Thirst Boston: Terroir & Merroir

"Terroir," a sense of place, is a hot word in the wine world, however it applies elsewhere as well, such as food. Honey, cheese, mushrooms and more can possess a unique sense of place. We can even extend the concept to merroir, the effect of the ocean on seafood like oysters. Besides food and wine, you can even find some spirits which possess the potential for terroir, being reflective of a specific place. At Thirst Boston, one of their seminars dealt with some of these issues.

The seminar, Location, Location, Location: Terroir & Merroir, was held at the Island Creek Oyster Bar and led by Tom Schlesinger-Guidelli, the General Manager at Island Creek, and Misty Kalkofen, a noted mixologist and the Brand Ambassador for Del Maguey Mezcal. They led us through a discussion of terroir and merroir, as well as a tasting of wine, rhum agricole, mezcal, coffee, chocolate and oysters. Tom and Misty were informative and fun, the seminar was well attended,and the setting of the restaurant was a nice touch.

Terroir was said to include vintage, land, air, water, and temperature though there was a disagreement between the two presenters whether the human element should be considered part of terroir or not. Misty felt that it should though Tom had some doubts. For myself, I believe that it includes the human aspect, though that is probably too complicated and lengthy of a discussion for now. Tom and Misty also mentioned that "terroir is an opportunity," indicating that choices in the production of food or drink can obscure and eliminate terroir. Not all wines indicate terroir and that is largely due to the choices made during the wine making process, such as whether heavy intervention is conducted. So, though we may not agree that the human element is part of terroir, it is clear that human intervention can obscure terroir.

A limited number of spirits were said to have an opportunity for terroir, including Brandy, Cognac, Armagnac, Rhum Agricole, Scotch, Mezcal and Tequila. Personally, I would add that other spirits may have that potential as well, including even something like Vodka. For example, I believe that Karlson's Vodka, an unfiltered, Swedish vodka that is made from several different varieties of virgin potatoes, and grown in a specific area of Sweden, can show terroir. However, most other vodkas probably do not show terroir.

As for food, we enjoyed a couple Island Creek Oysters, from the waters off Duxbury, which possess a briny flavor that is indicative of the ocean where they are grown. The water's temperature, salinity, mineral components, and more all contribute to the taste of an oyster so that oysters grown in different parts of the ocean will possess unique tastes.

We also snacked on some Taza Chocolate Cacao Puro Chocolate Mexicano, which is made from a single origin Dominican cacao and organic raw sugarcane. An entire seminar could be devoted to the differences of cacao from various regions.  

There was even one nonalcoholic drink tossed into the mix, coffee from Jim's Organic Coffee. Tom mentioned that the lighter the roast, the more likely the coffee will possess terroir. The coffee that was provided was a Guatemalan Atitlan, an organic single origin coffee. Coffee is another beverage which may or not show terroir, dependent on numerous factors of how it is produced.

I've visited the Collio region of Italy, located in the northeast and bordering on Slovenia. At one point on my trip, I ascended a mountain on the border and as I traveled up the windy path, I passed in and out of Italy and Slovenia. I could even stand and have a foot in both countries. The land on both sides is similar and the estate of the Movia Winery actually occupies land in both Slovenia and Italy. As the winery is physically in Slovenia, the wines receive the appellation of Brda, and not Collio. The estate was purchased in 1820 by the Kirstancic family, and it is currently run by Ales Kirstancic. Ales produces "natural" wines, wines intended to reflect terroir, and you will find them very different from many other wines you are used to. I've had Movia wines before and I am a fan of their unique style. At the terroir seminar, we tasted two Movia wines, each intriguing and tasty.

The 2005 Movia "Puro" Rosé Sparkling Wine is made from 100% Pinot Noir, spending four years in large Slovenian oak barrels and two years in the bottle. Interestingly, the wine still contains the lees and you must disgorge the bottle on your own. Nearly every other sparkling wine in the world is already disgorged before the bottle is offered for sale. For Ales though, he feels that the wine is alive, and should continue to develop in the bottle until that last moment when you open it. It doesn't contain any preservatives, but the lees and natural yeast are supposed to give this wine longevity. In the picture above, you can see Tom disgorging the bottle. I have disgorged a sparkling wine before, and it is not that easy if you have never done it before but I appreciate and respect the intent behind this wine. The wine is delicious, with crisp acidity, a light effervescence, clean red fruit flavors and hints of a briny finish.

