each half a dram; white Sugar two ounces: mix for a Dose.” Additional medicinal uses of White Port were also mentioned in Ars Chirurgica: A Compendium of the Theory and Practice of Chirurgery (London, 1699), Botanologia: The English Herbal: Or History of Plants (London, 1710), and the Praxis Medica: The Practice of Physick (London, 1716). 

In Salmon's The Family Dictionary: Or, Household Companion (London, 1696, 2nd edition), there were about 10 of so food recipes which used White Port as an ingredient, while the 4th edition (1710) expanded on this, with over 40 recipes such as a Sauce for Capons & Turkies, Veal Stewed, Buttering of Shrimps, and Fried Lamb Steaks.

One of the earliest British newspapers to mention White Port was the Newcastle Weekly Courant (England), September 7, 1723, which printed an advertisement for wine, which included, “Port white Wine, and red Port Wine.” During the rest of the 18th century, there were numerous advertisements in British newspapers mentioning White Port, but little description of this wine was provided. 

The Ipswich Journal (England), November 8, 1735, advertised Red and White Port, both available for  6 shillings. Another ad in the Gloucester Journal (England), December 14, 1736, had White Port for 6 shillings but Red Port was 6 shillings, 6 pence. The Gloucester Journal (England), October 29, 1751, advertised, for wholesale, Old Red Port (a dozen bottles for 19 shillings) and Old White Port  (a dozen bottles for 18 shillings). The Ipswich Journal (England), November 2, 1751, advertised Red and White Port, both for 5 shillings, 6 pence per gallon. These prices would remain the same in a similar ad in this newspaper in 1756.

During the 1760s and 1770s, Red and White Ports were generally sold for prices ranging from 5-6 shillings per gallon. In the 1780s, these ports started being sold for about 7 shillings.  

As for the United States, the first newspaper reference to White Port seems to be in the South Carolina Gazette (SC), December 7, 1734. There was an advertisement in the newspaper, listing the cargo of an merchant ship, which included Red and White Port. So, we see that White Port has been available in the U.S. for nearly 300 years.

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As a brief inside, many resources claim that the first mention of “Vintage Port” was in a Christie’s auction catalog (dated 1773), which referred to a 1765 vintage port wine. However, my own research found earlier mentions. I'll note that at this time period, there weren't any specific regulations for the use of the term "vintage," and it just meant Port from a specific year. 

The Gloucester Journal (England), September 9, 1755, advertised an auction of wines, rums, and arrack. The offerings included "Six Pipes of curious Red Port, of the year 1752" as well as one from the year 1750. There were also "Six Pipes of White Port, of the year 1752." In addition, they had "A Parcel of Old Bottled Port, of the Year 1748." Although the term "vintage" wasn't mentioned, it's clear that these ports were made from a specific vintage, with 1748 being the oldest mentioned. 

The Boston-Gazette (MA), November 6, 1769, published a wine advertisement, which offered, “Red and white Port of the Vintage of 1764.” This ad actually used the term "vintage," and predates the information in the Christie's catalog. 

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During the rest of the 18th century, there were numerous ads for White Port in U.S. newspapers, and nearly all provided little descriptive information about these wines. A couple exceptions though mentioned old White Ports. The Daily Advertiser (NY), June 4, 1788, mentioned “A choice cargo of White Port Wine, twelve years old, of a superior quality to any ever imported to this country.” The Maryland Gazette (MD), October 28, 1790, also had an ad for “White Port, fourteen years old.” White Port wasn't just a simple, sweet wine, but could be found in Vintage and aged styles.

Also during the 18th century, White Port made its appearance in Canada and Ireland. The first mention of White Port in Canada might have been in the The Derby Mercury (England), October 20, 1749, which published a letter from someone in Nova Scotia. The writer mentioned being able to buy Red and White Port for a shilling per bottle. As for Ireland, the Freeman’s Journal & Daily Commercial Advertiser (Ireland), June 15, 1775, had maybe that country's first advertisement for White Port. 

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During the 19th century, the newspaper advertisements began to be more descriptive, offering for sale Vintage and aged White Ports. Let's begin with a review of several British newspapers during the first half of the 19th century.

