Fiano is an indigenous Italian grape that might extend back to the time of ancient Rome. It has been theorized, without definitive evidence, that Fiano might be the same grape written about by Pliny the Elder and Columella, referred to as Vitis apianes ("Vine of the bees"). Besides its potentially ancient origins, Fiano also produces delicious and interesting white wines.
If you want to learn more about Fiano, then I strongly recommend you visit Asta, a tasting menu restaurant located at 47 Massachusetts Ave. in Boston. Theresa Paopao, Asta's sommelier, has recently started a Wine School, an afternoon wine lounge inspired by New York Times wine critic Eric Asimov’s monthly column. Asta's Wine School is in session from Tuesday to Friday, from 4pm-7pm. Recently, my good friend Adam Japko and I stopped by Asta to check out the new Wine School and we both were equally impressed.
Back on April 26, Asimov's Wine School post dealt with Fiano, so this month, Theresa is highlighting that grape. Theresa has selected seven Fiano wines, from the Campania region of Italy, to showcase, six single-varietal and one blend. All of the wines are offered by the glass, though you can also order a horizontal or vertical flight of three wines. I'd suggest you try the flights, as comparison tastings are an excellent way to better understand the various expressions of a grape. Not all Fiano wines are the same.
This Wine School is completely causal and informal, and Theresa will provide you as much, or as little, information as you desire about Fiano and the wines. Theresa is very knowledgeable and personable, and is a fine host for wine school. Her own passion for wine can be infectious and you won't regret stopping by to taste some wines.
In addition, Wine School offers a small list of à la carte dishes which have been specifically created to pair well with your wine. We ordered a few of the dishes and they were delicious, the usual high quality we expect from Asta. The Whipped Salt Cod, atop toast, is a relatively simple dish, but was well executed and addictive. Creamy and salty, with that touch of the sea, it did pair very well with the various Fiano wines. And it is something I'd love to replicate at home. The Pickled Mussels were another relatively simple dish, beautifully executed, and absolutely tasty. The Octopus, atop a Johnnycake, was cooked perfectly, being tender and flavorful. Fiano and seafood is an excellent combination!
Fiano is primarily grown in the Campania region of southern Italy and on the island of Sicily.
In 2003, the area around Avellino in Campania received DOCG status. Fiano di Avellino DOCG wines must contain at least 85% Fiano, and the rest may include Coda di Volpe, Greco, and Trebbiano. Fiano, which produces low yields in the vineyard, faced possible extinction in the later half of the 20th century, but a small group of producers chose to save it, planting more vineyards, especially in the Avellino region. Fiano wines are commonly said to possess intense aromas and strong flavors, and can age well.
Adam and I decided to taste all seven Fiano wines, both flights and the single blend. The horizontal flight ($17/three 2 oz pours), included three wines, all from the same vintage but from different producers. The wines included the 2016 Terradora di Paolo, DOCG Fiano di Avellino ($15/glass), 2016 Vadiaperti DOCG Fiano di Avellino ($12/glass), and 2016 Case d'Alto DOCG Fiano di Avellino ($14/glass). All of these wines saw only stainless steel, and possessed crisp acidity, mineral elements, bright citrus flavors, and honey notes. Yet each possessed its own individuality as well and your favorite will be based on your personal preferences.
My favorite of the three (though I enjoyed all of them) was the Vadiaperti, as besides being simply delicious, it possessed an intriguing complexity, with notes of honey, pear, apple and lemon, bright acidity, mineral elements, and salted nuts. I could easily enjoy this wine on its own, though it went well with the seafood as well.
The vertical flight ($17/three 2 oz pours), included three wines, all from the same producer but from different vintages. The wines included the 2014, 2015 and 2016 vintages of the Casebianche Cumale DOP Fiano Cilento. The Fiano grapes for these wines is from 10-20 year old vines, and the wine sees only stainless steel and then a couple months of bottle aging. In general, these wines all presented with crisp acidity, mineral elements, hints of brininess, bright citrus flavors, and some herbal notes. The 2016 vintage was obviously the freshest and most bright, with the two other vintages starting to get more savory and less fruit notes. I preferred the 2014 vintage, enjoying its more savory aspect, with an almost umami element.
The final wine of the evening, which Theresa referred to as a "Super Fiano," was the 2015 Sangiovanni Paestum, IGT Italy ($7/2 oz taste or $18/glass), a blend of 85% Fiano, 10% Trebbiano, and 5% Greco. The wine spent about 8 months aging in stainless steel. I was enamored with this wine, finding it to be complex and intriguing, delicious and compelling. So much going on in the glass, with notes of honey and citrus, saltiness and bright acidity, minerality and herbs. It possessed some similarities to the other Fiano wines, but had its own uniqueness as well. It paired well with all of the seafood, though I could easily sit outside and sip this on its own.
Theresa did a great job of selecting wines for her Fiano Wine School and you can still taste the wines tonight or next week at Asta. Next month, Theresa will follow the theme of Asimov's next Wine School article, so look forward to see which region, grape or style gets chosen. Asta's new Wine School is a great way to casually taste and learn about some new wines, while enjoying some delectable small plates, paired with the wines.
Two weeks from today will be Labor Day, which many see as the end of summer although autumn won't officially arrive for a few weeks more.
Besides the change in the seasons, Labor Day is also the unofficial start of wine tasting season. From September to December, most wine stores will hold large-scale wine events, some where you can taste more than fifty wines. Even better is that most of those events will be free, or they will charge only a nominal fee. This is your opportunity to taste many dozens of wines, and you should seize the chance to do so. As I've mentioned many times before, the best way to learn about wine is to taste it, and taste even more.
The best way to learn through tasting is to expand your palate, to taste plenty of unfamiliar wines, to experience different grapes and to sample wines from new regions. You could easily attend these events and drink only wines you know but why do that? It won't teach you anything. It won't provide you a new experience. You learn something from what is new. And what you learn might also bring you much joy.
Sure, you probably won't like everything new you taste but that shouldn't be an issue. You are only sampling the wines, taking a sip or two, and it is probably for free. If you dislike a wine, if might help you understand what wines you will enjoy. And amidst all that tasting, you'll probably find a number of other wines that you do like, and may even find a new favorite. Take the risk, expand your palate and taste as many different wines as you can.
And a little more advice. When you attend these tastings, take some notes so you remember which wines you liked. Don't rely on your memory alone because after tasting a couple dizen wines, you probably won't remember your favorite wine the day after. At the very least, use your smart phone to take a photo of the label. That is the easiest way to remember the wines that impressed you.
You'll thank me later for helping you expand your palate.
"Of all the places where men have planted vineyards the upper Douro is the most improbable."
--Hugh Johnson
At the recent Boston Wine Expo, they offered 35 Seminars, mostly about wine but also a few dealing with topics like whiskey and olive oil. The Seminars are an excellent way to get a more directed wine education at the Expo, and you usually get to taste some compelling wines. This year, as a media guest, I attended one of the seminars, The Wines of the Douro Valley: From Dream to Reality: An Adventure in the Oldest Demarcated Region of the World.