The 2008 Movia Sivi Pinot is made from 100% Pinot Gris, which has aged for 18 months in large French oak. It was an intriguing white wine, with crisp, clean flavors and touches of peach and citrus, minerality and a light smokiness. A richer wine with plenty of complexity and a lengthy finish. Would be a great wine for Thanksgiving.

We next moved onto Rhum Agricole, a type of rum from the French West Indies that is distilled from sugar cane juice rather than molasses. That makes it more similar to Cachaca rather than Rum. The island of Martinique has an AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée), the only one of its kind, and that tends to support that terroir is potentially involved.

In 1887, Homere Clement, a physician and mayor, purchased a 43 hectare sugar plantation, Domaine De L'Acajou, and transformed it into a Rhum producer, Clement Rhum. We tasted their Première Canne, which was fairly smooth with an interesting herbal taste and a bit of sweetness. It seemed a bit simple though.

On the other hand, Rhum J.M., which was founded in 1845 on Martinique, produced a more complex Rhum Agricole Blanc, with an intriguing and layered blend of herbal, tropical fruit and citrus flavors. I was also introduced to a new tasting term, hogo, which roughly means "high taste" and refers to a certain funky flavor of rum and Rhum that is reminiscent of roasted game meat or something fermented. I didn't think this Rhum possessed hogo, but others might find that flavor there.

From sugarcane to agave. I feel that Mezcal is under appreciated and that Tequila gets all of the positive press, despite the fact they both are agave products. Mezacl, derived from a Nahuatl word meaning "cooked agave," is produced from the pina, the heart of the agave plant. Unlike Tequila, Mezcal can be made from over 30 types of agave, though the most commonly used is the espadin. There are Mezcal distilleries in most of the states of Mexico, and it is often hand crafted by small producers, known as palenques. Known as the "slow food of distilled spirits" as agave takes so long to mature, the pinas are roasted in the earth and the type of wood, from mesquite to oak, used will impart flavor to the mezcal. Because of this roasting Mezcal also always possesses a smoky aspect.

Del Maguey, founded in 1995, produces 100% certified organic single village Mezcal using traditional methods and made by individual family producers. For Mezcal, apparently altitude of the agave leads to significant differences in taste. We began with the Chichicapa, from a low altitude, that had a mild, smoky taste with a little sweetness while the Tobala, from a higher altitude, was smokier and less sweet, with tropical fruit flavors on the finish. The Tobala also possessed more complexity and a greater depth of flavor. Drink more mezcal.

Ten Things You Should Know About Southern Oregon (Part 2)

(Continued from Part 1)

5) Southern Oregon lacks a singular grape/wine identity.
The Willamette Valley is best known for Pinot Noir but Southern Oregon is still seeking what will be their signature grape or wine. They currently grow at least 70-80 different grapes and the region's climate and soils allow them to grow nearly any grape that exists. About 70% of the grapes they grow are red, with some of their top planted grapes including Pinot Noir (about 20%), Syrah (about 11%), Merlot (about 11%), Pinot Gris (about 10%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%).

Two of the more exciting grapes making their mark in this region are Viognier and Tempranillo, which a couple winemakers told me should be the signature grapes of Southern Oregon. However, those two grapes currently constitute only 3% and 4% of plantings, respectively, so they still have a long ways to come before becoming signature grapes. Plantings of different grapes continue, and currently Rhone grapes are starting to become more popular. One problem is that though the wine makers often chat and cooperate on an individual level, there really isn't a large, industry based group which would meet to discuss regional issues, such as what might best be a signature grape.  

6) Southern Oregon has numerous microclimates.
Though Southern Oregon is generally considered a warm-climate region, it possesses about 70 microclimates, and includes cool-climate areas. It occupies a similar latitude as sections of northern Spain, including parts of Ribera del Duero and Rioja, which probably is a reason why Tempranillo does so well here. The region also has four distinct viticultural zones, including Northern Umpqua Valley, Umpqua Valley, Rogue Valley and Illinois Valley. Much of the region has large diurnal to nocturnal temperature changes, which is good for certain grapes. Those grapes don't metabolize acid as quickly, as the cold temperatures help to shut down that process. Vintage variation is also significant in this region, and an important factor that winemakers must address each year. It is something that consumers need to realize as well, that vintage will play a far greater role in Southern Oregon than it usually does in California.