The Leeds Intelligencer & Yorkshire General Advertiser (England), January 12, 1807, printed an ad selling “very FINE OLD WHITE PORT, warranted upwards of Four Years in Bottles, and nearly equal to the best Madeira.” This was obviously intended to be high quality White Port, although it was only aged for four years in the bottle. The Observer (England), July 6, 1834, presented an ad which included a White Port that had spent 15 years in the bottle.

As for Vintage White Port, the Chester Chronicle (England), September 2, 1814, mentioned an offer for sale of a “Parcel of Red and White Port wines, of the vintage 1812.” The Morning Chronicle (England), May 23, 1826, offered for sale, “...curious old White Port, vintage 1815.” The 1815 Vintage is now known as the Waterloo Vintage, as it was the year when the Battle of Waterloo was fought. In 2015, a bottle of 1815 Vintage Red Port was sold at auction for 6,800 Euros. I'll also add that The Norwich Guide and Directory by G.K. Blyth (London, 1842), printed a wine ad for, “White Port. Vintage 1798.” A White Port that was over 40 years old!

Some intriguing information on White Port production was provided in The Vintner's, Brewer's, Spirit Merchant's and Licensed Victualler's Guide by A Practical Man (5th edition, London, 1838). It stated,  “To Fine White Port Wine. White Port is a very stubborn wine, and requires to be fined and racked two or three times before it will become soft and pleasant. When the wine has been for some time in the vault, take two ounces and a half of isinglass, beat it very small with a hammer, and put it into two quarts of stale cider or perry, for forty-eight hours; then whisk it up into a froth in a can with some of the wine, and if the weather is temperate, out into the finings a gill or marble sand, stirring it well about again for five minutes. Leave the bung loose for three days afterwards bung it up for a fortnight, and rack it off into a Madeira pipe, using less of the finings than before. By this method the wine will be much improved.”

A bit more description on the nature of White Port was presented in an advertisement in The Morning Post (England), November 26, 1842. It started, “White Port, having the unmingled expression of the white grape, which flourishes in high perfection on the heights of the Douro, is rich, redolent, and vinous in flavor, and combines every luxuriant attribute that wine can possess.” 

Let's now move onto a review of several U.S. newspapers during the first half of the 19th century, which provided a bit more description of the White Ports offered for sale.   

The Philadelphia Inquirer (PA), March 14, 1837, printed an ad offering “..., old white Port of choice quality.” The Philadelphia Inquirer (PA), February 15, 1841, then offered “Extra Sup. Old Red Port, ‘Vintage 1815,’ wine wholesale; Extra Sup. Old White Port, ‘Vintage 1820.’ Both from Burmester’s private stock, at Oporto direct.” More Vintage White Port! This is also one of the first mentions in an advertisement of the actual source, Burmester, of the White Port offered for sale. Previous advertisements never mentioned the producer.

The Boston Evening Transcript (MA), October 24, 1850, mentioned, “London Dock Port and White Port, very superior.” And the Daily Republic (D.C.), November 18, 1850, in an ad for a wine shop in Philadelphia, offered “rare delicate WHITE PORT.”

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During the second half of the 19th century, more British newspapers provided a bit of additional description of the White Ports offered for sale. However, mentions of White Port decreased over the course of the last 20 or so years of the 19th century.   

The Daily News (England), April 19, 1864, mentioned for sale a “white Port, bottled in 1840, a very choice specimen.” A 24 year old White Port!

The Newcastle Daily Chronicle (England), September 28, 1867, described White Port in general,  stating, “This wonderful wine may be found genuine and rich, fruity, and of excellent body, soft, delicate, and nutritious, of light and stimulating character, with fine aroma and choice bouquet, much crust, and a great deal of wing, and above all of a dry and silky finish.”

More Vintage Ports! The Western Morning News (England), December 19, 1867, printed a wine ad offering 8 bottles of White Port, vintage 1815, the Waterloo Vintage. The Daily News (England), August 18, 1869, had an ad for, “very fine white port, vintage 1851.”

The decrease in mentions of White Port was addressed in the Daily Post (England), October 22, 1869, which mentioned, “White Port. This rare Wine, once so much prized, has of late years dropped entirely out of sight and use, why it is difficult to say.” The reasons seem elusive, but its popularity would return in the early 20th century.

