The Return of Chicken Cock Whiskey

“The G.G. White Co. has shipped 180 barrels of eighteen year old Chicken Cock whiskey to Boston parties.”

--The Bourbon News (KY), April 1, 1898

Chicken Cock Whiskey was obviously extremely popular in Boston in the 19th century. Now that the brand has returned, how will it be received in Boston, and elsewhere? 

In 1856, James A. Miller built a distillery in Paris, Kentucky, starting the Chicken Cock Whiskey brand. Unfortunately, only a few year laters, Miller passed away, and George G. White, his former distillery clerk, purchased the distillery, continuing the brand. In 1880, he renamed the distillery to G.G. White Distillery, but also renamed the whiskey as the Old J.A. Miller Chicken Cock.

The earliest mention I found to Chicken Cock Whiskey in the newspapers was in an advertisement in The Times-Picayune (LA), November 20, 1862. The earliest mentions, for a number of years, were nearly all in Louisiana newspapers. One interesting mention was in The Louisiana Democrat (LA), January 20, 1869, in an ad which stated, “just received a fresh supply of the genuine Miller Chicken Cock Whiskey, an article that every body knows is good, when genuine, as this is.” It appears at this time there might have been counterfeit whiskey being passed off as the real thing. 

The Arizona Daily Star (AZ), June 1, 1880, printed an ad by the agents for J.A. Miller’s Chicken Cock Whiskey in Arizona and New Mexico. 

The Lowell Sun (MA), December 2, 1893, published an ad for the, “celebrated Chicken Cock Whiskey, 4 years old, for 75 cents, for a 1/5th." And the The Bourbon News (KY), March 21, 1899, mentioned, “…John Henry Trigg was sentenced to ten years for stealing a barrel of Chicken Cock whiskey,..” 

During the 20th century, Chicken Cock Whiskey was very popular, and even during Prohibition it was still sought after. For example, it was said to have been popular in the Cotton Club, where it was smuggled into the club in tin cans. Unfortunately, the original distillery burned down in the 1950s, so the whiskey wasn't available for a time. 

The Chicken Cock brand began its resurrection in 2011, when Matti Anttila, the CEO of Grain and Barrel Spirits, learned about the old brand from his research and decided it deserved to return. In 2018, Grain and Barrel, with master distiller Gregg Snyder, joined with the Bardstown Bourbon Company to create Chicken Cock Whiskey. They now produce a Straight Bourbon, a Straight Rye, and a number of limited releases. 

At the recent WhiskyX event held in Boston, where I was a media guest, I had the opportunity to taste both the Chicken Cock Straight Bourbon and Straight Rye. I was most impressed with their Straight Bourbon although I enjoyed the Straight Rye as well. I can see how these whiskies could become very popular in the Boston area, maybe as much as it had been popular in 1898. 

The Chicken Cock Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (about $60) is produced from a Mashbill of 70% Corn, 21% Rye, and 9% Malted Barley. It doesn't have an age statement, is bottled at 90 proof, and the bottle itself is a replica of the Prohibition-era bottle. With a pleasing golden-brown color, it has an appealing and complex nose, with notes of caramel, vanilla, spice and more. It's smooth on the palate, with only a touch of heat, and isn't as sweet as many bourbons due to its high rye percentage. The taste possesses a complex melange of caramel, vanilla, butterscotch, dried fruit, and more with a lengthy, spicy finish. It's an excellent sipping Bourbon, and each sip will bring something new and delicious to your mouth. Highly recommended!

The Chicken Cock Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey (about $70) is produced from a Mashbill of 95% Rye and 5% malted barley. It doesn't have an age statement, is bottled at 90 proof, and the bottle itself is also a replica of the Prohibition-era bottle. It too has a pleasing golden-brown color, and its nose presents more spice notes, with underlying caramel. On the palate, the spice dominates, especially baking spices, with touches of vanilla and caramel, and a hint of chocolate. The finish is long, spicy and satisfying. 

Have you tried the new Chicken Cock Whiskey yet?

Bourbon Curious: Breaking Bourbon Myths & Misconceptions

"Bourbon transcends ingredients and brand names. It embodies a culture, a feeling, and a sense of unity that draws friends together and brings foes to peace."
--Fred Minnick

Are you a bourbon fan? Bourbon is a type of whiskey and it's a specifically American spirit. In 1964, Congress passed a resolution, stating bourbon was a "distinctive product of the U.S." granting the term legal protection. Other countries can make their own corn-based whiskey, but they may not label it as bourbon. It also is a popular sand lucrative spirit, with Kentucky-made bourbon actually consisting of about 35% of the value of all distilled spirits produced in the U.S.  In addition, it is the largest category of exported U.S. distilled spirits, accounting for 29% of such exports.

Most importantly, Bourbon is delicious, a diverse and versatile spirit. Drink it on its own, in a cocktail or use it while cooking.

Learning more about this intriguing whiskey can be helpful and you might want to check out a compelling new book, Bourbon Curious: A Simple Tasting Guide for the Savvy Drinker by Fred Minnick (Zenith Press, August 2015). The book is available as a 240-page hardcover ($22.99) or an e-book (currently $2.99 during the month of November).  Fred is a whiskey writer who lives in Kentucky and has penned three prior books, including Whiskey Women: The Untold Story of How Women Saved Bourbon, Scotch & Irish Whiskey. His whiskey articles have been published in a variety of magazines, including Scientific American, Whisky Advocate and Whisky Magazine. In addition, he is the "Bourbon Authority" for the Kentucky Derby Museum and participates as a judge in numerous spirits competitions. Fred is also a personal friend and he certainly knows his bourbon.

“Bourbon is a lot less about what’s inside the bottle and a lot more about what you tell people.”
--Tom Bulleit

The basic idea behind this book is to dispel the myths and misconceptions about bourbon and provide accurate information about bourbon, its producers, and bottlings. The audience for this book includes everyone either curious about bourbon or who already enjoys it and consider themselves  fairly knowledgeable about the subject. There is lots of info in this book and you might find yourself turning to it often as a reference too, especially when you want to know about the specifics behind a bourbon you are drinking.

The book is broken down into three sections and Part 1 is History, Legends & Contemporary Truths. This part is divided into an Introduction and a chapter Bourbon Politics. The Introduction provides the basics of bourbon, helping to correct some misconceptions people possess, from the aging requirements of bourbon to where bourbon may be produced. It is a good introduction to bourbon, providing a nice foundation of knowledge.

"The labels, stories, and even books about bourbon are greatly influenced by the publicists and marketers who represent the brands."
--Fred Minnick

In Bourbon Politics, Fred delves into the myths and legends that have been perpetuated about bourbon, often by marketers who believe that a good story will sell alcohol, but who also know that the story doesn't have to be true. Fred breaks down these myths, providing plenty of history, noting the difference between facts and fiction. He also does not fear to tread down the darker halls of bourbon history, including its roles with whiskey traders & Native Americans and its connection to slavery and cockfighting. This is a fascinating chapter where you will likely learn plenty about bourbon's true history.

It also strikes at the heart of all alcohol, from wine to beer, rum to tequila. Marketers and publicists for all of these beverages often promote stories which may not be actually true. They understand the romance and appeal of a good story, which is intended to draw in consumers. For example, in the Champagne industry, there is the story of Dom Perignon, the alleged inventor of Champagne, who allegedly said, "Come quickly, I am drinking the stars." Yet he never said that sentence and much of his life is enveloped in other myths. However, it makes for a good story so continues to be perpetuated.

