Rant: Boston+ Area Restaurants, Want To Be Cutting Edge? Embrace Sake

Many restaurants want to be on the cutting edge of the drinks world, offering wine from hot new regions, local beer from micro-distilleries, and intriguing new spirits. However, why haven't non-Asian restaurants in the Boston+ area embraced Sake? There are extremely few non-Asian restaurants that carry Sake, and it's usually only one or two, at best. When's the last time a Sommelier at a non-Asian restaurant recommended Sake with your dinner?

This perpetuates a stereotype that Sake is only for Sushi and Asian cuisine. However, Sake pairs well with so many different cuisines, from Italian to French, Mexican to Spanish. They say that Sake does not get into fights with food, meaning that it will never overwhelm a dish. Sake can and should be paired with appetizers, entrees and dessert. It's an excellent accompaniment to a diverse selection of foods, from burgers to pizza, seafood to poultry, mushrooms to cheese. Its versatility is without question and sometimes it's even better a better pairing than wine.

Check out my article, The Science of Sake & Food Pairings, to understand many of the reasons why Sake works so well with various cuisines. You can also read some of my related, and more specific articles, on Sake pairings, including: Sake For Thanksgiving, Pairing Cheese & Sake, and Sake, Seafood & Lobster Anywhere. I've done Sake pairing dinners at Italian and French restaurants, and at home, I've paired Sake with so many different foods. 

Why don't more non-Asian restaurants see the value in adding Sake to their menus? With so few non-Asian restaurants showcasing Sake, it would be a great way to make your restaurant more unique. There isn't a single Boston+ area restaurant which wouldn't benefit from adding Sake to their Drinks list. Let's see a new Burger & Sake restaurant open, or a Pizza & Sake spot. Let's see a sommelier at an Italian bistro recommending Sake with a pasta dish. Let's see a seafood restaurant recommending Sake with fried clams or a lobster roll.  

One of the main obstacles to adding Sake to the menus at non-Asian restaurants is probably a lack of knowledge about Sake. That is simple to remedy, as all you need to do is educate yourself. There are Sake classes you can take or Sake consultants you can speak to. Sommeliers spend time learning about new wine regions, so why not just extend that education to Sake? Look at it as a new challenge to face, to learn more about this fascinating beverage, and see how well it pairs with a myriad of cuisines.

Those pioneering restaurants willing to take a chance on Sake would be in a unique position, with a new selling point for consumers, standing out from other restaurants. They could lead a path to a future where Sake becomes more popular and mainstream. So what are you waiting for?  

Boston+ area, non-Asian restaurants, step up your game and become more cutting edge by embracing Sake!

Rant: How To Mainstream Sake

The popularity of Sake continues to grow each year but it still remains largely a niche beverage. How do we make Sake more mainstream, so that it is as popular as beer or wine?

There are plenty of valuable suggestions on how this can be accomplished, from more Sake education to making Sake labels more approachable, however most of those will only make incremental progress to the objective of mainstreaming Sake. Slow but steady progress. As we ponder this issue, we must ask what suggestion might have the greatest and quickest impact? 

Last week, I had reason to contemplate this question once again, and my answer is the same as it has been for quite some time. I think the greatest impact, the best way to make Sake more mainstream, is by getting more non-Asian restaurants to place Sake on their menus. 

Let's see a new Burger & Sake restaurant open, or a Pizza & Sake spot. Let's see a sommelier at an Italian bistro recommending Sake with a pasta dish. Let's see a seafood restaurant recommending Sake with fried clams or a lobster roll.  

Currently, Sake is mostly found at Asian restaurants, so the average consumer equates it only with Asian cuisine, from sushi to katsu. That misconception prevents Sake from becoming more mainstream, relegating it only to a certain type of cuisine, ensuring it remains more of a niche beverage. We need non-Asian restaurants to have the courage to place Sake on their drink menus, to show consumers that Sake pairs well with a diverse selection of cuisines and foods.

Sake can and should be paired with appetizers, entrees and dessert. It works well with a myriad of cuisines from Italian to French, Mexican to Spanish. It is an excellent accompaniment to a diverse selection of foods, from burgers to pizza, seafood to poultry, mushrooms to cheese. Its versatility is without question yet few restaurants, except for Asian spots, take advantage. In some cases, it is even a better food pairing than wine.

I've previously written about how well Sake pairs with food, in articles such as The Science Of Sake & Food Pairings, Pairing Cheese & Sake, Slurping Oysters & Sipping Sake, Sake, Seafood & Lobster, and Sake For Thanksgiving. I've presided at Sake dinners at local restaurants, pairing it with Italian and French cuisine.

Locally, the Tasting Counter, in Somerville, is the only non-Asian restaurant to have any type of significant Sake program. With their dinner, you can opt for the Sake pairing, and get to taste ten different Sakes with their fantastic and creative cuisine. They've done an excellent job in showcasing the versatility and potential of Sake with all types of dishes. Why can't other local restaurants follow their example and institute their own Sake programs?

We need many more non-Asian restaurants to put Sake on their drink lists, to follow the lead of the pioneering Tasting Counter. We need to see Sake available at pizza joints, burger spots, Mexican restaurants, French bistros, fried chicken places, and so much more. We need Sake to be seen as a commonplace choice wherever you dine. As long as Sake is seen as only an accompaniment for Asian cuisine, then it will never become mainstream, remaining forever a niche beverage.

These changes will involve some work for restaurants. It will require more education about Sake on the behalf of restaurants and sommeliers, who should be excited to learn about this compelling beverage. They need to learn how Sake will pair well with their cuisine. They need to learn how to persuade diners to take a chance on a Sake pairings. None of this is difficult, and mainly involves an investment of time and a willingness to experiment

Those pioneering restaurants willing to take a chance on Sake would be in a unique position, with a new selling point for consumers, standing out from other restaurants. They could lead a path to a future where Sake becomes more popular and mainstream. So what are you waiting for?

Kanpai!

2018 Éric Teixer Chat Fou Côtes du Rhône: Crazy For This Cat

Sometimes your first impression of a wine, once you taste that first sip, is that it is pure delicious. You don't think about the wine but instead savor its taste. You crave more of it, each sip continuing to bring pleasure. It can easily be enjoyed on its own or with food, from pizza to burgers. You want to share it with friends, to allow them to share the compelling taste of this wine. 

Recently, that is exactly how I felt about the 2018 Éric Teixer Chat Fou Côtes du Rhône (about $23).

A couple weeks ago, I was at the Market at Frank restaurant, and my good friend Adam Japko highly recommended this wine so I bought a couple bottles. I then opened a bottle on the day after Thanksgiving, enjoying it with some leftover turkey dinner. It was absolutely delicious, but there was more to the wine than that. 

The producer, Éric Texier, is a former nuclear engineer from Bordeaux whose passion for wine changed the course of his life. In 1995, he moved to the southern Beaujolais and started learning how to make wine. Eventually, he purchased small parcels of land in the northern Rhône Valley, in Brézème and St. Julien-en-St.-Alban. His vineyards are now certified organic, and he also uses some Biodynamic practices. He is a minimalist wine maker, but is still willing to experiment. Éric has become one of the most compelling producers in the northern Rhône, and after enjoying the Chat Fou, I need to seek out more Texier wines. 

The 2018 Éric Teixer Chat Fou Côtes du Rhône is a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% white grapes, including Clairette, Viognier, and Chasselas. The grapes come from the granite-soiled St.Julien-en-St.Alban vineyard. The grapes are fermented with native yeasts in concrete tanks, and it is then aged for a year in concrete. The wine is certified organic, unfiltered, unfined, and has a 13% ABV. In French, "Chat Fou" means "crazy cat." 

The wine is intended to be fresh and light, and it certainly accomplishes that objective. It has an alluring fruity nose, with hints of spice. On the palate, you first realize that it is delicious and you're quick to take another taste. However, if you take a few moments to ponder over the wine, you realize it offers some intriguing complexity as well. It's an easy drinking wine but it is far from simple. Besides the delicious red fruit flavors, cherry and raspberry, there are spice notes as well as a subtle minerality. It is a well balanced wine with a very pleasing finish, excellent acidity, and it wasn't long before the bottle was empty.