And in the second half of the 19th century, a number of U.S. newspapers provided additional descriptions of the White Ports offered for sale.

The Alexandria Gazette (VA), May 20, 1853, printed an article where the writer travelled to Portugal. He sampled some wine, and wrote,  “White Port, a delicious and very rare wine, somewhat resembling in flavor the dry Bual of Madeira.”

The Portland Press Herald (ME), August 16, 1856, then ran an ad offering, “choice White Port, very rich and sweet.” The Daily Exchange (MD), May 3, 1858, also had a wine ad, noting, “Port Wines—Sandeman’s competition red and white Port, in wood and in glass.” So, Sandeman is another of the few producers of White Port mentioned during this time period. And the New York Daily Herald (NY), June 21, 1873, offered “Old White Port, very rare.”

In an examination of an extensive wine cellar, a writer for The Philadelphia Times (PA), January 18, 1880, encountered a White Port. The article noted, “The White Port, of which there was a small quantity, had the appearance of a milky-like fluid of vinous odor and slight acidity. Such port was, I believe, and still is, in favor as an extreme curiosity of unusual value.” It also noted, “Others have supposed that its color or rather its want of color, was owing to the grape from which it was made.”

White Port in Ireland? The Baltimore Sun (MD), March 4, 1885, noted: “...the white port at one time so popular in Ireland.” The Irish newspapers I researched didn't make it seem that White Port was especially popular in Ireland, and I didn't find a huge amount of wine ads offering White Port. This is an area that could use additional research. 

The alcohol content of White Port? The Dayton Herald (OH), September 17, 1887, published a table noting the average alcohol contents of various liquors. For example Red Port was 23% while White Port was only 15%. So, there was a significant difference in the amount of alcohol in these two types of Port. 

The Chicago Tribune (IL), June 13, 1890, printed an ad for Port Wine, including, “Delicioso. White Port, fruity, delicately rich, a Ladies’ Wine par excellence.” This is the first mention of White Port being a "Ladies' Wine," and it might refer only to this specific brand. 

Russia and White Port. The Kansas City Times (KS), March 22, 1898, printed an article where the writer visited a large commercial wine and spirits cellar in Kansa City. He wrote, “Here is some white port wine and it is the first time it was ever brought to Kansas City. We imported it direct from Portugal and there are very few places in this country where it is used at all. It finds its principal consumption in Russia, where the wealthy classes are very fond of it.” It seems White Port was popular for a time in Russia, and that would be supported by other sources. 

One such source, Port and the Douro (4th edition, 2018) by Richard Mayson, noted, “In 1907, saw the loss of the lucrative Russian market which had favoured sweet white Ports. In an effort to boost sales of their own wines, the Russian authorities raised the duty on Port to the equivalent of £60 a pipe.” 

Fake Port! The Muncie Morning News (IN), December 18, 1898, presented an ad for The California Wine Company which sold “California White Port,” vintage 1886. White Port must have been so popular in the U.S. that California wineries decided to emulate it, creating their own versions. At this time, California was creating their own version of many famed wines, such as Champagne, Sherry, Tokay, and Madeira, 

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During the first half of the 20th century, some British newspapers offered additional interesting information about White Port.

The Tamworth Herald (England), February 3, 1900, described the Menu for the Prince of Wales’s Derby Day dinner. The dessert was to be accompanied by a “royal tawny port, fifty years old, royal white port, also fifty years old.” A 50 year old White Port! 

The Manchester Courier (England), November 27, 1908, noted that white port was “a wine which is not in fashion in these degenerate days,..” Although there were more mentions of White Port in British newspapers at this time, it still appears that it wasn't as popular as before.

Another curious version of White Port. The Daily Mirror (England), November 16, 1925, presented an advertisement for Dr. Rutland’s White Invalid Very Old Port. The ad stated, “The reason why the majority of doctors now prescribe White Port instead of Red Port for invalids is because of its infinite superiority as a nutrient and restorative. Being free from tannin and acidity it is readily digested. Dr. Rutland’s White Invalid is a port of the highest possible degree of purity and has all the body and flavor of the finest red port without the latter’s heaviness and blood-heating properties. Hence it is the wine par excellence for gouty and rheumatic subjects. Made solely from the finest white grapes grown in the Douro Vineyards of Portugal and matured in cask for many years before bottling, guaranteed full strength.” In addition, the ad mentioned, “the Port that carries the certificate of the British Analytical Control.” 