The description of this seminar stated: "Since 1780, the family has been intimately entwined in the region's wine trade. When Cristiano Van Zeller left Quinta do Noval at the end of 1993 it was to pursue his passion for innovation and the development of independent producers in the Douro valley. His goal was to diminish the region's dependence on the production of port, while showing the true potential and diversity of this incredible land. In 1996 he acquired the ancient Quinta Vale D. Maria and immediately went to work restoring this venerable estate. Within two years the estate was receiving critical acclaim for their Douro Red Wine. As of 2006, he took over the reins of the centuries old family business, Van Zeller & Co. Please join Cristiano in tasting through the last decade of Red wines and Ports from Quinta Vale D. Maria along with the rare opportunity to experience two tawny ports bottled 100 years apart: 1970 versus 1870. When did you drink your last 1870?"
You don't often get a chance to taste a Port from 1870 and as a Cavaleiro in the Confraria do Vinho do Porto, I felt it was my duty to investigate and taste. When I entered the room for the seminar, there was a strong and alluring aroma from the intensity of the Tawny Ports. It made you want to start drinking right away, but I had restraint.
The speaker for the seminar was Cristiano Van Zeller, the Chairman of the Federation of Douro Farmers and the Owner of Quinta Vale D. Maria, and he was accompanied by his daughter, Francisca. Christiano was an excellent presenter, knowledgeable, humorous and personable.
The Van Zeller family can trace its history in the wine trade back to 1620, and in 1780 they became officially established as a Port Wine shipper. Cristiano is a 14th generation Van Zeller and he began his wine career working at the family Port company, Quinta do Noval. In 1993, the family sold the Port company and Cristiano moved onto some independent projects. The family of Cristiano's wife, Joana Lemos, had owned a Port estate for about 150 years and in 1996, Cristiano and Joana purchased the estate, Quinta Vale D. Maria, from her family. They had to rebuild the estate, which had fallen into a state of disrepair.
Cristiano began his presentation with some basic information about the Douro region, which he states is a "special place" in northeast Portugal. The Douro is protected from the sea and possesses lots of biodiversity. Grape growing began in the western section, the Baixo Corgo, first and then proceeded east, to the Cima Corgo and finally the Douro Superior. The Douro Superior, which is located near the Spanish border, is tougher to reach as the river isn't as easily navigable and less than 20% of the vineyards in the Douro are located in this region. The Douro region has harsh winters (though not as harsh as Boston) and hot summers. The soil is mainly schist, a slate-like metamorphic rock, that is rich in nutrients and possesses good water retention abilities. 2011 is supposed to have been the greatest vintage in the 21st century.
Quinta Vale D. Maria, which began with about 19 hectares, now encompasses approximately 31 hectares of vineyards, having purchased a few additional vineyards since 1996. In 2003, they bought the CV-Curriculum Vitae vineyard, which includes 6 hectares of vines (with an average age of 80 years) and olive trees, and grow about 20 different grape varieties. In 2004, as a gift to his Francisca for her 18th birthday, they purchased the Vinha da Francisca, about five hectares of 10 year old vines, growing five grapes, Touriga Nacional, Touriga France, Tinta Francisca, Sousao and Rufete. Finally, they acquired the Vinha do Rio, a vineyard that is the closest and lowest to the River Torto that runs through the estate. It encompasses only 2 hectares, growing about 20 grapes with an average age of 100 years.
They engage in organic viticulture, use horse plows and hand harvest all of their grapes. Grape selection is very important to them and they use a second selection on the selecting table. All of their red grapes are first foot-trodden in lagares, and for some the treading is then carried on by robots for another four hours. For their Ports and Single Quinta Douro DOC red wines, full fermentation occurs in the lagares. These wines are true labors of love. They still purchase some grapes though they make a number of single vineyard wines too.
Personally, Cristiano loves the diversity of wine, stating he would "hate to drink the same wine all the time" and that even the "same pleasure all the time gets routine." That is certainly a sentiment I fully support and have often encouraged people to be adventurous, expand their palate and taste all of the vast diversity in the wine industry. Cristiano also mentioned that he is under "no pressure to conform to public trends/tastes." He just tries to produce the best wines he can each year. To Cristiano, "Greatness of wine is how it is perceived at the moment and how it makes you feel." That is probably one of the best definitions of "greatness" in wine I've seen.
We began our tasting with four vintages of the Quinta Vale d. Maria Douro Red, a wine made from a field blend of 40 indigenous grapes, vines averaging about 60 years. Cristiano seeks a balance for the grapes, which is a challenge as each year the grapes are different. This wine is usually aged for 20-22 months in 65%-75% new French oak. The wine has an excellent aging potential, at least twenty years, and it could age longer but they don't have sufficient experience with a longer period. The wine sells for about $70 retail, and is locally distributed by M.S. Walker.
The four vintages we tasted included 2006, 2009, 2011, & 2013, and Cristiano commented that 2006 & 2013 were cooler years. As a general observation, all of these wines, including the oldest, seemed relatively fresh, with lots of life in them. They were all complex and intriguing, with notes of black cherry, blackberry, ripe plum, a hint of eucalyptus, and a strong, spicy backbone. The tannins were restrained though the 2009 and 2013 were more muscular wines. All of these wines would probably be best paired with food, especially beef, wild boar, game meats or other hearty dishes. The 2006 was the clear winner of the four, being more elegant and throughly impressive, the type of "wow" wine which will make you savor each compelling sip.
We then moved onto four Vintage Ports, from 2003, 2007, 2009, & 2014. These Ports are made from a field blend of more than 25 indigenous grapes, from vines aged 25-60 years old. The wines are aged in ancient (more than 100 years old) oak and chestnut wood Port casks, as well as small stainless steel vats, for about 18 months. You should decant these Ports for at least a day before, though the older the vintage, the less you need to decant. Cristiano stated that the 2003 & 2007 vintages should age the longest.
All four of these Ports were excellent, delicious and complex. They too possessed a nice freshness to them, with plenty of primary fruit flavors, both red and black fruits, from cherry to plum. The colors of these ports was rich and dark, each with alluring aromas which will seduce you into sampling them. The 2014 and 2007 were the more powerful of the four, though certainly not overwhelming so, and they also seemed less sweet than the other two vintages. Each vintage had its own unique character so it was fascinating to compare the different vintages. My favorite of the group was the 2007, which was so complex and well balanced, and each sip brought something new to my palate. However, you wouldn't go wrong with any of these Ports.
Finally, we tasted Ports from 1970 and 1870, though neither of these was ever registered as a single vintage wines and will never be sold as such. These are Colheitas, made in a single year and aged for at least seven years in the barrel, though they can often spend much longer in the barrel. Cristiano noted that you should chill old Ports like a white wine. Interestingly, the darker colored of these two Ports was the older, the 1870. Though Ports lose their color over time, there comes a point when that changes, and they actually get darker.
The 1970 Port still had a freshness to it, and was full bodied, with a mild sweetness, plenty of complexity and a lengthy finish. There were interesting flavors of caramel, dried fruit and cedar, with mild herbal accents. As for the 1870 Port, it had a bit of a musty aroma that began to dissipate with time. It was more savory than sweet, still with plenty of complexity and a lingering finish. There were more dried fruit and spice flavors, with notes of herbs, caramel and salted nuts. A fascinating Port which is still very much alive despite it being nearly 150 years old. It was a true pleasure to get to taste this Port and mere words cannot do justice to it.
