The Return of Chicken Cock Whiskey

“The G.G. White Co. has shipped 180 barrels of eighteen year old Chicken Cock whiskey to Boston parties.”

--The Bourbon News (KY), April 1, 1898

Chicken Cock Whiskey was obviously extremely popular in Boston in the 19th century. Now that the brand has returned, how will it be received in Boston, and elsewhere? 

In 1856, James A. Miller built a distillery in Paris, Kentucky, starting the Chicken Cock Whiskey brand. Unfortunately, only a few year laters, Miller passed away, and George G. White, his former distillery clerk, purchased the distillery, continuing the brand. In 1880, he renamed the distillery to G.G. White Distillery, but also renamed the whiskey as the Old J.A. Miller Chicken Cock.

The earliest mention I found to Chicken Cock Whiskey in the newspapers was in an advertisement in The Times-Picayune (LA), November 20, 1862. The earliest mentions, for a number of years, were nearly all in Louisiana newspapers. One interesting mention was in The Louisiana Democrat (LA), January 20, 1869, in an ad which stated, “just received a fresh supply of the genuine Miller Chicken Cock Whiskey, an article that every body knows is good, when genuine, as this is.” It appears at this time there might have been counterfeit whiskey being passed off as the real thing. 

The Arizona Daily Star (AZ), June 1, 1880, printed an ad by the agents for J.A. Miller’s Chicken Cock Whiskey in Arizona and New Mexico. 

The Lowell Sun (MA), December 2, 1893, published an ad for the, “celebrated Chicken Cock Whiskey, 4 years old, for 75 cents, for a 1/5th." And the The Bourbon News (KY), March 21, 1899, mentioned, “…John Henry Trigg was sentenced to ten years for stealing a barrel of Chicken Cock whiskey,..” 

During the 20th century, Chicken Cock Whiskey was very popular, and even during Prohibition it was still sought after. For example, it was said to have been popular in the Cotton Club, where it was smuggled into the club in tin cans. Unfortunately, the original distillery burned down in the 1950s, so the whiskey wasn't available for a time. 

The Chicken Cock brand began its resurrection in 2011, when Matti Anttila, the CEO of Grain and Barrel Spirits, learned about the old brand from his research and decided it deserved to return. In 2018, Grain and Barrel, with master distiller Gregg Snyder, joined with the Bardstown Bourbon Company to create Chicken Cock Whiskey. They now produce a Straight Bourbon, a Straight Rye, and a number of limited releases. 

At the recent WhiskyX event held in Boston, where I was a media guest, I had the opportunity to taste both the Chicken Cock Straight Bourbon and Straight Rye. I was most impressed with their Straight Bourbon although I enjoyed the Straight Rye as well. I can see how these whiskies could become very popular in the Boston area, maybe as much as it had been popular in 1898. 

The Chicken Cock Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (about $60) is produced from a Mashbill of 70% Corn, 21% Rye, and 9% Malted Barley. It doesn't have an age statement, is bottled at 90 proof, and the bottle itself is a replica of the Prohibition-era bottle. With a pleasing golden-brown color, it has an appealing and complex nose, with notes of caramel, vanilla, spice and more. It's smooth on the palate, with only a touch of heat, and isn't as sweet as many bourbons due to its high rye percentage. The taste possesses a complex melange of caramel, vanilla, butterscotch, dried fruit, and more with a lengthy, spicy finish. It's an excellent sipping Bourbon, and each sip will bring something new and delicious to your mouth. Highly recommended!

The Chicken Cock Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey (about $70) is produced from a Mashbill of 95% Rye and 5% malted barley. It doesn't have an age statement, is bottled at 90 proof, and the bottle itself is also a replica of the Prohibition-era bottle. It too has a pleasing golden-brown color, and its nose presents more spice notes, with underlying caramel. On the palate, the spice dominates, especially baking spices, with touches of vanilla and caramel, and a hint of chocolate. The finish is long, spicy and satisfying. 

Have you tried the new Chicken Cock Whiskey yet?

Porter's Small Batch Rye Whiskey: From Massachusetts to Utah

This scary looking guy, who reminds me a bit of of Charlie Manson, is Orrin Porter Rockwell, a Western lawman and Mormon, who was known as the "Destroying Angel." Although he spent much of his life in Utah, he was born in Belchertown, Massachusetts. When he was 16 years old, he was baptized into a church that later became the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. In 1840, Rockwell became a Deputy Marshall of Great Salt Lake City, and he also chose to never cut his hair or beard. His life was controversial, and it's claimed he killed a significant number of outlaws, many more than some more famous Western lawmen. 

Porter's image, made to resemble a Western wanted poster, is on bottles in the Porter Whiskey portfolio, produced by Ogden's Own Distillery. Porter Whiskey includes several different products, including Porter Peach, Porter Huckleberry, Porter Apple, Porter's Fire, the new Peanut Butter Whiskey, and Porter's Small Batch Rye Whiskey. The first five products are a blend of Canadian whiskey and other flavorings. I received a media sample of their Small Batch Rye Whiskey, which is not made from Canadian whiskey.

"From the late 1800's to the mid 1900's setting foot off of the train in Ogden was often a life changing experience for a transcontinental rail traveler. The train station sat as the root of the infamous Two-bit Street. "Any man's desire fulfilled for two bits." Two-bit/25th Street was a hedonist's paradise. With no trouble from the law, a man could gamble, drink bootleg liquor, spend time with an unfamiliar lady, smoke opium, or befall a worse fate." 

--From the Ogden's Own Distillery website

Ogden's Own Distillery was established in 2009, making it the first licensed distillery in Ogden since the 19th century, and their first product was the Underground Herbal Spirit, a liqueur that contains 33 herbs and flavors. From the beginning, they cherished a connection to Utah's historic past, as well as having a sense of humor. Their next product, which garnered some controversy, was Five Wives Vodka, which teased about Utah's history of polygamy. They also produce Gin, under the Madam Pattirini brand, as well as the Porter whiskies. Earlier this year, Ogden's opened a new and much larger distillery facility, about 32,000 square feet, which should allow for an impressive 10-fold increase in production. 

Porter’s Small Batch Rye Whiskey (about $39.95) is made from a mashbill of 95% rye and 5% malted barley. The rye is sourced from MGP, in Indiana, where the finished distillate also spends a year of aging. When the distillate is sent to Utah, it spends another three to four years aging, at 111 proof, in heavily-charred, new American white oak barrels. When the aging is complete, it is blended down to 90 proof. This Rye was first launched in 2019, when about 1000 cases were released, and it remains a small production, though the new distillery could lead to a larger production next year. 

On the nose, this Rye has that spicy edge you seek if you love Rye, accompanied by more subtle elements of herbs and toasted notes. On the palate, the spicy aspect is bold, with plenty of peppery notes as well as baking spices. There is some complexity to its flavors though, with intriguing herbal notes, berry flavors, and a hint of chocolate. Each sip seems to bring something new, though subtle, to your palate. It has a bit of heat to it, a fairly lengthy finish, and some bitter notes on the finish. 

It's definitely a young whiskey, and it could probably benefit from more aging. As such, I think it's best used in cocktails, rather than sipped on its own, and would make a fine Manhattan, one of my favorite Rye Whiskey cocktails. 

TasteCamp Maryland: Tenth Ward Distilling Company

"There was one mistake Baltimore never made. Baltimore, and the state of Maryland, never endorsed Prohibition. We were known as the wettest state, where beer and liquor was freely available before and after the Volstead Act's repeal in 1933."
--The Baltimore Sun, April 30, 2010

As I recently wrote, I attended TasteCamp 2017 in Maryland and during our weekend visit we sampled a number of local spirits. During our visit to McClintock Distilling Company, we also had the opportunity to taste some spirits from the Tenth Ward Distilling Company, and I found three of their products to be interesting, innovative and delicious.

The Tenth Ward Distilling Company, which opened in July 2016, is located at 508 East Church Street in Frederick, in a part of the city which was once known as the Tenth Ward. The distillery is owned by Monica Pearce and Kyle Pfalzer. Monica and Kyle are committed to environmental sustainability and also try to be as local as possible. For example, all of the grain they use is sourced relatively local, about 33 miles away, from the Ripon Lodge Farm in Rippon, West Virginia. In addition to providing the grains, the farm also malts their barley and rye, as well as smokes their corn.