This elixir would be offered for nearly the next fifteen years, with its last mentions in 1939. As we already saw, back in the 1690s, White Port was an ingredient in a number of medicinal elixirs, so it's not   surprising that it might show up again as a health product. However, Dr. Rutland's White Port seems to be only a Port, without the addition of any other ingredients. It's unclear how it might have differed from other White Ports. 

The Stockport County Borough Express (England), November 26, 1925, had an ad for Beverly’s Wine & Spirits Merchant, which offered their own white and red ports. Their No.8 White Port, was noted as, “It is a fine, sound wine of a light nature that is refreshing and beneficial to drink. It has the delicious sweet flavor of Portugal finest, sun-ripened white grapes, the juice of which is well matured in the wood.” They were said to sell direct from the vineyards of the Douro. 

White Port was popular again! The Daily Mail (England), December 2, 1927, mentioned “Clubland White Port” and noted, “This is the very finest specimen of White Port shipped to England to day, and is in immense demand all over Europe.” 

As for the U.S. in the first half of the 20th century, although there were plenty of advertisements for White Port from the Douro, it seemed that California White Port Wine garnered much more attention.

The Spokane Chronicle (WA), February 6, 1900, had an for White Port Wine, selling for $1.25 per quart but which was also available for 12.5 cents a glass.

The Star Press (IN), June 23, 1900, printed, “The California Wine Company are the sole proprietors of the famous California White Port Wine. None genuine unless bearing our signature. Beware of imitations.” Obviously other producers were starting to make California White Port, but the California Wine Company was trying to claim precedence, ignoring the fact that they had copied Portuguese White Port. 

The Muncie Daily Herald (IN), December 7, 1900, printed an ad for a drug store that sold “Pure White Port Wine” for 50 cents a quart. This Port may have been sold for health purposes, considering the fact this was a drug store.  

The Omaha Evening Bee (NE), June 17, 1902, presented a wine ad for a White Port Wine, that was “a genuine California White Port—not a cheap wine manufactured in some eastern rectifying house, but a fine beverage made from selected grapes.” The brand of this wine is not made clear, and it's unsure whether this referred to the California Wine Company or not. 

California was not the only U.S. state to produce their own version of White Port. The Kansas City Star (KS), January 19, 1905, advertised a "New York State White Port," a quart available for 75 cents. New York White Port would be produced throughout the 20th  century.

The Hartford Courant (CT), May 14, 1907, also presented an for California White Port Wine, with the bold claim, "Better than an imported one."

The Los Angeles Evening Post-Record (CA), October 18, 1907, presented an ad for Star Wine & Grocery, which sold various California wines, including White Port. Their White Port was described as “One of the finest wines on the market today. Unexcelled as a tonic or fall stimulant. Guaranteed absolutely pure; per gallon $2.00.” 

The Lead Daily Call (SD), November 26, 1912, printed a sale ad, offering "Five year old White Port" which was made by "the Italian-Swiss Colony people of California, the largest wine and Brandy distillery in the world,.." 

The Boston Evening Transcript (MA), February 19, 1912, had a large sales ad, which offered bottles of Vintage 1885 White Port (from Portugal) for $1.30 a bottle. 

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So, we can see that the history of White Port essentially parallels the history of Red Port. Vintage White Ports and aged White Ports were available during the 18th and 19th centuries, and were considered rare and compelling. Apparently, White Port fell out of favor during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and in the U.S., that might have occurred due to the rise of American-made White Ports, such as those of California and New York. 

Today, White Port is probably much less popular than it once was, but there seems to be a growing interest in aged White Ports. There are plenty of excellent White Ports being produced, and the new categories, like 50 Year Old White Ports and Very Old White Ports, are helping to bring attention to White Port. I'm enamored with aged White Ports, which present such a different and intriguing flavor profile than Red Ports. Wine lovers should embrace White Port, as as apertif, an after-dinner drink, or even paired with food.   

What's your favorite White Port?

Caves Messias 1963 Colheita Port: An Exquisite 60 Year Old!

