Boston Wine Expo: Quinta Vale D. Maria, Port & The Douro

"Of all the places where men have planted vineyards the upper Douro is the most improbable."
--Hugh Johnson

At the recent Boston Wine Expo, they offered 35 Seminars, mostly about wine but also a few dealing with topics like whiskey and olive oil. The Seminars are an excellent way to get a more directed wine education at the Expo, and you usually get to taste some compelling wines. This year, as a media guest, I attended one of the seminars, The Wines of the Douro Valley: From Dream to Reality: An Adventure in the Oldest Demarcated Region of the World.

The description of this seminar stated: "Since 1780, the family has been intimately entwined in the region's wine trade. When Cristiano Van Zeller left Quinta do Noval at the end of 1993 it was to pursue his passion for innovation and the development of independent producers in the Douro valley. His goal was to diminish the region's dependence on the production of port, while showing the true potential and diversity of this incredible land. In 1996 he acquired the ancient Quinta Vale D. Maria and immediately went to work restoring this venerable estate. Within two years the estate was receiving critical acclaim for their Douro Red Wine. As of 2006, he took over the reins of the centuries old family business, Van Zeller & Co. Please join Cristiano in tasting through the last decade of Red wines and Ports from Quinta Vale D. Maria along with the rare opportunity to experience two tawny ports bottled 100 years apart: 1970 versus 1870. When did you drink your last 1870?"

You don't often get a chance to taste a Port from 1870 and as a Cavaleiro in the Confraria do Vinho do Porto, I felt it was my duty to investigate and taste. When I entered the room for the seminar, there was a strong and alluring aroma from the intensity of the Tawny Ports. It made you want to start drinking right away, but I had restraint.

The speaker for the seminar was Cristiano Van Zeller, the Chairman of the Federation of Douro Farmers and the Owner of Quinta Vale D. Maria, and he was accompanied by his daughter, Francisca. Christiano was an excellent presenter, knowledgeable, humorous and personable.

The Van Zeller family can trace its history in the wine trade back to 1620, and in 1780 they became officially established as a Port Wine shipper. Cristiano is a 14th generation Van Zeller and he began his wine career working at the family Port company, Quinta do Noval. In 1993, the family sold the Port company and Cristiano moved onto some independent projects. The family of Cristiano's wife, Joana Lemos, had owned a Port estate for about 150 years and in 1996, Cristiano and Joana purchased the estate, Quinta Vale D. Maria, from her family. They had to rebuild the estate, which had fallen into a state of disrepair.

Cristiano began his presentation with some basic information about the Douro region, which he states is a "special place" in northeast Portugal. The Douro is protected from the sea and possesses lots of biodiversity. Grape growing began in the western section, the Baixo Corgo, first and then proceeded east, to the Cima Corgo and finally the Douro Superior. The Douro Superior, which is located near the Spanish border, is tougher to reach as the river isn't as easily navigable and less than 20% of the vineyards in the Douro are located in this region. The Douro region has harsh winters (though not as harsh as Boston) and hot summers. The soil is mainly schist, a slate-like metamorphic rock, that is rich in nutrients and possesses good water retention abilities. 2011 is supposed to have been the greatest vintage in the 21st century.

Quinta Vale D. Maria, which began with about 19 hectares, now encompasses approximately 31 hectares of vineyards, having purchased a few additional vineyards since 1996. In 2003, they bought the CV-Curriculum Vitae vineyard, which includes 6 hectares of vines (with an average age of 80 years) and olive trees, and grow about 20 different grape varieties. In 2004, as a gift to his Francisca for her 18th birthday, they purchased the Vinha da Francisca, about five hectares of 10 year old vines, growing five grapes, Touriga Nacional, Touriga France, Tinta Francisca, Sousao and Rufete. Finally, they acquired the Vinha do Rio, a vineyard that is the closest and lowest to the River Torto that runs through the estate. It encompasses only 2 hectares, growing about 20 grapes with an average age of 100 years.

They engage in organic viticulture, use horse plows and hand harvest all of their grapes. Grape selection is very important to them and they use a second selection on the selecting table. All of their red grapes are first foot-trodden in lagares, and for some the treading is then carried on by robots for another four hours. For their Ports and Single Quinta Douro DOC red wines, full fermentation occurs in the lagares. These wines are true labors of love. They still purchase some grapes though they make a number of single vineyard wines too.

Personally, Cristiano loves the diversity of wine, stating he would "hate to drink the same wine all the time" and that even the "same pleasure all the time gets routine." That is certainly a sentiment I fully support and have often encouraged people to be adventurous, expand their palate and taste all of the vast diversity in the wine industry. Cristiano also mentioned that he is under "no pressure to conform to public trends/tastes." He just tries to produce the best wines he can each year. To Cristiano, "Greatness of wine is how it is perceived at the moment and how it makes you feel." That is probably one of the best definitions of "greatness" in wine I've seen.

We began our tasting with four vintages of the Quinta Vale d. Maria Douro Red, a wine made from a field blend of 40 indigenous grapes, vines averaging about 60 years. Cristiano seeks a balance for the grapes, which is a challenge as each year the grapes are different. This wine is usually aged for 20-22 months in 65%-75% new French oak. The wine has an excellent aging potential, at least twenty years, and it could age longer but they don't have sufficient experience with a longer period. The wine sells for about $70 retail, and is locally distributed by M.S. Walker.

The four vintages we tasted included 2006, 2009, 2011, & 2013, and Cristiano commented that 2006 & 2013 were cooler years. As a general observation, all of these wines, including the oldest, seemed relatively fresh, with lots of life in them. They were all complex and intriguing, with notes of black cherry, blackberry, ripe plum, a hint of eucalyptus, and a strong, spicy backbone. The tannins were restrained though the 2009 and 2013 were more muscular wines. All of these wines would probably be best paired with food, especially beef, wild boar, game meats or other hearty dishes. The 2006 was the clear winner of the four, being more elegant and throughly impressive, the type of "wow" wine which will make you savor each compelling sip.

We then moved onto four Vintage Ports, from 2003, 2007, 2009, & 2014. These Ports are made from a field blend of more than 25 indigenous grapes, from vines aged 25-60 years old. The wines are aged in ancient (more than 100 years old) oak and chestnut wood Port casks, as well as small stainless steel vats, for about 18 months. You should decant these Ports for at least a day before, though the older the vintage, the less you need to decant. Cristiano stated that the 2003 & 2007 vintages should age the longest.

All four of these Ports were excellent, delicious and complex. They too possessed a nice freshness to them, with plenty of primary fruit flavors, both red and black fruits, from cherry to plum. The colors of these ports was rich and dark, each with alluring aromas which will seduce you into sampling them. The 2014 and 2007 were the more powerful of the four, though certainly not overwhelming so, and they also seemed less sweet than the other two vintages. Each vintage had its own unique character so it was fascinating to compare the different vintages. My favorite of the group was the 2007, which was so complex and well balanced, and each sip brought something new to my palate. However, you wouldn't go wrong with any of these Ports.

Finally, we tasted Ports from 1970 and 1870, though neither of these was ever registered as a single vintage wines and will never be sold as such. These are Colheitas, made in a single year and aged for at least seven years in the barrel, though they can often spend much longer in the barrel. Cristiano noted that you should chill old Ports like a white wine. Interestingly, the darker colored of these two Ports was the older, the 1870. Though Ports lose their color over time, there comes a point when that changes, and they actually get darker.