It went well with Thanksgiving leftovers, but is versatile enough to pair well with many different dishes, from pizza to pasta, burgers to stews. Or just sip it on its own, reveling in its delicious taste. Highly recommended!

Rant: Stop Stressing Over Thanksgiving Wines

Every year countless people stress over which wines to pair with their Thanksgiving dinner. They read all the wine articles, which give recommendations of which wines you should drink, though many of those articles are similar year to year. They speak to the staff at their local wine store, who give them recommendations. These people also worry that their holiday might be a failure unless they have the correct wines. The holidays can be stressful enough without having to worry about the wine, especially when those worries are generally needless.

Stop stressing so much about Thanksgiving wines!

Cast your memory back to last year's Thanksgiving. Can you remember which specific wines you had with dinner? Can you remember the specific wines you had with Thanksgiving dinner two years ago? Doubtful.

I am sure that most people won't be able to remember except maybe in the most general terms. Maybe they recall having had a Pinot Noir or a Riesling but they are unlikely to recall the specific producer or much else about the wine. What they are more likely to remember is the good (at least hopefully it was good) time they had, the family and friends that shared their table. They might remember whether the food and wine was good or bad but the specifics may be foggy.

Do you really need specific Thanksgiving wine recommendations? I don't think so. The more I ponder the question, the more I realize that all you need for Thanksgiving are some good wines, the varietals and/or blends being much less important. As long as they do not blatantly clash with the meal, then they should work and few wines are going to so blatantly clash. Drink wines you'll enjoy and don't worry so much about "perfect pairings."

A Thanksgiving meal is diverse, with many different flavors, from savory to sweet, and many different textures. No single wine is a perfect pairing with all of these different dishes. So you need wines that people will enjoy in of their own right. I don't think too many hosts are seeking the "perfect" wine pairing. They simply want something that people will enjoy and which won't greatly detract from the food.

Plus, who'll remember the wines next year?

We should remember that any wine shared with good friends and family is likely to taste better, or at least seem that way, than one drank alone. The circumstances of the day, the good feelings, the fond memories, the thanks for the past year, will all lead to your wine seeming better. And it is all those urrounding circumstances that people will most remember about Thanksgiving. The wine will always take the back seat.

The wine is simply an extra, not a necessity. It pales in importance to everything else about the holiday. Like the Whos from "The Grinch Who Stole Xmas", there should still be joy even if all of the food and wine have been taken away.

I will probably bring a variety of wines to my Thanksgiving feast, a mix of sparkling wine, white, red and dessert wine. Having a good variety is beneficial, especially as different people have different preferences. In general, I will pick interesting and delicious wines that I feel people will enjoy. I won't spend much time worrying about pairing them with specific dishes and foods. I just want wines that will make people smile, that will enhance the spirit of the day.

Whatever you do for Thanksgiving, enjoy yourself and appreciate all that you have, rather than worry about what you do not.

(This is a revised version of a post from 2016. My basic sentiment has not changed one iota since that time and I felt it was important enough to raise it again.)

Rappie Pie & Valdespino "Tio Diego" Amontillado: A Comfort Pairing

Rappie Pie, a traditional Arcadian dish. Valdespino "Tio Diego" Amontillado, produced by a bodega where embraces tradition. Together, they produce a compelling pairing that works on multiple levels, satisfying the mind, heart and soul.

International Sherry Week, which begins today and runs through October 14, is a celebration of the wonders of Sherry, a fortified wine made in a specific demarcated region in southern Spain. It is a time for the ardent promotion of this fascinating and delicious wine, to expose more people to this wine, hoping some will become Sherry converts. This year, about 2,500 Sherry events will be held worldwide, including several in the Boston area. One of these events is a blogger competition, where 20 chosen bloggers received a bottle of Sherry and had to create a perfect food pairing for it. I was one of those fortunate 20 people and ultimately, after careful deliberation, decided to pair my Sherry with Rappie Pie.

I was sent a bottle of the Valdespino "Tio Diego" Amontillado ($25-$30). The history of this bodega extends back to the 13th century, during a time when the Moors, Muslims from North Africa, controlled most of Southern Spain, including Jerez. On October 9, 1264, King Alphonse X, also known as El Sabio, the “Wise,” successfully conquered Jerez, seizing control back from the Moors. As a reward for their bravery and loyalty, King Alphonse awarded land and vineyards to some of his best knights, including Alonso Valdespino, the start of the Valdespino's involvement in the wine business, making it one of the oldest Sherry bodegas in the region.

During the Modern era, in 1999, Valdespino was purchased by Bodegas Grupo Estevez, a family-owned group that was established in 1974 and owns other bodegas as well. They have allowed Valdespino to remain true to their traditions and old winemaking methods, as well as maintaining their concern for the importance of terroir. Grupo Estévez owns about 800 hectares of vineyards, with 256 hectares in the famed Macharnudo Pago with its valued albariza soils, considered the best place to grow the Palomino grape. There is also a sub-area within this Pago known as the Macharnudo Alto, situated at the highest elevation of the vineyard.

The Palomino grapes for the Valdespino "Tio Diego" Amontillado are all sourced from the Macharnudo Alto, making it a single-vineyard Sherry, which is rare in the Sherry industry. Uniquely, it is also one of the few Sherries that is still fermented in cask, in American oak, with nearly all other Sherries fermented in stainless steel. This Amontillado begins its life by spending from eight to twelve years under flor, like a Fino Sherry, and then spends another five to eight years without flor, aging oxidatively, averaging about 16-18 years in total.

This Sherry has a special place in my heart as I first tasted it back in September 2010, while visiting  Bodegas Grupo Estevez.  My time in the Jerez region, exploring various bodegas, was a fascinating and wondrous trip, with many great memories, helping to solidify my deep passion for Sherry. I previously described the Valdespino "Tio Diego" Amontillado as: "It had a compelling aroma, and the complex taste was nutty with rich caramel, vanilla and spice, as well as lots of acidity. It also possessed a long and pleasing finish, another sherry I would strongly recommend." When I think of this Sherry, I think of it as delicious and comforting, fueling my belly and soul.

As for Rappie Pie, we need to delve once again into history, back to the 17th century, when the Acadians were the earliest European settlers of Canada, having originated in France, and primarily settled in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. Unfortunately, the English expelled most of them in the 18th century, with numerous Acadians relocating to Louisiana. When Acadians were allowed to return to Nova Scotia, they found that most of the best land was already claimed by others, so they were left with land that was hard to grow much else except potatoes, making it a central ingredient of their diets. Though there are unsubstantiated legends that rappie pie was first created in the 16th century, there is much more evidence of its origins beginning around 1755, when potatoes became so important to Acadians.

Rappie pie is a made from grated potatoes or in French, "patates râpées." Once the potatoes are grated, most of the water and starch is removed. This used to be done by squeezing the potatoes in a cheese cloth, a laborious process, so that it would take two to three days to make rappie pie. It is thought that the starch that was removed from the potatoes would later be used for their clothing, wasting nothing in the preparation of rappie pie.

Later during the preparation, a hot broth would be added, replacing the lost water, along with meat (such as chicken or pork), onions and pork fat to make a hearty, casserole-type dish. The amount of added broth was usually judged by the consistency of the mixture, and some people prefer a wetter texture while other prefer less. There are also a number of variations on the basic ingredients, some people using different types of meats, from rabbit to beef, or even seafood like clams. Much depended on what ingredients were readily available to the people at that time.

Considering the length of time it took to prepare and cook rappie pie, it primarily was for special occasions. Preparation was also a joint effort, with both the men and women taking on specific roles, the men engaged in the laborious task of removing the water and starch from the potatoes while the women would prepare the both and pick the chickens clean of meat. The men and women continued working together on the rest of the tasks, a true family project, and the rappie pie would commonly be made and served in large rectangular pans. Recipes generally weren't written down, instead being passed down from person to person, generation to generation.

Once you have a plate of rappie pie in front of you, you might top it with butter or molasses, and there is an old adage that the English use butter and the French molasses. Some people may even top their rappie pie with other items, such as even ketchup, but that is much less common. My personal preference is butter, though some of my family like molasses.