For most people, the opportunities to drink a 60 year old wine are extremely limited, and it's usually for a celebratory occasion. For my birthday last week, I wanted to celebrate with a very special wine, and decided to open a bottle of the Caves Messias 1963 Colheita Port, which I had purchased four to five years ago at Bin Ends and stored away for a special occasion. 

It was an exquisite wine, complex and delicious, with so much life still within it. A great choice for my birthday celebration. 

For much of Europe, the 1963 vintage was generally considered terrible. Bordeaux, Sauternes, Burgundy, the Rhône, Piedmont, and Tuscany all suffered, while wines in Spain and Germany were generally average at best. However, an exception was Port, where 1963 was considered a legendary vintage! So, if you want to purchase a wine from 1963, one of your best options would be Port. 

Caves Messias was founded in 1926 by Messias Baptista, and his descendants still manage the company. The company produces a wide range of wine (from Sparkling to Port) from many different regions of Portugal. The company is also based at Mealhada, a small city in central Portugal, in the Bairrada region. In the Douro Valley, they own about 110 hectares of vineyards, and produce a wide range of Port products, including White, Tawny, Ruby and Rosé, 10-40 Year Old Ports, LBV, Vintage and Colheita.   

I should note that this 1963 Port is not a Vintage Port, but rather a Colheita. The term "colheita" roughly translates as "harvest" or "vintage," however it's also a specific category of Port. In short, it's a Tawny Port, with a vintage date, and which has been aged in the barrel for at least seven years, although it can be aged for much longer. 

A Vintage Port must be from an excellent "declared" vintage, so Vintage Port cannot be produced every year. For example, during the 1960s, only 1960, 1963 and 1967 were declared as Vintage years. On the other hand, Colheita Port can be made in any vintage. Vintage Port is also usually aged for only about 2 years in the barrel, and then will continue to age in the bottle. When you purchase a Vintage Port, it's commonly recommend that you wait at least 10 years or more before you should drink it. However, Colheita Port can be drank anytime after it has been released. No need to store it in your cellar before drinking it. Vintage Ports seem to get the most publicity, but Colheita Ports definitely are worthy of much more attention.

The Caves Messias 1963 Colheita Port currently sells for an average price of $392, although I paid less than 50% of that price several years ago. It's the type of wine which will continue to appreciate in value each year. Although the price seems high, consider that the wine is 60 years old and from an exceptional vintage. Plus, only 3,000 bottles of this wine, a tiny amount, were produced! And compared to many other wines of similar characteristics, including age and vintage quality, you could easily pay two to three times that amount. 

This 1963 Colheita, with a 20% ABV, was a field blend of Portuguese grapes, including Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão, and Tinta Barroca. It was aged for 50 years in the barrel, having been bottled only in 2013. It doesn't require decanting as it has been filtered so there's no sediment. It's also recommend that you serve it at about 48-57 degrees Fahrenheit, so it should be chilled before serving. 

If you examine the photo at the top of this page, you'll see a strange glass next to the bottle. That's a Port Sipper, whose history may extend back to the early 18th century, if not earlier. It's also known as a Sipping Pipe, and the first ones were made of ceramic. Nowadays, they are made of glass or crystal. The thin, hollow pipe is used as a straw, allowing you to drink the Port from the bottom of the glass, where oxygen isn't able to reach, preventing oxidation. I bought some of these Port Sippers a few months ago, but they aren't necessary to drink Port. I also haven't used them enough to compare the differences between them and a typical wine glass. 

What did I think of this Port?

With a light, tawny color, I was first entranced with its alluring and complex nose, such a variety of intriguing aromas emanating from my glass. And on the palate, there was also a complex melange of flavors, enticing and tantalizing my palate. As I first tasted this Port, I was surprised by its fresh, bright flavors, youthful signs in such an old wine. This was definitely a wine which could age beautifully for many more years. 

As I sipped more, I was impressed by its depth of flavor and concentration, with touches of caramel, almonds, spice, dried fruit, and much more. Each sip brought something new, even if subtle, to my mouth. It was a delight to slowly sip this Port, savoring the evolving flavors. It also possessed a fine acidity, balancing its soft sweetness, and a silky smooth mouthfeel, ending with a long, lingering and satisfying finish. Just an exquisite Port, and words cannot do it justice. It's something meant to be experienced and enjoyed, elusive of capturing that experience in words. 