7) Greg Jones is one of Southern Oregon's most valuable assets.
Greg Jones, a professor and climatologist at Southern Oregon University, has been a valuable asset to the wineries of Southern Oregon. In 2009, he was listed as one of Decanter's most influential wine persons and that honor is well deserved. He has consulted all around the world, including a terroir assessment of the Douro in Portugal. In Oregon, he helped to create the Southern Oregon AVA and conducted extensive grower surveys from 1998-2001. Then, in 2003, he established a presence at 29 Southern Oregon wineries to monitor climate, phenology, yield, fruit sampling, and much more. These surveys and studies have greatly benefited the region, providing much valuable information for the wineries, allowing them to better understand their terroir. His invaluable assistance has been instrumental in the growth of the Southern Oregon wine industry. His family is also involved in the region, owning the Abacela Winery. More wine regions need someone as passionate, dedicated and intelligent as Greg Jones.

8) Southern Oregon has plenty of sustainable vineyards.
Oregon has a long history of sustainable agriculture and is even the center for Demeter USA, the Biodynamic certification organization. About 47% of Oregon's vineyards are certified sustainable, and that number is growing, which you can also compare to the only 12% of California vineyards. Supporting Oregon wineries is thus good for the environment too. About 5% of Oregon wineries are certified Biodynamic, though only one winery in Southern Oregon, Cowhorn Vineyards, is so certified. It seems likely that other Southern Oregon wineries will eventually move to Biodynamic as it is a growing, albeit slowly, trend in Oregon. A concern for the environment extends to most, if not all, of the wineries in Southern Oregon.

9) Wine tourism in Southern Oregon needs assistance.
One obstacle to making Southern Oregon wines more popular is that wine tourism is not fully supported by the region. The primary problem lies with restrictive laws which severely limit what wineries can construct on their property. As these wineries and vineyards are considered by law to be farmland, it is extremely difficult for them to add a restaurant or inn to their property. These laws probably hurt the region far more than they help, by limiting wine tourism which would bring more income to the area. Look at most wine region destinations around the world, and restaurants and hotels/inns at the wineries contribute to their popularity. It can even be a safety issue, where tourists who taste wines at several wineries, and could possibly be intoxicated, would be able to dine at a restaurant, or get a room at the winery rather than drive elsewhere to seek them.

10) Southern Oregon needs more wines under $15.
In general, Oregon wineries focus on producing higher end wines, costing $20 and over. As such, a significant number of consumers find Oregon wines to be too expensive for every day consumption. For Southern Oregon, which currently lacks the fame or singular identity of the Willamette Valley, it thus becomes much harder to penetrate the market. Fortunately, at least a few producers in the Southern Oregon region are starting to address that issue by producing wines that cost less than $15, catering to maybe the largest consumer market. For example, the Valley View Rogue Red, pictured above, is a red blend that sells for around $10 a bottle. Hopefully, we shall see more value priced wines from Southern Oregon, as well as the rest of Oregon too.

Ten Things You Should Know About Southern Oregon (Part 1)

The "3 Ps" of Oregon are Portland, Precipitation & Pinot Noir.

Greg Jones, a climatologist at Southern Oregon University, made the above statement, stating it was a common belief in Oregon. Pinot Noir and Oregon is such a famous combination, a singular identity that is known across the world, elevating the Willamette Valley to being the most recognizable American Viticultural Area (AVA) in Oregon. With over 300 wineries and 610 vineyards, accounting for nearly 75% of Oregon's wine production, the Willamette Valley seems to get almost all of the attention and publicity.

Most consumers probably couldn't identify another Oregon AVA besides Willamette. They might not even realize that there is Oregon wine made outside of the Willamette. However, consumers should learn about the other Oregon's AVAs, especially Southern Oregon, which has much to offer outside of the realm of Pinot Noir.

Recently, I traveled to Oregon, as part of a journalist trip sponsored by the Oregon Wine Board, and was accompanied by two other wine writers, Erin Guenther and Michael Cervin. From Medford to Portland, we visited both Southern Oregon and the Willamette Valley, tasting plenty of wine, meeting numerous wine makers, and enjoying the bounty of local cuisine. It was harvest time at most of the wineries, one of the earliest harvests in years, so it was a great time to visit, to see the wineries in operation. It was also an extremely busy time for the wineries, and my gratitude goes out to all of those who took some of their precious time to meet with us. Though I knew the Southern AVA existed before I journeyed there, my experience with the wines from this region was very limited so I was eager to learn more about this area and to sample the wines they produce.

