Tiki Rock: The BYOB (Bring Your Own Blender) Cocktail Competition

Five Frozen Rum Cocktails pitted against each other. Which one would prevail as the winner? Which bartender's creation would impress the most? 

Last week, at Tiki Rock on Broad Street in Boston, the B.Y.O.B. (Bring Your Own Blender) competition was held, where five local and talented bartenders were invited to create frozen cocktails, using Appleton Estate Rum. The event was organized by Curtis McMillan, the General Manager at Tiki Rock, who is also a professional bartender with over 20 years of experience. He recently published, The Mischievous Mixologist: A Hardcore Hospitality Book, a fascinating cocktail book which blends  "hardcore punk culture with the art of mixology." 

The public were invited to the contest, to sample the cocktails, and vote for their favorite frozen concoction. There were also three official judges, who got to vote as well. Curtis invited me to be one of these three judges and I was joined by two well-experienced bartenders, including Van Hongthong of Row 34 and Palmer Matthews of Dotty's Kitchen & Raw Bar and Pearl & Lime. It was great to hang out with the other two judges, comparing and contrasting the various rum drinks. It was a fun evening overall. 

Each contestant kept busy with their blenders, creating frozen treats for all of the guests. It was fun to watch each bartender carefully craft their cocktail, listen to how they prepared some of their ingredients, and understand their inspirations. They were all very personable and I appreciated their obvious passion. However, hard decisions had to be made, and I had to vote for my top two favorite cocktails. 

The Winner of the BYOB Competition, as well as my own personal favorite, was created by Sean Leonard of Pearl & Lime. The Pura Vida, which is Spanish for "pure life," was inspired by Sean's recent honeymoon in Costa Rica. "Pura Vida" is a common saying in Costa Rica, exemplifying their outlook on life, a sense of positivity. I found this cocktail to be smooth, complex and fruity, a satisfying drink which immediately brought to mind the tropics. It was well balanced, and the alcohol seemed more subdued, a nice accent rather than overpowering. I could easily picture myself, lying on the beach, and enjoying several of these cocktails. Congratulations to Sean! 

In Second Place, as well as my own second choice, was the Marcy's Playground cocktail created by Matt Tetrault of Wusong Road. Chocolate flavors played an important role in this cocktail, balanced with sweet and bitter notes. Complex and tasty, it possessed bolder flavors and it's something I'd enjoy mostly after dinner, an accompaniment to dessert. 

The other contestants included Ben Meahl, of the Somerset Club, with his The Good Ship Appleton cocktail. Topped with whipped cream and pineapple, this was the simplest of the five cocktails, but it was a pleasant drink, and the addition of the Calvados was a nice choice.

Anissa Santiago, of Bootleg Special, presented a Mai Sweet Jerk, a spicy frozen cocktail which left you with a nice, spicy-hot aftertaste rather than presenting that heat on your initial sip. The other flavors of the cocktail showed well, although I think it might have benefited from a bit more sweetness, to better balance out the cocktail. 

Graeme Piette, of Spy Bar, created the Day-O (Banana Boat) cocktail. My favorite element of this cocktail was the foam atop it, made with absinthe orange vanilla angostura. It was a delicious and unique taste. The rest of the cocktail was pleasant too, with nice spice notes. 

Many thanks to Curtis for inviting me to be a judge, as well as to the five skilled contestants for exhibiting their mixology skills. It was a fun and tasty night, and the guests that evening seemed to enjoy themselves very much. 

The Birth & Evolution of the Mai Tai

The famed Mai Tai! It’s considered a classic “Tiki” drink, fairly potent, and commonly found in many Chinese-American restaurants, especially those with a Polynesian aspect. I’ve consumed many a Mai Tai, and they often taste very different from place to place. In addition, their garnishes usually vary, from pineapple slices to tiny parasols.

What is the origin of this cocktail? How did it become so famous? And how has it evolved over the years? Let’s explore the first twenty years of the Mai Tai’s history, a period when this cocktail became popular and evolved from its original roots.

According to the Smuggler's Cove: Exotic Cocktails, Rum, and the Cult of Tiki by Martin Cate & Rebecca Cate, the Mai Tai was invented by Trader Vic Bergeron in 1944 at his Oakland restaurant. One day, he was making drinks for two Tahitian friends, and created a new rum cocktail. His friends loved it, and one declared, "Maita’i Roe A’e," a Tahitian phrase which roughly translates as “Out of This World—The Best.” Thus, the Mai Tai was born.

This first Mai Tai was composed of J. Wray & Nephew 17 year old rum (from Jamaica), orange curaçao, rock candy syrup, orgeat, and lime juice. Over the years, and as Trader Vic expanded his operations across the country, he had trouble sourcing the original J. Wray & Nephew rum, so the recipe was altered, a few different times, using a variety of specific rums.

According to California Tiki: A History of Polynesian Idols, Pineapple Cocktails and Coconut Palm Trees by Jason Henderson and Adam Foshko, the specific original recipe for the first Mai Tai was 2 ounces of 17-year-old J. Wray & Nephew Rum, the juice of 1 lime, ½ ounce Holland DeKuyper Orange Curaçao, ¼ ounce Rock Candy Syrup, and ½ ounce French Garnier Orgeat Syrup. All of this was poured over shaved ice, and garnished with a sprig of fresh mint and a spent lime shell.

For the first approximately nine years of its existence, the Mai Tai didn’t appear to make any significant splash across the country. It was primarily a local drink, which received little, if any, newspaper coverage during that period. Unless you lived near Oakland, or traveled there, you might not have even known the Mai Tai eisted.

However, in 1953, the Mai Tai began its climb to fame. All it took was relocating the cocktail to a tropical paradise, to the lush and alluring Hawaii.   

In 1953, Vic Bergeron was hired by the Matson Steamship Lines, which had started running passenger service from California to Hawaii around 1908. Vic was employed to create cocktail lists for their passenger ships as well as the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, at Waikiki Beach on O'ahu Island.

The first newspaper reference I found concerning the Mai Tai was the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, February 4, 1953. The article noted Trader Vic had recently created the new drink menu at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel. It also mentioned that Trader Vic’s favorite drink was the Mai Tai, a “heady concoction with a rum base.” So, the Mai Tai was seen from the beginning as a potent drink, a sentiment which would be common going forward throughout the years.

During the 1950s, Hawaii became a popular travel destination, a tropical getaway, and it would spawn the popularity of the Mai Tai across the country. Tourists who enjoyed the Mai Tai while vacationing in Hawaii wanted to recreate the cocktail at home. Other restaurants and bars across the country also began creating their own versions of the Mai Tai, trying to capitalize on its popularity. If the Mai Tai had never been brought to Hawaii, it might never have become such a classic drink. 

The San Francisco Chronicle (CA), June 6, 1954, discussed the Mai Tai at the Royal Hawaiian, which cost $1.25, and stated it was a “.., sophisticated blend of rums and lime juice with its swizzle stick of fresh sugar cane to munch between sips.”

Then, the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, June 26, 1956, mentioned that prior to Trader Vic bringing the Mai Tai to Hawaii, the “...only tropical drink you could buy was a Planter’s Punch.” So, Trader Vic filled a void, bringing the Mai Tai and other Tiki drinks to Hawaii. 

However, the Mai Tai seemed like it was a bit slow to initially catch on. The Honolulu Advertiser, October 31, 1956, printed that Hawaiian tourists “...go for fancy drinks such as the Mai Tai, scorpion or Tonga. But so seldom are these ordered that sometimes even a seasoned bartender has to check his mixing manual.” So, it doesn't appear the Mai Tai was an instant hit, but it grew in popularity over time.

There were a couple brief mentions in 1956 and 1957. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, November 6, 1956, noted, “A mai tai is a rummy sort of chemistry, the inspiration of Mr. Trader Vic.” While the Lansing State Journal (MI), April 24, 1957, stated the “sugar cane mai-tai” was available at the Surf Room of the Royal Hawaiian.

The Mai Tai began becoming available at other places in Hawaii, besides those owned or consulted by Trader Vic. The Independent (CA), May 15, 1958, printed an advertisement (pictured at the top of this post) for the Lafayette Hotel & Lanais, which stated, “Intestinal Fortitude? Try our potent Mai Tai..a mighty drink in any clime, prepared with 15-year old Jamaica Rum. $1.50.” 

The Press Telegram (CA), June 1, 1958, had a similar ad, also mentioning that the Outrigger was a lounge in the Lafayette Hotel & Lanais. This ad started, “Got guts? Then you’ll love to try a Mai Tai (two’s the limit) oodles of rum and tropical fruit.” This might be the first reference to a restaurant/bar which restricted your Mai Tai consumption to only two because of its potency.

Another potency comment. The Los Angeles Times (CA), May 19, 1958, stated that, “A mai tai, I find out later, is about 14 different shades of rum mixed together and ‘diluted’ with a float of liqueur to smooth it out.” This might be the first reference to a "float" of alcohol added to the top of a Mai Tai. The original Mai Tai recipe didn't include a float, so this was a variation invented at some point, one which also became popular. 

Mai Tais moved beyond California and Hawaii, to Louisiana. The Times-Picayune (LA), October 3, 1958, published an ad for the Pontchartrain Beach Comber Restaurant, which asked diners to “try a Mai Tai cocktail.”

Maybe the first Mai Tai recipe provided in a newspaper was printed in the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, February 7, 1959.  The recipe began, “This is for one drink only. Sip it s-l-o-w-l-y and lose track of time!” The ingredients included 1 ounce rhum negrita, 2 ounces Ron Rico white or gold rum, the juice of 1 lemon or lime, 1 dash of Orange Curacao, 1 dash of Falernum, ½ ounce of simple syrup and pineapple juice if desired. Then, add a handful of crushed ice and shake furiously. Pour it over a glass of crushed ice and garnish it with pineapple, mint, orange, an orchid and a gardenia. 

We can see this is different to some degree from the original Mai Tai recipe, especially concerning the possible addition of pineapple juice. Plus, all of the different garnishes, which would seem to have overwhelmed the drink, were a new addition, the original recipe calling only for mint and the shell of a lime.   

The Mai Tai’s popularity grew. The Muskogee Daily Phoenix (OK), April 17, 1959, reported on a luau party at a New York City penthouse. “There were tall frosty glasses of Mai Tai, the newest popular cocktail hour beverage in Honolulu.” It continued, “Mai Tai, should anyone ask you, is a mixture of orange curacao, orgeat, fresh lime juice, and Jamaica rum served in glasses with lots of crushed ice.” This is much closer to the original Mai Tai recipe.