I enjoyed this Port with some blue cheese, one of my favorite Port pairings. And as I didn't finish the bottle on my birthday, I've been savoring it over the course of the past week. I only wish I had bought another bottle of it those years ago. This Port certainly made my birthday even more special. 

Drink more Port!

Wine & Soul: Field Blends, Old Vines & Douro Terroir

My love of Portuguese wines, from Vinho Verde to Port, is well known, and there's much diversity to be found in their wines, from hundreds of indigenous grapes to varied terroirs. I often rave about the great values that can be found in the Portuguese wines, but I've also emphasized that they produce some amazing, albeit more expensive wines, as well. At a recent wine dinner, I experienced for the first time the wines of Wine & Soul and was thoroughly impressed with their quality, complexity and taste. These are wines that earn my highest recommendations and I need to buy some for my own wine cellar.

The Wine & Soul wine dinner, of which I was a media guest, was part of the 31st Annual Boston Wine Festival, said to be the longest running food and wine festival in the country. Chef Daniel Bruce (pictured above), the Executive Chef at the Boston Harbor Hotel, created this festival, which runs from January to March, and each year hosts a series of winemaker hosted dinners, seminars and receptions. These wine dinners often present some of the world's top wines, paired with Chef Bruce's amazing cuisine. I've previously enjoyed a number of dinners prepared by Chef Bruce, and have always been very pleased and satisfied with what he created.

Wine & Soul, which was founded in 2001, is owned by a husband-and-wife team, Jorge Serodio Borges and Sandra Tavares DaSilva. They both possess extensive prior experience in the wine industry. Jorge Serôdio Borges was an oenologist at Niepoort, and also owns the winery Quinta do Passadouro with the Bohrmann family. Sandra has the honor of being the first female winemaker in the Douro, having worked at Quinta do Vale D. Maria in the Douro and at her family’s estate of Quinta da Chocapalha in Estremadura.

Sandra and Jorge eventually decided that they wanted to own their own vineyard, and in 2001, purchased an old Port lodge in the Douro, more specifically in the Cima Corgo's Pinhão Valley. The property had a two-hectare plot of 70+ year old vines, the Pintas vineyard, with over 30 indigenous grapes. Wine & Soul was born. In 2009, they also inherited Quinta da Manoella, an estate planted mainly with very old vineyards, some over a hundred years old. Overall, they now own about 45 acres of vineyards, producing only about 30,000 bottles annually.

Sandra, pictured above, was the special guest at the Wine & Soul dinner, which was attended by about fifty people. She began the dinner with a short talk, mainly about their history and vineyards, and spoke a few more times during the dinner, discussing the various wines. Her family owns the Quinta da Chocapalha in Estremadura, and this is probably what might have initially set Sandra on the winemaking path. She spent a year studying in Italy, as she feels it has much in common with Portugal, and then she began working in the Douro. About 20 years ago, she began working at Quinta do Vale D. Maria and she also met Jorge at that time.

I found Sandra to be personable and charming, humble and knowledgeable, a passionate advocate for her wines. Some of her wines have garnered accolades from the major wine periodicals, such as the 2016 Wine & Soul Manoella being included in the Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines of 2019, but Sandra never mentioned these accolades. It seemed as if she wanted all of the guests to judge the wines on their own, and also because she seems to be a very humble person. To me, that is so much more appealing than having a winemaker drone on and on about their wine scores. It was a real pleasure to chat with her about her wines.

Wine & Soul is very concerned about producing wines that reflect the terroir of their vineyards, which includes wanting to best understand their vineyards. Sandra stated that wine should give you "the feeling that you are there," which is an interesting way of describing the concept of terroir. In addition, they are concerned with old vines and indigenous grapes, and one of their biggest challenges is locating plots of old vines available for purchase. In addition, they are currently seeking organic certification, and use indigenous yeasts, with minimal intervention.

Many of their wines are made from field blends, often consisting of 30+ grapes. Such a fascinating palette from which to create their wines. Portugal has over 300 indigenous grapes, a number of them originally brought by monks who carried cuttings with them when they travelled to Portugal. By using field blends, you're not dependent on any one grape, so are less susceptible to problems with a bad vintage. A field blend provides balance, yet still possesses its own identity. In addition, contrary to what some might think, there isn't much difference in the ripeness levels of the grapes, as plants generally want to pollinate at the same time and thus usually flower together.

