Island Creek Oyster Bar: Reopened & Still Excellent

One of my favorite restaurants, Island Creek Oyster Bar in Burlington, has recently reopened, and is now available for dine-in, patio dining, and take-out. Their current hours are Wednesday & Thursday 4pm-9pm, Friday & Saturday 4pm-10pm, and Sunday 12pm-8pm (Brunch and Dinner). Hopefully in the near future, they'll reopen for Lunch as well. 

Last week, I dined there with a few family members and we all thoroughly enjoyed our dining experience. Yes, it's a bit different now due to the pandemic and the safety precautions restaurants need to take, but the food and wine remain as impressive as always. They serve their full menu, the same type of items they served before the pandemic, so there's plenty of good seafood choices, from raw to fried. And their drinks list is basically the same too, with a fascinating wine list, numerous cocktails, beers, and other drinks. 

Every day, they offer a special $1 oyster, until they are sold out, and we ordered a dozen of them, the Paines Creek Oysters from Brewster, MA. A nice briny taste and they worked well with a glass of Orlean Borbon Manzanilla Sherry ($9). The dry salinity of the Sherry complemented the oysters. More people should be drinking Sherry. 

From their Raw Bar menu, we also had some Scallop Ceviche ($12), with cherry tomato, jalapeno, cilantro, and lime. Fresh, tender pieces of scallops with bright acidity and a little bit of spicy heat.  An excellent summer choice. 

Also from the Raw Bar was the Yellowfin Tuna Poke ($14), with sesame, chili, nori. As usual, it consisted of silky tuna, with tangy citrus and mild spiciness. The thin, crisp taro root chips were a nice platform for the poke and the sesame seeds added a bit of crunchiness and a nutty element. One of my favorite choices when I dine here. 

The Clam Chowder ($11) is made with hand-dug clams, buttermilk biscuits, and house cured bacon. Creamy, with plenty of pieces of clam, a smoky kick from the bacon, and a nice crunch from the biscuits. 

Even something as simple as the ICOB Caesar ($12), with garlic croutons, white anchovy, and Pecorino, was very well done. Fresh ingredients, well balanced, provided a delicious taste.

One of the highlights of the dinner was the Swordfish Belly Pastrami ($10), atop white rye and topped by a peach mostarda. A nice smokiness to the tender swordfish, with a touch of sweetness from the peach, and some spiciness from the rye. It's creative and tasty, a definite winner of a dish.

We received a complimentary appetizer too, the Blue Crab & Artichoke Dip ($13), which is served with grilled naan. This was another big favorite at the table, and the cheesy crust atop the dip was so enticing. 

With dinner, I opted for a bottle of the 2016 Andrew Rich Marine Sedimentary Pinot Noir ($72) from the Willamette Valley, Oregon. As this wine is about $35 retail, its reasonably priced at the restaurant. Silky smooth, complex, and alluring, with an intriguing melange of flavors, including black cherry, raspberry, some dark spice, a touch of earth and some mineral notes. Well balanced and elegant with a lingering finish. Pure pleasure on the palate.

As an entree, I opted for the Lobster Roe Noodles ($34), with braised short rib, oyster mushrooms, and Pecorino. The slightly reddish noodles were cooked perfectly, and were an excellent palate for the tender short rib, ample and sweet lobster meat, and earthy mushrooms. A hearty and delicious dish, which went very well with the Pinot Noir.

Everyone else ordered a a warm, buttered Lobster Roll ($28) with cole slaw and their home-made kettle chips. The roll is stuffed with warm, sweet lobster, enhanced by the buttered bun, and the sandwich remains together, rather than falling apart like at some restaurants. It is everything you want from a buttered Lobster Roll. And those kettle chips are a delight, with a great crunch to them.

For dessert, we went with one of their standards, the Banoffee Pie ($9) with dulce de leche. This is an English dessert pie, commonly a blend of bananas and toffee, though Island Creek uses dulce de leche. The banana slices atop the pie have a light, crunchy layer of dulce de leche and would be a tasty dessert on their own. The silky and sweet cream is compelling, a fine topping for the thick banana slices beneath. Make sure to save room for dessert. 

Service was excellent, with a few minor differences. For example, once the server pours your initial glasses of wine from a bottle, they aren't permitted to later refill your glasses, You just refill them yourselves, which is  fine. If you want bread, it is brought to you in a small box, that contains two slices and a plastic tub of butter. Just measures intended to increase the safety of their guests, which is very important at this time. The restaurant truly seems concerned and cognizant of safety issues, which help to reassure guests. 

The food was as excellent as always, and their have an intriguing wine list, with plenty of less common selections, sure to please any adventurous wine lovers. The seafood is fresh, prepared well, and is worth the price. I'm so pleased that they have reopened, and look forward to my next visit. 

Hamilton Russell Vineyards: South African Pinot Noir

"We are not so much using Hamilton Russell Vineyards to make Pinot noir and Chardonnay as we are using Pinot noir and Chardonnay to express the beauty and personality of Hamilton Russell Vineyards. Our terroir, in effect, "chose" these varieties as its most individual and beautiful expression.”
--Anthony Hamilton Russell

When wine lovers think about the grapes of South Africa, they usually first think of Chenin Blanc, Pinotage, and Shiraz. They might then consider Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc. Pinot Noir generally is not one of the grapes that quickly comes to mind, but maybe it should as there are South African wine regions which produce high quality Pinot Noir, though they don't often receive the attention they deserve.

It's believed that Pinot Noir was first planted in South Africa in 1927, in the Stellenbosch region, but it wouldn't be until the 1970s and 1980s that the true potential of Pinot Noir began to become realized. Currently, only a little over 1% of the vineyards in South Africa are planted with Pinot Noir so it remains more of a niche grape, but that doesn't mean it should be ignored. And Hamilton Russell Vineyards produces one of the best Pinot Noir wines in South Africa.

Hamilton Russell Vineyards was founded in 1975 by Tim Hamilton Russell, who purchased 170, undeveloped hectares in the Walker Bay region. Tim sought out a cool climate, southerly site, desirous of planting Pinot Noir. Hamilton Russell is currently the most southerly winery in South Africa as well as the closest to the sea, only about 3 kilometers. The cool breezes that come in off the ocean make this the coolest region in South Africa.

This wine region is now known, since 2006, as Hemel-en-Aarde (which means "heaven and earth" in Afrikaans), and there are three wards within this area. This region, because of its closeness to the sea, has a maritime climate, and Pinot Noir and Chardonnay thrive here. Hamilton Russell is within the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley ward, and they were the first winery established within this region, with their first vintage in 1981.

Tim's son, Anthony Hamilton Russell, took over the reins of the winery in 1991, now working with his wife, Olive, winemaker Emul Ross and viticulturist Johan Montgomery. The winery only makes estate wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, though they have a couple other labels for other grapes. I've been a fan of their Pinot Noir for over 12 years, though it hasn't always been easy to find it on the shelves of local wine shops.

I recently received a media sample of then 2018 Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir ($42) and I was impressed with it, as I've long been with their other vintages. The wine was aged for about ten months, in a variety of French oak barrels, including 35% 1st fill, 47% 2nd fill, and 18% 3rd fill, of various toast levels. With only a 13.5% ABV, this is a pleasant red wine to drink and you can easily have a second, or even third glass over the course of an evening. With a dark red hue, though still partially opaque, the wine has an alluring nose of red fruits and spice, a mild floral note and a hint of earth.

