Sips & Nibbles: Thanksgiving Edition

I'm offering a special Thanksgiving edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events. Today, you'll find some restaurant options for Thanksgiving if you just don't feel like cooking this year. **********************************************************
1) It’s said that the first Thanksgiving featured shellfish and fish, so join Legal Sea Foods for a traditional Thanksgiving or opt instead for their special turkey dinner. Legal Sea Foods will serve turkey breast with sausage stuffing, mashed potatoes, butternut squash, gravy and cranberry sauce ($24.95 per person and $8.95 for children 12 and under). Come celebrate the holiday with your family and leave the cooking to Legals.

Reservations are recommended and private dining rooms must be reserved in advance. Available at most locations of Legal Sea Foods.

2) Celebrate Thanksgiving, on Thursday, November 22, from 1pm-6pm, at Chopps American Bar and Grill with a Specially Prepared Fall Feast. The full Dinner Menu will also be available.

Thanksgiving Day Chef's Tasting Menu
Appetizers
--Roasted Beet Salad (Goat Cheese Croquette, Tarragon, Frisee, Coriander Vinaigrette)
--Curried Parsnip Bisque (Mint Créme Fraiche)
Entrees
--Traditional Turkey Dinner (Heirloom Baby Carrot, Brussels Sprouts, Whipped Potato, Corn Bread Stuffing, Cranberry-Fig Sauce, Traditional Gravy)
--Butternut Squash Agnolotti (Trumpet Mushrooms, Leeks, Macomber Turnips, Cider, Butter)
Dessert
--Pumpkin Bread Pudding (Molasses Whipped Cream, Vanilla Gelato)

Cost: $45 per person
To make reservations, please call 781-221-6643

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Bodega Canal now offers taco lovers all-you-can-eat tacos every Monday night from 4:30 to close. For only $9 per person, guests can choose between either Beef or Chicken hard shell tacos. All tacos will be served with traditional accompaniments- pico de gallo, lettuce, and cheese. Guacamole will be available for an additional charge.

 To make reservations, please contact (617) 833-4885

2) Top Chef Alums Carl Dooley and Karen Akunowicz may have been competitors on Top Chef Season 13, but in real life they are fast friends with a deep respect for one another. “Top Chef is as stressful, competitive and isolating as you can imagine” according to Dooley. “But with that isolation of no phones, no computers, no contact with the outside world as we knew it, came the chance to forge amazing friendships with people like Karen. She is fantastic – as a chef and as a friend. I know her new restaurant will be, too”

Dooley is welcoming Akunowicz to his restaurant, The Table At Season To Taste, on Wednesday, November 14, from 5:30pm-10pm, for a five course tasting menu previewing her new restaurant and enoteca, Fox & the Knife, opening soon in South Boston.

Cost: $98 per person, optional wine pairing $55 / including tax and hospitality
For Reservations, please call 617-871-9468

3) Matadora, a Spanish restaurant located in the Hilton Boston/Woburn, is celebrating their 1st Anniversary with a special dinner on Thursday, November 15th, at 6:30pm. Besides the Cocktail Reception and Seated Dinner, there will be live music, a Flamenco dance floor show, and a cash bar.

Cocktail Reception
Cava & Chef’s selection of Spanish meats, cheeses, olives and nuts
Seated Dinner (served family style)
Flaming Chorizo
Shrimp Toast
Shishito Peppers
Paella
Dessert
Spiced Almond Cake with Quince Jam and Orange Glaze

Cost: $75/person (includes tax & gratuity)
You can purchase tickets on Eventbrite.

4) Pastry Chef Amanda Perreault and her team at The Southfield Store crank out scratch baked goods for The Store, plated desserts for the Store’s sister property The Old Inn On The Green, and countless orders for catered events and special occasions. All year-round, The Southfield Store sells cakes and cookies, tortes and tarts, cheesecakes and croissants, puddings, pies and breakfast pastries, plus quiches and house made gelato and granola.

