Showing posts with label alsace. Show all posts
Showing posts with label alsace. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 22, 2021

2021: Top Ten Wines Over $20

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?


As 2021 has arrived, it's time to reflect upon the past year, to remember and savor pleasant memories. I've already posted a few of my annual Favorite Lists, including My Favorite Restaurants, My Favorite Food-Related Items, and Top Ten Wines Under $20. It's now time for my list of Top Ten Wines Over $20

This list includes wines that not only I enjoyed, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines that I've tasted this past year. 

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I strongly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers would also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local region, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws. 

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1) 2019 Ritosa Malvazija Istarska ($22)
This Croatian white wine, from the Istrian region, thoroughly impressed me. Made from 100% Malvazija Istarska, the wine has a 13% ABV, and was very aromatic, with pleasant floral and spice notes. My first sip brought a smile to my face. It was complex and compelling, with a wonderful melange of harmonious flavors. It was fresh and crisp, refreshing and satisfying with a moderately lengthy finish. On the palate, it was fruity (especially peach and pear) and floral, spicy and with a nice minerality. There was so much going on in this wine, and all of it was delicious. I could easily sip this on its own, relaxing outside on a warm summer day, but it would also be a fine accompaniment with seafood, light chicken dishes, and cheese. 

2) 2017 Quinta da Baseira Tinto Bom ($22)
This Portuguese wine is produced from 100% Tinta Nacional, also known as Vinhão or Sousao. The grapes for this wine are trod by foot in steel vats, and aged in stainless steel for about three years. With a 13% ABV, the wine is also unfined, unfiltered, and has no added So2. It is more of a natural wine, intended to show the terroir of the vineyard. On the nose, there were interesting red fruit aromas with a hint of earthiness. It was medium-bodied, with a medium-red color, less dark than expected, and on the palate it was light, crisp and refreshing, with a mild effervescence, and flavors of red and black berries, and an earthy undertone. It possessed an intriguing taste, complex and delicious, with a lengthy and pleasing finish. Simply delicious. Serve slightly chilled, and enjoy on its own or with anything grilled.

3) 2019 Les Vins Pirouettes Eros by Vincent ($25)
An "orange" wine from Alsace! This wine is a blend, of 20 year old grapes from a Biodynamic vineyard, of 40% Pinot Gris, 40% Riesling, and 20% Sylvaner. The grapes are fermented on the skins for about 25 days, and the pink color of the wine comes from the Pinot Gris, which is a pink-colored variety. The wine is also aged on the lees in large foudre for about eight months. On the nose, there's an intriguing aroma of spice, citrus, and apples, although there are hints of even more. And on the palate, there's a compelling and complex melange of flavors, such a joy in the mouth. It is primarily savory, with baking spices, pepper, black tea, and more, combined with a variety of fruits, from citrus to pineapple. It is crisp, dry, well-balanced and with a pleasing, lengthy finish. Each sip brings something a little different to your mouth, and this is a wine you can slowly savor and enjoy. 

4) 2016 Vina Skaramuca Plavac Mali Dingac ($24)
Another Croatian wine, this red is made from 100% Plavac Mali, organically grown, and made with natural yeasts. It is aged for 12 months in large 3000L barrels, aged for another 6 months in the bottle, and has a 14% ABV. and is in a bigger, bolder style. This wine tends more to richer, black fruit flavors, like plum and black cherry, with an ample spicy element, strong tannins, and a touch of earthiness. A lengthy finish, nicely balanced, and quite tasty. This is a wine to pair with hearty dishes, from steak to stews. Or some wild boar. 
I explored a number of Nova Scotian wines this year, and was pleased to find so many tasty wines. This Rosé is a blend of Pinot Meunier, L'Acadie Blanc and Frontenac Noir. The wine was fermented in stainless steel and has only an 11% ABV. The Rosé had a nice pale pink color with a delightful nose of red fruits and a touch of herbal accents. On the palate, it was crisp, dry and clean, with juicy red fruit flavors of strawberry, watermelon and peach, with subtle touches of herbs. It was refreshing and delicious, with a moderately long finish. It was tasty on its own, but would also pair well with a variety of foods. 

6) NV Blomidon Cremant ($28) 
Another Nova Scotian wine, this is from a winery from which I've enjoyed a number of their wines. This Crémant, produced in the Méthode Traditionnelle, is a blend of Seyval Blanc, L'Acadie Blanc, and Chardonnay. This sparkling wine was disgorged in the winter of 2020 and only has an 11% ABV. With such a low ABV, you can easily have a couple glasses without any worry. On the nose, the sparkling wine was aromatic with fresh apple and stone fruit notes. When I peruse the glass, it had plenty of tiny bubbles and a bright golden color. On the palate, it was delicious and delightful, being crisp, dry and creamy. It was refreshing, with flavors of apple and pear, and a touch of minerality. It has a very dry, pleasant and lengthy finish.

7) 2019 Blomidon Estate Baco Noir ($22)
This Nova Scotian red wine is made from 100% Baco Noir, but the winery's website lacks any details of its production process, although it seems like it has seen some aging in American oak and it only has a 12% ABV. The wine has a medium-red color with pleasing aromas of red and black fruit with a touch of spice. On the palate, it was smooth and juicy, with rich black and red fruits, including some cherry and blackberry, complemented by some vanilla and other spices. Mild tannins, good acidity, and a nice finish. A very tasty wine, it had nice character and complexity, and would be excellent on its own or paired with food. 

8) 2019 Bent Ridge Winery Contorto ($23)
And one more Nova Scotian wine! This red wine is produced from 100% Marquette, and unfortunately, details of the production process are not available on the winery's website. I suspect it has received some oak aging and it has a 13.5% ABV. On the nose, there are notes of black fruits and spice, and the wine has a rich, dark red color. On the palate, it has a relatively complex and tasty blend of flavors, including black cherry and black raspberry, with spice notes and a touch of vanilla. It's a bolder wine, yet the tannins are still restrained, and the wine is balanced, with good acidity and a pleasing finish. This is a wine probably best paired with food, and the back label suggests pasta as one possible pairing..

9) 2017 Sarris Vineyards "V is for Vostilidi" ($30) 
What a fascinating and unique Greek wine! I first tasted this wine at Krasi, and loved it so much I had to order a case for home. The is 100% Vostilidi (an indigenous Greek grape), spontaneously fermented and aged for about 11 months in a neutral 2-ton Austrian oak barrel. The vines are organic, although not certified, and the wine has a 13.2% ABV. The color of the wine reminded me more of an orange wine than the usual white wine. On the nose, I found an appealing blend of fruit notes, from apricot to peach, with a tinge of honey. And on my palate, it provided a complex and intriguing melange of flavors, including peach, apricot, vanilla, sweet orange and sesame! I don't recall the last wine that ever brought to mind sesame seeds but I loved that aspect of the wine. Good acidity, some minerality, firm tannins, plenty of umami, and a touch of floral notes. So much going on in each sip and the finish was lengthy and very satisfying. Highly recommended!

10) Multivintage Bruno Paillard Premiere Cuvee Champagne ($60)
The final wine on my list is a splurge-worthy wine, especially for the holidays. This Champagne is the flagship wine for the style of this winery. In general, this Cuvée is a blend of about 25 vintages. The wine is also a blend of about 45% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, and 22% Pinot Meunier, from a selection of 35 of the 320 crus of Champagne. The wine is aged for three years sur lie, longer than the legal requirement, and then aged for at least another five months after disgorgement. The Première Cuvée has a nice golden color and very tiny bubbles are visible in your glass. The aromas are intriguing, with a fine melange of red berries, orange and grapefruit, and a hint of almond. As I tasted this wine, its elegance, complexity and freshness stood out, pure deliciousness and each sip made me crave more. Dry and crisp, the flavors were complex and tasty, including apple, citrus, almond, a touch of brioche, a streak of minerality, and red fruits, but each sip seemed to bring forth even more flavors. It's the type of Champagne to slowly sip, to revel in the different, intriguing flavors that flit over your palate. The finish is lengthy and satisfying, clean and pure. I loved this Champagne! Its elegance, subtlety and complexity are captivating. 