On the palate, it's smooth and silky, with an intriguing complex melange of flavors, including strawberry, cherry and plum, mild spice notes (including a peppery aspect), and a subtle, underlying earthiness. Nice acidity, a clean taste, and a lengthy, satisfying finish. Simply delicious. This Pinot Noir can compete with wines made in any other region of the world. I paired this wine with salmon, in a garlic-teriyaki sauce, and it was an excellent pairing. This wine is certainly ready to drink now, though I'd love to see it with some age too.

Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir remains one of my favorite Pinot Noir producers and you really need to taste their wines and understand how South African Pinot Noir can excel.

Yamhill Valley Vineyards: Pinot Blanc, Rosé & Pinot Noir

As Spring progresses, and the weather gets warmer and warmer, many people start craving more White wines, Rosés, and lighter Reds. Oregon is an excellent region to find such wines, from Pinot Blanc to Pinot Noir. One of the compelling wineries in Oregon, located in the Willamette Valley, is the Yamhill Valley Vineyards. I received media samples of a few of their wines and was impressed with their taste and quality.

Yamhill Valley Vineyards was established in the foothills of Oregon’s Coast Range Mountains, in 1983, by Denis Burger, Elaine McCall, and David Hinrichs, and they initially bought 34 acres, planting it with Pinot Noir. Over time, they purchased additional land, until they now own 150 acres, and have planted other grapes, including Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Riesling. They have a current capacity of about 15,000 cases, growing, producing and bottling all of their wines on their estate.

In 2005, the McMinnville AVA, a subappellation of the Willamette Valley AVA, was established, and Yamhill Valley Vineyards fell within this new AVA, making them the oldest winery in that region. The McMinnville AVA currently has about 16 vineyards and about 750 acres of vineyards. Making McMinnville more unique, it's one of few AVAs that is designated in part based on elevation. Vineyards in this AVA must be located between 200 and 1,000 feet above sea level, and their soil is also different from much of the rest of the area. The soil is mostly uplifted marine sedimentary loams and silt.

The 2016 Yamhill Valley Vineyards Pinot Blanc ($25) was fermented in stainless steel, and then aged for seven months, 97% in stainless steel and 3% in neutral oak. With a 13.5% ABV, this wine has a compelling nose of stone fruits and floral accents, and on the palate, it is juicy and crisp, with delicious flavors of peach, melon, pineapple and nutty hints. Easy drinking but with a nice complexity and a lengthy finish. Very food friendly, this would work well with seafood to chicken, salads to soups. Or you could just sit outside and sip a glass on its own.

The 2018 Yamhill Valley Vineyards Rosé of Pinot Noir ($16-$18) was fermented in stainless steel, and then aged for three months, 95% in stainless steel and 5% in neutral oak. With a 13.8% ABV, this wine has a rich pink color and a pleasing nose of red fruits. On the palate, it is dry and crisp, with delicious and complex strawberry, watermelon, cherry and mild citrus flavors, and a hint of herbal notes. It is fresh and clean, with a satisfying finish, and is excellent on its own or paired with food. This would be great with seafood, pizza or even hamburgers. You should definitely stock up on this Rosé, as it will please yourself, as well as any guests you invite over.

The 2014 Yamhill Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir Reserve ($40) is a select barrel blend, aged for sixteen months in French oak, about 20% new. With a 14.3% ABV, it has a light ruby red color, with an alluring aroma of red fruits and subtle spices. On the palate, it presents a complex melange of flavors, bright cherry, a touch of vanilla, a mild, spicy backbone, and a hint of clove. The finish is lengthy and pleasing, with a bit more spice. Medium-bodied, interesting and delicious. This is a type of Pinot Noir which I enjoy, and which should please any Pinot lover.

Check out the wines of Yamhill Valley Vineyards. It's the perfect time to experience the wines of Oregon.

2017 Hyland Estates Old Vine Pinot Noir: "Land Not Hand"

It's one of the oldest wineries in Oregon, and its vineyards were initially planted with Pinot Noir, which may have been originally sourced from Alsace. An intriguing origin tale.

Hyland Estates, located in the McMinnville AVA of the Willamette Valley, Oregon, was first planted in 1971 by four families, the Kreimeyers, Markleys, Welches, and Trenhailes. One of the original Pinot Noir clones that was planted was the mysterious Coury clone, named after the pioneer Charles Coury, who came to Oregon in 1965, believing the area would be excellent for Pinot. It is believed that around 1964, Charles brought Pinot Noir cuttings from Alsace, and these became known as the Coury Clone, said to possess a "signature spice and elegant texture." Today, Hyland Estates grows over 30 acres of the Coury clone.

The estate is also now owned by Laurent Montalieu, Danielle Andrus Montalieu, and John Niemeyer, with Laurent acting as winemaker in conjunction with Anne Sery. Ranging over 200 acres, the vineyards are planted on red volcanic Jory soil, which is also the state soil of Oregon. Though Pinot Noir is their primary specialty, and they grow a number of different clones, their vineyards also grow a variety of other grapes, such as Chardonnay, Riesling, and Gewurtztraminer.

They practice Biodynamic agriculture and their grapes are LIVE certified grapes, indicative of their environmental and socially responsible winegrowing. The estate has also adopted a "land not hand" philosophy, a minimal interventionist stance, believing that the wine is primarily made in the vineyard, not in the winery.

The 2017 Hyland Estates Old Vine Pinot Noir ($45) is a single vineyard wine, made from a blend of different Pinot Noir clones, some as much as 48 years old, including 65% Coury clone. With a 13.3% ABV, this wine spent about 9 months in French oak and only about 1968 cases were produced.   Their goal was to "showcase the entire vineyard and the best of the clones planted throughout." With a medium red colorist possessed an appealing aroma of red fruits and subtle spice notes. On the palate, it was compelling and elegant, complex and silky, with delicious flavors of cherry and raspberry, with a mild spiciness, balanced acidity, well integrated tannins, and a touch of earthiness. The lengthy finish was satisfying and alluring, and beckoned for you to take another sip. An excellent Pinot, this earns my hearty recommendation.

2018 Amity Vineyards White Pinot Noir: Elegance in a Bottle

White Pinot Noir? In short, red grapes can make white wine as the color mainly comes from the skins. If you press red grapes lightly, with little to no contact with the skins, you can get white, or pale pink, juice. You've probably drank "white" Pinot Noir before, if you've enjoyed Champagne, which sometimes is a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, or even a Blanc de Noirs which is a white Champagne made from just Pinot Noir grapes. However, outside of Champagne and other sparkling wines, white Pinot Noir is more of a rarity. However, based on the quality of the 2018 Amity Vineyards White Pinot Noir, let's hope others decide to produce such wines.

The first vineyards, in what would become the Eola-Amity Hills AVA in 2006, were planted by Jerry and Anne Preston of Amity Vineyards in 1971. The primary grapes were Pinot Noir, Riesling, and Pinot Blanc. Amity would then be purchased in 1974 by Myron Redford and Janis Checchia, becoming the first bonded winery in 1976. Myron's goal was to produce first class Pinot Noir. About thirty years later, in 2014, the winery was sold once again to Ryan Harms from Union Wine Company & his brother, Eric Harms. He is continuing the tradition of producing quality Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, and Riesling.

