Wine & Soul: Field Blends, Old Vines & Douro Terroir

My love of Portuguese wines, from Vinho Verde to Port, is well known, and there's much diversity to be found in their wines, from hundreds of indigenous grapes to varied terroirs. I often rave about the great values that can be found in the Portuguese wines, but I've also emphasized that they produce some amazing, albeit more expensive wines, as well. At a recent wine dinner, I experienced for the first time the wines of Wine & Soul and was thoroughly impressed with their quality, complexity and taste. These are wines that earn my highest recommendations and I need to buy some for my own wine cellar.

The Wine & Soul wine dinner, of which I was a media guest, was part of the 31st Annual Boston Wine Festival, said to be the longest running food and wine festival in the country. Chef Daniel Bruce (pictured above), the Executive Chef at the Boston Harbor Hotel, created this festival, which runs from January to March, and each year hosts a series of winemaker hosted dinners, seminars and receptions. These wine dinners often present some of the world's top wines, paired with Chef Bruce's amazing cuisine. I've previously enjoyed a number of dinners prepared by Chef Bruce, and have always been very pleased and satisfied with what he created.

Wine & Soul, which was founded in 2001, is owned by a husband-and-wife team, Jorge Serodio Borges and Sandra Tavares DaSilva. They both possess extensive prior experience in the wine industry. Jorge Serôdio Borges was an oenologist at Niepoort, and also owns the winery Quinta do Passadouro with the Bohrmann family. Sandra has the honor of being the first female winemaker in the Douro, having worked at Quinta do Vale D. Maria in the Douro and at her family’s estate of Quinta da Chocapalha in Estremadura.

Sandra and Jorge eventually decided that they wanted to own their own vineyard, and in 2001, purchased an old Port lodge in the Douro, more specifically in the Cima Corgo's Pinhão Valley. The property had a two-hectare plot of 70+ year old vines, the Pintas vineyard, with over 30 indigenous grapes. Wine & Soul was born. In 2009, they also inherited Quinta da Manoella, an estate planted mainly with very old vineyards, some over a hundred years old. Overall, they now own about 45 acres of vineyards, producing only about 30,000 bottles annually.

Sandra, pictured above, was the special guest at the Wine & Soul dinner, which was attended by about fifty people. She began the dinner with a short talk, mainly about their history and vineyards, and spoke a few more times during the dinner, discussing the various wines. Her family owns the Quinta da Chocapalha in Estremadura, and this is probably what might have initially set Sandra on the winemaking path. She spent a year studying in Italy, as she feels it has much in common with Portugal, and then she began working in the Douro. About 20 years ago, she began working at Quinta do Vale D. Maria and she also met Jorge at that time.

I found Sandra to be personable and charming, humble and knowledgeable, a passionate advocate for her wines. Some of her wines have garnered accolades from the major wine periodicals, such as the 2016 Wine & Soul Manoella being included in the Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines of 2019, but Sandra never mentioned these accolades. It seemed as if she wanted all of the guests to judge the wines on their own, and also because she seems to be a very humble person. To me, that is so much more appealing than having a winemaker drone on and on about their wine scores. It was a real pleasure to chat with her about her wines.

Wine & Soul is very concerned about producing wines that reflect the terroir of their vineyards, which includes wanting to best understand their vineyards. Sandra stated that wine should give you "the feeling that you are there," which is an interesting way of describing the concept of terroir. In addition, they are concerned with old vines and indigenous grapes, and one of their biggest challenges is locating plots of old vines available for purchase. In addition, they are currently seeking organic certification, and use indigenous yeasts, with minimal intervention.

Many of their wines are made from field blends, often consisting of 30+ grapes. Such a fascinating palette from which to create their wines. Portugal has over 300 indigenous grapes, a number of them originally brought by monks who carried cuttings with them when they travelled to Portugal. By using field blends, you're not dependent on any one grape, so are less susceptible to problems with a bad vintage. A field blend provides balance, yet still possesses its own identity. In addition, contrary to what some might think, there isn't much difference in the ripeness levels of the grapes, as plants generally want to pollinate at the same time and thus usually flower together.

Most of their grapes are also foot-trodden, in granite lagares, which is supposed to yield fine, silky tannins as it is a more gentle process on the grapes. This is rarely done in the Douro, and mainly for Port wine, although there are still granite lagares existing from the days of the ancient Romans. Thus, this practice is another way Wine & Soul helps to differentiate itself from other producers.

Interestingly, all of their barrel aging, including for their Ports, is conducted in the Douro, though most other Port producers age their wines elsewhere. The Douro was long considered too warm for barrel aging, but the advent of modern technology has changed the need to age elsewhere. Wine & Soul also owns a 19th century building with stone cellars, for the storage of their hundreds of barrels, which creates a natural coolness that works well for their varied wines.

Before we sat for dinner, we began the evening with a glass of the 2018 Wine & Soul Guru Branco (about $35). Sandra mentioned that about 20 years ago, few people in the Douro were producing white wines, as many claimed the region was too warm to produce good whites. However, in the Douro, there are higher-altitude mountainous areas which are cooler and can produce fine white grapes. Sandra and Jorge found tiny plots, with a field blend, at 600-700 meters high. Inspired by old white Ports, they chose to make this wine, what they claim to be a classic wine with aging potential, one reflective of terroir. Its first vintage was 2004.

This wine is produced from a field blend, from a 60 year old vineyard, which is approximately 25% Viosinho, 25% Rabigato, 25% Codega do Larinho and 25% Gouveio. The soil is a combination of schist (which gives the wine texture and flavors) and granite (which gives the wine its length and purity of flavors). The wine was also fermented and aged in French barriques for about seven months.  With a 12.5% ABV, this wine was fresh, crisp and delicious, with a complex blend of flavors, including peach, grapefruit, mineral notes, and a touch of oak. Medium-bodied, it possessed a pleasing finish and a nice elegance. Would love to pair this wine with seafood, from oysters to cod.

The First Course of our dinner was Slow Braised Pork Belly, in a red wine glaze with smoked King Oyster mushrooms and spinach. Chef Bruce mentioned that the pork belly had been steamed for about seven hours and that the mushrooms had been smoked for about 20 minutes. The silky pork belly, with its mildly sweet glaze, was delicious, enhanced by the smoky earthiness of the mushrooms. This dish was paired with two wines, the 2016 Wine & Soul Manoella and the 2013 Quinta da Manoella Vinhas Velhas.

The 2016 Wine & Soul Manoella (about $22) is a blend of 60% Touriga Nacional, 25% Touriga Franca, 10% Tinta Roriz, and 5% Tinta Francisca from the Quinta da Manoella vineyard, which was planted in 1973. This property has been owned by five generations of Jorge's family, and was initially purchased in the mid-19th century. It now consists of 70 hectares of land, 20 which have vineyards, the rest being forest and their plan is to keep it that way. The grapes for this wine were foot-trodden, and the wine aged for 16 months in used French barriques. At 14.2% ABV, this wine had a beautiful dark red color, with a delightful nose of pleasing aromas. On the palate, it was dry and lush, with tasty flavors of cherry, raspberry and mild spices. There was an earthy element as well, with a lengthy finish, nice acidity, and it paired nicely with the pork belly.

The 2013 Quinta da Manoella Vinhas Velhas (about $75) is a field blend of more than 30 indigenous grape varieties, from a vineyard planted in 1900. The grapes for this wine were foot-trodden, and the wine aged for 20 months in used French barriques. At 14.3% ABV, this wine had a more subtle nose than the other Manoella, but on the palate, it was much bolder, though still possessed of elegance and restraint. The black fruit flavors, like ripe plum and black cherry, were more concentrated, and there was plenty of complexity, with elements of dark spice, chocolate and black tea. A full bodied wine, with a lengthy, lingering finish that thoroughly satisfied. So much going on in this wine, and the smoky mushrooms were a nice companion to this wine.