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This year, 6 countries/regions made the list with Nova Scotia taking the lead with four spots, followed by Croatia in second place with two spots. The other countries/regions include Portugal, Alsace, Greece, and France, all with one spot each. As for wine types, the list is also broken down into one  Rosé, two Whites, four Reds, two Sparkling, and one skin-contact White. I have other wine recommendations on my blog and you just have to search for them. 

If you have some of your own recommendations for excellent wines you've enjoyed, please add them to the comments.

Tuesday, December 21, 2021

2021: Top Ten Wines Under $20

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?


As 2021 has arrived, it's time to reflect upon the past year, to remember and savor pleasant memories. I've already posted a couple of my annual Favorite Lists, My Favorite Restaurants and My Favorite Food-Related Items, and it's time now to starting covering my Favorite Wines. This first list are my Top Ten Wines Under $20

This list includes wines that not only I enjoyed, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines that I've tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I strongly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers would also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local region, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws. 

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1) 2020 Ameal Loureiro ($18)
It's no surprise that there's more Portuguese wines on this list than any other country. Portugal often offers many delicious value wines. This wine is produced from 100% Loureiro (from 20 year old vines), sits on the lees in stainless steel for about 7 months and has a 11.5% ABV. Although it's from the Vinho Verde DOC, this isn't what you may think of as such a wine. I fell in love with this wine from the first sip. It possessed an intriguing nose, stone fruits and floral elements, and on the palate, its complexity and rich flavors burst through. It was crisp, fresh and dry, with a delightful melange of citrus, peach, floral notes, minerality and subtle herbal touches. This wine was well-balanced with a lengthy and delicious finish. I'd highly recommend buying this wine by the case, to impress your guests during the year.

2) 2020 Esporao Bico Amarelo ($12)
This Portuguese wine, from one of my favorite producers, is a blend of about 40% Loureiro (from Quinta do Ameal) and 30% each of Alvarinho & Avesso (sourced from nearby growers). With an ABV of 11.5%, the wine remains on the lees for 3-4 months, and possesses no effervescence. On the palate, it's light, crisp and refreshing, with bright notes of lemon, citrus and floral elements. It's a simple wine, in a good way, something to just sip and enjoy, especially on a fine summer day. It would also pair very well with seafood or light dishes. 

3) 2019 Uivo Renegado ($15)
This Portuguese wine is rather unique, a field blend of more than 25 indigenous grapes, both red and white, in a rough 50/50 mix. The vines are 70+ years old, and grow on 2 hectares of schist and granite at an altitude of about 650 meters. The grapes are trod by foot in large granite lagares, and undergo spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts. About 5% of the wine is aged for six months in 2-3 year old chestnut barrels and the rest is aged in cement. It's also not fined or filtered, and has only an 11.5% ABV. The wine has a dark pink color, resembling a Rosé, and on the nose, there are red berries and subtle herbal notes. On the palate, it's crisp and fresh, with tasty cherry and strawberry flavors, and a savory element, a subtle melange of herbs and spice. There is also a hint of spritz, which enhances the refreshing nature of the wine. It possesses plenty of complexity, especially at this price point, and has a pleasing finish too.  

4) 2017 Chateau Vartely Individo Saperavi ($16)
From Moldova, this wine is made from 100% Saperavi, aged for about 12 months in oak and has only a 13.5% ABV. This was a pleasing, easy drinking wine, one which should appeal to many different palates. It possessed a fruity aroma, with only a hint of spice, and on the palate, the fruit was prominent, delicious notes go ripe plum, blackberries and black cherry, with subtle spice notes and a hint of herbs. It was silky and smooth, with a moderately long and enjoyable finish. Simply delicious, although it wasn't a simple wine! You could enjoy this wine on its own, although it would work well with a wide variety of foods, from pizza to burgers.

5) 2020 Tussock Jumper Chenin Blanc ($11.99)
From South Africa, this wine is made with 100% Chenin Blanc and has a 13.5% ABV. It was produced with minimal cellar intervention, and spent about four months aging on the lees. I found this vintage similar to that of 2017, possessed of crisp acidity, tropical fruit flavors, and some subtle mineralogy. There were some peach notes in this vintage, and it had a pleasing and fairly long finish. I paired the Chenin Blanc with some simple seared scallops, and it was a fine pairing. This wine is very food friendly, and perfect for the summer, sipping on its own, or paired with salads, chicken, and seafood. 

6) 2017 Vina Skaramuca Plavac Premium ($16)
This Croatian wine is made from 100% Plavac Mali from vineyards in Pelješac and the Dingač. It was fermented in stainless steel, aged for 6 months in large 3000L barrels, aged for another 6 months in the bottle, and has a 13% ABV. This is a lighter, easier drinking Plavac Mali, with plenty of tasty red and black fruit flavors, good acidity, and some subtle spice notes. This is an everyday wine, perfect on its own or with everything from pizza to burgers, tacos to salmon.

7) 2017 Fronton de Oro Tinto ($19.99)
From Spain's Canary Islands, this intriguing wine is a blend of Listán Negro and Tintilla de Rota.  The wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks, and then aged in mostly used American oak for about three months. With only a 13.5% ABV, only about 4,000 cases of this wine are produced. This is a medium-red colored wine, with an appealing nose of red fruits, floral notes, and hints of spice. On the palate, there's a freshness to the wine, with delicious and juicy tastes of cherry, blackberry, and plum. Good acidity, nicely balanced, a hint of earthiness, and on the finish, there's a nice peppery kick. With a nice complexity, this wine very much appealed to me. It would pair well with burgers to pizza, barbecue to salmon.

8) 2020 Bott Freres Rose d'Alsace ($19.99)
The wines of Alsace also have a special place in my heart. This tasty Rosé is made from 100% Pinot Noir, from 20 year old vines in chalky soil, and was aged in stainless steel tanks for about 8-10 months. With a 14% ABV, the wine has a rich pink color and an appealing aroma of fresh red berries and floral notes. On the palate, it's fresh and crisp, with tasty red fruit flavors, especially raspberry and strawberry, with a floral accent, and a nice streak of minerality. Well balanced, complex, and with a lengthy finish, this Rosé is absolutely delicious, perfect on its own or paired with food. 

9) 2020 Sainte-Famille Lost Bell Baco Noir ($19.99)
Nova Scotia wineries are producing some interesting and delicious wnes. This Nova Scotian wine is made from 100% Baco Noir, although the winery website doesn't provide any details on this wine and its production. It has an 11% ABV, making it one of the lower alcohol red wines I've had in some time. It's a dark colored wine, with pleasant black fruit aromas and a hint of spice. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, easy drinking, with lots of juicy black fruit flavors, including blackberry and black cherry. It's an everyday wine, fine on its own, although it will pair well with everything from burgers to pizza, pasta to stews. It is a relatively simple wine, but not a one-note wine.

10) Jost Vineyards Selkie Rose Frizzante ($19.99)
Also from Nova Scotia, this sparkling wine is produced from a "proprietary blend" of grapes, which may include a couple hybrids, DeChaunac and Marquette. It's a lightly sparkling wine, produced by the Charmat method, and only has a 8.5% ABV, making it much lower alcohol than many sparkling wines. It doesn't appear this wine underwent any oak aging. The Rosé has a bright oink color and an appealing nose of bright red fruits. On the palate, it is fresh and crisp, with a light effervescence and delicious red berry flavors with hints of citrus, and a mild sweetness on the finish. It's tasty on its own, although it would pair well with a variety of dishes, including dishes with a bit of spicy heat, as the mild sweetness would work well. 

Seven countries/regions made the list this year, with Portugal in first place, occupying three spots on the list. Nova Scotia was in second place with two spots, and the other countries, Moldova, South Africa, Croatia, Spain, and Alsace, occupying one spot. As for wine types, the list is also broken down into one Rosé, three Whites, five Reds, and one Sparkling. I have other wine recommendations on my blog and you just have to search for them. 

If you have some of your own recommendations for excellent wines under $20 you've enjoyed, please add them to the comments.