The distillery's slogan is “Ward off ordinary,” which is a partial play off their name and also indicative of their objective to "push the limits with unconventional distilling and aging techniques while at the same time bringing back some historical and local aspects to our process." And based on the spirits I tasted, I see some of that unconventionality as well as homage to local history. They currently produce three spirits year-round, and a few others seasonally or as limited releases.

The Claude Countee Corn Whiskey ($28), produced year-round, is named after a famous Prohibition-era bootlegger from Frederick. The whiskey is made from a mashbill of 80% corn and 20% malted barley, and comes in at 95 proof. Though their website states this whiskey drinks similar to a peated Scotch or Mezcal, I feel that it is more like a smoky bourbon. You have the sweetness from the corn, enhanced by a prominent, but not overwhelming, smoky aspect. Sweet and smoky, it was quite tasty and smooth, despite the high alcohol content. This could be enjoyed on its own, though it would make for an excellent ingredient in a cocktail, maybe a smoky Manhattan.

The Lindsay Stunkle Rye Whiskey ($36), produced year-round, is also named after a famous Prohibition-era bootlegger from Frederick. This limited-release whiskey is made from a mashbill of 80% malted rye and 20% malted barley, and comes in at a whopping 120 proof. It is released twice a year, in June and November, and is intended for home aging. It is spicy and potent, enhanced by the addition of a little water, and will definitely appeal to rye lovers. There is complexity to its taste and a lengthy finish, and I would love to see this aged in the barrel for a number of years.

The most unique of their spirits was the White Caraway Rye ($36) which is made from a mashbill of 80% malted rye and 20% malted barley, and comes in at 95 proof. The spirit is mashed with caraway seed so it is intended to taste more like rye bread, though it may also remind you of Scandinavian Akvavit. I was captivated by the intriguing flavors of this spirit, as it certainly reminded me of spicy rye bread, with a hint of mint. Though you could drink this on its own, I think it would be best used in creating some fascinating cocktails.

Tenth Ward Distilling is producing some impressive and innovative spirits and there is much potential for the future. If you ever get to Maryland, seek out their spirits.

2016: Favorite Spirits, Cocktails & Drink-Related Items

What were some of my favorite spirits and drink-related items of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2016. I have already posted my Favorite Wines, Favorite Restaurants and other related lists. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Spirits and Drink-Related Items. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. This is the first year that this category has been given its own post because I have tasted and reviewed a far greater amount of spirits, cocktails and other drinks this year. For more spirits and drink related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Spirits & Cocktail Event: For the third time, Thirst Boston is my favorite event, an excellent four day event dedicated to the diversity of spirits, cocktails and other drinks. There are a myriad of interesting and informative seminars, tasting rooms, parties and much more. The event is well organized, and everything generally runs smoothly and punctually. I always find it educational and fun, with lots of great drinks available. And a number of the spirits and cocktails I enjoyed at Thirst Boston can be found as other Favorites on this list. I highly recommend you check out next year's Thirst Boston.

Favorite Bourbon Book: Though I haven't yet written a formal review of this book, Bourbon: The Rise, Fall & Rebirth of an American Whiskey, by Fred Minnick receives my hearty recommendation. It is a fascinating historical look at Bourbon, presenting plenty of information you probably didn't know about Bourbon. As a history buff, I love this type of book, and as I also love bourbon, then this book is a double win. Fred has an excellent writing style, offering many interesting anecdotes about Bourbon.

Favorite Single Malt Book: Recently published, The New Single Malt Whiskey, edited by Carlo Devito, is an encyclopedic tome of over 620 pages and is dedicated to single malt whiskey from all over the world. It contains articles written by over 40 writers, covering 197 distilleries from over 25 countries, and reviews more than 325 whiskies. It is an excellent reference tool to explore single malts and will likely intrigue you in tasting many which are new to you. To be transparent, I did contribute a few articles to this book but I have learned much from the other writers in this hefty volume.

Favorite Cocktail Supply Shop: Once again, The Boston Shaker, located near Davis Square in Somerville, wins this category. It offers everything you need to create cocktails, except for the alcohol, including plenty of spirit & cocktail books, a wide range of bitters, shakers, stirrers, glasses, and so much more. They also run cocktail classes, book signings and other fun and informative events. It is an excellent place to purchase gifts for the holiday season for your cocktail loving family and friends.

Favorite Highland Single Malt Scotch: The Oban 18 Year Old Single Malt is produced by a tiny distillery, located in the Coastal Highlands and next to the ocean. This Scotch iss amazing, with a complex and harmonious blend of flavors, including baked orange, bold spices, a hint of smoke, caramel, and much more. Each sip seems to bring a new flavor to your palate. The finish feels like it won't ever end and it is the type of Scotch you would slowly savor all evening. It seduces your palate and will addict you as soon as you taste it. Highly recommended.

Favorite Speyside Single Malt Scotch: The Cardhu 12 Year Old Single Malt is similar to a number of Speyside Scotches, which tend to be fruity in taste. This Scotch has a delightful fruity flavor, ripe plums and figs, with an aroma of sweet Sherry. There are also some intriguing spice notes and a very lengthy and pleasing finish. This Scotch should appeal to many people and would be an excellent introductory Scotch to hook people on this category.

Favorite Islands Single Malt Scotch: Talisker Distillery is the only distillery on the Isle of Skye and it is a huge distillery, selling half of their product to Johnny Walker. The Talisker 18 Year Old Single Malt is certainly impressive, with a pleasing smoky aroma and a touch of brininess. The palate possesses a moderate peaty aspect, an interesting nuttiness and an excellent blend of sweet and salty flavors. So complex, with a lengthy finish, this is a killer Scotch which will satisfy anyone seeking a fine, peaty whiskey. Pair it with chocolate or oysters.

Favorite Solera-Made Scotch Whiskey: The Black Adder Black Snake VAT 3 Venom 2 Single Malt uses a Solera system that was started about two years ago. They remove about 2/3 of the whiskey from a barrel and then add new whiskey to refill it. It is either finished in Oloroso Sherry or PX Sherry barrels though this particular whiskey was finished in Oloroso barrels, which it sat in for about a year. Each time they remove some whiskey from the barrels, they label it as Venom, so this whiskey was removed for the second time. It is bottled at 114 proof and is strong and powerful but with an elegance that balances it. The flavors are intriguing, a melange of white pepper, honey, vanilla, fennel, floral notes, and hints of aged Sherry.

Favorite Irish Whiskey: The Quiet Man 8-Year-Old Single Malt Irish Whiskey is a blend of new and partially-aged Irish whiskey which finishes its aging at the Quiet Man warehouse. The 8-Year Old possesses a more savory taste profile with a pleasing nose of spice, smoke and floral notes. On the palate, it has a hint of sweetness, tastes of caramel and vanilla. Those sweeter flavors though were balanced by a spicy backbone and a hint of smoke. It drinks very smooth and is an Irish whiskey to slowly savor and enjoy, and during the winter, it would be welcome drink on any chilly night.

Favorite Irish Cream: The company behind The Quiet Man also produces St. Brendan's Irish Cream, which is named after a sixth century monk. It is made from all natural ingredients, from cream made from the milk of grass-fed cows to their own Irish Whiskey. Bottled at 34 proof, it has a richer butterfat content than many of its competitors. I was impressed with its taste, finding it light, creamy and only mildly sweet, far less sweet than Bailey's Irish Cream. It was delicious, without any artificial taste, and would be the perfect drink to cap off a night. I could easily see this in a cocktail, or even as the basis for a tasty frozen shake.

Favorite Rye Whiskey: I've been a fan of the Ryes from Whiskey Pig but their new Whistle Pig 15 Year Old Straight Rye just blew me away. The base of this rye is the 10 Year Old except it sits in the barrel for another 4.5 years and then is finished for anther 6 months in barrels of Vermont White Oak with a #4 char. This is a massively impressive rye, with such a phenomenal, complex melange of aromas and flavors. There is plenty of spice, caramel, butterscotch, vanilla, citrus, and even a touch of smoke. Every sip seems to bring something new to your palate and you won't want to quite sipping until the bottle is empty. It is a liquid aphrodisiac, decadently delicious with a sensual mouthfeel. I can't recommend it highly enough.