The 1970 Port still had a freshness to it, and was full bodied, with a mild sweetness, plenty of complexity and a lengthy finish. There were interesting flavors of caramel, dried fruit and cedar, with mild herbal accents. As for the 1870 Port, it had a bit of a musty aroma that began to dissipate with time. It was more savory than sweet, still with plenty of complexity and a lingering finish. There were more dried fruit and spice flavors, with notes of herbs, caramel and salted nuts. A fascinating Port which is still very much alive despite it being nearly 150 years old. It was a true pleasure to get to taste this Port and mere words cannot do justice to it.

Let me end on a note of beauty. Francisca wants to be a writer, mentioning that "Port is the greatest poetry in wine." Certainly an intriguing thought. She also put together a compelling short video about the winery, Quinta Vale D. Maria - Unique Vines and Music, which you should watch above. The video shows the fine beauty of the estate as well as Francisca's poetic language. There is nothing more for me to say.

Primizie Thick Cut Crispbreads: Healthy & Tasty Snacks

As I mentioned in my prior post, Boston Wine Expo: Food Finds, I enjoyed the Primizie Thick Cut Crispbreads. Coming in a variety of flavors, they gave away free bags of their crisp breads, plus coupons, at the Expo, although they didn't showcase all of the flavors they made. Primizie also sent me media samples of some of their other flavors. Overall, I continued to be impressed with these crispbreads and would recommend them as a tasty and versatile snack.

Primizie Thick Cut Crispbreads was founded by Mark & Lisa Spedale, and its origins extend back to 2001 when Mark founded Primizie Catering. A trip to Italy would help inspire the idea for the crispbreads, as they sought a way to use leftover bread with hors d'oeuvres. The bread would be grilled, crisped and then sliced into smaller triangles. In 2011, they started selling these crispbreads to retailers and the company has grown since then, now available nationwide.

These crispbreads are intended to be healthy, lacking artificial colors, artificial flavors, and preservatives. They continue to be grilled, crisped and hand-cut, while the seasonings for each variety are mixed into the dough. The only area of their FAQ which doesn't appear to be correct is the section, Minimal Ingredients, which states "All Primizie products are made with fewer than six ingredients." For example, the Ancient Grains and Gouda & Garlic flavors are made with more than six ingredients. It isn't a major issue though as if you consult the ingredients list, it is clear why those ingredients were added and they don't appear to be anything you wouldn't want in such a snack.

The Simply Salted is their basic version, made from only four ingredients including wheat flour, sunflower oil, salt (Sel Gris, French Velvet Grey Sea Salt) and yeast. The "chip" itself is thick and sturdy, able to stand up to any dip without breaking or wilting. You could also stack other ingredients atop it to make your own hors d'oeuvres. All of their flavored crispbreads are equally as thick and sturdy, which is an advantage. The Simply Salted has a mild, buttery taste, enhanced by the salt, and make for a nice snack on their own, though the addition of some salsa or cheese dip works well too.

The Gouda & Garlic, made with Smoked Dutch Gouda cheese and roasted garlic, adds more flavor to the basic crispbread, with plenty of smoky cheese flavors and lots of garlic. There is a intriguing tang to the flavor which elevates these snacks. I really enjoyed these on their own, though they too would work with plenty of dips.

The Applewood Smoked Cheddar brings a different cheese flavor to the crispbreads, though there is still that smoky edge. Maybe my favorite flavor was the Ancient Sprouted Grains, made with organic Amaranth, Quinoa, and Sorghum plus poppy seeds, caraway seeds, and organic molasses. I loved the rich nuttiness of these crispbreads, a satisfying blend of flavors which were perfect on their own, though topped with cheese they were also excellent. As healthy as these crispbreads are, they still possess a compelling taste which will appeal to anyone.

Their crispbreads get even healthier, with the Green Harvest (made with Kale and Spinach) and the Rustic Beets (made with beets). These aren't flavors that usually attract me, though the crispbreads actually didn't totally turn me off. And those who like those flavors really enjoyed these crispbreads.

You'll also find Primizie in other flavors, including Italian Herb, Chile & Lime, and Dolce Caramel. If you're looking for a new snack to try, one that is healthy but still tasty, then pick up a bag or two of Primizie Thick Cut Crispbreads.

Boston Wine Expo: Wines of Georgia (Part 3)

“That was the end of life, but the qvevri is the beginning of life for wine,” he continued. “It is the womb.”
--For the Love of Wine: My Odyssey through the World's Most Ancient Wine Culture by Alice Feiring

Continuing to relate my recent experiences with Georgian wines, I'm providing more reviews of some of the 60 Georgian wines I tasted at the recent Boston Wine Expo. And I'm also going to provide additional history and background on the region of Georgia and its wines, to give better context to these wines.

It is impossible to understand Georgian wine without knowing something about qvevri (or kvevri), giant earthenware vessels which may be used to ferment and age wine. Also known as churi in Western Georgia, use of these vessels extends back thousands of years, with proto-qvevri vessels reaching back to the Neolithic era. I'm going to provide some basic information about qvevri, but please note that this is a much more expansive subject.

Other synonyms for Georgian qvevri, or earthenware vessels of different shapes and sizes, include: dergi, lagvini, lagvani, lagvinari, kvibari, kubari, lakhuti, chasavali, khalani, and kotso. Other countries had their own earthenware wine vessels, from the Greek pithos to the Roman dolium, or other vessels such as amphorae, tinaja and giara. However, many of those other vessels were used more for storage and transport rather than fermentation and maturation.

Qvevri production is, in many respects, a dying art, though there are efforts to ensure its continuation. Historically, traditional qvevri-producing areas includes the villages of Atsana in Guria; Makatubani, Shrosha, Tq'emlovana and Chkhiroula in Imereti; and Vardisubani in Kakheti. The production techniques were passed down for generations through families. Qvevri are made from baked clay, using the built-coil method, and red clay is the most common though some claim that black clay, from Western Georgia is the best, though  there may not be anyone currently producing qvevri from black clay.

Selecting the clay for qvevri is important as the clay needs to be free of impurities, not too porous, and possess the proper mix of mineral. Once the qvevri has been properly fired, the inside is lined with propolis, also known as bee glue, which is a combination of beeswax, saliva and secretions from botanical sources.

Once grapes have been crushed, the juice, along with the skins, seeds and stems, are placed into a qvevri, which is buried underground, helping to keep the wine cool, stable and safe. This natural temperature control helps to make the fermentation proceed well and without incident. In addition, the clay helps with micro-oxygenation, also providing some nutrition to the wine. The extended skin contact in the qvevri will commonly darken the wine, plus qvevri wines tend to be more tannic, including the whites.

Not all Georgian wineries use qvevri, and some wineries only use them for some of their wines, but its use seems to be expanding. It is a link to their historic past, and the wines can be delicious and unique, interesting and compelling. There is also a push for the use of qvevri in making more natural wines. Amphora use is expanding throughout the wine industry across the world, but the Georgian qvevri still retains its own uniqueness. In 2013, the United Nations even added qvevri to their UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list.