As the holidays approach, Perreault and her “elves” go into overdrive, turning The Southfield Store  into the region’s most surprising (and hidden) destination for sweet treats to give or to hoard.

Almond and Cashew Brittles
Peanut butter cups and peanut butter ganache kisses
Peppermint Bark
Bouche de Noel
Pecan Buttercrunch
Gingerbread People and other unique holiday cookies
International breads such as stollen, babka, and panettone
Seasonal pies

Full Thanksgiving dinners can also be ordered from this year. Ordering early for the holidays is highly recommended. Please call 413-229-5050.

And here is a recipe for Nana’s Apple Cake
Courtesy of Amanda Perreault, The Southfield Store

Ingredients
4 medium apples, peeled, cored and sliced into ¼” crescents
6 large eggs
3 cups sugar
1 ½ cups canola oil
1 TB. vanilla extract
2 cups flour
1 TB. plus 1 tsp. baking powder
2 TB. cinnamon
1 tsp. salt

Directions:
Butter a 13” X 9” baking pan. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In a small bowl, whisk together eggs, sugar, oil and vanilla. In a larger bowl, sift the dry ingredients and whisk to blend. Pour egg mixture over dry mixture and mix well. Add the apples and stir to coat the fruit with the batter. Spread into prepared pan and bake for 35-45 minutes (test center with a toothpick). Cool to room temperature before slicing.

5) Executive Chef Sean Dutson and the entire team at Rebel’s Guild invite guests to experience a lavish meal specially paired with Glenlivet Whisky on Tuesday, November 13th, from 6pm-9pm

From the wise words of Mark Twain, “Too much of anything is bad, but too much whiskey is barely enough”.

The full Glenlivet Whisky Dinner is as Follows:
Cocktail Reception
Applewood Smoked Bacon Deviled Eggs
Artichoke and Boursin Fritter
Pulled Pork & Cornbread Shooter
Glenlivet Founders Cocktail
Plated Dinner
--Apple & Butternut Bisque (Crème Fraiche, Spiced Pecan Dust)
Glenlivet 12 Year
--Confit Poutine (Pulled Duck, Sweet Potato Wedges, Cranberries, Sage Gravy and Cheese Curd)
Glenlivet 15 Year
--Pork Belly & Sea Scallops (Sugar Pumpkin Risotto, Caramelized Brussels Sprouts & Wild Blueberry Compote)
Glenlivet 18 Year
--Cinnamon & Apple Bread Pudding (Vanilla Ice Cream)

Tickets cost $75.00 and are available via eventbrite. All attendees must be 21+ with a valid ID.

6) November marks Diabetes Awareness Month and Kendall Square’s Sumiao Hunan Kitchen has teamed up with Joslin Diabetes Center’s Asian American Diabetes Initiative (AADI) to help bring attention to the impact of diabetes on millions of Asian Americans. All month, the team at Sumiao will be featuring a special menu with a collection of delicious, diabetes-friendly dishes, hand-selected by a certified Joslin nutritionist; additionally, the restaurant will be donating 10% of proceeds from its diabetes-friendly brown and black rice sales during the month of November to the AADI.

Standout Hunanese-style selections will include Spicy Crunchy Cucumber with sesame chili oil sauce ($8); Yellow River Fish swai filet, white beech mushroom, pickled cabbage and banana pepper ($26); Pan-Seared Egg Tofu with Japanese egg tofu, shrimp, peas and carrots ($18); Steamed Egg Tofu with egg topped with spicy minced pork ($15); Beef with Broccoli with carrot, garlic and kung pao sauce ($18); and, Steamed Whole Tilapia caught daily with choice of two toppings: duojiao (spicy) or ginger-scallion (non-spicy) ($36). In total, Sumiao Hunan Kitchen will offer 20 diabetes-friendly options.

One in two Asian Americans have diabetes or pre-diabetes, despite having a lower average body mass index than the overall population of Americans. Originally from Hunan, China, Sumiao Chen has followed the diabetes epidemic closely through her experience as a scientist and former doctor, sparking a passion for raising awareness about the issue and promoting health conscious menu choices at her restaurant.