Favorite Unique Whiskey Blend: High West Whiskey Campfire, blended in Utah, is unique blend of a straight Bourbon, a straight Rye, and a blended peated Scotch (though the specific proportions is secret). All the whiskies used in this blend are at least five years old. On the nose, it has a complex and alluring aroma, with hints of spice, light smoke, honey, vanilla, and floral notes. As I took a hearty sip, I was amazed at the intriguing and complex procession of flavors that seduced my palate, proceeding from a sweet and fruity start, leading through a spicy middle and ending with a mild smokiness. Sweet, spicy and smoky. It was fascinating that you could easily see the influence of each different type of whiskey, none being dominated by any other. The more you concentrated, the more flavors you discovered in this superb melange, from caramel to citrus, leather to baking spices. Overall, it is a silky & smooth whiskey, with a long and lingering finish.

Favorite Gin: I'm not usually a fan of gin, disliking the strong juniper flavor I find in many, but I have enjoyed some that I felt were more well-balanced. Caledonia Spirits produces what may be my utmost favorite gins, two exceptional barrel-aged gins, the Barr Hill Reserve Tom Cat Barrel-Aged Gins. Their original spends about 4-6 months in new American white oak barrels tastes more like a whiskey than a gin, pushing the juniper flavor to a minimal element. There are honey notes, enhanced by a spicy aspect and hints of vanilla and caramel. The floral elements are also more of an undertone, and the overall taste is complex and intriguing, delicious and satisfying. Their newest release has been aged for about six months in Vermont white oak. I found this Gin to be softer and more subtle than the other barrel-aged Gin. It is fragrant and elegant, with plenty of complexity and exciting flavors. There is still a whiskey element in this Gin, with a very subdued juniper taste, but it certainly is a more unique spirit in its totality. I would only drink this on its own as in a cocktail, you might lose some of the subtle flavors of this superb Gin.

Favorite Spanish-Style Rum: The Mount Gay XO-Extra Old Rum is generally a blend of rums aged from 8-15 years old. The XO is complex and intriguing, a rum to slowly sip and savor. It is silky smooth with delicious flavors of ripe pear, vanilla, toast, and subtle baking spices. It is an elegant spirit with a lengthy finish which will be sure to satisfy and tantalize. You won't be able to take just one sip as your palate will crave more. This is a rum you should drink on its own and which you probably don't want to use in a cocktail. And at only about $40, this is an excellent value too.

Runner-Up Favorite Spanish-Style Rum: Diplomatico Rum, based in Venezuela, produces a number of excellent value rums as well as a couple of compelling high-end rums. The 2002 Single Vintage (about $95) is made from rum was aged for 12 years in ex-bourbon and single malt casks and then placed into ex-Oloroso Sherry barrels for another year. This rum presents an intriguing aroma of caramel, vanilla and salted nuts. On the palate, the taste is complex and intriguing, a fine blend of caramel, vanilla, honey, almonds, baking spices, and dried fruit. There are hints of Oloroso in the rum, especially on the lengthy finish. The Ambassador (about $260) is aged in used white oak barrels for 12 years and then spends another 2 years in PX Sherry barrels. This rum will remind you in some respects of an aged Port, presenting an alluring nose of red fruits and exotic spice. On the palate, there are more dried red fruit flavors, baking spices, more exotic spice notes, a touch of leather and a hint of herbs. Complex and fascinating, this is also a rum that would benefit from slowly savoring it on its own.

Favorite Agricole Rhum: This French style rum is made from pure sugarcane juice rather than molasses. As such, it is a terroir driven spirit, which molasses-made rums are not. The Rhum Damoiseau Blanc, which is made in Guadeloupe, is 110 proof, unfiltered and has been distilled only once. It is savory and vegetal, with a strong earthy aspect. There are only hints of fruit and it also possesses a long, earthy finish. I very much enjoyed the more unique flavors of this Rhum though it certainly wouldn't appeal to everyone.

Favorite Local Rum: Privateer, located in Ipswich, produces some delicious, limited edition rums, including Navy Yard and Queen's Share. Navy Yard is a single barrel rum, aged for at least two years in new American oak, and bottled at 102 proof. It is bold and delicious, with a nice complexity of flavors, including caramel, butterscotch, orange, almonds, vanilla and subtle spice notes. This is definitely a sipping rum, which will deliver new flavors in every sip. The Queen's Share is also a single cask rum, aged for about three years in new American oak, and bottled at 114 proof in very limited quantities. It is a blend of their other three rums and is a lighter, more elegant style than the Navy Yard. However, it still possesses a similar complexity with lots of fruit, honey, caramel, vanilla and spice notes.

Runner-Up Favorite Local Rum: In Vermont, Smugglers' Notch Distillery is a father/son partnership which distills a number of products. Their Rum is a single-barrel amber rum bottled at 105 proof. It is aged for about 3 years in charred white oak and then finished for another year in 4-year old ex-whiskey barrels. I was impressed with the complex and delicious flavors in this rum, which had some similarities to a fine bourbon. And despite its high alcohol content, you wouldn't notice it in this smooth and well balanced rum. Such tasty flavors of caramel, vanilla, and baking spices with a lengthy finish.

Favorite Tequila: Though the bottle has glow-in-the-dark lettering and symbols, the Suerte Extra Añejo Tequila isn't a gimmicky spirit. Many traditional methods, such as the tacoma, are used to produce this tequila. This is a single barrel tequila, made from 100% Blue Weber Agave, and aged in charred American White Oak whiskey barrels for 5 years. The tequila is a deep golden color with an enticing nose of roasted agave, vanilla, and citrus notes, On the palate, it presents a complex melange of flavors, including caramel, vanilla, orange, baking spices and roasted agave. It is smooth and delicious, with a mild bitterness on the finish, helping to balance the mild sweetness of the tequila. This is a tequila to slowly sip, savoring each intriguing taste, and it drinks so well you could sip it all night.

Favorite Mezcal: I delved a quite bit into Mezcal this year, and it is certainly a worthy endeavor. Check out my Mezcal Rant, 400 Rabbits Say "Drink More Mezcal. Tequila seems to get most of the attention but Mezcal deserves much more attention. Trying to select a single Mezcal as my favorite was a difficult task but I finally settled on one, the Mezcal Vago Tepazate.  The Tepazate agave, also known as Dub-Cual, is a wild variety which grows quite large and can take as long as 25 years to mature. This mezcal has an impressive and complex taste, with lots of smoky and earthy elements, plenty of herbal notes and hints of citrus and stone fruit. I could have sat there for hours sipping this mezcal, extracting subtle hints of other flavors as well. I have to mention that all of the Mezcals from Mezcal Vago, such as their Espadin, Elote, and Mexicano, are delicious and worthy of your tasting.

Runner-Up Favorite Mezcal: The Del Maguey Papalote is produce in the region of Puebla and only recently was allowed within Mezcal DO. Papalote is the Puebla name for the Tobala agave and Del Maguey wants to use the regional name out of respect for the region and family producing the Mezcal. This Mezcal is made in a traditional way, roasting piñas in a horno, fermenting in an open air vat, and distilled for about 35 hours in a copper pot still. This Mezcal is complex and intriguing possessing more of a floral aspect and fruit flavors of pear and apple. There is only a mild smokiness, and a very lengthy finish. This was an elegant Mezcal, another one which you will want to slowly savor with good friends.

Favorite Mezcal Bars: Everyone knows about the local Tequila bars, but many people don't know where they can find excellent Mezcals lists. Thus, I created a list of Mezcal Bars in the Boston Area, defined as spots with 20+ Mezcals on their drinks menu. The list includes Tres Gatos in Jamaica Plain, The Painted Burro in Somerville, Lone Star Taco Bar in Allston & Cambridge, Ole Mexican Grill in Cambridge, and Ameluto Mexican Table in Waltham. Rosa Mexicano, in Boston, needs to be added to this list after their updated their drinks program, adding more Mezcals. If you want to explore Mezcal, and you should do so, then check out these bars.

