Rant: Good News & Potential Bad News For Croatian Wine From Wine Enthusiast

Wine Enthusiast has released its annual list, The Enthusiast 100: The Best Wines of 2022, and it's noted that: “Our judges went in search of discoveries, and this year they were not disappointed. From 21,000 wines blind tasted, reviewed and rated, this list of 100 wines has been selected as the best and most exciting wines of 2022." They also noted, that: "These 100 offerings were the most exciting wines of 2022, selected because they were compelling and delicious, had outstanding quality-to-price ratios and are broadly available for purchase." 

Their list included wines from 17 different countries, and Croatia was one of them, with two Croatian wines making the list. For the first time, a Croatian wine, made from an indigenous grape, Plavac Mali, was included on the list. At #53 place on the list, there was the 2018 Volarević Plavac Mali Platinum Edition, which scored 95 points. I've visited the Volarević Winery, and found Josip Volarević, the owner and oenologist, to be incredibly talented and knowledgeable. He has devoted much research into the Plavac Mali grape, conducting plenty of experimentation, and it's no surprise to me to see this wine so lauded.

And at #77 place on the list, there was the 2020 Saints Hills Le Chiffre Chardonnay, which scored 94 points. In addition, of the 21,000 wines that were reviewed by Wine Enthusiast this past year, over 20 Croatian wines were included, with ratings of 90+ points. All of these wines are currently available in the U.S. from Croatian Premium Wine Imports, and can be shipped to much of the U.S. 

It's great to see Croatian wines receiving the recognition they deserve, however, there's been concern that they won't see any attention from Wine Enthusiast in 2023. This past July, there was a sad announcement: “The following regions will no longer be tasted by Wine Enthusiast: Other U.S.(States outside of CA, WA, OR, NY, VA) and Other Europe/Asia (Bulgaria, Croatia, China, Luxembourg, Moldova, Montenegro, Morocco, Romania, Serbia, Slovenia and Switzerland).” So, it seemed that Croatian wines would no longer be reviewed by Wine Enthusiast, despite the fact that their wines received significant positive reviews in 2022. 

However, I received some information that Wine Enthusiast might have reversed their position on Croatia, and that Mike DeSimone, Writer at Large, may continue to review Croatian wines. I haven't yet seen a public announcement confirming this, but hope it turns out to be true. Croatian wines deserve wider attention, and needs more wine writers to talk of their merits. Croatia produces a wide diversity of wines, from both indigenous grapes and international varieties, and after tasting more than 500 of their wines, I can assure you there is much to love. 

For the holidays, why not consider giving Croatian wine as gifts. Or splurge and buy yourself some Croatian wines. 

SENA22: U.S. Seafood Statistics: From Wild Capture to Aquaculture

The latest issue of Urner Barry's Reporter (Spring 2002) presented their Annual Review of the State of the Seafood Industry. The issue provided some fascinating insight into the seafood industry, and allowed us to glimpse likely future trends. The issue was provided for free at the Seafood Expo North America (SENA).  

Some people rant about aquaculture, believing it's harmful and that farmed seafood doesn't taste as good as wild caught. To a large degree, they are mistaken and aquaculture is clearly the future of the seafood industry. Historically, about sixty years ago, in 1961, 95% of total seafood production in the U.S. was wild capture while only 5% involved aquaculture. However, the amount of aquaculture has grown every year since then, and now it is the majority.   

In 2013, the proportion of aquaculture exceeded wild capture for the first time, and currently total production is now 56% aquaculture and 44% wild capture. In 2019, wild capture declined 4.1% while aquaculture increased by 3.74%. It's believed that aquaculture in the coming years will grow by about 62%. 

During the past sixty years, the practice of aquaculture has improved in leaps and bounds, helping to resolve some of the earliest problems that occurred with aquaculture. The growth in improvement of aquaculture is stunning, far outstripping any gains in the farming of beef, pork, chicken, etc. Many aquaculture products have now been certified as sustainable by various organizations. It's time for people to eliminate their prejudices against farmed seafood. 

As for wild capture in 2020, total U.S. commercial landings were about 8.4 billion pounds, valued at $4.78 Billion, which was a decrease from the prior year of $818 Million. The top landed species, by volume, was Alaska Pollock, constituting about 3.2 Billion pounds, nearly 40% of the total. The rest of the Top 10 landings, by volume, included: Menhadens, Hake/Whiting, Pacific Cod, Yellowfin/Salmon, Sockeye Salmon, Pink Sole, Rockfish/Pacific Ocean Perch, Mackeral/Atka, and American Lobster. 

Pollock has become the "white fish" of choice in many prepared and frozen fish products, from fried fish sandwiches to frozen fish sticks.  

The top landed species, by value, was the American Lobster, constituting about $530 Million. The rest of the Top 10 landings, by value, included: Sea Scallop, Pollock/Walleye, Sockeye Salmon, Northern White Shrimp, Dungeness Crab, Menhadens, Blue Crab, Eastern Oyster, and Pacific Cod. It's probably no surprise that lobster is the most valued landing. 

The U.S. also exported about 2.8 billion pounds of seafood in 2021, valued at about $5.5 billion, an increase of 355 million pounds (+14.7%) and $952 million (+22.6%) compared to 2020. The Top 10 cxports included: Pollock, Salmon, Hake, Squid, Soles, Lobster, Mackerel, Cod, Ocean Perch, and Crab. So, the U.S. exports nearly 35% of all their landings.

  

In addition, in 2021, the U.S. imported seafood totaling about 7 Billion pounds, valued at $28 Bllion; an increase from 2020 of about 747 Million pounds (+12%) and $6.5 Billion (+30%). The Top 10 imports included: Shrimp, Salmon, Tuna, Tilapia, Crab, Catfish, Cod, Squid, Lobster, and Pollock. I'll add that in 2021, Shrimp imports were also at their highest ever recorded level, almost 2 Billion pounds. Shrimp remains hugely popular and most of the shrimp consumed in the U.S. is imported from around the world. 

Finally, the article noted numerous challenges currently facing the seafood industry, although many of these issues are faced by all industries during these trying times. Their issues include: shipping delays, labor shortages, increased cold storage fees, elevated replacement costs, container shortages, rising freight costs, tempered production, and active demand. This has all contributed to an increase in seafood prices, and as many consumers already thought seafood was too expensive, this hasn't helped increase the consumption of seafood. 

My History of U.S. Sake Breweries Inspires A Journal Article

Back in April 2015, I posted one of my favorite articles, An Expanded History of Sake Brewing in the U.S., which discussed the early history of Sake breweries in the U.S. My research for this article included combing through hundreds of old newspapers, picking out tidbits of information that hadn't been previously collected into a single resource. It was a fascinating exploration, expanding my knowledge of this topic, and revealing intriguing facts which contradicted what many previously believed.

Many Japanese believed that the first Sake brewery outside of Japan was established in Hawaii in 1908, the Honolulu Japanese Sake Brewery. However, that is not the case as a Sake brewery, the Japan Brewing Co., was incorporated in Berkeley, California in June 1901, seven years earlier than the Honolulu brewery. In addition, two other California Sake breweries were established in 1903 and 1907, meaning that the Honolulu brewery was actually the fourth established outside of Japan. The Honolulu brewery had a greater impact on the Sake industry than those California breweries, but it is important to ensure the history is accurate.