The Second Course was Seared Arcadian Red Fish, with black rice, sweet onion puree, tomatoes, and petit basil. Chef Bruce found this fish while perusing the choices down at the Fish Pier. It is a sustainable choice, an under-utilized species with a delicious taste. This flaky white fish had a nice weight to it, and the ingredients combined for quite a tasty dish, the acidity of the tomatoes helping to cut the fat of the dish.

This was paired with the 2015 Wine & Soul Pintas Character (about $42) which is made from a field blend of 30+ varieties from the Vale de Mendiz vineyard, which was planted in 1970. The grapes for this wine were foot-trodden, and the wine aged for 18 months in French barriques, 50% new and 50% second-use. At 14.1% ABV, this wine is intended to be softer and more accessible than the flagship Pintas wine. It is a rich and bold wine, yet still elegant and silky, with a tasty blend of black fruit flavors and dark spices. The fruit flavors are most dominant, yet this wine still retains complexity as well as a lengthy, pleasing finish.

The Third Course was a fantastic Char Grilled Colorado Lamb T Bone, with fresh thyme, crosnes, and aged pecorino cream. The lamb was extremely tender, juicy and flavorful, just an excellent cut of meat. And that lamb was a killer pairing with our next wine, the 2017 Wine & Soul Pintas!

The Pintas was the first wine made by Wine & Soul, and the term "pintas" refers to "spots" or "splashes" of wine. The vineyard is over 100 years old, and contains a field blend of over 35 indigenous varieties. In addition, the vineyard has a southern-west exposure, with over 40% elevation slopes, and it located at a high altitude. Their desire was to make a full bodied wine that best showed the terroir of the Douro. As they state, "Our goal is to create wines that express all the character of the traditional vineyards and varieties from the Douro Valley. A balanced wine between the concentration, complexity and elegance.”

The grapes for the 2017 Wine & Soul Pintas (about $90) were foot-trodden, and the wine aged for 22 months in French barriques, 70% new and 30% in second-use. With a 13.7% ABV, this wine first evidenced a seductive aroma, subtle and complex, drawing you into its beauty. On the palate, there was an intriguing and absolutely delicious melange of complex flavors, such as ripe plum, blackberry, blueberry, mild spice notes, a few floral hints, and a touch of earthiness. Full-bodied and bold, yet elegant, with well-integrated tannins and a delightfully lengthy finish. Well-balanced and compelling, this was a superb wine, certainly evidence that Portugal can make world-class wines. It was an amazing pairing with the lamb. This is also a wine that should age well for many years to come, something definitely you should add to your wine cellar. It earns my highest recommendation.

For Dessert, there was a Hazelnut Torte, with Port-glazed figs, pear sorbet, and salted caramel. A wonderful blend of sweet and fruity flavors.

With this dish, we enjoyed a glass of the 2017 Wine & Soul 10 Year Old Tawny Port ($55), which enthralled me. The grapes were foot-trodden and this Port was aged closer to 15 years, spending time aging in 50+ year old, 630 liter, chestnut barrels. Sandra mentioned that chestnut was used as it tends to be more neutral, with very tight grains. Only 3,000 bottles of this wine were produced, and less than 100 have been allocated to Massachusetts. Sandra stated that this Port was intended to bring new people to drinking Port.

At 19.5% ABV, its nose was compelling, with a subtle sense of sweetness amidst dried fruit and nut notes. On the palate, the Port was more dry, with only a hint of sweetness, and possessed a complex and beguiling flavor profile, with elements of dried fruit, cherry, salted nuts, honey, caramel, earthiness, and more. It drank more like a 20 year-old Port, being well balanced and well integrated, and I could have sat there all evening just sipping this Port. I can easily understand how this Port could convince more people to drink it, especially as it was more dry than sweet. This Port also earns my highest recommendation. In time, Wine & Soul will produce a 20 Year-Old Port. Plus, they make vintage Port and their recent 2017 Vintage Port has been garnering many accolades.

Such a compelling food and wine experience, this was but one example of the type of events held at the Boston Wine Festival. Of the other guests I spoke too, they were unanimous in their love for this dinner. Sandra was such an excellent host, and her wines spoke volumes about the quality of their terroir. I found even more reasons to love Portuguese wine. The Wine & Soul wines are currently imported by Boston Wine Co., so I highly recommend you ask for them at your local wine shop.

Krug Champagne: First, Learn Patience (Part 2)

"Krug is a real wine; most champagne is fizzy celebration drink."
--The Los Angeles Times, September 14, 1975, A quote from Remi Krug

As I mentioned yesterday, Krug & Co. was founded by Joseph Krug in 1843, and only six years later, his Champagne was available in the United States. Joseph's philosophy and beliefs about Champagne production still have a significant effect on Krug's current winemakers. The company has remained true to its roots, yet still has looked to the future, innovating when they feel it will lead to better Champagne. That may be an important reason why this House has such a stellar reputation.

Recently, I interviewed Julie Cavil (pictured above), the Wine Director at Krug, delving deeper into the world of Krug, gaining a better understanding of what lies behind the production of their esteemed Champagnes. Julie was personable, sharing numerous stories about her time at Krug, and her passion for Champagne and Krug was more than evident. To her, this is the best job ever and she is quite sincere in her love for Krug and Champagne.

Julie began her career working in customer relations for an advertising agency, but in 2001, desirous of a career change, she moved with her husband to Champagne. She studied winemaking at the University of Reims and worked during four harvests at Moët & Chandon. In 2006, she was hired as a winemaker at Krug. As the Wine Director, she works with four other team members, and she is involved in the production of all of their different Champagnes. She only has praise for her team members.

Compared to some of the other major Champagne Houses, production at Krug is relatively small, possibly around 600,000 cases as contrasted to the millions of cases produced by other Houses. Most of their production is for their Grand Cuvée. Julie stated that Krug possesses the autonomy of the small Grower but the means of a big House. Their production level is likely to remain relatively the same for years to come, with no desire to increase their output. They don't want to sacrifice quality for quantity.

As Julie put it, at Krug, they never blend an element they don't know. Currently, their winemaking team is able to handle the amount of wines and samples they possess, with the ability to properly understand each and every separate element. That is vital when you are blending wines to create Champagne. If they suddenly doubled the amount of samples, they would be overwhelmed, unable to properly devote sufficient time to each sample, Their understanding of the sample wines would suffer and they couldn't properly blend what was needed. They require a certain level of intimacy with the sample wines that cannot be achieved by them past a certain point.

It is a great challenge, as Julie mentioned, to make the very best Champagne, year after year, replicating the same quality. The object of Champagne is to pick and select grapes from all over to produce the desired blend. It is about the expression of the grapes and vineyards, despite annual variations due to vintage. For the blend, you "need strong voices in individual elements" and want to preserve individual typicity, what makes each plot unique.

However, at Krug, there is no compromise permitted when selecting the wines for their blends and Julie provided a fascinating example. Krug had produced about 12,000 bottles of 1999 Clos Mesnil, from one of their top vineyards. The tasting committee sampled this wine on numerous occasions, and Julie mentioned that though it was good, there was something missing from the middle of the palate. Their opinion was that the Champagne didn't meet their standards and they proposed to the President of Krug that the Champagne shouldn't be released. That is a huge statement! The President eventually agree with them, the Champagne wasn't released and most of it ended up being used as a reserve wine. Julie was extremely proud of her decision being backed by the President.

"Krug has body, you have something to eat in Krug, a roundness, a fairly strong bouquet. That's why you can even drink it after coffee."
--The Los Angeles Times, September 14, 1975, A quote from Remi Krug

Julie mentioned that one of the first lessons you learn at Krug is to have patience. The production process is a lengthy one, including at least 7 years of aging for their Grand Cuvée, and even longer, 0-12 years, for their Vintage champagnes. When you consider the addition of reserve wines to each blend, it is easy to see why they sometimes say that at least 20 years go into the production of each bottle of Krug.