Favorite Brandy: The Christian Brothers Sacred Bond Bottled-In-Bond Brandy, produced in California, has been produced in a single distillation season, by one distiller, at one distillery. In addition, it has been aged for 4 years in American white oak bourbon barrels, in a federally bonded warehouse, and bottled at 100 proof. I was very pleased with this brandy's smooth, flavorful taste. It is more full bodied, with delicious and bright flavors of red fruits and ripe plum, with mild spice notes and a vanilla backbone. There was even a hint of chocolate on the finish. Despite it being 100 proof, the alcohol was well integrated and there was only a mild heat at the finish, not what you might expect at all. With its full flavors and complexity, this would enhance any cocktail.

Favorite Local Sake: Dovetail Brewery opened in Waltham this year, making small batch Sakes, including the Nakahama Junmai and Omori Nigori. They use Yamada Nishiki rice, grown in Arkansas, which is considered the King of Sake Rice. These two Sakes are also Namazake, unpasteurized Sake. The Nakahama Junmai has a touch of sweetness and presents a smooth and fruity taste, some melon and pear. The Omori Nigori is a bit more full-bodied and sweeter than the Junmai, though it is far less sweet than many other Nigoris you will find. There is lots of fruit, a bit more tropical, flavors in the taste. Dovetail is available in numerous local stores and restaurants so seek it out.

Favorite Greek Spirits: I've previously discussed the compelling wine list at Committee but they also offer an intriguing range of Greek spirits, including ouzo, tsipouro/tsikoudia, and mastiha. The spirits are offered in various tasting sizes as well as tasting flights. The range of their Greek spirits presents plenty of diversity and most are designed to be either aperitifs or paired with food. For a long time, it is almost impossible to find these spirits at local restaurants but that is changing with the influx of new Greek restaurants. However, Committee is a great spot to learn all about these fascination spirits. Take and chance and expand your palate.

Favorite New Spirit: This year, I immersed myself in learning about Baijiu, the most popular spirit in the world! Yes, in there world as so many Chinese drink it in their native country. It is a fascinating spirit, produced in a unique process and I wrote eight articles about it this year. To start, check out Baijiu: The Durian Fruit Of The Spirits World (Part 1), which has links to the other articles. Baijiu is just starting to catch on with the non-Asian market and you will hear more about it in the coming years. Less than 10 Baijiu brands are currently available in the Boston area but many of them are good choices, and you will find a number of restaurants making Baijiu cocktails. Learn more about Baijiu and maybe you'll find a new favorite spirit too.

Favorite Baijiu: The Shui Jing Fang Wellbay Baijiu is produced at the oldest verifiable distillery in China, having been founded in the Sichuan province in 1408. This Strong Aroma Baijiu is made from a blend of 36% sorghum, and 64% other grains, including rice, glutinous rice, wheat and corn, and has a 51% ABV. The palate on this Baijiu presented an intriguing melange of flavors, including tropical fruits like pineapple and banana, with hints of licorice and some earthy notes. It was smooth and well balanced, with a lingering finish, ending with a slightly bitter note. With its earthy element, this wouldn't be the best Baijiu to introduce to a newcomer, but it also isn't overly earthy and I enjoyed it very much.

Favorite Sherry Bar: Taberna de Haro wins this category hands-down as there is no other local restaurant which comes close. With over 60 Sherries, including some rarer bottlings, Chef/Owner Deborah Hansen has compiled an amazing Sherry list, offering a good number by the glass. The Sherries pair very well with her Spanish cuisine and I could easily sit at the bar all night sampling different Sherries, from a bone dry Fino to a sublime aged Palo Cortado. If you are ever in the area, you must stop here and try some Sherry.

Favorite Restaurant Cocktails: Here is a short list of five of the best cocktails I enjoyed this past year.
   Chicha Sour: At Tico, they created several new cocktails for the Nikkei menu and the Chicha Sour is their a take on the classic Pisco Sour. It is made with Barsol Pisco, Chicha (a corn based beverage), and fresh lime. It is a mild drink of subtle flavors, a little sour and sweet (likely from the corn) with a soft flavor of Pisco. It goes down easily and you could drink several of these in the course of an evening.
    Bloody Marietta: At Committee, their variation on the Bloody Mary is the Bloody Marietta, made with vodka, olive tapenade, EVOO, rigani, basil, Tabasco, and a spicy feta stuffed olive. It was a savory and delicious variation, with intriguing olive notes, a mild spiciness and seemed lighter than other such cocktails. It went down very easy and makes you crave another.
     The New Frontier: At Wu Er Barbecue, the New Frontier ($11) is made with Hong Kong Baijiu, Tequila, Garam Masala, Lime Juice, Bell Pepper & Thai Chili. It is absolutely delicious, one of the better cocktails I've enjoyed as of late. The Baijiu takes a prominent role and is definitely evident in the drink, which is only mildly hot but with an intriguing spicy aspect. This cocktail pairs very well with their cuisine, including the five-spice & garlic chicken.
    We Can't Elope: Also at Committee, the We Can't Elope is made with Soul Cachaça, cucumber-cantaloupe syrup, and fresh lime juice. Bright and refreshing, you could taste the Cachaça, which was enhanced by the fruit flavors. It is a perfect summer cocktail.
    Roffignac: At A&B Burgers, the Roffignac, which was created for a Cajun dinner, is made with Courvoisier VS Cognac, Strawberry Cardamom Shrub, and Soda. It is a classic New Orleans cocktail, but seems to receive far less attention that many other cocktails from that city. It is mildly sweet with a little tartness, plenty of red fruit flavor and mild bubbles. This is an excellent and refreshing summer cocktail and is worthy of much more attention in the local cocktail scene.

Favorite Frozen Cocktail: At the Battle of the Burger, Chef Ming Tsai created a Dark & Stormy Granita, using Mount Gay Rum. It was a refreshing and delicious "slushy" and I wish I could have savored a large glass instead of the tiny paper cups it was served in. I like the Dark & Stormy cocktail, and its blend of ginger beer and rum, and this granita presented that blend in a frozen delight. I'm going to have to make these at home next summer.

Favorite Warm/Hot Cocktail: Committee wins another category with their Greek Rakemelo. This drink, which extends back to the 12th century, is commonly a blend of Tsipouro/Tsikoudia with honey, aromatic herbs and spices. At Committee, they create their Rakomelo with Tsikoudia, honey, clove and cinnamon and will serve it warm during the winter and cold in the summer. I tasted the warm version and it reminded me of hot, spiced apple cider without the apples. It was easy drinking, more savory and only minimally sweet, with plenty of flavors of fall spices. The alcohol was well hidden within the drink so you could easily finish one of the carafes without realizing how much alcohol you might have consumed. With the cold winter revving up, hot Rakemlo is going to be the perfect solution.

Favorite Cocktail Series: This year, I concentrated on one of my favorite cocktails, the Manhattan, writing a three-part series, including Then & Now (Part 1), Creating Your Own (Part 2), and Drink Up (Part 3). I delved into its history, how to create your own Manhattan at home, and provided some of my favorite Manhattans at local restaurants and bars. Though it may seem like a simple cocktail, it actually possesses much more complexity and its taste profile can vary dependent on how it is prepared. It is an excellent winter drink, though I enjoy it during the summer as well.

Favorite Beer: I dislike most beer, as I am very sensitive to the bitterness of hops and that taste turns me off. Every once in a while though, I find a beer that does appeal to me. This year, I was impressed with the Night Shift Harborside, is a Gose-style ale that was brewed with coriander and Island Creek Oysters. The Harbourside is a traditional Gose in many ways, being a top-fermented wheat beer and a 3.6% ABV. However, instead of adding sea salt or salted water, they produced the batch with the addition of about 350 live oysters to the wort a few minutes before the end of the boil. I found this beer to be crisp and refreshing with a bright lemon taste, mild coriander spice, and a strong briny element which I very much enjoyed. It made for an excellent summer drink, sour and salty, and lacked the bitterness I find in many there beers. Even if you think you don't like beer, you should taste the Harborside as it may change your mind.