The Southern Oregon AVA has five sub-AVAs, including Rogue Valley, Umpqua Valley, Red Hill Douglas County, Applegate Valley and Elkton. Though Southern Oregon is generally a warm-climate region, it possesses about 70 microclimates, and includes cool-climate areas. The region has over 65 wineries and 230 vineyards, and its history with wine extends back over 150 years. In fact, Southern Oregon is the locale of several vinous firsts for Oregon, including the first grape vineyards, the first Pinot Noir plantings, and the first commercial winery. Willamette Valley may be more famous, but the importance of Southern Oregon to the wine industry should not be forgotten.

Around 1847, Henderson Luelling, a horticulturist from Indiana (who also spent ten years in Iowa), moved to the Rogue Valley in Oregon and planted the first grapes, as well as numerous other fruits. When he initially departed for the Oregon Territory, he took with him around 700 fruit trees and berry bushes, hoping to eventually plant them in the Oregon soil. That was quite a large burden to transport across half the country and he ended up losing about half of them on route. However, he had enough trees and plants left to successfully plant a number of orchards, including apples, cherries and pears. As there were few other orchards in Oregon at that time, Luelling eventually became wealthy due to his plantings. It is also interesting to know that Luelling's brother, Seth, developed the Bing Cherry.

Luelling and his son-in-law, William Meek, planted the Isabella grape in Oregon, an American hybrid grape that may have been developed in South Carolina in 1816, though there is some disagreement over its actual origin. It is alleged that Leulling and Meek won a medal for one of their Isabella wines at the California State Fair in 1859. That might be the first Oregon wine to win a medal at any wine competition, and it might not have been until 1904 that another Oregon wine would win a competition medal.

In the 1850s, Peter Britt, a Swiss immigrant and photographer, came to the Oregon Territory because of gold fever. Though his primary income was through photography, he tried his hand at mining as well. A man of eclectic interests, he also was intrigued by horticulture and took time to plant orchards, such as pears and peaches, and eventually even grapes. He planted his own vineyards in the Rogue Valley, also eventually establishing, in 1873, the first commercial winery, the Valley View Vineyard, in Jacksonville.

In 1859, Oregon became an official state and took a census the next year, noting that annual wine production was approximately 2,600 gallons, or roughly 1000 cases, though that probably includes both fruit and grape wines. About twenty years later, Peter Britt alone would be producing 1000-3000 gallons of wine, which he sold locally for only 50 cents a gallon. Britt is also responsible for planting over 200 types of grapes, both vinifera and labrusca, in the Rogue Valley, experimenting with their suitability to the region. He might have even been the first person to plant Pinot Noir in Oregon.

Unfortunately, in 1916, Oregon instituted Prohibition, four years prior to the federal ban, and it would last until 1933. In essence, it destroyed the burgeoning wine industry and it would take nearly thirty years after the lifting of Prohibition before the industry started to rebound. In the late 1950s, Richard Sommer, a UC Davis graduate and often referred to as the "Father of Oregon wine," established the HillCrest Vineyard in the Umpqua Valley. In 1961, he planted the first documented Pinot Noir vines in Oregon, releasing his first Pinot Noir wine in 1967. The first Pinot Noir vines wouldn't be planted in the Willamette Valley until 1965. Sommer planted other grapes too, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Zinfandel. This would herald the start of the modern wine industry in Oregon.

However, the main interest for vineyards and wine production seemed to now center in the Willamette Valley, forged by pioneers such as David Lett, Charles Coury, and Dick Erath, who planted their vineyards in the 1960s. During the 1970s, new vineyards were established in the Rogue Valley though growth was relatively slow. By 1987, there were only 5 wineries and 38 vineyards in the Southern Oregon region though by 2009, there were over 40 wineries, with 113 vineyards.

In 1984, the Umpqua Valley was the first region in Southern Oregon to be declared an AVA. This was the same year that the Willamette Valley was declared an AVA. The Rogue Valley would become an AVA in 1991, though both the Umpqua and Rogue would be subsumed in 2004 under the larger Southern Oregon AVA. The newest sub-AVA in Southern Oregon is Elkton, which was declared in 2013.

My understanding of Southern Oregon has been expanded and enhanced through my visit to this region. At this time, I want to present a list of Ten Things You Should Know About Southern Oregon, to give you a foundation of some important items so that you can better understand this largely under-appreciated region and its wines. I would also recommend that if you travel to Oregon that you should take some time to visit Southern Oregon, and don't just spend all your time in the Willamette Valley.