"Tradition says that the Georgians have always lived under threat; they must be sober enough to defend themselves at any time."
--Vintage: The Story of Wine by Hugh Johnson

All of the wines I'm reviewing in this post are part of the Corus Imports portfolio. Corus, which was founded in 2006 and is located in Connecticut, is an importer and distributor of wines and spirits, including wines from Georgia and France, Georgian Chacha, Georgian Brandy, and Russian & Canadian Vodka.

The Batono Winery, founded in 2013, has vineyards in the micro-zones of Sagarejo (in Kakheti), Napareuli (in Kakheti), and Ambrolauri (in Racha-Lechkhumi & Kvemo Svaneti). Their winery is located near Sagarejo vineyards, and their name, Batono, means "lord" and is a form of polite address.

The 2015 Batono Chinuri ($12) was interesting and delicious, with notes of ripe pear and melon, accompanied by some herbal accents. Easy drinking, but with some complexity, good acidity, and a nice texture. Excellent value wine. The 2015 Batono Qvevruli Saperavi ($20), which is made with both qvevri, and oak, was easy drinking, with bright red cherry, raspberry and plum flavors, hints of spice, and a touch of vanilla. The 2015 Batono Qvevruli Tetri ($20), which is made with both qvevri, and oak, is a blend of 40% Kisi, 40% Mtsvane and 20% Rkatsiteli grapes. This was a fascinating and delicious wines with a unique melange of spice, dried fruit, herbal accents and a touch of eucalyptus. Each sip brings a new flavor combination to your palate and this is a wine to savor and enjoy over time. Highly recommended and a very good value.

The Alapiani Marani has made wine for over 20 years, but they only formed a company and began bottling wine in 2011. They have vineyards in the regions of Kartli and Kakheti.

The 2015 Alapiani Rkatsiteli ($20), fermented in qvevri, was aromatic and spicy, reminding me in some ways of a Gewürztraminer. There were also dried fruit flavors, with a mineral backbone, and some white pepper on the finish. Very interesting and tasty wine. The 2016 Alapiani Tavkveri ($25), made from a grape usually used for Rosé wines and fermented in qvevri, was crisp, dry and light bodied, with pleasing cherry and raspberry flavors with herbal accents. An elegant and easy drinking red wine.

I was thoroughly impressed with the 2015 Alapiani Shavkapito ($25), produced from the Shavkapito grape which is new to me and appears to be rare even in Georgia. Its name means "vine with a black cane" and is said to be terroir-reflective. The grapes were sourced from a vineyard in the Okami village of the Shida Kartli region and the wine was fermented and aged in qvevri. With an alluring aroma of black fruit and herbs, the wine presented with a fascinating melange of flavors, including ripe plum, blackberry and black cherry, along with herbal accents, a smoky note, and a touch of spice. Lots of complexity, smooth tannins and a lengthy, pleasing finish. Highly recommended.

The Telavi Wine Cellar, founded in 1915, is located just outside the city of Telavi, in the Alazani Vallet of Kakheti. Some of their vineyards extend back hundreds of years, such as their Kondoli vineyards which were mentioned as far back as 1742. The winery has about 240 hectares of Kondoli vineyards, mostly planted with indigenous varietals though they grow a few international ones as well. They also have vineyards on the left bank of the Alazani River, in the Kindzmarauli area, and one in the Napareuli area. Telavi has a few different labels, including Marani and Satrapezo.

The NV Marani Sparkling White Brut ($11) is dry and lightly effervescent, with bright peach, citrus and almond notes, and a hint of toast. A tasty and easy drinking bubbly, with plenty of complexity for this excellent value wine. The 2015 Marani Kondoli Mtsvane-Kisi ($14) is fresh, crisp and dry, with pleasing flavors of peach and tropical fruits, enhanced by some floral notes and spice accents. This seems very much like a summer wine, and while drinking it, it will make you think of a tropical island.

The 2013 Satrapezo Mtsvane ($30) was fermented for 5 months in qvevri and then spent 10 months aging in new French oak. It was crisp, dry and aromatic, like Gewürztraminer, with some tropical fruit flavors, a buttery texture, and spices notes.

The Wine Man is a family-owned winery, founded by Alexandre I. Jorjadze in 1998, and his family has a history of winemaking.

The 2014 Wine Man Tsinandali ($10), a blend of 85% Rkatsiteli and 15% Mtsvane, which is fermented in stainless steel. It is fresh and crisp, with tasty apple, pear, and lemon flavors, with mild hints of spice and vanilla. An easy drinking and tasty wine at a very good price point. The 2015 Wine Man Saperavi ($11) is also easy-drinking, with tasty red fruit flavors, low tannins, and a smooth finish. Another value wine.

The 2010 Wine Man Ikhalto ($12) is a blend of 50% Saperavi and 50% Cabernet Franc, one of the few Georgian wines I tasted with an international grape. The wine was fermented in stainless steel and aged for 6 months in old oak. With a tasty blend of cherry and black cherry, plum and raspberry, the wine also had peppery notes, restrained tannins, and a full body. The finish was long and pleasing, this would be a fine wine with barbecue or a steak. The 2014 Wine Man Mukuzani Saperavi ($12) also spent 6 months in oak, and was delicious, with ripe red and fruit fruit flavors, mild spices, and a hint of vanilla.

Which Georgian wines did you enjoy at the Boston Wine Expo?

Boston Wine Expo: Wines of Georgia (Part 2)

"They clung to their ghvino (wine) with such a passion you’d think it was their blood."
For the Love of Wine: My Odyssey through the World's Most Ancient Wine Culture by Alice Feiring

Continuing to relate my recent experiences with Georgian wines, I'm providing more reviews of some of the 60 Georgian wines I tasted at the recent Boston Wine Expo. And I'm also going to provide additional history and background on the region of Georgia and its wines, to give better context to these wines.

The name "Georgia" may derive from Persian and Turkish versions of the name George, respectively Gorj and Gurju, and which the Russians later named Gruzia. It is possible that sometime during the Middle Ages, the country became known to English speakers as Georgia rather than Gruzia. Georgians though refer to their country as Sakartvelo ("the land of the Kartvelians") and themselves as Kartveli. This refers back to the ancient kingdom of Kartli, in Eastern Georgia, which the ancient Greeks and Romans called Iberia.

The capital city of Georgia is Tbilisi, which was founded in the 5th century, and the legend of its creation claims that King Vakhtang Gorgaslani, while on a hunt near the Kura River, killed a pheasant. When he went to find the bird he had slain, he found that it had fallen into a hot spring and had been cooked by the waters. The King felt that it was a fortuitous location, and he chose to found a city there, calling it Tbilis-kalaki, the Warm City.

The ancient people of Georgia worshipped Aguna, a deity of viticulture and wine-making, which some people have compared to Bacchus/Dionysus. In parts of Georgia, Aguna was known by other names such as Aguna-Angura in Racha-Lechkhumi and Nunua, Jujelia in Samegrelo. Harvest time would see rituals and animal sacrifices to this deity and theatrical performances of these ancient rituals can still be seen in modern-day Georgia.

Christianity came early to Georgia, with King Mirian III, in 337 A.D. declaring it to be the state religion. Before this time, one of the first missionaries who traveled to Georgia to spread Christianity was Saint Nino, who allegedly came to the country carrying a cross tied with dried grape vines, creating a long lasting link between wine and the church.