Favorite Local Hard Cider: I've tasted plenty of hard cider this year so it was tough to decide on my favorites. The overall quality of local cider keeps improving and producers have been experimenting, making some intriguing variations. In the basic category, I'll give it to the Whetstone Ciderworks Orchard Queen, located in Vermont, which is made from a blend of apples including Lamb Abbey Permian, Orleans Reinette, Co'x Orange Pippin and Kingston Black. This is dry and crisp, with a strong tart apple flavor and mild citrus, but it also possesses an earthy element, a complex and intriguing aspect that appealed to me. I would pair this with other umami dishes, from sushi with soy sauce to mushroom risotto.

Favorite Local Flavored-Hard Cider: Another Vermont cidery, Citizen Cider produces over 10 different types of cider, a diverse portfolio of intriguing ciders. The Citizen Plum Intended is intriguing as it is made with Sake yeast, as well as co-fermented with macerated plums, from a local Vermont orchard. It is delicious, only mildly sweet, and has a subtle plum flavor overlying the crisp, apple flavors. This would be a nice food cider, maybe pairing well with some Asian cuisine.
 
Favorite Local Barrel-Aged Hard Cider: And from still another Vermont cidery, the Shacksbury WhistlePig Barrel-Aged Cider is a blend of about 90% bittersweet apples and 10% grocery apples, including McIntosh, Empire, Cortland, Dabinett, Somerset Redstreak, Browns, Michelin, and Ellis Bitters. With a 6.9% ABV and 1% residual sugar, this cider saw a slow, partial native yeast fermentation. Then it was aged in Whistlepig barrels, which were previously Sauternes barrels, for about six months. I found it to be more full-bodied and smooth, with a complex melange of flavors, including caramel, honey, vanilla, mild spices and some fruity notes, mostly apple but with some citrus and pear as well. It has only a small touch of sweetness and mild effervescence. A fascinating cider, I think this would be great with cheese.

Favorite Local Hard Cider Rosé: And from still another Vermont cidery (are you sensing a theme here?), the Eden Imperial Rosé is produced from heirloom apples, red currants, and a touch of ice cider. At 11% ABV, it is off-dry, with a mild effervescence, and is fresh and crisp with delicious apple and currant flavors, blending together well. It is tasty on its own, though would pair well with food too, and this would be great on your holiday table at Thanksgiving.

Favorite Local Unique-Hard Cider Product: Eden Speciality Ciders also produced two fascinating cider products, essentially an "Apple Vermouth" and an "Apple Amaro." The Eden Orleans Herbal Aperitif, similar in some respects to a Vermouth, is made with Vermont apples and then infused with organic herbs, with Basil and Hyssop being the primary herbs. On the nose, the cider presents an alluring aroma of herbs with apple hints and on the palate it is savory and interesting, blending apple flavors with floral notes, herbal accents and a touch of honey.  With a lengthy, satisfying finish, this is an intriguing and compelling cider, a unique blend which has lots of potential. The Eden Orleans Bitter Aperitif, similar in some respects to an Amaro, is a cider made with red currant, dandelion, angelica, and gentian. It possesses a complex and fascinating taste, with a potent bitterness, enhanced by more subtle hints of red fruit and apple. It too should be an excellent ingredient for a variety of cocktails. These are both unique, delicious, complex and versatile.

Favorite Apple Ice Cider: The Windfall Orchard, located in Vermont, is a small farm and produces the tasty Windfall Ice Cider, a blend of 30 varieties of apples, including 50% heirloom and 50% traditional cider apples. Some of the traditional cider apples include Roxbury Russet and Esopus Spitenburg. It has a wild fermentation as well as a secondary fermentation, with some ice cider as a dosage. It ends up with a 9% ABV and 15% residual sugar, and tastes mostly dry with good acidity. It has a prominent and complex apple flavor with savory notes. There are also notes of honey, dried fruit and almost ripe pear. An excellent dessert wine.

Favorite Spanish Cider: From the Asturian region of Spain, the Fanjul Sidra Natural is a traditional, unfiltered sidra made from a blend of Asturian apples, such as Clara, Blanquina, Raxo, De la Riega, Xuanina, Perico, Verdialona, Regona and Durona de Tresali. One of its only non-traditional matters is that the sidra is fermented in oak rather than traditional chestnut. This is a dry cider, with a strong earthiness, intriguing apple flavors, some nutty accents and some tartness on the finish. Such a delicious and compelling cider, and very different from most American-made ciders. I love its strong umami element, seeing some similarity to Kimono/Yamahai Sake.

Runner-Up Favorite Spanish Cider: Another Asturian cider, the 1947 Sidra de Nueva Expresion is a petillant semi-dry cider made in a more modern style. It is a filtered sidra, made from estate apples, and possesses a strong, appealing apple aroma. On the palate, it presents as mostly dry, with only the slightest hint of sweetness, with a mild effervescent, enough to be a nice palate cleanser. It has delicious apple flavors with a lengthy pleasing finish.

Favorite Pear Cider: Also from the Asturian region, the Viuda de Angelon Sidra De Pera is a sparkling off-dry pear cider, a perry. Using estate grown pears, this is an impressive and delicious cider, with a harmonious blend of earthiness with subtle pear flavor and a mild effervescence. It is dry and refreshing, with more depth than most perry ciders I have tasted before.

Favorite Fermented Maple Syrup: Produced by Fernleigh Cellars in Vermont, the the Maple Reserve Special Dark is is a unique fermented maple syrup and actually reminded me of a Sherry. It is well balanced and fascinating, delicious and complex. It reminded me of a sweet Oloroso Sherry with a sweet & salty taste, with nutty notes and even some minerality. The pleasing finish lingered for a very long time and I was mesmerized by the flavors in this wine, amazed that maple syrup could create something this good.

Favorite Non-Alcoholic Drink: At Tasting Counter, they offer a palate cleanser, the Schisandra Berry Tea, which is compelling made from an Asian berry sometimes called the five-flavor berry. The cold brewed tea is sweet and salty, sour and bitter. It is refreshing and delicious, a nice palate cleanser though it would probably pair well with various dishes too. I really want to make a Sake cocktail with this tea.

Runner-Up Favorite Non-Alcoholic Drink: At Asta restaurant, I also had an interesting palate cleansers, the Sassafras Float, made with Fennel Sorbet. This bubbly drink had hints of root beer but was more dry than sweet, with clean flavors that were amplified by the compelling fennel sorbet. Tasty and compelling, it is a fine palate cleanser though it too could pair well with various foods.

What were some of your favorite spirits and drink-related items this year?

High West Whiskey Campfire: A Triumph of Three

"How many distilleries existed in Utah, prior to 1862, cannot be ascertained, though we know there was no scarcity. The revenue collector’s record shows, between 1862, when the IRS went into effect, and 1869, the arrival of the railroad, thirty-seven distilleries operated in Utah, all owned by Mormons and with Brigham Young among them. When the first settlers arrived in Utah, distilling was a way of life because alcohol was a primary medicine as well as a way to turn food that would have spoiled into something of great value."
--The American Historical Magazine (Volume 3, January 1908 – November 1908),  Mormonism and Intoxicants by Theodore Schroeder

As I've said multiple times before, blending in alcohol production can be an exquisite art, whether it is used to create an elegant Champagne or a compelling Bourbon. Not enough credit is given to the skills needed to be an expert blender, and not enough credit is given to those products which exemplify the best of the blending art. I want to highlight some people in Utah who are excelling at the art of blending, creating intriguing and delicious whiskies.

In 2009, High West Distillery was established in Park City, Utah, by David (a former biochemist) and Jane Perkins, husband and wife, and it was the first legal distillery permitted since 1870. They began operation with a 250 gallon still and soon enough needed to expand so that they now have four unique locations, including a distillery in Wanship, which has a 1,600 gallon pot still. They currently produce about 70,000 cases annually. Although High West produces some of their own whiskies, they have also acquired a good reputation for their blended bottlings. I should note that High West Distillery was recently acquired by Constellation Brands, Inc.

It is said that High West's David Perkins met with Jim Rutledge, the former Master Distiller at Four Roses, and was inspired about the art of blending. David then began experimenting in this vein, and one of his creations has been High West Whiskey Campfire, one of the most unique whiskey blends you'll likely find.