Around 1848, Joseph Krug penned a notebook of his beliefs and philosophy on Champagne, giving a sense to what he was doing, one that is still used at Krug. Joseph wrote the notebook for his son, Paul, who was only six years old at the time. In time, Paul would assume the leadership at Krug, bringing an equal passion as his father. Joseph's first belief was that you need good elements for good champagne, and his second belief was that a good House should only create two cuvées of quality, a Good Cuvée and a Cuvée of the Circumstances. Currently at Krug, their first cuvée is their Grand Cuvée and the second is their Vintage. There isn't a hierarchy of quality between these two Champagnes, merely a difference in price.

Everything begins in the vineyard, where Krug seeks the best elements for their Cuvées. Each Clos is the best illustration of the House, presenting 1 plot, 1 year, 1 variation. Their vision of the cuvée is to push each unique plot. They are referred to as a soloist wine, and by the end of harvest they will have about 250 soloist wines. They must respect what they harvest, and fortunately have the luxury of being at the right time at the right plot during harvest. They sleep little during the pre-harvest, as they must taste all of the lots each day before harvest, to monitor the aromatics. Once they detect no more vegetal notes, when the taste of the grapes is fruity, they know they have about 24 hours to pick them all.

However, they will only use the best, as they don't want to make an average wine. For example, the Clos de Mesmil plot is only 1.84 hectares, yet there could be a difference as much as 1.5% alcohol in different parts of that small plot. As such, not all of the grapes are the same, and Krug must differentiate the best.

Everything will then be vilified separately, the preservation of their individuality, best reflective of the specific vineyard. This is a time of close attention to details, of intense monitoring, as a small mistake can ruin everything far too easily. They need a naturally clarified must and Krug is very demanding with all of their pressing houses, keeping them to a 24 hour deadline.

The musts are initially kept in casks, with an average age of 17 years, and Krug owns about 4700 casks. Sometime in November or December, the tasting committee, which is composed of six people, equally split between male and female, will taste all of the musts, which are still young, with an understated personality. Each of the six people has a different personality, and some are more sensitive to certain aromas than others. They know each other well, working as a collective for the blending process. At this point though, no decisions are made, simply initial observations.

Traditional racking is then done and the wines are isolated in small stainless steel vats. At this time, the tasting committee will also taste all of the reserve wines, about 150 in total from 15 different harvests. It won't be until the Spring that the tasting committee will return to the wines from the last harvest. The wines open up more in Spring, and they can witness the evolution of the wines from winter to spring. For one hour each day, they will taste about 15 wines, giving descriptions to each wine, including deciding whether the wine will go into the Grand Cuvée, the reserve wines, or even the Rosé.

Finally, they construct a blueprint for the Cuvée, based on their tasting notes only, and in the last week of March, they create their blend. This year, they will bottle the 174th edition of the Grand Cuvée, which won't be released until 2026. With all of the different wines they have available for blending, it isn't too difficult to make the Grand Cuvée. It is more difficult to decide on whether to bottle a Vintage or not. One of the toughest challenges is choosing whether to use a wine for a Vintage Champagne or to give it to the Reserve wines. There is a definite need to replace Reserve wines to preserve future creators of Grand Cuvée. For example, the 2012 vintage was great, but there was a small yield, and they made the touch choice not to make a Vintage that year and give all of the wine to the Reserve wines.

"Private Cuvee is Krug. A vintage Krug is a marriage between Krug and the year."
--The Los Angeles Times, September 14, 1975, A quote from Remi Krug

I tasted through three Krug wines, including the 2004 Vintage, the Grand Cuvée, and the Rosé. My personal favorite was the Rosé, though all three were excellent and I wouldn't be disappointed drinking any of them.

There is always a story to tell about a Vintage. At Krug, Vintage is how they tell the story of the tasting room after the harvest, how they personally felt about that year. Their Vintage Champagne is always a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. They also prefer to have two different Vintages available in the market for comparison purposes. Julie stated that her favorite more recent Vintage was 1988, which was an austere year. She loves that austerity, feeling it is a signifier of elegance and an excellent aging potential. 1988 is a Vintage for connoisseurs, and will become even better with more time. Julie is also a fan of the 2002 Vintage.

"...the 1928 vintage Krug, which many experts call the champagne of the century."
The Los Angeles Times, September 14, 1975

The 2004 Vintage (about $250) is part of a trilogy of excellent, consecutive years, from 2002 to 2004, and is only the second trilogy in the history, the other being 1988 to 1990. The 2002 to 2004 wasn't released in chronological order but in tasting order, so the 2003 Vintage was released first. The 2004 Vintage, which Julie has given the nickname "luminous freshness," is a blend of 39% Chardonnay, 37% Pinot Noir, and 24% Pinot Meunier. I found this Champagne to be fresh, elegant and complex, with intriguing notes of citrus, brioche, and honey. Intensely aromatic, dry, refreshing, and with a lengthy, pleasing finish. This is an absolutely delicious Champagne, where each sip brings something new to your palate.

The Grand Cuvée (about $180) is usually a blend of about 150-250 wines, and at Krug, they like to use musical references to explain their Champagne. Sometimes they refer to the "music of the year," comparing specific vintages to types of instruments. For example, 1990, which was a hot year, is compared to brass instruments while 1998 is compared to a string quartet. Then, when they put together all of these varied ensembles, they can create a full symphony orchestra in their Grand Cuvée. 

This particular Grand Cuvée is the 167th edition, which is a blend of 48% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, and 17% Pinot Meunier. The blend also contains 191 different wines, including 13 vintages (the oldest from 1995, the newest from 2011), and 42% Reserve wines. Once again, this Champagne was fresh, elegant and complex, and seemed to possess even more complexity than the Vintage. Besides fascinating notes of citrus, tropical fruit, floral elements, candied fruit, and toast, there was a subtle earthiness as well. Excellent acidity, a powerful finish, and this is certainly a Champagne to slowly savor, enjoying each intriguing moment, bringing subtle differences with each sip.

Krug values transparency in most matters, so each bottle of Grand Cuvée now possesses a special ID code on their label, which can be used on the Krug website to provide information about that particular edition of the Grand Cuvée. One of the only pieces of information you won't find is the disgorgment date as they feel it gives the wrong message to consumers.

My favorite of the three Champagnes was the Rosé (about $300), which Julie stated is the toughest blend to produce. For a long time, Krug was opposed to producing a Rosé, as initially Rosé was seen as a simple wine, and not a high end product that would fit within the Krug portfolio. It was the 6th generation which decide to experiment with Rosé, using grapes from the 1976 harvest, which was a hot year. They kept the Rosé a secret as it aged in their cellar. Finally, during a Sunday lunch, they poured some of the Rosé, blind, for their father, Paul Krug, who had long opposed Rosé. He approved of it and Krug finally began to create this blend each year.

Julie stated that the Rosé doesn't possess the same depth as the other blends as it contains far less wines. A significant aspect of the difficulty of producing this wine is the addition of some red wine. Thus, they have to anticipate what the blend will offer after about seven years of aging. The red wine changes everything, making that anticipation more formidable. However, this Rosé was my favorite of the three Champagnes.

This Rosé is the 22nd edition, a blend of 51% Pinot Noir, 17% Chardonnay, and 32% Pinot Meunier. The blend also contains 22 wines, 5 vintages (2005-2010), 47% Reserve wines, and 9% macerated Pinot Noir. Elegant, complex, and subtle, it seduces your palate with its compelling melange of flavors, from red fruits to citrus. It is delicate and fresh, with crisp acidity and pure deliciousness. Each sip tantalizes and satisfies, and will make you yearn for another sip. While it might not possess the depth of the other two Champagnes, it still pleases on many levels. This is a Champagne of romance, a bottle to share with your significant other for celebrations, or simply to make any night even more special.