I also wrote a companion piece, Historical Tidbits About Sake In the U.S., noting a number of Sake references in U.S. newspapers from 1854 to 1926. Some of the references were positive while others were negative, reflective of racism against the Japanese. However, it is interesting to see these myriad views about Sake.

Since publishing the original article, I've been corresponding with Tsuneo Kita (the man in the above photo), who is the Representative Director of Kita Sangyo Co., Ltd., a company which creates packaging materials, from bottles to cans, and their customers include a number of Sake breweries. Tsuneo Kita is also very interested in Sake history and was intrigued by my article. We've have some pleasant discussions about a variety of Sake matters.  

Recently, Mr. Kita was published an article, Sake Brewing History in North America‒ Complete List of Sake Breweries existed/existing in the US and Canada, in the The Japanese Journal For The History of Brewing (#32, February 2017). In the above photo, you can see the front cover of the journal, which is in Japanese. At the top of this page, you can see the English version of the journal's cover. The article, written in Japanese, is 27 pages long, and includes a few charts and photographs, building upon much of the history from my article. It is well worth seeking out this article if you can read Japanese.  

Mr. Kita also notes in this article, ensuring it was in English: "This paper would not exist without a blog of April 2015, written by Mr. Richard Auffrey. I express my sincerest appreciation to him." Within the article, there are also numerous references to my article. Mr. Kita sent me a copy of the journal, and I've been able to use Google Translate to get a rough translation. The article is not yet available online but hopefully it will end up there in the near future.

The history of Sake breweries in the U.S. is a compelling topic and worthy of additional research. The details of many of these early breweries has largely been lost and it would be great to uncover those hidden details.

Rant: Two Restaurant Reviews, One Failure

Two reviews, in different local periodicals, of the same new restaurant. Both written by experienced and knowledgeable reviewers. However, one of those reviews succeeds while the other fails. Why is that the case?

To me, there are four primary elements that every professional restaurant review should address, including food, drink, price and service. There are numerous secondary aspects that can be addressed as well, such as the restaurant's size, decor, ambiance, parking availability, etc. If a review ignores one of the four primary elements, then I feel it has failed in its execution, omitting significant information that many potential customers would like to know. Such an omission does a disservice to both the potential customer and the restaurant.  

Of the four primary elements, one seems to be ignored the most, despite its importance to many diners. I've raised this issue before but it bears repeating as it remains a problem. A number of restaurants reviews ignore a restaurant's drink program, even when that element is a vital aspect of the restaurant's concept. That is a clear failure and professional reviewers should know better than to ignore such an important element.

This is the reason why one of the two reviews I recently read failed. It failed to discuss the restaurant's drinks program, even though it plays a significant role in the restaurant. And this restaurant has some unique elements to its drinks program, highlighted by the other reviewer, which would entice a number of potential customers to check out the restaurant. That information should have been in the failed review too.  

Many restaurants invest much time and effort into developing their drink lists and bar programs. They may bring in experts, sommeliers, mixologists and more, to help design those programs. They may be rightfully proud about their accomplishments, and it becomes a significant reason why diners will patronize their establishment. Potential customers might seek out a restaurant because of its tequila bar or whiskey list, their natural wines or Sake menu. When reading a restaurant review, they want to read about the food but many also want to learn about the drinks program.

Consider the example of a Japanese izakaya. The literal meaning of izakaya is a “sit-down-Sake-shop,” though it now generally refers to a Japanese bar that serves any type of alcohol, not just Sake, and also food to accompany that alcohol. Izakayas originated during the Edo period (1603-1867 AD) when Sake vendors began to provide tables and seats for their patrons, and eventually started serving food with the Sake samples. Thus, in an izakaya, their alcohol and food are both significant and warrant discussion in any professional review. Failure to do so ignores an important aspect of the izakaya's concept.

Diners can sometimes spend more on their alcohol than their food so that alone would point to its significance. Other diners specifically seek out restaurants with specific drink programs, such as a well curated wine list. Lovers of spirits may seek out a restaurant with a large and/or unique selection of their favorite spirit. They want to read a restaurant review and learn about what drinks it has to offer, and whether it has something to entice them or not.

Restaurant reviewers, please don't ignore a restaurant's drinks program. It is significant information that should be within your review, and will better help your readers decide whether they want to patronize that restaurant or not.

Ugh! More Stinkin' Scores For Sake From Wine Advocate

"Sake is this kind of product that once you begin to understand it more, the more passion you have for it and the more enjoyment you get from it."
--Liwen Hao in Wine Advocate #229

The Wine Advocate is back at it, scoring Sakes, and I still vehemently disagree that it will be helpful in promoting Sake. In fact, I believe it is most likely to have an opposite effect, driving away the average consumer from purchasing Sake. It's great to see Sake reviews but they don't need numeric scores!

I've ranted about this issue before, as far back as 2013, and you can check out the progression of my previous posts: Rant: Sake Don't Need No Stinkin' Scores!, Rant: Sake Still Don't Need No Stinkin' Scores! and Update: Sake Still Don't Need No Stinkin' Scores! I knew the Wine Advocate was going to continue rating Sake and I've been keeping watch for their next review, after last summer's Issue #226.

In the newest issue of the Wine Advocate (February 2017, #229), Liwen Hao, the Asian Wine Reviewer for Wine Advocate, once again wrote an article about Sake as well as reviewing 21 Sakes. In his article, The Sake Trail, Liwen described his visit to Japan this winter, with stops in Kyoto, Nada and Saijo. He visited numerous breweries in these areas, and his article notes the importance of water sources for Sake brewing, Sake rice types, and the issue of terroir. There were some beautiful photos that accompanied the article. It was a nice article, though he didn't go into as much depth as I would have preferred, though that isn't a significant criticism.

"It is not farfetched to say that to understand more about Nada sake, one has to understand more about Kobe beef—the pairing of local food and beverage is always a seductive topic."

--Liwen Hao in Wine Advocate #229

In the prior issue #226, Liwen reviewed 78 Sakes, all Junmai Ginjo and Junmai Daiginjo, and rated them from 90-98 points. For the new issue #229, Liwen only reviewed 21 Sakes, 15 which were Daiginjo, and the remaining 6 were a mishmash of types, surprisingly including a Futsu-shu. This time, the range of scores ranged from 80-96, though of the 6 Sakes that earned 90+ points, 5 received 90 or 91 points, and 1 received 96 points, the Honda Shoten 1996 Tatsuriki Akitsu Junmai Daiginjo. The lowest scoring Sake, at 80 points, was the Gekkeikan Jyosen Karakuchi Futsu-shu. A number of these Sakes are already imported into the U.S.