Within this chapter, Fred states: "Unlike wine, for which grape percentages are disclosed and terroir implied through the industry’s Area of Control designations, bourbon uses its label space for backstories and falsehoods." He then continues, "What you don’t see are mashbills, char levels, grain origins, true water sources, distillation techniques, entry proof into the barrel, or other production information." Just take a look at the label on a bottle of bourbon and you will see that little information, if any, is provided on the ingredients and production methods. Even checking producer websites might not garner much of that information.

In Part 2, Sources Of Flavor, there are two chapters, including Pre-fermentation and Yeast, Distillation & Wood. This part gets more geeky, into some of the science behind the ingredients and production of bourbon. The tole of corn is examined with a lengthy section of the role of GMO corn. Fred includes his own unscientific tasting test comparing bourbons made from non-GMO corn and GMO corn. He concluded that non-GMO corn bourbon tends to be more complex and taste better. However, with 90% of US corn being GMO, non-GMO bourbon is getting rarer.

Though corn is the dominant ingredient in bourbon, Fred states: "But, in the end, corn matters a lot less than the secondary grains— rye or wheat— which distillers frequently call the flavor grains." He then discusses the roles of rye and wheat, which often seems to be overlooked by many when thinking about bourbon. This Part ends with information on the importance of yeast, the role of copper in stills and the effects of barrel aging. Though some of this information is slightly more technical, it too is fascinating, giving you a better understanding of the diverse factors that combine to produce a bottle of bourbon.

The final Part, Tasting, is broken down into 6 chapters, including How To Taste and 5 other chapters that divide Bourbon into flavor profiles like Nutmeg-Forward and Caramel-Forward.  The How To Taste chapter provides simple suggestions and recommendation on how to taste bourbon, including what to look for and a number of potential aromas/flavors.

The five flavor-profile chapters are a reference source you will want to return to again and again. Within each chapter, Fred lists specific bourbons and provides the technical details about them which are lacking on the labels and producer websites. You learn info such as the mashbill, source of the grains, distillation process, barrel aging, filtering method and tasting notes. All of this information will help you find bourbons which fit your tasting preferences, as well as entice you to try other bourbon styles. This is valuable info which you would be hard pressed to find elsewhere in a single resource. In addition, you'll find several bourbon cocktail recipes within these chapters, like the Bourbon Punch.

The book ends with an Appendix giving Brand Histories, helping to provide the facts behind the myths and stories that marketers have disseminated.

Overall, this is an excellent addition to the small number of bourbon books that are available. It provides far more than just a basic introduction to bourbon, delving much deeper into its history, production and producers. It is very much an insider's book, written by someone who has spent years delving into this special whiskey. Fred has an easy writing style, even when he details some of the geekiest aspects of bourbon. I highly recommend you pick up this book and November is an excellent time to get the e-book at a special low price. It would also make an excellent holiday gift for the bourbon lover on your list.

I think I need to pour myself a glass of bourbon right now, maybe some Four Roses.

"We are living in perhaps the most exciting time in bourbon history, both from a business perspective and because of the wealth of consumer options."
--Fred Minnick

Savoring Colonel E.H.Taylor, Jr. Straight Rye

Rye is “a very inferior grain, and is only employed to avert positive famine.”
--Pliny the Elder (Roman author, 23 AD-79 AD)

Though Pliny was dismissive of rye, and there was some justification for his position, rye still possesses potential, especially in its use in whiskey. Rye is not the easiest grain to grow and it can be difficult to work with, which is why it was mainly popular in certain regions, primarily colder ones. Rye is resistant to the cold, and can survive a harsh winter much better than almost any other grain. That is part of the reason why early settlers in New England planted rye, needing a grain that could survive the cold winters.

When people started making whiskey in America, they began by using a blend of grains, such as rye, corn and wheat. Whiskey with a high proportion of rye became very popular, especially in Pennsylvania and Maryland. George Washington distilled his own whiskey, which commonly was a blend of 60% rye, 35% corn, and 5% barley. However, the popularity and availability of rye whiskey nearly vanished after Prohibition.

Before we get there though, let's explore a little more whiskey history. In 1869, Edmund Haynes (E.H.) Taylor Jr. bought a small distillery in Kentucky which he renamed the Old Fire Copper (OFC) Distillery. Taylor modernized the distillery, as well as instituted a number of innovations, which eventually earned him recognition as the father of the American whiskey industry. Taylor was also instrumental in helping to get passed the Bottled-In-Bond Act of 1897, which required spirits seeking this label to be the product of a single distiller at a single distillery during a single distillation season. Plus, the spirits needed to be aged in a federally bonded warehouse for at least 4 years and bottled at 100 proof.

Currently, rye whiskey must be produced from a mashbill that is at least 51% rye and it must be aged in charred new oak. "Straight rye" must be aged for at least two years, and any rye aged less than 4 years requires an age statement. In recent years, rye whiskey has seen a resurgence of interest and production, and I think that is a very good thing. I like the spicy notes that rye provides to whiskey, and I know that I am far from alone in that regard. Interestingly, three classic cocktails, the Old Fashioned, Manhattan and Sazerac, called for the use of rye. After Prohibition, when rye was more difficult to find, then bartenders started using bourbon as a substitute.

A good friend of mine, Fred Minnick, who also is a compelling whiskey writer, gifted me a bottle of Colonel E.H.Taylor, Jr. Straight Rye (pictured at the top of this post) and I recently tasted it. I was thoroughly impressed and have to say it is one of the best, if not the best, rye whiskey I have ever tasted. It earns my highest recommendation.

Over 100 years ago, E.H. Taylor, Jr. was producing this style of rye and Buffalo Trace Distillery decided to honor that memory with this unique rye. The mashbill contains only rye and malted barley, omitting any corn. The rye is obtained in the U.S., which differs from many others which use rye from Europe and Canada. In addition, most ryes are produced by a single distillery in Indiana but the E.H.Taylor is distilled in Kentucky by Buffalo Trace. The E.H.Taylor is bottled-in-bond so it has been aged at least four years and is 100 proof. It also has a vintage style label and sells for around $75.

I was surprised by the E.H. Taylor Rye as I was expecting something with a bold spicy profile, and instead it was far more elegant and subtle. The taste was complex, silky smooth and filled with an intriguing melange of flavors. There were delicious savory spice notes, but also some sweet vanilla and caramel, complemented with hints of mocha and dried fruit. It was seductive on my palate, and the lingering finish left me craving more. Though this Rye is 100 proof, it doesn't show in the taste so you should be careful of how much you drink as it goes down so easy. A superb sipping whiskey, I highly recommend and owe huge kudos to Fred for such a fine gift.

Thirst Boston: Whiskey--From Kentucky to Japan

With the growing popularity of Whiskey, and new distilleries constantly opening all over the world, Thirst Boston showcased whiskey in several seminars, from Bourbon to Japanese Whisky. I attended three of the Whiskey seminars and there was little overlap in the subject matter. Each presenter offered their own unique viewpoints on the topics, and we got to taste a variety of whiskey, including some that I have never tasted before. Because of my predilections, I was especially interested for the Japanese Whisky seminar.

The first seminar I attended was The Evolution of Bourbon presented by Bernie Lubbers, known as the "Whiskey Professor" and Ambassador for American Whiskey for Heaven Hill Distillery. Bernie was a funny, knowledgeable and energetic speaker, and he presented a basic history of Bourbon. This wasn't a dry recitation of historical facts, but showcased history through a tasting of whiskey representative of what would have been produced at various times in the past. He also provided the essentials of bourbon, such as discussing how corn and wheat are the two grains of Kentucky, as well as the differences between toasting and charring barrels.