"Zedashe is what the Georgians call sacramental wine. Where church wine is historically awful, in Georgia it was supposed to be the purest and the highest quality. In most traditional wineries there was always one qvevri dedicated to sacramental wine and intended for donation to churches, as well as for use during holidays."
--For the Love of Wine: My Odyssey through the World's Most Ancient Wine Culture by Alice Feiring

The Shilda Winery is located in the village of Shilda in the Kakheti region and its mission is to revive endangered Georgian grape varieties. They also produce five kinds of Georgian brandy. The beautiful wine labels have artwork from a famous Georgian artist, David Kakabadze.

The 2015 Shilda Manavi Mtsvane was fresh, dry and crisp, with pleasing notes of pear and spice, with citrus accents. Easy drinking and tasty.  The 2015 Shilda Kisi was another delicious white wine,  with more juicy peach notes, and intriguing spice accents. Easy drinking, with a moderately long finish, there is a hint of the exotic which helps to elevate this wine. The 2015 Shilda Mukuzani Saperavi, which is aged in oak for about a year, possessed an alluring aroma of black fruit and spice. On the palate, the ripe plum and blackberry flavors were prominent, assisted by a spicy backbone and hints of vanilla. Full bodied, but with restrained tannins, this is a wine you want with meat.

Kartuli Vazi Winery produces wine from both Racha-Lechhumi in Western Georgia and Kakheti in Eastern Georgia. They combine ancient traditions with modern technology. The 2013 Kartuli Vazi Tsinandali is a blend of Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane, and is easy drinking with tasty pear and mild spice notes. The 2016 Kartuli Vazi Saperavi, with a pleasing fruity aroma, is also easy drinking with fresh red fruit flavors and a hint of licorice. The 2013 Kartuli Vazi Mukuzani Saperavi, which spent about 6 months in used oak, is a bigger wine, though still with low tannins, and ripe flavors of plum and black cherry, with hints of spice. Delicious, it would be an excellent pizza and burger wine.

Kakhuri Gvinis Marani, which means Kakhetian Wine Cellar, was founded about 9 years ago and owns vineyards in the Kakheti region. The winery is located in the town of Gurjanni, on the road to their vineyards in the Alazani Valley.

The 2009 Tsinandali, a blend of Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane, was matured in oak yet it remains fresh and elegant with alluring aromatics. On the palate, there are tasty peach and pear flavors, with spice accents, and this wine would pair well with seafood. An intriguing complexity, a lengthy finish and soft tannins. Highly recommended. The 2014 Manavi is also a blend of Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane, though with a higher proportion of Mtsvane. It was more aromatic, with stronger herbal notes on the palate, along with apple and pear flavors. It wasn't as complex, but was easy drinking and pleasant.

The 2013 Saperavi was also an easy drinking wine, with predominant red and black fruit, mild tannins, and a hint of smoke on the finish. A fine pizza and burger wine. On the other hand, the 2009 Mukuzani, which spent three years in oak, was a much more complex wine, elegant and impressive. It was silky smooth, with notes of ripe plum, black berry, mild spice, and a touch of vanilla. It has an exotic accent to it, a lingering finish, and is definitely a wine to slowly savor. Highly recommended.

The Tbilvino Winery, founded in 1962, is one of the largest wine producers in Georgia as well as the largest exporter. It operates two wineries, under a couple different brands, including Georgian Valley wine. Their history extends back to the Soviet era, when the largest wine factory was launched, eventually producing 90% of the wine in Georgia. When Georgia attained independence, the company became independent, and 1999 was their first harvest as a new company.

The 2015 Tbilvino Rkatsiteli was fresh and crisp, with tasty stone fruit flavors, accented by mild spice notes. An easy drinking white, good for seafood or just enjoying during the summer. The 2014 Tbilvino Qvevri Rkatsiteli offered a more unique taste, with more prominent spice and herbal notes, and mild stone fruit flavors. It was still crisp and dry, but offers more complexity and would pair well with roast chicken and other poultry dishes.

The 2015 Tbilvino Saperavi was fresh and fruity, an easy drinking wine with tasty red fruit flavors and a bit of spice and vanilla. A burger and pizza wine.  In comparison, the 2014 Tbilvino Saperavi Special Release, which was aged in oak for ten months, is a more impressive wine. With a nice depth of flavor, the wine presents with flavors of black cherry and plum, mild spice notes, and a hint of smoke. The tannins are well restrained, the finish is long and satisfying, and there is so much going on in this wine. You'll want to pair this wine with a hearty meat dish, such as a grilled steak, though you could also drink it on its own, enjoying every supple sip. Highly recommended.

The Qimerioni Winery, which was founded in 2011, was named after an artistic café that opened in Tbilisi back in 1919 by the group of acclaimed Georgian poets and artists. They create wines using indigenous grapes, most from vineyards in the village of Chumlakhi in the Gurjaani District of the Kakheti region. They also produce two types of chacha, a Georgian brandy.

The 2012 Qimerioni Tsinandali, a blend of Rkatisteli and Mtsvane, is fresh, crisp and dry, with apple and pear notes, and hints of spice. Easy drinking and tasty. The 2013 Qimerioni Qvevri Gora Saperavi is also easy drinking, but with rich black fruit flavors, plenty of spice, and a mild earthy undertone. Drink it with a steak or ribs. The 2012 Qimerioni Mukuzani is more complex, elegant and intriguing, with silky black fruit flavors, a spicy backbone, and a lengthy finish.

Boston Wine Expo: Wines of Georgia (Part 1)

"The Georgian custom is to drain the wine bowl, then throw away the last drops. They are the number of your enemies. It is important not to have too many, but without any how can you be a real man?”
--Vintage: The Story of Wine by Hugh Johnson

Continuing to relate my experiences with Georgian wines, I'm now going to start providing reviews for some of the approximately 60 Georgian wines I tasted at the recent Boston Wine Expo. And I'm also going to provide more history and background on the region of Georgia and its wines, to give better context to these wines.

Overall, I enjoyed many of the Georgian wines I tasted, especially those made with qvevri. Most of the white wines were made with the Rkatsiteli grape, though there were a significant number of whites made with Mtsvane and Kisi grapes too. As for red wines, nearly all of them were made from the Saperavi grape. Fortunately, I tasted a couple indigenous grapes which were new to me, such as Takveri and Shavkapito. There were a handful of Sparkling Wines and most of the producers had a Kindzmarauli wine to offer.

Kindzmarauli, an appellation of origin located in the Kvareli region of Khaketi, produces a semi-sweet wine made from Saperavi. During the Expo, I passed on most of the Kindzmarauli, preferring to taste primarily the dry wines, but I should note that each producer seemed very proud of Kindzmarauli and wanted me to taste them. I'm sure I'll have another opportunity to widen my experiences with this wine type.

I tasted plenty of delicious, easy-drinking wines, both whites and reds, which were also very good values considering their low price points. There were also some impressive, higher-end wines, which were complex and compelling, showing the potential of their indigenous grapes. These were definitely wines that would pair well with a wide variety of foods, and some of the wines would be perfectly fine on their own (though Georgians tend to only drink wine with food). I'm sure at least a few of these wines will end up on my year-end Top Ten Wine lists.