Besides all the fruits and flower garnishes in some Mai Tai cocktails, this reference might be the first appearance of the paper umbrella. The Mt. Vernon Register-News (IL), August 19, 1959, mention that at a party in Mount Vernon, Illinois, they served a “…Hawaiian Mai-tai drink served with tiny colorful parasols peeping from the glasses.”  

The popularity of the Mai Tai seemed to reach new heights during the early 1960s. For example, the San Francisco Examiner (CA), January 10, 1960, reported that at the University of Hawaii, “…students plan Mai Tai parties where a mixture of rum and tropical fruit juices is served.”

There were continued warnings about its potency. The Daily Independent Journal (CA), February 26, 1960, mentioned, “…a Mai Tai, which has the innocent look of a fruit punch and the countdown of about three martinis.”

The variations of the Mai Tai recipe started to multiple as well. The San Diego Union (CA), March 4, 1960, noted that at a recent Polynesian party, the Mai Tai was served, “...made with mango juice and five other juices, rum fortified.” This is the first I've seen of the addition of mango juice to the cocktail.

In Los Angeles, the Mai Tai was available. The Mirror News (CA), June 7, 1960, wrote a review of the drinks at the Kowloon in Los Angeles, mentioning, “Not to sip a delicious rum concoction with Cantonese delicacies is like bypassing wine with a spaghetti dinner.” This seems indicative that the Mai Tai had started to spread to Cantonese restaurants. The article continued, “Most popular Kowloon exotic drink is ‘mai tai’ ($1.75). It means ‘the best’ in Tahitian, contains 15-year old Demerara rum and tropical fruit juices. It’s potent.”

Vegas too now sold Mai Tais. The Las Vegas Review-Journal (NV), June 9, 1960, stated that at Aku Aku, you could order a Mai Tai. The article mentioned, “It’s one of the most popular drinks from the West Indies. Mai Tai means “the best” in Tahitian and it contains 15-year-old Demerara rum and tropical fruit juice.” It's obvious they didn't understand that the Mai Tai didn't originate in the West Indies. The article continued, “...two of these and you will want to trade places with Clyde Beatty.”

Even in Ohio you could find the Mai Tai. The Columbus Dispatch (OH), August 18, 1960, discussed Johnson’s Restaurant, an “...oriental restaurant with a particular beautiful Hawaiian atmosphere.” You could get a Mai Tai “which anybody who has been to Hawaii will remember.”

Another Mai Tai recipe, and a variation from the original. The El Paso Herald-Post (TX), September 19, 1960, provided a recipe, which was made with 1 ounce fresh lime juice, ¾ ounce simple syrup, 2 big jiggers of light rum, and ¾ ounce orange curacao. It was then topped with 1 ounce of dark rum, and garnished with a fresh pineapple stick and 2 small sprigs of mint.

A Mai Tai without the rum? The Plain Dealer (OH), November 19, 1960, discussed the Midway Motel, which had just opened the Trade Winds Lounge and MaiKai dining room. Their version of the Mai Tai was radically different. “The Mai Tai has a bourbon base, crushed orange, lemon and ice, and is served in a cocoanut shell.” Bourbon and not rum? Some variation may be expected, but omitting the rum probably means this cocktail needed a name change.

More Mai Tai recipes and their variations. The Honolulu Advertiser, November 27, 1960, printed a recipe that started with a brandy snifter of shaved ice. You then added dark and light rum, in equals parts, with Meyer’s Rum and topped it with curacao. Then, you squeezed some lime juice over it and served it with a straw. The Chicago Daily News (IL), December 8, 1960, called for a frosted glass. Then, you mixed together 1 ounce Jamaica rum, 1 ounce white Puerto Rican rum, 1 ounce lime juice, ½ ounce curacao, 1/2 ounce simple syrup, and ½ ounce orgeat. This was much closer to Trader Vic’s original recipe.

And one more Mai Tai recipe. A writer for the Providence Journal (RI), December 31, 1960, printed that “…the mighty Mai Tai, a memorable tipple, indigenous, I understand, to the South Seas and other branches of Paradise.” Obviously this is incorrect, that the cocktail was an American creation, with no real connection to the South Seas. The writer visited Hawaii, and tasted several Mai Tais, such as the one at Hirams on Waikiki Beach, which was made with three kinds of rum, pineapple juice, and a topping of brandy.

At Fort De Russey, the writer met Eleanor Ito, a female bartender well known for her Mai Tai cocktails. Ito provided her recipe, stating, “Into a high-speed mixer went two and one-half ounces of fresh unsweetened pineapple juice, one ounce of lemon juice, one and one-half ounces of dark run, one and one-half ounces of light run, four dashes of grenadine, and three dashes of curacao or cointreau—.“ Then, you poured the mixture into a tall glass and added a huge slice of pineapple. 

And the Mai Tai recipes continued. The San Francisco Chronicle (CA), January 4, 1961, printed a Mai Tai recipe. First, fill a double old-fashioned glass with shaved ice. Then, squeeze in 1 small lime and drop in half the shell. Add ½ teaspoon each, orange curacao and simple syrup, and 2 ounces of light rum. Next, float 1 ounce of dark rum on top and garnish with a sprig of mint and a pineapple stick.

Mai Tai and Chinese cuisine. As I mentioned earlier, you can often find the Mai Tai at numerous Chinese restaurants. One of the first references to such was in the Los Angeles Times (CA), April 9, 1961. There was a mention of Wan-Q, a Cantonese restaurant, but whose drinks, including the Mai Tai and Zombie, were more “South Seas.”

More advice about creating a Mai Tai. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), April 23, 1961, spoke with Henry Loui, the proprietor of The Kalia Gardens, who provided advice on the Mai Tai, as well as his own recipe. The article stated, “The mai tai is deceptive to drink, as well as to prepare.”

It continued, “Loui’s theory is that ‘Most people have trouble with the rum. They either use too much or too little. The mai tai is a drink you build.” The recipe then stated that you first put crushed ice in your mai tai glass or brandy snifter. Then, you pour over the ice 1 ½ ounces orange juice, 1 ½ ounces pineapple juice, 1/3 ounce Orgeat syrup, a dash of orange Curacao, juice of half a fresh lime, and 1 ounce light rum. Next, you stir the mixture and add, but do not stir in, 1 ounce of dark rum. Finally, you could add a shaft of freshly cut pineapple and garnish with an orchid blossom.

The Royal Hawaiian, where Trader Vic introduced the Mai Tai to Hawaii, provided their recipe to the Plain Dealer (OH), May 7, 1961. It stated, “Jigger light rum, jigger dark Jamaica rum, juice of one lime (and drop half shell in the glass. Dash of Orgeat syrup, dash of rock candy syrup, dash of orange Curacao. Garnish with sprig of mint, sugar cane stick, pineapple stick and fill with shaved ice.” This is very similar to the original Mai Tai Recipe, except for the extra garnishes. 

The article also discussed some the Mai Tai variations found in Hawaii. For example, “The Halekulani omits the tock candy syrup and floats the dark rum on top.” In addition, “Tiki Bob Bryant at the Tahitian Lanai uses light Peurto Rican rum and Lemon Heart Demerra rum on top.”

The potency comments continued over the years. The Los Angeles Times (CA). May 14, 1961, noted, “The thing that the visitor is cautioned to avoid in Hawaii is Mai Tai Madness. This is a rum drink that can be compared favorably with the atom bomb. It’s safe so long as you keep the ingredients separated.”

Mai Tai shirt? The Honolulu Advertiser (HI), October 8, 1961, published an advertisement for a new shirt by Ross Sutherland, “..an aloha shirt with a built-in back bar—picturing every wild Hawaiian drink from the Mai Tai to the Tiki Bowl—each in its distinctive bar glass—mug or bowl.” That would certainly be a fun shirt for the summer.

More potent Hawaiian Mai Tais. The Petaluma Argus-Courier (CA), October 27, 1961, reported that in Hawaii, “Don the Beachcomber’s will serve you a tall mai tai for a dollar and a half. Heavy sugar for a single glass, but it’s a big one, strong with rum and lots of others goodies. One will do the job of two or three martinis.”

And still more potency comments. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), November 26, 1961, printed, “The potent Mai Tai continues to be Hawaii’s leading potion for the visitor probably because it’s the Island drink most visitors have heard of, because the ingredients are somewhat native to Hawaii, and because it’s a good and interesting drink.”

Mai Tai perfume??? The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), March 18, 1962, discussed that Hawaii had a perfume industry, which started just before World War II, and was geared mostly for tourists and exports. The largest perfume company was Browny’s of Honolulu, which belonged to a husband and wife team, C.H. Browny and Straussy Brown. They had created a new perfume, called Mai Tai, which Straussy claimed was “absolutely intoxicating.”

More information on this perfume was provided in the Honolulu Advertiser (HI), December 19, 1962. The new Mai Tai perfume, which was said to be a perfect Christmas gift, was a “spicy evening perfume attractively packaged in a French flacon and boxed in sophisticated black and white.”

Mai Tais were so popular that a bottled Mai Tai mix now became available. Around July 1962, Don the Beachcomber introduced bottled mixes for the Mai Tai, Navy Grog and Scorpion. You just had to add rum. The Van Nuys News & Valley Green Sheet (CA), July 19, 1962, had an ad for the bottled Mai Tai mix, which cost $1.39 for a fifth. These were quite popular, and the Clarion-Ledger (Mississippi), August 9, 1962, reported Don the Beachcomber had sold over 92,000 bottles of its new mixers.

This same year, Trader Vic also started selling their own bottled Mai Tai mixer. The Daily Independent Journal (CA), November 7, 1962, printed an ad for their Mai Tai Mix, which cost $1.79 for a fifth, 40 cents more expensive than those of Don the Beachcomber. The ad also mentioned that you “Add Rum and Garnish with Pineapple & Maraschino Cherries." In addition, the ad noted you could also purchase Trader Vic’s Mai Tai Rum, which cost $5.99 for a fifth.

More Mai Tai creations. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), September 11, 1962, printed a Mai Tai recipe, except it was for Mai Tai Pancakes! The recipe called for you to start with a bowl of Bisquick, and then add some type of liquid, such as water, milk, ginger ale, or rum. Then, you added pineapple chunks to the batter, and once cooked, you served the pancakes with a mixture of ¼ golden rum and ¾ Vermont maple syrup.

Hawaiian rum? The Honolulu Advertiser, September 27, 1962, reported that Seagram and Sons had just opened a new rum distillery on Maui, noting that eventually, the Mai Tai could be made with Hawaiian rum. However, sales just didn’t develop and the distillery closed around 1969.