So far, the Sake article and reviews have not been discussed on the Wine Advocate's Bulletin Board or on the Wine Berserkers forum. It is apparent the new reviews aren't sparking sufficient interest to get these people to discuss Sake. And if they aren't discussing it, then they probably agent's drinking it either. I also have not yet seen any other online articles referencing these new Sake reviews. The reviews haven't apparently initiated any significant discussions anywhere and it is hard to believe they are going to have any significant, positive effect for Sake in general. I'm waiting to see if the prices of the reviewed Sakes rise, as they did when issues #226 was released.

The Editorial Calendar for the Wine Advocate notes that for the rest of 2017, there is only one other Sake article scheduled, for issue #230, at the end of April, and it is titled "Good Value Sakes." The Wine Advocate should have tried to schedule a Sake article for near October 1, International Sake Day. That is a missed opportunity. And after April, the Wine Advocate will have eight months of no Sake coverage which won't help promote Sake.

Sake articles and reviews are great, but we don't need Scores. Such Scores will cause more harm than good and read my previous posts on the subject for the myriad reasons why that is the case.

Let me repeat once again: Sake doesn't need numeric scores!

2016: Favorite Food-Related Items

What were some of my favorite food-related items of the past year?

Let me continue my collection of lists of my best recommendations and favorites of the past year, 2016. On Wednesday, I posted my list of my Favorite Restaurant Dishes of 2016 and yesterday, I posted my Favorite Restaurants & Top 50 list. Now I want to address my favorites for other Food-Related Items, from culinary school to food events, seafood to candy. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more food-related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Culinary School: Nothing else touched my heart this year as much as NECAT, a local culinary school which trains people from challenging backgrounds, from ex-convicts to recovering addicts, from the homeless to the chronically unemployed. NECAT fills the important need for culinary help while helping numerous people achieve a better life. It is such a worthy school and I want to raise its visibility, so that its good work can continue and even expand. I'll be talking more about NECAT in 2017 as it is a cause I believe in and which benefits our community in a number of ways.

Favorite Food Trade Event: For the sixth year in a row, I have selected the Seafood Expo North America (SENA) as my favorite. It is a massive trade event, a three day event showcasing purveyors of seafood and related vendors. You'll find tons of free seafood samples and learn plenty, from sustainability to cooking. The Seafood Show is an engaging event and I often write numerous articles about what I learn about there. The Seafood Show is compelling on many levels and I look forward to attending the next SENA in March 2017. Hope to see you there too.

Favorite Seafood Trend: There had been a slow decline in the amount of Seafood Consumption in the U.S., despite the USDA and other authorities stating people should consume about 26 pounds of seafood each year. Consuming seafood is a great way to reduce heart disease and prevent other medical issues too. In 2005, we saw a significant gain in seafood consumption, almost an entire pound, to 15.5 pounds. It is still much lower than it should be but it is positive progress and we can only hope that the trend continues and people continue eating more seafood.

Favorite Food Magazine: For the sixth year in a row, Lucky Peach easily prevails as my favorite. This quarterly magazine is eclectic and irreverent, with fascinating articles, essays, recipes, and more. I eagerly devour each issue, which usually has a specific theme, when it is released and its quality has remained consistent. It entertains and educates, as well as providing much for reflection. If you love food and are not reading Lucky Peach, then shame on you.

Favorite Food Book: In Pastrami on Rye: The Rise & Fall of the Jewish Deli, Ted Merwin explores the history of the New York Jewish deli, from its origins to the present day. During this exploration, Merwin also mentions Jewish delis in other U.S. regions, including Boston, though the majority of the book centers on New York. It is a fascinating history of the New York deli and you'll find much of interest in its contents. I would have liked to see more information about some of the dishes served at the delis but hopefully Merwin will write a sequel to continue the compelling story he has begun.

Favorite Food Contest: For the second year in a row, the Battle of the Burger wins this category. It is was a fierce competition, presenting plenty of delicious and inventive burgers for tasting. And who doesn't love the opportunity to taste more than 20 different burgers? It is a full scale event, with music, wine and cocktails to complement all of the burgers. The event didn't get too crowded until later in the evening, giving me plenty of time to savor burger after burger. I recommend you check out this event next year.

Favorite Food Trend: It is only in its infancy in the Boston area, but I'm hoping it makes a significant impact. Nikkei cuisine, at its most basic, is "the cooking of the Japanese diaspora," and thus varies dependent on where the Japanese settled as they adjusted and modified their cuisine, using different local ingredients and cooking styles. Nikkei cuisine is prominent in Peru and this past year, there was a late night Nikkei menu at Tico, showcasing this cuisine and I loved what I tasted. This month, a new restaurant, RUKA, just opened and it too offers Nikkei cuisine. I haven't been there yet but the menu looks promising and I will be visiting it in the near future. Let us hope more Nikkei cuisine comes to Boston too.

Favorite New Farm: I was thoroughly impressed with Little Leaf Farms, a hydroponic lettuce farm in Shirley. and wrote a series of three article about it, including Part 1, Part 2 and Part 3. The lettuce  is local, yields are high, and it tastes delicious. As most lettuce comes from California and Arizona, it is great to have a local option, including one where almost no human hands touches the lettuce. This is the future of lettuce and you need to check out their products at your local supermarket. Little Leaf hopes to expand in the near future and that would help increase production and let more local people enjoy this local, sustainable product.

Favorite Cheese Shop: When it comes to cheese, the suburbs reign supreme once again with the Concord Cheese Shop, which commonly stocks 150-200 cheeses, including many local cheeses. The staff is very knowledgeable and passionate about their cheese, and they are always seeking out new cheeses for their stock. Besides all that cheese, they also carry a variety of other gourmet foods as well as wines and beers. It is an excellent destination for many reasons.

Favorite Frozen Seafood: Stuffed clams are a traditional New England dish and Matlaw's Stuffed Clams does it right. They are inexpensive, come in a variety of flavors, are easy to prepare and are quite tasty. If you served them to guests, they probably would not even know they had been frozen. The Bacon & Cheese Stuffed Clams had a nice smoky flavor and plenty of cheesy goodness while the Chorizo Stuffed Clams had a nice spicy kick. Plus, these stuffed clams are processed locally, in Gloucester, which gives another reason to support these products.

Favorite Local Seafood Purveyor: Located on the Boston fish pier, Red's Best sells fish for over 1,000 fishermen, offering more than 60 types of seafood which is sustainable and has traceability. It is all domestic seafood, much local, and it includes under-utilized species. I really like their philosophy, their support of small, local fishermen, and their passion. They now have a small store at the Boston Public Market which you should visit to buy some excellent seafood.

Favorite Chips:  At this year's Burger Battle, I sampled the Late July Snacks Sweet Potato Multigrain Tortilla Chips and really enjoyed them. They were thick, crunchy and flavorful, with a nice spice to the taste. And they are healthier than many other snacks so are something you should seek out at your local supermarket.

Favorite Cider Donuts: There are basically two types of cider donuts, the soft ones like at Russell Orchards in Ipswich, and heavier, more cakey cider donuts that you can find at a number of other farms. My favorite are the ones from Russel, which are soft and moist, with a slightly crusty exterior, and the right balance of apple and spice flavors. And when they are warm, it's hard not to eat several on your way from the cash register to your car. With the heavier style, they tend to be more dry, less moist, and you need to have a drink with them to help wash down the dry donut. They also feel heavier in your stomach so that you rarely want more than one. Even warm, they still feel heavy and dry, and just don't satisfy like the lighter style.