Let me end on a note of beauty. Francisca wants to be a writer, mentioning that "Port is the greatest poetry in wine." Certainly an intriguing thought. She also put together a compelling short video about the winery, Quinta Vale D. Maria - Unique Vines and Music, which you should watch above. The video shows the fine beauty of the estate as well as Francisca's poetic language. There is nothing more for me to say.
"God, you see, was divvying up the land to the people of the world, but the Georgians were too busy feasting to show up to get their cut. When they finally showed up, presumably well fed and having had copious amounts of wine and in tremendously good spirits, they explained their situation with such heartfelt innocence and passion that God realized their sincerity and their enthusiasm for the culture of food and wine, so he gave them the piece he was reserving for himself: Georgia."
--For the Love of Wine: My Odyssey through the World's Most Ancient Wine Culture by Alice Feiring
The country of Georgia, located in the Southern Caucasus, is claimed to be the birthplace of wine, extending back to at least 6000 BCE. Besides this achievement, Georgia may also be the location of the oldest winemaking school in the world, the Ikalto Academy. Although that Academy no longer exists, its memory is being honored through the creation of a new Academy, dedicated to Georgian wine and winemaking, which may have opened in Ikalto last fall.
Let’s explore the origins and history of the Ikalto Academy and then look to the future of the new academy.
During the 6th century, Ioane Zedazneli, a Christian missionary, lived in the city of Edessa (also known as Urhai), which was an important center for early Christianity and which was very significant for the Syrian Church. Ioane allegedly had a vision of the Virgin Mary which requested he select twelve disciples and travel to Georgia to spread Christianity. Following this vision, he assembled a group of other monastic missionaries who became known as the Thirteen Assyrian (or Syrian) Fathers.
All of them came from the Mesopotamian region and it is unclear whether they were from Assyria or Syria. Contributing to the confusion is that the ancient Greeks, who created the term “Syria,” applied it to Assyrians as well as other peoples in that region. However, the place of their origin isn’t especially relevant to the point of this tale.
The Thirteen Fathers include: Ioane Zedazneli, Davit Garejeli, Abibos Nekreseli, Shio Mgvimeli, Ioseb Alaverdeli, Anton Martkopeli, Tadeoz Stepantsmindeli, Piros Breteli, Iese Tsilkneli, Stepane Khirseli, Isidore Samtavneli, Mikael Ulumboeli, and Zenon Ikaltoeli. While in Georgia, these men established numerous churches, monasteries, and hermitages. As I’ve written previously, Christianity came early to Georgia, with King Mirian III, in 337 A.D. declaring it to be the state religion. However, there were still plenty of Georgians who had not yet embraced Christianity.
One of these Thirteen Fathers was Zenon Ikaltoeli, also known as Saint Zenon, who founded a monastic complex in the village of Ikalto, which is located about six miles from the town of Telavi in the Kakheti region. Over the centuries, new churches have arisen on this site, largely replacing the original church, where Zenon was buried. Today, there are three main churches on the grounds. The main church is Khvtaeba (Holy Spirit), which was built upon an older church, and the two others include Sameba (Church of the Trinity), and Kvelatsminda (Absolutely Holy).
During the early 12th century, an Academy was established at Ikalto by Arsen of Ikalto, a scholar, philosopher, translater, researcher, hymnographer, and defender of the Georgian Christian Faith. Arsen (later known as Saint Arsen) was the son of Kakhetian nobleman Ibad Vachnadze (also a learned man) and Arsen once also worked as the tutor for the renowned King David IV the Restorer (or Builder).
Arsen desired to create a high school and academy, and it quickly became an important educational and cultural center within Kakheti. Some of its more scholarly courses included theology, rhetoric, astronomy, philosophy, geography, geometry, and liturgical chanting. In addition, the academy offered course in more practical skills, including pottery making, metal work, pharmacology, viticulture and wine making. This might make it the oldest winemaking school in the world. One of the most famous students of the academy was the 12th century Georgian poet Shosta Rustaveli.
For the next approximately 500 years, the Academy was a significant element within the Georgian community, and it seems very likely it played a substantive role in promoting winemaking throughout the country. I haven't yet found more detailed information on the operation and influence of the Academy though I'm continuing to research the matter. Unfortunately, in 1616, the Academy was destroyed when Persian invaders, led by Shah Abbas I, set fire to it, and the Academy wasn’t rebuilt.
However, within the last few years, a major project has begun to create a new academy in Ikalto, the Qvevri School & Academy. The academy will teach about winemaking, qvveri creation and use, and similar topics, and may even offer classes in foreign languages. In addition, the academy will serve as a wine research facility. There appears to be some confusion as to whether the academy is already open or not. The National Wine Agency indicates the academy opened in September 2016 while Decanter claims the academy won’t open until mid-2017. Maybe part of the academy has already opened but certain elements won't open until later this year.
As the Georgian wine industry has often reached into its historic past, it is great to see them attempting to resurrect the oldest winemaking school in the world. The academy will help to preserve the past, especially how to create qvevri, and is a major step toward a positive future for the Georgian wine industry.
A fascinating Spanish wine that was a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and old vine Palomino. An intriguing Georgian Rkatsiteli wine fermented in a traditional qvevri. A Sparkling Ribolla Gialla wine from Slovenia. Killer value Portuguese wines under $10. And I found even more delicious and interesting wines at this past weekend's Boston Wine Expo.
The 25th Anniversary of the Boston Wine Expowas held on February 13 & 14 at the Seaport Hotel & World Trade Center. Presented by the Boston Guild of Oenophilists, the Expo gathered together thousands of wine lovers, producers, importers, distributors and others. As a media guest, I attended both days of the Expo, seeking out new wines, enhancing my wine education, and hanging with friends. Overall, it was a fruitful weekend as I discovered plenty of interesting wines and had lots of fun.
I spent most of my time in the Grand Tasting, which featured over 200 producers and about 1800 wines, though I also checked out the Vintners' Reserve Lounge. At the Expo, I got to see some wine loving friends, including Doug, Todd, Chanie, Brett, and William, and told them about some of my favorite wines. Though I enjoy discovering new wines, I also get much enjoyment from sharing those discoveries with others. And it is even better when your friends also find joy in the wines you recommended. In the next couple weeks, I'll be sharing those finds with my readers too.
Once again, the Grand Tasting offered some intriguing diversity in some respects, but failed in certain areas. On the positive side, you could find wines from lesser known wine countries including Moldava, Lebanon, Israel, Georgia, Romania, Slovenia, and Uruguay.California, France, Italy, Spain, and Portugal were well represented. However, some countries and regions had very limited or no representation, including South Africa and Alsace. There were only two Sake producers represented and I would have liked to see more representation, especially from some of the smaller Sake breweries. I also would have liked to see more Spanish Sherry, Ports from Portugal, and Italian Franciacorta.
I understand some of the reasons for the lack of diversity in some areas. It isn't cheap to have a table at the Expo and not all producers, especially the smaller ones, believe they receive a sufficient economic benefit for the cost. Maybe the Expo organizers could try to address this matter by providing reduced pricing for small wineries, maybe based on production levels. In addition, maybe Expo organizers could also be more proactive in trying to bring more exhibitor diversity to the event by actively seeking out producers in regions which have been under-represented in the past.