Tuesday, November 23, 2021

2020 Bott Frères Rosé d'Alsace: Great For the Holidays

With Thanksgiving this week, many people are thinking about which wines to drink with their turkey dinner. It's important to realize that Rosé is not just a summer wine, especially considering how well it pairs with a wide variety of foods. Rosé works well on your Thanksgiving table, and it will pair well with other holiday dishes during the rest of this year. 

I love the wines of Alsace, from their Crémant d'Alsace to their intriguing White wines. You might not realize that they make some delicious Red wines too. Pinot Noir is the only authorized grape for AOC Red wines, and that applies to their Rosé wines as well. Unfortunately, very little is currently imported into the U.S. although hopefully that will change.  

Within Alsace, Pinot Noir is planted in nearly 11% of their vineyards, and they produce about 105,000 hectoliters of wine with Pinot Noir, which appears to include Crémant d'Alsace, Rosé and Red still wines. Pinot Noir has a lengthy history in the Alsace region, with some claiming it extends back to the ancient Romans. During the 15th and 16th centuries, Alsace Pinot Noir was even more valued than all of their white wines. For unknown reasons, that changed over time so that their wine wines came to dominate.

Within the various terroirs of Alsace, it has been learned that Pinot Noir grows best in their clay and limestone soils, while Pinot Noir grown in more gravel and sandy soils is best suited for use in Crémant d'Alsace and Rosé. In addition, due to climate change, temperatures in Alsace have risen, making it easier to ripen their Pinot Noir. Some of the best areas to grow Pinot Noir are also designated Grand Cru, but only for white wines. Currently, Pinot Noir cannot be designated as Grand Cru though there are efforts to change this and it seems likely that within several years, Grand Cru Pinot Noir will be authorized.

In general, Alsace Pinot Noir tends to present bright red fruit flavors, crisp acidity, and vibrant freshness. Many are intended to be consumed while young though some have the potential for aging. Oak aging is sometimes used, and when it is, it is more of a light touch, allowing the fruit to take center stage. Curiously, their Pinot Noir is usually bottled  in "flutes," those bottles you most commonly see used for Riesling.

The Bott Frères winery was founded in 1835 by Philippe Louis Bott, the son of a brewer and an winegrower. It's primarily located in Ribeauvillé, an old medieval town known for the ruins of three fortified castles. The winery currently has about 50 acres of vineyards, sustainably farmed (and moving towards organic), and produces only about 15,000 cases of wine annually. 

The 2020 Bott Frères Rosé d'Alsace ($20) is made from 100% Pinot Noir, from 20 year old vines in chalky soil, and was aged in stainless steel tanks for about 8-10 months. With a 14% ABV, the wine has a rich pink color and an appealing aroma of fresh red berries and floral notes. On the palate, it's fresh and crisp, with tasty red fruit flavors, especially raspberry and strawberry, with a floral accent, and a nice streak of minerality. Well balanced, complex, and with a lengthy finish, this Rosé is absolutely delicious, perfect on its own or paired with food. This is an excellent holiday wine which will impress your guests.

Tuesday, September 14, 2021

2019 Les Vins Pirouettes Eros By Vincent: An Orange Wine From Alsace

When you look at the tall, slender bottle, the wine appears to be a Rosé, yet it was produced from only white grapes. In fact, it's what is commonly called an "orange" wine, a skin-contact wine, and it's delicious and intriguing. Many excellent wines comes from Alsace, and this is certainly one of them.

Domaine Christian Binner is over 250 years old, having been established in 1770. The estate now owns vineyards in the Kaefferkopf, Schlossberg and Wineck-Schlossberg Grands Crus and other parcels in Ammerschwihr, with most vines averaging 35 years old, and the rest between 60 and 100 years old. It has been sustainable farmed for about 35 years and in 2012, the winery built an eco-friendly winery, whose roof is covered in soil. They produce a wide range of wines, from Crémant d’Alsace to Late-Harvest.

As a related endeavor, Christian Binner established the Les Vins Pirouettes label as a means for small, organic and Biodynamic grape growers, to produce their own wines instead of selling off their grapes. There are currently 14 grape growers in this project, and their first name is always placed on the label. I haven't discovered yet why the label doesn't include their full name. The grape growers are assisted by the enologists Xavier Couturier and Pierre Sanchez,  and collectively produce about 80,000 bottles annually. 

The name Pirouettes was chosen to "symbolize the fun they’re having" as well as  because “these wines are like beautiful artistic figures, the result of certain know-how and mastery. Pirouette is a gesture of freedom, emotion, and joy,”  All of their wines are natural, using spontaneous fermentation, and there is no fining, filtration, or added sulfur. 

The 2019 Les Vins Pirouettes Eros By Vincent (about $25) is a blend, of 20 year old grapes from a Biodynamic vineyard, of 40% Pinot Gris, 40% Riesling, and 20% Sylvaner. The grapes are fermented on the skins for about 25 days, and the pink color of the wine comes from the Pinot Gris, which is a pink-colored variety. The wine is also aged on the lees in large foudre for about eight months. 

On the nose, there's an intriguing aroma of spice, citrus, and apples, although there are hints of even more. And on the palate, there's a compelling and complex melange of flavors, such a joy in the mouth. It is primarily savory, with baking spices, pepper, black tea, and more, combined with a variety of fruits, from citrus to pineapple. It is crisp, dry, well-balanced and with a pleasing, lengthy finish. Each sip brings something a little different to your mouth, and this is a wine you can slowly savor and enjoy. I paired the wine with some quail breasts and it was a very fine pairing. 

This is a wine I'd highly recommend for any adventurous wine lover. 

Friday, May 24, 2019

Crémant d'Alsace: Domaine Mittnacht-Freres to Ruhlmann

When people are seeking a less expensive alternative to Champagne, I often recommend they check out Crémant d'Alsace. I've celebrated numerous occasions with Crémant, including my recent 12th Anniversary of The Passionate Foodie blog.

In the Alsace region, they have been producing sparkling wines since the early 19th century but it was not until 1976 that the Crémant d'Alsace AOC was created. The AOC has strict regulations on viticulture and viniculture, and six grapes are permitted including Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Auxerrois Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. Most of their Blanc de Blancs is made from Pinot Blanc while Pinot Noir is the only grape permitted in their Rosé.

Crémant is produced by the méthode Champenoise, and the term "crémant" basically means "creamy" and originally referred to sparkling wines that were produced with less pressure, which tended to make them taste more creamy than effervescent.

As I've said multiple times before, "Americans need to drink more Crémant d'Alsace, and in fact, they need to drink more wines, of all types, from Alsace. They often provide excellent value and taste. They are enjoyable while young but can also age well. They can provide a sense of history, as well as showcase state of the art wine making. They pair well with a diverse variety of foods and cuisines. And at their most basic, they are absolutely delicious."

Back in 1979, the total production of Crémant d'Alsace.was less than 1 million bottles but that has now increased to around 33 million bottles. However, only about 300K bottles of Crémant d'Alsace are imported into the U.S. This tiny amount has to compete with a massive array of other sparkling wines, including about 18 Million bottles of Champagne and 99 Million bottles of domestic sparkling wine. Crémant d'Alsace may be an underdog, but it is well worthy of your attention.

For more background and information on Crémant d'Alsace, check out some of my previous articles where I share my passion for this tasty bubbly, including: Crémant d'Alsace & The Spartans At ThermopylaeSchoenheitz Winery: A Taste Of BeautyPuritan & Co.: Alsatian Wine AdviceGustave Lorentz: More Alsatian Wine TreasuresAlsatian Wines & Pheasant at Craigie On Main, Crémant d'Alsace: A New Year's Eve RecommendationStarting the New Year With Crémant d'Alsace & Lobster, and Crémant D'Alsace Rosé: Domaine Camille Braun & Alsace-Willm.

When was the first Crémant d'Alsace exported to the U.S.?

The Dopff au Moulin winery invented Crémant d'Alsace in the beginning of the 20th century when Julian Dopff started to use the méthode Champenoise to create sparkling wines in Alsace. Julien's son, Pierre, would later assist in the creation of the Crémant d'Alsace AOC in 1976. In my researches, the earliest mention I found of Crémant from Alsace in the U.S. is from the Chicago Tribune, December 27, 1950. There was an advertisement for "Dopff French Dinner wines" which include "Vin Gris, Crémant, Sylvaner." These wines were priced at $1.49 each, or 3 for $4.00. In comparison, the same ad offered bottles of Champagne, including Moet & Chandon, Pol Roger Brut, and Piper Heidsieck, for $3.59 a bottle.