Another potency comment. The San Francisco Chronicle (CA), January 8, 1963, printed that, “The mai tai is a fruit drink with enough rum to blow coconuts off the tree.” 

Finally, the Boston Traveller, March 12, 1964, has maybe the first mention of a Mai Tai in Boston, at Bob Lee’s Islande, on Tyler Street in Chinatown.

So, this twenty-year period saw the Mai Tai rise from relative obscurity to become hugely popular in Hawaii, and that popularity then spread to the rest of the country. New variations of the original recipe seem to have overtaken the original, especially with the addition of various fruit juices that didn't exist in the original. It became so popular that you could even buy Mai Tai mix in a bottle and just add your own rum.

Today, the Mai Tai is a “Recognized Cocktail” by the Alcohol & Tobacco Tax & Trade Bureau (TTB).  A Recognized Cocktail is a " Mixed drink that has gained trade and consumer recognition, containing one or more class(es) and/or type(s) of distilled spirits with flavoring and/or coloring materials.” The Mai Tai is defined as “Rum and citrus juices, oils or natural citrus flavors.” That is an extremely broad definition, and nearly any rum and citrus juice cocktail could qualify as such. This definition seems to be indicative of how many variations of the Mai Tai now exist.

Who wants to drink a Mai Tai right now?

2017: Favorite Spirits, Sake, Cocktails & Drink-Related Items

What were some of my favorite spirits and drink-related items of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2017. I have already posted my Top Wine lists as well as Favorite Wine-Related Items. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Spirits, Sake, Cocktails & Drink-Related Items. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more spirits, Sake, cocktails and drink-related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Achievement in Spirits Writing: This year, I'm especially proud of my article, An Expanded History of Pechuga Mezcal, where my research uncovered a wealth of documented references to Pechuga Mezcal, a type of mezcal that has been flavored with meat, as well as maybe some fruits and spices. Prior to my article, there were bottles from the 1930s that were labeled Pechuga but there was no known documentary evidence prior to that time. However, I found over 30 different written references to Pechuga before the 1930s, extending as far back as 1864. There is still more research needed in this area, but I was pleased to contribute my efforts to expanding the known history of this fascinating type of Mezcal.

Favorite Whisky Dinner: A great theme, killer whisky, and delicious food all combined to make the  Robert Burns Scotch Dinner at Civic Kitchen & Drink a wondrous experience. It was my first Burns Night celebration and I marveled at the ritual, the toasting, and the intriguing food, including Haggis, which I actually enjoyed very much. There was plenty of Scotch, each unique in its own right, and all quite tasty and complex. The crowd was fun and it was more than just a simple dinner, but an intriguing experience and the memories will remain for a very long time.

Favorite Blended Scotch Whisky: This year, I've attended two Compass Box tasting events, though I've only written about one of them so far. However, it is clear to me that Compass Box and its owner John Glaser are producing some excellent blended Scotches. I've enjoyed most of the portfolio that I've tasted and am impressed with the diversity of their whiskies. Their limited edition Double Single thoroughly impressed it, a silky smooth, complex and well-balanced whisky with a fascinating melange of flavors. There were hints of vanilla and caramel, berries and tropical fruit, herbs and spices. Each sip seemed to bring something new to my palate. Highly recommended.

Favorite Irish Whiskey: Tullamore DEW, the "official Irish whiskey" of the Boston Red Sox, is offered at the Tully Tavern, in Fenway Park, especially in the Monster Mule, a variation of the Moscow Mule that is made with 1 part Tullamore DEW, 4 parts Ginger Beer, and lime juice. They have a nice portfolio of whiskies, but my favorite was the Tullamore DEW 14 Year Old Single Malt which is matured in the usual three types of barrels, but then also spends a little time in Port and Madeira casks. On the nose, there are pleasant notes of apple and tropical fruit, and the palate also presents this fruit flavors, accompanied by a complex mix of vanilla, spice and caramel, with an elegant creaminess that caresses your palate. The finish lingers for quite a time and I can easily see myself sipping this all evening.

Favorite Whisky Rant: It is an issue which deserves attention but seems unlikely it will acquire what is needed. In my Rant, Whisky, Sherry Barrels & A Lack Of Transparency, I discuss how a number of whiskey producers are using Sherry-style barrels, from outside the legal Sherry region, but those barrels are still be labeled as Sherry barrels. Sherry is a protected term and it should be respected and honored yet some whiskey producers are failing to do so. We need more people to know that this problem exists and then hopefully a united effort and get whiskey producers to change their ways on this issue.

Favorite Spanish Whisky: Have you ever tasted whisky from Spain? Spain isn't a significant producer of whisky but you may hear more about Spain in the near future if whisky like the Navazos Palazzi Malt Whisky becomes more well known. Produced from malted barley grown in Spain, the whisky spends about four to six years aging in Palo Cortado Sherry casks, which is definitely a rarity in the whiskey industry. This whisky presents with a nice, dark amber color and its complex aroma is enticing, a blend of harmonious fruits and spices. You could easily sit and enjoy the diverse nose of this whiskey for quite some time before taking a sip. Your palate will be seduced by the complex, and sometimes subtle, melange of flavors that caress and tantalize. It is sweet, briny and savory, with plenty of fruit, from apples to raisins, as well as lots of spicy notes. Honey, caramel, and malt with clear Sherry notes and a long and lingering finish that satisfies to the last wispy taste. It is elegant and compelling, unique and delicious, a well-balanced whiskey that will surprise and delight.

Favorite Unique Whiskey: At The Townshend in Quincy, Palmer Matthews, their Bar Manager, introduced me to Dry Fly Distilling Straight Triticale Whiskey, which might be the only straight Triticale whiskey in the world. Triticale is a hybrid of rye and wheat which was created in Scotland in the late 19th century. I enjoyed a shot, chilled by a single large chunk of ice, and found the whiskey to be intriguing, with a nice spicy kick up front, which then became soft and almost sweet. As I love Rye whiskey, I savored the spicy element of the Triticale, but also liked how the wheat softened it more on the finish. If you want something more unusual, but still quite tasty seek out this Triticale.

Favorite Maryland Rye Whiskey: During a visit to the Tenth Ward Distilling Company, I had the chance to taste a few of their products and I was most taken with their Lindsay Stunkle Rye Whiskey which is named after a famous Prohibition-era bootlegger from Frederick, Maryland. This limited-release whiskey is made from a mashbill of 80% malted rye and 20% malted barley, and comes in at a whopping 120 proof. It is released twice a year, in June and November, and is intended for home aging. It is spicy and potent, enhanced by the addition of a little water, and will definitely appeal to rye lovers. There is complexity to its taste and a lengthy finish, and I would love to see this aged in the barrel for a number of years.

Runner-Up Favorite Maryland Rye Whiskey: Also from the Tenth Ward Distilling Company, a more unique Rye whiskey is the White Caraway Rye, which is made from a mashbill of 80% malted rye and 20% malted barley, and comes in at 95 proof. The spirit is mashed with caraway seed so it is intended to taste more like rye bread, though it may also remind you of Scandinavian Akvavit. I was captivated by the intriguing flavors of this spirit, as it certainly reminded me of spicy rye bread, with a hint of mint. Though you could drink this on its own, I think it would be best used in creating some fascinating cocktails.

Favorite Gin: As I've said before, I'm not usually a fan of gin, disliking the over-powering juniper flavor I find in many, but I have enjoyed some that I felt were more well-balanced. Certainly a more unique gin, the Pierde Almas 9+ Botanicals is actually a hybrid Mezcal/Gin, using Mezcal as the base spirit and then adding nine botanicals, including juniper, coriander, star anise, fennel seed, orange peel, cassia bark, angelica root, orris root, and nutmeg. On the nose, the piney aroma of juniper is dominant though beneath that aroma were more subtle herbal notes. Once you taste it, the Mezcal elements make themselves known, and it is an intriguing and complex spirit. There are plenty of citrus notes up front, with an interesting melange of spices and herbs, as well as a smoky edge, especially on the finish. The piney notes of the juniper became much more integrated into the whole, and the other botanicals joined the complex mix. This is definitely a sipping spirit, which is quite enjoyable neat, and each sip seems to bring new flavors to your palate.

Runner-Up Gin: From the McClintock Distilling Co. in Maryland, their Forager Gin is a vapor infused New-World style gin using about 18 botanicals inspired by native herbs found in the Appalachian wilderness. On the nose, there is a strong juniper aroma with subtle hints of other botanicals in the background. On the palate, the botanical mix is more balanced, and the complex melange of flavors delights the mouth. There are elements of fruit, mainly citrus, and floral flavors, with a sprinkle of spice elements. The gin should be served chilled, and would be delicious on its own, or used in cocktails.

Favorite Rum: Rum actually has a lengthy history in the Oaxaca region, a place best known for Mezcal. However, little Oaxacan rum makes it out of Mexico, which is a shame. One of the recent exports is the stellar Paranubes Rum, brought to you by the good people of Mezcal Vago. Made from sugar cane juice, and not molasses, the Paranubes is made in a very traditional manner, the current producer being at least the 3rd generation in his family to produce this rum. Its aroma is very funky and prominent, with a saline character that reminds me of the smell of the ocean or an olive tapenade. The aroma doesn't follow through much on the palate, which instead brings a mild sweetness, a touch of grassiness, and some citrus and tropical fruit flavors. It is more light and elegant, with a lengthy and pleasing finish. It reminds me of a Rhum Agricole, and its distinctive and unique aroma and taste certainly sets it apart. The Paranubes can be consumed on its own though it also would work well in a variety of cocktails.

Favorite Unique Rum: From Navazos Palazzi, which also made the Spanish whiskey I previously mentioned, comes another unique spirit, a Cask Strength Rum, aged in Sherry barrels. The base rum had been distilled in the Antilles, where it aged for five years in ex-Bourbon barrels, and then given to a Spanish Sherry bodega, where the rum further aged in Oloroso barrels for 10 years. The color of this rum was deep and dark, though with some translucence, reminding me in some ways of an aged Oloroso Sherry. I was enamored with the complex aromas that wafted up, seducing my nose. There was fruit and spice, nuts and chocolate, and it was a pleasure just to sit and enjoy the aromas. On the palate, I was initially pleased with the relative dryness of the rum. It wasn't one of the prominent sweet rums but rather its sweetness was of a more subtle nature, with underlying caramel, vanilla and molasses flavors. And the complexity of the nose was duplicated on the palate, such a compelling melange of flavors that seemed to present something new each sip I took. There was a certain nutty and saline character that reminded me of Sherry, but also bright citrus and plum notes. There were plenty of spicy elements, with a backbone of umami, and hints of leather. Elegant and fascinating, this rum had a pleasing, lengthy finish.