I'm sorry that I didn't have the time to check out all of the Georgian wine producers at the Expo and I'm sure I missed out on some very good wines. Thus, the exclusion of those producers in my reviews should not be indicative that I didn't care for their wines. I just didn't have sufficient time to taste everything, especially with so many Georgian wine producers present at the Expo. If you got to taste wines from these omitted producers, I'd love to hear your thoughts on their wines.

The country of Georgia is located in the Southern Caucasus, which forms the northern border of the country. The Caucasus Mountains, which span from the Black Sea to the Caspian Sea, form the border of Eastern Europe and Western Asia, and have the highest mountain in Europe, Mount Elbrus, which is over 2700 feet higher than Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in the Alps. The Likhi Range, which is part of the Caucasus Mountains, roughly divides the country in into an eastern and western half. In ancient times, the eastern section was known as Iberia while the western half was known as Colchis.

To the ancient Greeks, the Caucasus mountains were the far edge of the world and the Romans agreed, considering it to be the end of all the earth. Herodotus wrote that the Caucasus was “the longest and loftiest of all mountain ranges” while Virgil wrote that “And they knew that they were come to Caucasus, at the end of all the earth: Caucasus the highest of all mountains, the father of the rivers of the East."

The region of Georgia also figured into a number of ancient Greek myths. First, you may recall the tale of the Titan Prometheus who stole fire from the gods and gave it to humanity. Though Prometheus succeeded, he was later caught by the gods who were angry at his crime. As punishment, Prometheus was taken to the region of Colchis, chained to a mountain in the Caucasus, where an eagle would tear his liver out of his chest each day. Each evening, the liver regenerated so the immortal Prometheus had to suffer day after day

Second, the city of Colchis, ruled by King Aeëtes, was supposed to be incredibly wealthy and the home of the legendary Golden Fleece. The hero Jason and the Argonauts sailed to Colchis, to obtain the Golden Fleece and eventually found it in a sacred grove. The King would only give the Fleece to Jason if he could perform three difficult tasks. Jason, aided by Medea, the king's daughter, completed all the tasks, including defeating the dragon which guarded the Fleece. Jason seized the Fleece and fled out of Colchis with Medea. Finally, Colchis is also alleged to be one of the possible homelands for the Amazons, a society of warrior women.

"According to historian David Turashvili in his book His Majesty Georgian Wine, customarily Georgians would first ask about their neighbors’ vines and only then ask about their families."
--For the Love of Wine: My Odyssey through the World's Most Ancient Wine Culture by Alice Feiring

The Artevani Winery, located in the village of Gremi in the Kakheti region, is a small, organic producer, and maybe the first organic Georgian producer to import into the U.S. through Interbalt Products Corp. Artevani is a family-owned winery, seeking to produce more natural wines, reflective of terroir, and combining ancient traditions with modern technology. They commonly use qvevri for fermentation and sometimes aging as well.

This winery produced my #2 Top Favorite Wine of the Boston Wine Expo, their 2011 Artevani Qvevri Aged Rkatsiteli ($30-$35). The Rkatsiteli is from seventy-year old vines, and it is fermented in qvevri for about 24 days and then aged in qvevri for another 8-12 months. With a rich amber color, the wine presented with a fascinating aroma, an alluring mix of herbs, spices, and dried fruits. On the palate, I found a complex and intriguing melange of flavors and it was actually difficult to describe everything happening in my mouth. It was full bodied, with nice acidity, and a lengthy and satisfying finish. This is the type of wine you slowly savor, enjoying the new and surprising flavors you encounter with each sip. Highly recommended.

The 2015 Artevani Saperavi ($24) was also an excellent wine, produced from an old recipe and which sees no oak. With a dark red color, it presented with a fruity aroma, and a rich palate of red fruits with a hint of earthiness. It was smooth, with low tannins, good acidity, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. A wine that would pair well with food, from pizza to burgers. The 2015 Artevani Kindamazruli Saperavi was said to be more medium-sweet, though I felt it was more mildly sweet, balanced by nice acidity, with plenty of ripe notes of red and black fruits.

The Gozauri Winery, located in the micro-zone of Kindzmarauli in the Kakheti region, was founded in 2004 by winemaker Levan Japaridze. The winery derived its name from the gozauri, an ancient large clay vessel for wine storage. They were commonly used in the 18th century and Kakheti was where they were manufactured. Their 2015 Gozauri Saperavi, produced in a qvevri, was light bodied with bright cherry and strawberry flavors, accented by an earthy element and a hint of minerality. It possessed good acidity, low tannins and a moderately long and pleasing finish.

The Bagrationi 1882 winery, founded in 1937, extends back to the era of Georgian Prince Ivane Bagrationi-Mukhraneli, around 1882, who began producing sparkling wine using the classic bottle fermentation method. Currently, the winery produces sparkling wines in both the Methodé Champenoise and Method Charmat methods. They are the primary producer in Georgia, occupying 80% of the domestic market. Their 200 hectares of vineyards are in the best winegrowing regions such as Kartli, Imereti and Kakheti. I first tasted and enjoyed a couple of their sparkling wines six years ago, and you can read my previous review.

The Bagrationi 1882 Brut Rosé is made from 100% Tavkveri, and it is dry and crisp, with delicious red berry flavors and refreshing bubbles. It goes down so easy and would be an excellent aperitif, or an accompaniment with food. The Bagrationi 1882 Rouge ($16.99) is a semi-sweet blend, made by the Charmat method, of Saperavi, Chinebuli, Mtsvane and Tsitska. It has more body than the Rosé with brighter cherry and raspberry flavors. It is also dry and crisp, with fine bubbles, and an herbal hint, especially on the finish,

Vaziani Company, founded in 1982, owns about 120 hectares of vineyards and built a new winery in 2012 in Telavi, in the Kakheti region. They also purchase some grapes from local farmers. They use qvevri in the production of many, if not all, of their wines.

The 2015 Makashvili Mtsvane, produced in qvevri, was a beautiful amber color with an intriguing aroma, and a compelling taste with plenty of herbal and spice notes, with citrus accents. More full bodied, with some mild tannins, and a pleasing finish. The 2015 Makashvili Kisi, also made in qvevri, was very aromatic, with intense herbal and floral notes, and had an intriguing taste with stone fruit flavors and a hint of almonds. Good acidity, a lengthy finish and quite delicious.

The 2015 Makashvili Saperavi, also produced in qvevri, had an alluring nose of black fruit and spice, and on the palate, it was smooth, with restrained tannins, and a complex melange of flavors including black fruits, mild spice and an herbal accent. Delicious, with a lengthy finish, this would be an excellent accompaniment to a juicy steak. Highly recommended.

Boston Wine Expo: Giorgi Samanisvili & Wines of Georgia

“In no other country do the inhabitants drink so much, or such excellent wine.”
--Jean-Baptiste Chardin (aka Sir John Chardin), referring to the country of Georgia in his ten-volume The Travels of Sir John Chardin, published in 1786.