I'm still seeking additional information on the earliest imports of Alsace Crémant, and will report back when I learn anything new.

Over the course of almost the next thirty years, there were only a tiny amount of brief references to Crémant in the newspapersThe Port Arthur News, November 5, 1977 (TX) was the first newspaper article I found that provided a bit of educational information about Crémant in a lengthy article on French Champagne. The article stated, "Crémant is a very fine, very light vin mousseux that is only partly sparkling. There are presently three cremants--all made by the method champenoise--that are entitled to appellation controlee. They are Crémant d'Alsace, Crémant de Bourgogne, and Cremant de Loire."

It's interesting to look at some of the prices from the early 1980s. For example, The San Francisco Examiner, September 23, 1980 printed a wine store advertisement mentioning Pierre Sparr Crémant d'Alsace Brut for $7.59. Compare this price to two Champagnes, including Moet & Chandon White Star Extra Dry for $11.99 and Laurent Perrier Cuvee Speciale Brut for $12.99. The Berkshire Eagle, October 31, 1983 (MA) listed an ad for Dopff Crémant d'Alsace Brut at $6.99 while Korbel Brut, from California, cost $7.89, and Perrier-Jouet Brut, a Champagne, cost $15.99.

I recently received two media samples of Crémant d'Alsace, from two different wineries, and once again, I was impressed with their quality, complexity and deliciousness. And as both are priced at least than $25, they are also excellent values.

Domaine Mittnacht-Freres, which extends back to 1958, is a family-owned estate. In 1963, the two brothers André and Louis Mittnacht merged their vineyards and currently, the estate is led by Christophe and Yuka Mittnacht. Christophe was an early pioneer of Biodynamics, and their 20 hectare estate has been Demeter certified since 1999, once of the first in Alsace to receive that certification. Wine production is also conducted with minimal intervention. They produce a number of wines, including Grand Cru, Late Harvest, and Crémant.

The NV Domaine Mittnacht-Freres Crémant d'Alsace Extra Brut (about $23) is produced by an intriguing blend of 60% Pinot Auxerrois, 10% Pinot Blanc, 10% Riesling, 10% Pinot Gris, and 10% Pinot Noir, all from 25+ year old vines. The wine, with a 12% ABV, was aged on the less for about 18 months. With a light golden color, and plenty of tiny bubbles, this Crémant is bone dry, with high acidity, and intriguing subtle tastes of green apple and peaches, and an underlying steely minerality. Elegant and delicious, this would be a great pairing with oysters or fried foods, as well as even a simple bag of potato chips.

The history of the Ruhlmann Winery reaches back hundreds of years to when ancestors of the Ruhlmann family, who were Hungarian knights, settled in the central Alsace back in 1688. The estate now includes approximately 75 acres, with two Grands Crus (Frankstein and Muenchberg) and two Lieu-dit sites. The winery produces five different lines of wines, from Cépage to Cave Précieuse, using grapes such as Auxerrois, Chasselas, Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, Gewurtztraminer and Pinot Noir. I've previously reviewed a couple of their wines.

The NV Ruhlmann Crémant d'Alsace Harmonie de Rosé (about $20) is made from 100% Pinot Noir and has a 12.5% ABV. With a pleasing, rich pink color, lots of tiny bubbles, and a compelling nose of red fruits, this is a Crémant Rosé sure to please. It is dry and elegant, with crisp acidity and a delicious blend of strawberry, raspberry and citrus flavors. A fairly lengthy finish satisfies too. Pure pleasure on the palate. This wine can be enjoyed on its own, though it will pair well with a variety of foods as well.

Drink More Crémant d'Alsace!

Tuesday, December 11, 2018

2018: Top Ten Wines Over $15 (But Under $50)

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my second Top Ten Wine List. Yesterday, I posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, which I hope you enjoyed and found useful. Now it is time for my Top Ten Wines Over $15, though these wines also cost less than $50.

Like the prior list, this list includes wines that not only I enjoyed, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stood out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local region, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1) 2014 Domaine Albert Mann Extra Brut Crémant d'Alsace ($24)
This Crémant d'Alsace is a blend of Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. With a fine golden color and a myriad of tiny bubbles, it possesses an alluring aroma, with elements of fresh fruit. On the palate, the Crémant is fresh, crisp and dry, with delicious flavors of green apple, pear and hints of lemon. Though it is fruit driven, there is complexity in the palate as well, with a touch of minerality and hints of spice. There is a light, elegant creaminess to this wine with a lengthy, pleasing finish, ending with more fruit notes. At this price point, it is also an excellent value.

2) 2014 Domaines Schlumberger "Les Princes Abbés" Pinot Noir ($25) Pinot Noir from Alsace is rare and that needs to change. This wine is produced from 100% Pinot Noir, from vines of an average age of 19 years. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then aged on the lees for about 8 months in old wooden foudres. This is a wine of silky elegance, of bright, fresh red fruit flavors, a hint of spice, and a wisp of earthiness. Excellent acidity, some floral accents, soft tannins, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. Such a well balanced and delicious wine, its elegance is so compelling and its complex melange of flavors pleases me immensely.

3) 2016 Georges Duboeuf Domaine les Chenevieres, Macon-Villages ($21.99)
This French wine is made from 100% Chardonnay, with vines that are over 20 years old, this wine has a 12.5% ABV and sees only stainless steel. It has an interesting and fresh taste, lots of crispness with flavors of green apple and citrus, with a backbone of minerality, and a lingering finish. This wine would go very well with goat cheese, as well as many types of seafood.

4) 2016 Georges Duboeuf Jean Ernest Descombes, Morgon ($21.99)
Another French wine, fro the Morgon Cru, this wine is made from 100% Gamay (vines from 50-100 years old), with a 13% ABV. It was vinified and aged in cement tanks. It possesses a captivating aroma, one that quickly lures you into the bottle. The red and black fruit flavors are intense, with crisp acidity, spice notes, and an earthy undertone. It is elegant and complex, intriguing and delicious.  Many of my favorite Beaujolais wines come from the Morgon Cru and this is an excellent example of what that Cru has to offer.

5) 2015 Darting Winery Pinot Meunier ($21.99)
This German wine is made from 100% Pinot Meunier, from the Pfalz region, and has a 13.5% ABV. It is rare to find single varietal Pinot Meunier. This wine has a light red color, with a touch of sediment, and a mild, pleasing aroma of red fruit and spice. It is a light-bodied wine, subtle and elegant in its presentation, with delicious flavors of cherry and cranberry, a mild spicy backbone and a hint of earthiness. Nice acidity, a lingering finish, and interesting. Overall, it is delicious and paired perfectly with a dinner of lamb lollipops.

6) Gonzalez Byass La Copa Vermouth ($25)
Vermouth is actually a wine, an aromatized wine, and many people seem to forget that fact, which is why you rarely see Vermouth on Top Ten Wine lists. They are worthy though of more recognition. The La Copa Vermouth is a blend of 75% Oloroso Sherry and 25% Pedro Ximinez Sherry. It is rare to find any Vermouth made from Sherry. Some of the botanicals that are used in this Vermouth include wormwood, angelica, savory, clove, orange peel, nutmeg, quinine, and cinnamon. On the nose, its complexity is first experienced, a wonderful melange of spices, salted nuts, and citrus notes. On the palate, you will be intrigued by its complexity, balance and elegance. There is a superb blend of spices and herbs, with nuts, caramel, a touch of plum, candied orange and more. The Sherry influence is prominent and well integrated. There is balanced sweetness with hints of bitterness, exactly what you want from a fine vermouth. It's smooth with a lengthy, satisfying finish and is wonderful on its own, though it also works well in a Manhattan.

7) 2015 Post Scriptum de Chryseia ($20-$25)
This Portuguese wine is impressive, a blend of 64% Touriga Franca, 28% Touriga Nacional and 8% Tinta Roriz, spending about 12 months in French oak. It has bright red fruit flavors, nice acidity, a spicy backbone and an elegant nature. Definitely very approachable, with good complexity, a lengthy finish and a wine that is very food friendly. Simply delicious.