A friend of mine, Alan Bahr, highly recommended this whiskey to me. Alan is a talented game designer, the owner of Gallant Knight Games, which has published Tiny Frontiers and the forthcoming Tiny Frontiers: Mecha & Monsters. He has also been involved in several other role-playing games like The Powder Mage RPG and Planet Mercenary.

I asked Alan to comment on this whiskey blend, and he stated: "I remember the first time I had High West Campfire. I was 24/25ish, had just moved 40 miles from religiously conservative college town to big city in Utah. One of my best friends who lived there, took me out to a bar that became my favorite very quickly, the Bourbon House.

"One of the first drinks we tried was High West Campfire, and I was in love. To this day, it's smokey, unique flavor reminds me of friendship, nostalgia and basement dive bars, full of character, clattering pool balls. High West is also a Utah export, which is a fact of personal pride (for no good reason). It's whisky, from Utah of all places, and made unique, like Utah makes it's citizens.

"Even though I've grown my tastes and expanded my horizons, I think, when the sun sets over the Uintas, and I watch get to watch red light overcome my decade long home, there's still a smell and taste, of campfire in the air. Here, in the last bastion of my high west."

The High West Whiskey Campfire ($55-$60) is a blend of a straight Bourbon, a straight Rye, and a blended peated Scotch. Are you aware of anyone else creating such a blend? It seems unusual and you might be hesitant at first, wondering whether such a blend can work well or not. However, I strongly encourage you to take a chance on this blend, and I think you'll be pleasantly satisfied with what you taste.

All three of the whiskies used in this blend, which is at 46% ABV, are at least five years old. The Bourbon is sourced from MGP, and is made from a mash bill of 75% corn, 21% rye, and 4% malted barley. The Rye is also sourced from MGP, and is made from a mash bill of 95% corn rye, and 5% barley malt. The Scotch is from an undisclosed distillery in Scotland, and is made from 100% barley malt which has been peated. The specific proportions of the different whiskies in this blend is also a secret. In addition, all three whiskies are not chill-filtered or carbon-treated.

I shared this bottle with several other whiskey-loving friends, and they all enjoyed it. On the nose, it has a complex and alluring aroma, with hints of spice, light smoke, honey, vanilla, and floral notes. As I took a hearty sip, I was amazed at the intriguing and complex procession of flavors that seduced my palate, proceeding from a sweet and fruity start, leading through a spicy middle and ending with a mild smokiness. Sweet, spicy and smoky. It was fascinating that you could easily see the influence of each different type of whiskey, none being dominated by any other.

As you paid more attention to each sip, you could detect hints of each whiskey type in all three phases, though they were more subtle. And the more you concentrated, the more flavors you discovered in this superb melange, from caramel to citrus, leather to baking spices. With its higher alcohol content, there is some minor heat when you first taste the whiskey, but that heat seems to fade away as you sip your glass. Overall, it is a silky & smooth whiskey, with a long and lingering finish. An excellent sipping whiskey, I could easily sit and drink this all night, and it earns my hearty recommendation.

"We like to enjoy Campfire whiskey with s’mores...or good-looking strangers."
--High West Distillery website

TasteCamp Vermont: Distilleries, From WhistlePig to Smugglers' Notch

Craft distilleries are popping up all across the country and New England is home to at least a few dozen such spots. As part of TasteCamp Vermont, several distilleries, such as Caledonia Spirits (which I discussed yesterday), participated, showcasing some of their products at the tasting events. Some of the other participants included: SILO Distillery (vodka, gin, whiskey, liqueurs), Appalachian Gap Distillery (rum, whiskey, coffee liqueur, and more) and Stonecutter Spirits (single barrel gin).

At these tasting events, there was a limited time period to sample all of the wines, beers, ciders and spirits, so an attendee generally didn't have enough time to taste everything as well as spend some time speaking with the producers and their representatives. As such, you had to make decisions, usually hard decisions, as to what you wanted to taste first, knowing you might not get to sample everything you want. Such time periods were necessary though so we could experience a broad swath of Vermont's offerings and it is no different from many other tasting events where you can't taste everything that is available.

There are also other distilleries in Vermont which didn't participate in TasteCamp. The Distilled Spirits Council of Vermont, founded in January 2011, is "a cooperative, non-profit organization created to develop, promote, and maintain the distilled spirits industry in Vermont." It has about 16 members and their website has a map showing all of those distilleries. It is an excellent resource if you'd like to further explore the spirits of Vermont.

I'm going to highlight two other distilleries which participated in TasteCamp Vermont.

I've previously written about WhistlePig Rye several times, including most recently in Distillers Round Table--Dave Pickerell of WhistlePig. At TasteCamp, they presented several of their Rye Whiskies for sampling. I enjoy all of the WhistlePig products, and often use their 10 Year Old at home when making Manhattans.  My favorite though is their newest release, the superb, albeit pricey, 15 Year Old Straight Rye Whiskey ($199). This is one of the best Ryes I've ever tasted and it is worth every penny.

I previously wrote about their 15 Year Old: "The base of this rye is the 10 Year Old except it sits in the barrel for another 4.5 years and then is finished for anther 6 months in barrels of Vermont White Oak with a #4 char. At 92 proof, only 6000 bottles were released in the U.S. though more will be made available in September. This is a massively impressive rye, with such a phenomenal, complex melange of aromas and flavors. There is plenty of spice, caramel, butterscotch, vanilla, citrus, and even a touch of smoke. Every sip seems to bring something new to your palate and you won't want to quite sipping until the bottle is empty. It is a liquid aphrodisiac, decadently delicious with a sensual mouthfeel. I can't recommend it highly enough."

I look forward to see what WhistlePig releases next.

Smugglers' Notch Distillery is a father/son partnership of Jeremy Elliott, a research chemist by trade, and Ron Elliott, who has a business background. They founded their distillery in 2006 in Jeffersonville, Vermont, at the foot of Smugglers Notch, which many people may know as a ski resort. However, this area has a mountain pass that once was used for smuggling contraband in and out of Canada. This smuggling apparently began in the early 19th century, and would continue during Prohibition. The distillery opened to the public in 2010 and then produce a variety of spirits, including vodka, rum, whiskey and gin.

This small distillery somehow ended up the target of trademark litigation, being sued by Gruppo Campari which produced Old Smuggler, a blended Scotch whiskey. Fortunately,  they were eventually able to negotiate a settlement, which allowed Smugglers' Notch Distillery to keep their name, but all of their new whiskey releases need to possess a more original name. For their first new release since settling that lawsuit, they chose to call it Litigation Wheat Whiskey.

Released in October 2015, Litigation Wheat Whiskey is an unblended whiskey, at 92 proof, made from 95% wheat and 5% malted barley, and is aged in new Char #4 white oak barrels for 2-3 years. The aroma has sweet elements, bits of honey and caramel, with some floral notes. On the palate, it is pleasant and smooth, with tastes of caramel and honey, balanced with a hint of bitterness, with a touch of wood and some grassy notes. An interesting and complex spirit.

The Straight Bourbon is made from two different mash bills, using corn, rye and malted barley, and 5 different new charred American oak barrels. Bottled at 90 proof, this bourbon has a pleasing aroma of sweetness with a hint of spice, and on the palate, it is soft and elegant, with vanilla and honey notes, enhanced by a mild, spicy undertone and with a long and smooth, satisfying finish.

My favorite of their products was their Rum ($30), which is a single-barrel amber rum bottled at 105 proof. The rum is aged for about 3 years in charred white oak and then finished for another year in 4-year old ex-whiskey barrels. The barrels are stored in a heated warehouse, which replicates being in a warmer climate, which accelerates the aging process. I was impressed with the complex and delicious flavors in this rum, which had some similarities to a fine bourbon. And despite its high alcohol content, you wouldn't notice it in this smooth and well balanced rum. Such tasty flavors of caramel, vanilla, and baking spices with a lengthy finish. Highly recommended!