I first sampled a Georgian wine about nine years ago though I've had the opportunity to taste many other Georgian wines during the last few years. Last year, four Georgian wines were on my Top Ten Wine lists, including the 2012 Jakeli Saperavi, 2013 Orgo Kisi, 2014 Orgo Rkatsiteli, and the 2013 Georgian Valleys Saperavi. You should also check out my prior article, Drink More Georgian Wine!, for additional background on Georgian wines and links to my other Georgian wine posts. As I previously wrote, "Georgia may be the oldest wine region in the world but it also has a bright future. We just need to educate more consumers about the reasons why they should be drinking Georgian wine."

At the recent Boston Wine Expo, consumers had plenty of opportunity to taste and learn about Georgian wines as there were approximately 18 producers at the event. Georgia certainly made a concerted effort to raise their presence in the Boston area. Prior to the Expo, I had strongly recommended, in my post What You Should Taste, that consumers should check out the various tables of Georgian wine. I followed my own advice, expanding my experiences with Georgian wines, and sampled about 60 different wines. I found plenty of interest and will be reviewing my favorites in three additional posts this week.

I also had the opportunity to speak with Giorgi Samanisvili, the head of the National Wine Agency of Georgia. Giorgi is an enologist and has worked in the Georgian wine industry for the past twenty years. In his current position, he is primarily responsible for two areas, quality control and the promotion of Georgian wine. Giorgi was personable and knowledgeable, and it was very clear that he loves wine. It was a pleasure to speak with him about Georgian wine.

Where is the birthplace of wine? That is an issue of dispute, though there is some agreement that the region around the Caucasus Mountains is likely the site for the oldest known Vitis vinifera, the Eurasian wild grape vine. The country of Georgia is one of the primary claimants for being the birthplace of wine, based on some strong archaeological evidence. On a dig in Kvemo Kartli, in the Marneuli Valley of Georgia, a clay jar, with stylized designs of grape bunches, was found. Scientific analysis dated this clay jar to around 6000 BCE, and it was found to contain cultivated grape seeds. The jar is now displayed in the Georgian National Museum in Tbilisi.

This is why Georgi stated that they often promote Georgian wine as possessing "8000 vintages of history." This great sense of history is a compelling reason to enjoy Georgian wine. You can enjoy grapes that have existed for thousands of years, and might have once been enjoyed by ancient Greeks and Romans. 98% of their grapes are indigenous, over 500 different types, and there isn't a huge push to plant international grapes in their vineyards. In the modern Georgian wine industry, there is a push by many producers to reach back to their historic past, to combine ancient traditions with new technology.

Under Soviet control, the wine industry suffered, such as the loss of many medium-sized producers as well as a number of vineyards. That is changing now, with new vineyards being planted and medium-sized wineries starting to return. Giorgi stated that in many respects, the Georgian wine industry is at a beginning, a developing industry that is striving for its vinous future. A number of other wine regions have seen this same cycle, recovering after rough times, like South Africa and apartheid. From what I have seen, the Georgian wine industry seems poised to continue its upward momentum and its wines are more than worthy of your attention.

In 2016, Georgia exported about 50 Million bottles of wine, about 38% more than they exported in 2015. Their top three export markets include Russia (which imports just over half of that amount), the Ukraine (which imports about 12%), and China (which imports about 10%), with Kazakhstan and Poland taking the next two spots. Exports to the U.S. are very low, only about 24,500 cases, though they increased by 19% in the past year and Giorgi is hopeful this year will also see double digit growth. Right now, the most important markets in the U.S. are Washington, D.C., New York City and Los Angeles. You might have difficulty finding Georgian wines in your market but you should ask your wine shops to carry some.

"Although commercial production of wine is significant in Kakheti, almost every village family has its own specialty, made with grapes lovingly cared for and with an age-old method that includes seeds, skins, and stems with the juice as it ferments. Not only does it yield a full-bodied wine with a fine bouquet and hue, believed to be full of vitamins and good for the health, but is touted as a primary reason for the Georgians' longevity."
--Cuisines of the Caucasus Mountains: Recipes, Drinks, and Lore from Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Russia by Kay Shaw Nelson

Why should more Americans drink Georgian wine? Giorgi believes that educated and open consumers can be convinced to try Georgian wines. They offer something different to consumers, a new experience for wine lovers. Georgia may be the oldest wine producing region in the world and that 8000 years of experience is compelling. In addition, with over 500 indigenous grapes, you can find so much diversity in their wines. Combine that with all of the Georgian wine traditions and techniques, such as the famed qvevri, and the story of their wine is fascinating.

The more I learn about Georgia, the more I understand how integral wine is to their history, culture, community and everyday lives. Throughout history, many Georgians made their own wine at home, and numerous Georgians still do so. They helped to preserve grape vines when the Soviets seized control and tore up many vineyards. Giorgi told me that Georgians "care about wine always," as wine is viewed as non-confrontational, and is often seen as more important than politics. Wine unifies rather than divides. It brings together family, friends, and strangers. And in these divisive times in our  country, we should embrace something which might help unify us.

At Georgian supras, their legendary feasts, they drink plenty of wine, often toasting throughout the evening. Such toasting is always positive, contributing to the belief than wine unifies rather than divides. Though they might drink plenty of wine, it is done over a lengthy period of time, so they can avoid drunkenness. In addition, Georgians always drink wine with food, helping to absorb the alcohol and hinder intoxication.

What most touched me though during my conversation was when Giorgi said, "We drink wine to share emotion." Such a simple but compelling concept, indicative of the importance of wine to Georgian society. It is truly the glue that binds the people together, that helps to form closer bonds with each other. Rather than hide their emotions, they want to share them with others, using wine as a means to do so. They don't use wine as a means to intoxication. We could take a lesson from the Georgians and rethink our views on wine, and try to make wine more about sharing our emotions with others.

I strongly encourage you to explore Georgian wines, to learn more about their fascinating history, and to emulate the Georgian outlook on wine.

Boston Wine Expo: South Africa

At this year's Boston Wine Expo, South Africa had a stronger presence than the previous year so I needed to check out some of the new wines that were being showcased. I've enjoyed South African wines for many years, from Chenin Blanc to Pinotage, and I continue to find fascinating and delicious wines from this country. For example, the Swartland is a region that recently has been garnering much praise for its innovative new wine makers. And at the Expo, I found a few fascinating wines from Swartland, as well as some other interesting South African wines.

Meridian Prime, an importer of South African wines, was founded in 2011 by Ross Toombs, a native of South Africa. They currently have an portfolio of about 15 producers, from 9 wine regions, with an additional four or five new producers to be launched later this year. At the Expo, I spoke with Sam Timberg, the Managing Director, asking him to show me some of the most intriguing wines they were sampling at the Expo.

The Survivor Wines are produced in the Swartland and has an intriguing origin story. It is said that a truck filled with Nguni cattle, the traditional livestock of the Zulu people, drove by their vineyard. One of the cows leapt from the truck, survived, and escaped into the vineyard. The cow thrived, producing offspring, and the winery decided to call its wines "Survivor," in homage to that cow. Their website also states: "Because she embodies the free spirit of the Swartland, these wines pay tribute to our noble Nguni cow, SURVIVOR."

The 2016 Survivor Chenin Blanc ($18.99) is basically a barrel-fermented wine, with 70% of it undergoing barrel-fermentation infers fill, untoasted Sylvain French oak. Then the wine was aged in the barrel for four months before bottling. It was aromatic and delicious, with a nice depth of flavor, including tastes of pear and citrus with some hints of minerality. It has a mild creaminess to its texture, a nice balance, and a pleasing finish. An excellent value for this complexity and quality.