8) 2015 Bodegas Garzón Cabernet France Reserve ($27)
Uruguay is producing some interesting and delicious wines, and this wine, made from Cabernet France, is an impressive example of their potential. With a rich purple color, the wine has alluring aromas, lots of ripe fruit and hints of spice. On the palate, there are delicious black and blue fruit flavors, enhanced by mild spice notes and a hint of herbal notes. There isn't a prominent flavor of green peppers, which delights me. The tannins are well integrated, the finish lingers, and there is a touch of mint on the finish too. This would be a great wine to pair with grilled meats or even a pizza.

9) 2015 Scheid Vineyards Pinot Noir ($36)
From California, this wine is made from 100% Pinot Noir, a blend of grapes from two estate vineyards, and it is aged for about 9 months in neutral French oak. With a 14.1% ABV, the wine has an appealing nose of red and black fruits with a hint of spice. On the palate, the wine is light bodied and silky, with a complex melange of flavors, from cherry to blackberry, cranberry to plum, with subtle spice notes, a touch of vanilla, and a hint of smoke, especially on the lengthy finish. An elegant Pinot, this is a wine to slowly savor over the course of an evening.

10) 2015 Kocabağ Öküzgözü ($19.99)
This is the first wine from Turkey that I've ever reviewed and it won't be my last. Öküzgözü is an indigenous grape with high acidity and mild tannins, tending to make soft, easy drinking wines similar in some respects to Gamay or Pinot Noir. This wine possesses a medium-red color with an interesting nose of black cherry and raspberry, with a few spice notes. On the palate, it is light bodied, with plenty of acidity, and delicious ripe plum and black cherry flavors, enhanced by a mild earthiness and hints of spice. It has a very Old World feel to it, with mild tannins, a moderately lengthy finish, and is simply tasty.

This is always my toughest list to compile because there are numerous other excellent wines which I could have added. I had to ponder long over which wines to actually select for the main list, meaning that I had to eliminate other worthy wines. To give some credit to those other worthy wines, which almost made the Top Ten list, I have an Honorable Mention list. These are also wines you definitely should check out.

Honorable Mention
1) 2016 Alto do Joa Tinto ($15-$17)
This compelling Portuguese wine is a field blend of 20 grapes, including Alvarelhão, Bastardo, Chasselas Suíça, Cornifesto, Dona Branca, Folgasão, Formosa, Jaen, Mourisco, and Tinta Amarela. With a dark red color, and an alluring nose, I was captivated by this wine from my first taste. It is elegant and silky smooth, with well-integrated tannins, good acidity, and a touch of rusticness. Its complex melange of flavors includes ripe plum, black cherry, fig, dark spices, and a subtle earthiness. A long and lingering finish tantalizes and satisfies. It over delivers for the price and was pure pleasure on the palate.

Another Portuguese wine, this Sparking wine is made from 100% Touriga Nacional, which is certainly more unique. Almost a Rosé in color, and with tiny bubbles, there are mild red fruit notes on the aroma. As soon as I tasted a sip, bright berry flavors burst on my tongue, such a pleasurable taste and sensation. Dry and crisp, once I got past the berries, there were subtle notes of almond and plum, as well as a lingering finish. If I could have easily transported it home from Portugal, I would have bought a case of this bubbly.

Portugal is taking dominance on this Honorable Mention list. This Port has an amazing taste and aroma, being more dry than sweet, with concentrated black fruit flavors, notes of dried fruit, spicy accents, and plenty of complexity. Well balanced, this is a powerful Port yet still restrained, more elegant than muscular. And you can easily enjoy it now without a need for further aging. Pure deliciousness at a very reasonable price.

And one more Portuguese wine, a rare aged White Port, made from a blend of at least Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Moscatel Galego, and Rabigato. It is fermented in traditional lagares, granite treading tanks where the grapes are trod on by foot. It was aged for about 9 months in stainless steel and then for at least more 20 years in wooden casks. Sniffing your glass, you'll be seduced by an alluring blend of honey, floral and herbal scents, with wisps of citrus. On the palate, the complexity of the aromas is still evident, with each sip bringing something new to your mouth. There is a mild sweetness, well balanced by its acidity, with bright honey notes, citrus flavors, and touches of herbs. It is more full bodied and rich, with a long, lingering finish that soothes and satisfies. It is well worth the effort to seek it out, especially due to its complexity and superb taste.

This fascinating Sherry is produced from Palomino grapes all sourced from the Macharnudo Alto, making it a single-vineyard Sherry, which is rare in the Sherry industry. It is also one of the few Sherries that is still fermented in cask, in American oak, with nearly all other Sherries fermented in stainless steel. This Amontillado begins its life by spending from eight to twelve years under flor, like a Fino Sherry, and then spent another five to eight years without flor, aging oxidatively, averaging about 16-18 years in total. This Sherry has a compelling aroma, and the complex taste is nutty with rich caramel, vanilla and spice, as well as lots of acidity. It also possesses a long and pleasing finish. When I think of this Sherry, I think of it as delicious and comforting, fueling my belly and soul.

An En Rama Sherry is unfiltered or lightly filtered, which tends to produce a Sherry that is more intense and complex. With a 15% ABV, the Tio Pepe Fino En Rama has a bright golden color and is aromatic, with intriguing notes of toast and the briny nature of the sea. On the palate, it is fresh and dry, with a complex and intense melange of citrus, almonds, and the taste of the ocean. The finish has a tinge of bitterness, which doesn't detract from the taste, and lingers on your palate for quite a time. It is not as light and subtle as more heavily filtered Fino Sherries. I'm a big fan of this style and love the intense expressiveness of this Tio Pepe.

Made from 100% Pinot Noir, this Alsace bubbly is produced by the méthode champenoise and remains on the lees for about 12 months. With an appealing nose of red fruits and a touch of spice, this is a delicious and lush Crémant with ripe flavors of strawberry, cherry and raspberry. Dry, crisp, and clean, with a fine effervescence, this is a true crowd pleaser. At this price, it is an excellent value for the taste and complexity found within the bottle. 

This Italian wine is made from 100% Sangiovese, which spent about 24 months in oak, 20% in small barriques, and 1 year in the bottle. It is made in a more traditional style, which is my preference, and is quite good, with nice acidity, notes of cherry and black fruit, mild spice notes, and low tannins. It is delicious, but definitely does best when paired with food, especially meat or a hearty dish. To me, this is an example of a very good traditional Chianti Classico.

From Uruguay, thus wine is made from 100% Albarino, selected from the best seven plots in the vineyard. About 80% of the grapes were fermented in large, concrete tanks (without epoxy) and the rest were fermented in untoasted oak barrels. The wine spent about 8 months on the lees. This is an impressive wine, elegant and complex, something meant to be slowly sipped and savored. It has a richer texture, great acidity, and more savory notes with only underlying and subtle fruit notes. The finish is long and satisfying, simply a stellar wine. 

10) 2015 Windvane Carneros Pinot Noir ($45)
This California Pinot Noir, from the Carneros region, possesses a medium red color and an enticing aroma of red fruit with mild, underlying spice notes. On the palate, the complex wine presents delicious and intense flavors of red cherry and blackberry, enhanced by mild spice notes and plenty of acidity. Medium-bodied, the finish is fairly lengthy and satisfying, ending with a silky crispness. Paired with Chinese sausages, the acidity of the wine helped to balance the sweetness of the sausages, and its flavors worked well with the spices and flavors of the sausage.

Summary

Eight wine countries and regions made the list this year, the same amount as last year. France dominates, occupying four spots, which include two wines from the Alsace region. The rest of the list is occupied by Germany, Spain, Portugal, Uruguay, Turkey and California. The list is also broken down into one Sparkling wine, one Aromatized wine, one White wine and seven Red wines.

On the Honorable Mention list, six countries made the list, compared to seven last year. Portugal dominates this list, with four spots, and Spain takes second place with two spots. The rest of the spots were taken by France (Alsace), Italy, Uruguay, and California. The list is also broken down into two Sparkling wines, four Fortified wines, three Red wines, and one White wine. Last year, there weren't any Fortified wines on this list.