Favorite Mezcal: Pierde Almas, which made the Mezcal/Gin hybrid mentioned above, is primarily a Mezcal producer and they have an amazing portfolio. My current favorite is their  Maguey de Lumbre Mezcal, made from a rare and little-known agave. The aroma is more subtle, with hints of citrus and smoke, and the first taste is pure gustatory pleasure, a hedonistic revel in the complexities and flavors of the Mezcal. This was a compelling Mezcal and once I started looking deeper, it only became even more intriguing. Citrus notes dominated the flavor profile but there was much complexity providing harmony to the spirit. There was also a mild smokiness, subtle herbal accents, and wispy spice notes. Just sit and sip it and you'll realize the fascinating complexity of this spirit. The taste was clean and smooth, an elegant pleasure, something to slowly savor on a summer evening, though you could certainly enjoy this year round.

Favorite Pechuga Mezcal: Pierde Almas also produced my current favorite Pechuga Mezcal, the Mezcal de Conejo, which is produced using a rabbit. Pechuga is a type of mezcal that has been flavored with meat, as well as maybe some fruits and spices. Once I tasted this Pechuga, I was immediately struck by the anise notes in this Mezcal and then I could detect the ripe fruit flavors, especially pineapple, a mild smokiness, and a touch of a more wild and gamey element. It was complex and intriguing, a unique melange of flavors which should please any Mezcal lover. You wouldn't know this Mezcal was made with rabbit, but it still would make for an interesting addition to your Easter dinner.

Favorite Shochu: Shochu, a distilled spirit made in Japan, can be made from many different ingredients though sweet potato is considered one of the best choices. While dining at Tori Shin in New York City, I thoroughly enjoyed a glass of Shochu, the Tenshi no Yuwaku, which is a sweet potato Shochu that was fermented in Sherry casks for about 10 years. This is a more unique Shochu as few are ever aged this long. It's name translates as "Angel's Temptation," a reference to the Angel's Share, the amount of spirit that evaporates over time while it ages in a barrel. I enjoyed it neat, finding it rich and creamy, with intense Sherry notes, hints of sweetness, and plenty of complexity.

Favorite New Liqueur: A collaborative effort between companies in Britain & France, the Escubac seems to have its roots in Ireland. It is a "juniper-free botanical spirit," made from a base of neutral sugar beet alcohol with the addition of 14 botanicals. After it is distilled, they infuse it with saffron and sweeten it with raisins, vanilla, and sugar. The Escubac has some sweetness up front but it wasn't cloying or overly sweet, and it was complemented with a mix of citrus and herbal notes, with intriguing spice notes and a touch of bitterness. I was pleased with its complex and intriguing melange of flavors, and it can easily be used in a variety of cocktails.

Favorite Baijiu: With many Americans, the Chinese spirit Baijiu suffers an image problem, often considered to have a terrible, off-putting taste. Though there are some Baijiu with very strong aromas and tastes, others have much lighter and appealing flavors and are worthy of attention. Made in New Zealand, Taizi Baijiu, the creation of two Chinese brothers, would be a great introduction to Baijiu for anyone. With its clear color, the Baijiu has an intriguing nose of berries and licorice, and on your palate, the berry flavors are very prominent upfront with more licorice notes on the finish. It has a slightly oily texture, but drinks very smooth and balanced, and you wouldn't realize its high alcohol content. There is an underlying complexity, more subtle notes, including some herbal elements, accenting the Baijiu. One of the best Baijiu I've ever tasted, I highly recommend it.

Favorite Chicago Bars: On a whirlwind visit to Chicago, I was fortunate to visit two cool and compelling bars, including Income Tax and Estereo. Income Tax, which has been open for a year, is cozy and elegant, with a lengthy bar and a casual, welcoming vibe. Their drinks list is diverse and interesting, and they carry some Sherry by the glass. Their food is also quite tasty, and is great for pairing with a glass of wine or a cocktail. Service is excellent as well, and it is the type of neighborhood bar you really should frequent. Estereo is also a neighborhood bar, specializing in spirits from Mexico, Central America, and South America such as Cachaca, Pisco, Mezcal, Tequila, Sotol and more. Great cocktails, incredible diversity in their spirits, knowledgeable staff, and a fun & lively atmosphere make this a great place to drink.

Favorite Sherry Bar: Taberna de Haro wins this category hands-down, once again, as there is no other local restaurant which comes close. With over 60 Sherries, including some rarer bottlings, Chef/Owner Deborah Hansen has compiled an amazing Sherry list, offering a good number by the glass. The Sherries pair very well with her Spanish cuisine and I could easily sit at the bar all night sampling different Sherries, from a bone dry Fino to a sublime aged Palo Cortado. If you are ever in the area, you must stop here and try some Sherry.

Favorite Restaurant Cocktail: The Schrodinger's Coupe is available at Sumiao Hunan Kitchen, which makes several other Baijiu cocktails too. The Coupe is made with Baijiu, curaçao, grapefruit, lime and plum bitters. It's Baijiu taste was accompanied by some sour fruit flavors with a hint of grapefruit. It wasn't overly sweet and was a refreshing summer drink.

Favorite Restaurant Hot Cocktail: While at a Burns Night dinner at Civic Kitchen & Drink, we began the evening with the Ginger Rabbie, a hot cocktail, made with Towiemore Classic Scotch, tea, molasses, and ginger. It was similar in some respects to a hot toddy, only mildly alcoholic, lightly sweet, and with a pleasing taste of tea and spice. Great for the winter.

Favorite Daiginjo Sake: The Kirin-Zan Junmai Daiginjo, which comes in a cool pentagonal blue bottle, is a superb Sake, elegant and complex, with such an alluring taste. It is clean and bright, with subtle citrus notes, some peach and melon, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. It is said to be "reminiscent of a clean mountain stream," and it possesses such a sense of purity, a Sake that pairs perfectly with nigiri. This is a Sake which impresses and I highly recommend it. Find it locally at Pabu Boston.

Favorite Junmai Ginjo Sake: I was impressed with the unique Hakkaisan Snow-Aged Junmai Ginjo, which spends three years in an insulated storage room chilled only by 1000 tons of snow! It is a Genshu, undiluted by water, and has a high acidity. I found the Hakkaisan to have a more subtle aroma and on the palate presented an elegant, deep complexity with hints of melon and a touch of anise. It was full-bodied and smooth with rich, savory umami. A hedonistic pleasure that is extremely food friendly. It can be found locally at Reliable Market.

Runner-Up Favorite Junmai Ginjo Sake: While dining at Torishin, a killer Yakitori restaurant in New York City, I ordered a carafe of Fukuju Junmai Ginjo and it was so delicious I had to order a second carafe. The Sake was simply superb, with a dry, clean and elegant taste with plenty of fruit notes. It was silky smooth, drank so easily, and I could have sat all night savoring this Sake. Highly recommended.

Favorite Kimoto/Yamahai Sake: The Suehiro Densho Yamahai Junmai Sake is produced from Gohyakumangoku rice, and is a typical Yamahai Sake, with delicious earthy notes, high acidity and plenty of umami. It is easy drinking, smooth, and complex with a hint of citrus, smoke, and sweetness. Simply a delicious Sake, which will pair well with many different foods, from mushroom risotto to a grilled steak.

Runner-Up Favorite Kimoto/Yamahai Sake: The Sohomare Tokubetsu Kimoto Sake has a high acidity and it was quite compelling, a mellow and smooth-drinking Sake with plenty of delicious umami. It has a richness to the mouthfeel, a lengthy and satisfying finish, and is something I could sit and drink all day. There is a mild earthiness to the Sake which enhances the totality. A well-made and delicious Sake, it would be an excellent pairing with umami dishes, especially mushroom or truffle-based ones, and would also go well with various meats.

Favorite Sake Store: It is difficult to find a local wine shop that carries a large and diverse Sake selection. However, Reliable Market, in Union Square, Somerville, has been enlarging their selection, and stock many of their Sake in refrigerated cases. You'll find plenty of Sake, of all types, in regular-sized bottles as well as half-bottles, at a range of price points. They also carry both local Sakes, Dovetail (from Waltham) and Blue Current (from Kittery, Maine). Reliable Market probably has the best and largest Sake selection in the Boston-area and you should check it out.

Favorite Sake News: Back in April 2015, I posted an article, An Expanded History of Sake Brewing in the U.S., which discussed the early history of Sake breweries in the U.S. My research for this article included combing through hundreds of old newspapers, picking out tidbits of information that hadn't been previously collected into a single resource. It was a fascinating exploration, expanding my knowledge of this topic, and revealing intriguing facts which contradicted what many previously believed. This year, a Japanese man, who runs a packaging company, wrote an article for a Japanese Sake journal based upon my article and I wrote out it in My History of U.S. Sake Breweries Inspires A Journal Article. And fortunately, I got to meet the author last month when he visited Boston, and we drank plenty of Sake together.

Least Favorite Sake News: In Ugh! More Stinkin' Scores For Sake From Wine Advocate, I express my displeasure at the Wine Advocate for continuing to provide "scores" for Sake. I've been ranting about this issue since 2013 but it is more recently that the Wine Advocate has started providing Sake scores on a more regular basis. Their main effect seems to be raising prices and they don't seem to be sparking much discussion or interest on Sake. Even on the Robert Parker bulletin boards, Sake discussion is all but nonexistent. The scores aren't really helping anyone, and are probably hurting more, so they should be eliminated.

Favorite Beer: I dislike most beer, as I am very sensitive to the bitterness of hops and that taste turns me off. Every once in a while though, I find a beer that does appeal to me. This year, I was impressed with the The Flying Dog "Heat Series" Shishito Rice Ale. This beer is brewed with Shishito peppers, a generally sweet Asian pepper where about one in ten is spicy. I found this beer to be light, crisp and refreshing, lacking bitterness and with just a whisper of spicy heat, mainly on the finish. There are some subtle malty undertones and a couple hints reminding me of a Sake. It would be an excellent beverage on a hot, summer day.

Favorite Cider: From the Asturian region of Spain, the 1947 Sidra de Nueva Expresion is
is a Petillant Semi-Dry Cider, produced from a blend of 14 apple varieties, all from their own orchards, with a rough breakdown of about 75% sharp, 15% bitter-sharp and the rest bitter-sweet. Fermentation occurs in an open chestnut vat, with wild yeasts, and I was quite surprised that they also allow it to mature in the open vat for about 12 months! The vats are old, some being as much as a hundred years or more, and are quite large, about 15,000 liters. It possesses a strong, appealing apple aroma and on the palate, it presents as mostly dry and crisp, with strong apple flavors and only the slightest hint of sweetness. It also has a  mild effervescence, enough to be a nice palate cleanser and excellent for food pairings, and a lengthy pleasing finish.