Though I knew much of the history of bourbon, and have read Bernie's book Bourbon Whiskey: Our Native Spirit, there were things I learned. Though I knew George Washington was once the #1 distiller in the country, I wasn't aware that his primary customer was the U.S. Cavalry. Washington produced a rye whiskey, though it was only known then as "whiskey" and there were two versions, one distilled twice, costing 50 cents a gallon, and the other distilled four times, costing $1 a gallon. On the jug, there would be either "XX" or "XXXX" to indicate the number of distillations. Unfortunately, when Washington died, he had no children to take over his distillery so it ended up closing.

With the advent of Prohibition, those states located on the borders had an easier time as they could import, aka smuggle, alcohol from where it was legal. For example, Florida imported Caribbean Rum, Texas brought in Tequila, and Minnesota bought Canadian whiskey. Kentucky, lacking such a convenient border, often had to rely on itself, which led to them making their own moonshine, a tradition that continues to this day.

After World War II, gin started gaining in popularity so numerous bourbon producers decided to change their products to make them lighter, more gin-like in some respects. Bourbon started to be watered down from 100 proof to 86 proof. Coincidentally, to "86" something is slang for "getting rid of something." They got rid of some of the bourbon, substituting water, and they may have lost some bourbon lovers who were not pleased with the change, preferring the higher proof bottles.

Our historical tasting began with a whiskey that was reminiscent of what Washington once produced, back in the late 18th century, an un-aged whiskey made with lots of rye. The Trybox Series Un-Aged Whiskey uses the Ritttenhouse Rye recipe but without any aging, and it is 125 proof. Lots of spicy flavor and a high enough alcohol that it would be best by adding a little water to it. We then moved onto corn whiskey, both un-aged and aged, including the Georgia Moon Corn Whiskey and the Mellow Corn. The Mellow Corn, like corn whisky in the early 1800s, was aged, for four years in charred barrels and is 100 proof. Bernie described it as "popcorn with a kick" as well as the "PBR of whiskey."

By 1836, Kentucky had established a reputation for its whiskey, both corn and wheat. So we tasted the Bernheim Wheat Whiskey, which is 90 proof, and has a little sweetness from the addition of some corn. It is relatively smooth, with lots of upfront flavors, and a strong grain taste.

The next major step in bourbon was the Bottled In Bond Act of 1897, which helped to protect straight whiskey. Nowadays, very little Bottled in Bond whiskey is produced, though we tried the Evan Williams Bottled in Bond, a 100 proof bourbon that was aged for four years. This is the type of bourbon they were drinking around 1897, and it was smooth and sweet, with notes of vanilla, caramel and spicy notes on the finish.

In the modern age, the emergence of small batch and single barrel bourbon was a big innovation. We tasted the Larceny Small Batch Bourbon, which was aged for 6 years and is 92 proof. It is a "wheated bourbon" meaning that the secondary grain is wheat rather than rye. It is a nice sipping bourbon, with sweet corn notes, honey, caramel, mild spice, and a lengthy finish.

Kudos to Bernie for a fun and informative seminar.

I knew I wanted to attend the Whiskey Women seminar as my good friend, Fred Minnick, was one of the presenters. Fred is a talented writer and photographer, and often writes about whiskey topics. In fact, he recently wrote a fascinating book, Whiskey Women: The Untold Story of How Women Saved Bourbon, Scotch & Irish Whiskey, which was one of the primary focuses of this seminar. If you love whiskey, history or women, then this is a book you need to read.

Joining Fred as a presenter was Joy Richard (pictured on the left), aka “Bourbon Belle” and the Bar & Beverage Manager of Franklin Restaurant Group. Joy has long worked in restaurants and ended up working as a bartender at a dive bar in the Hamptons, acquiring a love for mixology. She is a member of Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails (LUPEC) and acquired her nickname from the name of a whiskey cocktail she created. The Bourbon Belle is made with bourbon, peach liqueur, bitters, and sweet vermouth, and was made to be an approachable cocktail.

The third presenter was Allisa Henley (pictured on the right) who is the Dickel Distillery Marketing Director and the Dickel Barrel Program Director.  Allisa was born about five miles from the distillery and she has worked for Dickel for about 9 1/2 years. The distillery is located in Tennessee, in the Bible Belt, with poses some challenges, though matters have improved over time.
.

Fred began the seminar by discussing his inspiration for his book. A new organization, Bourbon Women, started spreading the word that women were some of the first distillers. Fred wondered why no one had really told this story before so he began researching the matter to write just such a history. Fred continued his talk, providing a brief historical summary of some of women's contributions to brewing and distilling, back to the time of the ancient Sumerians. The historical outline continued to the modern day, highlighting some of the women that now occupy important and influential spots in the whiskey industry.

His presentation was compelling, providing lots of fascinating historical tidbits, and enticing attendees to want to read his book. In fact, each attendee received a hardcover copy of his book as part of their ticket, and the seminar didn't cost anymore than the other seminars. After his presentation, Joy and Allisa spoke about their own experiences in whiskey and spirits, and later Fred asked them both a series of questions about women and whiskey. It was compelling to hear their viewpoints, and the stories of their lives with whiskey. The overall presentation gave plenty of evidence of the significant role women have played in whiskey both historically and in the present. It isn't a man's world, and hasn't ever really been so.  

One of my favorite slides from Fred's presentation was why "women were the best bootleggers" during Prohibition. You see plenty of stories about male bootleggers, from Al Capone to Lucky Luciano, but when was the last time you heard of a female bootlegger? 

Of course we got to sample some whiskey. First, we began with a tasty Whiskey Punch, made with Dickel #12, black tea and lemon. It sees like black tea is being used more and more in cocktails, and I fully approve. We then moved onto Bulleit Bourbon, which is made with about 28% rye, making it very different to many other bourbons. It is a mix of sweet and spicy, and is good on its own or in a cocktail.

Next up were three Dickel Whiskies. The Dickel Rye, which has only been out for about a year, is made from 94% Rye, is about 5-6 years old, and undergoes cold filtration, making it taste smoother and mellowing some of the spice notes. I was impressed with this Rye, especially as it is priced around $25 or so. The Dickel #8, is made from a blend of 84% corn, 8% rye, & 8% malted barley, is 5-7 years old and is 80 proof. It has an intriguing smoky finish, and those who enjoy Scotch were said to like this whiskey. The Dickel #12 uses the same mashbill, is 7-9 years old and is 90 proof. It didn't seem as sweet and lacked the smokiness of the #8. The additional age and higher proof definitely create a different tasting product.

Kudos to Fred, Joy, Allisa and all the women who have contributed to the history of whiskey.

I was eager to attend the seminar, Japanese Whisky: Pride. Perfection. Passion, as the Japanese Whisky industry has been producing so much excellent whisky, which has won some of the top international whisky awards. However, in the local area, only a few Japanese whiskies are available and it is always interesting when a new product hits the shelves, such as Nikka Whisky
. Brought in by the Anchor Distilling Company, this seminar was an excellent introduction to their whisky.

The presenters included Alyssa DiPasquale, advanced Sake professional and manager at O Ya, and Nick Korn, a bartender and Japanese whisky enthusiast. The presenters did a good job of providing a brief history of Japanese whisky production, background on Nikka, and some general information on Japanese alcohol. There would also be a tasting of Nikka whisky accompanied by a couple snacks from O Ya.

One of the initial ideas presented was the Japanese concept of Shokunin, which roughly translates as "craftsman" or "artisan" but it goes beyond mere technical skill. It also comes with a social obligation to work for the general good of the community. How many Western artisans, such as whiskey makers, see their work through this lens? I have seen some wineries,distilleries and breweries (and also chefs) who possess a strong social consciousness. They may not know the concept of Shokunin, but they are still adherents without even knowing it.