During the trade hours, from 11am-1pm, I got plenty of work done, tasting a variety of wines, learning about those wines from the producers, distributors and importers, and taking notes. It is a quiet time then, with fewer people around, so you have a greater opportunity to taste and chat. When the Public hours began, at 1pm, it is tougher, especially on Saturday, when the crowds fill the great hall. You often have to wait in line to reach a specific table, and the producers, distributors and importers have less time to speak with each person who comes to their table.
This is probably the main complaint about the Expo, is that it gets too crowded, and that complaint has some validity. Of the two days, Saturday was definitely the more crowded of the two, which is usually the way it is each year. They have tried to separate the tables more, to create larger aisles, to alleviate some of the crowding. In some respects, that has helped, but certain spots still get too crowded so that it is tough to even make your way down the aisle. This is an issue at all major wine event where thousands of people attend.
Besides all the wine available at the Expo, there are a number of food exhibitors, many offering free samples of their products. As I've often repeated, at such a large wine event it's beneficial to have plenty of food samples to help absorb the alcohol and cleanse the palate. I have also recommended before that attendees should try to pair some of these food samples with the wines they taste. For example, I paired some chocolate with a Licor de Tannat, an Uruguayan wine similar to a Port. Did you try any food and wine pairings at the Expo?
I'm going to highlight some of the favorite food and non-wine finds from the Expo, and would like to hear about your own favorites too.
McCrea's Candiesmakes a variety of delicious caramels and I've been enjoying their caramels since 2012. They are a local company and have been regularly exhibiting at the Expo. This year, they were involved in my favorite food & wine pairing of the Expo. I enjoyed their Black Lava Sea Salt Caramel with the Bodegas Hidalgo-La Gitana Alameda Cream Sherry. The sweet and salty caramel went well with the complex flavors of the Sherry, including its nutty, briny and caramel notes. A magical combination.
Bella Bella Gourmet Foods, located in Connecticut, represent a group of farms in Sullivan County, New York which raise heirloom poultry, game birds and other meats such as rabbit. They also produce foie gras and foie-related products. At the Expo, they were sampling a number of duck products, from duck bacon to duck prosciutto, and including a duck quesadilla. It was all delicious and near-addictive. They are high quality products, with plenty of flavor, and worth checking out.
Fortuna's Sausage Co.has been producing sausage and other meats for over 100 years. The current third-generation owner is Patti Fortuna-Standard, whose grandparents came to the U.S. from Calabria, Italy. They brought their recipes with them, and they still form the basis of the company. Their products are only available online and at some trade shows. They sell a variety of salumi, all natural and nitrate free, from Pepperoni to Salami, many priced about $16-$20 for a 9-10 ounce stick.
At the Expo, they offered samples of maybe seven or eight of their products and all of them were tasty, with a nice blend of spices and meat. The Pepperoni were excellent as was the Soupy, which is also known as Supri, Suppi, and Calabrese salami. They have five varieties of Soupy, including Sweet, Mild, Hot, Extra Hot and Nuclear Hot. The Hot Soupy, with a meaty, savory taste, alsohad a spicy kick on the finish, a slow growing burn in your mouth. I tried the Nuclear Hot as well, and it certainly left a fiery burn in your mouth, deserving of its label, but again it was something that slowly built over time in your mouth until it became an inferno. I know some people who will love it!
Mamadou's Artisan Bakery, located at 63 Swanton Street in Winchester, is one of my favorite bread bakeries. They were selling some of their delicious breads at the Expo and I picked up a baguette. It was good to walk around the tasting, being able to snack on some crusty bread in between sips. If you haven't stopped by their bakery, I highly recommend you do so.
In the Vintner's Reserve Lounge, Chef Ming Tsai offered one of the best dishes of the Expo, Red Roast Duck Tostadas with a spicy pineapple salsa and avocado puree (though I had mine without the avocado). The duck was tender and flavorful, with a nice blend of spices, and the salsa added a mildly spicy kick. The tortilla chip made a nice vehicle for the duck and I enjoyed several of these tostadas as I sampled several wines. It went especially well with both a Provence Rosé and a Spanish Mencia.
Chef Brendan Pelley, formerly ofZebra's Bistro, has launched a new project, a Greek inspired pop-up called Pellekasis. It is located in Wink & Nodand will be around for maybe another six months or so. Chef Pelley is hoping that it might lead to a future brick and mortar restaurant. I like that Chef Pelley is presenting Greek cuisine, but with some new techniques and ingredients, bringing a fresh approach. At the Expo, Chef Pelley conducted a Chef Demo, creating Wild Boar Keftedes, meatballs, his own spin on a Greek classic. He adds a bit of an Asian flair, using soy sauce and panko in his recipe. The meatballs were moist and flavorful, and I love that he used wild boar. I need to check out Pellekasissoon.
Jonathan Potash, the Cocktail Guru, is pictured above with Kirsten "Kitty" Amann, both very well known in the Boston cocktail scene. They presented two different wine cocktails, The Wiseguy and the Santa Vino. Both were intriguing cocktails, well balanced and tasty, though my favorite was The Wiseguy as I liked its smoky edge accompanying the yuzu and banana flavors. These cocktails were a nice addition to the Expo.
During the next couple weeks, I'll be posting reviews of the wines I most enjoyed at the Expo. Stay tuned..
Next weekend, the Boston Wine Expo is coming to town and you might be planning on attending this huge wine event. If you attend the Grand Tasting, you'll be confronted with over 1800 wines, an overwhelming amount of wine. As you can only sample a tiny fraction of those wines, which should you choose to taste?
Last month, I provided some Advice For Attending The Boston Wine Expo, twenty suggestions for making the most of your expo experience. My first suggestion was to make a plan of which wine regions and/or specific wineries tables you want to visit and taste. Rather than waste your time wandering around the hall, you should have an idea of what you want to taste. I suggested you check the list of participating exhibitors and spend some time deciding on where you want to go.
I'm also going to provide you with my own suggestions for which wines you should check out, partially based on another prior suggestion I gave to my readers: Take this opportunity to expand your palate and try different wines, hoping to find new wines to enjoy. With all the diversity of wines available, it makes little sense to spend your time drinking the same wines you drink at home all the time. Be willing to experiment and taste something different.
This list will include many of the tables where I will also sample wines as I too like to taste new wines, to expand my own vinous horizons. In addition, I may add to this list in the days up to the Expo, as additional exhibitors are added to their website.
Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana (Table 515)
This is one of the best Sherry bodegas in Spain, and I was fortunate to visit the winery back in 2010. They will be showcasing their delicious La Gitana Manzanilla as well as a number of non-Sherry wines they produce. I haven't previously tasted these non-Sherry wines so am excited to sample them. I expect them to be quality wines based on my experience with their exquisite Sherries.
Portuguese Wines (Tables 261, 263, 265, 360, 362, 364, & 372)
As I've often said, Portugal produces some of the best value wines in the world and if you want inexpensive, but delicious, wines then you need to explore Portugal. Portugal has lots of intriguing, indigenous grapes, making their wines unique in a number of ways. Both their white and red wines are compelling. Portugal also makes fine, higher end wines as well, including amazing Ports. Take some time to explore what Portugal has to offer.