When you combine the two lists, France (with three from Alsace) and Portugal are tied for first place, each with five spots. In comparison, last year's leader of this combined list was the country of Georgia with four spots, while Portugal had two spots and France only one. This year, Spain occupied three spots while Uruguay and California both had two spots. Rounding out the combined list are Germany, Turkey and Italy, each with one spot. In addition, the combined list includes three Sparkling wines, four Fortified wines, one Aromatized wine, two White wines, and ten Red wines.

I have plenty of other recommendations for wines at this price point on my blog. There are top notch wines from countries all over the world, made from an incredibly diverse selection of grapes and you can still find plenty of values too. My advice is that you seek out wines outside of your comfort zone. Explore the multitude of diversity in the wonderful world of wine. Taste and try anything new, unique or potentially interesting. I am sure your search will lead to new favorites.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines that are over $15 but under $50, please add them to the comments.

Tuesday, November 27, 2018

Alsace Pinot Noir: For Thanksgiving & Much More

When you think of wine from Alsace, you're most likely to think of their white wines, from Riesling to Gewürztraminer, from Pinot Blanc to Muscat. You might be hard pressed to identify a red grape used in Alsace, though if you're a fan of Crémant d'Alsace, especially their Rosé versions, you might know Pinot Noir is grown there. In fact, Pinot Noir is the only red grape authorized for Alsace AOC Red wines and Rosé.

Don't feel bad if you didn't know Alsace produces Pinot Noir wines. Unfortunately, only about 2,800 cases, a mere drop in the bucket, of Alsace Pinot Noir were imported into the U.S. in 2016. That makes it a very tiny niche wine and it needs to grow and grow, as Alsace Pinot Noir is delicious and compelling, worthy of notice.

Within Alsace, Pinot Noir is planted in nearly 11% of their vineyards, and they produce about 105,000 hectoliters of wine with Pinot Noir, which appears to include Crémant d'Alsace, Rosé and Red still wines. Pinot Noir has a lengthy history in the Alsace region, with some claiming it extends back to the ancient Romans. During the 15th and 16th centuries, Alsace Pinot Noir was even more valued than all of their white wines. For unknown reasons, that changed over time so that their wine wines came to dominate.

Within the various terroirs of Alsace, it has been learned that Pinot Noir grows best in their clay and limestone soils, while Pinot Noir grown in more gravel and sandy soils is best suited for use in Crémant d'Alsace and Rosé. In addition, due to climate change, temperatures in Alsace have risen, making it easier to ripen their Pinot Noir. Some of the best areas to grow Pinot Noir are also designated Grand Cru, but only for white wines. Currently, Pinot Noir cannot be designated as Grand Cru though there are efforts to change this and it seems likely that within several years, Grand Cru Pinot Noir will be authorized.

In general, Alsace Pinot Noir tends to present bright red fruit flavors, crisp acidity, and vibrant freshness. Many are intended to be consumed while young though some have the potential for aging. Oak aging is sometimes used, and when it is, it is more of a light touch, allowing the fruit to take center stage. Curiously, their Pinot Noir is usually bottled  in "flutes," those bottles you most commonly see used for Riesling.

Pinot Noir is often recommended for Thanksgiving, a complement to turkey, and this year I enjoyed three Alsace Pinot Noirs with my Thanksgiving feast. Beside the turkey, we also had a honeymoon roast. All three were excellent wines, as well as each having its own distinctive characteristics. My guests each had their own personal favorite of the three wines, though they too enjoyed all three. This isn't the first time I've tasted Alsace Pinot Noir, but it certainly has provided me even more reason to promote this compelling niche wine.

Please note that two of the Pinot Noirs (the Ostertag and Schlumberger) were media samples while I purchased the Binner on my own. I'm also presenting the wines in order of their vintage, from the youngest to oldest.

Domaine Ostertag isn't as old as some of the historic Alsace wineries, but it still makes an impact in the region. In 1966, winemaker André Ostertag returned to his family estate and founded Domaine Ostertag. André had previously trained in the Burgundy region, which obviously gave him experience with Pinot Noir. At his family's estate, he improved vineyard management and in 1997, he started instituting Biodynamic agriculture in his 35 acre vineyard. The winery produces three wine ranges, including Vins de Fruit (expressive of the grape variety), Vins de Pierre (expressive of terroir), and Vins de Temps (expressive of overripeness or noble rot).

The 2016 Domaine Ostertag "Les Jardins" Pinot Noir ($27) is made from 100% Pinot Noir, from 20+ year old vines. The wine was aged in stainless steel tanks for about nine months, has a 12% ABV, and is certified Biodynamic. This wine was the darkest red of the three, with an intense aroma of red and black fruits, and a touch of an earthy smell. On the palate, the wine presented with a complex blend of bold flavors, including red cherry, black cherry, and strawberry, with a prominent earthy element, a touch of the savage. Good acidity, with a fairly long and satisfying finish. It especially paired well with our honeymoon roast.

Domaine Christian Binner is nearly 250 years old, having been established in 1770. The estate now owns vineyards in the Kaefferkopf, Schlossberg and Wineck-Schlossberg Grands Crus and other parcels in Ammerschwihr, with most vines averaging 35 years old, and the rest between 60 and 100 years old. It has been sustainable farmed for about 35 years and in 2012, the winery built an eco-friendly winery, whose roof is covered in soil. They produce a wide range of wines, from Crémant d’Alsace to Late-Harvest.

The 2015 Domaine Christian Binner Pinot Noir ($33) is also made from 100% Pinot Noir, with 60% of the grapes an average age of 35-years old and 40% being over 60 years, including some that are over 100 years old. The wine was aged for about 11 months in 100 year old wood vats. It is also certified Biodynamic, unfiltered, has a 13% ABV, and has no added yeast or sulfites. This wine also had an alluring nose of red fruits and earthiness, with a hint of spice. On the palate, it was lighter than the Ostertag, but with a similar flavor profile in many respects, though tending more toward red fruits rather than black ones. It's earthiness was also milder than the Ostertag. A well balanced wine, with a lengthy, pleasing finish, it paired well with the turkey, as well as a the roast.

Domaines Schlumberger got its start in 1810, when a small vineyard was added to their textile business. Since then, the estate has grown significantly, owning over 330 acres in Geubwiller, and also vineyards in the Grands Crus of Kitterlé, Kessler, Saering and Spiegel, making them the largest Grand Crus owner in Alsace. The estate is now operated and managed by the 6th and 7th generations of the Schlumberger family. The estate has about 30 acres of Pinot Noir, with 20% planted in the Grand Cru Saering.

The 2014 Domaines Schlumberger "Les Princes Abbés" Pinot Noir ($25) is produced from 100% Pinot Noir, from vines of an average age of 19 years. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then aged on the lees for about 8 months in old wooden foudres. This was a wine of silky elegance, of bright, fresh red fruit flavors, a hint of spice, and a wisp of earthiness. Excellent acidity, some floral accents, soft tannins, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. Such a well balanced and delicious wine, it went perfectly with the turkey. And I loved this wine! That elegance was so compelling and its complex melange of flavors pleased me immensely. Highly recommended.

Overall, all three Pinot Noirs were excellent choices, helping to showcase the diversity of Alsace, as well as being illustrative of its terroir and quality. It's a shame so little Alsace Pinot Noir finds its way to our shores and hopefully that will change in the near future. If you love Pinot Noir, I strongly encourage you to seek out those from Alsace. Plus, check out Crémant d'Alsace Rosé, which is also made from Pinot Noir.

Tuesday, July 17, 2018

Crémant D'Alsace Rosé: Domaine Camille Braun & Alsace-Willm

For any celebration, it's great to open some bubbly, and there's a wide choice of sparkling wines you can select. For my birthday celebrations this year, I enjoyed three different sparkling wines. One of these was a Grower Champagne, the excellent Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru, which I drank at Island Creek Oyster Bar in Burlington. I've visited that winery before and love their Champagnes, all which are made from 100% Chardonnay. It was a great way to begin my birthday dinner at ICOB.