Favorite Pear Cider: For the second year in a row, this Asturian pear cider, the Viuda de Angelón Sidra de Pera is the winner. The pear trees are wild, organic and over 70 years old. Once the pears are picked, they are first fermented in stainless steel, with wild yeasts, and then mature for about four months in chestnut vats. Then, they undergo a second fermentation in the tank. This is an impressive Perry, with a harmonious blend of earthiness with subtle pear flavor and a mild effervescence. It is dry and refreshing, with lots of depth. It would be excellent on its own or paired with food, especially something with umami.

Favorite Non-Alcoholic Cocktail: At Sumiao Hunan Kitchen, they have several cocktails, and I was impressed with their Sumiao Citrus, which is made with white grapefruit juice, lemon, simple syrup, blood orange puree, and orange garnish. This was an interesting concoction, not overly sweet, and was quite refreshing. The fruit flavors blended well together, presenting a tasty melange of flavors. If you aren't drinking something alcoholic with your meal, then this would be a good option.

Favorite Non-Alcoholic Drink: Switchel used to be popular in New England in the 17th century, and now seems to be making a bit of a comeback. At Russell Orchards in Ipswich, I bought their version of Switchel, which is made from with apple cider vinegar, apple cider, maple syrup, ginger and water, with the vinegar and cider made on their premises. It is unpasteurized so needs to be refrigerated. The Switchel possesses a distinctive ginger aroma and it is prominent on the palate too. It is dry with a prominent vinegar aspect, subtle apple notes, and a ginger backbone. It is refreshing and I see how it can be quite refreshing on a hot day. Plus, it makes for a great cocktail ingredient.

Favorite Canned Non-Alcoholic Drink: At Gre.co, a fast-casual Greek restaurant on Newbury Street in Boston, they have a few canned drinks including the Tuvunu Greek Mountain Tea, which is made from Sideritis, an indigenous perennial. The tea is flavored with brown cane sugar, wild blossom honey, and fresh squeezed lemon juice. It was delicious, with only a mild sweetness, and pleasing tea notes and an herbal backbone. It is refreshing and you could easily drink can after can without feeling bloated or overwhelmed by sugar as you can be with soda.

What were some of your favorite spirits and drink-related items this year?

Paranubes Rum: An Oaxacan Treasure

"... aguardiente de cana (sugar cane brandy), which tastes not unlike New England rum."
--The National Tribune, February 05, 1903

Rum doesn't receive sufficient appreciation as a spirit, most often ending up in a cocktail rather than enjoyed neat. It isn't as revered as Scotch or as popular as Vodka. It isn't considered as intriguing as Mezcal or as compelling as Bourbon. However, rum possesses a fascinating history, is produced all over the world, and there is plenty of diversity in rum types and styles. Rum deserves far more attention and maybe the new Paranubes Rum can help in that regard.

Let's begin our exploration of rum by journeying back in time about 500 years...

By 1500, Madeira, a Portugeuse archipelago, had become the largest exporter of sugar in the world. Some years earlier, when Christopher Columbus was young, he received training in the Madeira sugar trade and that experience would later provide inspiration when he journeyed to the Caribbean. During his first journey, as he pondered ways to make money in these new lands, Columbus realized that the Caribbean islands would be an excellent spot to grow sugar cane. Thus, on his second voyage, in 1493, he allegedly brought sugarcane with him to plant in the Caribbean. There is some question whether that sugarcane died on route and if later explorers were actually the first to plant sugar cane in the Caribbean.

Whatever the truth, sugar cane soon became a common and popular crop throughout the Caribbean and also quickly spread to the continent, from Brazil to Mexico. During the first-half of the 16th century, the Spanish planted sugar cane in Mexico, and large plantations soon arose across the country. It didn't take long for people to start using sugar cane to produce alcohol and with the advent of distillation, the indigenous people eventually created their own version of sugar cane rum.

"El chinguirito es bebida venenosa, mortal, y destructiva de la salud de los indios, y el permitirla sería causa de la extinción de aquellos útiles vasallos." ("The chinguirito is poisonous, mortal, and destructive drink of the health of the Indians, and the permitting would be cause of the extinction of those useful vassals.")
--Memoria sobre las bebidas de la Nueva España, sus efectos y sus gravámenes excesivos by Francisco Leandro de Viana (1781)

This sugar cane rum, commonly known as aguardiente de caña, is mentioned at least as far back as 1631, in an official government prohibition. This indicates that sugar cane rum had existed for a number of years prior to the prohibition, though it might not have been documented until 1631. It would be around 1714 that this rum would also become known as chinguirito. 

During much of the 17th and 18th centuries, the production of chinguirito was illegal, primarily to prevent it from being competition for Spanish brandies and wines. However, government officials noted that it was extremely difficult to enforce the law as illegal distillation equipment was simple to create and hard for officials to locate. Finally, in 1796, Spanish officials relented and made the production of aguardiente de caña legal.

About a hundred years later, the El Paso Daily Herald, on April 7, 1899, reported on an official report from Mexico, the first to give "an exact and complete account of the amount and value of the agricultural products" of Mexico. The 1897 report provided some intriguing details on the alcoholic beverages being produced in Mexico, noting the following categories:
--Aguardiente de cana: 812,690 Hectoliters with a Value of $3,930,704
--Aguardiente de Pulque: 13,697 Hectoliters with a Value of $123,787
--Mescal or tequila: 399,281 Hectoliters with a Value of $4,135,377
--Pulque: 2,630,028 Hectoliters with a Value of $4,939,673
--Tlachipue 2,422,171 Hectoliters with a Value of $2,940,701

Note that a hectoliter is equivalent to one hundred liters. So, the production of aguardiente de caña was roughly equivalent to 108 Million 750ml bottles. As we can see, about twice as much aguardiente de caña was produced as compared to mescal and tequila, but the value of mezcal and tequila for a hectoliter was twice as much. The report also stated that "... the people of Mexico consumed 50 liters of alcoholic stimulants per capita in the year 1897, and spent per person $1.30 for their drink." It is clear that Mexico has a lengthy history of rum yet you hear very little about it. That needs to change.

There are two main types of rum, industrial (which is made from molasses) and agricultural (which is made from sugar cane juice), though over 95% of all rum is made from molasses and you may see a few rums that are a blend of both sources. In general, rums made from sugar cane juice tend to be more earthy and grassy, while molasses rums tend more to be fruity and nutty with baking spices notes. In general, French style rums, commonly referred to as Rhum Agricole, are made from sugar cane juice. As such, it is a terroir driven spirit, which molasses-made rums are not. When the sugarcane is harvested, the cane is crushed the same day, a fresh pressing. Rhum is not permitted to add anything to change the color, though other rums are permitted to add caramel.

Paranubes Rum, produced in Oaxaca, is similar to Rhum Agricole as it is made from sugar cane juice. Within the state of Oaxaca, the Paranubes is more specifically made in the region of the Sierra Mazateca Mountains, inhabited by the indigenous Mazatec (roughly translated as "people of the deer") people. The Mazatec are best known for their use of "magic" mushrooms, psilocybin mushrooms which create psychedelic effects, in a variety of rituals, for healing, and more. People in this region have also been producing aguardiente de caña for centuries.

Jose Luis, who creates Paranubes Rum, is aware that his father and grandfather produced aguardiente de caña, and it is possible additional ancestors may have done so as well. Jose grows four different types of sugar cane, though his rum is primarily made from Caña Criolla, a reddish African sugar cane which is common in the West Indies, with the addition of a small blend of the other types. Once harvested, the sugar cane is brought to the distillery, known as a trapiche, where it is crushed and the pulp is removed, leaving pure cane juice.

You should check out the Paranubes website for more detailed information on the fascinating distillation process, and you'll understand the uniqueness of what Jose does, as well as how much work is involved in the process. For more background on Jose, and how he came to the attention of Judah Kuper of Mezcal Vago, you should also read the intriguing article in Imbibe Magazine.

I've been attempting to locate the official Mexican regulations as to the production of rum and so far have only been able to find an alleged abridged translation. This page claims that Mexican rum "... should undergo a maturation process in oak barrels" and it must be matured for at least eight months.  If that is the case, then the Paranubes Rum would not qualify as a rum in Mexico as it was not matured in oak. However, I suspect the regulations may be different than what I've found and I will update this post once I locate more information.

(Update as of 10/19/2017): I'm providing an update to the above paragraph after receiving additional information from Judah Kuper of Mezcal Vago as well as some additional online research. First, Paranubes Rum is in accordance with the current Mexican regulations, as delineated in Oficial Mexicana NOM-142-SSA1/SCFI-2014. Second, the abridged translation I previously provided is part of PROY-NOM-199-SCFI-2015, which is a controversial proposal which has not yet become law in Mexico. Thus, there is currently no official Mexican regulation that Rum must be aged for six months. NOM-199 is controversial for many reasons, including how it attempts to regulate agave spirits, hurting small producers in favor of large corporate interests. There has been much opposition to NOM-199 and it is insure whether it will ever become law or not.

The Paranubes Rum ($49.99) is not yet available in Massachusetts, but on my recent visit to Chicago, I was able to find some at a wine & spirits shop. It safely survived the trip in my checked luggage and I recently opened a bottle to sample it. Its aroma is very funky and prominent, with a saline character that reminds me of the smell of the ocean or an olive tapenade. It's not a smell you would usually associate with the mountains of Oaxaca and I don't recall another rum with a similar aroma.

The aroma doesn't follow through much on the palate, which instead brings a mild sweetness, a touch of grassiness, and some citrus and tropical fruit flavors. It is more light and elegant, with a lengthy and pleasing finish. Though it is has a 54% ABV, you wouldn't know it from its well balanced taste. It definitely reminds me of a Rhum Agricole, and its distinctive and unique aroma and taste certainly sets it apart and you probably wouldn't confuse it with any other rum. To me, that speaks of the terroir of the Paranubes, that sense of place which gives the rum its uniqueness. The Paranubes can be consumed on its own though it also would work well in a variety of cocktails.

I made a cocktail with the Paranubes Rum and Switchel, as switchel and rum once was a commonly consumed combination. It made for an interesting and tasty drink, with the tartness of the switchel working with the fruit and saline of the rum. I'll be experimenting with the Paranubes in other cocktails in the near future.