Moldovan Wines (Table 764)
Where is Moldova? You might not know anything about this Eastern European country, which was once part of the Soviet Union, but it has a lengthy history of wine production. They will be showcasing at least five wines, including a Sparkling, two Whites and two Reds, made from indigenous grapes of which you probably never have heard. I haven't had Moldova wines before so I definitely will be checking out this table. I don't know if the wines will be good or not, but I am compelled to explore these new wines.
Greek Wine (Table 720)
Greece is another country with a lengthy history of wine yet not enough consumers know about their fascinating wines. There are plenty of indigenous grapes in Greece, and they make a full gamut of wines, whites, reds, sparkling, dessert and more. I've found plenty of excellent Greek wine at prior Expos and recommend you check out what they have to offer this year.
Georgia Wines (Table 354)
The country not the state. Another country that once was part of the Soviet Union, Georgia might be the birthplace of wine production. It now produces some interesting wines, including some made in a very traditional manner in qvevri, earthenware vessels. I've enjoyed a number of Georgian wines before and continue to seek out new ones too. Why not try something different?
90+ Cellars (Table 437)
A Boston company, 90+ Cellars sources wines from all over the world, offering excellent bargains on a full array of wines. They will have plenty of good wines available for tasting at the Expo. This year, keep an eye out for the 2012 L'Amis Barbaresco, which I reviewed at an Expo preview event. They also have a few newer wines, including the Magic Door Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa, CA), Magic Door Rosso Toscana IGT (Italy), and the 90+ Cellars Lot 121 Cuvee Royale (Cotes du Rhone, France).
You're confronted with the opportunity to taste nearly 2000 different wines. There's no way you can taste all of them, or even a large percentage, so what should you do? What is the best strategy to handle this dilemma? What other advice should you know about attending such a huge event?
Next month, the Boston Wine Expowill be celebrating its 25th Anniversary during President’s Day weekend, February 13 & 14, at the Seaport Hotel & World Trade Center. Presented by the Boston Guild of Oenophilists, the Expo will be even larger this year with a number of special features to celebrate this milestone. Thousands of local wine lovers will attend this event and they would benefit from advice and suggestions for getting the most out of this event.
At the Expo, there will be the usual Grand Tasting, which will feature over 200 producers and about 1800 wines and it is easy to feel overwhelmed. People attend these events for a number of different reasons. Though many don't like to discuss it, there is always a contingent that goes just to get drunk. I don't advise anyone to do this. Instead, have fun, taste wine, but don't over do it. You will want to remember what you experienced. Use this opportunity to learn about wine, to find new favorites, and to socialize with other wine lovers.
What is my best advice for attending these Grand Tastings? Like many endeavors, the key is in your preparation. Don't just show up and drink, especially if you want to learn anything.
1) To make the most of your time at the Expo, you need to make a plan of which wine regions and/or specific wineries tables you want to visit and taste. You cannot taste every wine at the Expo, or probably even 5% of the wines. So you need to be very selective as to what you taste. If you don't go with a plan, you may waste time wandering around the hall, and might even miss a winery that you really wanted to check out. Check this site for a list of the participating exhibitors and spend some time deciding on where you want to go.
2) Don'tdrink wines you already know and like. You can do that anytime and anywhere else. Instead, take this opportunity to expand your palate and try different wines, hoping to find new wines to enjoy. Never had Portuguese wines? Then make an effort to venture to their tables and try some of their wines, from Vinho Verde to Altejano reds. With all the diversity of wines available, it makes little sense to spend your time drinking the same wines you drink at home all the time. Be willing to experiment and taste something different. Make the Expo an opportunity to explore the wide world of wine.
3) To avoid the largest crowd, go on Sunday rather than Saturday. Saturdays in the Grand Tastings are more crowded with a huge horde of attendees. Sunday though does not attract as large a horde of wine lovers. It will still be crowded, but is more manageable.
4) Dress comfortably, noting that there is always the potential you might spill wine on your clothes. So leave those white shirts, blouses, pants,etc. home. It is a casual event so there is no need to get all dressed use, though you are welcome to do so if you desire. Just beware of the possibility of wine spills. It is very important to wear comfortable shoes as you will be on your feet for several hours, walking around the tasting hall.
5) Don't wear perfume or cologne as they will interfere with your ability to smell the wine, and will also interfere with the ability of other people to do the same. So show consideration for your fellow attendees and please don't wear it.
6) Eat a hearty breakfast or lunch before going to the Expo. If you are going to be tasting all that wine, you want to have a full stomach to help nullify some of that alcohol. If you go on an empty stomach, the alcohol will hit you harder and quicker, and you won't last long. There will be some food available at these events, but it is much better to start off with a fully belly before you even get there.
7) Make sure all your electronics, such as your camera and smartphone, are fully charged. It's a pain when your battery dies half way through the Expo and you are unable to take any more photos. You might also be posting to social media while at the Expo so you want sufficient power in your smart phone to keep you going for the while event.
8) How will you get to the Expo? Remember that you will be tasting lots of wines so you may not be able to drive home safely. No one should ever drink and drive! So, if you can, take public transportation, book a nearby hotel room, or have a designated driver. Please don't drink and drive. That is the most important advice in this entire post. DON'T DRINK & DRIVE!! 9) Arrive at the Expo early as you'll beat the the long line to get into the Expo. You'll be able to enter the Grand Tasting as soon as it opens and can beat the crowds to your first tasting table. You will also be able to find a better parking spot if you drive to the Expo.
10) If you drive, leave your coat in your car. The coat check room at the Expo is always crowded and you don't want to waste time waiting in line when you could be wine tasting. The parking lots are close enough so you would only be outside for a few minutes without a coat. A New Englander should be able to handle that easily.
11) When you are tasting wines, please spit. Every sip you swallow adds to your alcohol level and if you do not spit, you will soon find yourself intoxicated. Even small sips can add up quickly. Once you are intoxicated, all of the wines will start tasting good to you and you probably won't learn anything. Spitting is the only way to navigate through a large number of wines, trying to discern which new wines appeal to you. So spit, spit, spit!
12) While you are tasting wines, take frequent breaks to drink water and eat snacks to help cleanse your palate. There are numerous food vendors at these events, many offering free samples, so there is no excuse why you can't find something to nibble upon. Water is also necessary to stay hydrated and the Expo usually has plenty of free water available. All of this will help keep your palate sharp and also try to limit the effect of all that alcohol.
13) Pair some foods with wines while you are there. This will help you better appreciate and understand some of the wines you taste. Try some McCrea's Candies Caramels and Bubbly. Try some Port and Blue Cheese. There are many possibilities and it is fun to try different wines with different foods.
14) If you find a new wine you enjoy, how will you remember it? You can take notes, writing down the name of the wine, or use your smart phone to take a picture of the wine bottle label. Nothing is worse than tasting a great wine but later forgetting its name. You will taste plenty of wines at the Expo so the only way to ensure you remember which ones you enjoyed are to take notes or pictures. Taking a photo of the label is easy and you'll be very glad later that you have a record of your favorite wines.
15) If you really enjoy a wine, ask questions about whether it is available or not. Unfortunately, not all of the wines poured at these events are yet available in Massachusetts. If it is available, they should be able to tell you the name of the distributor. Write that info down as it will help you locate the wine later. You can go to your local wine store with that info and they should be able to get the wine for you.