The other two sparkling wines were similar, both Crémant D'Alsace Rosé though from different producers. As I've said multiple times people, Americans need to drink more Crémant d'Alsace, and in fact, they need to drink more wines, of all types, from Alsace. They often provide excellent value and taste. They are enjoyable while young but can also age well. They can provide a sense of history, as well as showcase state of the art wine making. They pair well with a diverse variety of foods and cuisines. And at their most basic, they are absolutely delicious.

For more background on Crémant d'Alsace, check out some of my previous articles where I share my passion for this tasty bubbly, including: Crémant d'Alsace & The Spartans At ThermopylaeSchoenheitz Winery: A Taste Of BeautyPuritan & Co.: Alsatian Wine AdviceGustave Lorentz: More Alsatian Wine TreasuresAlsatian Wines & Pheasant at Craigie On Main, Crémant d'Alsace: A New Year's Eve Recommendation, and Starting the New Year With Crémant d'Alsace & Lobster.

The history of the Domaine Camille Braun extends back to 1523 in Alsace, and they have been producing wine in the village of Orschwihr since 1902. Currently, the owners, Christophe and Chantal Braun, own about 13 hectares of vineyards in or near Orschwihr, including the famed Grand Cru site Pfingstberg, which has been documented since 1299. The vineyards are now certified organic and Biodynamic, and their total production is only about 8,000 cases annually.

The NV Domaine Camille Braun Crémant D'Alsace Rosé ($25) is made from 100% Pinot Noir, the vines averaging about 30 years, as it is the only grape permitted in Alsace Rosé. Made in the méthode champenoise, the wine remains on the lees for about 18-24 months and only about 10,000 bottles are produced. The Rosé had a pleasing nose of red fruits and on the palate, the red fruits were more subtle and delicious, with hints of spice. It was dry and creamy, with a nice crispness to it as well. The fine bubbles helped to cleanse the palate and cut through the richness while I enjoyed this bubbly with a lobster dinner. An excellent choice for this pairing.

Maison Willm's fame began before it ever started making wine, and it centered on a compelling recipe, Escargots à l’Alsacienne, in which the snails were cooked in a broth of spices and white wine. Around 1896, the Willm family established a wine estate in the town of Barr, located at the base of the Grand Cru Kirchberg ("hills of the church") de Barr. This is a prime area in Alsace for vineyards. In the 1930s, they were one of the first wineries in Alsace to export to the U.S., allegedly becoming a favorite of the gangster Al Capone! I've previously enjoyed a couple other of their crémants, including the NV Willm Crémant d’Alsace Blanc de Blancs Brut and the NV Willm Cremant d'Alsace Blanc de Noirs Brut. 


The NV Willm Crémant d’Alsace Rosé ($18), made from 100% Pinot Noir, is produced by the méthode champenoise and remains on the lees for about 12 months. With an appealing nose of red fruits and a touch of spice, this was a delicious and lush Crémant with ripe flavors of strawberry, cherry and raspberry. Dry, crisp, and clean, with a fine effervescence, this was a true crowd pleaser. At this price, it is an excellent value for the taste and complexity found within the bottle. Highly recommended!

Tuesday, January 30, 2018

Starting the New Year With Crémant d'Alsace & Lobster

January 1, 2018: I chose to open two bottles of Crémant d'Alsace as a delicious way to start the New Year. My first wines of 2018, paired with 12 pounds of Homarus americanus, the American Lobster. Bubbles and the Bounty of the waters of Maine.

Simply put, Crémant d'Alsace is a French sparkling wine from the Alsace region. In Alsace, they have been producing sparkling wines since the early 19th century but it wasn't until 1976 that the Crémant d'Alsace AOC was created. It's produced in a similar fashion to Champagne, though there are some differences as well. The term "crémant" means "creamy" and originally referred to sparkling wines that were produced with less pressure, which tended to make them taste more creamy than effervescent.

The Crémant d'Alsace AOC has strict regulations on viticulture and viniculture, and six grapes are permitted including Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Auxerrois Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. Most of their Blanc de Blancs is made from Pinot Blanc while Pinot Noir is the only grape permitted in their Rosé. Total production of Crémant d'Alsace, which comprises about 22% of the region's production, is about 33 million bottles. However, only about 300,000 bottles are imported into the U.S.

Americans need to drink more Crémant d'Alsace! In fact, Americans need to drink more wines, of all types, from Alsace. As I've said repeatedly before, the wines of Alsace are generally not on the radar of the average consumer but they should be. They can often provide excellent value and taste. They are enjoyable while young but can also age well. They can provide a sense of history, as well as showcase state of the art wine making. They pair well with a diverse variety of foods and cuisines. And at their most basic, they are absolutely delicious.

To learn more about Crémant d'Alsace, check out some of my previous articles where I share my passion for this tasty bubbly, including: Crémant d'Alsace & The Spartans At ThermopylaeSchoenheitz Winery: A Taste Of BeautyPuritan & Co.: Alsatian Wine AdviceGustave Lorentz: More Alsatian Wine TreasuresAlsatian Wines & Pheasant at Craigie On Main and Crémant d'Alsace: A New Year's Eve Recommendation.

The first of the wines for the evening was the 2014 Domaine Albert Mann Extra Brut Crémant d'Alsace (about $24). The winery is a union of two families, Mann (who have been wine growers since the start of the 17th century) and Barhelmé (wine growers since 1654). Currently, the winery is owned and operated by Maurice and Jacky Barthelmé, with their wives, Marie-Claire and Marie-Thérèse. The Barthelmés believe: "The goal of the estate is to produce wine that is in harmony with nature. Wine is the memory of the grape and is capable of transmitting the taste of the earth." In adherence to this belief, their estate is certified organic and has been Biodynamic since 1997. Their estate includes 23 hectares of vineyards, broken up into about 100 separate plots, growing Riesling (29%), Gewurztraminer (20%), Pinot Blanc/Auxerrois (19%), Pinot Gris (17%), Pinot Noir (11%) and Muscat (3%).

This Crémant d'Alsace is a blend of Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. With a fine golden color and a myriad of tiny bubbles, it possesses an alluring aroma, with elements of fresh fruit. On the palate, the Crémant is fresh, crisp and dry, with delicious flavors of green apple, pear and hints of lemon. Though it is fruit driven, there is complexity in the palate as well, with a touch of minerality and hints of spice. There is a light, elegant creaminess to this wine with a lengthy, pleasing finish, ending with more fruit notes. It livened up my mouth and brought to mind the coming Spring. It was my favorite of the two Crémants and at this price point is an excellent value.

The second wine of the evening was the NV Meyer-Fonne Crémant d'Alsace Brut Extra (about $24). The winery is currently owned and operated by Félix Meyer, the third generation in his family since his grandfather founded the domaine in the late 19th century. The vineyards comprise about 12 hectares, over seven communes, each bringing its own unique terroir. Though the winery has been modernized, Félix still follows some traditions, such as aging wines on the lees in large, older foudres, and has a strong respect for terroir.

This Crémant d'Alsace is a blend of 60% Pinot Auxerrois, 20% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Blanc, and 5% Pinot Noir. Many of those grapes are sourced from vines that are about 45 years old. The lees rest in the bottle for a minimum of 12 months before disgorgement. It's color is a bit paler gold than the Mann but has equally as fine bubbles. Its aroma is more subtle, with mild fruit and a hint of brioche.   On the palate, this Crémant is fresh, crisp and dry, with more savory notes, underlying apple and citrus notes as well as a backbone of minerality. There is a touch of bitterness on the palate too, which isn't off-putting, and adds complexity to the taste. The ending is long and satisfying and is also a good value at this price point. Though I preferred the Mann of the two, I still enjoyed this wine and it is worthy of my recommendation too.

How did the Crémant d'Alsace pair with our lobster dinner? In general, Sparkling wine is a versatile food wine and often pairs very well with seafood. With the sweetness and rich of lobster, especially dipped in drawn butter, it helps to have a wine with good acidity and both of these wines possessed that trait. Plus, their tiny bubbles helped to cleanse the palate between bites. The complex flavors of the two wines also complemented the delicious lobster. It was a killer pairing, well appreciated by everyone at the table. And such a hedonistic way to begin the New Year.