My wife and her family, the Babins/Babines, are originally from Nova Scotia and they introduced me to Rappie Pie. The family didn't write down their recipe, but passed it down from generation to generation. As making rappie pie was a special occasion, we decided to transform it into an annual family event, a time for everyone to gather together outside of the usual marriages, christenings and other formal family functions. In fact, we ended up holding these gatherings two to three times a year, inviting all of the family, from great-grand children to cousins, and many friends as well. They were informal gatherings, with plenty of delicious food and drink, and brought our family closer.

We are fortunate that making rappie pie has gotten easier to prepare, as you can now purchase frozen, pre-grated potato blocks, so we don't need to spend all the laborious time removing the water and starch. However, it still remains an all-day task, though that is better than two or three days. We do have family that still makes it in a traditional manner. We have also written down the recipe, so future generations will be able to continue the tradition, to ensure it endures. We are not alone, with numerous other families with Nova Scotian connections making their own rappie pie. There is even a Facebook group Rappie Pie Rules, with over 3500 members, from all over the world, sharing a love for making rappie pie. 

So, does Rappie Pie pair well with an Amontillado Sherry? 

Let's first consider the geeky science behind Sherry and food pairings. As Sherry contains approximately 307 volatile compounds, far more than most others wines, it is extremely versatile and good friendly. Because of all these volatile compounds, Sherry has an affinity for many different foods, which share the same aromatic family. No other single wine has an affinity as many different aromatic families. Unlike other wines, Sherry also contain a group of compounds, called diketopiperazines, which enhance the flavor of umami-rich foods. As Amontillado is an oxidative style, its dominant phenols include benzoic acid (almond aroma), cinnamic acid (cinnamon aroma), phenolic aldehyde (walnut aroma), and coumarin (vanillin, tonka bean and cut hay aromas).

In summary, and at its simplest, all of this scientific information means that Sherry is a killer pairing for a wide variety of foods. That is all many consumers want to know.

The Valdespino "Tio Diego" Amontillado is a silky, elegant wine, with an alluring aroma and pleasant, complex and primary flavors of nuts, caramel, and vanilla. There is also a hint of salinity, beautiful acidity, and a lengthy, soothing finish. Its flavors complemented and enhanced the mild flavors of the chicken and pork, touched by the herbs and seasoning, we added to the rappie pie, as well as the slightly smoky bacon atop it. Chicken and pork are traditional ingredients for my family, and they are also traditional pairings for Amontillado Sherry. The sweet onions and glutinous potatoes also meshed well with the slightly, almost sweet flavors of the Amontillado. When you also consider how numerous people enjoy molasses, with its sweet and strong flavors, atop their rappie pie, then it's very easy to see how this Amontillado, certainly milder than molasses, would be even more pleasing. Everyone at dinner was impressed with this pairing. 

Let's now consider a different rationale for wine pairing, one which seems especially fitting for this pairing. Rappie pie is hearty comfort food, filling your belly with joy, especially during the Fall and Winter. It's not an intellectual dish, but one which appeals to your soul. When you enjoy such a dish, you probably don't want to think much about the wine pairing, preferring to revel in the simple joy of the food. Thus, you desire a "comfort wine," something which you don't have to think much about but which will give you much pleasure.

The Valdespino "Tio Diego" Amontillado fits that description, its elegant smoothness and pleasing flavors easy to love. Each sip makes you smile, and you feel it in your heart and soul. You certainly can intellectualize this Sherry and food pairings, but you can ignore that aspect as well and simply enjoy it as a comfort wine, one which would pair well with many different comfort foods. Most consumers don't understand the science behind food pairings, but they can easily understand the idea of pairing a comfort wine with a comfort food. Maybe that is the best, and easiest, path to getting more people to enjoy Sherry.

The next night, we ate leftover rappie pie, fried up in a pan, and sipped the rest of the Valdespino "Tio Diego" Amontillado. It still felt like a delicious pairing, a cozy duo that continued to bring me comfort and joy.

Here is a Recipe for Rappie Pie:

Ingredients
20 lbs  Potatoes
2          3-4 lb chickens
2 lbs     Pork chops or boneless pork chops
6           Medium onions
1 tsp     Ground thyme
1/2 tsp  Ground bay leaves
1/2 tsp   Poultry seasoning
2 tbsp    Salt
1 tbsp    Pepper
20          Strips of bacon

Directions
1) Place the cleaned chickens, pork chops and seasonings into a large pot covered with cold water. Simmer for 1.5 to 2 hours until the meat falls easily off the bones.
2) Remove the meat and cut into small pieces, placing them into a large bowl. Return the bones to the pot and continue cooking until the stock is required.
3) Peel the potatoes, soaking in cold water to retain color until needed. Finely grate about 10 potatoes at a time with a hand grater or in a food processor. Place the grated potatoes into a cheesecloth bag and squeeze until all the water and starch is removed and the potatoes are quite dry. Repeat for the rest of the potatoes. Measure the liquid removed from the potatoes as equal amounts of stock will be added later.
4) Finely dice the onions and then caramelize them in a pan.
5) Put all of the dried potatoes into a large bowl and gradually add the hot stock in the amount equal to the liquid removed from the potatoes. Stir slowly to scald the potatoes until they have a jelly-like consistency, making sure there are no lumps.
6) Cover the bottom of a well-greased 20 x 12 x 3.5 inch pan with half of the potatoes. Place a layer of the chicken and pork mixture atop the potatoes. Then, place a layer of onions atop the chicken and pork. Cover all of this with the rest of the potatoes. Place the bacon slices atop the potatoes.
7) Bake in a preheated over at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 3.5-4 hours, or until a golden crust forms on top.

Serves about 20 people though you can easily cut the ingredients in half to make a smaller portion. Instead of chicken and pork, you could also substitute rabbit, lamb, beef, clams, scallops or some other protein.

(For more background and information about Sherry, please check out my 40+ articles on All About Sherry.)

Wine School At Asta: Theresa Paopao Presents Fiano

Fiano is an indigenous Italian grape that might extend back to the time of ancient Rome. It has been theorized, without definitive evidence, that Fiano might be the same grape written about by Pliny the Elder and Columella, referred to as Vitis apianes ("Vine of the bees"). Besides its potentially ancient origins, Fiano also produces delicious and interesting white wines.

If you want to learn more about Fiano, then I strongly recommend you visit Asta, a tasting menu restaurant located at 47 Massachusetts Ave. in Boston. Theresa Paopao, Asta's sommelier, has recently started a Wine School, an afternoon wine lounge inspired by New York Times wine critic Eric Asimov’s monthly column. Asta's Wine School is in session from Tuesday to Friday, from 4pm-7pm. Recently, my good friend Adam Japko and I stopped by Asta to check out the new Wine School and we both were equally impressed.

Back on April 26, Asimov's Wine School post dealt with Fiano, so this month, Theresa is highlighting that grape. Theresa has selected seven Fiano wines, from the Campania region of Italy, to showcase, six single-varietal and one blend. All of the wines are offered by the glass, though you can also order a horizontal or vertical flight of three wines. I'd suggest you try the flights, as comparison tastings are an excellent way to better understand the various expressions of a grape. Not all Fiano wines are the same.

This Wine School is completely causal and informal, and Theresa will provide you as much, or as little, information as you desire about Fiano and the wines. Theresa is very knowledgeable and personable, and is a fine host for wine school. Her own passion for wine can be infectious and you won't regret stopping by to taste some wines.

In addition, Wine School offers a small list of à la carte dishes which have been specifically created to pair well with your wine. We ordered a few of the dishes and they were delicious, the usual high quality we expect from Asta. The Whipped Salt Cod, atop toast, is a relatively simple dish, but was well executed and addictive. Creamy and salty, with that touch of the sea, it did pair very well with the various Fiano wines. And it is something I'd love to replicate at home. The Pickled Mussels were another relatively simple dish, beautifully executed, and absolutely tasty. The Octopus, atop a Johnnycake, was cooked perfectly, being tender and flavorful. Fiano and seafood is an excellent combination!

Fiano is primarily grown in the Campania region of southern Italy and on the island of Sicily.
In 2003, the area around Avellino in Campania received DOCG status. Fiano di Avellino DOCG wines must contain at least 85% Fiano, and the rest may include Coda di Volpe, Greco, and Trebbiano. Fiano, which produces low yields in the vineyard, faced possible extinction in the later half of the 20th century, but a small group of producers chose to save it, planting more vineyards, especially in the Avellino region. Fiano wines are commonly said to possess intense aromas and strong flavors, and can age well.