Most of their grapes are also foot-trodden, in granite lagares, which is supposed to yield fine, silky tannins as it is a more gentle process on the grapes. This is rarely done in the Douro, and mainly for Port wine, although there are still granite lagares existing from the days of the ancient Romans. Thus, this practice is another way Wine & Soul helps to differentiate itself from other producers.

Interestingly, all of their barrel aging, including for their Ports, is conducted in the Douro, though most other Port producers age their wines elsewhere. The Douro was long considered too warm for barrel aging, but the advent of modern technology has changed the need to age elsewhere. Wine & Soul also owns a 19th century building with stone cellars, for the storage of their hundreds of barrels, which creates a natural coolness that works well for their varied wines.

Before we sat for dinner, we began the evening with a glass of the 2018 Wine & Soul Guru Branco (about $35). Sandra mentioned that about 20 years ago, few people in the Douro were producing white wines, as many claimed the region was too warm to produce good whites. However, in the Douro, there are higher-altitude mountainous areas which are cooler and can produce fine white grapes. Sandra and Jorge found tiny plots, with a field blend, at 600-700 meters high. Inspired by old white Ports, they chose to make this wine, what they claim to be a classic wine with aging potential, one reflective of terroir. Its first vintage was 2004.

This wine is produced from a field blend, from a 60 year old vineyard, which is approximately 25% Viosinho, 25% Rabigato, 25% Codega do Larinho and 25% Gouveio. The soil is a combination of schist (which gives the wine texture and flavors) and granite (which gives the wine its length and purity of flavors). The wine was also fermented and aged in French barriques for about seven months.  With a 12.5% ABV, this wine was fresh, crisp and delicious, with a complex blend of flavors, including peach, grapefruit, mineral notes, and a touch of oak. Medium-bodied, it possessed a pleasing finish and a nice elegance. Would love to pair this wine with seafood, from oysters to cod.

The First Course of our dinner was Slow Braised Pork Belly, in a red wine glaze with smoked King Oyster mushrooms and spinach. Chef Bruce mentioned that the pork belly had been steamed for about seven hours and that the mushrooms had been smoked for about 20 minutes. The silky pork belly, with its mildly sweet glaze, was delicious, enhanced by the smoky earthiness of the mushrooms. This dish was paired with two wines, the 2016 Wine & Soul Manoella and the 2013 Quinta da Manoella Vinhas Velhas.

The 2016 Wine & Soul Manoella (about $22) is a blend of 60% Touriga Nacional, 25% Touriga Franca, 10% Tinta Roriz, and 5% Tinta Francisca from the Quinta da Manoella vineyard, which was planted in 1973. This property has been owned by five generations of Jorge's family, and was initially purchased in the mid-19th century. It now consists of 70 hectares of land, 20 which have vineyards, the rest being forest and their plan is to keep it that way. The grapes for this wine were foot-trodden, and the wine aged for 16 months in used French barriques. At 14.2% ABV, this wine had a beautiful dark red color, with a delightful nose of pleasing aromas. On the palate, it was dry and lush, with tasty flavors of cherry, raspberry and mild spices. There was an earthy element as well, with a lengthy finish, nice acidity, and it paired nicely with the pork belly.

The 2013 Quinta da Manoella Vinhas Velhas (about $75) is a field blend of more than 30 indigenous grape varieties, from a vineyard planted in 1900. The grapes for this wine were foot-trodden, and the wine aged for 20 months in used French barriques. At 14.3% ABV, this wine had a more subtle nose than the other Manoella, but on the palate, it was much bolder, though still possessed of elegance and restraint. The black fruit flavors, like ripe plum and black cherry, were more concentrated, and there was plenty of complexity, with elements of dark spice, chocolate and black tea. A full bodied wine, with a lengthy, lingering finish that thoroughly satisfied. So much going on in this wine, and the smoky mushrooms were a nice companion to this wine.