16) At the Expo, consider attending one of the 40 different Wine Seminars as they can be an excellent wine for more directed wine education, in a more intimate setting. You can learn about Champagne and Chianti Classico, Rioja and Burgundy. A few Seminars which sound especially appealing to me include: New England Cider;Sherry for Billionaires and Historians (a chance to taste some very old Sherries); and Decadent & Delicious: Sweet Wines of the World. Buy tickets early though as seating is limited and seminars can sell out.
17) Debuting this year will be a special W?NE Bar, where you can stop and ask members of the Boston Sommelier Society your wine-related questions as well as get a retrospective of the industry’s past 25 years and what to expect in the next 25 years. This will be an opportunity to ask any of your wine-related questions that might arise at the Expo.
18) Check out one of the free Chef Demos, where you can watch chefs, many local, demonstrate recipes and you often get to sample what they prepare. This can be a fun break from all of your wine tasting and you can see Chefs including Ming Tsai, Barbara Lynch, Chris Coombs, Louis DiBicarri, and Rachel Klein.
19) For more advanced wine lovers, get a ticket to the Vintners’ Reserve Lounge, a special tasting room for higher end wines, special vintages, as well as unique small production wines. There will be food samples there from a number of local restaurants and this year, you will also be able to indulge your sweet tooth at the 25th anniversary Dessert Bar featuring treats designed to pair with the special wines.
The Boston Wine Expowill be toasting its 25th Anniversary next President’s Day weekend, February 13 & 14, 2016, at the Seaport Hotel & World Trade Center. Presented by the Boston Guild of Oenophilists, the Expo will be even larger this year with a number of special features to celebrate this milestone.
Last week, I attended a media preview of the Expo, which including a wine tasting with over 30 wines from all over the world. There was also some food provided, from salami to risotto. For dessert, McCrea's Candies provided samples of their delicious caramels. Back in 2012, I first tasted their caramels and they were one of my top three finds at a dessert showcase. Since then, I've seen them each year at the Boston Wine Expo and last year, one of their new flavors, their Highland Single Malt Scotch Caramel, was excellent. At the 2016 Expo, I highly recommend you stop at their table to sample their caramels.
Of the wines I tasted at the preview event, I wanted to present my Top Three Favorites. I highly recommend you seek out these wines at the Boston Wine Expo, as well as seek them out at your local wine shop. You won't be disappointed.
Humboldt Imports
The NV Rossinyol de Moragas Extra Brut Cava (about $15) is produced by Fermi Bohigas, a which has been involved in working the vineyards for over 800 years.This Spanish sparkling wine is produced from a blend of traditional Cava grapes, Macabeo, Xarello and Parellada and it is made by the Champenoise method. It is organic and low production, and at this price is an excellent value. With a nice golden color and plenty of tiny bubbles, this is a dry, crisp and delicious Cava. There are tasty flavors of apple and pear, with a tiny hint of toast. It was nice paired with a creamy risotto, its acidity cutting well through the creaminess. With the holidays approaching, this would be a great choice for inexpensive bubbly.
90+ Cellars
I've long been a fan of the wines from 90+ Cellars and they recently have been creating some new labels to showcase different types of wines, especially wines that showcase terroir, which possess a sense of place.
From their Magic Door Vineyards label, they recently released the NV La Clé de la Femme Champagne (about $35), a blend of 80% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay. This is a more unusual blend as Pinot Meunier rarely headlines a Champagne, most often being a minor player in a blend. The vineyard is located in the Marne Valley, and the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation as well as spends at least 20 months on the lees. You'll love the flavors of green apple, red berries, and underlying spice and nutty notes within this bubbly.It is dry and crisp, an easy drinking Champagne with plenty of character for the price. This Champagne can easily compete with many House Champagnes that cost $50 or more. For the holidays, if you desire Champagne, this is an excellent value choice.
From their Earthshaker Wines label, they also have recently released the 2012 L'Amis Barbaresco (about $25), which is produced from 100% Nebbiolo. The wine is aged for 16-24 months in large Slovenian oak barrels. With a light red color, it has an appealing nose of red fruits with a hint of spice. On the palate, there are pleasing flavors of bright cherry with some black fruit notes, some floral elements and underlying spice. It is elegant with mild tannins that make it very approachable now without the need for cellaring, though it should age well too. In addition, it would make an excellent food wine, with dishes from pizza to pasta.
At the 2016 Boston Wine Expo, there will be the usual Grand Tasting, which will feature over 200 producers and about 1800 wines. As always, there will also be numerous other vendors, many food-related, which offer samples of their products. You can check this site for a list of the participating exhibitors. You will even have the opportunity to purchase wines through the Drync app which will be delivered to your home. There will be Chef Demonstrations on both days, with appearances by chefs including Ming Tsai, Barbara Lynch, Chris Coombs, Louis DiBicarri, and Rachel Klein.
Debuting this year will be a special W?NE Bar, where you can stop and ask members of the Boston Sommelier Society your wine-related questions as well as get a retrospective of the industry’s past 25 years and what to expect in the next 25 years.
Prices for Grand Tasting:
--Early Bird Tickets (through November 29): Saturday: $89 per person; Sunday: $79 per person
--Advance Tickets (November 30 – February 14): Saturday: $99 per person; Sunday: $89 per person
The Vintners’ Reserve Lounge is also returning, a place to taste special vintages, as well as unique d small production wines. Located in the Seaport Hotel’s Plaza Ballroom, the Vintners’ Reserve Lounge gives guests a chance to taste special wines that commonly retail for $75 and up per bottle, while enjoying tastings from the city’s finest restaurants. New this year, you can indulge your sweet tooth at the 25th anniversary Dessert Bar featuring treats designed to pair with the Vintners’ Reserve Lounge’s wines.
Prices for Vintners’ Reserve Lounge:
--Early Bird Tickets (through November 29): $185 per session
--Advance Tickets (November 30 – February 14): $200 per session
*Tickets also gran you access to the Grand Tasting.,
This year, there will be about 40 different Seminars which you can attend, educational programs for both consumers and those in the trade featuring top winemakers and industry experts. You can learn about Champagne and Chianti Classico, Rioja and Burgundy. A few Seminars which sound especially appealing to me include: Buffalo Trace's Singular Bourbons (where you'll get to taste 20 & 23 year old Pappy Van Winkle); Sherry for Billionaires and Historians (a chance to taste some very old Sherries); and Decadent & Delicious: Sweet Wines of the World.
Prices for Seminars:
--Prices range from $25-$225 by seminar
As always, the Boston Wine Expo contributes money to a local charity & in 2016, the major charitable benefactor will be the Tufts Medical Center’s Summer Camp Program for Children with Disabilities. To date, the Boston Guild of Oenophilists has raised over $1.4 million for worthy causes.
If you want to attend the Boston Wine Expo, now is the time to buy your tickets to pay the lowest price. In addition, some of the Seminars will sell out so it is better to get your tickets now if you are really interested in attending one of the seminar events.
You're confronted with the opportunity to taste hundreds of different wines. There's no way you can taste all of them, or even a large percentage, so what should you do?
In the New England area, it's now the season for two huge wine tasting events, the Mohegan Sun WineFest (MSW), which will be held January 23-25, and the Boston Wine Expo (BWE), which will be held February 14-15. I'm planning on attending both of these events and suspect I'll see a number of my wine-loving friends there too.