I hope more Oaxacan rums come onto the market so that we can experience more of the terroir of this region. Paranubes Rum is exciting and different, delicious and compelling and you need to seek it out. Judah Kuper of Mezcal Vago already sells some incredible Mezcals and with this diversification, he continues in that vein with an incredible Oaxacan rum.

Ron Navazos Palazzi Cask Strength Rum: Aged In Sherry Barrels

While sitting at the bar at Troquet, I thoroughly enjoyed a superb Lamb Burger Slider, topped with lamb bacon, goat cheese feta, and harissa. As I savored this burger, I spied an intriguing spirit on a shelf behind the bar, knowing I had to taste it. I'd previously tasted other spirits from this company but hadn't yet sampled this one. I didn't fight the urge and ordered a glass.

Jesus Barquin & Eduardo Oreja of Equipo Navazos, known for bottling exceptional Sherries, partnered with Nicolas Palazzi of PM Spirits to produce a series of Spanish spirits, including brandy, rum, grain whiskey and malt whiskey. Last month, I reviewed the Navazos Palazzi Malt Whiskey and found it to be "...elegant and compelling, unique and delicious, a well-balanced whiskey that will surprise and delight. My highest recommendation!" I had high expectations for their Ron Navazos Palazzi Cask Strength Rum ($100-$110) and wasn't disappointed in the least.

The alleged origin story behind this rum is intriguing, though not all of the details area readily available. It is claimed that Jesús Barquín and Nicolas Palazzi were visiting numerous bodegas in the Jerez region, seeking either Brandy or Sherry. At an unnamed bodega, they stumbled upon numerous barrels of rum, certainly nothing they expected to find. Through further research, they uncovered that the rum was made from 100% molasses and had been distilled in the Antilles, though the specific island is not mentioned.

Initially, the rum was aged in the Antilles for five years in first-fill bourbon barrels. It was then sent to the bodega in Spain, payment for some unknown transaction. The bodega transferred the rum into used Oloroso barrels, where it sat for more than ten years. Barquín and Palazzi acquired 32 casks of this rum so it is a finite spirit. They have chosen to bottle it unfiltered and at cask strength, 51.5 ABV,  releasing 1500 bottles a year until the rum is gone. Currently, it appears they have released bottles in 2013 and 2014.

The color of this rum was deep and dark, though with some translucence, reminding me in some ways of an aged Oloroso Sherry. Sniffing the contents of the glass, I was enamored with the complex aromas that wafted up, seducing my nose. There was fruit and spice, nuts and chocolate, and it was a pleasure just to sit and enjoy the aromas. On the palate, I was initially pleased with the relative dryness of the rum. It wasn't one of the prominent sweet rums but rather its sweetness was of a more subtle nature, with underlying caramel, vanilla and molasses flavors. And the complexity of the nose was duplicated on the palate, such a compelling melange of flavors that seemed to present something new each sip I took. There was a certain nutty and saline character that reminded me of Sherry, but also bright citrus and plum notes. There were plenty of spicy elements, with a backbone of umami, and hints of leather. Elegant and fascinating, this rum had a pleasing, lengthy finish.

Highly recommended! I'll be buying a bottle or two soon.

2016: Favorite Spirits, Cocktails & Drink-Related Items

What were some of my favorite spirits and drink-related items of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2016. I have already posted my Favorite Wines, Favorite Restaurants and other related lists. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Spirits and Drink-Related Items. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. This is the first year that this category has been given its own post because I have tasted and reviewed a far greater amount of spirits, cocktails and other drinks this year. For more spirits and drink related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Spirits & Cocktail Event: For the third time, Thirst Boston is my favorite event, an excellent four day event dedicated to the diversity of spirits, cocktails and other drinks. There are a myriad of interesting and informative seminars, tasting rooms, parties and much more. The event is well organized, and everything generally runs smoothly and punctually. I always find it educational and fun, with lots of great drinks available. And a number of the spirits and cocktails I enjoyed at Thirst Boston can be found as other Favorites on this list. I highly recommend you check out next year's Thirst Boston.

Favorite Bourbon Book: Though I haven't yet written a formal review of this book, Bourbon: The Rise, Fall & Rebirth of an American Whiskey, by Fred Minnick receives my hearty recommendation. It is a fascinating historical look at Bourbon, presenting plenty of information you probably didn't know about Bourbon. As a history buff, I love this type of book, and as I also love bourbon, then this book is a double win. Fred has an excellent writing style, offering many interesting anecdotes about Bourbon.

Favorite Single Malt Book: Recently published, The New Single Malt Whiskey, edited by Carlo Devito, is an encyclopedic tome of over 620 pages and is dedicated to single malt whiskey from all over the world. It contains articles written by over 40 writers, covering 197 distilleries from over 25 countries, and reviews more than 325 whiskies. It is an excellent reference tool to explore single malts and will likely intrigue you in tasting many which are new to you. To be transparent, I did contribute a few articles to this book but I have learned much from the other writers in this hefty volume.

Favorite Cocktail Supply Shop: Once again, The Boston Shaker, located near Davis Square in Somerville, wins this category. It offers everything you need to create cocktails, except for the alcohol, including plenty of spirit & cocktail books, a wide range of bitters, shakers, stirrers, glasses, and so much more. They also run cocktail classes, book signings and other fun and informative events. It is an excellent place to purchase gifts for the holiday season for your cocktail loving family and friends.

Favorite Highland Single Malt Scotch: The Oban 18 Year Old Single Malt is produced by a tiny distillery, located in the Coastal Highlands and next to the ocean. This Scotch iss amazing, with a complex and harmonious blend of flavors, including baked orange, bold spices, a hint of smoke, caramel, and much more. Each sip seems to bring a new flavor to your palate. The finish feels like it won't ever end and it is the type of Scotch you would slowly savor all evening. It seduces your palate and will addict you as soon as you taste it. Highly recommended.

Favorite Speyside Single Malt Scotch: The Cardhu 12 Year Old Single Malt is similar to a number of Speyside Scotches, which tend to be fruity in taste. This Scotch has a delightful fruity flavor, ripe plums and figs, with an aroma of sweet Sherry. There are also some intriguing spice notes and a very lengthy and pleasing finish. This Scotch should appeal to many people and would be an excellent introductory Scotch to hook people on this category.

Favorite Islands Single Malt Scotch: Talisker Distillery is the only distillery on the Isle of Skye and it is a huge distillery, selling half of their product to Johnny Walker. The Talisker 18 Year Old Single Malt is certainly impressive, with a pleasing smoky aroma and a touch of brininess. The palate possesses a moderate peaty aspect, an interesting nuttiness and an excellent blend of sweet and salty flavors. So complex, with a lengthy finish, this is a killer Scotch which will satisfy anyone seeking a fine, peaty whiskey. Pair it with chocolate or oysters.

Favorite Solera-Made Scotch Whiskey: The Black Adder Black Snake VAT 3 Venom 2 Single Malt uses a Solera system that was started about two years ago. They remove about 2/3 of the whiskey from a barrel and then add new whiskey to refill it. It is either finished in Oloroso Sherry or PX Sherry barrels though this particular whiskey was finished in Oloroso barrels, which it sat in for about a year. Each time they remove some whiskey from the barrels, they label it as Venom, so this whiskey was removed for the second time. It is bottled at 114 proof and is strong and powerful but with an elegance that balances it. The flavors are intriguing, a melange of white pepper, honey, vanilla, fennel, floral notes, and hints of aged Sherry.

Favorite Irish Whiskey: The Quiet Man 8-Year-Old Single Malt Irish Whiskey is a blend of new and partially-aged Irish whiskey which finishes its aging at the Quiet Man warehouse. The 8-Year Old possesses a more savory taste profile with a pleasing nose of spice, smoke and floral notes. On the palate, it has a hint of sweetness, tastes of caramel and vanilla. Those sweeter flavors though were balanced by a spicy backbone and a hint of smoke. It drinks very smooth and is an Irish whiskey to slowly savor and enjoy, and during the winter, it would be welcome drink on any chilly night.

Favorite Irish Cream: The company behind The Quiet Man also produces St. Brendan's Irish Cream, which is named after a sixth century monk. It is made from all natural ingredients, from cream made from the milk of grass-fed cows to their own Irish Whiskey. Bottled at 34 proof, it has a richer butterfat content than many of its competitors. I was impressed with its taste, finding it light, creamy and only mildly sweet, far less sweet than Bailey's Irish Cream. It was delicious, without any artificial taste, and would be the perfect drink to cap off a night. I could easily see this in a cocktail, or even as the basis for a tasty frozen shake.

Favorite Rye Whiskey: I've been a fan of the Ryes from Whiskey Pig but their new Whistle Pig 15 Year Old Straight Rye just blew me away. The base of this rye is the 10 Year Old except it sits in the barrel for another 4.5 years and then is finished for anther 6 months in barrels of Vermont White Oak with a #4 char. This is a massively impressive rye, with such a phenomenal, complex melange of aromas and flavors. There is plenty of spice, caramel, butterscotch, vanilla, citrus, and even a touch of smoke. Every sip seems to bring something new to your palate and you won't want to quite sipping until the bottle is empty. It is a liquid aphrodisiac, decadently delicious with a sensual mouthfeel. I can't recommend it highly enough.

Favorite Unique Whiskey Blend: High West Whiskey Campfire, blended in Utah, is unique blend of a straight Bourbon, a straight Rye, and a blended peated Scotch (though the specific proportions is secret). All the whiskies used in this blend are at least five years old. On the nose, it has a complex and alluring aroma, with hints of spice, light smoke, honey, vanilla, and floral notes. As I took a hearty sip, I was amazed at the intriguing and complex procession of flavors that seduced my palate, proceeding from a sweet and fruity start, leading through a spicy middle and ending with a mild smokiness. Sweet, spicy and smoky. It was fascinating that you could easily see the influence of each different type of whiskey, none being dominated by any other. The more you concentrated, the more flavors you discovered in this superb melange, from caramel to citrus, leather to baking spices. Overall, it is a silky & smooth whiskey, with a long and lingering finish.