Favorite New Candy: Though they are only available in Japan, the Sake-Flavored Kit Kats are awesome. These Kit Kats are created with a Sake powder which is added between the white chocolate and wafers, and the candy actually has an alcohol content of 0.8%. When you break them open, you can detect a subtle aroma of Sake, a hint of steamed rice and melon. And when you taste it, you get a mild Sake note amidst the sweet white chocolate and crispy wafer. And the more you ear, you'll realize there is more of a pleasant Sake aftertaste. You can find some on Ebay and they are worth picking up.

Favorite Dessert & Wine Combination: McCrea's Candies makes a variety of delicious caramels and I've been enjoying their caramels since 2012. They are a local company and have been regularly exhibiting at the Expo. This year, they were involved in my favorite food & wine pairing of the Boston Wine Expo. I enjoyed their Black Lava Sea Salt Caramel with the Bodegas Hidalgo-La Gitana Alameda Cream Sherry. The sweet and salty caramel went well with the complex flavors of the Sherry, including its nutty, briny and caramel notes. A magical combination.

What were some of your favorite food-related items this year?

Update: Sake Still Don't Need No Stinkin' Scores!

Sake doesn't need numeric scores!

Back in 2013, I saw the writing on the wall, that it was coming, and I ranted that Sake Don't Need No Stinkin' Scores! At that time, I'd seen a few magazines and online Sake reviews that provided numeric scores for Sake, usually on a 100 point scale. However, it was relatively uncommon and seemed to have little to no impact. Then, this past summer, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate published 78 Sake reviews, each with a score, leading to my new Rant: Sake Still Don't Need No Stinkin' Scores!

I wanted to update my Rant, to see what had occurred since the release of the Wine Advocate's scores. Had it lead to increased interest in Sake, or had my own negative scenarios occurred?

Initially, the Sake article was largely ignored on the Wine Advocate forum. No one mentioned the article and it certainly didn't seem to increase any interest in Sake. Over at the Wine Berserkers forum, there was some discussion of the Sake article & reviews, but a fair amount centered on the qualifications of Liwen Hao. It didn't seem to be increasing anyone's interest in Sake. At least initially, the Sake ratings didn't seem to be raising interest in Sake.

A couple weeks after the release of the Sake article and reviews, a potential scandal took front and center as a Japanese exporter, The Taste Of Sake, offered all 78 Sakes that had been reviewed, and only those Sakes. The timing of the website, essentially on the day the reviews were released, seemed more than coincidental and questions were raised about the integrity of the Sake review process. This scandal was then discussed on the Wine Advocate and Wine Berserkers forums, certainly not helping the reputation of Sake. The Wine Advocate started an investigation of the matter, finally posting the results on October 16. The Taste of Sake shut down their website and operations during the investigation period.

Lisa Perrotti-Brown of The Wine Advocate stated: "It is believed that when Liwen Hao asked for extra technical information, the information was misused. Upon our legal counsel’s investigation, Millesimes acknowledged that the failure to maintain the confidentiality of this information was a breakdown in the process, and may have led to the dissemination of the list of sakes prior to posting the tasting notes and scores." She also stated a couple actions that would be taken in future tastings to prevent a repeat of this type of incident. Though there remain a few unanswered questions, the discussion of this matter will likely die down, though when the next Sake reviews are released, there will be added scrutiny as to anyone selling those specific Sakes.

It is also important to note that the importer, The Taste of Sake, quickly raised the prices of the Sake that he was selling. Which is exactly the type of price gouging I was concerned about in my last rant, pricing Sake out of reach of the average consumer. There is little reason that other importers, distributors and retailers won't also raise the prices on highly rated Sakes, keeping them out of the reach of the average consumer. And that won't help raise the popularity of Sake or increase consumption.

Since the release of the Wine Advocate Sake reviews, several articles in newspapers and online publications have generally made brief reference to them. One Sake brewery, Urakasumi Sake Brewery, also highlighted their score on their website, noting "Yamadanishiki Junmai Daiginjo Urakasumi Koshu was selected as one of the great sake and rated 91 points."

The Daily Mail, in the UK, published an article "Japan sake pours overseas as local market dries up" with only a quick mention of the Wine Advocate Sake ratings. The Telegraph, also in UK, published the article After wine, is sake the new drinkable investment?, noting the Sake ratings and discussing their investment potential. Such Sakes aren't for the average consumer, but more for the monied investor, seeing something he might be able to sell for a profit in the future. Jancis Robinson also penned a recent Sake article, mentioning the Sake ratings and alleged scandal.

Recently in Decanter, Anthony Rose penned an article, Sake: A Beginner's Guide & Top Recommendations. There is a brief article on some Sake basics and then 9 reviews, each Sake with scores, ranging from 89-94, on a 100 point system. Thus, they are using a rating system similar to the Wine Advocate. Anthony last wrote a Sake article in Decanter back in November 2008, and there were no Sake ratings then. Could this also be the future of Decanter coverage for Sake? I should note that the article has not received any online comments, potentially indicative of a lack of interest.

The Wine Advocate won't be reviewing any more Sakes this year, though plans to do so in 2017, allegedly covering a "broader range of styles and quality levels." It seems clear that their prior article and reviews didn't significantly raise the profile of Sake, especially with average consumers. Even the Wine Advocate forum posters didn't seem concerned about Sake until a scandal was alleged. The ratings did lead to higher prices for the rated Sakes which isn't good news for the average consumer. I have seen nothing over the last couple months which would change my opinions from my prior Rant.

Let me repeat: Sake doesn't need numeric scores!

Rant: Sake Still Don't Need No Stinkin' Scores!

"Great sake is like a poem. When tasting beautiful sake, you might sing... Mist in the valley... Spring in the mountains... or Breeze in the forest..."
--Liwen Hao in Wine Advocate, #226

It was inevitable. Back in 2013, I saw the writing on the wall, that it was coming, and I ranted that Sake Don't Need No Stinkin' Scores! At that time, I'd seen a few magazines and online Sake reviews that provided numeric scores for Sake, usually on a 100 point scale. However, it was relatively uncommon and seemed to have little to no impact. You didn't see those scores at local wine shops and I wasn't hearing anyone talking about them.

The May 2013 issue of Wine Spectator contained three articles on Sake, as well as tasting notes for over 50 Sakes. Rather than evaluate the Sakes by their usual 100 point system, Wine Spectator listed the Sakes as Good, Very Good or Outstanding. In comments on a post on the Colorado Wine Press, Thomas Matthews, the Executive Editor of Wine Spectator, mentioned, "We have much less experience with sake, and felt that broader categories would be more appropriate to express our opinions on their quality. However, I could easily see a critic with deeper experience in sake using the 100-point scale, and perhaps if we taste extensively enough, one day we will too."

It was easy to predict that the day would come when the Wine Spectator, or another major wine publication, would use the 100 point system to rate Sake. That day arrived last week when Robert Parker's Wine Advocate published reviews, with numeric scores, of 78 Sakes.