With Valentine's Day coming, I'd highly recommend you emulate my dinner, and share some lobsters with your significant other, pairing it with some tasty Crémant d'Alsace. Or just drink some Crémant d'Alsace for another special occasion. Or just drink it because it is a Tuesday or Wednesday night.

(I received both of these Crémants as media samples.)

Wednesday, December 13, 2017

2017: Favorite Wine-Related Items

What were some of my favorite wine related items of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2017. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15Top Ten Wines Over $15 and Top Wines Over $50 lists. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Wine-Related Items, which are not specific wine recommendations. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more wine related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Analysis Of Top Ten Wines: In my three prior Top Wine lists of 2017, I mentioned a total of 36 wines, which included wines from 13 different countries, three more than last year. Tied at the top were Georgia and Portugal, each with 6 wines (and I'll note Spain was in first place last year). Alsace came in second place with 5 wines and Spain, California and Greece ended up tied in third place, each with 3 wines. Moldova and Israel each hold 2 spots while France, Italy, Chile, South Africa, Germany, and Great Britain each hold 1 spot. As for wine types, the list is also broken down into 5 Sparkling, 9 Whites, 2 Rosé, 18 Reds, 1 Fortified and 1 Dessert Wine. Sixteen of the wines were first tasted at the Boston Wine Expo, where I often find a significant number of intriguing wines.

Favorite Discount Wine Stores: Consumers always want bargains, excellent value wines which won't stretch their wallets. You can buy the cheap, mass-produced commercial wines which can be found in almost any wine store or instead, you can seek out excellent, value wines which put to shame those cheap wines. Certain discount wine stores provide not only excellent prices but also an interesting selection and good service. I want to highlight three such stores which continue to do an especially good job, places where I go to seek bargains: Bin Ends in Braintree & Needham, Wine Connextion in North Andover, and Rapid Liquors in Stoneham. Shop at any of those stores and you won't be disappointed.

Favorite Wine Stores: This is a small list of wine stores which consistently impress me with their selection and service. Each shop is worthy of your patronage and wine lovers should make the effort to visit these places if you have not done so yet.
Lower Falls Wine Company in Newton Lower Falls
Wine-Sense in Andover
Wine Bottega in Boston's North End
Central Bottle Wine & Provisions in Cambridge
Wine Press in Brookline
Streetcar Wines in Jamaica Plain

Favorite Wine Breakfast: As a rather novel wine tasting, representatives of Chapel Down, an English winery, held a tasting of a couple of their Sparkling Wines at a breakfast at Bar Boulud. Smoked Salmon & Eggs atop English muffins with delicious bubbly. In my post, The British Are Coming! Chapel Down Sparkling Wine, I wrote about my experience, impressed with the first two English Sparkling wines I've ever tasted. The English climate is similar to that of the Champagne region during the 1960s-1980s. And their chalky soils are similar as well, so it isn't a stretch to understand why English Sparkling wines have become such a hot item.

Favorite Wine Dinner: A deconstructed Flammekeuche with some killer Alsatian wines, surely a combination for success. At Bistro du Midi, I dined with Jean-Frédéric Hugel, of the famed Alsatian winery Hugel et Fils, discussing Wines Without Make-UpAlsatian wine pairs so well with various foods and you should always have some in your cellar. Besides the delicious food and wines, there was plenty of interesting conversation, especially concerning the philosophy that wine is made in the vineyard, not the cellar. And two of the wines from this dinner ended up in my Top Wine lists.

Runner-Up Favorite Wine Dinner: This category was a tie, between a Moldovan wine dinner and a Portuguese wine dinner. The Moldovan wine dinner at Moldova Restaurant, in Newton, exposed me to Moldovan cuisine for the first time, accompanied by numerous tasty Moldovan wines, including two which ended up on my Top Wine lists. I strongly recommend you dine here to experience a taste of Moldova. The Portuguese wine dinner at Terra Nostra, in Fall River, was such a fun evening as I was hosted by the good people of LGL Imports, a distributor of Portuguese wines. The food was excellent, including some intriguing Portuguese dishes including Grilled Limpets and Cow's Leg Stew. The wines were compelling as well, which wasn't a surprise, and I would definitely dine here again the next time I was in Fall River.

Favorite Regional Wine Tasting: At the 2017 Boston Expo, the Wines of Georgia had a major presence, with approximately 18 producers showcasing their wines. I ended up tasting about sixty of their wines, a broad swath through their intriguing and delicious offerings. You can read about my experiences in multiple articles, including Boston Wine Expo: Giorgi Samanisvili & Wines of Georgia, Boston Wine Expo: Wines of Georgia (Part 1)Boston Wine Expo: Wines of Georgia (Part 2), and Boston Wine Expo: Wines of Georgia (Part 3). A number of wines from this tasting also ended up on this year's Top Wine lists. With 8000 years of history, Georgian wine has much to offer, and you can read numerous reasons to taste their wine in another of my articles, Drink More Georgian Wine! 

Favorite Wine Seminar: Also at the 2017 Boston Wine Expo, I attended one of their wine seminars,  Quinta Vale D. Maria, Port & The Douro, which was informative, fun and absolutely delicious. This Portuguese winery has an interesting history and the owner, Cristiano Van Zeller, was an excellent speaker, explaining their history and philosophy. The wines we tasted, especially the comparative ones, were fascinating and we even got to taste a wine from 1870! Two wines from this seminar ended up on my Top Wine lists. As was mentioned at this seminar, "Port is the greatest poetry in wine."

Favorite Large-Scale Tasting: This year, this award goes to the 2017 Boston Wine Expo, a huge consumer wine event. I ended up tasting about 175 wines and spirits, and sixteen of those wines ended up on my Top Wine lists. The Expo has its issues, primarily due to the large crowds that attend, but there are ways to maximize your wine exploration and enjoyment, from attending the Seminars to focusing your tasting on certain regions and/or wine styles. Unfortunately, it seems that there won't be a Boston Wine Expo in 2018.

Most Unique Wine Pairings: What wine would you pair with a showerhead? Or an ornate faucet? I had the opportunity to make such pairings, using only Georgian wines. At a Georgian Wine presentation at Lefroy Brooks in New York City, we tasted the attendees through four Georgian wines, pairing each wine with one of the bathroom creations from Lefroy Brooks. It was an unusual pairing combination but lots of fun. The attendees loved the wines and the company enjoyed the presentation so much that they had us do it again for them in Chicago this past October, which was also another big success.

Favorite Sangria: Quincy has become a fascinating culinary destination and one of the new restaurants is 16C, which is owned by Kerri Lynch-Delaney, who is the niece of famed Chef Barbara Lynch. Sitting at the bar, I opted for their Red Sangria, which is made with blood orange, dragonfruit, and raspberry. The different fruits are what intrigued me, and I was very pleased with the Sangria. It was fruity, with a nice depth of flavor, and with only a mild sweetness. I'm picky about Sangria and this is actually one of the best versions I've tasted in quite some time. I could have easily drank a few of these without feeling like I was in a sugar coma.

Favorite Wine Travel Event: This past June, I attended TasteCamp Maryland, exploring the food and drink or Maryland. TasteCamp is always one of my favorite events as a small group of wine writers get together to explore a wine region, though the event has expanded to include additional alcoholic beverages as well. Maryland was a compelling destination, with delicious and interesting wines and spirits, such as those of McClintock Distilling Co. and Tenth Ward Distilling Company. We were based in Frederick, which has some delicious restaurants, though we traveled a bit to various regions within Maryland. I very much look forward to the next TasteCamp, wherever it might be.

Favorite Wine Rant: My weekly Monday Rants cover a wide range of food and drink-related issues and my favorite one dealing with wine this year was Rant: Become A Wine Activist. It touched on an article written by Peter Weltman, which states "Wine transcends borders and bridges cultures, and it can be used to improve lives if we make the right purchases." Though wine is often seen as a mere luxury, its purchase can possess the power to help people as "Financial support of a country’s wines contributes to the well-being of regions, countries, and producers." I like how this article helps to elevate the status of wine, and how it can benefit people from all over the world. It is definitely an idea we all should embrace when engaged in wine buying.

What were some of your favorite wine-related items this year?