The 2015 Survivor Pinotage ($18-$20) was aged in 95% French and 5% American oak for about 18 months. Pinotage can be a divisive grape but I've always been a fan, and this example was impressive. I found it to be smoky and spicy, with deep flavors of plum and black cherry, with hints of vanilla, spice and bacon. The tannins were well integrated, it had a lengthy finish, and would be an excellent accompaniment with lamb, steak, or other roasted meats. Highly recommended.

Black Elephant Vintners, founded in January 2013, is a new winery in the Franschhoek Valley, in the Western Cape region. Their 2016 Two Dogs, a Peacock and a Horse Sauvignon Blanc is made with the addition of 5% barrel-fermented old vine Semillon. The Sauvignon Blanc was sourced from seven different vineyards, and the grapes of each vineyard are vinified separately. The wine remains on the lees for about three months and it sees no oak aging. I found the wine to possess a compelling aroma, lots of exotic fruit and lemon notes, and on the palate, it was fresh, crisp and bright. A nice melange of balanced fruity flavors, from grapefruit to pear, lychee to lemon. There are some mineral notes too amidst the complex flavors. One of the better Sauvignon Blancs I've tasted in some time. Highly recommended.

The Eikendal Winery, founded in 1981 by the Saager family, is located on a 76 hectare estate in Stellenboscch, and its name "Eikendal" means "Oak Valley" in Afrikaans. Their 2015 Eikendal Chardonnay ($18-$20) is produced from grapes from 3 different vineyards, with wild fermentation  and spend time in untoasted Burgundian oak barrels. This is an impressive Chardonnay, being fresh, crisp and complex, an elegant wine with alluring flavors of apple, citrus, and pear, an underlying minerality, and a whisper of spice. The finish lingers and lingers, and pleases every moment. This wine drinks like a Chardonnay at twice the price and is highly recommended.

The 2014 Eikendal Charisma ($20-$25) is a unique blend of 61% Shiraz, 27% Petit Verdot, and 12% Sangiovese, which was aged for 15 months in oak. This was a muscular wine, with plenty of power though its tannins are restrained yet it still yearns for a thick steak or roast lamb. It is spicy, with ripe flavors of plum and black cherry, and hints of violet flowers, and an intriguing savory, almost olive, aspect. Nice complexity, a lengthy finish, and a nice uniqueness to its taste.

Blue Crane Imports is a Chicago importer that specializes in South African wines. The blue crane, also known as the Stanley crane and the paradise crane, is the national bird of South Africa.

Their 2015 Mount Abora Saffraan Cinsaut is produced from a Swartland winery that is seeking to bring back the popularity of the Cinsault grape. Cinsault, which has been growing in South Africa since the 1880s, was the most popular red grape in South Africa, about 75% of all red wines, at the start of the 20th century. The original South Africans used to refer to this grape as Cinsaut, without the "l" and Mount Abora has chosen to retain this historic spelling. Swartland now possesses a number of old-vine Cinsault vineyards.

For this wine, the Cinsult comes from 37 year-old vines and the wine was aged in older French oak for six months. their wine production is also natural, without commercial yeasts. At only 11.5% ABV, this is a light, easy-drinking wine with beautiful aromatics, delicious red fruit flavors, mild notes of black pepper, and a backbone of minerality. It is elegant and compelling and could remind you of a fine quality Pinot Noir. Highly recommended.

Also from the Swartland, the 2014 Tim Martin Wines Qaisar is made from 100% Mourvedre, sourced from an organic vineyard. It was fermented in an open-top French oak fermenter and then aged for about 11 months in a mix of neutral French oak barrels. This is also an elegant, light-bodied wine with a complex melange of flavors, including cherry, raspberry, eucalyptus, spice, and a hint of earthiness. Each sip seems to bring something new to your palate. And at only 12.4% ABV, it is easy to drink. Highly recommended.

What South African wines have you enjoyed lately?

Boston Wine Expo: Wines of California & New York

"We need to speak up on behalf – this is maybe a little self-serving here, forgive me – of those who are innovating new styles, or preserving something precious: an old style, an old variety, respecting the authority of a great terroir."
--Randall Grahm

Randall Grahm (pictured above), the founder and winermaker at Bonny Doon Vineyard based in Santa Cruz, California, produces a fascinating range of intriguing and delicious wines. He is also willing to experiment with different grapes and styles. Aesthetics are important to Randall, from the labels on the bottle to the wine inside. When you taste his wines, you know that it is going to be an adventure for your palate, and you eagerly await the wonders you will experience. When I saw Randall at the Boston Wine Expo, I needed to stop by his table.

I began tasting two of his Rosé wines, the 2016 Vin Gris de Cigare and the 2015 A Proper Pink. You can check my previous article on these wines, though the Vin Gris was the 2015 vintage. They are both wines I heartily recommend.

My #3 Top Favorite Wine of the Expo was the 2014 Clos de Gilroy “Cuvée Particuliere" ($19.99), which is produced mainly from Grenache with a little bit of Mourvedre. It was more of an Old-World style wine, with bright red fruit flavors, some peppery notes and a mild earthiness. It was complex and intriguing, an elegant and delicious wine that calls out for lamb or wild boar, or a hearty Italian ragu. The wine easily seduced my palate and it was hard to refrain from draining the bottle on my own. Highly recommended!

The 2013 Syrah Le Pousseur ($26), made from 100% Syrah, was also an impressive wine. It possessed an intriguing earthy nose, with black fruit aromas, and on the palate, it was rustic and earthy, with blueberry, plum, and black cherry flavors, with a hint of licorice and spice. Plenty of complexity, restrained tannins, and a lengthy finish collaborate to elevate the quality of this wine. It too has more of an Old-World style and is also highly recommended.

Halter Ranch, located in Paso Robles, is dedicated to sustainability and produce some excellent wines. Check out my previous article about Halter Ranch for more basic information about the winery and reviews of some of their wines, including their 2011 Halter Ranch Rosé. As I enjoyed their Rosé so much, I needed to try their newest vintage.

The 2015 Halter Ranch Rosé ($24) is a blend of 67% Grenache, 22% Picpoul Blanc, 8% Mourvedre, and 3% Syrah. The 2011 vintage was produced from the same grapes, except the proportions were different, with less Grenache and much more Syrah. It was fermented in stainless steel, did not undergo malolactic fermentation and was aged for two months in stainless steel. It saw no oak at all and has an alcohol content of 13.6%. The Rosé was dry and crisp, with subtle red fruit flavors, including cherry and strawberry, and with a nice backbone of minerality. There is a mild floral element to the wine as well, and it would be a perfect wine year-round, with or without food. This is the style of Rosé I very much enjoy and highly recommend this wine.

At last year's Expo, I tasted a number of wines from the Brooklyn Oenology Winery (BOE) and you can read my previous post about those wines. Alie Shaper (pictured above) is the owner and winemaker of BOE and she returned for this year's Expo. Alie has created a new label, the AS If Wines, with the "AS" standing for the initial of her name. Her website states: "“If” has been the guiding principle in my career. By examining all possibilities and opening myself up to all the answers “if” summons, I have been led to places that I never imagined, but were exactly where I should be."