In 1854, when Commodore Matthew Perry came to Japan to negotiate a treaty to open Japan to the world, he brought a few hundred gallons of American whiskey with him as a gift. The Japanese were quite taken with it and tried to imitate the whisky by adding additives to Sake and Shochu but that was largely a failure. I've read of an incident during World War I, when a couple U.S. transport ships landed in Japan, en route to Russia. At a local bar, the American soldiers drank some Japanese-made "Queen George" whiskey and an American officer stated "I never saw so many get so drunk so fast."

Deliverance finally came in the form of Masataka Taketsuru, whose family had been Sake brewers since 1733 (and still are involved in Sake production). In 1918, Taketsuru traveled to Scotland to learn the secrets of distilling and eventually brought his new knowledge back to Japan. Taketsuru ended up working for Kotobukiya (now Suntory) and helped to establish the first whisky distiller in Yamazaki. In 1934, Taketsuru went out on his own, forming Nikka Whisky
 and established the Yoichi distillery in Hokkaido. He believed that this location was very similar to Scotland, and he would later establish, in 1969, a second distillery, Miyagikyo, in Sendai. As a follow-up, during World War II, American soldiers in the Pacific were enamored with Japanese whisky.   

Japanese whisky production is about 90% similar to that of Scotch however one of the most important differences involves their use of wort, a liquid produced during the mashing process. In Scotland, they generally use a cloudy wort, which contains husk chunks, and will add grain flavors to the whiskey. The Japanese though use a clear, or crystal, wort, which doesn't contain anything else. Thus, the wort doesn't add any grain flavors to the whisky and it leads to Japanese whiskies often being said to have a purer or brighter flavor.

At Nikka, the art of blending is vital to their whiskey production and it is said there are 2000 permutations of whiskey available at any one time. This comes from different peats, 12 different still types, different aged whisky, different barrel types, different parts of the warehouse and more. They also use a special, native oak, Mizunara, which is expensive, difficult to work with, and imparts little flavor to whisky. It actually takes 40-50 years of use to provide flavor. Such a fascinating process, and uniquely Japanese.

It should be noted that even Japanese whisky is created to be food friendly. Because of this, O Ya provided us a couple snacks, Miso Pickles and Rice Crackers wrapped in Nori. All of the Nikka whiskies we tasted were 12 years old, intended to give us a better idea of the differences between the whiskies based on everything beside their age.

We had two cocktails, the first being the Sakura, which means "cherry blossom." It contained Nikka 12 year old, Italian vermouth, a reduction with Moresca cherry wine, Luxardo Maraschino liquer, and a salted cherry blossom. It had a bright cherry flavor, wasn't too sweet, and the whiskey notes weren't hidden behind the cherry flavors. The Mizuwari cocktail is kind of a whiskey soda, containing the Nikka Coffee Grain whiskey, homemade soda water, and sweet green tea. Mixed with water, you bring the alcohol content down by about 20%, making it a less potent alternative.

Next up, the two 12 year old whiskies were from the two different distilleries, Miyagikyo & Yoichi. The Miyagikyo is the more feminine whisky, being light, softer and more elegant. It had some nice spice, mellow caramel notes and more fruit flavors on the finish. The Yocihi is the more masculine, being bolder, spicier, less fruity and with a smoky edge. I preferred the Yoichi though I enjoyed the Miyagikyo as well. Both possesses a nice complexity and depth of flavor. For now, the Yoichi 12 is not available in the U.S., though the Yoichi 15 year old is available. The Miyagikyo 12 is also available.

We finished our tasting with the Taketsuru Pure Malt, a blend of whisky from both the Yoichi and Miyagikyo distilleries. This was a whisky of power and balance, complexity and rich flavors. It was smoky with peaty notes, with elements of autumn baking spices, apples, caramel, cocoa and more. So much going on in this whisky, and the finish just lingers in your mouth. A superb sipping whisky which is going to appeal to any whiskey lover. Definitely my favorite of the seminar. There are also Taketsuru 17 and 21 year old whiskies that I'll have to track down.

Keep an eye out for Nikka whisky.

Domo Arigato and Kanpai to Alyssa and Nick.

Savoring Michter's Original Sour Mash Whiskey:

George Washington, our first President, was a lover of whiskey. His passion for whiskey was so great that by 1798, he became the country's largest distiller, making 11,000 gallons of whiskey at Mount Vernon. During the Revolutionary War, in the frigid winter at Valley Forge, Washington bought Michter's rye whiskey for his men. Michter's would later say they were “the whiskey that warmed the American Revolution.”

The history of Michter’s extends back to the mid-eighteenth century, when John Shenk, a Swiss Mennonite farmer, settled in Pennsylvania. In 1753, he constructed a small distillery to produce rye whiskey and it soon became very popular, including with Washington. Prohibition forced Michter’s to close though it would reopen once repeal arrived. Unfortunately, Michter's faced bankruptcy in 1989 and that could have been the end of its history as its stills and whiskey stocks were sold.

However, in the 1990s, Joseph J. Magliocco and Richard Newman sought to bring back Michter's, to raise it again to his previous glories. One of their major changes was to relocate from Pennsylvania to Kentucky, and they had a new distillery constructed. They eventually brought on Master Distiller Willie Pratt, who has over forty years of distilling experience, to produce Michter's whiskey. The distillery now concentrates on single-barrel rye, single-barrel bourbon, very small batch bourbon, and unblended American whiskey.

During the 1970’s and 1980’s, Michter's most popular product was their Original Sour Mash Whiskey. When bankruptcy struck, production was stopped though it has only recently, in December 2012, been resurrected.  In a process some liken to making sourdough bread, sour mash whiskey uses a portion of previously fermented mash as a starter for a new mash. Commonly, the previously fermented mash constitutes 10-20% of the new mash. This is done to make the fermentation process quicker as well as create a rounder and smoother whiskey. And it does not give it a sour taste in the least.

Michter’s Original Sour Mash also uses a proprietary mashbill made from a special selection of grains. It is aged in charred, new American white oak barrels and produced in small batches. It is bottled at 86 proof and seems priced at $45-$55. I have never previously tasted any of the Michter's products, though have heard very positive reviews from my friend and whiskey writer, Fred Minnick. I received a media sample of their Sour Mash and brought it with me to my local poker game, to share it with several other whiskey lovers. How would it fare?

It fared quite well, with a number of people refilling their glasses on multiple occasions. Though several other whiskeys were available to them, they chose to keep drinking the Michter's Original Sour Mash. I too was impressed with this Sour Mash. Up front, there was an interesting and complex melange of flavors, including vanilla, orange peel, caramel and chocolate notes (reminiscent of a less sweet bourbon) while the finish came with more subtle spice notes, bringing to mind a pleasant rye. Smooth and easy drinking, there was no bite on the finish. I drank it neat though others drank it with ice.

This is a whiskey I would keep in my home bar, and which would impress my whiskey loving guests. It also motivates me to seek out more of Michter's products, from their bourbons to their ryes. I give the Michter's Original Sour Mash whiskey a strong recommendation.

2012: Favorite Restaurants

What were some of my favorite restaurants of the past year?

I have already posted several of my drink-related Favorites' lists and and now I want to concentrate on my Favorite Restaurants of the past year. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of memorable matters I have experienced and/or posted about over the past year. You will even find Favorites from outside Massachusetts as I traveled some this past year.

There is also a section later in this post called Consistent Favorites, and it includes a list of a number of restaurants which have been my favorites for subsequent years. Restaurants which are consistently good certainly deserve recognition, and I have tried to note some of those places to which I return again and again. I hope you enjoy all of my recommendations.