Adam and I decided to taste all seven Fiano wines, both flights and the single blend. The horizontal flight ($17/three 2 oz pours), included three wines, all from the same vintage but from different producers. The wines included the 2016 Terradora di Paolo, DOCG Fiano di Avellino ($15/glass), 2016 Vadiaperti DOCG Fiano di Avellino ($12/glass), and 2016 Case d'Alto DOCG Fiano di Avellino ($14/glass). All of these wines saw only stainless steel, and possessed crisp acidity, mineral elements, bright citrus flavors, and honey notes. Yet each possessed its own individuality as well and your favorite will be based on your personal preferences.

My favorite of the three (though I enjoyed all of them) was the Vadiaperti, as besides being simply delicious, it possessed an intriguing complexity, with notes of honey, pear, apple and lemon, bright acidity, mineral elements, and salted nuts. I could easily enjoy this wine on its own, though it went well with the seafood as well.

The vertical flight ($17/three 2 oz pours), included three wines, all from the same producer but from different vintages. The wines included the 2014, 2015 and 2016 vintages of the Casebianche Cumale DOP Fiano Cilento. The Fiano grapes for these wines is from 10-20 year old vines, and the wine sees only stainless steel and then a couple months of bottle aging. In general, these wines all presented with crisp acidity, mineral elements, hints of brininess, bright citrus flavors, and some herbal notes. The 2016 vintage was obviously the freshest and most bright, with the two other vintages starting to get more savory and less fruit notes. I preferred the 2014 vintage, enjoying its more savory aspect, with an almost umami element.

The final wine of the evening, which Theresa referred to as a "Super Fiano," was the 2015 Sangiovanni Paestum, IGT Italy ($7/2 oz taste or $18/glass), a blend of 85% Fiano, 10% Trebbiano, and 5% Greco. The wine spent about 8 months aging in stainless steel. I was enamored with this wine, finding it to be complex and intriguing, delicious and compelling. So much going on in the glass, with notes of honey and citrus, saltiness and bright acidity, minerality and herbs. It possessed some similarities to the other Fiano wines, but had its own uniqueness as well. It paired well with all of the seafood, though I could easily sit outside and sip this on its own.  

Theresa did a great job of selecting wines for her Fiano Wine School and you can still taste the wines tonight or next week at Asta. Next month, Theresa will follow the theme of Asimov's next Wine School article, so look forward to see which region, grape or style gets chosen. Asta's new Wine School is a great way to casually taste and learn about some new wines, while enjoying some delectable small plates, paired with the wines.

Starting the New Year With Crémant d'Alsace & Lobster

January 1, 2018: I chose to open two bottles of Crémant d'Alsace as a delicious way to start the New Year. My first wines of 2018, paired with 12 pounds of Homarus americanus, the American Lobster. Bubbles and the Bounty of the waters of Maine.

Simply put, Crémant d'Alsace is a French sparkling wine from the Alsace region. In Alsace, they have been producing sparkling wines since the early 19th century but it wasn't until 1976 that the Crémant d'Alsace AOC was created. It's produced in a similar fashion to Champagne, though there are some differences as well. The term "crémant" means "creamy" and originally referred to sparkling wines that were produced with less pressure, which tended to make them taste more creamy than effervescent.

The Crémant d'Alsace AOC has strict regulations on viticulture and viniculture, and six grapes are permitted including Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Auxerrois Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. Most of their Blanc de Blancs is made from Pinot Blanc while Pinot Noir is the only grape permitted in their Rosé. Total production of Crémant d'Alsace, which comprises about 22% of the region's production, is about 33 million bottles. However, only about 300,000 bottles are imported into the U.S.

Americans need to drink more Crémant d'Alsace! In fact, Americans need to drink more wines, of all types, from Alsace. As I've said repeatedly before, the wines of Alsace are generally not on the radar of the average consumer but they should be. They can often provide excellent value and taste. They are enjoyable while young but can also age well. They can provide a sense of history, as well as showcase state of the art wine making. They pair well with a diverse variety of foods and cuisines. And at their most basic, they are absolutely delicious.

To learn more about Crémant d'Alsace, check out some of my previous articles where I share my passion for this tasty bubbly, including: Crémant d'Alsace & The Spartans At Thermopylae, Schoenheitz Winery: A Taste Of Beauty, Puritan & Co.: Alsatian Wine Advice, Gustave Lorentz: More Alsatian Wine Treasures, Alsatian Wines & Pheasant at Craigie On Main and Crémant d'Alsace: A New Year's Eve Recommendation.

The first of the wines for the evening was the 2014 Domaine Albert Mann Extra Brut Crémant d'Alsace (about $24). The winery is a union of two families, Mann (who have been wine growers since the start of the 17th century) and Barhelmé (wine growers since 1654). Currently, the winery is owned and operated by Maurice and Jacky Barthelmé, with their wives, Marie-Claire and Marie-Thérèse. The Barthelmés believe: "The goal of the estate is to produce wine that is in harmony with nature. Wine is the memory of the grape and is capable of transmitting the taste of the earth." In adherence to this belief, their estate is certified organic and has been Biodynamic since 1997. Their estate includes 23 hectares of vineyards, broken up into about 100 separate plots, growing Riesling (29%), Gewurztraminer (20%), Pinot Blanc/Auxerrois (19%), Pinot Gris (17%), Pinot Noir (11%) and Muscat (3%).

This Crémant d'Alsace is a blend of Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. With a fine golden color and a myriad of tiny bubbles, it possesses an alluring aroma, with elements of fresh fruit. On the palate, the Crémant is fresh, crisp and dry, with delicious flavors of green apple, pear and hints of lemon. Though it is fruit driven, there is complexity in the palate as well, with a touch of minerality and hints of spice. There is a light, elegant creaminess to this wine with a lengthy, pleasing finish, ending with more fruit notes. It livened up my mouth and brought to mind the coming Spring. It was my favorite of the two Crémants and at this price point is an excellent value.

The second wine of the evening was the NV Meyer-Fonne Crémant d'Alsace Brut Extra (about $24). The winery is currently owned and operated by Félix Meyer, the third generation in his family since his grandfather founded the domaine in the late 19th century. The vineyards comprise about 12 hectares, over seven communes, each bringing its own unique terroir. Though the winery has been modernized, Félix still follows some traditions, such as aging wines on the lees in large, older foudres, and has a strong respect for terroir.

This Crémant d'Alsace is a blend of 60% Pinot Auxerrois, 20% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Blanc, and 5% Pinot Noir. Many of those grapes are sourced from vines that are about 45 years old. The lees rest in the bottle for a minimum of 12 months before disgorgement. It's color is a bit paler gold than the Mann but has equally as fine bubbles. Its aroma is more subtle, with mild fruit and a hint of brioche.   On the palate, this Crémant is fresh, crisp and dry, with more savory notes, underlying apple and citrus notes as well as a backbone of minerality. There is a touch of bitterness on the palate too, which isn't off-putting, and adds complexity to the taste. The ending is long and satisfying and is also a good value at this price point. Though I preferred the Mann of the two, I still enjoyed this wine and it is worthy of my recommendation too.

How did the Crémant d'Alsace pair with our lobster dinner? In general, Sparkling wine is a versatile food wine and often pairs very well with seafood. With the sweetness and rich of lobster, especially dipped in drawn butter, it helps to have a wine with good acidity and both of these wines possessed that trait. Plus, their tiny bubbles helped to cleanse the palate between bites. The complex flavors of the two wines also complemented the delicious lobster. It was a killer pairing, well appreciated by everyone at the table. And such a hedonistic way to begin the New Year.

With Valentine's Day coming, I'd highly recommend you emulate my dinner, and share some lobsters with your significant other, pairing it with some tasty Crémant d'Alsace. Or just drink some Crémant d'Alsace for another special occasion. Or just drink it because it is a Tuesday or Wednesday night.

(I received both of these Crémants as media samples.)