Joslin makes no guarantee that these items will be available at time of visit. Joslin does not endorse products or services, including those of this restaurant.

7) Valerie Rochon, President, The Chamber Collaborative of Greater Portsmouth and Mayor Jack Blalock unveiled the details for the 10th Anniversary of Restaurant Week Portsmouth & The Seacoast.  With more than 40 restaurants participating and 75,000+ guests expected to travel to Portsmouth and local Seacoast towns during Restaurant Week, November 8-17, the city is gearing up for a successful fall season. Located one hour north of Boston and one hour south of Portland, Maine, Portsmouth is an easy drive from all points New England. Known for its historic sites, architecture, festivals and coastal charm, Portsmouth attracts talented and ambitious chefs and restaurateurs who are creating a one-of-a-kind New England culinary destination.

“We are grateful and thrilled that several restaurants who helped launch the Chamber’s first Restaurant Week Portsmouth & The Seacoast in 2008 are still cooking up a storm and participating in this program ten years later. What began as a program to help stimulate the local economy has turned into a program embraced by the restaurant community to say ‘Thank you’ to our residents, businesses and visitors. It truly sets us apart from other cities across the country,” shared Rochon.

Mayor Jack Blalock, himself a restaurant owner in Portsmouth, recognizes the effort and creativity that the chefs put into creating generous and memorable menus. “From the rising stars in our kitchens to the stalwarts who helped create the Chamber’s Restaurant Week ten years ago – everyone is making a tremendous commitment and impact for the overall success of Portsmouth and the Seacoast community.”

Restaurants that participated in the 1st Restaurant Week, and which are still participating, include: Agave Mexican Bistro, Black Trumpet Bistro, The Dolphin Striker, Jumpin’ Jay’s Fish Café, Library Restaurant--A Steak House, The Portsmouth Brewery, Portsmouth Gas Light Company, and Ristorante Massimo.

The Douro River Region: Beauty & Thriving Amidst Adversity

"Few plants can live, much less thrive, in the physical conditions of the Douro valley, where chunks of rock are found instead of soil, where rainfall is relatively low and evaporation diminishes the amount available for plants, and where slopes are steep."
--Landscapes Of Bacchus: The Vine in Portugal by Dan Stanislawski

Such stunning scenery. The beauty and allure of the the Douro River region was astounding, especially in October when the leaves had turned, providing such gorgeous colors to the landscape. My several days spent in the Douro region were memorable, and my pictures don't do adequate justice to everything I witnessed, from the steep vineyards to the majestic mountains, from the the myriad colors to the fine architecture. What I witnessed was a testament to the tenacity and passion of the Douro farmers, growing grapes in some of the toughest vineyards in the world. It also is a testament to the marvels of Port Wine, which sees its origin in this fascinating region.

The Douro River ("River of Gold"), which originates in Spain (where it is known as the Duero River), extends for about 557 miles, passing through Portugal and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean.  Only about 124 miles of the Douro winds through Portugal, now broken up by a series of hydroelectric dams.

The Douro River region was first demarcated in 1756 when the Marques de Pombal, the Prime Minister of Portugal, commissioned a geographical study of the region’s vineyards. The demarcation covered about 100,000 acres and included a detailed classification of the Baixa Corgo and Cima Corgo subzones. Many people claim that this was the first demarcated wine region, though there are others who claim that the Tokaj region in Hungary was the first, with a Royal Charter in 1737. Whatever the truth, the Douro River is certainly one of the oldest demarcated regions, indicative of its importance.

Over the subsequent years, the demarcated region of the Douro has been modified and expanded, and it now ranges from the parish of Barqueiros to the village of Barca d’Alva. It currently comprises about 250,000 hectares, though only about 18% (45,000 hectares) of that land is covered with vineyards. Olive trees are also common in this region and we enjoyed some fine olive oils at various spots.