Favorite High-End Restaurant: Superb cuisine, an amazing wine list and impeccable service combine to make L'Espalier a Boston treasure. I have dined there before, and always been impressed, and this past year I attended an amazing Barons de Rothschild Champagne lunch and Cheese Tuesday. The restaurant can transform even the simplest of dishes, such as roast chicken, into a wonder. It is well worth the splurge.

Favorite Restaurant Comeback: My last visit to Avila Modern Mediterranean had been a few years ago and my dinner was disappointing. A few others who I spoke to at that time had also reported less than pleasant experiences. However this year, I recently attended a Glenmorangie Scotch dinner at Avila and was surprised at the high quality and creativity of the food. It was an amazing meal with such compelling items like goat cheese croquettes, creamy corn soup, chicken liver ravioli, and braised Waygu beef cheeks. It seems Avila has greatly improved and I will definitely return.

Unfortunate Tragedy to a Favorite Restaurant: Prezza, in the North End, has been one of my favorite high-end Italian spot but this past July the restaurant suffered a kitchen fire. For the last six months, they have been closed as they have conducted extensive repairs and remodeling. This has been a great loss to the community but fortunately it appears the restaurant is set to reopen any day now. When they reopen, please dine there and give them your support. Their food is exceptional and I am sure you will enjoy whatever you order. Good luck to Chef/Owner Anthony Caturano and all his staff.

Favorite Local Food Dinner Series: Numerous Boston area restaurants are emphasizing local ingredients but special kudos must go out to Post 390 for their monthly Farm to Post dinner series. Each month they emphasize a different local purveyor, from farmers to fishermen, and not only use their products but also bring in the purveyors to talk to diners. That helps diners better understand the sources of their food and it also helps immensely that the food is creative and delicious. Check out their Farm to Post dinners.

Favorite North End Restaurant, Old School: Lucia Ristorante, with a second location in Winchester, opened in the North End back in 1977 and recently celebrated its 35th anniversary. It is very much old school yet the food is actually quite tasty. Their chef's skill was quite evident at a fantastic polenta dinner and their anniversary celebration also emphasized their culinary skills. You may not consider Lucia when selecting a North End restaurant, but you should give it some consideration. Their Winchester location also carries excellent pizzas.

Favorite Italian Restaurant Outside the North End: For some of the most creative Italian fare in Boston, you can't go wrong with Erbaluce, Chef Chuck Draghi continues to impress with his unique take on many traditional Italian dishes and the restaurant also has a compelling Italian wine list. How many other restaurants in Boston make fried sunflower heads? His dishes, generally prepared without butters and creams, are often lighter yet still full of flavor. Dine there and check out their ever changing menu or attend one of their compelling events.

Favorite Spanish Restaurant: Chef Deborah Hansen of Taberna de Haro in Brookline continues to invest great passion into her Spanish cuisine. The restaurant has recently expanded in size, nearly doubling, and have added a bar. They are also adding more Spanish wines to their already expansive wine list, including more Sherries. One of their newest culinary events is Roasted Sucking Pig Tuesdays, which I haven't yet attended but plan to do so soon.    

Favorite Mexican Restaurant: Chef Joe Cassinelli of Pizzeria Posto, one of my favorite Italian spots, opened a second restaurant, The Painted Burro, which offers Mexican cuisine. The food I tasted during my two dinners and brunch there have all impressed, including the Yucatan Meatloaf. I am usually not a meatloaf fan but this opened my eyes to the potential and I cannot recommend it enough. The Burro also has an extensive list of tequilas and mezcals, with plenty of tasty cocktails. A great addition to the local area.

Favorite Suburban Restaurant, Italian: Italian restaurants are ubiquitous in the suburbs, but too many of them are simply average. However, the new A Tavola in Winchester, the second restaurant of Chef Vittorio Ettore (who also owns Bistro 5 in Medford) rises above the masses. Lots of Piattini, small plates, make a great way to start your dinner from their homemade charcuterie to seafood dishes. Then you can move onto their killer pasta, their exceptional risotto, smoky Porchetta and more. It is an intimate restaurant, showcasing the culinary genius of Chef Ettore, and can compete with any Boston restaurant.

Favorite BYOB Restaurant: In the suburbs, you can find a number of BYOB restaurants and one of them is my usual go to spot when I want to bring my own wine or Sake. Kyotoya, in Stoneham, is an inexpensive Japanese restaurant with delicious food, such as superb tempura, and they do not charge a corkage fee. I have dined there numerous times, usually bringing wine or Sake, and those I have introduced to the place have all very much enjoyed it.

Favorite New Hampshire Restaurant: Moxy, situated in Portsmouth, would shine wherever it was located. Chef Matt Louis, with an impressive culinary resume, has created a superb restaurant which emphasizes Spanish inspired tapas, using local ingredients and a New England flair. The food is excellent and the menu concept works well. They also have a good drinks program, from wine to cocktails and including numerous local beers. I would even stop there just for their desserts, such as mini-Whoopie pies. It gets my highest recommendation and I eagerly look forward to my next visit.

Favorite Connecticut Restaurant, Casual: At the Mohegan Sun Casino, there are plenty of restaurants but which one should you select? For amazing fried chicken, in a casual atmosphere, check out Big Bubba's BBQ. The restaurant serves BBQ and southern cuisine and the plates are quite large, stacked high with food. The Finger Lickin Fried Chicken plate included two large chicken breasts and two wings, more than enough chicken to satisfy any craving. It was superb, perfectly cooked, with a nice crispy and well seasoned coating and very moist, tender white meat.

Favorite Connecticut Restaurant, High-End: If you are seeking something more elegant for dinner at the Mohegan Sun, then Bobby Flay's Bar Americain would be a good choice. It has a menu of American favorites, some with a southern flair, as well as plenty of fresh seafood. The food is delicious, well prepared, and worth the high prices. Enjoy their Buttermilk Fried Chicken or Duck with Dirty Wild Rice, Pecans, & Bourbon. I would also highly recommend ordering a side of Hot Potato Chips with Blue Cheese Sauce, a decadent delight with crisp chips and a creamy, tangy sauce.

Favorite Louisville Restaurant, Casual: Sometimes you stumble upon a restaurant and end up having a delicious meal. Seeking a quick lunch, I stopped at the Bluegrass Burgers in Louisville, Kentucky, knowing nothing about it beforehand. This burger joint prides itself in serving mostly local ingredients, from their meats to their produce. The Kentucky Grass Fed Bison Burger, topped by local Bleu-Gouda cheese, was an excellent burger, moist with plenty of tasty flavor and the cheese added an intriguing and compelling element. Their sweet potato fries were also addictive, with a bright sweet potato flavor and a crisp exterior. I wish we had a burger place like this in the Boston area.

Favorite Louisville Restaurant, Mid-Range: Another restaurant dedicated to local ingredients, Harvest has huge portraits of the farmers they use on their walls. The food, from the Buttermilk Fried Chicken to Crispy Pork Confit, is tasty and reasonably priced. And for dessert, their Bourbon Bread Pudding was amazing, one of the best bread puddings I have tasted. It has a casual ambiance, a good wine list and service was excellent. A great choice in Louisville, Kentucky.

Favorite Louisville Restaurant, High-End: After attending the Kentucky Derby, a group of us went to Corbett's for a special post-Derby prix-fixe menu. From a Smoked Salmon Parfait to a Creekstone Tenderloin, the food was exquisite, with killer wine pairings and superb service in an intimate dining area. The cuisine could compete with any high-end restaurant in Boston.