Krug doesn't produce inexpensive Champagnes, and for most people, they would be a significant splurge. If we look back almost fifty years, we can find a newspaper which addressed this very issue. The Pottstown Mercury, September 8, 1972 (PA) published an article, High Cost of Champagne Due to Process of Making Wine, and primarily used the example of Krug. As the article stated, "Krug is the champagne house that nearly every connoisseur ranks first, as one of three or four favorites, or in a class by itself." The article discussed a number of reasons why Krug incurred significant costs in producing their Champagne, such as the cost of its grapes to its small oak casks. The article concluded, "Such scrupulous rejection of everything but the best, vigilent control, retention of innumerable hand operations, and long years of cellar age result in superb champagne. Naturally it's expensive."

What is the future of Krug? At Krug, they are always questioning their methods, processes, and technology, seeking ways to optimize their work and bring more precision. Despite their strong foundation in the past, in the philosophy of Joseph Krug, they still value technology. However, their primary question when addressing new technology is, will it bring change for the best? And often, they need to wait seven years, when the Champagne ages in the cellar, before determining the effect of many changes. Sustainability is a priority to them and they are always learning more and more about this issue. They also have been accumulating mounds of data about each of their vineyard plots, a repository of information for future generations.

Finally, Julie also mentioned that a dream of hers would be to one day make her own type of Krug. To her, Champagne is charismatic, possessed of great expression. Her vision would be to "try to reconcile all the elements into one," to put the power, elegance and aromatics into "one sip." That sounds like quite the challenge and I hope that Julie gets that opportunity one day.

"Only by blending, do you get balance. It is like a symphony as opposed to a sonata. From beginning to end, we make choices of what fits with our quality."
--Chicago Tribune, August 26, 1976, quote from Remi Krug

From 1865 Selected Vineyards: A Killer Chilean Pinot Noir For Under $20

It's difficult to find a compelling Pinot Noir for under $20. Most under that price point are too simple, wines without character. They may be drinkable but they won't bring a smile to your face or a twinkle to your eye. However, when you find a sub-$20 Pinot Noir of complexity and elegance, a wine that tasted blind would make you think of a $30-$40 wine, then you've struck vinous gold.

Last week, I struck that vinous gold.

I had the pleasure of meeting Matias Cruzat (pictured above), the winemaker for the 1865 label of Viña San Pedro in Chile, for a private tasting of several of his wines. Viña San Pedro is the second largest winery in Chile, having been founded in 1865 in the Curicó Valley by the Correa Albano brothers. The winery has a number of different labels, and in 1997, they created the 1865 label, a nod to the date of their founding. The concept behind that label is to produce single-varietal wines from different terroirs, those which best represent the grapes.

Currently, they produce seven wines under the 1865 Selected Vineyards label, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Syrah, Carmenere, and Cabernet Sauvignon. There are also two higher end categories under this label, including 1865 Special Editions and 1865 Limited Edition. The production of the 1875 wines often include use of concrete eggs (especially for the Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Sauvignon Blanc) and foudres (large wooden casks of French oak, from 1000 to 5000 liters).

Matias has been working for the winery for 4.5 years, and has prior experience working at wineries in California and South Africa. He was born in the U.S., to Chilean parents, as his father studied for his MBA in the U.S. and also worked for Proctor & Gamble in Cincinnati, Ohio. Overall, Matias is personable and engaging, upfront and intelligent. He is also a passionate advocate for his 1865 wines, as well as the wines of Chile.

The 1865 wines I tasted all cost under $20 retail, typically $17.99 at your local wine store, and are imported by United Liquors. At this price point, they are excellent values. Matias stated that as the cost of land and grapes are much lower in Chile, they are able to offer much better prices on their wines than you might find from other regions, such as California and Oregon.

The 2017 1865 Selected Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc is a 100% Sauvignon Blanc from the Santo Domingo vineyard in the Leyda Valley. The vineyard is only about 3.5 kilometers from the coast, one of the closest to the ocean. The vineyard also has primarily granitic soils and many fossilized shells have been found in the soil. The closeness to the ocean allows the grapes to ripen more slowly, leading to more aromatic wines with a strong mineral component. Only about 5000 cases of this wine were produced.

Fermentation takes about a month and about 20% of the grapes spent time in neutral French oak foudres, giving contact with the lees. The 2007 vintage was tough, a warmer vintage. The wine has a pale yellow color with the aroma of citrus and a touch of green pepper, the typical green of Leyda Valley. On the palate, Matias notes that the wine is unlike "New World explosive Sauvignon Blanc."  I found the palate to be complex, with intriguing citrus, including a touch of grapefruit, and mineral notes, a crisp acidity and a touch of green pepper. An interesting white wine with plenty of character at this price point.

The 1865 2015 Selected Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Las Piedras vineyard of the Valle Del Maipo. The Cabernet spent about 12 months in 95% French and 5% American oak, with 50% first use and 50% second use barrels. About 50,000 cases of this wine were produced, so you should be able to find this readily available.

The Cabernet possesses a dark red color with a fruity aroma with hints of spice and a touch of chocolate. On the palate, it is soft and elegant, with low tannins, and a delightful melange of cherry, plum, and blackberry with subtle spice notes and a lengthy finish. Matias mentioned that the Maipo Valley is well known for the soft tannins in its grapes, one of the most important aspects of that area. With its softer tannins, this Cabernet doesn't need a steak to tame its tannins, and can also pair well with everything from a burger to a Bolognese. It might also work with a rich fish like Salmon or Tuna. This is a Cabernet with plenty of character and complexity at this price point, making it a very good value.

And to me, the clear winner of the tasting was the 2016 1865 Pinot Noir. Matias mentioned that he is obsessed with Pinot Noir and it's clear that he has created a stunning example in this wine. He noted that though some Pinot Noir had been planted in Chile many years ago, it is only within the last 10-20 years that anyone has become serious about it. The grapes for this wine come from the El Platero Vineyard in the Valle Del Elqui. About ten years ago, they planted their first vineyards in Elqui, starting with Sauvignon Blanc and then later planting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The vineyard is about 20 kilometers from the ocean and the region is both coastal and Andes, a cool climate region that once grew grapes primarily for producing Pisco.

The wine was aged for about eight months in a combination of foudres, concrete eggs and barrels. It has a 13.5% ABV, as Matias stated he didn't want to make a high-alcohol Pinot Noir. Matias also stated that this wine was produced in the same fashion as he would produce a high-end Pinot Noir. As only 1500 cases of this wine were made, it won't be around too long and could be more difficult to find, but I highly recommend you seek it out.

This Pinot Noir has a light red color, and an alluring and complex nose of red fruits and touches of earth and spice. Those aromas will draw you in and you won't be disappointed once you taste it. The wine is elegant and light bodied, with a complex and fascinating melange of flavors, including bright red cherry, more subdued black cherry, subtle spice notes, and underlying hints of earthiness. There was excellent acidity, mineral notes, and a lingering, satisfying finish. It was well-balanced and compelling, reminding me in different ways to Burgundian Pinot as well as Oregonian Pinot, yet still with its own unique character.

I could not rave enough about this wine. I tasted it without knowing the price and would have thought it easily cost $30-$40, and been worth that price. When I learned it cost less than $20, I was stunned. Initially, I was told it was less than $15, but later research indicated that was the wholesale price and it retails about $17.99. At that price, it is still a killer value and it receives my highest recommendation. I'm planning on stocking up on this wine and encourage all wine lovers to do the same.  

Kudos to Matias for producing such delicious and compelling wines at a great price point.