Technically, this isn't the first time that the Wine Advocate has provided scored reviews for Sake. Back in October 1998 (issue #199), Robert Parker wrote an article, The Sumo Taste (A Beginner's Guide to Understanding Sake), and reviewed 48 Sakes, the majority being Daiginjo, scoring them from 86 to 91. It has taken the Wine Advocate 18 years to start scoring Sake again.

For the new Sake reviews, famed Sake critic Haruo Matsuzaki, who John Gautner referred to as a "sake critic extraordinaire" and "the most respected critic in the industry, especially among the brewers themselves," first selected a group of top Junmai Sakes from an initial pool of 800. Then, Liwen Hao, the Asian Wine Reviewer for Wine Advocate, selected 78 Sakes, all Junmai Ginjo and Junmai Daiginjo, from the group chosen by Matuszaki, providing descriptive reviews and a numeric score.

The Wine Advocate announced the hiring of Liwen Hao back in December 2015, noting he would review Asian wine and other alcoholic beverages, as well as support the new Chinese version of RobertParker.com. Hao was born in Xi’An, raised in Shanghai, and first began working in the wine industry in 2004, taking a job with the ASC, the biggest wine importer in China. He also became a wine writer, eventually penning two wine books, and did a series of well-received wine education videos. In 2014, he founded a wine education school, and Liwen notes that he has been learning about Sake for many years.

Liwen wrote an introductory article, Sake-The Drop of Poetry, for the Wine Advocate, presenting some accurate, basic information about Sake, its ingredients, storage advice, serving suggestions, and more. In addition, Liwen presents Sake in an unpretentious manner, providing advice to make consumers feel better about knowing little about Sake. He states: "Some basic knowledge is needed if you want to look professional in front of others, but the best way is to find your own preference and use your own words to describe it." And as Liwen notes, this advice would apply to wine as well.

I liked this article and believe it could help interest more consumers in Sake. First, it presents basic Sake information in a brief and easily understood manner. Second, it helps to reassure consumers that anyone can enjoy Sake and that they should use their own words to describe the aroma and flavors of Sake. Third, when you consider the quote at the top of this post, it seems that Liwen understands the soul and aesthetics of Sake. However, I was less enamored with the scores accompanying the Sake reviews that came after this article.

A list of 78 Sake reviews was presented, including 66 Junmai Daiginjo and 12 Junmai Ginjo, with links to the descriptive reviews. Though the Sakes were technically evaluated on a scale that ranges from 50 to 100 points, not a single Sake scored less than 90 points, with the highest score being a 98. The scores can be broken down as such: 1 at 98 points, 2 at 95 points, 1 at 94 points, 5 at 93 points, 17 at 92 points, 23 at 91 points, and 29 at 90 points.

According to the Wine Advocate rating system, a score of 90-55 indicates "An outstanding wine of exceptional complexity and character." And a score of 96-100 indicates "An extraordinary wine of profound and complex character displaying all the attributes expected of a classic wine of its variety." By this rating system, all of the reviewed Sakes were outstanding with a single extraordinary one.

The 98 point Sake was the Kusumi Shuzo Kame-No-O Sannen Jukusei Junmai Daiginjo, priced at 10,000 yen (about $97). The two 95 point Sakes included the Iwase Shuzo Iwanoi Yamahai Junmai Daiginjo and Katsuyama Shuzo Katsuyama Akatsuki Junmai Daiginjo ($190). According to the Financial Times, the cheapest Sake on the list allegedly costs only 1500 yen ($14.50) though it was not identified. When perusing the descriptive reviews, you'll find that a number of the Sakes do not have listed prices.

Obviously, only top notch Sakes were selected to be reviewed, indicative of the high scores they all received. The Sake reviews were not intended to be a general overview of the range of available Sakes, by either type or quality, but rather a showcase of some of the best that is currently available. No Honjozo were included, and only a handful of different styles were included, such as Genshu and Namazake.

A few people have commented that these Sake scores will be a good thing, giving more visibility and promotion to Sake. However, my thoughts are different, and I believe they may potentially cause more harm than good. My current thoughts are consistent with my earlier Rant, though I see the need to expand upon those prior comments, especially as the last few years have seen a greater opposition against the 100 point wine system. I don't see a sufficient potential advantage to numeric scoring to outweigh the potential negatives.

Describe it, evaluate it, but don't score it.

First, the mere existence of numeric scores for Sake reviews from a major wine publication is certainly not a guarantee of increased consumption or sales, especially with the general public. I will note that there hasn't been any discussion yet of the Sake reviews on the Wine Advocate Forums. This could be indicative of a lack of interest in Sake to many of the Wine Advocate subscribers. It is still early, and Sake discussions could take place in the near future, but it is telling that despite a thread on the new issue of the Wine Advocate, there hasn't been mention of Sake yet. Whatever the reasons, it isn't a positive sign for Sake that the recent reviews aren't being mentioned.

We can also examine the status of other niche beverages, which have received wine scores for many years, but which haven't caught on with the general public. For example, Spanish Sherry still remains a tiny niche, especially the dry versions, currently selling even less in the U.S. than Sake. Scores didn't boost the general popularity of Sherry so why would it do so with Sake? A few high scoring Sherries might be cherished by wealthy collectors, but the average consumer could care less about Sherry. There are a number of other examples of niche wines, from Greek wine to Cremant d'Alsace, which certainly don't seem to have been helped significantly by the existence of scores.

Since the release of the Wine Advocate reviews last week, the Financial Times has already noted that initially, there has been a boost in sales of the reviewed Sakes, but it seems mainly from wealthy collectors and high-end restaurants & bars, including some seeking to buy large amounts of specific Sakes. This is only a tiny part of the market and doesn't include the average consumer. Sake scores might spur on wealthy collectors, but there isn't any evidence yet that there will be increased sake purchases by average consumers. And if wealthy collectors start buying all the highly scored Sakes, that will lead to my second point.

Second, one of the compelling aspects of Sake is its relative low ceiling on its highest prices. Usually, you won't find a Sake for more than $150 a bottle and prices are often closely aligned with the costs of producing Sake. There are exceptions but they are rare. Compare that to the wine world where there are plenty of wines costing more than $150. One of the significant factors that has led to those high wine prices are numeric scores. Wine stores may raise the prices of high scoring wines, pricing them out of the range of the average consumer. Do you want to see Sake prices rise merely because they garnered a high score? The effect of higher prices would likely decrease general consumption and drive more consumers away.

The Financial Times is in agreement, stating: "But the days of reasonably priced sake may be numbered: one of the drivers behind the list, said Ernest Singer, Robert Parker’s representative in Japan and a veteran wine importer, was to enable the best sake producers to raise prices." Thus, it seems that scores were specifically intended to raise prices, making my previous worry a reality. The alleged rationale for this matter was: "That in turn increases the odds of survival in a market where only 1,300-odd breweries are active and even the best are walking a financial tightrope."