The Second Course was Seared Arcadian Red Fish, with black rice, sweet onion puree, tomatoes, and petit basil. Chef Bruce found this fish while perusing the choices down at the Fish Pier. It is a sustainable choice, an under-utilized species with a delicious taste. This flaky white fish had a nice weight to it, and the ingredients combined for quite a tasty dish, the acidity of the tomatoes helping to cut the fat of the dish.

This was paired with the 2015 Wine & Soul Pintas Character (about $42) which is made from a field blend of 30+ varieties from the Vale de Mendiz vineyard, which was planted in 1970. The grapes for this wine were foot-trodden, and the wine aged for 18 months in French barriques, 50% new and 50% second-use. At 14.1% ABV, this wine is intended to be softer and more accessible than the flagship Pintas wine. It is a rich and bold wine, yet still elegant and silky, with a tasty blend of black fruit flavors and dark spices. The fruit flavors are most dominant, yet this wine still retains complexity as well as a lengthy, pleasing finish.

The Third Course was a fantastic Char Grilled Colorado Lamb T Bone, with fresh thyme, crosnes, and aged pecorino cream. The lamb was extremely tender, juicy and flavorful, just an excellent cut of meat. And that lamb was a killer pairing with our next wine, the 2017 Wine & Soul Pintas!

The Pintas was the first wine made by Wine & Soul, and the term "pintas" refers to "spots" or "splashes" of wine. The vineyard is over 100 years old, and contains a field blend of over 35 indigenous varieties. In addition, the vineyard has a southern-west exposure, with over 40% elevation slopes, and it located at a high altitude. Their desire was to make a full bodied wine that best showed the terroir of the Douro. As they state, "Our goal is to create wines that express all the character of the traditional vineyards and varieties from the Douro Valley. A balanced wine between the concentration, complexity and elegance.”

The grapes for the 2017 Wine & Soul Pintas (about $90) were foot-trodden, and the wine aged for 22 months in French barriques, 70% new and 30% in second-use. With a 13.7% ABV, this wine first evidenced a seductive aroma, subtle and complex, drawing you into its beauty. On the palate, there was an intriguing and absolutely delicious melange of complex flavors, such as ripe plum, blackberry, blueberry, mild spice notes, a few floral hints, and a touch of earthiness. Full-bodied and bold, yet elegant, with well-integrated tannins and a delightfully lengthy finish. Well-balanced and compelling, this was a superb wine, certainly evidence that Portugal can make world-class wines. It was an amazing pairing with the lamb. This is also a wine that should age well for many years to come, something definitely you should add to your wine cellar. It earns my highest recommendation.

For Dessert, there was a Hazelnut Torte, with Port-glazed figs, pear sorbet, and salted caramel. A wonderful blend of sweet and fruity flavors.

With this dish, we enjoyed a glass of the 2017 Wine & Soul 10 Year Old Tawny Port ($55), which enthralled me. The grapes were foot-trodden and this Port was aged closer to 15 years, spending time aging in 50+ year old, 630 liter, chestnut barrels. Sandra mentioned that chestnut was used as it tends to be more neutral, with very tight grains. Only 3,000 bottles of this wine were produced, and less than 100 have been allocated to Massachusetts. Sandra stated that this Port was intended to bring new people to drinking Port.

At 19.5% ABV, its nose was compelling, with a subtle sense of sweetness amidst dried fruit and nut notes. On the palate, the Port was more dry, with only a hint of sweetness, and possessed a complex and beguiling flavor profile, with elements of dried fruit, cherry, salted nuts, honey, caramel, earthiness, and more. It drank more like a 20 year-old Port, being well balanced and well integrated, and I could have sat there all evening just sipping this Port. I can easily understand how this Port could convince more people to drink it, especially as it was more dry than sweet. This Port also earns my highest recommendation. In time, Wine & Soul will produce a 20 Year-Old Port. Plus, they make vintage Port and their recent 2017 Vintage Port has been garnering many accolades.

Such a compelling food and wine experience, this was but one example of the type of events held at the Boston Wine Festival. Of the other guests I spoke too, they were unanimous in their love for this dinner. Sandra was such an excellent host, and her wines spoke volumes about the quality of their terroir. I found even more reasons to love Portuguese wine. The Wine & Soul wines are currently imported by Boston Wine Co., so I highly recommend you ask for them at your local wine shop.