It appears that one of the new wines that Ryan Harms is now producing is a White Pinot Noir, the first vintage apparently being 2015. I recently enjoyed the 2018 Amity Vineyards White Pinot Noir ($25), the first vintage of this wine I've tasted. The winery feels this was an excellent vintage, "with wines drinking fine in their youth, but with the ability to improve with age in the bottle." To produce this particular wine, the Pinot grapes, 69% from the Willamette Valley and 31% from Eola-Amity Hills, were harvested in the morning and then whole bunch pressed, though using a light press. It's fermented in stainless steel and then aged sur lie for a time.

At 13.9% ABV, this wine has a light pink color, almost like a Rosé, and on the nose, there's a blend of white fruit flavors, including tropical notes. Take a sip and you'll be impressed with its complex melange of rich fruit flavors, including melon, pear, pineapple and a hint of cherry. There is so much happening in your glass. Everything is well balanced and it's pure delicious, definitely excellent on its own though it will pair well with food too. Good acidity, a lengthy, pleasing finish, and you'll crave a second, and third, glass. I drank this wine with Thanksgiving dinner and my family and friends all loved it, asking where they could buy some. I later bought a case of this wine. Highly recommended! 

2015 Windvane Pinot Noir: A Carneros Charmer

Straddling the Sonoma and Napa wine regions, the Carneros AVA is well known as a cooler climate, an excellent area for growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. I've long enjoyed Pinot Noirs from the Carneros region, some of my favorite Pinots of California. Thus, I was curious when I learned of a new brand from this area, Windvane, producing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Windvane, part of Freixenet USA, is largely the creation of winemaker Steven Urberg, who is also the winemaker for Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards (also located in the Carneros AVA). Urberg's vision for Windvane was inspired by his interest in the windiest sections of the vineyards, believing that wind greatly influenced the character of the grapes. He believes that "...the stress from intense gusts coupled with the steepest, rockiest and thinnest soils, allow for slower ripening, intense flavor development and high levels of acidity in the grapes."

I received a media sample of the 2015 Windvane Carneros Pinot Noir ($45), which is produced from 100% estate Pinot Noir from a variety of the windiest blocks in the westernmost section of their 335-acre estate. The 2015 vintage was challenging due to the weather conditions, leading to the harvest of only a small crop, but the grapes possessed "excellent concentration and intense character." Thus, only 1,300 cases of this wine were produced. The Pinot Noir was harvested at night to preserve their freshness an only free run juice was used for the wine. The wine was then aged for about nine months in French oak (46% new).

I opened the bottle to accompany a dinner of Chinese sausages (bought from J. Pace & Son in Saugus.) With a 14.5% ABV, the wine possesses a medium red color and an enticing aroma of red fruit with mild, underlying spice notes. On the palate, the complex wine presented delicious and intense flavors of red cherry and blackberry, enhanced by mild spice notes and plenty of acidity. Medium-bodied, the finish was fairly lengthy and satisfying, ending with a silky crispness. The acidity of the wine helped to balance the sweetness of the sausages, and its flavors worked well with the spices and flavors of the sausage.  

This Pinot Noir would have been excellent on its own too, though it would be a great accompaniment with many different dishes. It is an impressive wine, worth the splurge, and earns my recommendation.

Wednesday Sips & Nibbles

I am here with a special Wednesday edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) On Wednesday, November 22, from 9pm-Midnight, Puritan & Co. Chef/Owner Will Gilson invites guests to join in celebrating Puritan & Company’s 5th Anniversary at the Cambridge restaurant’s annual Family-You-Choose Feast. Puritan & Company welcomes friends to a night of merriment celebrating five years of Puritan & Company success and the upcoming Thanksgiving holiday- a particularly special day for Mayflower pilgrim descendant, Will Gilson. The party will feature complimentary bites and a cash bar with specialty cocktails provided by sponsors Privateer Rum, Notch Brewing, and Campari.

To make reservations, please call (617)-615-6195

2) On Tuesday, December 5, starting at 6:30pm, Babbo Pizzeria e Enoteca will host an Italian wine dinner exploring the flavors of Italy's Piemonte region as well as in-season white truffles. Starting at 6:30 p.m., the evening will include a tasting of four different courses (including three truffle-centric mains) along with wine pairings from the Piemonte region.

The menu will feature:
1st course:
Guanciale pizza with white truffles
Wine: Castello di Verduno Pelaverga 2015
2nd course:
Braised rabbit and robiola cappellacci with white truffles
Wine: Luigi Pira Dolcetto d'Alba 2015
3rd course:
Brasato al barolo with polenta and white truffles
Wines: Produttori del Barbaresco 2014 AND Paolo Scavino Barolo 2013
4th course:
Hazelnut torta with gianduja and hazelnut gelato
Wine: Brandini Moscato d'Asti 2016

Tickets are $90 and will soon be available for purchase via Eventbrite.
For more information or to make reservations, please contact (617) 421-4466.

3) On Wednesday, November 29, at 6pm, Bistro du Midi invites guests to experience a variety of Pinot Noirs at the U.S. vs France wine dinner. Executive Chef Josue Louis will prepare an exclusive five-course menu with each plate expertly paired with one of the hand-picked wines by Head Sommelier Ray Osborne.

The full menu for the U.S. vs France Pinot Noir Dinner is as follows:
FIRST
Beet-cured salmon, caper, crème fraiche
2013 WILLAKENZIE, ‘GISELLE’, WILLAMETTE VALLEY, OREGON
SECOND
Spanish octopus, sunchoke, golden delicious, smoked almonds
2013 DOMAINE RION, 1ER CRU NUITS-ST-GEORGES AUX VIGNERONDES
THIRD
Oxtail tortellini, broccoli spigarello, salsify
2012 LOUIS LATOUR, GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN
FOURTH
Duck breast, celery root, candy cane beet, dates, juniper jus
2014 PATZ & HALL, SONOMA COAST
FIFTH
Chocolate ganache, cassis cremeux, lavender ice cream
PETITE KIR

Cost is $135 per person, not including tax and gratuity. Seating is limited; to make a reservation, please call 617-426-7878

4) Chef Daniel Bruce and the team at Boston Harbor Hotel are thrilled to welcome former New England Patriots Quarterback Drew Bledsoe to Meritage Restaurant + Wine Bar for a reception and four-course dinner on Wednesday, November 29, starting at 7pm.

Former NFL quarterback Drew Bledsoe will bring select wines from Doubleback, his family-owned vineyard on the outskirts of the Walla Walla Valley, to be sampled and enjoyed at the picturesque Meritage Restaurant + Wine Bar. After returning to his home state in 2007, Bledsoe collaborated with childhood friends and established winemakers to create a premium wine experience with a focus on world-class cabernet sauvignon.

The full menu for the evening is as follows:
RECEPTION
2015 Argyle Brut Rose
DINNER
First Course
2016 Bledsoe Family Cabernet Sauvignon
Char Seared Ora King Salmon, Smoked Winter Vegetables, Cabernet Demi
Second Course
2015 Bledsoe Family Stolen Horse Syrah
Crispy Wild Mushrooms, Shaved Iberico Pork Belly, Melted Leeks, Porchini Dust
Third Course
2014 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon
2011 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon – Cellar Release
Cocoa and Five Spice Rubbed Grilled Prime Rib Filet, Fennel Laced Potato Gnocchi, Cabernet Raspberry, Glazed Baby Brussels
Fourth Course
2015 Bledsoe Flying B Cabernet Sauvignon
Aged Gouda, Parsnip Feta Crepes, Red Wine Syrup, Kale Chip, Fried Sage

Tickets can be purchased on Eventbrite for $225 per person (including tax and gratuity). This is a 21+ event.