Laura Catena: Aiming High With Argentina's Wine Advocate

Argentina would be hard pressed to find a better advocate for their wines than Laura Catena. She is intelligent and passionate, personable and lively. In addition, she has one foot in the past, delving into the history of wine and Malbec, and one foot in the future, researching and studying a wide variety of wine-related matters. Her passion for the wines of Argentina is infectious.

I first met Laura five years ago, at Bodega Catena Zapata in Mendoza, Argentina, and then saw her again at a recent, media wine tasting and luncheon at Bistro du Midi in Boston. After the passage of those five years, Laura's passion for the wines of Argentina hadn't dimmed even the slightest. If anything, it might have even grown some, possibly due to the results of the experiments and research that have been conducted during those past five years.

At the recent tasting, one of the most moving moments came during lunch, amidst more casual talk about children, colleges and video games. As a bit of background, Nicola Catena, Laura's great-grandfather, came to Argentina, from Italy, in 1898, and planted vineyards in 1902, with Malbec being one of his first vines. Nicola was a handsome man, enamored with having his picture taken, and Laura is especially fond of one of those family photos, showing Nicola with his six children. It was only recently that Laura learned something from her father, Nicolás, that has caused her to look at that family photo in a much different way.

When Nicola passed away, he left the winery to his sons but left nothing for his daughters, figuring a husband would provide for them. Those were certainly very different times, and if Laura had been born during that time, she probably never would have started working at the winery. This would have been a great loss to Bodega Catena Zapata, and the wine industry in general. She also might not have not become a physician.

This was an unsettling revelation to Laura, but also shows how far society has progressed during the last hundred years. There certainly is need for continued progress in this respect and Laura is a shining example of the benefits of such progress. Nowadays, there are numerous women involved in the wine industry, contributing significantly to its success, but more women still are needed. Women thinking about entering the wine industry can look to Laura Catena as a positive role model.

One of Nicola's sons was Domingo, born in 1910, and he eventually married Angelica Zapata in 1934. Domingo and Angelica were the parents of Nicolás Catena Zapata, Laura'a father. Angelica was the head mistress of a local school and was very much the intellectual mentor of Nicolás. When he was 18 years old, he was undecided whether he should get in the family winery business. He had an interest in physics and asked Angelica for advice on what he should do. She didn't like business and recommended he pursue physics, seeking to win a Nobel Prize. Quite a goal for such a young man.

The lesson is illustrative of the Catena legacy of aiming high. Though Nicolás ultimately didn't get into physics, ending up in the winery business, his goals always remained lofty, to make some of the best wine in the world. It wasn't enough to seek to make the best wine in Argentina. He had to make world-class wine, to be able to compete with the best from any other wine region. That legacy has clearly extended to Laura, who also is driven to produce some of the best wine in the world.

In addition, the story of Angelica and Nicolás is also illustrative of another point which Laura feels is very important, that women should mentor men and that men should mentor women. This mentoring probably helped her father be willing to place the future of the winery in Laura's hands.

When Laura was younger, she didn't have any intention of getting into the family winery. She wanted to become a doctor, eventually achieving that goal. While she was attending school, her father gave her a credit card to use to purchase wine and good glassware. She tasted many high-end wines, which were far more affordable at the time, so she acquired much wine experience and knowledge. As she spoke French fluently, her father asked her to accompany him on wine trips to France. As time passed, Laura's passion for wine grew and her decision to join the family winery might have been sealed in New York.

Laura attended the New York Wine Experience on behalf of Bodega Catena Zapata, which was the first South American winery ever to be invited to this event. She became frustrated as so many people just passed by her booth without stopping to taste the wines. She saw this as a personal challenge; how do you get people excited about the wine of Argentina? This led her to see a greater role at the winery, and Nicolás was more than happy to have her involved, letting her take over any aspect she so desired.

As her father has said to her, "You got the rebel in you."

The centerpiece of the tasting event was an examination of the Adrianna Vineyard, a South american "Grand Cru" which is claimed to be the most studied vineyard in the world. Planted in 1992-1996, the vineyard is located at an elevation of close to 5000 feet. The area is of alluvial formation, the site of a former dried river bed and consists of stripes of different soils. The above map is the first time this map has been revealed, indicating 11 different marked lots, and showing where their Adrianna wines are sourced. This is a cool climate vineyard and in some respects, the choice of this location was due to luck, though tempered by their experience.

Bodega Catena Zapata is all about research and scientific experimentation, trying to better understand terroir and the reasons why some wines are greater than others. For example, there are currently no known studies about the reasons why limestone is good for vines, so they have undergone their own study, using Malbec vines, to try to resolve this issue. There are plenty of theories, but they all lack sufficient evidence. In addition, they are conducting studies on the nature of the microbes in soil. They are even collaborating with European scientists on wine studies.

Laura mentioned that "We use science to perceive nature not to change it." All of her research is directed to this objective, not to find a way to manipulate the grapes and wine, but to find out the best way to express the grapes in the wine. It is more about understanding not seeking ways to exploit the grape. A very worthy goal.

We tasted five different wines from the Adrianna Vineyard, including two Chardonnays and three Malbecs. All five of these high-quality wines are intended to reflect the different terroirs of this vineyard, and the Malbecs have never been available in the U.S. before. These wines are indicative of the potential of Argentina, presenting wines that can compete against the best wines from around the world. These are pricey, splurge wines, which will age well in your cellar or impress your friends when you share a glass with them.

As for the two Chardonnays, they produce under 400 cases and Laura noted that they are popular in Argentina. Both Chardonnays are fermented in 2nd and 3rd use French, though even a small amount of new oak wouldn't adversely affect these wines. Laura also stated that "high end Chardonnay is for thinking."

The 2013 Catena Zapata White Bones Chardonnay ($125) comes from a 2.6 hectare lot, at an elevation of 4757 feet, in the Adrianna Vineyard. The lot has a shallow topsoil with calcareous deposits of marine fossils and rocks covered with calcareous. The wine is called White Bones cause it looks like there are bones in the soil. It is produced from 100% Chardonnay, with about two-thirds undergoing malolactic fermentation, and is aged in French oak for about 12-16 months.

It is an impressive wine, likely to bring to mind a beautiful Chablis. It is bright and crisp, with a delicious and complex melange of citrus, pear, apple, mineral notes, and a hint of saltiness. It is medium-bodied with a long and pleasing finish. This is a wine that aches for seafood, from oysters to scallops, an elegant wine that you should slowly sip and enjoy. This was my personal favorite of the two Chardonnays.

The 2013 Catena Zapata White Stones Chardonnay ($95) comes from a 2.2 hectare lot, at an elevation of 4757 feet, in the Adrianna Vineyard. The lot has no topsoil and plenty of rocks covered with calcareous. The wine is called White Stones because of all the white rocks on the surface, which make the soil a bit warmer than other lots in the vineyard. It is produced from 100% Chardonnay, with about two-thirds undergoing malolactic fermentation, and is aged in French oak for about 12-16 months.

This is also an impressive wine though it might remind you more of a Montrachet. This is a more full-bodied wine, with a pleasing creaminess and ripe apple and pear flavors as well as hints of baking spice and vanilla. There is good acidity, less minerality and the finish lingers for a very long time, satisfying our palate.

The next three wines are all cool climate Malbec, which possess more acidity and will age well. On the other hand, warmer climate Malbec tends to be more jammy. Malbec is not a high yielding grape and it is susceptible to frost, which makes growing it at higher elevations a riskier endeavor. It is also a delicate grape so you cannot do a long maceration as you would with Cabernet Sauvignon.

Laura is fascinated about the unanswered questions behind the origin of Malbec. It is known Malbec extends back at least to the Middle Ages and eventually was reborn in Argentina. However, she wants to know its complete origins and history, and has been doing some historical research seeking those answers. She believes that "wine history is the future," and I agree with the importance of history in assisting the understanding of grapes and wine.