But can the producers increase their production to meet demand? That is a real concern. In addition, should Sake breweries place their future merely in the hands of wealthy collectors, who might turn out to be fickle? As Sake generally should be consumed within a year of their release, it isn't the type of beverage that collectors can store away for years. It thus becomes less of an investment vehicle. It isn't like Bordeaux or California Cabernet. Its shorter life span might be an eventual turn off to wealthy collectors once they realize that fact. And then, they could move onto a different niche beverage, one that they can safely age in their cellars for many years.

Third, what Sake taste profile should critics base their numeric scores upon? In general, American palates prefer aromatic, big, bold and rich flavored Sakes. Is this a side effect of consumers following the perceived wine preferences of Robert Parker? Possibly. On the other hand, the Japanese generally prefer more subtle Sakes, which might have muted aromas, and which may be “as easy to drink as water.” Which style would or should garner high scores? If a prominent critic's numeric scores reward big, bold Sakes, then there could eventually be a backlash against such Sakes as there has been a backlash against so-called Parker style wines. Both styles need to be embraced, and neither style should be promoted over another.

Fourth, numeric scores could promote lazy and ignorant distributors, store owners, restaurants and other purveyors of Sake. As it stands, many of those people and establishments already need more basic education about Sake. If they learned more about Sake, they would be capable of selling more Sake, just as increased wine knowledge helps them sell more wine. They need to invest the time and effort into Sake education, just as they do wine. If these people can just point a customer to a high scoring Sake, making a recommendation merely based on a number, there is less incentive for them to learn about Sake. Scores give them an easy out.

There is no guarantee that a consumer is going to enjoy a Sake just because it receives a high score. Despite its high score, it might not be the style of Sake that the specific consumer would enjoy. And if a consumer tastes a high scoring Sake and doesn't like it, they might decide they don't like Sake at all.  A mere numeric score also won't tell a consumer anything about which foods would best pair with a specific Sake. Though consumers are advised to not rely on just a score, but to also read the review, that is not what always happens in reality. A significant number of consumers find it much easier just to rely on a numeric score and not read the reviews.

Consumers are best served by educated wine store employees who can help them select the best Sakes for their preferences, as well as indicate the best food pairings for those Sakes. Wine store employees will take the time to learn about wine, and they should also take time to learn about Sake. It isn't that difficult of a subject, and will help them sell more Sake. Don't take the easy way out and just promote scores, rather than provide more constructive suggestions.

Fifth, there are some unanswered questions about the future of Sake reviews at the Wine Advocate.  Most importantly, how often will they review Sake? Will it be a once a year event? If so, how will a single annual review effect general Sake consumption? It would seem that wouldn't help much, catering more to wealthy collectors who once a year stock up on highly rated Sakes. A once a year review also wouldn't do much to help consumption and raise consumer awareness throughout the rest of the year. Even if they review Sake quarterly, that still might not be sufficient to raise awareness for the general public.

There are other questions to consider as well. Will they only review Junmai Ginjo and Junmai Daiginjo? Or will they review the entire range of Sake types and styles? It would be better if they reviewed the entire range of premium Sakes, and expanded beyond the limited parameters of this initial review. Will future Sake reviews also be initially filtered through Haruo Matsuzaki before the final group is chosen by Liwen Hao? Or will Liwen make all of the selections on his own?

Finally, the 100 point system, as it has been used for wine, has received much criticism in recent years and those criticisms would generally apply to scoring Sake as well. You can find those criticisms listed in numerous online and published articles. There is little need to repeat all those items here.

To get more consumers to drink Sake, the first and most important thing to do it is to get them to taste premium Sake. Too many consumers have had a bad experience with hot Sake. However, once they taste a good, chilled Sake, their opinion can change. The taste of chilled premium Sake is drastically different from the taste of a cheap, hot Sake. It can be an eye opening experience and is more persuasive than any numeric score or tasting note. Wine stores need more Sake tastings. Restaurants need to offer inexpensive tasting flights of Sake, or hold Sake-paired dinners. The best education is tasting.

Sake doesn't need numeric scores!

Battle Of The Burger 2016: The Winners

Twenty-five Burgers fought each other in a battle royale, seeking to become the Champion, the people's Favorite Burger. Amidst all the carnivore carnage, who reigned supreme? Who created the Best Burger?

This past Wednesday, Boston Magazine hosted the 5th Annual Battle of the Burger, a grand competition and homage to the ever-popular burger. Twenty-five restaurants and chefs competed, each offering their own unique take on the burger. You can check out the list of competitors and see which burgers sounded appealing to you. I attended this event, as a media guest, sampling the many burgers, enjoying the beverage options, and selecting my own list of the Best Burgers.

Once again, the event was held at the Cruiseport Boston and as the weather cooperated, with the rain having stopped, it was pleasant to be able to stand outside by the water, sipping some wine or a cocktail. With all of the grills operating in the main dining area, it did get a little smoky and warm in there so it was great to have an area where you could get some fresh, cool air.

This year, after being the Battle of the Burger Champion for three years in a row, Chef Matt O’Neil of The Blue Ox in Lynn was retired as a competitor. This opened up the competition to a new Champion, making it even more competitive than usual. Who would prevail?

Inside the building, there were a number of booths offering beer, wine cocktails, pickles, ice cream, and more. Grillo's Pickles offered samples of their Italian Dill, Hot Italian Dill and Bread & Butter pickles. Rancatore's Ice Cream presented several different ice creams and sorbet, with a table of toppings, from nuts to chocolate sprinkles, you could pit atop your cup of ice cream. I enjoyed their creamy Coconut Sorbet. Georgetown Cupcakes offered numerous mini-cupcakes as a sweet treat after all the burgers.

In the burger section, there were a couple non-burger options too, from a pizza truck to fresh baguettes. I was impressed with the Late July Snacks Sweet Potato Multigrain Tortilla Chips. They were thick, crunchy and flavorful, with a nice spice to the taste. I'll have to seek these chips out at the local supermarket.

Barton & Gustier presented a few different wines, including a delicious Provence Rosé. Mount Gay Rum was one of the sponsors and you could sample their tasty Blended Rum Punch, which was made with Mount Gay Eclipse, Mount Gay Black Barrel, Pineapple Juice, Orange Juice,  Grenadine and Angostura Bitters.

A Chef Ming Tsai Bobblehead? Chef Tsai is on the National Advisory Board of Family Reach, a charity whose mission is "to provide financial relief and heartfelt support to families fighting cancer. The majority of funds are dedicated to families with a child or young adult who is being treated for a pediatric or other type of cancer." Chef Tsai was present at the Burger Battle, helping to raise money for this worthy charity and a donation could get you one of those bobbleheads.

In the VIP area, the Chef Tsai and Family Reach booth also offered tastes of a Dark & Stormy Granita, made with Mount Gay Rum. This was a refreshing and delicious "slushy" and I wish I could have savored a large glass instead of these tiny paper cups. I'd already been contemplating making some frozen Dark & Stormy cocktails at home, and this solidified my decision.

Back to the Burgers....