The Douro River was once much wilder and nearly impassable at points due to its raging rapids, but engineering endeavors worked to transform the river into a more navigable waterway. It was also beneficial that by the end of the 19th century, a railway had been constructed that extended to the Spanish border, making travel much easier and quicker. Now, with a series of hydroelectric dams, the river is more like a series of placid lakes, making river transport relatively easy.

"When the demerits of this area are balanced against its advantages, it is difficult to understand how men ever came to consider it suitable for cultivation."
--Landscapes Of Bacchus: The Vine in Portugal by Dan Stanislawski

On one day of our trip, we took a 5km walk, led by Portugal Green Walks, through the vineyards of Quinta da Roêda, which are owned by Croft Port. Portugal Green Walks conducts numerous walking tours of northern Portugal and this is an excellent way to get to know the Douro region. I gained a deeper understanding of the issues involving the steep, terraced vineyards and the schist soils. It is clearly arduous work, and you need to be sure footed with good footwear while wandering through the vineyards. Surrounded by incredible beauty, it was such a pleasure to leisurely walk past the vines, on a fine autumn day

The Douro region is surrounded on three sides by high mountains and the upper reaches of the region are largely protected from the Atlantic, earning it the provincial name of Trás-os-Montes ("behind the mountains"). Because of the mountainous terrain of the Douro, the vineyards are generally planted on slopes, commonly steep, and about 90% have a gradient in excess of 30%, which can even range up to a 70% gradient.

The soil in the Douro region tends to be comprised of rocky schist, which is high in acid, rich in nutrients and possesses excellent water retention. The term "schist" derives from the Greek term "schistos" which means "divided," as the schist has a foliated structure and will split in thin irregular plates. At times in the past, schist had to be dynamited to plant vineyards although bulldozers are now used more commonly. However, dynamite is still occasionally used even today.

This is a cork tree in one of the vineyards and the number on it indicates the year it was last harvested. The number "3" refers to the year 2013, and it won't be harvested again for nine years, so not until 2022.

The Douro region has three primary subzones, including: Baixo Corgo, in the west & centered on the town of Regua; Cima Corgo, centered on Pinhao; and the Douro Superior, in the east. The Baixo Corgo sub zone, which produces about 45% of all the Douro wines, tends to have cooler and wetter weather and the wines are lighter. The Cima Corgo sub zone, which produces about 40% of all Douro wines, is a warmer region and is the location of some of the best vineyards in the Douro. The Douro Superior sub zone, which produces about 15% of all the Douro wines, has the hottest and driest weather,

Since 1933, every vineyard in the Douro has been graded, from A to F, based on a point system, with a maximum of 1680 points, that considers twelve different factors, including altitude, soil type, grape variety, slope, angle toward the sun, age of the vines, upkeep & maintenance, and more.

In general, the Douro region has harsh winters and hot summers with temperatures in the winter sometimes below freezing and summer temperatures that can reach 100 degrees Fahrenheit. It is because of those hot summer temperatures that Port wines were sent down the Douro River to Vila Nova de Gaia, where the wine could mature in cooler temperatures. The region also usually receives about twenty inches of rain annually.

At one point during our Portugal trip, while we were in Pinhão, we took a boat tour of the Douro with Magnifico Douro. 

We traveled aboard a barcos rabelo-style boat, the type of flat-bottomed vessels that once traveled up and down the Douro River, transporting passengers and cargo.

Here are a number of my traveling companions, all also from the Boston+ area.

It was a sunny day so the views were amazing, providing a more unique view of the landscape.

It was also quite tranquil and we saw only a few other vessels on the water.

If you visit the Douro, you should take one of the boat cruises to get a different view of the land.

At another point, we also rode on a train on the Linha do Douro, to Peso da Régua. The train line follows the course of the Douro River so you have plenty of great scenery visible from the train windows.

You can explore the Douro River region by so many different methods, including car, boat, train or by foot. No matter what method you use, you'll be stunned by the beauty of the region and awed by the steep-terraced vineyards wondering why any sane farmer who choose to plant in such a difficult area. I enjoyed such an amazing trip to the Douro and am sure that any wine lover would be equally as impressed.