Sherry Week Events at Taberna de Haro & Wine Press

Sherry, that delicious and fascinating fortified wine from the Jerez region of Spain, has a special place in my heart. I've written over 40 articles that touch on Sherry, most collected in All About Sherry, including a five-part history of Sherry, food pairings (including Thanksgiving), Aged Sherry, reviews, and more. Sherry isn't appreciated sufficiently in the U.S., and you still can find some amazing values for aged Sherry. You should explore Sherry and learn to understand its nature and allure.

Next week, from November 6-12, you'll have that opportunity as it is International Sherry Week. Special Sherry events are being held all across the world and there are two local spots, both in Brookline, which are hosting events. I strongly encourage you to attend at least one Sherry event, and hope that you might attend even more than one.

The Wine Press, located at 1024 Beacon Street, Brookline, will host a Sherry seminar with Gonzalez Byass, a 5th generation family winery that was founded in 1835. Back in 2010, I visited Gonzalez Byass, and got to experience a number of their delicious and impressive Sherries. The winery also has many interesting stories to tell so attending this seminar should be a great time.

The seminar will give you a history of their winery, as well as the Jerez region, plus will teach you all about Sherry.  This will be a classroom setting with a guided tasting and light pairings. You might taste Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado and Pedro Ximinez. And you'll learn how these Sherries pair with various foods.

The seminar cost $10 per person and you can purchase tickets through Eventbrite. There will be two hour-long seminars, one at 5:30pm and the other at 6:30pm. Each attendant will also receive at $10 gift card to The Wine Press, and I bet you'll want to buy some Sherry once you complete this seminar.

Note: You must be 21 years of age to attend

Unsurprisingly, Taberna de Haro, which provides great support to Sherry year-round, is hosting numerous Sherry events for International Sherry Week. Taberna de Haro has the largest Sherry selection in the Boston area and it is always a pleasure to see what new Sherries they have to offer. And next week, their passion for Sherry will be even more evident.

First, all week long they will have: 
--Additional craft Sherry cocktails, beyond the usual deep selection
--Sherry Pairings both by the glass and by the bottle
--Sherry Flights
--And 20% off full-bottles of Sherry

Second, on Monday, November 6, they will host Industry Night Party, where you can bring a bottle of sherry to Taberna (optional) to enjoy with friends and colleagues. Tapas and lots more sherry will be available, as well the week’s special Sherry Cocktails and Flights.

Third, on Tuesday, November 7, they will host a tasting, “I’ll Make You a Sherry Lover in 6 Glasses or Less.” For those who think sherry is all sweet and cheap or just not their cup of tea, Chef Deborah Hansen believes she can change your mind. She'll serve 6 perfectly approachable sherries paired with traditional tapas.
The cost is $60 per person (plus tax and gratuity) and please call 617-277-8272, in the evening, to pre-pay and reserve.

Fourth, on Wednesday, November 8, they will offer a tasting, “So You Think You Might Be Obsessed with Sherry. This will be a "support group" and provocative tasting to fuel your obsession.  Deborah will 6 high-end sherries with traditional and creative tapas.
The cost is $75 per person (plus tax and gratuity) and please call 617-277-8272, in the evening, to pre-pay and reserve.

Fifth, on Thursday, November 9, they will pair Manzanillas and Oysters. You will get 6 complimentary oysters with every bottle of Manzanilla Sherry you purchase. Experience the ocean in a whole new way.

Sixth, on Friday, November 10, and Saturday, November 11, there will be a Sherry Flow-Through.
Drink various sherries all through your meal - like they do in Jerez - and get a beautiful sherry poster.

Drink More Sherry!

2010 Gloria Ferrer Anniversary Cuvée: Plus Waffles & Bacon

Waffles, Bacon & Bubbly: The Lunch of Champions

This past Sunday, I enjoyed a delectable lunch of home-made waffles and bacon, accompanied by a bottle of Sparkling Wine. First, as I've long said, traditional breakfast dishes taste just as good if you serve them for lunch or dinner. Who says you can't have a stack of blueberry pancakes for dinner? It isn't easy finding restaurants serving such breakfast items for lunch or dinner, but you can always prepare them at home. I love waffles and I'll eat them at any time, whether it's noon or nine in the evening.

Second, I've also said on multiple occasions that more people should drink Sparkling Wine with food. It can make an excellent pairing for a wide diversity of dishes. Unfortunately, many people primarily see bubbly as a celebratory wine, something to have before you begin eating. It most often is the opening toast to a dinner and other wine is brought out for the actual meal. However, we have to get over that preconception and embrace Sparkling Wine and food pairings, drinking bubbly during the entire course of your meal.

It doesn't have to be a special occasion when you break out a bottle of bubbly. I opened a bottle of Sparkling Wine on Sunday just because a friend came over for lunch. That was special enough for me. And I also thought it would go well with Waffles & Bacon! Bacon & bubbly is an easy pairing, as bubbly often goes well with salty dishes, from oysters to potato chips. And as for my waffle, smothered in butter, the crisp bubbly cut through the fat of the butter. It was simply a fun and tasty pairing, not a usual pairing, but experimenting with wine pairings is a worthy endeavor.

For my waffles and bacon, I chose a sparkling wine from Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards, a media sample I received. The roots of this winery extend back to the 16th century, to the Ferrer family which would eventually produce Sparkling Wine, creating the Freixenet Cava in 1915. During the early 1930s, Pedro Ferrer Bosch traveled to the U.S., desirous of producing Sparkling Wine there but had to return to Spain near the start of the Spanish Civil War. It would be up to his son, José Ferrer, and José's wife Gloria, to follow Pedro's dream.

In 1982, José and Gloria purchased 160 acres in the Carneros region of Sonoma County, planting about 75% of the land with Pinot Noir and the rest with Chardonnay. Four years later, they opened as Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards, being the first Sparkling Wine producer in the Carneros region. Since then, their holdings have grown to about 335 acres, and they produce a number of still wines as well. Sustainability is very important to them, and they were among the first wineries in California to implement the Code of Sustainable Winegrowing Practices.

The Gloria Ferrer 2010 Anniversary Cuvée ($40) was produced from a blend of 67% Pinot Noir and 33% Chardonnay, the grapes from their estate vineyards in Carneros. Only the first press of the grapes was used for this wine and it is also a blend of 14 separately fermented lots, all from the 2010 vintage. The 2010 vintage was one of the coolest on record, and produced excellent grapes with plenty of concentration and character. The lots were fermented about 6 months prior to that blending and then the blended wine remained in the bottle, on the lees, for another five and a half years before it was disgorged.

This Sparkling Wine presents an alluring aroma, enticing fruit flavors with a hint of vanilla, as well as tiny and persistent bubbles. On the palate, it is elegant and crisp, with a creamy mouthfeel and delicious tastes of pear, green apple, vanilla, and light spice notes. There are even subtle red fruit flavors flitting within your palate, especially on the lengthy and satisfying finish. Plenty of complexity, bright acidity, and pure hedonistic pleasure. And this Cuvée paired very well with the waffles and bacon, elevating that simple lunch. The Cuvée would pair well with many different dishes, from oysters to lobster, burgers to pizza. Highly recommended!

The next time you're planning a wine pairing for your lunch or dinner, consider a Sparkling Wine. And then consider the bubbly from Gloria Ferrer.

Rant: Boston-Area Restaurants, Embrace Sake

There is some good news for local Sake lovers. 

There are two new restaurants, owned by two skilled local chefs, which should hopefully open later this year and both will showcase Sake. Kamakura, owned by Chef Youji Iwakura, and Momi Nonmi, owned by Chef Chris Chung, will offer Japanese cuisine, the first more of a Kaiseki-style spot while the second more of an izakaya. Both restaurants won't merely have a few Sakes on their menu, but will celebrate a passion for Sake. Sake will be a focal point in their drinks program and that is compelling. I eagerly look forward to the opening of both restaurants.

There is some bad news for local Sake lovers. 

The problem is that Sake, in the Boston-area, is being largely confined to Asian restaurants, especially those offering Japanese cuisine. We need more non-Asian restaurants willing to embrace Sake, to showcase it in their drinks program, to pair it with their non-Asian cuisine. Currently, the Tasting Counter is the only local, non-Asian restaurant which has shown a true passion for Sake.  With your dinner, you have the option of 10 Sakes pairings with your multi-course meal. Why don't more non-Asian restaurants see the value in adding Sake to their menus?