This year, there weren't any Veggie Burgers, which might mean that maybe the chefs believe they can't compete on the same field as burgers made from meat. They might taste good but it seems that in a Burger Battle, with a diverse selection of attendees, meat is most likely to reign supreme. Nearly all of the entries were also made with beef patties with two primary exceptions, a ground Andouille Sausage & Beef patty from Burton's Grill/Red Heat Tavern and a Lamb burger from ArtBar. Most of the chefs provided sliders, though a few offered full-size burgers, like Tasty Burger, and others provided you a sliced section of a full-sized burger, like City Streets Restaurant. Some of the chefs also provided small sides with their burgers, such as popcorn, chips and mac n' cheese.

Attendees got to vote for their favorite burger. placing their voting token in their chosen Budweiser box. What makes a burger the Best? There is really no objective standard as it is very much a personal decision, based in part on your own definition of what constitutes a great burger, as well as your own personal preferences. For example, maybe you dislike brioche buns, onions, or mustard, and if a burger possesses any of those elements, it won't rank as your Best.

For myself, I feel that a Champion burger should be something you would savor and want to order on a regular basis. A one-trick pony burger might be exciting for the moment but it won't satisfy in the long run. It wouldn't be something you would order more than once. A champion needs to be able to stand the test of time, to continually deliver a delicious burger each and every time.

To illustrate this point, consider Chef Paul Malvone's, of the Boston Burger Company, Whiskey Tango Foxtrot burger. It is made with 80/20 certified Angus beef with homemade mac n' cheese, pulled pork, onion ring, homemade BBQ sauce, and Grillo's pickles. This is an over-the-top burger, and actually tasted very good, but it's not the type of burger I'd order on a regular basis. It is definitely worthy of a splurge when you are feeling especially decadent. The burger itself gains kudos for being thick, juicy and flavorful.

For myself, I also feel that a Champion burger needs balance! It is a delicate balancing act, to ensure all the different ingredients of the burger, from the bun to the condiments, contribute to the whole rather than become too dominant on their own. The burger itself needs to be the star, and everything else should play a supporting role, with none upstaging the others. My favorite burgers at this event all possessed a nice balance of ingredients.

This year, the attendees voted for Joe's American Bar & Grill to be the Battle of the Burger Champion. The winning entry, from Chef David Forbes, was their Smoking' Granny Burger, a beef burger topped with Nueske’s thick-cut maple-Cajun bacon, aged cheddar, smoked blue cheese, and Granny Smith apple relish, on a brioche bun. I enjoyed this burger, though felt that the tart apple pieces were a little overpowering to the whole. I should also note that they were offering attendees a free bag of swag for anyone who voted for their burger.

My choice for the Battle of the Burger Champion was A&B Burgers, where Chef Kwasi Kwaa offered the Sweet & Salty Cow, a beef burger with fig spread, Leidy's bacon, Burrata cheese, and arugula on a brioche bun. The burger was thick and juicy, and was definitely the star of the sandwich, enhanced by the balance of sweet, salty and creamy elements. At last year's Burger Battle, first tasted their burgers and felt that they would be a strong competitor this year too. During the past year, I've savored a number of burgers at their Beverly restaurant, and their Sweet & Salty is my favorite. If you haven't dined here yet, you need to make the trip to Beverly.

For Second Place, I have to give kudos to Chef Brian Dandro of ArtBar for his Lamb Burger, topped with whipped feta and chimichurri. I love lamb but know it is also a divisive meat, one that people usually either love or hate. There often seems to be little middle ground. Thus, in a competition like this, it is unlikely a lamb burger, no matter how well made, is going to win the popular vote cause of the number of people who dislike lamb. For a lamb lover though, this burger would impress. The burger itself was juicy and flavorful, with that distinctive lamb taste, a pleasing gamey/earthiness, enhanced by the feta and chimichurri which didn't overpower the sandwich. If anything, maybe there could have been a little more whipped feta atop the burger.

For Third Place, kudos go to Chef Shayne Nunes of Saloon with his Saloon Rodeo Burger, made with a USDA prime burger blend, maple smoked cheddar, whiskey BBQ, and crispy shallots on a brioche bun. The whiskey BBQ sauce was flavorful with a mild spicy kick and the crispy shallots added a nice crunchy texture to the burger. It would have been nice to have a couple fingers of whiskey, maybe a spicy Rye, with this burger.

What were your favorite burgers at the Battle?

Battle Of The Burger: This Wednesday

On Wednesday, August 12, Boston Magazine is hosting the 4th Annual Battle of the Burger, a grand competition and homage to the ever-popular burger. Thirty restaurants will compete, each offering their own unique take on the burger and you can see the list of participating restaurants and their creations here. You will get to taste items such as the Sweet & Salty Cow, the Cure, the Saltie Girl Burger, and the Ghost Burger. Participating restaurants range from Fuddruckers to Burger Dive, from Davio's to Tasty Burger.

This special event will be held at the Cruiseport Boston at 1 Black Falcon Avenue. General Admission Tickets, which allow you entrance from 7pm-10pm and to sample all thirty burger, costs $95 and you can purchase tickets online. This event usually sells out so I suggest you buy tickets now or risk not being able to go.

An important aspect of this competition is that you get to vote for your favorite burger and help determine the Burger Battle Champion. Last year's Champion was Chef Matt O’Neil of The Blue Ox in Lynn. Matt has won two prior championships and hopes to win a third time, and has already noted that this will be his last year of competition. Can he win this year with his Sin Burger?

Last year's Runner Up was Chef David Forbes of Joe’s American Bar & Grill. Can he take First Place this year with his Cure Burger? Last year's 2nd Runner Up was Chef Nicholas Dixon of Lincoln Tavern  and he hopes to win it this year with his Lincoln Slider. Or will some other Chef step forward for the win? I wish good luck to all the competitors.

I will be attending this event so hope to see you there.  I am curious as to which Burger I will select as my favorite. What will be your favorite?

2014: Favorite Food-Related Items

What were some of my favorite food-related items of the past year?

Let me continue my collection of lists of my best recommendations and favorites of the past year, 2014. Yesterday, I provided a list of my Favorite Restaurants of 2014 and now I want to address my favorites for other Food-Related Items, from markets to books, from donuts to candy. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more food-related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Food Trade Event: For the fourth year in a row, I have selected the Seafood Expo North America (SENA) as my favorite. It is a massive trade event, a three day event showcasing purveyors of seafood and related vendors. You'll find tons of free seafood samples and learn plenty, from sustainability to cooking. Plus, the New England Food Show is held in the same venue, offering samples of food, drink and even alcohol. The Seafood Show is an engaging event and I wrote twenty posts about the show this year. It also helped that I won the 4th Annual iPura Tweet & Blogfest for my coverage. The Seafood Show is compelling on many levels and I look forward to attending the next SENA in March 2015.

Favorite Food Magazine: For the fourth year in a row, Lucky Peach easily prevails as my favorite. This quarterly magazine is eclectic and irreverent, with fascinating articles, essays, recipes, and more. I eagerly devour each issue when it is released and its quality has remained consistent. It entertains and educates, as well as providing much for reflection. If you love food and are not reading Lucky Peach, then shame on you.

Runner-Up Favorite New Food Magazine: A quarterly magazine, the Modern Farmer is a fascinating look at the connections between us and the foods we eat. Farmers all over the world take center focus, and the articles are informative, thought provoking and and practical. I've read several of their issues so far and it has consistently offered much of value to any food lover. It is a more serious food magazine, but it isn't pretentious. Another must read.