Favorite Nova Scotia Bakery: While visiting Dartmouth, my hotel was just around the corner from the Two If By Sea Cafe, where I had heard they made exceptional croissants. I found that was not an understatement. They are heavier than the usual croissant, containing far more layers, and probably weigh at least twice as much than the usual croissant. Yet they remain flaky and soft throughout the croissant, each bite a pure delight. Their prosciutto & cheese was my favorite, the prosciutto adding a salty flair to the croissant and some of the ham that stuck out the ends was satisfyingly crispy. This is one of the best croissants I have ever tasted, putting to shame so many meager ham & cheese croissants. Highly recommended.

Favorite Nova Scotia Restaurant: In Halifax, Chives Canadian Bistro offers a menu based on seasonal produce from local farmers, artisan cheese and meat producers, and sustainable seafood. The cuisine offers contemporary Canadian bistro dishes rooted in European culinary history. It is an intimate place, with cool decor, and the food and wine impressed. General Tao's Bacon, New Orleans Po' Boy Sandwich, Lobster Tagliatelle and more. The chef has won numerous awards and they are well deserved.

Favorite Carnivore Dinner: It is no secret that I love meat. When I traveled to Tuscany, I had a dinner that would have satiated even the most demanding carnivore. At the Officina della Bistecca, famed butcher Dario Cecchini offers an incredible prix fixe meal, which includes five courses of beef. All of the meat was superb, especially the beef tartare, which melted in my mouth. Cecchini uses high quality beef, simply prepared, and the flavor fills your mouth with joy. Seated at communal tables, dinner is more of an experience than simply a meal. My highest recommendation.

Favorite Dessert: At the Red Lantern in Boston, their Pineapple Bread Pudding, with coconut ice cream, was superb, a perfect blend of tropical flavors. The bread pudding had a nice firm, but soft, texture and it was bursting with fresh pineapple flavors. I really think an enterprising baker should open a bread pudding dessert shop, offering a variety of different bread puddings. Forget cup cakes, let us see more bread puddings.

Consistent Favorites

Favorite Brunch, Traditional Fare: For a third year, the winner is AKA Bistro in Lincoln.

Brunch, Traditional Fare-Honorable Mention: For a third year, my choice is Tupelo in Inman Square.

Favorite Brunch, Non-Traditional Fare: For the fourth year in a row, the winner is Myers & Chang in the South End.

Favorite Suburban Restaurant: For the third year in a row, the winner is AKA Bistro in Lincoln.

Favorite Japanese Restaurant: For a third year, the winner is Oishii in the South End.

Favorite Chinatown Restaurant: For a third year, the winner is Gourmet Dumpling House.

Favorite Somerville Restaurant: Last year, Bergamot was my Overall Favorite Restaurant and it continues to be worthy of kudos. I haven't been there as much this past year but need to remedy that in the new year. My highest recommendation.

Favorite Underappreciated Restaurant: For the third year, the winner is T.W. Food in Cambridge.

Favorite Asian Buffet: For a fourth year, the winner is Taipei Tokyo Cafe in Woburn.

Favorite North End Restaurant, High End: For a third year, the winnner is Prezza.

Favorite North End Restaurant, Moderate: For a third year, the winner is Nebo.

Favorite North End Restaurant, Fusion: For a third year, the winner is Taranta.

Favorite Italian Restaurant, Somerville: For a third year, the winner is Pizzeria Posto.

Favorite Suburban Steak House: For a fourth year, the winner is Beacon Grille in Woburn. 

Favorite Fried Seafood: For a third year, the winner is the Clam Box in Ipswich.

What were some of your favorite restaurants this year?

Boston Cocktail Summit: Spirit Recommendations

You can't have a conference dedicated to spirits and cocktails unless you provide plenty to taste and drink. At the Boston Cocktail Summit, they certainly provided ample opportunity for tasting and drinking, from some of the seminars to the evening parties. In addition, there was a Craft & Fine Spirits Showcase, separated into a Grand Tasting Room and a Craft Distiller's Hall, where a myriad of spirits and cocktails were presented for sampling.

I spent several hours on Saturday sampling in these two rooms, generally passing on those spirits I already knew, seeking out the different, interesting, unique and unusual. Tasting so many spirits is not an easy task, as even if you spit, you still absorb some of the alcohol. It is more difficult than wine tasting due to the much higher alcohol content of the spirits. Fortunately, both rooms had some snacks to help cleanse your palate and absorb some of the alcohol. Plus, taking a lunch break, a burger and tater tots, helped keep me going for  more tasting in the afternoon.

This is a great time in the spirits world, and there has never been a greater number and diversity of artisan and high-end spirits available. No matter what your preference, you can find plenty to please your palate. And if you are adventurous, you will find much to satisfy you, much to delight and tantalize you. I am going to highlight some of the alcohols which most impressed and excited me, those which intrigued me because of their uniqueness and fine taste. I may follow up on some of these spirits in the future, to gain more information about their creation, and if so, I will report back.

Let me start with some local spirits. I previously toured Turkey Shore Distilleries, sampling three of their rums. At the Summit, they presented their newest offering, which had only been bottled less than a week before. The Old Ipswich Golden Marsh Spiced Rum, a limited edition, is basically a blend of 80% of their White Cap rum and 20% of their Tavern Style Amber with the addition of ten different spices. Master Distiller Evan Parker says, "With the cooler weather, we created a flavor profile that is perfect for those crisp days out and about or for those cold nights by the fire."

The rum presents a bright, golden yellow color and a spicy aroma, which will bring to mind autumn and cool weather. It has a smooth taste, with delicious fall spice notes and hints of orange peel. This is definitely a rum to enjoy now, either on its own or in a cocktail. Evan states, "For a simple, tasty cocktail, you can pair Golden Marsh Spiced Rum with ginger beer or hot cider." I could easily see this rum added to some hot cider.

They also had an intriguing cocktail to taste, which was made from the Golden Marsh Spiced rum, caramel, butterscotch liqueur, and spiced apple cider, topped with a Pumpkin Munchkin. The rum complemented this drink very much and I think apple cider is a great pairing. The guys from Turkey Shore, Mat Perry and Evan Parker have created another winner.

Grand Ten Distilling is another local distillery, located in South Boston, and Luke O'Neil has just written an interesting article in The Phoenix about this distillery. For background on the distillery, you should check out his article though it only discusses their Wire Works Gin (which I did not taste). I tasted three of their other products and found all three to be interesting.

The Amandine Barrel Aged Almond Liqueur spends about 6 months in 30 gallon American oak barrels. They use 30 gallon barrels as it is easier for two people to move them around rather than the usual 53 gallon barrels. The barrels are toasted, not charred, as they do not want the barrels to filter out any of the taste. All the color of liqueur is due to the barrels. The liqueur had a pleasant almond taste, not too sweet, and would make a fine addition to a cocktail. The Angelica Botanical Liqueur is made with angelica root, cinnamon, orange peel and cloves. It too is not sweet, but is aromatic and floral with a fresh, clean taste and slight hints of spice. Another liqueur that would add interesting flavors and aromas to a cocktail. The Fire Puncher Fire Vodka has a hickory smoked and pepper flavor, and I found the peppery notes to be far more prominent than the mild smokiness. It is farily easy drinking and would be great in a Bloody Mary.

Another local company, in Somerville, is Infusion Diabolique which is a collaboration between Executive Chef Robert Fathman and Brandon Bach, both who worked at Azure. They produce infused alcohols and at the Summit showcased two of them, their bourbon and tequila, though it appears they also make an infused rum. They are all infused with natural fruits, herbs and spices.