A common question that Laura receives, and which is probably asked of many Argentina producers, is "What comes after Malbec?" In some ways, it is an insulting question, implying the assumption that Malbec isn't a worthy grape, that it is merely a stepping stone to "better" grapes. Why should that be the case? As Laura put it, "you wouldn't ask a Burgundy producer what comes after Pinot Noir." Malbec can certainly produce world class wine and as Laura says, "stand by your grape." The three Malbecs from the Adrianna Vineyard are examples of the potential of Malbec, and should be able to silence those critics who don't see Malbec as a worthy grape.

In describing these three Malbecs, Laura stated that they "taste big but are still elegant and delicate." I would agree with her characterization, feeling that these wines possess much in common with fine Bordeaux, especially those Merlot based ones which have less tannins. Each possessed its own uniqueness though their commonalities united them in certain respects too. They are all still young and probably would benefit from being set aside for a time to age more.

The first Malbec was the 2012 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard Fortuna Terrae ($136) which comes from a 5 hectare lot, at an elevation of 4482 feet, in the Adrianna Vineyard. The lot has two feet of topsoil, with 1/2 foot of limestone and rocks covered with calcareous. The wine is called Fortuna Terra which means "luck of the earth."

The second Malbec was the 2012 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard River Stones ($160) which comes from a 1.4 hectare lot, at an elevation of 4560 feet, in the Adrianna Vineyard. The lot has one foot of topsoil and rocks covered with calcareous. The soil is similar to that in the lot for the White Stones, though this lot has poorer soil.

The last Malbec was the 2011 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard Mundus Bacillus Terrae ($350) which comes from a 1.4 hectare lot, at an elevation of 4560 feet, in the Adrianna Vineyard. The lot has two feet of topsoil, calcareous deposits of marine fossils, and rocks covered with calcareous. The name Mundus Bacillus Terrae means "elegant microbes of the earth."

In general, all three wines were complex and intriguing, elegant and muscular, the type of wines you sit and ponder. They shared flavors of black fruits and spice, with good acidity, some minerality, and lengthy finishes. My personal favorite of the three was the River Stones, as it appealed to my palate the most, though I enjoyed all three of them. 

With the holidays approaching, these are the type of wines worth the splurge. 

After the tasting of the 5 Adrianna Vineyard wines, we enjoyed a pleasant lunch, accompanied by two additional wines. The first was the 2013 Catena Alta Historic Rows Malbec ($60), an inky dark wine with plenty of complexity and a luxurious taste, a hedonistic pleasure of black fruits, ripe plum, low tannins, good acidity, and some subtle spice notes. An excellent wine which I would highly recommend. Will be a nice accompaniment to meat and game. The other wines was the 2010 Nicolas Catena Zapata ($135), a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Malbec. It was a bigger, more muscular wine, but still possessed of its own elegance.

My lunch began with the superb Lamb Carpaccio, with a cured egg yolk, castelvetrano olive, and rice crisps. The venison was silky smooth, with a rice, meaty flavor and went well with the Malbec. I easily could have devoured several dishes of this lamb.

My entree was a Flat Iron Steak Frites, with a truffle vinaigrette, and the beef was tender and flavorful, with nice crisp fries. It took went very well with the Malbec, as well as the Blend. Bistro du Midi never disappoints me when it comes to their cuisine.

Laura's story, and that of Bodega Catena Zapata, is compelling on many levels. It is an inspirational tale for all, although especially women, and the lesson of aiming high resonates for all of us. Other wine regions can also benefit from the example of this winery. Argentina is already well known with many consumers for inexpensive Malbec wines, as well as Torrontes and Bonarda. It is time that consumers also learn that Argentina can produce some amazing higher-end wines too, such as Malbec and Chardonnay. Its wines can compete with other high-end wines from all across the world.

Kudos to Laura Catena, who has the rebel in her.

BISq: Parparoussis Winery & Greek Delights

"When a man drinks wine at dinner, he begins to be better pleased with himself."
--Plato

The ancient Greeks had a significant wine culture and you can catch a glimpse of that history in the wines of Greece. Need more motivation? Let me provide you Ten Reasons To Drink Greek Wine, plenty of incentives to be more adventurous and seek out the intriguing and delicious wines of Greece. If you get a chance to drink Greek wines, take it.

BISq, the sister restaurant of Bergamot (which is one of my favorites), held their first wine dinner, a Greek wine event, showcasing the wines of the Parparoussis Winery. I attended as a media guest and it was my first visit to Bisq, and certainly won't be my last. Chef Dan Bazzinotti created a special five-course dinner, with Greek roots, to accompany the Greek wines. In short, Chef Bazzinotti presented plenty of tasty food which paired well with the various wines.

Bisq itself is a small, intimate restaurant with an open kitchen and a small bar in a separate room at the back of the restaurant. It has a fun, casual vibe which should appeal to many diners. It has received some raves and many positive reviews and I understand the allure.

In 1974, the Parparoussis Winery was founded in Achaia by Athanassios (Thanassis) Parparoussis (pictured above). The region of Achaia is located n the northwestern part of the Peloponnese of Greece. The winery is situated in the Bozaitika neighborhood of Patras, the capital city of Achaia. Patras is sometimes called Greece's "Gate to the West" as it is a very busy port for trade to the rest of Europe.

Athanassios studied oenology at the University of Bourgogne in Dijon, France and after graduation worked for a time at Moet & Chandon. When he moved back home to Patras, he decided to start his own winery and initially planted both indigenous grapes and international grapes but in time, he began moving toward primarily indigenous grapes, to promote the uniqueness of these Greek grapes. Currently, the winery owns vineyards at Bozaitika and Movri Achaias and also purchases some grapes from about seven small growers. Their vineyards are planted with about 55% white grapes and 45% red. In addition, they practice organic viticulture, though they are not certified, and use indigenous yeasts.

His father, who is still alive at  106 years old, was originally a spirits distiller and Athanassios said he is "always a happy guy." They still have a distillery on their estate, using it to make their own eau de vie. Athanassios continues to work at the winery and is now helped by two of his daughters, Erifili and Dimitra. Athanassios said that "a winemaker only gets one chance a year to make wine, so he is always experimenting." One of his current experiments is a 100% Assyrtiko, which is more austere and complex.

Athanassios acknowledged that climate change has been in issue, though the summers generally have remained hot and dry. The primary problem is in the fall when it becomes a serious guessing game of when the rains will come. Thus, they need to make careful judgments of when to harvest the grapes to avoid those rains, though there is little they can do to combat this problem. The goal of Athanassios is to produce elegant wines and not "body builders," high alcohol wines.

Though Athanassios spoke little English, it was clear he was personable and passionate, and there were plenty of people at our table able to translate his words. I have deep respect for his philosophy of concentrating on indigenous grapes, especially as Greece has an abundance of such grapes, each with their own unique profile. I also admire that he is still working after forty years at the winery, still enamored with wine making.

Our first wine of the evening was the 2014 Ta Dora tou Dionyssou ‘The Gifts of Dionysos’ (about $23), one of the most interesting wines of the night. The wine was made from 100% Sideritis, from 25 year old vines. This is a rare Greek grape, one I had not previously tasted. Also known as Himoniatiko and Akaki, it is a late-ripening, pink-skinned grape, and its name derives from the term sidero, which means "iron," possibly because of its minerality or maybe its thick skin.  The winery produces about 25% of all Sideritis wines in Greece and are one of the only ones to make it a varietal wine.

As an aside, it should be noted that many of the soils of their vineyards possess plenty of trace metals, due to a large sulfur eruption centuries ago. The effect is that their wines tend to have a strong minerality to them.