From 1865 Selected Vineyards: A Killer Chilean Pinot Noir For Under $20

It's difficult to find a compelling Pinot Noir for under $20. Most under that price point are too simple, wines without character. They may be drinkable but they won't bring a smile to your face or a twinkle to your eye. However, when you find a sub-$20 Pinot Noir of complexity and elegance, a wine that tasted blind would make you think of a $30-$40 wine, then you've struck vinous gold.

Last week, I struck that vinous gold.

I had the pleasure of meeting Matias Cruzat (pictured above), the winemaker for the 1865 label of Viña San Pedro in Chile, for a private tasting of several of his wines. Viña San Pedro is the second largest winery in Chile, having been founded in 1865 in the Curicó Valley by the Correa Albano brothers. The winery has a number of different labels, and in 1997, they created the 1865 label, a nod to the date of their founding. The concept behind that label is to produce single-varietal wines from different terroirs, those which best represent the grapes.

Currently, they produce seven wines under the 1865 Selected Vineyards label, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Syrah, Carmenere, and Cabernet Sauvignon. There are also two higher end categories under this label, including 1865 Special Editions and 1865 Limited Edition. The production of the 1875 wines often include use of concrete eggs (especially for the Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Sauvignon Blanc) and foudres (large wooden casks of French oak, from 1000 to 5000 liters).

Matias has been working for the winery for 4.5 years, and has prior experience working at wineries in California and South Africa. He was born in the U.S., to Chilean parents, as his father studied for his MBA in the U.S. and also worked for Proctor & Gamble in Cincinnati, Ohio. Overall, Matias is personable and engaging, upfront and intelligent. He is also a passionate advocate for his 1865 wines, as well as the wines of Chile.

The 1865 wines I tasted all cost under $20 retail, typically $17.99 at your local wine store, and are imported by United Liquors. At this price point, they are excellent values. Matias stated that as the cost of land and grapes are much lower in Chile, they are able to offer much better prices on their wines than you might find from other regions, such as California and Oregon.

The 2017 1865 Selected Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc is a 100% Sauvignon Blanc from the Santo Domingo vineyard in the Leyda Valley. The vineyard is only about 3.5 kilometers from the coast, one of the closest to the ocean. The vineyard also has primarily granitic soils and many fossilized shells have been found in the soil. The closeness to the ocean allows the grapes to ripen more slowly, leading to more aromatic wines with a strong mineral component. Only about 5000 cases of this wine were produced.

Fermentation takes about a month and about 20% of the grapes spent time in neutral French oak foudres, giving contact with the lees. The 2007 vintage was tough, a warmer vintage. The wine has a pale yellow color with the aroma of citrus and a touch of green pepper, the typical green of Leyda Valley. On the palate, Matias notes that the wine is unlike "New World explosive Sauvignon Blanc."  I found the palate to be complex, with intriguing citrus, including a touch of grapefruit, and mineral notes, a crisp acidity and a touch of green pepper. An interesting white wine with plenty of character at this price point.

The 1865 2015 Selected Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Las Piedras vineyard of the Valle Del Maipo. The Cabernet spent about 12 months in 95% French and 5% American oak, with 50% first use and 50% second use barrels. About 50,000 cases of this wine were produced, so you should be able to find this readily available.

The Cabernet possesses a dark red color with a fruity aroma with hints of spice and a touch of chocolate. On the palate, it is soft and elegant, with low tannins, and a delightful melange of cherry, plum, and blackberry with subtle spice notes and a lengthy finish. Matias mentioned that the Maipo Valley is well known for the soft tannins in its grapes, one of the most important aspects of that area. With its softer tannins, this Cabernet doesn't need a steak to tame its tannins, and can also pair well with everything from a burger to a Bolognese. It might also work with a rich fish like Salmon or Tuna. This is a Cabernet with plenty of character and complexity at this price point, making it a very good value.

And to me, the clear winner of the tasting was the 2016 1865 Pinot Noir. Matias mentioned that he is obsessed with Pinot Noir and it's clear that he has created a stunning example in this wine. He noted that though some Pinot Noir had been planted in Chile many years ago, it is only within the last 10-20 years that anyone has become serious about it. The grapes for this wine come from the El Platero Vineyard in the Valle Del Elqui. About ten years ago, they planted their first vineyards in Elqui, starting with Sauvignon Blanc and then later planting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The vineyard is about 20 kilometers from the ocean and the region is both coastal and Andes, a cool climate region that once grew grapes primarily for producing Pisco.

The wine was aged for about eight months in a combination of foudres, concrete eggs and barrels. It has a 13.5% ABV, as Matias stated he didn't want to make a high-alcohol Pinot Noir. Matias also stated that this wine was produced in the same fashion as he would produce a high-end Pinot Noir. As only 1500 cases of this wine were made, it won't be around too long and could be more difficult to find, but I highly recommend you seek it out.

This Pinot Noir has a light red color, and an alluring and complex nose of red fruits and touches of earth and spice. Those aromas will draw you in and you won't be disappointed once you taste it. The wine is elegant and light bodied, with a complex and fascinating melange of flavors, including bright red cherry, more subdued black cherry, subtle spice notes, and underlying hints of earthiness. There was excellent acidity, mineral notes, and a lingering, satisfying finish. It was well-balanced and compelling, reminding me in different ways to Burgundian Pinot as well as Oregonian Pinot, yet still with its own unique character.

I could not rave enough about this wine. I tasted it without knowing the price and would have thought it easily cost $30-$40, and been worth that price. When I learned it cost less than $20, I was stunned. Initially, I was told it was less than $15, but later research indicated that was the wholesale price and it retails about $17.99. At that price, it is still a killer value and it receives my highest recommendation. I'm planning on stocking up on this wine and encourage all wine lovers to do the same.  

Kudos to Matias for producing such delicious and compelling wines at a great price point.

Enderle & Moll Basis: An Intriguing German Pinot Noir

Spätburgunder.

A German word for what you will likely better know as Pinot Noir. German Rieslings get most of the attention so many people don't realize that Pinot Noir is produced in Germany. In fact, Pinot Noir has been grown in Germany since at least the 14th century, though it never attained the fame of Burgundy, partially as the wines just didn't seem as good as those in Burgundy. However, their quality has greatly improved. Currently, there are approximately 12,000 hectares of Pinot Noir grown in Germany and we're starting to see more of those wines in the U.S. market.

Streetcar Wines, in Jamaica Plain, has an excellent and fascinating selection of wines, primarily from small producers and their prices are very reasonable. This is a wine lovers store, an intriguing place for people to explore and expand their palates. Recently, while perusing their shelves, I found the 2014 Enderle & Moll Basis Pinot Noir ($30) and owner Michael Dupuy told me that it might be his favorite German Pinot Noir. I chose to buy a bottle, as well as a number of other fascinating wines.

The Enderle & Moll winery, which is relatively new, is named for its two German owners, Sven Enderle and Florian Moll. The winery is located in the Baden region, in the Black Forest foothills between Offenburg and Freiburg im Breisgau. They have a small, 2.4 hectare vineyard, in the village of Münchweier, which they farm organically and they also purchase some grapes from another small, organic vineyard. Their Pinot Noir vines are some of the oldest in the Baden region and purchase aged barrels from a small estate in Burgundy. Enderle and Moll are seen as "contrarians," very different from many other neighboring German producers. They are very hands-on, producing wines which many might consider "natural wines." They also have a reputation for making some of the best Pinot Noir in Germany.