Both events have a Grand Tasting which showcases hundreds of different wines, and present a unique tasting opportunity, the chance to experience a diverse selection and hopefully find some new favorites. Though there are some differences between the two events, there are plenty of similarities as well. As such, I want to offer some advice and suggestions for everyone who may be attending either of these two events.
It is easy to feel overwhelmed at these Grand Tastings. People attend these events for a number of different reasons. Though many don't like to discuss it, there is always a contingent that goes just to get drunk. I don't advise anyone to do this. Instead, have fun, taste wine, but don't over do it. You will want to remember what you experienced. Use this opportunity to learn about wine, to find new favorites, and to socialize with other wine lovers.
What is my best advice for attending these Grand Tastings? Like many endeavors, the key is in your preparation. Don't just show up and drink, especially if you want to learn anything.
1) Make a plan of which wine regions and/or specific wineries you want to visit. You cannot taste every wine, or probably even 10% of the wines. So you need to be very selective as to what you taste. If you don't go with a plan, you may waste time wandering around the hall, and might even miss a winery that you really wanted to check out. With a plan, you can best take advantage of your limited time. The BWE has a detailed list of Exhibitors on their website which makes such pre-planning easier. The MSW also has a list of Exhibitors. 2) At the BWE, you will find primarily only wine available for tasting, with possibly a handful of exceptions. At the MSW, you will also find beer. cider and spirits available, with a separate area for beer and cider. The spirits are presented within the wine tasting room, and I recommend tasting them after you have already tasted the wines you wish to sample.
3) Don'tdrink wines you already know and like. You can do that anytime and anywhere else. Instead, take this opportunity to expand your palate and try different wines, hoping to find new wines to enjoy. Never had Portuguese wines? Then make an effort to venture to their tables and try some of their wines, from Vinho Verde to Altejano reds. With all the diversity of wines available, it makes little sense to spend your time drinking the same wines you drink at home all the time. Be willing to experiment and taste something different.
4) To avoid the greatest crowds, go on Sunday rather than Saturday. Saturday in the Grand Tastings are more crowded with the huge hordes of attendees. Sunday though does not attract as large a horde of wine lovers. It will still be crowded, but is more manageable. And it is worth getting to the event as soon as it opens, as it tends to get more crowded later in the day.
5) Dress comfortably, noting that there is always the potential you might spill wine on your clothes. So leave those white shirts, blouses, pants,etc. home. Wear comfortable shoes as you will be on your feet for several hours, walking around the tasting hall.
6) Don't wear perfume or cologne as they will interfere with your ability to smell the wine, and will also interfere with the ability of other people to do the same. So show consideration for your fellow attendees and please don't wear it.
7) Eat a hearty meal before going to these events. If you are going to be tasting all that wine, you want to have a full stomach to help nullify some of that alcohol. If you go on an empty stomach, the alcohol will hit you harder and quicker, and you won't last long. There will be some food available at these events, but it is better to start off with a fully belly before you even get there.
8) How will you get to these events? Remember that you will be tasting lots of wines so you may not be able to drive home safely. No one should ever drink and drive! So, if you can, take public transportation, book a nearby hotel room, or have a designated driver. Please don't drink and drive. That is the most important advice in this entire post. DON"T DRINK & DRIVE!!
9) When you are tasting wines, please spit. Every sip you swallow adds to your alcohol level and if you do not spit, you will soon find yourself intoxicated. Even small sips can add up quickly. Once you are intoxicated, all of the wines will start tasting good to you and you probably won't learn anything. Spitting is the only way to navigate through a large number of wines, trying to discern which new wines appeal to you. So spit, spit, spit!
10) While you are tasting wines, take frequent breaks to drink water and eat snacks to help cleanse your palate. There are numerous food vendors at these events, many offering free samples, so there is no excuse why you can't find something to nibble upon. Water is also necessary to stay hydrated. All of this will help keep your palate sharp, and also try to limit the effect of all that alcohol.
11) If you find a new wine you enjoy, how will you remember it? You can take notes, writing down the name of the wine, or use your smart phone to take a picture of the wine bottle label. Nothing is worse than tasting a great wine but later forgetting its name. You will taste plenty of wines at the Expo so the only way to ensure you remember which ones you enjoyed are to take notes or pictures.
12) If you really enjoy a wine, ask questions about whether it is available or not. Unfortunately, not all of the wines poured at these events is yet available in Massachusetts. If it is available, they should be able to tell you the name of the distributor. Write that info down as it will help you locate the wine later. You can go to your local wine store with that info and they should be able to get the wine for you.
13) At the BWE, consider attending one of the Wine Seminars. They can be an excellent way for more directed wine education, in a more intimate forum. Check out seminars such as Iconic Wines of Spain, Sake..Is It Just For Japanese Cuisine, Wines of Uruguay and The Modern Wines of Ancient Greece..
14) At both events there are free Chef Demos, where you can watch chefs, many local, demonstrate recipes and you often get to sample what they prepare. At the MSW, the chefs will also do book signings of their cookbooks. This can be a fun break from all of your wine tasting.
15) For more advanced wine lovers, both events have higher-end wine tasting events, with more expensive wines available for tasting. You can check out the BWE Vintner's Reserve Lounge or the MSW Elite Cru event. You have to buy a separate ticket for these events, and they are pricey, but they are compelling. I attended last year's Vintner's Reserve Lounge and I found it to be well worth the price, with an excellent selection of high-end wines as well as plenty of food.
Are you ignorant about the wines produced in your state? How much do you know about these local wineries? Have you tasted any of their wines? Or have you made an assumption that the wines aren't worthy of tasting?
The time is now to battle ignorance about local wines.
Today starts the 7th Annual Drink Local Wine Week, an event founded by Drink Local Wine (DLW), an organization whose goal is to bring greater attention to regional wines. I am on the Board of Directors for this organization. Drink Local Wine Week is an annual event that encourages bloggers and wine columnists to write something about their local wines, to increase attention for local wines among both the wine trade and consumers. We want to combat local wine ignorance.
All fifty states now produce wine, so you can be assured that if you live in the U.S., you'll be able to find local wines which you can sample and taste. California, Oregon and Washington are not the only states producing worthy wines. The quality of wines in the other 47 states has been increasing over the years, and you can find some true gems all across the country. However, many wine lovers still don't know much about their local wines and that needs to change. Wines from the other 47 need to gain greater recognition, and that requires efforts on several fronts.
We can't forget that we are also close to both Canada and Mexico, and they produce some excellent, local wines too. If you live close to the borders, you should seek out their wines, and I'm sure you will be impressed with the quality of what you find. I've enjoyed wines from Mexico and various parts of Canada, so know the types of wines they are making, and they are worthy of your attention.
Local wines, first and foremost, need better local recognition, to become more well known in their own respective states. As I have traveled, I have found many residents who seem largely ignorant of the wineries in their own states. The biggest problem seems to be that many of those people make assumptions that the wines in their states are not that good, so they don't seek out the wines. That hurts local wineries as those residents are potential customers, ignorant of the worthy products in their region.