Favorite Gin: I'm not usually a fan of gin, disliking the strong juniper flavor I find in many, but I have enjoyed some that I felt were more well-balanced. Caledonia Spirits produces what may be my utmost favorite gins, two exceptional barrel-aged gins, the Barr Hill Reserve Tom Cat Barrel-Aged Gins. Their original spends about 4-6 months in new American white oak barrels tastes more like a whiskey than a gin, pushing the juniper flavor to a minimal element. There are honey notes, enhanced by a spicy aspect and hints of vanilla and caramel. The floral elements are also more of an undertone, and the overall taste is complex and intriguing, delicious and satisfying. Their newest release has been aged for about six months in Vermont white oak. I found this Gin to be softer and more subtle than the other barrel-aged Gin. It is fragrant and elegant, with plenty of complexity and exciting flavors. There is still a whiskey element in this Gin, with a very subdued juniper taste, but it certainly is a more unique spirit in its totality. I would only drink this on its own as in a cocktail, you might lose some of the subtle flavors of this superb Gin.

Favorite Spanish-Style Rum: The Mount Gay XO-Extra Old Rum is generally a blend of rums aged from 8-15 years old. The XO is complex and intriguing, a rum to slowly sip and savor. It is silky smooth with delicious flavors of ripe pear, vanilla, toast, and subtle baking spices. It is an elegant spirit with a lengthy finish which will be sure to satisfy and tantalize. You won't be able to take just one sip as your palate will crave more. This is a rum you should drink on its own and which you probably don't want to use in a cocktail. And at only about $40, this is an excellent value too.

Runner-Up Favorite Spanish-Style Rum: Diplomatico Rum, based in Venezuela, produces a number of excellent value rums as well as a couple of compelling high-end rums. The 2002 Single Vintage (about $95) is made from rum was aged for 12 years in ex-bourbon and single malt casks and then placed into ex-Oloroso Sherry barrels for another year. This rum presents an intriguing aroma of caramel, vanilla and salted nuts. On the palate, the taste is complex and intriguing, a fine blend of caramel, vanilla, honey, almonds, baking spices, and dried fruit. There are hints of Oloroso in the rum, especially on the lengthy finish. The Ambassador (about $260) is aged in used white oak barrels for 12 years and then spends another 2 years in PX Sherry barrels. This rum will remind you in some respects of an aged Port, presenting an alluring nose of red fruits and exotic spice. On the palate, there are more dried red fruit flavors, baking spices, more exotic spice notes, a touch of leather and a hint of herbs. Complex and fascinating, this is also a rum that would benefit from slowly savoring it on its own.

Favorite Agricole Rhum: This French style rum is made from pure sugarcane juice rather than molasses. As such, it is a terroir driven spirit, which molasses-made rums are not. The Rhum Damoiseau Blanc, which is made in Guadeloupe, is 110 proof, unfiltered and has been distilled only once. It is savory and vegetal, with a strong earthy aspect. There are only hints of fruit and it also possesses a long, earthy finish. I very much enjoyed the more unique flavors of this Rhum though it certainly wouldn't appeal to everyone.

Favorite Local Rum: Privateer, located in Ipswich, produces some delicious, limited edition rums, including Navy Yard and Queen's Share. Navy Yard is a single barrel rum, aged for at least two years in new American oak, and bottled at 102 proof. It is bold and delicious, with a nice complexity of flavors, including caramel, butterscotch, orange, almonds, vanilla and subtle spice notes. This is definitely a sipping rum, which will deliver new flavors in every sip. The Queen's Share is also a single cask rum, aged for about three years in new American oak, and bottled at 114 proof in very limited quantities. It is a blend of their other three rums and is a lighter, more elegant style than the Navy Yard. However, it still possesses a similar complexity with lots of fruit, honey, caramel, vanilla and spice notes.

Runner-Up Favorite Local Rum: In Vermont, Smugglers' Notch Distillery is a father/son partnership which distills a number of products. Their Rum is a single-barrel amber rum bottled at 105 proof. It is aged for about 3 years in charred white oak and then finished for another year in 4-year old ex-whiskey barrels. I was impressed with the complex and delicious flavors in this rum, which had some similarities to a fine bourbon. And despite its high alcohol content, you wouldn't notice it in this smooth and well balanced rum. Such tasty flavors of caramel, vanilla, and baking spices with a lengthy finish.

Favorite Tequila: Though the bottle has glow-in-the-dark lettering and symbols, the Suerte Extra Añejo Tequila isn't a gimmicky spirit. Many traditional methods, such as the tacoma, are used to produce this tequila. This is a single barrel tequila, made from 100% Blue Weber Agave, and aged in charred American White Oak whiskey barrels for 5 years. The tequila is a deep golden color with an enticing nose of roasted agave, vanilla, and citrus notes, On the palate, it presents a complex melange of flavors, including caramel, vanilla, orange, baking spices and roasted agave. It is smooth and delicious, with a mild bitterness on the finish, helping to balance the mild sweetness of the tequila. This is a tequila to slowly sip, savoring each intriguing taste, and it drinks so well you could sip it all night.

Favorite Mezcal: I delved a quite bit into Mezcal this year, and it is certainly a worthy endeavor. Check out my Mezcal Rant, 400 Rabbits Say "Drink More Mezcal. Tequila seems to get most of the attention but Mezcal deserves much more attention. Trying to select a single Mezcal as my favorite was a difficult task but I finally settled on one, the Mezcal Vago Tepazate.  The Tepazate agave, also known as Dub-Cual, is a wild variety which grows quite large and can take as long as 25 years to mature. This mezcal has an impressive and complex taste, with lots of smoky and earthy elements, plenty of herbal notes and hints of citrus and stone fruit. I could have sat there for hours sipping this mezcal, extracting subtle hints of other flavors as well. I have to mention that all of the Mezcals from Mezcal Vago, such as their Espadin, Elote, and Mexicano, are delicious and worthy of your tasting.

Runner-Up Favorite Mezcal: The Del Maguey Papalote is produce in the region of Puebla and only recently was allowed within Mezcal DO. Papalote is the Puebla name for the Tobala agave and Del Maguey wants to use the regional name out of respect for the region and family producing the Mezcal. This Mezcal is made in a traditional way, roasting piñas in a horno, fermenting in an open air vat, and distilled for about 35 hours in a copper pot still. This Mezcal is complex and intriguing possessing more of a floral aspect and fruit flavors of pear and apple. There is only a mild smokiness, and a very lengthy finish. This was an elegant Mezcal, another one which you will want to slowly savor with good friends.

Favorite Mezcal Bars: Everyone knows about the local Tequila bars, but many people don't know where they can find excellent Mezcals lists. Thus, I created a list of Mezcal Bars in the Boston Area, defined as spots with 20+ Mezcals on their drinks menu. The list includes Tres Gatos in Jamaica Plain, The Painted Burro in Somerville, Lone Star Taco Bar in Allston & Cambridge, Ole Mexican Grill in Cambridge, and Ameluto Mexican Table in Waltham. Rosa Mexicano, in Boston, needs to be added to this list after their updated their drinks program, adding more Mezcals. If you want to explore Mezcal, and you should do so, then check out these bars.

Favorite Brandy: The Christian Brothers Sacred Bond Bottled-In-Bond Brandy, produced in California, has been produced in a single distillation season, by one distiller, at one distillery. In addition, it has been aged for 4 years in American white oak bourbon barrels, in a federally bonded warehouse, and bottled at 100 proof. I was very pleased with this brandy's smooth, flavorful taste. It is more full bodied, with delicious and bright flavors of red fruits and ripe plum, with mild spice notes and a vanilla backbone. There was even a hint of chocolate on the finish. Despite it being 100 proof, the alcohol was well integrated and there was only a mild heat at the finish, not what you might expect at all. With its full flavors and complexity, this would enhance any cocktail.

Favorite Local Sake: Dovetail Brewery opened in Waltham this year, making small batch Sakes, including the Nakahama Junmai and Omori Nigori. They use Yamada Nishiki rice, grown in Arkansas, which is considered the King of Sake Rice. These two Sakes are also Namazake, unpasteurized Sake. The Nakahama Junmai has a touch of sweetness and presents a smooth and fruity taste, some melon and pear. The Omori Nigori is a bit more full-bodied and sweeter than the Junmai, though it is far less sweet than many other Nigoris you will find. There is lots of fruit, a bit more tropical, flavors in the taste. Dovetail is available in numerous local stores and restaurants so seek it out.

Favorite Greek Spirits: I've previously discussed the compelling wine list at Committee but they also offer an intriguing range of Greek spirits, including ouzo, tsipouro/tsikoudia, and mastiha. The spirits are offered in various tasting sizes as well as tasting flights. The range of their Greek spirits presents plenty of diversity and most are designed to be either aperitifs or paired with food. For a long time, it is almost impossible to find these spirits at local restaurants but that is changing with the influx of new Greek restaurants. However, Committee is a great spot to learn all about these fascination spirits. Take and chance and expand your palate.

Favorite New Spirit: This year, I immersed myself in learning about Baijiu, the most popular spirit in the world! Yes, in there world as so many Chinese drink it in their native country. It is a fascinating spirit, produced in a unique process and I wrote eight articles about it this year. To start, check out Baijiu: The Durian Fruit Of The Spirits World (Part 1), which has links to the other articles. Baijiu is just starting to catch on with the non-Asian market and you will hear more about it in the coming years. Less than 10 Baijiu brands are currently available in the Boston area but many of them are good choices, and you will find a number of restaurants making Baijiu cocktails. Learn more about Baijiu and maybe you'll find a new favorite spirit too.

Favorite Baijiu: The Shui Jing Fang Wellbay Baijiu is produced at the oldest verifiable distillery in China, having been founded in the Sichuan province in 1408. This Strong Aroma Baijiu is made from a blend of 36% sorghum, and 64% other grains, including rice, glutinous rice, wheat and corn, and has a 51% ABV. The palate on this Baijiu presented an intriguing melange of flavors, including tropical fruits like pineapple and banana, with hints of licorice and some earthy notes. It was smooth and well balanced, with a lingering finish, ending with a slightly bitter note. With its earthy element, this wouldn't be the best Baijiu to introduce to a newcomer, but it also isn't overly earthy and I enjoyed it very much.

Favorite Sherry Bar: Taberna de Haro wins this category hands-down as there is no other local restaurant which comes close. With over 60 Sherries, including some rarer bottlings, Chef/Owner Deborah Hansen has compiled an amazing Sherry list, offering a good number by the glass. The Sherries pair very well with her Spanish cuisine and I could easily sit at the bar all night sampling different Sherries, from a bone dry Fino to a sublime aged Palo Cortado. If you are ever in the area, you must stop here and try some Sherry.