The 2014 Enderle & Moll Basis Pinot Noir is their entry-level Pinot and it is created from two different barrels. One barrel is from whole clusters that were foot-stomped while the other barrel was only 30% whole clusters. And this wine has only an 11.5% ABV, an amazingly low alcohol level compared to most other Pinot Noirs. This wine has a very light red color and on the nose, its present an alluring scent of cherry, mild spice and a touch of earthiness. On the palate, you'll be impressed with its elegance and complexity, its bright acidity and delightful flavors of red fruit, spice notes, earthy elements and a touch of herbs.

With a lengthy and pleasing finish, this is a killer Pinot, one that can easily compete with Pinots from any other region. It seems like a wine reflective of place, and it was easy to finish the bottle over the course of an evening. And if this is only their entry level wine, then I very much want to explore their higher end wines, to see the vinous magic they produce. I highly recommend this wine and also highly recommend you check out Streetcar Wines.

Boston Wine Expo: Wines of Alsace & Luxembourg

Despite the number of French wines at the Boston Wine Expo, there were only two wines from the Alsace region, located in northeastern France. I've previously enjoyed many wines from Alsace, from delicious & dry Riesling to compelling Crémant d'Alsace. "As I've said repeatedly before, Alsatian wines are generally not on the radar of the average consumer but they should be. They can often provide excellent value and taste. They are enjoyable while young but can also age well. They can provide a sense of history, as well as showcase state of the art wine making. At their most basic though, they are delicious."

There should be more Alsatian wines at the Expo, especially as there is a significant growth of imports. For example, Alsatian wine exports to the U.S. have increased by about 24% since 2011. In addition, the U.S. is the 3rd largest import market by value. Alsatian wines have plenty of room for growth, but it is obvious that Americans want more Alsatian wines.

Fine Terroir Selections imports wine from France and other Mediterranean countries, representing a single Alsatian producer, the Ruhlmann Winery. The ancestors of the Ruhlmann family were Hungarian knights who settled in the central Alsace back in 1688. The estate includes approximately 75 acres, with two Grands Crus (Frankstein and Muenchberg) and two Lieu-dit sites.  The winery produces five different lines of wines, from Cépage to Cave Précieuse, using grapes such as Auxerrois, Chasselas, Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, Gewurtztraminer and Pinot Noir.

The 2015 Ruhlman Riesling Cuvee Jean-Charles ($12.99) is more of a traditional dry Riesling with bright lemon, pear and citrus flavors, crisp acidity and some mineral notes. At this price, it is an excellent value wine, offering more complexity than many other Rieslings at this price. I think this would be an excellent seafood wine, with everything from oysters to sushi.

About 90% of the Alsatian wine production is white, so their Pinot Noirs are more difficult to find. I've tasted a number of Crémant d'Alsace Rosés, made from Pinot Noir, but their still Pinot Noirs have been elusive. The 2015 Ruhlman Pinot Noir Cuvee Mosaique ($14.99) was absolutely delicious, an easy drinking Pinot with a nice melange of flavors. It is very light red in color as well light-bodied on your palate. It offers bright red fruit flavors, cherry and raspberry, a hint of an underlying earthy element, and a decently long finish. At this price point, this is one of the best value Pinots you'll find and highly recommended. I'd buy this by the case to enjoy on its own or with dishes from burgers to pasta. It also means I need to seek out more Alsatian Pinot Noirs.

Wine importer Ansay International represents Domaines Vinsmoselle, a wine cooperative in  Luxembourg that was founded in 1921. The cooperative is located on the banks of the Moselle, encompassing about 800 hectares of vineyards surrounding Chateau de Stadtbredimus, the former home of Edmond de ls Frontaine, the national poet of Luxembourg. The cooperative, with almost 300 winemakers, also includes the traditional wineries of Greiveldange, Grevenmacher, Remerschen, Stadtbredimus, Wellenstein & POLL-Fabaire Cremant Development Center in Wormeldange. Some of their wines were first imported into the U.S. last spring.

Luxembourg is a small country, surrounded by France, Belgium and Germany, and when I tasted several of their wines it brought to mind the wines of Alsace. Similar grapes, similar styles.

The NV Domaines Vinsmoselle Pinot Luxembourg is a blend of Pinot Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris. It is intended to be an entry level wine, and it is fresh, crisp, and fruity, with delicious pear and melon notes and hints of herbal notes. And at only 11.5% ABV, you'll be able to drink plenty of this wine. It would be tasty on its own or paired with food, from seafood to light chicken dishes.

The 2014 Bech-Kleinmacher Naumberg Auxerrois Grand Premier Cru, with a 12.5% ABV, is a more complex and intriguing wine, with citrus and melon notes, but also a nice mix of spices and herbs, elevating its balanced taste. It is elegant, with a lengthy finish, and will delight and fascinate wine lovers.

The 2014 Wormeldange Wousselt Riesling Grand Premier Cru, with a 12% ABC, will remind you of an Alsatian Riesling. It is dry and aromatic, with plenty of lemon, lime and mineral notes of the palate. There is also a mildly spicy undertone, lots of complexity, and a lengthy, satisfying finish.

The NV Poll-Fabaire Crémant de Luxembourg Brut, with a 12% ABV, is a blend of Pinot Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc, and Riesling, presenting as fresh, clean and dry, with pleasant fruit flavors, a full-body, and a nice minerality. Tasty and creamy bubbly which should please.

Bring on more Luxembourg wines if they are as delicious as these examples.

2010 Clos De La Tech "Santa Cruz Mountain Estates" Pinot Noir

Silicon chips and Burgundy? 

It might seem a strange combination but a confluence of factors has contributed to bringing together these seemingly disparate items, and the end result is compelling.

We begin with T.J. Rodgers, the CEO of Cypress Semiconductor, which is located in Silicon Valley, the renowned technological center. We then continue on to Clos de la Tech Winery, located in the Santa Cruz Mountains, deep within the center of the Silicon Valley. The connection is that Rodgers founded this winery in 1994. As Rodgers loves French Burgundy, he was driven to create Pinot Noir at his winery. Melding his worlds, Rodgers places the picture of a silicon chip on the neck of each bottle of his wines.

The winery has three vineyards, including: Domaine du Docteur Rodgers, a one-acre vineyard that produces about 100 cases of Pinot Noir annually; Domaine Valeta, so high in the Santa Cruz Mountains that it snows and which produces only 200 cases of Pinot Noir annually; and Domaine Lois Louise, which currently produces 1,500 cases of Pinot Noir annually and will produce 10,000 cases when in full production. As their web state states: "Some of the highlights at Clos de la Tech include extreme growing conditions, high-altitude terrain, vine-by-vine farming, high-density planting (4,150 vines per acre), low yields (below one ton per acre), innovative equipment, gravity-flow winery, whole cluster fermentations and no filtration."

I received a media sample of their 2010 Pinot Noir "Santa Cruz Mountain Estates" ($42). This wine is made from five different Pinot Noir grapes, from all three of their vineyards, though most come from steep, south facing hillsides. The grapes are crushed by foot, and then undergo whole closer fermentation with native heat and malolactic fermentation on the lees. The wine is aged for about 12 months in French oak, from the Betrange Forest, with 75% new oak. It is bottled unfiltered, has a 14.4% ABV, and about 384 cases were produced.