First, let me correct any misconceptions you might have about Sake and food pairings. Sake is not just for Asian cuisine. In fact, it is extremely food friendly and there is a Sake that will pair with everything. Check out my article, The Science of Sake & Food Pairings, to understand many of the reasons why Sake works so well with various cuisines. You can also read some of my related, and more specific articles, on Sake pairings, including: Sake For Thanksgiving, Slurping Oysters & Sipping Sake, Pairing Sake & Cheese, and Sake, Seafood & Lobster Anywhere. I've done Sake pairing dinners at Italian and French restaurants, and at home, I've paired Sake with so many different foods. There isn't a Boston-area restaurant which wouldn't benefit from adding Sake.

Many restaurants want to be on the cutting edge of the drinks world, offering wine from hot new regions, local beer from new micro-distilleries, and intriguing new spirits. Well, Sake is on that cutting edge, with thousands of years of history behind it, but there are also plenty of new brewers embracing the future. With so few non-Asian restaurants showcasing Sake, it would be a great way to make your restaurant more unique.

One of the main obstacles to adding Sake to the menus at non-Asian restaurants is probably a lack of knowledge about Sake. That is simple to remedy, as all you need to do is educate yourself. There are Sake classes you can take or Sake consultants you can speak to. Sommeliers spend time learning about new wine regions, so why not just extend that education to Sake? Look at it as a new challenge to face, to learn more about this fascinating beverage, and see how well it pairs with a myriad of cuisines.

Boston-area restaurants, especially non-Asian ones, please embrace Sake!

2016: Favorite Wine-Related Items

What were some of my favorite wine related items of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2016. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, Top Ten Wines Over $15 and Top Wines Over $50 lists. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Wine-Related Items, which are not specific wine recommendations. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more wine related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Analysis Of Top Ten Wines: In my three prior Top Ten Wine lists, I mentioned a total of 42 wines, which included wines from 10 different countries. At the top was Spain, with 10 wines (which was in second place last year). Portugal and Italy (which was in first place last year) are tied for second place, with 7 wines. Nearly 60% of my top wines came from just these three countries. Greece and France are tied for third place with with 4 wines. The U.S. has 3 wines, 2 from California and 1 from New York. Georgia and Cyprus each had 2 wines on the lists while Argentina and Slovenia each has 1 wine. As for wine types, the list is also broken down into 5 Sparkling, 12 Whites, 4 Rosé, 13 Reds, 7 Fortified and 1 Dessert Wine. Thirteen of the wines were first tasted at the Boston Wine Expo, where I often find a significant number of intriguing wines.

Favorite Discount Wine Stores: Consumers always want bargains, excellent value wines which won't stretch their wallets. You can buy the cheap, mass-produced commercial wines which can be found in almost any wine store or instead, you can seek out excellent, value wines which put to shame those cheap wines. Certain discount wine stores provide not only excellent prices but also an interesting selection and good service. I want to highlight three such stores which continue to do an especially good job, places where I go to seek bargains: Bin Ends in Braintree & Needham, Wine Connextion in North Andover, and Rapid Liquors in Stoneham (which recently completed a major expansion). Shop at any of those stores and you won't be disappointed.

Favorite Wine Stores: This is a small list of wine stores which consistently impress me with their selection and service. Each shop is worthy of your patronage and wine lovers should make the effort to visit these places if you have not done so yet.
Lower Falls Wine Company in Newton Lower Falls
Wine-Sense in Andover
Wine Bottega in Boston's North End
Central Bottle Wine & Provisions in Cambridge
Wine Press in Brookline
Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose (where I also work part-time)
Streetcar Wines in Jamaica Plain

Favorite Wine Lunch/Dinner: Champagne pairs well with food, but some Champagnes do it better than others. The Champagnes of Besserat de Bellefon are specifically produced to accompany food and lunch at L'Espalier helped to show its excellence with food pairings. The lunch tasting was educational and delicious, fun and informative. Two of the Champagnes also ended up on my Top Ten Wine lists. The secret of its versatility with food is its smaller bubbles, which makes the Champagne taste creamier, more unctuous, and lighter.

Runner-Up Favorite Wine Lunch/Dinners: This category was a tie, between an Italian wine dinner and a Cypriot wine dinner. The Piedmontese Wine Dinner at Osteria Nino presented several killer wines, three which ended up on my Top Ten Wine lists, accompanied by dishes from Gnocchi al Castelmagno e Noci to Bollito di Manzo. A Cypriot Wine Dinner at Committee offered several compelling wines, two which ended up on my Top Ten Wine lists, wines which you rarely see at other restaurants. The tasty cuisine was Cypriot as well, from Eliopites to Koupes. Both wine dinners helped to show how regional wines and cuisines pair well with each other.

Favorite High-End Wine Lunch/Dinner: Argentina would be hard pressed to find a better advocate for their wines than Laura Catena. At a special lunch at Bistro du Midi, Laura Catena shared with us some of the top wines from Bodega Catena Zapata, wines from the famed Adrianna Vineyard. From the White Bones and White Stones Chardonnays to three incredible Malbecs, we learned about this vineyard and its various expressions. The lunch was informative and inspirational, and the wines were stunning. And the food, from Lamb Carpaccio to Flat Iron Steak Frites, was delicious, pairing well with the two Malbecs at the table. One of the Chardonnays from this lunch also ended up on one of my Top Ten Wine lists.

Favorite Regional Wine Tasting: This category was also a tie, between Franciacorta, an Italian Sparkling Wine, and Georgian wines (the country, not the state). At the Wine Bottega, Jeremy Parzen was Spreading Love For Franciacorta, showcasing 11 wines and helping to give attention to this compelling bubbly. Jeremy is an excellent ambassador for these wines and it made sure the tasting was educational and fun. At Puritan & Co., there was a significant tasting of Georgian wines, which led to my post, Drink More Georgian Wine! Georgian wines can be delicious and intriguing, and it was fascinating to explore more of their wines. And both of these tastings had wines that ended up on my Top Ten Wine lists this year.

Favorite Large-Scale Tasting: This year, this award goes to the Boston Wine Expo, a huge consumer wine event. Thirteen wines from this event ended up on my Top Ten Wine lists. It has its issues, primarily due to the large crowds that attend, but there are ways to maximize your wine exploration and enjoyment, from attending the Seminars to focusing your tasting on certain regions and/or wine styles. Early next month, I'll be posting my suggestions and advice for attending the Expo, which should help to improve your experience. Check here for tickets for the 2017 Boston Wine Expo,

Favorite Private Wine Tasting: My good friend Adam, of Wine Zag, hosts a monthly blind tasting event which is always fun and interesting. There haven't been many tastings this past year due to a number of circumstances but it remains my favorite private event. A group of 15-18 people are assembled, and we taste through about twelve wines, usually with some type of theme. From Champagne to Southern Italian reds, the themes range wide and the wines themselves range in price and style. The attendees include wine newcomers and more knowledgeable tasters, but there is a lack of pretension and the casual atmosphere is one of fun and discovery. This is the fifth year in a row this tasting has garnered this honor. The house has changed, allowing a more intimate event.

Favorite Wine Travel Event: This past June, I attended TasteCamp Vermont, exploring the food and drink or Vermont. TasteCamp is always one of my favorite events as a small group of wine writers get together to explore a wine region, though the event has expanded to include additional alcoholic beverages as well. Vermont is a compelling destination, with delicious and interesting drinks from Hard Cider to Maple Syrup Beverages. There are a number of excellent Distilleries, producing wonders such as Barrel-Aged Gin. And I actually have more to write about this experience so look forward to more info about the delights of Vermont.

Favorite Wine Rant: Is wine simply a luxury, relatively unimportant? In one of my rants, I tried to answer the question, Wine Is Just Fermented Grape Juice? In one respect, it is just fermented grape juice, but there are other levels involved as well. Wine can be important, a key to bringing people together, creating friendships, and prolonging those friendships. Take a look at my Rant and think about its contents. Maybe you will see wine through a different lens.

What were some of your favorite wine-related items this year?