Favorite Restaurant Cocktails: Here is a short list of five of the best cocktails I enjoyed this past year.
   Chicha Sour: At Tico, they created several new cocktails for the Nikkei menu and the Chicha Sour is their a take on the classic Pisco Sour. It is made with Barsol Pisco, Chicha (a corn based beverage), and fresh lime. It is a mild drink of subtle flavors, a little sour and sweet (likely from the corn) with a soft flavor of Pisco. It goes down easily and you could drink several of these in the course of an evening.
    Bloody Marietta: At Committee, their variation on the Bloody Mary is the Bloody Marietta, made with vodka, olive tapenade, EVOO, rigani, basil, Tabasco, and a spicy feta stuffed olive. It was a savory and delicious variation, with intriguing olive notes, a mild spiciness and seemed lighter than other such cocktails. It went down very easy and makes you crave another.
     The New Frontier: At Wu Er Barbecue, the New Frontier ($11) is made with Hong Kong Baijiu, Tequila, Garam Masala, Lime Juice, Bell Pepper & Thai Chili. It is absolutely delicious, one of the better cocktails I've enjoyed as of late. The Baijiu takes a prominent role and is definitely evident in the drink, which is only mildly hot but with an intriguing spicy aspect. This cocktail pairs very well with their cuisine, including the five-spice & garlic chicken.
    We Can't Elope: Also at Committee, the We Can't Elope is made with Soul Cachaça, cucumber-cantaloupe syrup, and fresh lime juice. Bright and refreshing, you could taste the Cachaça, which was enhanced by the fruit flavors. It is a perfect summer cocktail.
    Roffignac: At A&B Burgers, the Roffignac, which was created for a Cajun dinner, is made with Courvoisier VS Cognac, Strawberry Cardamom Shrub, and Soda. It is a classic New Orleans cocktail, but seems to receive far less attention that many other cocktails from that city. It is mildly sweet with a little tartness, plenty of red fruit flavor and mild bubbles. This is an excellent and refreshing summer cocktail and is worthy of much more attention in the local cocktail scene.

Favorite Frozen Cocktail: At the Battle of the Burger, Chef Ming Tsai created a Dark & Stormy Granita, using Mount Gay Rum. It was a refreshing and delicious "slushy" and I wish I could have savored a large glass instead of the tiny paper cups it was served in. I like the Dark & Stormy cocktail, and its blend of ginger beer and rum, and this granita presented that blend in a frozen delight. I'm going to have to make these at home next summer.

Favorite Warm/Hot Cocktail: Committee wins another category with their Greek Rakemelo. This drink, which extends back to the 12th century, is commonly a blend of Tsipouro/Tsikoudia with honey, aromatic herbs and spices. At Committee, they create their Rakomelo with Tsikoudia, honey, clove and cinnamon and will serve it warm during the winter and cold in the summer. I tasted the warm version and it reminded me of hot, spiced apple cider without the apples. It was easy drinking, more savory and only minimally sweet, with plenty of flavors of fall spices. The alcohol was well hidden within the drink so you could easily finish one of the carafes without realizing how much alcohol you might have consumed. With the cold winter revving up, hot Rakemlo is going to be the perfect solution.

Favorite Cocktail Series: This year, I concentrated on one of my favorite cocktails, the Manhattan, writing a three-part series, including Then & Now (Part 1), Creating Your Own (Part 2), and Drink Up (Part 3). I delved into its history, how to create your own Manhattan at home, and provided some of my favorite Manhattans at local restaurants and bars. Though it may seem like a simple cocktail, it actually possesses much more complexity and its taste profile can vary dependent on how it is prepared. It is an excellent winter drink, though I enjoy it during the summer as well.

Favorite Beer: I dislike most beer, as I am very sensitive to the bitterness of hops and that taste turns me off. Every once in a while though, I find a beer that does appeal to me. This year, I was impressed with the Night Shift Harborside, is a Gose-style ale that was brewed with coriander and Island Creek Oysters. The Harbourside is a traditional Gose in many ways, being a top-fermented wheat beer and a 3.6% ABV. However, instead of adding sea salt or salted water, they produced the batch with the addition of about 350 live oysters to the wort a few minutes before the end of the boil. I found this beer to be crisp and refreshing with a bright lemon taste, mild coriander spice, and a strong briny element which I very much enjoyed. It made for an excellent summer drink, sour and salty, and lacked the bitterness I find in many there beers. Even if you think you don't like beer, you should taste the Harborside as it may change your mind.

Favorite Local Hard Cider: I've tasted plenty of hard cider this year so it was tough to decide on my favorites. The overall quality of local cider keeps improving and producers have been experimenting, making some intriguing variations. In the basic category, I'll give it to the Whetstone Ciderworks Orchard Queen, located in Vermont, which is made from a blend of apples including Lamb Abbey Permian, Orleans Reinette, Co'x Orange Pippin and Kingston Black. This is dry and crisp, with a strong tart apple flavor and mild citrus, but it also possesses an earthy element, a complex and intriguing aspect that appealed to me. I would pair this with other umami dishes, from sushi with soy sauce to mushroom risotto.

Favorite Local Flavored-Hard Cider: Another Vermont cidery, Citizen Cider produces over 10 different types of cider, a diverse portfolio of intriguing ciders. The Citizen Plum Intended is intriguing as it is made with Sake yeast, as well as co-fermented with macerated plums, from a local Vermont orchard. It is delicious, only mildly sweet, and has a subtle plum flavor overlying the crisp, apple flavors. This would be a nice food cider, maybe pairing well with some Asian cuisine.
 
Favorite Local Barrel-Aged Hard Cider: And from still another Vermont cidery, the Shacksbury WhistlePig Barrel-Aged Cider is a blend of about 90% bittersweet apples and 10% grocery apples, including McIntosh, Empire, Cortland, Dabinett, Somerset Redstreak, Browns, Michelin, and Ellis Bitters. With a 6.9% ABV and 1% residual sugar, this cider saw a slow, partial native yeast fermentation. Then it was aged in Whistlepig barrels, which were previously Sauternes barrels, for about six months. I found it to be more full-bodied and smooth, with a complex melange of flavors, including caramel, honey, vanilla, mild spices and some fruity notes, mostly apple but with some citrus and pear as well. It has only a small touch of sweetness and mild effervescence. A fascinating cider, I think this would be great with cheese.

Favorite Local Hard Cider Rosé: And from still another Vermont cidery (are you sensing a theme here?), the Eden Imperial Rosé is produced from heirloom apples, red currants, and a touch of ice cider. At 11% ABV, it is off-dry, with a mild effervescence, and is fresh and crisp with delicious apple and currant flavors, blending together well. It is tasty on its own, though would pair well with food too, and this would be great on your holiday table at Thanksgiving.

Favorite Local Unique-Hard Cider Product: Eden Speciality Ciders also produced two fascinating cider products, essentially an "Apple Vermouth" and an "Apple Amaro." The Eden Orleans Herbal Aperitif, similar in some respects to a Vermouth, is made with Vermont apples and then infused with organic herbs, with Basil and Hyssop being the primary herbs. On the nose, the cider presents an alluring aroma of herbs with apple hints and on the palate it is savory and interesting, blending apple flavors with floral notes, herbal accents and a touch of honey.  With a lengthy, satisfying finish, this is an intriguing and compelling cider, a unique blend which has lots of potential. The Eden Orleans Bitter Aperitif, similar in some respects to an Amaro, is a cider made with red currant, dandelion, angelica, and gentian. It possesses a complex and fascinating taste, with a potent bitterness, enhanced by more subtle hints of red fruit and apple. It too should be an excellent ingredient for a variety of cocktails. These are both unique, delicious, complex and versatile.

Favorite Apple Ice Cider: The Windfall Orchard, located in Vermont, is a small farm and produces the tasty Windfall Ice Cider, a blend of 30 varieties of apples, including 50% heirloom and 50% traditional cider apples. Some of the traditional cider apples include Roxbury Russet and Esopus Spitenburg. It has a wild fermentation as well as a secondary fermentation, with some ice cider as a dosage. It ends up with a 9% ABV and 15% residual sugar, and tastes mostly dry with good acidity. It has a prominent and complex apple flavor with savory notes. There are also notes of honey, dried fruit and almost ripe pear. An excellent dessert wine.

Favorite Spanish Cider: From the Asturian region of Spain, the Fanjul Sidra Natural is a traditional, unfiltered sidra made from a blend of Asturian apples, such as Clara, Blanquina, Raxo, De la Riega, Xuanina, Perico, Verdialona, Regona and Durona de Tresali. One of its only non-traditional matters is that the sidra is fermented in oak rather than traditional chestnut. This is a dry cider, with a strong earthiness, intriguing apple flavors, some nutty accents and some tartness on the finish. Such a delicious and compelling cider, and very different from most American-made ciders. I love its strong umami element, seeing some similarity to Kimono/Yamahai Sake.

Runner-Up Favorite Spanish Cider: Another Asturian cider, the 1947 Sidra de Nueva Expresion is a petillant semi-dry cider made in a more modern style. It is a filtered sidra, made from estate apples, and possesses a strong, appealing apple aroma. On the palate, it presents as mostly dry, with only the slightest hint of sweetness, with a mild effervescent, enough to be a nice palate cleanser. It has delicious apple flavors with a lengthy pleasing finish.

Favorite Pear Cider: Also from the Asturian region, the Viuda de Angelon Sidra De Pera is a sparkling off-dry pear cider, a perry. Using estate grown pears, this is an impressive and delicious cider, with a harmonious blend of earthiness with subtle pear flavor and a mild effervescence. It is dry and refreshing, with more depth than most perry ciders I have tasted before.

Favorite Fermented Maple Syrup: Produced by Fernleigh Cellars in Vermont, the the Maple Reserve Special Dark is is a unique fermented maple syrup and actually reminded me of a Sherry. It is well balanced and fascinating, delicious and complex. It reminded me of a sweet Oloroso Sherry with a sweet & salty taste, with nutty notes and even some minerality. The pleasing finish lingered for a very long time and I was mesmerized by the flavors in this wine, amazed that maple syrup could create something this good.

Favorite Non-Alcoholic Drink: At Tasting Counter, they offer a palate cleanser, the Schisandra Berry Tea, which is compelling made from an Asian berry sometimes called the five-flavor berry. The cold brewed tea is sweet and salty, sour and bitter. It is refreshing and delicious, a nice palate cleanser though it would probably pair well with various dishes too. I really want to make a Sake cocktail with this tea.

Runner-Up Favorite Non-Alcoholic Drink: At Asta restaurant, I also had an interesting palate cleansers, the Sassafras Float, made with Fennel Sorbet. This bubbly drink had hints of root beer but was more dry than sweet, with clean flavors that were amplified by the compelling fennel sorbet. Tasty and compelling, it is a fine palate cleanser though it too could pair well with various foods.

What were some of your favorite spirits and drink-related items this year?