With a dark red, almost purple color, the wine presents with an alluring nose of black fruit and spice. On the palate, it is muscular though elegant, with restrained tannins, with bold, lush flavors of plum and black cherry, with rich spices notes and an underlying earthy element. The satisfying finish lingered on for quite some time, and I found the wine to be complex, well balanced, and delicious. It should be accompanied by a hearty dish, such as juicy steak or leg of lamb. A nice alternative to choosing a Cabernet Sauvignon as an accompaniment to your steak.

Ten Things You Should Know About Southern Oregon (Part 2)

(Continued from Part 1)

5) Southern Oregon lacks a singular grape/wine identity.
The Willamette Valley is best known for Pinot Noir but Southern Oregon is still seeking what will be their signature grape or wine. They currently grow at least 70-80 different grapes and the region's climate and soils allow them to grow nearly any grape that exists. About 70% of the grapes they grow are red, with some of their top planted grapes including Pinot Noir (about 20%), Syrah (about 11%), Merlot (about 11%), Pinot Gris (about 10%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%).

Two of the more exciting grapes making their mark in this region are Viognier and Tempranillo, which a couple winemakers told me should be the signature grapes of Southern Oregon. However, those two grapes currently constitute only 3% and 4% of plantings, respectively, so they still have a long ways to come before becoming signature grapes. Plantings of different grapes continue, and currently Rhone grapes are starting to become more popular. One problem is that though the wine makers often chat and cooperate on an individual level, there really isn't a large, industry based group which would meet to discuss regional issues, such as what might best be a signature grape.  

6) Southern Oregon has numerous microclimates.
Though Southern Oregon is generally considered a warm-climate region, it possesses about 70 microclimates, and includes cool-climate areas. It occupies a similar latitude as sections of northern Spain, including parts of Ribera del Duero and Rioja, which probably is a reason why Tempranillo does so well here. The region also has four distinct viticultural zones, including Northern Umpqua Valley, Umpqua Valley, Rogue Valley and Illinois Valley. Much of the region has large diurnal to nocturnal temperature changes, which is good for certain grapes. Those grapes don't metabolize acid as quickly, as the cold temperatures help to shut down that process. Vintage variation is also significant in this region, and an important factor that winemakers must address each year. It is something that consumers need to realize as well, that vintage will play a far greater role in Southern Oregon than it usually does in California.

7) Greg Jones is one of Southern Oregon's most valuable assets.
Greg Jones, a professor and climatologist at Southern Oregon University, has been a valuable asset to the wineries of Southern Oregon. In 2009, he was listed as one of Decanter's most influential wine persons and that honor is well deserved. He has consulted all around the world, including a terroir assessment of the Douro in Portugal. In Oregon, he helped to create the Southern Oregon AVA and conducted extensive grower surveys from 1998-2001. Then, in 2003, he established a presence at 29 Southern Oregon wineries to monitor climate, phenology, yield, fruit sampling, and much more. These surveys and studies have greatly benefited the region, providing much valuable information for the wineries, allowing them to better understand their terroir. His invaluable assistance has been instrumental in the growth of the Southern Oregon wine industry. His family is also involved in the region, owning the Abacela Winery. More wine regions need someone as passionate, dedicated and intelligent as Greg Jones.

8) Southern Oregon has plenty of sustainable vineyards.
Oregon has a long history of sustainable agriculture and is even the center for Demeter USA, the Biodynamic certification organization. About 47% of Oregon's vineyards are certified sustainable, and that number is growing, which you can also compare to the only 12% of California vineyards. Supporting Oregon wineries is thus good for the environment too. About 5% of Oregon wineries are certified Biodynamic, though only one winery in Southern Oregon, Cowhorn Vineyards, is so certified. It seems likely that other Southern Oregon wineries will eventually move to Biodynamic as it is a growing, albeit slowly, trend in Oregon. A concern for the environment extends to most, if not all, of the wineries in Southern Oregon.

9) Wine tourism in Southern Oregon needs assistance.
One obstacle to making Southern Oregon wines more popular is that wine tourism is not fully supported by the region. The primary problem lies with restrictive laws which severely limit what wineries can construct on their property. As these wineries and vineyards are considered by law to be farmland, it is extremely difficult for them to add a restaurant or inn to their property. These laws probably hurt the region far more than they help, by limiting wine tourism which would bring more income to the area. Look at most wine region destinations around the world, and restaurants and hotels/inns at the wineries contribute to their popularity. It can even be a safety issue, where tourists who taste wines at several wineries, and could possibly be intoxicated, would be able to dine at a restaurant, or get a room at the winery rather than drive elsewhere to seek them.

10) Southern Oregon needs more wines under $15.
In general, Oregon wineries focus on producing higher end wines, costing $20 and over. As such, a significant number of consumers find Oregon wines to be too expensive for every day consumption. For Southern Oregon, which currently lacks the fame or singular identity of the Willamette Valley, it thus becomes much harder to penetrate the market. Fortunately, at least a few producers in the Southern Oregon region are starting to address that issue by producing wines that cost less than $15, catering to maybe the largest consumer market. For example, the Valley View Rogue Red, pictured above, is a red blend that sells for around $10 a bottle. Hopefully, we shall see more value priced wines from Southern Oregon, as well as the rest of Oregon too.

Ten Things You Should Know About Southern Oregon (Part 1)

The "3 Ps" of Oregon are Portland, Precipitation & Pinot Noir.

Greg Jones, a climatologist at Southern Oregon University, made the above statement, stating it was a common belief in Oregon. Pinot Noir and Oregon is such a famous combination, a singular identity that is known across the world, elevating the Willamette Valley to being the most recognizable American Viticultural Area (AVA) in Oregon. With over 300 wineries and 610 vineyards, accounting for nearly 75% of Oregon's wine production, the Willamette Valley seems to get almost all of the attention and publicity.

Most consumers probably couldn't identify another Oregon AVA besides Willamette. They might not even realize that there is Oregon wine made outside of the Willamette. However, consumers should learn about the other Oregon's AVAs, especially Southern Oregon, which has much to offer outside of the realm of Pinot Noir.

Recently, I traveled to Oregon, as part of a journalist trip sponsored by the Oregon Wine Board, and was accompanied by two other wine writers, Erin Guenther and Michael Cervin. From Medford to Portland, we visited both Southern Oregon and the Willamette Valley, tasting plenty of wine, meeting numerous wine makers, and enjoying the bounty of local cuisine. It was harvest time at most of the wineries, one of the earliest harvests in years, so it was a great time to visit, to see the wineries in operation. It was also an extremely busy time for the wineries, and my gratitude goes out to all of those who took some of their precious time to meet with us. Though I knew the Southern AVA existed before I journeyed there, my experience with the wines from this region was very limited so I was eager to learn more about this area and to sample the wines they produce.

The Southern Oregon AVA has five sub-AVAs, including Rogue Valley, Umpqua Valley, Red Hill Douglas County, Applegate Valley and Elkton. Though Southern Oregon is generally a warm-climate region, it possesses about 70 microclimates, and includes cool-climate areas. The region has over 65 wineries and 230 vineyards, and its history with wine extends back over 150 years. In fact, Southern Oregon is the locale of several vinous firsts for Oregon, including the first grape vineyards, the first Pinot Noir plantings, and the first commercial winery. Willamette Valley may be more famous, but the importance of Southern Oregon to the wine industry should not be forgotten.