1) Southern Oregon is breathtaking.
Upon my arrival in Medford, Oregon, and throughout my time in Southern Oregon, I was struck by its natural beauty, the landscape largely dominated by mountains and forests. Majestic mountains, thrusting high into the clouds, and lush wooded areas that seemed to extend to the horizon. It invokes a sense of serenity and wonder, inflaming a passion for nature. And as we drove through the area, we saw plenty of animals being raised, including horses, cows, sheep, goats, llamas and emus. There are also many wild animals in the region, including bears, mountain lions, deer, turkeys and more. We onlu saw some turkeys. You'll feel a real connection to nature in Southern Oregon and that alone makes a visit to this region worthwhile.

2) The Southern Oregon wine industry is still relatively young.
Despite its lengthy history, with several vinous firsts, the modern wine industry in Southern Oregon is still relatively young, especially when compared to the Willamette Valley. There is only a small number of wineries, though some of the wines they are producing are excellent. Talking to a number of wine makers, it seems clear that many are still trying to work out which grapes work best, what type of wines to create, and more. It is a time of experimentation, discovery and learning. There is much potential here and continued growth is probably a given. They have only scratched the surface with their vineyards, and up to another 250,000 acres could possibly be planted. I love the excitement and passion of new wine regions, and I foresee Southern Oregon gaining much respect in the near future.

3) Southern Oregon wineries are small operations.
The 40+ wineries in this region are generally small, many producing less than 5000 cases and those few wineries producing around 20,000 cases feel that they are large, though most others outside the region wouldn't. Because of their small size, it can be difficult to find their wines outside of Oregon. As they lack the cachet of Willamette Valley, these wines are much more of a handsell, and require a large investment of time and effort for marketing and sales by the winery, especially outside of Oregon. Not all wineries can afford that time and effort, so they concentrate their efforts just within the state. In time, if these wineries grow larger, then maybe it would be worthwhile for more of them to market to areas outside off Oregon. So if you want to experience their wines, you generally need to visit the region.

4) There are plenty of passionate wine people in Southern Oregon.
I met such a diversity of people involved in the wine industry Southern Oregon, from enthusiastic young people to older people who also possessed great enthusiasm. A number of them were transplants, from other states or even countries, who sought out Oregon for their wine careers. Others were starting second careers, having retired from a range of other occupations, and a number of them had never worked in wine before. What brought them all to Southern Oregon was a passion for wine. They certainly weren't there to make a fortune, and they generally seemed satisfied to make an adequate living from their wineries. There is a lack of pretension in this region, and there is also a sense of collaboration between the wineries, that they are friends rather than competitors. It is a real pleasure to meet and chat with these fine people.

To Be Continued...

Altos Las Hormigas: Malbec Is Unimportant?

The winemaker from Altos las Hormigas, which specializes in wines made from Malbec, told me that the grape was unimportant.  Why would he say that?  Isn't he denigrating the very grape that his winery relies upon?

Malbec, which is also known as Auxerrois, Côt Noir and Pressac, was first introduced into Argentina in the mid-19th century.  But, in 1995, few wineries were doing anything with Malbec, except using it as a blending grape, as they were concentrating on international varieties. It was at this time that two pioneering Italians chose to explore the potential of Argentina and believed they had found an excellent place to produce wine.  Others followed in their wake so that, presently, Malbec is the most planted red grape in Argentina and many wineries are making Malbec wines.

Back in 1995, Alberto Antonini, a Tuscan winemaker and former head winemaker at Antinori, and Antonio Morescalchi, a young entrepreneur, bought 216 hectares of land, and primarily planted it with Malbec. For the last 15 years, they have produced Malbec and Bonarda wines, generally inexpensive wines.  But now they feel they are ready to take it to the next level, which includes the belief that the grape is no longer important.

Last month, I was invited to a luncheon at Abe & Louie's, to meet Alberto and Antonio, as well as to taste their new wines.  I also had the opportunity later that evening to speak with Alberto and Antonio again at a small reception at the Elephant Walk.  It was a very informative day, and I was impressed with their ideas and wines.  Both Alberto and Antonio were clearly passionate individuals, devoted to producing the best wines possible and Alberto was clearly a lover of Malbec. As the U.S. accounts for about 50% of their market, it was important to Alberto and Antonio to present their wines to members of the Boston area wine industry.

We did not start with Malbec though.  Our first wine at lunch, with a Boca Chopped Salad topped by a Dijon Vinaigrette, was the 2009 Colonia Las Liebres Bonarda (about $10).  I have long been a fan of Bonarda, feeling it is an underappreciated grape which often produces good value wines around $10.  Hormigas started producing Bonarda in 2003, and is still learning and experimenting with it.  Bonarda requires a long growing season and needs sufficient sun to ripen properly so Mendoza has a very good climate for the grape. But due to its climate, it is much tougher to grow Bonarda in Italy.  I do know that I have much preferred the Bonards I have tasted from Argentina over those from Italy.  The Italian ones seemed much more rustic, with less fruit flavors, and just didn't impress.