Currently the label has three wines, a White blend called Serendipity ($45), a Rosé blend called Courage ($35), and a Red blend called Persistence ($40). The first vintage was 2014 and I got to taste all three wines at the Expo. My favorite was the AS If Courage, a wild fermented wine that is a blend of 50% Cabernet France, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 10% Syrah and 10% Petit Verdot. It was a full-bodied, dry Rosé with crisp acidity, and a pleasing melange of bright cherry, raspberry, and herbal notes with a hint of spice. It has a good complexity and is nicely balanced. It should be excellent on its own or paired with food.

Boston Wine Expo: Wines of Slovakia

Slovakia is a land-locked country in Central Europe, surrounded by Austria, Czech Republic, Hungary, Poland, and Ukraine. Wine making is Slovakia extends back 2600-2800 years and currently there are approximately 330 registered wineries in the country. Their vineyards include a number of indigenous varieties as well as numerous international grapes. I don't believe I've ever tasted a Slovakian wine so when I saw a Slovak booth at the Boston Wine Expo, I knew I needed to sample some of their wines. The booth offered a few still wines and several meads too.

All three still wines were produced by the Vino Dious Winery, a small and newer winery which occupies a historical manorial wine cellar from the 17th century, which used to be a part of the Smolenice Castle. The term ‘Dious’ comes from the ancient name of Horné Orešany village, representing Orešany's traditional quality of wine. They own some of their own vineyards, and are seeking to purchase more, so they can eventually produce only estate wines.

The 2013 Vino Dious Welsch Riesling, from the Južnoslovenská (South Slovak wine region), was dry and crisp, with intriguing herbal and mineral notes and hints of citrus. An easy-drinking and tasty wine. The 2013 Vino Dious Gruner Veltliner, from the Malokarpatská (West Slovak wine region) was also dry and crisp, with plenty of ripe fruity flavors, especially pear, with a spicy accent. The 2013 Vino Dious Chardonnay, from the Južnoslovenská (South Slovak wine region), was dry, fresh and crisp, with tasty apple, melon and citrus flavors. Another easy-drinking and tasty wine.

As all three wines cost about $12-$14, these are good values wines, and I certainly want to explore more Slovak wines.

The Apimed Meadery is a family-run business which produces various of meads, based on different types of honey. They want to highlight the species richness and diversity of Slovak honey, such as blossom, acacia, lime and forest honey. At the Expo, they offered four different meads for tasting, and overall they were sweet, without being cloying, but with additional floral, herbal or spice notes. The meads also sell for about $15-$20 each.

The Original Slovak Mead is predominantly made from Linden honey, a high-quality honey, and has a mild sweetness, with floral notes and a touch of citrus. The Old Slavic Light Mead is predominantly composed of Acacia honey, and possesses a bit of a sweeter flavor than the Original, with some vanilla notes and a hint of herbs. The Trnava Mead is produced from Floral honey, and is about as sweet as the Original, with notes of spice and floral elements. I found it to be more complex than the previous two meads.

My favorite of the meads though was the Old Slavic Dark Mead, made from Forest honey, which is also known as Honey Dew honey. With a mild sweetness, I found this honey to be more complex, with a nice depth of flavor, a darker aspect, and subtle notes of spice and forest. There was so much going on in this mead and each taste seemed to bring something new to my palate. Highly recommended.

Have you ever tasted Slovak wine or mead?

Boston Wine Expo: Wines of Israel

I started my wine sampling at the Grand Tasting of the Boston Wine Expo on Saturday at the King David Wines table, which is an importer and distributor of Israeli wines, all of which are Kosher. It was fortunate that my first tasting of the Expo ended up including a number of excellent wines. Israel produces some high quality wines and I've previously written a few articles about those wines. I recommend that you taste Israeli wines and find out why I am a fan.

The Ramat Negev Winery saw its origins back in 1997, with a desire to establish a winery that was based only on local produce. The owners planted 2.47 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon on their estate located near the Kadesh Barnea village, eventually naming the winery after the village. In time though, they decided to rename the winery, to the Ramat Negev Winery. "The name came from the desire to express the unique growing lands´ grapevines in Ramat Hanegev, while representing the entire Ramat Hanegev area." The winery is still small, producing only about 80,000 bottles annually.

The 2016 Ramat Negev Sauvignon Blanc was aromatic, with crisp and tasty flavors of grapefruit and pineapple. Easy drinking, fresh and fun. The 2016 Ramat Negev Kadesh Barnea Rosé, made from 100% Cabernet Franc, was also fresh, crisp and delicious. It is dry with pleasing red berry flavors and a hint of peach.

The 2015 Ramat Negev Kadesh Barnea Cabernet Sauvignon ($21.99) is aged for about ten months in mostly new American oak and then spends three months in the bottle. With an alluring aroma, the wine presents with a smooth taste, restrained tannins, and tasty flavors of cherry and plum, raspberry and blackberry with some spicy undertones, including vanilla. You could enjoy this wine on its own or pair it with a hearty dish.

My favorite from their portfolio was the 2013 Ramat Negev Ramon Petit Verdot ($39.99), from a  single vineyard, and I was told that Petit Verdot grows very well in Israel. The wine spent about 18 months in new French oak and then six months in the bottle. With a powerful spicy aroma, this wine is deep and dark but with restrained tannins. It possesses juicy blackberry and plum flavors with a touch of blueberry, a spicy aspect, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. This is a wine that is probably best paired with food and it should also impress many wine lovers. Highly recommended.

In 2007, Elad Movshoviz established Shokek Winery in Sussya in the southern Judean Hills, at an altitude of over 880 meters. In 2016, Elad decided to change the name of the winery to Drimia Winery. It is a tiny winery, producing only about 12,000 bottles annually, and they also produce only   four grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz and Petit Verdot. The 2012 Drimia Cabernet Sauvignon ($34.99) is also a deep and dark wine, powerful but restrained, with prominent black fruit flavors, a spicy streak, and a hint of eucalyptus taste. It is complex and delicious, with a lengthy finish, good acidity, and a nice balance. A very good wine, I will have to seek out their Petit Verdot.

Katlav Winery, located in Nes Harim, was founded in 1998 by Yossi Yitach, an architect by profession. The 2012 Katlav Wedi Katlav ($44.99) is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 10% Syrah which spent 18 months in French oak. It is a big and muscular wine, though the tannins don't overwhelm the wine. There are pleasing flavors of black cherry and plum, with lots of spicy notes, and hints of licorice. With its complexity, good acidity, and lingering finish, it delivers a quality wine. I am intrigued how this wine will taste with several years of aging.

Katlav then thoroughly impressed me with their 2013 Katlav Cabernet Sauvignon ($70-$75), which spent 36 months in French oak. With an alluring aroma of black fruit and spice, this was a more elegant, complex and subtle wine, which might have needed a little time to open up. However, its potential was clear, with such a fascinating depth of flavor, smooth tannins, a beautiful melange of flavors, and such a lengthy and satisfying finish. This is not an over-the-top wine, but still shines forth and I would have loved to spend an evening with this wine. Despite its high price, I still highly recommend it as it is well worth its cost.

What Israeli wines have you enjoyed recently?