Around 1847, Henderson Luelling, a horticulturist from Indiana (who also spent ten years in Iowa), moved to the Rogue Valley in Oregon and planted the first grapes, as well as numerous other fruits. When he initially departed for the Oregon Territory, he took with him around 700 fruit trees and berry bushes, hoping to eventually plant them in the Oregon soil. That was quite a large burden to transport across half the country and he ended up losing about half of them on route. However, he had enough trees and plants left to successfully plant a number of orchards, including apples, cherries and pears. As there were few other orchards in Oregon at that time, Luelling eventually became wealthy due to his plantings. It is also interesting to know that Luelling's brother, Seth, developed the Bing Cherry.

Luelling and his son-in-law, William Meek, planted the Isabella grape in Oregon, an American hybrid grape that may have been developed in South Carolina in 1816, though there is some disagreement over its actual origin. It is alleged that Leulling and Meek won a medal for one of their Isabella wines at the California State Fair in 1859. That might be the first Oregon wine to win a medal at any wine competition, and it might not have been until 1904 that another Oregon wine would win a competition medal.

In the 1850s, Peter Britt, a Swiss immigrant and photographer, came to the Oregon Territory because of gold fever. Though his primary income was through photography, he tried his hand at mining as well. A man of eclectic interests, he also was intrigued by horticulture and took time to plant orchards, such as pears and peaches, and eventually even grapes. He planted his own vineyards in the Rogue Valley, also eventually establishing, in 1873, the first commercial winery, the Valley View Vineyard, in Jacksonville.

In 1859, Oregon became an official state and took a census the next year, noting that annual wine production was approximately 2,600 gallons, or roughly 1000 cases, though that probably includes both fruit and grape wines. About twenty years later, Peter Britt alone would be producing 1000-3000 gallons of wine, which he sold locally for only 50 cents a gallon. Britt is also responsible for planting over 200 types of grapes, both vinifera and labrusca, in the Rogue Valley, experimenting with their suitability to the region. He might have even been the first person to plant Pinot Noir in Oregon.

Unfortunately, in 1916, Oregon instituted Prohibition, four years prior to the federal ban, and it would last until 1933. In essence, it destroyed the burgeoning wine industry and it would take nearly thirty years after the lifting of Prohibition before the industry started to rebound. In the late 1950s, Richard Sommer, a UC Davis graduate and often referred to as the "Father of Oregon wine," established the HillCrest Vineyard in the Umpqua Valley. In 1961, he planted the first documented Pinot Noir vines in Oregon, releasing his first Pinot Noir wine in 1967. The first Pinot Noir vines wouldn't be planted in the Willamette Valley until 1965. Sommer planted other grapes too, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Zinfandel. This would herald the start of the modern wine industry in Oregon.

However, the main interest for vineyards and wine production seemed to now center in the Willamette Valley, forged by pioneers such as David Lett, Charles Coury, and Dick Erath, who planted their vineyards in the 1960s. During the 1970s, new vineyards were established in the Rogue Valley though growth was relatively slow. By 1987, there were only 5 wineries and 38 vineyards in the Southern Oregon region though by 2009, there were over 40 wineries, with 113 vineyards.

In 1984, the Umpqua Valley was the first region in Southern Oregon to be declared an AVA. This was the same year that the Willamette Valley was declared an AVA. The Rogue Valley would become an AVA in 1991, though both the Umpqua and Rogue would be subsumed in 2004 under the larger Southern Oregon AVA. The newest sub-AVA in Southern Oregon is Elkton, which was declared in 2013.

My understanding of Southern Oregon has been expanded and enhanced through my visit to this region. At this time, I want to present a list of Ten Things You Should Know About Southern Oregon, to give you a foundation of some important items so that you can better understand this largely under-appreciated region and its wines. I would also recommend that if you travel to Oregon that you should take some time to visit Southern Oregon, and don't just spend all your time in the Willamette Valley.

1) Southern Oregon is breathtaking.
Upon my arrival in Medford, Oregon, and throughout my time in Southern Oregon, I was struck by its natural beauty, the landscape largely dominated by mountains and forests. Majestic mountains, thrusting high into the clouds, and lush wooded areas that seemed to extend to the horizon. It invokes a sense of serenity and wonder, inflaming a passion for nature. And as we drove through the area, we saw plenty of animals being raised, including horses, cows, sheep, goats, llamas and emus. There are also many wild animals in the region, including bears, mountain lions, deer, turkeys and more. We onlu saw some turkeys. You'll feel a real connection to nature in Southern Oregon and that alone makes a visit to this region worthwhile.

2) The Southern Oregon wine industry is still relatively young.
Despite its lengthy history, with several vinous firsts, the modern wine industry in Southern Oregon is still relatively young, especially when compared to the Willamette Valley. There is only a small number of wineries, though some of the wines they are producing are excellent. Talking to a number of wine makers, it seems clear that many are still trying to work out which grapes work best, what type of wines to create, and more. It is a time of experimentation, discovery and learning. There is much potential here and continued growth is probably a given. They have only scratched the surface with their vineyards, and up to another 250,000 acres could possibly be planted. I love the excitement and passion of new wine regions, and I foresee Southern Oregon gaining much respect in the near future.

3) Southern Oregon wineries are small operations.
The 40+ wineries in this region are generally small, many producing less than 5000 cases and those few wineries producing around 20,000 cases feel that they are large, though most others outside the region wouldn't. Because of their small size, it can be difficult to find their wines outside of Oregon. As they lack the cachet of Willamette Valley, these wines are much more of a handsell, and require a large investment of time and effort for marketing and sales by the winery, especially outside of Oregon. Not all wineries can afford that time and effort, so they concentrate their efforts just within the state. In time, if these wineries grow larger, then maybe it would be worthwhile for more of them to market to areas outside off Oregon. So if you want to experience their wines, you generally need to visit the region.

4) There are plenty of passionate wine people in Southern Oregon.
I met such a diversity of people involved in the wine industry Southern Oregon, from enthusiastic young people to older people who also possessed great enthusiasm. A number of them were transplants, from other states or even countries, who sought out Oregon for their wine careers. Others were starting second careers, having retired from a range of other occupations, and a number of them had never worked in wine before. What brought them all to Southern Oregon was a passion for wine. They certainly weren't there to make a fortune, and they generally seemed satisfied to make an adequate living from their wineries. There is a lack of pretension in this region, and there is also a sense of collaboration between the wineries, that they are friends rather than competitors. It is a real pleasure to meet and chat with these fine people.

To Be Continued...

Matetic Vineyards: Chilean Cool Climate Syrah & More

While sipping iced tea at Crema Cafe in Harvard Square, I flipped through the latest issue of Decanter (October 2013), which was devoted to the wines of South America. Later that evening, I had dinner plans at Park Restaurant to meet a representative of Matetic Vineyards, a Chilean winery. Within the pages of Decanter, I found multiple references to Matetic, including raves for three of their wines, two Syrahs and a Pinot Noir. There was even a rave for the hotel at their winery. I was even more excited then for dinner, to get to taste through some of the wines of Matetic.

Arturo Larrain, pictured above, is the General Manager of Matetic Vineyards and was my host for dinner, sharing the story of the winery and tasting me through eight of their wines. He was personable and knowledgeable, and it was quite an enjoyable evening with plenty of tasty and impressive wines.

The history of the winery extends back over 100 years, to 1892, when the Matetic family immigrated to Chile from Croatia, settling in the region of Patagonia. You probably didn't know, and neither did I, that Chile contains one of the largest Croatian communities outside of Europe. Escaping from war, oppression and disease, Croatians started arriving in Chile around 1864, as Chile offered them land in the sparsely populated Patagonia area. In Patagonia, the Matetic family got involved in agriculture and eventually moved north, to the San Antonio Valley where they settled in the Rosario Valley, a subdivision of San Antonio.