The Infusion Diabolioque Kentucky uses a four year old bourbon and infuses it with dried organic Black Mission figs, Madagascar & Tahitian vanilla, cinnamon, star anise, black currants, cloves, and allspice. It smells like typical bourbon with subtle spicy notes and on the palate, the bourbon flavor is enhanced by subtle fruit flavors with a pleasant melange of spices. It was smooth and easy drinking, and would satisfy you on its own, though it would do well in a cocktail too. The Infusion Diabolioque Mixto is a silver tequila infused with sweet pineapple, Persian limes, cardamon, and mint. Up front, the usual tequila flavors are most prominent, but it then transforms into a more complex blend with some tropical fruit accents and subtle mint. The finish is smooth and long, with hints of lime. Again, it would work well on its own or in a cocktail.

Dunc's Mill is the oldest continuously operating distillery in Vermont. The founder, Duncan Holaday, previously created Vermont Spirits but now has moved on to creating local rum. He currently produces two rums, both which are made from Fair Trade, organic sugar cane and Vermont flavors. The Elderflower Flavored Rum is created with Vermont elderflower blossoms and Austrian elder essence, which is infused into a light rum. I was impressed with this rum, which possessed a delightful floral aroma, and on the palate was smooth, clean and dry with a prominent, but not overwhelming, taste of elderflower. It was a well balanced spirit which reminded me somewhat of a dry version of St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur. I am not a huge fan of maple flavor but their Maple Flavored Rum, made from Vermont maple syrup, was pleasant. It was dry and possessed a milder maple profile, once again also smooth and clean. Another well balanced spirit, you should check out both these rums.

In 2006, the Consejo Regulador Del Tequila (CRT), the ruling tequila body in Mexico, added a couple new tequila categories: Extra Anejo and Infused Blanco Tequila. Tanteo has taken advantage ot the later of the two categories and currently produces three Infused 100% De Agave Tequilas ($36-$40). Their inspiration was the fruit cups, topped with chiles, they found in Mexico. Their blanco tequilas, Jalapeno, Cocoa and Tropical, are infused with natural ingredients, such as organic jalapenos.

Their Jalapeno was my favorite of the three, and it is produced by infusing organic jalapenos, hand-sliced, which are mixed in a 10,000 gallon tank with the tequila. On the nose, there is some grassy notes as well as the typical agave, and on the palate, the tequila flavor was very prominent up front. On the finish, rather than the usual tequila bite, you ended up with a spicy and delicious jalapeno burn. It was not overly spicy, but very noticeable and I loved that heat. I could easily enjoy this on its own though it would make great cocktails as well.

The Cocoa is made with roasted, malted and raw cocoa, like a traditional mole, and has a little jalapeno added as well. It presented a strong cocoa flavor atop the tequila notes, a strange combo that actually worked, and certainly was intriguing, though not my personal preference for a spirit. Yet I could see it working well in the right cocktail. The only issue is that I didn't get much of a jalapeno kick to this tequila. The Tropical is infused with pineapple, mango, and guanabana, also known as soursop, and there was a little jalapeno added too. The tropical fruits added subtle flavors, enhancing the tequila, though again the jalapeno wasn't really assertive. I could see this tequila working well in a tropical cocktail.

The Macchu Pisco La Diablada is intended to be a high-end Peruvian Pisco and is currently not available in the U.S. but that will hopefully change soon. They only make 1000 bottles so even when it becomes available, it will be in very limited supply. La Diablada is a blend of 3 Pisco grapes: Quebranta, Moscatel and Italia. It is rested, not aged, for about 18 months and sees no oak. It is very aromatic with a smooth taste of herbs and fruit, with some underlying spiciness. A complex taste with a lengthy and pleasing finish. Though many know of the Pisco Sour, this is a Pisco that you might want to enjoy on its own, rather than as the base for a cocktail.

I love a good bourbon and the Rock Hill Farms Bourbon, produced at Buffalo Trace, really excited my palate. It is a single barrel, Kentucky Straight bourbon that is 100 proof, though you probably won't notice the alcohol is that high. It is an excellent sipping bourbon, smooth, complex and absolutely delicious with nice vanilla notes and intriguing spicy elements on the finish. This is definitely a bourbon I will add to my home bar.

Brendan Edwards of Third Wave Brands, a supplier of spirits and wines, presented several different brands (including Montanya Distillers, Delirio de Oaxaca, and Cariel Vodka) and I found them compelling.

Montanya Distillers, owned by Karen & Brice Hoskin, was founded in 2008 and is now located in Crested Butte, Colorado. which is is the West Elk Mountain range of southwest Colorado. They currently produce two rums, the Platino Light Rum and Oro Dark Rum. The rums are all natural, each made with only four ingredients, including water, sugar cane, yeast and honey. The water comes from Colorado mountain springs while the sugar cane is from Maui, Hawaii. At the time of bottling, a tiny bit of Colorado mountain honey is added to the rum.

The Oro is aged in a fresh, American oak whiskey barrel that previously held Stranahan's Colorado Whiskey. The Oro was a fine sipping rum, with a pleasant blend of flavors, including vanilla, honey, caramel, and mocha hints. I really enjoyed it and would drink it both straight or in a cocktail. The Platino is aged in a barrel that once aged Oro, so the barrel has far less effect on the rum. The Platino is also filtered and I found it to be very aromatic, a lighter rum with vanilla and herbal notes. For me, it would be best used in a cocktail.

Delirio de Oaxaca is a traditional palenque in Matatlan, Oaxaca, producing Mezcal by Master Distiller Fernando Santibanez. The Mezcal Joven is double distilled in copper alembics from 100% Agave Espadin and only 10,000 bottles were produced. It had an intriguing smoky nose with a prominent taste of agave fruit and a mild smokiness. Quite tasty and I could drink it on its own or in a cocktail. The Mezcal Reposado has been aged for about 4 months in lightly toasted American oak and only 5000 bottles were produced. It had a lighter nose of smoke, and on the palate it was softer and more subtle, with the same delicious fruit flavors and hints of smoke. Again, another winner.

Cariel Vodka was created by Master Blender Peter Carlson in Sweden, who desired to create a vodka with natural flavor and the product just came on the U.S. market in July. It is produced from Swedish winter wheat and barley, as well as glacial water from Lake Vattern. I found the vodka to have an almost subtle sweetness to the aroma, with an intriguing and smooth taste, elements of herbs, grain, and subtle peach flavors. It is definitely not a tasteless vodka but rather presents an enticing melange of subtle tastes. I was impressed. They also produce a Vanilla Vodka, made with the addition of vanilla from Southern India and Madagascar. It had a big, bold vanilla aroma and flavor, yet it remains only mildly sweet, not cloying like many other flavored vodkas. I can see this working well in the right cocktail.

Koval Distillery, founded in 2008, was the first craft distillery in Chicago since Prohibition. The founders, Robert and Sonat Birnecker, gave up their academic careers to create the distillery. Using custom-made Kothe potsills, they produce organic and kosher liqueurs and whiskey. The whiskey is made in small batches from 100% Midwest organic grain from Midwest and aged in 30 gallon organic oak from a Minnesota cooperage.

My favorite of the three I tasted was the Lion's Pride Dark Rye, made from 100% Rye. It presented nice vanilla and bold spice flavors with hints of citrus. A nice sipping whiskey. The Lion's Pride Dark Millet had a more earthy flavor with vanilla accents. The Lion's Pride 47th Ward is made from a mash bill of rye, wheat, oat and malted barley, and is aged in heavily charred oak. Each grain is distilled separately. This is a complex and spicy whiskey, but at 94 proof, you probably need to add a little water to mute some of the alcoholic heat.