This Bonarda wine sees no oak and has an alcohol content of 13.9%.  I enjoyed this wine, finding that it had excellent red fruit flavors, low tannins, some underlying spice and plenty of character for this price point.  It was easy drinking and would pair well with many different casual dishes, from burgers to pasta.  A great every day wine, this will appeal to most wine lovers. 

For the rest of the lunch, we would have three different Malbec wines, tasting the results of the winery's new endeavors. They see the winery as a laboratory and after fifteen years of experimentation, the winery has decided that Malbec is no longer important.  What they mean is that they will no longer focus on the grape, Malbec, but instead will now concentrate on terroir, a sense of place.  This is a more European attitude, and it is not surprising based on the fact the two founders are Italian.  They felt they needed the last fifteen years to understand the terroir of Mendoza, to most appreciate where Malbec grows best.

They consulted with Pedro Parra, a Chilean scientist who is the only terroir and soil specialist in South America, and discovered that soil profile and microzoning were the most important elements in producing excellent Malbec wines.  Altitude, vine age, canopy management and such were found to be of far lesser importance. So, the winery has been seeking out the best soils and microzones which can impart terroir and produce top notch, age-worthy wines.  Most of these areas have been found in ancient river beds, known as alluvial terraces.   

The winery sees Malbec as an indigenous Argentina grape as its expression is very different in France, due to their different soils, climates, etc. In addition to their concern about terroir, Hormigas is also moving towards organic farming as they feel it is better farming.  All of their grapes are hand-picked and they produce wines which are intended to be paired with food, especially their higher-end wines. Thus their wines need tannins and acids, though in balance.  

With my entree of a tender New York Sirloin and a side of Blue Cheese Mashed Potatoes, we had two of their new terroir driven Malbecs, including the 2009 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Valle de Uco Terroir (about $15) and 2006 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Vistaflores (about $80).  The sirloin was quite good, and a perfect accompaniement to the Malbecs. These Malbecs definitely benefit from being paired with food, especially a hearty steak. I also loved the taste of the potatoes, with that prominent sharp flavor of blue cheese which also accented well the sirloin. 

The Terroir, with a dark purple color, had an appealing spicy and floral, violets, nose.  On the palate there were flavors of black cherry, raspberry and spice, including hints of vanilla.  It had some complexity, moderate tannins, and a lengthy and satisfying finish. This is a very good value wine, as you get plenty of complexity and character for the price point.  It is a couple steps above the usual Malbecs you find from Argentina.

The king of the tasting was the single-vineyard Vistaflores, from a 2 hectare site, which spent 36 months in the barrel.  The winemaker feels that it could have easily remained longer in the barrel, and will keep the next vintage of Vistaflores in the barrel for 48 months. 2006 is considered the best vintage in the last ten years, and they won't make the Vistaflores every year.  In some respects, the Vistaflores had a similar flavor profile to the Terroir but ramped up several degrees.  There was more complexity in the wine, with more blackfruit flavors, additional spice notes and even a touch of minerality.  Great structure, well balanced, and with a very lengthy finish.

A very impressive wine, and this may be the best high-end Malbec I have ever had.  It is worth the high price and Hormigas is working on producing other single vineyard wines.  If this is the result of all of their experimentation, then I consider it a big success and look forward to seeing more top notch wines from this winery. 

We ended the meal with a Selection of Cheeses, paired with the 2008 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Valle de Uco Reserva (about $22). It was aged in small French barrels for 15-18 months, and can age for ten years or more. It too was similar to the Terroir, but its quality was even better.  It also had a touch more earthiness to the taste, which appealed to me. Another wine I would recommend.

I deeply respect the concept of Altos Las Hormigas, their desire to concentrate on terroir rather than the grape.  They have taken the time and effort to discover what best produces Malbec, and their studies and experimentation continue. They were pioneers fifteen years ago, producing Malbec wines, and are pioneers once again, introducing more terroir driven wines to the region.  Malbec from Argentina has long been seen as a relatively simple and inexpensive wine, yet it is clear it can also produce complex, high-end wines too.

As Altos Las Hormigas says, forget the Malbec grape and instead, concentrate on the terroir.