They entered the timber business, planted organic blueberries and raised cows, lambs and sheep. In fact, currently, they are one of the largest producers of lamb in Chile. They also make a special sheep's milk cheese called Rosario. Wanting to continue diversifying, Jorge Matetic and his brother Cristian, the third generation in Chile, decided to plant a vineyard, and in 1999, planted their first vines, mainly Syrah. As they had no experience with wine making, they hired three consultants from California to assist them, including Alan York (of Benzinger Vineyards), Ann Kraemer (a Napa viticulturalist), and Ken Barnards (of Ancien Vineyards).

The winery now owns about 120 hectares of vineyards, all which are certified organic and Biodynamic. Alan York is also a Biodynamics consultant and he helped the Matetics move in that direction. Their vineyards grow nine different grapes, including Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Gewurtztraminer, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Syrah. They produced the first cool-climate Syrah in Chile, and with their success, other wineries began producing their own cool-climate Syrahs too. Now, many consider Syrah to be the signature grape of the San Antonio Valley. In 2004, the Matetics constructed a state of the art winery, and their chief winemaker is Julio Bastias.

When I visited Chile two years ago, many winemakers commented that Chile was still in the process of learning which grapes grew best in various locations. And Arturo echoed their sentiments, that Chile is still immersed in that process, though making some forward strides,such as realizing how well Syrah grows in the San Antonio Valley.

With their cool climate, including large diurnal to nocturnal temperature swings, their wines always have good acidity. In general, they produce wines to be paired with food, a more European outlook. About 60% of their production is exported, to around 30 countries, with the U.S. and China being their two largest markets. In the U.S., the wines are imported by Quintessential Wines and have been distributed for about a year in Massachusetts by Classic Wine Imports. Interestingly in China, Matetic needs to sell their wines, primarily reds, in only Bordeaux-style bottles as the Chinese dislike wines in Burgundy-style bottles. Just a strange quirk.

Matetic produces two different lines, Corralillo and EQ. "Corralillo," which means "corral," is also the name of a century old wine cellar and winery, located in the Rosario valley, which once produced wine from Mission grapes. The label has a stylized horse, which reflects some of the ancient art found in nearby caves. Corralillo wines are intended to be younger wines, easy to drink, with plenty of fruit expression. "EQ" stands for equilibrium, wines where they seek a balanced harmony of vineyard, climate, and winemaking. On the label, there is a Mapuche symbol for balance. EQ wines are intended to possess more depth, complexity, and weight as well as reflect terroir.

For the tasting, we had four pairs of wines, a Corralillo and EQ of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. Overall, my favorites were the Syrahs with the Pinot Noirs taking second place. All of the wines are reasonably priced, pair well with food, and are indicative of the potential of Chilean wines.

The 2012 Corralillo Sauvignon Blanc is from a vineyard in the San Antonio Valley, located about 12 miles from the Pacific ocean. It was fermented in stainless steel and sat on the lees,without stirring, for 4-5 months. It is fresh, clean and crisp with flavors of grapefruit and citrus, lacking any grassy notes. The 2012 EQ Sauvignon Blanc (about $16), is from a vineyard in the Casablanca Valley, located about five miles from the ocean. The vineyard yields about 30% less than the San Antonio vineyard, and is also a much cooler area. It too sits on the lees, but they are stirred during the ageing period. This creates a more complex and richer wine, with grapefruit and tropical fruit flavors as well as some herbal notes and minerality. For the amount of complexity, I think this is a good buy. These wines pair well with seafood, including oysters, ceviche and raw fish.

The 2009 Corralillo Chardonnay ($20), from Casablanca Valley, was 70% fermented in French oak, 10-15% new, and then spent ten months in the barrel. Matetic only uses French oak for their wines. It is crisp and dry, with prominent fruit flavors of lemon, pear and green apple. Simple and pleasant. The
2009 EQ Chardonnay ($25), from San Antonia Valley, comes from two vineyard blocks, one on a hillside facing North and the other facing South. It is barrel fermented, about 25-30% new, undergoes longer barrel ageing, and about 50% malolactic fermentation. This wine had a richer mouth feel with flavors of honey, peach, green apple and pineapple. The oak presence is noticeable but muted, and in subsequent vintages, they will be using less oak and less malolactic, seeking to rely more on the fruit. This wine would pair well with richer foods, such as salmon, tuna, bacalao, or a creamy pasta sauce.

Curiously, though Chile possesses a lengthy coastline, and the opportunity to catch plenty of seafood, many Chileans do not eat much seafood because it is too expensive. Instead, they eat far more chicken, beef and lamb. While in Chile, I enjoyed some delicious Patagonian lamb, though one of my favorite dishes was a Crabmeat & Cheese Pie (pictured above). That would have went very well with the EQ Chardonnay.

Onto the red wines....

The 2010 Corralillo Pinot Noir ($20-$22), from the San Antonio Valley, comes from 6 blocks in the vineyard and each block is fermented separately, in open top tanks. Wild yeasts are used, and once blended, the wine ages for 10-11 months in the barrel, about 15% new. With a deep purplish-red color, this is a more fruit forward Pinot, with plenty of red and black cherry tastes, complemented by a mild spicy backbone. It lacks any off-putting green/vegetal notes, which I have previously encountered in some other Chilean Pinots. At this price point, it delivers well.

The 2009 EQ Pinot Noir comes from the same region but a different vineyard, which has a lower yield. It spends about 12 months in the barrel, 30% new, and also possesses a dark purplish-red color. It possesses greater concentration and complexity, with deep red and black fruit flavors, including cherry, raspberry and ripe plum, and more prominent spicy notes accompanied by a mild earthiness. It is well balanced with a lengthy, satisfying finish and is an excellent example of how well Chile can make Pinot Noir in the right region. Highly recommended.

Matetic's main fame comes from Syrah and based on my tasting, it is well deserved. Though it should be noted that Syrah, for some strange reason, can be a tough sell in the U.S. Australian Shiraz has sold well in the U.S., but California producers have often had difficulty selling their Syrah wines. So, Matetic choosing Syrah as their signature grape is in someways a courageous decision. However, if that is the grape which does best in their vineyards, then that is what they should grow. Personally, I enjoy Syrah wines and don't see why others wouldn't enjoy them too.

The 2009 Corralillo Syrah ($25), produced from a low yielding vineyard, spent about 12 months in the barrel, 35% new. Dark in color, this is a deep and spicy wine, with juicy black fruit flavors, restrained tannins, and some floral notes. There is more elegance than power to this wine and it went great with the steak I had for dinner. It is a wine made for meat, from beef to lamb.

The 2008 EQ Syrah ($40), which had been opened earlier that morning, and generally should be decanted for at least two hours, is a blend of mostly Syrah, with a littlebit of Cabernet Franc and Malbec. It also spent 12 months in the barrel, 55% new, and had an alchohol content of 14.5%, though this was a hot vintage and it is usually 14%. Arturo also suggested that the wine should be cooled down a bit in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes before drinking. This is a bigger and more complex Syrah than the Corralillo, with lots of spice and flavors of ripe plum, figs and violets. Beneath these prominent flavors, there are also hints of others, intriguing tastes that enhance the melange. Despite its power, it still retains elegance and restrained tannins, accompanied by a very lengthy finish. This wine also went great with my steak. Highly recommended. Get over your aversion to Syrah and explore the wonderful wines that this grape can produce.