Rant: Stressing Over Thanksgiving Wines

Every year countless people stress over which wines to pair with their Thanksgiving dinner. They read all the wine articles, which give recommendations of which wines you should drink, though many of those articles are similar year to year. They speak to the staff at their local wine store, who give them recommendations. These people also worry that their holiday might be a failure unless they have the correct wines. The holidays can be stressful enough without having to worry about the wine, especially when those worries are generally needless.

Cast your memory back to last year's Thanksgiving. Can you remember which specific wines you had with dinner? Can you remember the specific wines you had with Thanksgiving dinner two years ago?

I am sure that most people won't be able to remember except maybe in the most general terms. Maybe they recall having had a Pinot Noir or a Riesling. They are unlikely to recall the specific producer or much else about the wine. What they are more likely to remember is the good (at least hopefully it was good) time they had, the family and friends that shared their table. They might remember whether the food and wine was good or bad but the specifics may be foggy.

Do you really need specific Thanksgiving wine recommendations? I don't think so. The more I ponder the question, the more I realize that all you need for Thanksgiving are some good wines, the varietals and/or blends being much less important. As long as they do not blatantly clash with the meal, then they should work. And few wines are going to so blatantly clash. Drink wines you will enjoy and don't worry so much about "perfect pairings."

A Thanksgiving meal is diverse, with many different flavors, from savory to sweet, and many different textures. No single wine is a perfect pairing with all these different dishes. So you need wines that people will enjoy in of their own right. I don't think too many hosts are seeking the "perfect" wine pairing. They simply want something that people will enjoy and which won't greatly detract from the food.

Plus, who will remember the wines next year?

We must also remember that any wine shared with good friends and family is likely to taste better, or at least seem that way, than one drank alone. The circumstances of the day, the good feelings, the fond memories, the thanks for the past year, will all lead to your wine seeming better. And it is all those urrounding circumstances that people will most remember about Thanksgiving. The wine will always take the back seat.

The wine is simply an extra, not a necessity. It pales in importance to everything else about the holiday. Like the Whos from "The Grinch Who Stole Xmas", there should still be joy even if all of the food and wine have been taken away.

I will probably bring a variety of wines to my Thanksgiving feast, a mix of sparkling wine, white, red and dessert wine. In general, I will pick interesting and delicious wines that I feel people will enjoy. I won't spend much time worrying about pairing them with specific dishes and foods. I just want wines that will make people smile, that will enhance the spirit of the day.

And if you want some more general advice, check out my prior post: Holiday Wines--Don't Be A Cheapskate. And if you really want some more specific advice, and are willing to be adventurous, then check out Thanksgiving Wines? Consider Sherry Or Sake.

Whatever you do for Thanksgiving, enjoy yourself and appreciate all that you have, rather than worry about what you do not.

(This is a revised version of a post from 2009. My basic sentiment has not changed one iota since that time and I felt it was important enough to raise it again.)

A Taste Of Cyprus At Committee

“…When I rouse I feel either to massacre or to put out my thirst by drinking Cyprus wine…”
--Hesiod (Ancient Greek poet)

It is said to be the birthplace of Aphrodite, the goddess of love, beauty and pleasure, which is why she is sometimes referred to as the Lady of Cyprus. Maybe the most famous legendary resident of this island was Pygmalion. Ovid, an ancient Roman poet, detailed the legend of Pygmalion in a narrative poem, Metamorphoses. Pygmalion was a skilled sculptor who created an ivory statue of a beautiful woman and subsequently fell in love with the statue. After making offerings to Aphrodite, wishing for a live woman like his statue, he returned home, kissed the statue and it came to life. They married, eventually having a daughter, Paphos.

On the darker side, the waters surrounding this island are also said to have once been the lair of Scylla, a terrible sea monster which is alleged to have possessed a serpent's body, six canine heads, and twelve limbs. Scylla was supposed to have taken six sailors from the ship of Odysseus. The waters around this island, especially around Cape Greko, still supposedly are home to another sea monster, known as Ayia Napa. Some have described it as being similar to Scylla while other claim that it is half-crocodile and half-serpent. However, this sea monster is also called To Filiko Teras, the "friendly monster," as it is said not to harm fishermen or other residents.

These are but a few of the fascinating items to know about the island of Cyprus.

Cyprus is located in the Eastern Mediterranean, south of Turkey and east of Greece, and is the third largest island in this sea (after Sicily and Sardinia). Throughout its history, it has often been invaded and conquered, by a variety of empires and powers. It finally gained its independence in 1960 though that didn't last long as they were invaded by Turkey in 1974, and Turkey still controls part of the northern island, which they have declared to be the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus.

With the history of conflict and invasions, it's understandable that Cypriot cuisine has many influences, though much of it is related to Greek and Turkish cuisine. You will also find influences from Byzantine, Catalan, French, Italian, and Middle Eastern cuisines. Wine production on Cyprus extends back thousands of years, and a number of ancient Greeks felt that their wines were some of the best in the Mediterranean. However, Cypriot cuisine and wines haven't made much of an impact in the Boston area yet, but maybe that is starting to change.

Earlier this week, one of my favorite restaurants, Committee, began the fall season of their monthly wine dinners, which take place on the first Wednesday of each month, with a Cypriot Wine Dinner. Wine Director Lauren Friel, Consulting Chef Diane Kochilas, Sous Chef Luis Figueroa, and the rest of the Committee team put together a six-course dinner of Cypriot dishes, paired with Cypriot wines. I was invited to attend as a media guest, and as I have limited experience with Cypriot wines, mostly from the Lambouri Winery, I was intrigued to taste more wines from this fascinating island.

Wine production in Cyprus has a lengthy history, extending back at least over 4300 years and possibly even over 5500 years. At least one of their wines, a sweet wine now known as the Commandaria, has been famous for nearly 3000 years and is still produced today. In more modern times, their wine industry languished throughout much of the 20th century until the 1990s when there was a major push to modernize and improve the quality of their wines. So, despite its long history, in some respects it still is has a young wine industry.

In 2007, a new Appellation of Origin system was established in Cyprus, based on European Union law, and there are three categories including Table wine, Local wine, and O.E.O.Π. (their top designation). There are four designated Local areas allowed, including Lefkosia, Lemesos, Larnaca and Paphos, and 85% of the grapes for a Local wine must come from one of these regions. Wines with the O.E.O.Π. designation have a number of regulations and restrictions, including a minimum altitude for the vineyards, yield restrictions, ageing and more. There are about 120 indigenous grapes in Cyprus though only a small number are actively used in wine making. You'll also find a number of international grapes in their vineyards.

The wine dinner was held in a private room and there were sixteen guests, fourteen women and two men. During the course of the dinner, General Manager Demetri Tsolakis discussed the various dishes we enjoyed and Wine Director Lauren Friel explained about each wine. It was a fun and casual evening, with plenty of delicious food and wine. The attendees nearest me, a group of six women of Greek ancestry, all seemed to enjoy the evening very much, and had attended prior wine dinners there as well. I was impressed as well, gaining an appreciation for Cypriot cuisine and wine.

We began out gustatory pleasures with a dish of Salted Cod Roe Dip with preserved lemon strips and warm pita bread. Committee makes a number of tasty dips, from hummus to sun-dried tomato & feta, and this was delicious as well, with a creamy, briny taste of cod and hints of lemon.

Our initial drink, which was also paired with our first course, was a KEO Brandy Sour, the unofficial national cocktail of Cyprus. This cocktail was made with cardamon, saffron, preserved lemon and a little simple syrup. It was refreshing, with a mild sourness, bright citrus flavors and hints of the intriguing spices. And it worked well with our first course, a type of fresh salad.

The First Course was Glistrida, which is a Greek term for purslane, a leafy vegetable which grows wild in Greece thought it was once thought to decrease sexual desire. In Cyprus, purslane is commonly eaten, usually served raw, and it is quite nutritious, being one of the only plants that contain alpha linolenic acid, a type of omega-3 fatty acid normally found in fish. It also has lots of vitamin C, some vitamin B, magnesium, calcium, potassium and iron. We all should be eating more purslane.