This wine was fermented at low temperatures, has an alcohol content of 12.5%, and only about 1500 cases were made. It does not see any oak, and Athanassios said Sideritis doesn't possess the power to handle oak aging. It was a bright yellow color with some greenish notes and had an alluring aroma of citrus. On the palate, it was very crisp, dry and possessed tasty flavors of citrus and pear with briny and mineral notes. As the Sideritis vineyard is about 5 kilometers from the sea, it picks up a briny element. It would be an excellent seafood wine, from oysters to grilled cod.

The winery also makes Sideritis Rosé and an Eau de Vie with Sideritis, aging it for 12 years in Limousin oak casks (though it is not yet available in the U.S.).

Our first food course was a plate of House-cured Bresaola with salt-roasted beets, kohlrabi, whipped goat feta, & sunflower seed. A pleasing dish of different flavors and textures, especially the salty beef and creamy feta. The Sideritis did well with this dish.

The 2010 Ta Dora tou Dionyssou ‘The Gift of Dionysos’ CAVA (about $27) is a blend of 75% Assyrtiko and 25% Athiri, both from 25 year old vines. It was vinified in new oak barrels and sat sur lie for about 10 months. Only about 12 cases were produced and the wine has an alcohol content of 13.5% ABV. With a bright yellow color, this was a rounder, more full bodied- and complex wine than the Sideritis. With pear, melon and honey notes, there were some subtle spicy elements, a nice minerality and a lengthy finish. Good acidity helps to make this food friendly, and Athanassios said it would work with both seafood and meats.

The second courses was Kakavia, a Greek fish soup with cockles, striped bass, whole prawn, and escarole. The broth was compelling and the CAVA was a nice pairing with the fresh seafood.

The 2011 Oenofilos (about $26) is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon & 30% Mavdrophane, both from 25 year old vines. It was aged for at least 12 months in 80% new French oak, has an alcohol content of 13.5%, and about 1000 cases were produced. Athanassios noted that many Greeks are Francophiles and in the past, there was a Cabernet Sauvignon craze in Greece when many wineries planted the grape, including Athanassios. He currently only has a small amount of Cabernet remaining as his focus is more on indigenous grapes.

This was a pleasant wine, with dark berry flavors, mild tannins, spice notes, and good acidity. There were some mineral notes, which differs from many other Cabernets. However, though tasty, it wasn't a particularly exciting wine, and for the most part, you might think it came from almost any wine region.

We moved onto the next course, Foraged Mushrooms with mustard green parpardelle, parsnip, and egg yolk. With lots of earthy and umami flavors, this dish was a winner and the Oenofilos was able to stand up to the bold flavors.

The 2010 Nemea Reserve (about $50), made from 100% Agiorgitiko, was certainly an impressive wine. The grapes are from 20 year old vines from a eight hectare property in Gymno, a tiny vineyard commune in Nemea. The wine is aged for about 24 months in French oak, has an alcohol content of 13.5%, and is only made in exceptional years. Prior to 2010, the last vintage had been 2005, and there will be vintages for 2012 and 2013.  This wine was like in some ways a fine Burgundy but with its own exotic component. It was complex and velvety, with a delicious melange of red and black fruits, with mineral notes, earthy aspects and herbal elements. Well balanced, silky tannins, and a long and satisfying finish. With lamb, this was superb. Highly recommended.

Chef Dan Bazzinotti prepared an amazing Whole Roast Leg of Lamb and once it was sliced on your plate, it was accompanied by roasted garlic jus, kalamata olive, caramelized leek, and wheat berries. The lamb was as tender as butter, with plenty of rich lamb flavors, yet not gamey ones. I probably could have devoured that entire leg myself. Simple perfection.

The 2010 Muscat de Rio Patras (about $40) is made from 100% Muscat and is not fortified. Made in an ancient manner, the grapes are first dried in the sun for ten days and then they are vinified. This dessert wine is nicely balanced, with good acidity to balance its sweetness. It is rich in the mouth, with pleasing flavors of peach, tropical fruit, honey, and dried fruit notes. It is all you want in a dessert wine, and will impress any wine lover.

For dessert, we enjoyed an Olive Oil Cake with kataifi, orange, and blue cheese ice cream. For me, the star of the dish was the ice cream, especially as I love blue cheese. It was tangy and sweet, combining well with the soft cake and crunchy kataifi. A fine ending to a delicious meal.

In general, the wines of Parparoussis provide value for their price point, offering complexity, intriguing flavor profiles and a fine taste. Concentrating on indigenous Greek grapes, practicing organic viticulture and using indigenous yeasts, the winery has a compelling philosophy too. These aren't entry level Greek wines, but if you started your Greek wine experience with these wines, you would be impressed. Seek out the wines of Parparoussis and get a taste of history.

And check out Bisq too, and learn why so many people are enamored with this new restaurant.

Schoenheitz Winery: A Taste Of Beauty

A taste of beauty. A war torn wine region. High taxes. A wine culture imploding. Sexism and wine study. A salmon head. Japanese vinegar flies. Munster cheese.

What a fascinating evening of food, wine and conversation with Dominique and her son Adrien Schoenheitz (pictured above) of the Schoenheitz Winery. I was invited, as a media guest, to dine with them and Andrew Bishop of the Oz Wine Company at Bergamot in Somerville.

The Schoenheitz Winery is located in the Alsace region of France, and as I've said time and time again, Alsatian wines are generally not on the radar of the average consumer but they should be. They often offer excellent value, along with high quality and great taste. Back in 2013, the NV Schoenheitz Cremant d' Alsace made my list of the Top Ten Wines Under $15 so I was excited to taste more of their wines.

The word "Schoenheitz" roughly translates as "a taste of beauty," and may even be of Austrian origin. Their winery is located in the middle of the village of Wihr-au-Val, near the Vosges Mountains, in the Munster Valley (the home of Munster cheese). Wihr-au-Val, with a population of about 1300, is actually the largest village in the valley. Schoenheitz is the only winery in the village and there are maybe only two other wineries in the whole valley. There are some other vine growers, but they generally work for cooperatives.

Munster Valley was originally known as the Val de Saint Gregorie, a name given to it by Irish monks who settled in the area and wished to honor Pope Gregory I. Before the village of Wihr-au-Val existed, Duke Bonifacius constructed a hunting lodge on the land in the later part of the 7th century. In time, a village built up around the lodge, initially being known as Bonifacii Villare but eventually becoming Wihr-au-Val. Around 1100, the land became the property of the Ribeaupierre families. During the Middle Ages, the vineyards in this region belonged to the Ribeaupierre as well as the Habsbourg families, and the region had a reputation for producing quality wines.

Alsace has been a hotly contested region throughout the centuries, the center of various wars, and the territory has changed hands between Germany and France numerous times. Maybe the most devastating conflict in the Munster Valley was the Thirty Years War, a series of wars in Central Europe spanning much of the first half of the 17th century. The conflicts were so intense that approximately 90% of the population of Wihr-au-Val died or moved on, and it took three generations before the population returned to its pre-conflict amount.

During the first half of the 20th century, the region was wracked by both World Wars. The first World War destroyed many vineyards in the region but the second World War annihilated the village, leaving it as rubble and ash. Prior to World War II, nearly all of the families in the village grew grapes, though there were only about five wineries. After the war, everything needed to be rebuilt and wine growing was not as important for most people, many who had moved to work at factories in the cities.

During the 1970's, Henri Schoenheitz Sr. chose to try to bring back a vineyard, which entailed lots of labor and effort. And in 1980, Henri Jr. and Dominique, after having graduated from oenology and viticulture school, helped out with the harvest.and the start of the winery. Dominique, who is from Beaujolais, had an agricultural upbringing and always wanted to work with nature. She planned to go to agricultural school and her first choice of study was foresty, however sexism reared its ugly head when she learned that women were not permitted into the foresty program. She decided to enter viticulture instead.