Thirst Boston: Distillers Round Table--Dave Pickerell of WhistlePig

"It doesn't get any more American than Rye."
--Dave Pickerell

Over the last six years, the category of Rye Whiskey has grown approximately 600%, and Dave Pickerell sees this as a trend rather than a fad. It isn't a trend he created, but rather one he recognized early and surged forward to become one of the top producers of Rye. I've met Dave a few times previously and he has always been a fascinating speaker, full of historical information and a deep passion for Rye.

At Thirst Boston, I chose to attend the Distillers Round Table: Dave Pickerell of WhistlePig, which was described as: "It seems like every spirit comes with age claims and descriptions of special barrel finishes on its label these days. So what do these designations actually mean, and how can they help you better understand what’s inside the bottle? Dave Pickerell, WhistlePig Whiskey Master Distiller, will break down the process of whiskey distillation and maturation. Taste a range of differently-aged expressions, including WhistlePig’s new distillate “White Pig,” direct from the new WhistlePig facility, and learn about the role casking plays in creating the final product. This is a chance to learn while experiencing and you’ll come out of the session with a deep understanding and personal appreciation for what goes into a single expression of whiskey."

This was an excellent opportunity to listen to Dave Pickerell speak about Rye and get to taste the WhistlePig products. Dave previously spent 14 years working at Maker's Mark and he now runs Oak View Consulting, assisting a number of other distilleries, such as WhistlePig, Hillrock Estate Distillery, and the George Washington's Distillery. He is nationally recognized as a whiskey expert, and his services are sought out by many distilleries. He apparently even has whiskey in his blood, as his great grandmother’s uncle was Colonel E.H. Taylor, said by many to be the father of the bourbon industry.

(I'll also note that I'm including in this article information from Dave that he provided in another seminar.)

In 1964, Congress passed a resolution, stating Bourbon was a "distinctive product of the U.S." but Rye never received such a distinction and Dave feels that's unfortunate as he believes rye is at the backbone of American history. Prior to the Revolutionary War, rum was hugely popular in the U.S. but with the revolution came an opposition to all things British. As Britain had its connection to the rum trade, American sought a replacement spirit and adopted rye whiskey as their drink of choice. From the Revolutionary War to the Civil War, American soldiers received daily rations of rye whiskey.

There are two main types of rye whiskey, Maryland and Monongahela, the primary difference being that Maryland includes corn in its mash bill but Monongahela contains no corn. With the repeal of Prohibition, Monongahela rye nearly died off with Maryland rye taking the prominent role. First, as Prohibition ended, Canadian whiskey, Caribbean rum and Scotch were ready to swoop in to supply Americans, while American breweries had difficulty in competing quality-wise as most of their spirits were very young, lacking aging. This led to the creation of large commercial distilleries, to benefit from economies of scale, as the only way U.S. distilleries could compete was through lower prices. Second, the Grain Subsidy Act provided subsidies for corn but not rye, so much more corn was planted.

Around 2002 or so, rye was "circling the drain," facing a slow death, and only a few large producers were making rye whiskey. Fortunately, the arrive of the cocktail culture helped to turn that around. While these mixologists were researching historical cocktails, they discovered how many were originally made with rye whiskey, fueling their desire for this spirit. In 2006, bartenders were primarily responsible for the growth of the rye whiskey category by 20% in one year. The trend was starting and opportunities abounded.

Dave, who went to West Point, is a chemist and chemical engineer. He spent about 14 years working at Maker's Mark, noting that they made one mistake, allowing him to volunteer at George Washington Distillery as that is how they ultimately lost him. When George Washington died in 1799, his distillery was producing about 11,000 gallons of rye, which was the largest known distillery at that time. There might have been a larger one elsewhere, but currently there's no known proof of such. In 1814, one of Washington's heirs apparently burnt down the distillery, a case of potential insurance fraud, though the insurance was ultimately paid out.

In 2001, the decision was made to rebuild the distillery and Dave was recruited to help out. At this time, few people were drinking rye but Dave was seduced by rye whiskey. Three years later, the first distillation was conducted at the new distillery. By 2007, the category of rye had grown by 30% and Dave decided to leave Maker's Mark so he could produce rye whiskey. However, he left without having any investors and he didn't receive a severance package. It was a very risky move but in December 2009, he made a contract with Raj Peter Bhakti, who had founded Whistlepig in 2006, to be their Master Distiller. They released their first product in April 2010.

Dave's ultimate goal to is grow rye and produce whiskey from that rye. However, initially they have had to source the rye and whiskey. Vermont hasn't been the friendliest place for their distillery and it took nearly 6 years for them to get everything approved. That can be contrasted with the opening of Hillrock Estate Distillery in the Hudson Valley of New York which only took 9 months! Dave wanted to produce Monongahela-style rye, generally using 100% rye, though with a little allowance for 1%-2% malted barley to enhance the consistency of his product when needed.

Rye that you purchase in the U.S. generally doesn't make good whiskey at it is mainly a cover crop, which is why WhistlePig purchased rye from Canada. They have imported 2 varieties of seed from Western Canada for their own fields. They still can't legally harvest, partially as they can't afford the cost of a harvester, but have been following all the rules and look forward to changing that in the near future. The price of rye is currently high, especially as some places don't have enough rye. They opened their own distillery last October and are moving forward with their original goals. There are even oak trees on their property and they have started sending some of the wood away to be made into barrels.

Dave feels that rye should be spicy and not sweet as it becomes with the addition of corn. He also poetically waxed that rye whiskey is like a great first date. It has "lots of character, is full bodied, well rounded, has a long finish, and no aggression." Dave stated that they wanted to "make good whiskey at a good price." They seek to reach a certain taste point, not a price point, and want to control the category of rye over 6 years old. In addition, Dave feels that alcohol is present to deliver taste so the last thing they do is set the proof, believing there is an ideal proof for each type of alcohol.

When making rye, you must be careful of high tannins and such tannins don't work well. If you leave rye in the barrel too long, the tannins will get out of control. You need to balance the wood to decrease the aggression of the rye without raising the tannins too high. Dave does this with a two barrel system, placing the rye first in a new white oak barrel until the tannins reach a certain level and then placing the rye into a second barrel, a used bourbon barrel. The rye will spend about 5-7 years in the first barrel. The cost of barrels is the single largest cost of making whiskey. Wood, water and grain form their triple terroir.

For the tasting component, we got to sample four products from WhistlePig and I resampled some of those products last weekend at TasteCamp Vermont. First, we began with The White Pig, which hasn't yet been released. This is a white rye whiskey, essentially the distillate straight from the still. It is made with 100% rye, give or take, and presents with some interesting fruity notes and a hint of sweetness, along with some underlying spice notes.

We then moved onto the Whistle Pig 10 Year Old Straight Rye, which I first sampled back in July 2012, having then been very impressed. I nearly always have a bottle of this at my home bar and often use it when making Manhattans. Though the label says it is 10 years old, the rye's age varies from 10-12 years. On the nose, it will remind you of an aged bourbon but the taste is different, presenting plenty of complexity with delicious spices notes, smooth tannins and a sweet & spicy kick. It possesses a lengthy, smooth finish and I continue to highly recommend this rye whiskey.

Scotch producers, such as Glenmorangie, started gaining popularity for their use of various  finishing barrels, from Sherry to Cognac. Dave decided to experiment on his own, purchasing a large variety of barrels until finally deciding on five types: Madeira, Sauternes, Port, Cognac, and Sherry. He produced some limited editions and eventually decided to create a more unique rye, marrying the finishes of three different barrels. That led to the creation of the 12 Year Old "Old World (about $115)

Dave views this rye as like a cocktail with four ingredients, and knowing that you should be able to taste each individual ingredient. The Port barrels were very dominant so it needed to take more of a minimal role in the final blend. In the end, the Old World became a blend of 63% Maderia, 30% Sauternes and 7% Port. At 86 proof, this is a "straight-up dessert" with a delectable diversity of flavors, with plenty of fruit flavors, especially some ripe plum and figs, with plenty of pepper and spice, caramel and honey. You can taste the influences of the three barrels and it works well in a harmonious blend. A lengthy and satisfying finish will make you crave more. Highly recommended.