For example, in Massachusetts there are over 30 wineries, and many locals I have spoken to are unaware of most of those wineries. I have even spoken to local wine store owners who didn't know about some of the best wineries in Massachusetts. Some of those same stores promote all the local foods they carry, yet generally fail to carry a decent selection of local wines. These are people who know about wine, and who should be cognizant of the wines being made in their own state yet they still are ignorant. That is a significant problem as those wine stores won't carry local wine if they know nothing about it.
Local wineries need greater local recognition. They need to spread the word about themselves to the people in their own state, those who will most likely become their customers. Gaining a high score in Wine Spectator won't help much if the people in your state don't know you exist. Such wineries are better off gaining recognition in more local press, educating local residents about the wonders in their own backyard. They can benefit from holding large wine tasting events, gathering together a number of local wineries to show consumers what they can find in their own state. Locals who know about good local wineries can mention them to wine stores and others.
We help to enlighten local consumers, to shatter their preconceptions about those wines. More effort is needed as well, by local wineries, local media, wine bloggers, and others, to help spread the word.
Let us work together to destroy local wine ignorance.
Drink Local Wine (DLW), the organization whose goal is to bring greater attention to regional wines, announces that the seventh annual Drink Local Wine Week (formally Regional Wine Week) will take place the week of October 12, 2014. The members of DLW encourage all North American wine critics, bloggers, and broadcasters to participate in the virtual event by publishing an article, blog, or broadcast on wines from their local area.
“We’ve made great strides over the past several years with building recognition for lesser known areas,” said Michael Wangbickler, President of the Board of Directors for Drink Local Wine. “Regions in the states of Virginia, Michigan, Maryland, Texas, and Colorado have all been receiving more press and consumers are starting to realize that wine is made in other states besides California, Oregon, and Washington. I’d like to believe that DLW has played a part in that, but there is still more to do. Drink Local Wine Week gives us an opportunity to showcase wines that don’t get as much recognition in the press.”
Drink Local Wine Week is an annual event that recruits and encourages bloggers and wine columnists to write something about their local wines. It is the original activity on which Drink Local Wine was founded, and continues to this day to increase attention for local wines among both the wine trade and consumers.
“The exponential growth of the American wine industry over the last ten years has led to thriving industries all over the country,” said Michael Kaiser, DLW Board member and Director of Public Affairs for WineAmerica. “Drink Local Wine is working to put the focus on the lesser known regions not as a competition with the established regions, but as a complement to them. A growing industry benefits consumers as well as winemakers.”
“To me, a large part of the enjoyment of wine is exploration and discovery, the adventure of tasting the vast diversity of wine, from obscure grapes to lesser known wine regions,” said Richard Auffrey, DLW Board member and author of The Passionate Foodie. “Exploring wine from states all across the U.S.., from Massachusetts to Maryland, from Texas to Colorado, is exciting and I've found plenty of worthy wines. More people need to expand their palates and taste wines outside of California, Oregon and Washington.”
“The phrase ‘variety is the spice of life’ is particularly true when it comes to wine,” said Dezel Quillen, DLW Board member and author of My Vine Spot. “Adventurism, exploration, and discovery all things I embrace, are the key to stumbling upon hidden gems from lesser known US wine regions. Trying the wine is the hurdle – high quality, personality-driven wines can be grown in areas of the US that one wouldn’t imagine. Just have an open mind and keep tasting and trying new things!”
Those interested in participating in Drink Local Wine Week 2014 need only write an article or record a broadcast and send a link to drinklocalwine@gmail.com.
The kickoff of Drink Local Wine Week 2014 will be TasteCamp 2014, with which DLW has partnered this year. TasteCamp is an annual event that immerses writers and bloggers in a new-to-them wine region. TasteCamp 2014 will take place in the Hudson River Valley October 10-12, 2014. (And I will be there!)
“We all know that there are great wines being made in California, Oregon and Washington,” said Lenn Thompson, DLW Board member, founder of TasteCamp, and Executive Editor of the New York Cork Report. “Where's the fun in only drinking those wines? I'd rather scour the lesser-known corners of the American wine industry. That's where you'll find distinctive, delicious wines that taste different from wines made anywhere else in the world and wines that not everyone knows about -- yet, anyway. When you drink local wine ---- from wherever local might be for you -- you can get to know the people behind those wines, maybe even befriend them, and come to understand and appreciate their passion and their craftsmanship. That's when wine enjoyment peaks -- when it's about more than just fermented juice in a bottle.”
Please support Drink Local Wine Week, and write something about your local wines.
Raiders Of The Lost Ark was a major hit, becoming the highest grossing film in the U.S. in 1981. I remember seeing this movie in the theater, and felt transported as the adventure progressed upon the great screen. The film evoked a sense of wonder, presenting a story of exploration and discovery, an adventure that traveled to exotic, foreign lands. It presented a mystery, which led to research into ancient traditions and cultures. There were negative forces that wanted to assert a monolithic thinking upon the world, to crush any desire for diversity.
I feel like a vinous Indiana Jones.
In a recent rant, Robert Parker lashed out against those who enjoy, promote and advocate for more esoteric grapes. He referred to them as "...some godforsaken grapes that, in hundreds and hundreds of years of viticulture, wine consumption, etc., have never gotten traction because they are rarely of interest.." He continued to say that such wines are "...in truth, rarely palatable unless lost in a larger blend..." I think Parker has lost that sense of wonder about wine.
To me, a large part of wine is exploration and discovery, the adventure of seeking out the vast diversity in wine, including many hundreds of different grapes. That exploration has taken me to wine regions all over the world, and back thousands of years in history, seeking the origins of rare grapes. It is the mystery of these esoteric grapes which beckon to my soul, which cry out for tasting and investigation. Like Indiana Jones, I am off on a vinous adventure, resisting the negative forces trying to impose their narrow minded thinking upon the world.
I have long been a champion and advocate of more esoteric wines, grapes and regions. I like supporting the underdog. However, I only support those wines which I feel are worthy. I don't just support a wine or grape because it is obscure. It must be delicious and compelling, interesting and palate pleasing. And unlike Parker, I have found many excellent wines produced from more esoteric grapes. For example, this past weekend, I tasted intriguing wines made from grapes like Mtsvane, Krakhuna and Saperavi. Such wines have earned my support.
None of that means I ignore the classics, such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. I have immense respect for them, though we all know there is plenty of rather uninspiring wine made from these grapes too. During this past weekend, I thoroughly enjoyed some exceptional wines from Burgundy, both white and red. One can enjoy both classics and the esoteric. One doesn't have to choose one over the other.
There are calls for diversity in all aspects of our society now and the wine world should be no different. We want to see more women and people of color involved in the actual wine industry, as winemakers, winery owners, sommeliers, and more. We should also seek more diversity in the wines we drink. Enjoy Chardonnay, but also understand the wonders of Godello, Arinto and Rkatsiteli. Embrace Cabernet Sauvignon but don't ignore Mencia, Touriga Franca and Caladoc.
Not every wine seeks to attain the lofty heights of Romanée-Conti. Some just want to provide a compelling and tasty wine that delivers on its price. Esoteric grapes can produce plenty of wines exactly like that. And we may never know the potential heights they can reach unless there is more experimentation with such grapes. A hidden gem might be hiding in a remote vineyard, a grape that has almost been forgotten but with vast potential. It is the folly to think we know everything about wine and which grapes make the best wine.
For me, I want to continue on the path of Indiana Jones, exploring everything that the world of wine has to offer.