Though she had a little work experience with vineyards in Beaujolais, she still knew little about wine. She quickly became fascinated with all aspects of wine, realizing that it was something she could continue to learn her whole life. She loves discovering something new and stated that she is a very curious person. Her passion for wine was more than evident during dinner, and that passion has infected her son, Adrien, too,

At present, their vineyards constitute about 16 hectares, and are located on steep slopes with a southern exposure. Most of their soils are granitic, some with more clay than others. Everything is hand harvested and yields average about 50 hectoliters. They practice sustainable agriculture and want to do as little manipulation as possible during the winemaking process.

About 31% of their vineyards are planted with Riesling, 21% with Gewurztraminer and 15% with Pinot Noir. Other grapes include Pinot Gris, Pnot Blanc, Muscat and Sylvaner. They produce about 7,000 cases annually, making just over 20 wines, most only 100-200 cases each year. Their best selling wine is their Riesling. About 50% of their wines are sold at the winery and they export only about 20%, with half of that going to the U.S., and the rest to places like Belgium, Ireland, and Australia. They currently do not export to Asia.

Many of their white wines are available in Massachusetts through Oz Wine Company but their Pinot Noir is not yet available. Though 15% of their vines are Pinot Noir, it constitutes only 10% of their production because of the vines' low yields. They currently produce three single vineyard Pinot Noirs, and they are available on the West Coast and New York, so hopefully they will soon make it to Massachusetts.

It might surprise you to know that the average cost of a vineyard in Alsace, 100K-200K Euros per hectare, is the second highest in France, lower only than Champagne. Alsace vineyards, on average, are even more expensive than those in Burgundy or Bordeaux. Though it would seem that the Schoenheitz vineyards would be a valuable gift for Adrien, the next generation, once Henri and Dominique retire, it won't be that easy. Due to the high rates of the tax system in France, such property transfers can be cripplingly expensive and is contributing to the decline in small, family estates. Domonique noted that they might have to sell off some of their land to pay for the taxes to transfer the others to Adrien. That is a sad situation.

Wine in France has taken another major hit as well. Despite wine being an integral aspect of French culture, it has now been labeled as a drug, making it much tougher to advertise, promote and educate. This is seriously hurting French wineries, which has also contributed to the decrease in French wine consumption. One of the enemies of the French wine industry is the National Association for the Prevention of Alcoholism & Addiction (NAPAA), which has tried to limit wine advertising and raise taxes on alcohol. I could sense Dominique's frustration with these problems, and it's puzzling to a degree how a country such as France could fall so far from its vinous roots.

There is still much positivity in Adrien, and there was clear passion in his voice as he described some of the winemaking experiments he has been engaged in at the winery. One of his primary projects has been with the aging of Pinot Gris, using both Acacia and oak barrels. It seems that he has many ideas for the future, and the winery seems to have a positive outlook, despite the problems posed by the bureaucracy of France. I wish Adrien much luck.

Dominique discussed some of their recent vintages, noting also that there have been more climatic anomalies in recent years, which is likely due to climate change. In general, this has led to lower yields which have led to greater concentration and a higher alcohol content. 2010, which was very cold, led to wines which will age very well while 2011 was maybe too warm so that the wines won't age as well. Both 2012 and 2013 vintages will age well, and 2012 wines will also drink very well now.

This past vintage, 2014, was especially rough due to an invasion at the end of August by Japanese vinegar flies. Usually, vinegar flies cannot break through the skin of the grape but this new species is able to do so, planting their eggs in the grapes. Birds then become a serious problem as they want to eat those grapes. This led to the loss of about 2/3 of their harvest, especially the red grapes, and it will be their most expensive harvest for a small yield. The quality of the remaining grapes is still good and will lead to excellent wines. Pesticides aren't effective as even if you kill 90% of them, the other 10% will each still lay about 400 eggs, and they will become adults within a week of hatching. The main defense against them is a cold winter.

We began our wine tasting with one of the two Cremants d' Alsace they produce. The NV Cremant:d'Alsace ($20) is made from 100% Auxerrois which is aged on the lees for about two years. It doesn't undergo malolactic fermentation and has a low dosage, only 3 grams of sugar. This is an impressive sparkling wine, with a silky creaminess, lots of bright fruit flavors, good acidity and a touch of minerality. This is an excellent, less expensive alternative to Champagne which is also more dry than some inexpensive and sweeter Proseccos. Drink one glass of this Cremant and you'll crave another, and another.

The NV Edelzwicker ($15), which means "noble blend," is an interesting blend of Chasselas, Sylvaner, Auxerrois, Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris & Gewurztraminer (with proportions that change every year). This white wine, with an alcohol content of 12%, comes in a 1 liter bottle as Alsatian law prohibits them from selling wine in a box. The liter bottle is less expensive and a good choice for restaurants, especially as this wine is designed to be something casual for food. This aromatic wine is light, dry and easy drinking with pleasant citrus and mineral notes. A very good wine at this price point, it has more character than many similarly priced wines from other regions. As an aside, all of the Schoenheitz wines are made to accompany food.

Dinner began with a shared Salmon Head appetizer, a special of the evening, and it was quite compelling with tender meat, crispy skin and a delicious blend of flavors. It worked well with the wines. It also made for a cool presentation.

We also had a Charcuterie plate, an assortment of their homemade items, which are always a treat. I've had their charcuterie dishes before, and they showcase their skills in creating balanced and flavorful meats and spreads.

The 2013 Pinot Blanc Val Saint Gregoire ($16-$17) is made from 100% Auxerrois, and is a wine that brings to mind spring and summer. Despite the mounds of snow visible outside the windows of Bergamot, if you closed your eyes and sipped some of this wine, you could momentarily transport yourself a few months ahead, to warmer temperatures. With a rounder and slightly creamy texture, this wine presents tasty flavors of melon and pear, with a balanced acidity and a pleasing finish. An excellent food wine.

My main entree was a Sea Bream a la Plancha, another excellent piece of fish, tender and flavorful with a nice, crunchy skin. There is a nice depth of flavor to the sauce, and all of the ingredients meshed very well.

We moved onto two vintages of their Riesling. The 2012 Riesling Herrenreben ("vines of noble means") are made from their oldest vines, which are about 45 years old. Their granite soil is at a very high elevation and the soil is also rich in minerals. I should also note that Dominique said that their rieslings do not acquire a petrol note as they age. I was thoroughly impressed with this Riesling, finding it to be clean, fresh and dry, with a rich minerality, excellent acidity and light citrus notes. This is supposed to be a vintage more for wine lovers while the 2013 Riesling Herrenreben should be more acceptable to the average consumer. The 2013 has a fuller body, brighter fruit flavors and less mineral notes. It still has good acidity but is not as lean as the 2012. My personal preference is for the 2012, as I loved its intense minerality.

The final wine of the evening was the 2012 Pinot Gris Holder ($28) , a lightly sweet wine meant to accompany our dessert. With plenty of acidity, this was a well balanced wine with an aromatic and floral nose. On the palate, it is more lush with tropical fruit flavors and a few herbal notes. Dominique said that this wine is "still a baby"and will age well.

For dessert, I chose the “Hot” Chocolate, which has Spiced Chocolate Ganache, Maple-Almond Butter, Salt-n-Pepper Popcorn, Cocoa Nib Marshmallows, and Popcorn Ice Cream. It probably wasn't the best choice to pair with the Pinot Gris, but it was an amazing dish, a great blend of sweet and salty, with a nice mix of textures as well. Highly recommended.

You must appreciate the sustained efforts of this small winery which has been beset with numerous, significant problems, from the bureaucracy of France to the harvest damage from flies. Despite these obstacles, their passion remains strong, and they still look forward to the future. We need to support such small wineries, especially when they produce quality wines. The Schoenheitz are excellent values, taste great and are readily available in Massachusetts. I highly recommend you check them out and give your support to such a worthy winery. In addition, check out other Alsatian wines, some of the best wines you aren't drinking yet.