Just released on the market is the amazing, albeit pricey, 15 Year Old Straight Rye Whiskey ($199). The base of this rye is the 10 Year Old except it sits in the barrel for another 4.5 years and then is finished for anther 6 months in barrels of Vermont White Oak with a #4 char. At 92 proof, only 6000 bottles were released in the U.S. though more will be made available in September. This is a massively impressive rye, with such a phenomenal, complex melange of aromas and flavors. There is plenty of spice, caramel, butterscotch, vanilla, citrus, and even a touch of smoke. Every sip seems to bring something new to your palate and you won't want to quite sipping until the bottle is empty. It is a liquid aphrodisiac, decadently delicious with a sensual mouthfeel. I can't recommend it highly enough.

"Friday is Rye-day"
--Dave Pickerell

The Manhattan Cocktail: Drink Up (Part 3)

"This is a drink with a history, a story, and a style; that's what it means to be a classic cocktail."
--Thinking About a Classic Whisky Cocktail by Hans Allhoff

In the Boston area, many restaurants and bars offer their own Manhattan, some more traditional while others are intriguing variations. If you really enjoy a Manhattan somewhere, and want to replicate it at home, ask the bartender about how they prepare the cocktail. Find out which specific ingredients are used, from the whiskey to the vermouth, the bitters to any other special ingredients. Also find out the specific amounts used of each ingredient so you can get the ratios correct.

I want to present a handful of Manhattans you can find at local spots, some cocktails that I have enjoyed at various times. If you have your own favorite restaurant or bar for Manhattans, please tell us about them in the comments.

At The Blue Ox in Lynn, they offer a Barrel-Aged Manhattan, made with bourbon, and the cocktail has been aged in a whiskey barrel for two months. The cocktail is smooth and complex, with an added depth to it. It is nicely balanced, not overly sweet, and with a mild spice element.

At Il Casale Cucina Campana + Bar in Lexington, they also offer a barrel-aged Manhattan, their  Meletti Barrel Aged Manhattan, which is made with Overholt Rye, Meletti Amaro, & an Amarena cherry. Instead of Vermouth, they use an Amaro, which still provides some sweetness as well as herbal elements. This was a deep and savory cocktail, with intriguing spice and herbal notes,  as well as a nice bitter tinge. It is an interesting variation of a Manhattan, the Amaro working very well.

Osteria Posto in Waltham offers their own Manhattan variation, also using an Italian digestiv rather than Vermouth. The Golden Age is made from Rittenhouse Rye, Cynar, Orange Bitters, and with smoked ice. It possesses a strong bitter and spicy taste with a hint of orange. Well balanced and delicious, this is a hearty winter cocktail.

Chopps American Bar & Grill in Burlington offers barrel-aged Manhattans, though the specific whiskey varies. The Barrel Rested Makers 46 Bourbon made a savory and delicious cocktail, with a nice depth of flavor to it. I've had other Manhattans here and they have always been pleasing.

At Osteria Nino in Burlington, you will find a more traditional Manhattan, the Nino Manhattan, which is made with Bourbon, Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth, bitters, and a cherry. Delicious and savory, it is a little sweeter than a Rye Manhattan, but not overly so. A fine sipping cocktail.

The Manhattan Cocktail: Creating Your Own (Part 2)

“My mentor, Tony Abou-Ganim, once told me the Manhattan should look and taste like Frank Sinatra in a glass.”
--The Manhattan Cocktail: A Modern Guide to the Whiskey Classic by Albert W.A. Schmidt

As I mentioned yesterday, though the Manhattan cocktail seems simple, made from only three basic ingredients, there is far more complexity in its creation than many realize. The objective is to balance the three ingredients to create the specific flavor profile that you desire. That would be relatively easy if each of the three ingredients possessed a uniform flavor but instead, each ingredient has such diversity that creating the balance you want gets more complicated. You need to understand the nature of the ingredients you use and then adapt your cocktail recipe accordingly.

Let's explore some of the complexities of the decision making involved in creating a Manhattan.

We’ll begin with the main ingredient, the Whiskey. First, there is the decision of which whiskey type to use, such as rye or bourbon. As a rough generalization, rye will tend to be more spicy and savory while a bourbon will tend to be sweeter. Thus, you can see that this initial decision will have a significant impact on the flavor profile of your cocktail. Do you want a more savory taste or a sweeter one?

However, there is also diversity in each whiskey category, especially when considering specific brands, which needs to be considered. For example, some bourbons have a higher proportion of rye, making them spicier than other bourbons with a higher proportion of corn. Other whiskies, which have spent a longer time in the barrel, may be spicier as well. In addition, some whiskies are lighter in body while others are heavier.

In essence, each specific brand and bottling of whiskey will create a different flavor profile in a Manhattan, though sometimes the differences might seem minor. With other comparisons, the differences can be quite significant. Selecting your whiskey for the Manhattan is a significant choice in the final resulting cocktail.

With the second ingredient, Vermouth, there is similar diversity in its taste profiles, especially now with the boom in artisan Vermouths. In general, you want to use a sweet vermouth, but sweetness levels will vary. In addition, the herbal and spice blends in each different Vermouth can vary tremendously, which creates a wide range of flavors that will affect your Manhattan. Some will be more bitter or floral than others. Some will use rare herbs and spices not found in many other Vermouths while there are also lighter and heavier Vermouths.

I should mention that not enough people pay attention to the Vermouth used in their Manhattans. They purchase inexpensive Vermouth, without much consideration to its flavor profile. You should pay as much concern for your Vermouth as you do your whiskey. Start exploring the myriad Vermouths on the market, checking out the different flavor profiles they display. It will make a big difference in your Manhattan.

Choosing your whiskey and vermouth should not be separate decisions as the two need to interact properly within your cocktail and deciding on the proper ratio of the two is vital. Though the original recipes generally called for a 1:1 ratio, more modern recipes call for more of a 2:1 ration, in favor of whiskey, though that varies to a degree. It will take some experimentation, to determine the proper balance that works best for you.

For example, a lighter bodied whiskey could be overwhelmed by a more powerful vermouth so you need to adjust that ratio, lowering the amount of Vermouth. In addition, some of the heavier whiskies need more vermouth to balance them out. If you have a sweeter whiskey, you might not want to mix it with a sweeter vermouth as the end result might be much sweeter than you desire. If you want a more savory Manhattan, then you might need to use less sweet Vermouth, or one will more herbal and spice notes. Everyone has their personal taste preferences so the ratio and combinations they desire will vary.

The third ingredient, Bitters, will help create the balance between the whiskey and vermouth. Gary Regan says that bitters are key: ''They bring together the herbal aspects of the vermouth and the forthrightness of the whisky and point up the best aspects of both." These bitters provide concentrated flavors, taking a larger role than might be understood as only a dash or two are commonly used. Although Angostura is the default type of bitters, others use Orange bitters as an addition or a substitute. You could also use almost any type of bitters, giving different flavored accents to your cocktail. Again, experimentation will help determine your favorite flavor profile.

Let's now consider an optional ingredient, the Garnish. Probably the most common garnish is the cherry, from the generic Maraschino cherry to the higher-end cherries soaked in brandy, bourbon or another alcohol. These all with add a little accent of a flavor to the cocktail, and maybe a touch more sweetness. Other common garnishes include a lemon or orange twist, which add a bit of citrus and acidity to the cocktail. My main recommendation is to use quality ingredients for your garnish.

At some restaurants and bars, though you can do it as home too, they barrel age their Manhattans, letting the prepared cocktail sit in a barrel for a time, maybe 30 days or so. This can provide some added depth and complexity to a Manhattan, as well as increase some of the spicy elements. I haven't aged any Manhattans at home yet, but will likely purchase a barrel in the near future to start doing so.

As you can see, creating a basic Manhattan can be much more complex than readily apparent. You can even get more complex by making up some of the myriad variations of the Manhattan. If the whiskey you use is Scotch, it becomes a Rob Roy. The Perfect Manhattan is made with equal portions of sweet and dry Vermouth. A Jumbo has equal parts of Rye, sweet and dry Vermouth (without any bitters) while a Honolulu has equal parts of Bourbon, sweet and dry Vermouth (without any bitters). The list of variations is endless and bartenders are always trying to create their own special versions.

To Be Continued...