Favorite Food Book: The Tastemakers: Why We're Crazy for Cupcakes but Fed Up with Fondue by David Sax was a thought provoking look at food trends and provided me topics for three Rants: Lazy Food Writers, Eating With Your Ears, and Lazy Chefs, Written in an easy manner, it provides plenty of interesting information, and also makes you think more closely about a variety of food issues. All food lovers, and especially food writers, should check out this book.

Runner-Up Favorite Food Book: The Language of Food, by Dan Jurafsky, explains and expounds upon various food-related words, as well as examining the role of words in everything from menus to restaurant reviews. It is part history and science, psychology and etymology. If you love food, it is an excellent read, one which will intrigue and interest you, as well as make you think of food in different ways. And it too fueled three different posts, Rant: Sex Drugs & Restaurant Reviews, The Origins of Ceviche, Tempura, and Fish & Chips, and Rant: Menu Secrets & Sacrificing Choice.

Favorite Food Contest: An epic Sushi Battle pitted Chef Tim Cushman of O Ya against Chef Hisayoshi Iwa of Sushi Iwa in Japan in three rounds of sushi creation. I was fortunate to be one of the judges for this event which was televised for a Japanese station. Each chef had their own distinctive style, and both created compelling sushi so it was extremely difficult to select a winner. In their own way, both chefs made winning dishes, being true masters of their craft. Once the show airs, I'll try to provide a link so everyone can watch.

Favorite Cheese Shop: When it comes to cheese, the suburbs reign supreme with the Concord Cheese Shop, which commonly stocks 150-200 cheeses, including many local cheeses. The staff is very knowledgeable and passionate about their cheese, and they are always seeking out new cheeses for their stock. Besides all that cheese, they also carry a variety of other gourmet foods as well as wines and beers. It is an excellent destination for many reasons.

Favorite Beef: This year, wine from Uruguay made a major impact on my taste buds, and another Uruguayan product thrilled my palate too, Del Terruño Beef. Free range and grass fed beef, this was a delicious meat, tender and flavorful, with a nice gamey taste. This is a beef for any meat lover, especially those seeking cattle that have been raised well and sustainably. It is available locally and I strongly recommend you find some to enjoy.

Favorite Restaurant Meat Dish: I've long been an advocate of eating rabbit, especially as it is such a nutritious meat. Chef Michael Scelfo has created an exceptional comfort food dish, his Chicken Fried Rabbit at Alden & Harlow. A perfectly crispy coating holds a pate-like mix of rabbit and pork belly, and it is simply decadently delicious. Bursting with flavor, as well as some umami-goodness, it will transform anyone into a rabbit lover.

Favorite Offal Dish: At Ribelle in Brookline, their Sweetbreads dish, with coppa, sage brown bitter and celery root, was sublime, simply superb from the first to the last bite. A great combination of flavors and textures, I almost wanted to order a second dish just to enjoy more of it. This is also a dish that almost any food lover would savor, if they simply tasted it, and didn't worry that it is an organ.

Favorite New Condiment: A group of students from the Harvard Business School created their own version of gochujang, an important Korean condiment, which they have named Korean Summer Sauce. Their sauce is made from red pepper paste, honey, plum extract, sweet rice wine, garlic, sesame oil and soy. I enjoyed the taste of this condiment, its savory flavors, with a mild spiciness, a hint of sweetness, and some umami goodness. It is a versatile sauce, and belongs in your kitchen.

Favorite Unusual Food: This category is a tie between the Insects I ate at Miya's Sushi and the Guinea Pig I enjoyed at Alpamayo. At Miya's, I savored a Cricket Maki roll as well as Nine Spice Sashimi with crispy black soldier fly larvae. Tasty and sustainable, insects are eaten all over the world, though many Americans still shy away from eating them. Guinea Pig is a Peruvian staple, and it does remind me of chicken, with mild white and dark meat. Expand your culinary horizons and try something more unusual for dinner.

Favorite New Seafood: At Miya's Sushi, I enjoyed much more than just the insects, and was also introduced to a new seafood, Cannonball Jellyfish. Rather than a gelatinous texture, it was more springy like a gummy bear, and almost had a crispness to the exterior. It was surprisingly tasty, and is now added to my list of favorite seafoods. Not all jellyfish is the same.

Favorite Restaurant Desserts: Every dessert I have eaten at Besito has been delicious and compelling, from their Pastel de Chocolate to their Tres Leches Cake, from their Pudin de Chocolate to their Churros. They taste homemade and will please any sweet tooth. Many restaurants do one or two desserts well, but it is harder to find a restaurant that does all of their desserts well.

Favorite Chips At the Boston Wine Expo, I sampled Pasta Chips, oven baked crackers made from pasta. There are five different flavors including Alfredo, Marinara, Spicy Tomato Herb, Garlic & Olive Oil, and Sea Salt. I was impressed, and nearly addicted, with these chips, which were thin but sturdy, had appealing flavors and a nice crunch. The Garlic & Oil was one of my favorite flavors, with a strong garlic taste, though I also very much liked the Alfredo, which had a prominent cheese kick. The chips are strong enough for even a thick dip, though I like them just the way they are.

Favorite Chicken Wings: At Red Heat Tavern, their Mesquite Smoked Wings, with a sweet Thai chili sauce, are slow cooked during the day in their unique Josper Oven, and then later crisped up prior to being served. Honestly, these were some of the best wings I've tasted in some time. There was a delightful crispiness to the outer skin, and plenty of tender meat inside. The sweet, and slightly spicy, taste was accompanied by a nice smokiness, all of the flavors blending together harmoniously. I could easily eat these wings by the dozen and they receive my highest recommendation.

Favorite Tofu: Tofu? Yes, I haven't been a fan of tofu in the past but I have been converted, or at least have found a compelling tofu. At Abriya Raku, a Japanese restaurant in Law Vegas, they make their own Tofu, which was smooth and creamy, with a clean taste rather than some of the bland, rubbery tofu I have had elsewhere. Their homemade tofu makes for an excellent palette for a variety of ingredients and tastes, and I would order it again and again.

Favorite Food Issue: Once again, one of the most important, and sometimes controversial, food issues I addressed this year was seafood sustainability. I have tried to cover a variety of issues, seeking to delve behind the science and rhetoric. The importance of this matter cannot be underestimated, but it is sometimes difficult to get to the truth behind the issues. In July, I started posting a new Seafood post on nearly every Tuesday, and will continue to do so through 2015. You can find links to many of my latest Seafood posts here.

Favorite Fake Food Controversy: In this age of social media, when April Fool's Day comes around, it seems everyone is aware of it so it is difficult to get away with a prank. It takes lots of planning and strategy to be able too fool people on this day. This year, I posted a prank, my The Great Purple Debate, which was able to fool some people. It helped that I laid some groundwork earlier in the week, posting some teasers and hypothetical questions. It will be even tougher to get away with another prank in 2015, but I'll try again.

What were some of your favorite food-related items this year?