The Glistrida was accompanied by some cucumber slices, cherry tomatoes, grilled Halloumi cheese and covered by a lemon-honey vinaigrette. Halloumi, a goat and sheep's milk cheese, is also known as "squeaky cheese" and is the national cheese of Cyprus. It is a semi-hard, white-brined cheese with an elastic texture, and it is common to serve it grilled or fried. This salad was fresh and bright, enhanced by the saltiness of the grilled Halloumi. A nice, light dish and a good way to start our multi-course dinner.

The Second Course was Eliopites, Cypriot olive pies, which consisted of film dough filled with black olives and lemon. They possessed an interesting briny taste, enhanced by the lemon, with the light and crisp filo. In some respects, the flavors reminded me of East Coast oysters, calling forth the taste of the sea. Even if you don't usually enjoy black olives, these eliopites will satisfy.

This course was paired with the 2015 Tsiakkas Xinisteri from the Tsiakkas Winery, which was established in 1988 in the town of Pelendri, though the family history of wine making extends back much further. It is a small winery, producing only about 150,000 bottles each year, and exports to a number of countries, including the U.S., Belgium, Germany, Netherlands and Switzerland. They source grapes from their own 5 hectares of vineyards and also purchase grapes from other trusted vineyards. Though they currently use some international grapes, they are moving more towards using only indigenous varieties, such as Xinisteri.   

Xinisteri is a vigorous and productive grape, with thick skin, and is the most common white grape on Cyprus, accounting for almost 25% of all vineyard area. It tends to produce fresh, light wines with lots of citrus flavor, though if the grapes are sourced from high altitude vineyards, the wines have more mineral notes and tend to be more vibrant.

The 2015 Tsiakkas Xinisteri ($15-$20 retail) is made from grapes in the High Pitsilia region, at an altitude of over 1300 meters, and the vines average about 50 years old. With a 12.5% ABV, the wine was fermented in stainless steel and sees no oak. Possessing a light golden color, it possesses a pleasant aroma of apples and citrus. On the palate, it is crisp and dry, with lush apple and peach flavors, enhanced by some minerality. Easy drinking, it would be excellent with seafood, such oysters, and worked well with the briny olive pies.  

We moved onto the Third Course, a dish of Koupes (plural of koupa), a type of Cypriot street food that is sometimes called a "meat donut." It is also known as kibbeh in the Middle East. This koupes, rather than the usual beef, was made with shrimp and crab meat, encased in a crusty bulgur and topped by a Commandaria wine salsa. Pourgouri, the Cypriot name for bulgur, is their traditional carbohydrate other than bread. This tasty dish had a crunchy coating with a pleasant seafood taste, from the sweet crab to the firm shrimp, enhanced by the lightly sweet salsa. Each dish seems to get better and better.

This was paired with the 2015 Oenops Wines APLA Rosé, a blend of 60% Xinomavro and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is part of a new endeavor by wine maker, Nikos Karatzas, and though the wine is produced in Greece, Nikos is a Cypriot. "APLA" means "simply" or "naturally" and this is the first vintage of the new endeavor. Nikos currently purchases all of his grapes as he doesn't own any vineyards. Pale pink in color, it has a subtle aroma of red fruits with a mild hint of herbal notes. On the palate, it is crisp and dry, with pleasing strawberry and cherry flavors, enhanced by some subtle herbal elements. This is a style of Rosé that appeals to me so I was very satisfied with it. Committee is the only place in Massachusetts where you can find the APLA wines.

We moved onto the Fourth Course, Afelia, basically pork tenderloin braised in red wine with coriander seeds atop a chickpea hummus. Traditionally, this pork dish is cooked in an earthenware dish, called a tava, in a clay oven. My knife slid easily through the tender, juicy and flavorful pork, which also possessed a nice spicy flavor and some well caramelized and crunchy exterior bits. The creamy hummus was delicious too, and I slathered it onto some warm pita slices. An excellent dish which I would order again if it were on the menu.

This dish was paired with the 2013 Tsiakkas Vamvakada ($25-$30 retail), made from 100% Vamvakada, which is also known as Maratheftiko. About 15% of the grapes are from old vines, over 80 years old. This is another indigenous grape, dark-skinned and late ripening, which grows primarily in the mountainous region of Páfos as well as in Pitsilia. However, it still is only planted on a relatively small number of acres though that is changing. And it is still rare to find this bottled as a single varietal.

This wine has a 13% ABV, underwent malolactic fermentation and then was aged, for about nine months, in 85% new French oak and 15% American oak. With a dark purple, opaque color, its subtle aromas were enticing and appealing, beckoning for you to taste it. And on the palate, I found a complex and compelling wine, with plenty of juicy ripe plum and black berry flavors, with hints of blueberries. It possessed low tannins, spicy elements and a mild herbal note, especially on the lengthy finish. So much going on in this wine, and each sip seemed to bring something new to me. It went great with the pork and I could see this wine going well with everything from burgers to a Bolognese sauce. Highly recommended.

The Fifth Course was a dish of Kleftiko, slow-cooked oven-baked lamb and served with patties antinahtes (which means "tossed potatoes"), potatoes baked in white wine with coriander seeds. The scrumptious and tender lamb fell off the bone, and had such a succulent taste. I love lamb and this was an excellent example of a perfectly cooked piece of lamb. I even ate the marrow from the bone, sucking some of it directly out of the bone. The potatoes were tasty too, well soaked with the wine, adding plenty of flavor.

With the lamb, we enjoyed the 2013 Argyos Mavrotragano (about $50 retail), a wine from Santorini. The winery was established back in 1903 and they now own about 65 acres of vineyards. The wine is made from 100% Mavrotragano, an ancient, rare and indigenous grape, and is aged for about two years in French oak. This was another very dark purple colored wine, with a richer aroma of ripe plum and dark spices. On the palate, it has more moderate tannins, good acidity, and more muscular flavors, black fruits, rich spice, vanilla and a touch of tobacco. It is a wine that needs a strong food, like lamb or a thick steak, and this dish was a fine pairing.

The final course, Dessert, was Tahini-Phyllo Rolls, which had a light, flaky with a heavier, creamy sesame seed-flavored filling. With this dessert, we had a glass of the St. John Commandaria, a famous Cypriot dessert wine.

Commandaria is produced in the Commandaria region on the foothills of the Troödos Mountains. It is made from sun-dried Xynisteri and Mavro grapes, and is commonly fortified. It's history extends back about 3000 years and is the oldest named wine still in production.

One of its most famous historical references was during the wedding ceremony of King Richard the Lionheart in the 12th century. The King declared Commandaria to be "the wine of kings and the king of wines." Later in that century, the wine acquired its name from the Knights Templar, who controlled a region known as the Commandaria, where Commandaria referred to a military headquarters. The Knights produced much of this dessert wine, exporting it all across Europe, and the wine soon took on the name of the region.

Currently Commandaria holds a protected designation of origin (PDO) within the European Union, the United States and Canada. By Cypriot legislation, enacted in 1990, it can only produced in a collection of 14 neighbouring villages: Agios Georgios, Agios Konstantinos, Agios Mamas, Agios Pavlos, Apsiou, Gerasa, Doros, Zoopigi, Kalo Chorio, Kapilio, Laneia, Louvaras, Monagri and Silikou. The designated area has assumed the name of the Commandaria Region and is located on the south facing slopes of the Troödos Mountains. Commandaria, by law is aged for at least two years in oak barrels. Commandaria may be a fortified wine, but fortification is not mandatory.

Some raise a glass of Commandaria and toast to Aphrodite, as this wine is said to be one of her preferred offerings.

The St. John Commandaria tis produced from a blend of different vintages, using a Solera system like Sherry.  The amber-colored wine was sweet, though with plenty of acidity to balance it so it wasn't cloying. The flavor was complex with notes of caramel, dried fruit, honey and nuts. A very satisfying after-dinner drink, which could be sipped on its own or paired with dessert. I think it would be a killer combination with blue cheese.

Overall, this was an impressive evening with so many delicious dishes of Cypriot-nspired food and plenty of compelling wines. The pork tenderloin and the lamb are essentially tied for my favorite dishes of the evening. The Tsiakkas Winery provided my favorite wines of the night, especially the Vamvakada. Demetri and Lauren were fine hosts, helping to make sure everyone had an enjoyable time. I continue to highly recommend Committee, for lunch, dinner, brunch or any of their monthly wine dinners.