In general, I am not much of a Gin guy because I find too many gins with a strong juniper taste. But, I have found myself enjoying much more the ancestor to gin, Genever, which is made with numerous botanicals and where any juniper flavor is far more subtle. Veronique Beittel is the owner of Flemish Lion, an importing company, based in Vermont, of Belgium Genever. She even has an informative website of information about Genever. At the Summit, she was showcasing two Genevers from Diep9.

The Diep Young Genever is distilled using 19th century techniques, hand crafted in a traditional copper pot at De Moor, Belgium's smallest family owned distillery. It is produced with a combination of rye, wheat, malted barley, and nine botanicals. Those botanicals include juniper berries, sweet orange peel, blessed thistle, carob, nutmeg, guinea pepper, angelica root, cinnamon and coriander. I liked the herbal blend on this spirit, which was relatively smooth and easy drinking. I think the key was the balance of the botanicals, that none of them seemed to overpower the others. The Diep9 Old Genever is distilled using 16th century techniques and is barrel aged for two years in French oak. It is also packaged in an old style clay bottle. Though it too has a balanced, herbal taste there is also a deeper, earthier element, which really intrigued me. Try these Genevers and let them open your eyes to the possibilities.

Palm Bay International is a distributor of wines and spirits and they showcased several of their products at the Summit, from mezcal to whiskey.

Los Amantes, which translates as "the lovers" and is inspired by an ancient Aztec legend, produces Mezcal  made of 100% agave from Oaxaca. Only a small supply of this traditionally produced spirit is available in the U.S. The Joven has about 2 months of barrel aging and the nose had a mild smokiness with a bit of brininess as well. On the palate, it was smokier, with strong fruit flavors and a nice smoothness to the finish. Delicious and easy drinking. The Reposado has been aged for about 6 months in American oak and its taste was superb, a complex melange of flavors, smokiness and subtle accents of fruit. An excellent sipping spirit, it is highly recommended.

The Bastille 1789 is a French blended whisky hand-crafted in the Cognac region and produced from barley and wheat grown in northeast France. Their water derives from the Gensac Spring and it is naturally filtered through limestone. It has been finished in French Limousin oak casks. It was an intriguing whiskey, with a complex blend of flavors, with orange notes, dried fruits, honey and Christmas spices. There was a mild earthy backbone, and it was smooth and easy drinking with a satisfying finish.

The Irishman, founded in 1999 by Bernard and Rosemary Walsh, produce a line of Irish whiskey based products. The Original Clan is a pot still blend of 70% single malt and 30% pure pot still. It was triple distilled and matured in bourbon casks. This was produced in a pre-Prohibition style and is said be be a "gateway" Irish whiskey. This is a delightful sipping whiskey, with delicious flavors of caramel, honey, vanilla and butterscotch as well as slight undertones of pepper and spice. It goes down so easy and lingers in your mouth for a long time. I can understand why so many people will enjoy this whiskey.

The Single Malt is produced from 100% malted barley, was triple distilled and then matured in first-fill bourbon and sherry oak casks. Only 1000 cases of this whiskey were made. This is a more serious whiskey, being complex, subtle and intriguing. There is less sweetness than the Original Clan and a bit more spice, and the finish is even longer and more pleasing. This is definitely a whiskey to slowly sip and savor, and will appeal to whiskey aficionados.

The Superior Irish Cream is a blend of real Irish cream and 100% Irish whiskey, with added hints of vanilla and toffee. All of the ingredients are natural and it does not contain any thickening agents or artificial ingredients. It is based on an old family recipe and was a satisfying pleasure. There is a thick, creaminess to the drink and the whiskey flavors are not hidden in the least. It does not taste artificial in any way, and with winter approaching, you might want to stock up on a couple bottles for those chilly evenings. Add a bit to your coffee or tea, or just drink it on its own.

Jefferson's Bourbon: The Art of Blending

After visiting two bourbon distilleries, I met with the founder of another bourbon company, but one which does not distill any of its own bourbon. Instead, they engage in the art of blending, producing intriguing small batch bourbons.

While having lunch at Proof on Main with my good friend Fred Minnick, we were joined by Trey Zoeller, the founder of Jefferson's Bourbon, and his father, Chet Zoeller, the author of Bourbon in Kentucky: A History Of Distilleries in Kentucky. It was an informal meeting but the subject of bourbon dominated our discussion. Both Trey and Chet were very personable, and it was a very pleasant and informative lunch. I still though would have liked to spend even more time with them, discussing bourbon and their company.

Trey's family roots in alcohol production extend back at least eight generations, to his great, great, etc. grandmother, Martha McLain, who was a moonshiner. Unfortunately for her, she ran afoul of the law. Around 1799, Martha was arrested for selling liquor without a proper license, which she was doing only to support her six children.

(Trey on the left, Fred Minnick in the middle, and Chet on the right)

Trey began blending bourbon back in 1997 and launched his own line in April 1998. He purchases all of his bourbon from other distilleries, often small unique lots which larger distilleries don't find profitable enough to disseminate. He generally blends about 3-4 different bourbon recipes, from 8-12 barrels, to create the three different Jefferson's Bourbons. These are all small batch bourbons, and the blending is truly an art, trying to create an interesting and complex product that all possesses excellent taste. Trey feels this is a "different style" of bourbon which may not be for everyone, but one which makes him proud.

Obtaining sufficient supply is always a challenge, especially as he seeks out quality. And one of their biggest challenges is competing with the larger bourbon producers, though Trey is very happy that their company has been growing by about 30% each year. They produce about 25,000 six-bottle cases annually. Their bourbon originally caught on with local bartenders, and they spread the word to others about it. Currently, Jefferson's Bourbon sells well in the Boston area so my local readers should be able to find it at the better liquor stores.

I was fascinated by Trey's tale of an experiment they recently conducted in ocean-aged bourbon! Trey celebrated his 40th birthday on a friend's ship in Costa Rica. The friend also has a small dishing boat and Trey got the idea to store five barrels of bourbon on his friend's boat while it traveled the sea. The barrels were strapped to the boat and spent 3.5 years at sea, baking in the heat as well as moving around frequently. Allegedly, the ship lost two barrels when their steel bands popped, though there is always the possibility that the men aboard the boat decided to taste test the bourbon themselves.

When Trey examined the bourbon, it found that it had caramelized and had an extremely dark color, looking almost black in a photo. Trey stated that it had a briny taste and was very complex for its age. He is planning to release some of it commercially so it will be quite intriguing to get a chance to taste the final product. Based on this experiment, Trey is next going to transport some bourbon barrels down the Ohio River, as old distilleries once did.

When you look at a bottle of Jefferson's Bourbon, what do you see? Look just at the bottle, its shape and form, not the liquid inside. Does it appear familiar? Trey's intent was to create a bottle that would resemble a  perfume bottle so that it would appeal to women! A very interesting marketing device.

Jefferson's Bourbon has three main products: Jefferson's, Jefferson's Reserve and Jefferson's Presidential Select. All three are probably best when drank neat or on the rocks, though of course you could use them in a cocktail if you so desired. They also produce a Straight Rye Whiskey which works very well in cocktails.

I greatly enjoyed the Jefferson’s Reserve, which I found to be smooth, elegant, subtle, and complex with a compelling melange of flavors. Each sip will bring to mind a new flavor, from caramel to honey, from butterscotch to figs, and much more. This is definitely a bourbon to savor on its own, rather than lose any of its complexity in a cocktail. Trey has created a superb bourbon which you need to seek out.

It was a pleasure to chat with Trey and Chet, and I wish them much luck with Jefferson's Bourbon. They are blending an exciting product, worthy of your attention, and I look forward to what they will develop in the future.