“Port Wine is a great wine because it is the product of long experimentation, meticulous attention to details, and strict controls; and no Portuguese vineyardist would doubt that the environment of the Douro valley, its place of origin, has played an important part in its ultimate character.”
--Landscapes Of Bacchus: The Vine in Portugal by Dan Stanislawski

Rant: Support NECAT & Transform Lives

For at least the last few years, including very recently, numerous sources have noted that Boston has a shortage of cooks and restaurant help. This shortage has contributed to the closing of at least a few restaurants, and has caused difficulties at many more. Thus, efforts to add to the number of cooks will benefit the entire Boston restaurant industry. As such, I throw my wholehearted support behind NECAT (New England Center for Arts & Technology) and I strongly urge all of my readers to give it their support as well. Not only do they train cooks, but they also transform lives.

Recently, NECAT threw a 5th Anniversary party, catered by their students, to celebrate their achievements. Two years ago, I first wrote about NECAT, in my article NECAT: A Culinary School Worthy Of Special Attention, and you should read that article to learn more about the basics and mission of NECAT. In short, NECAT provides culinary training to students who have had trouble or disadvantages in their past, from ex-convicts to high-school dropouts, from ex-drug addicts to the chronically underemployed. NECAT helps these "students forge a new future, providing them an opportunity for a fulfilling and rewarding career."

As I wrote before, "NECAT is helping to show their students that they don't need to be defined by their past, that they can move forward despite what they might have once done. They are helped to believe in themselves so that they can change their lives for the better. They might have challenged backgrounds but that isn't sufficient to hold them back, if they are willing to work toward a better future. These are such worthy goals, creating a better community for all of us." A powerful mission that has accomplished much in only five years.

During the past five years, NECAT has graduated 333 students, with 230 currently employed as cooks. In addition, NECAT has expanded, adding a culinary program in Everett, allowing them to train even more students than possible just at their Boston location. With more financial support, NECAT could continue to expand, and help transform even more lives, adding to the number of cooks in the Boston area. Two worthy goals, accomplished through a singular training program.

I've attended a few of the NECAT events during the last couple years, and the stories of achievement from the graduates have been powerful and inspirational. You can feel their passion, their desire to participate in the restaurant industry. And you can see how it has positively affected their attitudes and lives. NECAT works and needs more support. In addition, I've tasted numerous dishes that the students have created, including what is in these photos from the 5th anniversary celebration, and they have produced plenty of delicious foods.

Restaurant owners and managers, I strongly encourage you to consider hiring NECAT graduates to fill openings in your kitchens. You not only will be hiring new employees, but you will be helping these graduates start new lives. If you are interested in exploring the possibilities, please contact NECAT.

For my other readers, I encourage you to learn more about NECAT and give them your support. Take a tour of the facility, have lunch there, or attend a future event. If you can donate money to NECAT, please do so. And importantly, help spread the word about NECAT. It needs to be much better known and strongly depends on word of mouth to do so. If you know anyone who would benefit from attending NECAT's culinary program, please tell them about the opportunities.

As we enter the holiday season, when charity becomes more prevalent, please consider supporting NECAT.

Quinta do Vallado: A Douro Winery With A Rich History

When I received my initial itinerary for my journey to Portugal, I was pleased to see that we were going to visit Quinta do Vallado, a Douro winery that I knew something about. Back in 2014, I tasted and reviewed their 2011 Quinta do Vallado Reserve and I wrote: "Once you sample it, you'll discover a complex and enticing melange of flavors, including ripe plum, black cherry, fig, dark spices, mineral notes and hints of earthiness. Silky tannins, a long and pleasing finish, and excellent structure & balance. It is a hedonistic, delicious wine which will make you crave another glass." I was excited to taste more of their wines, to experience what else the winery had to offer.

Some of the buildings on the estate of Quinta do Vallado were established in 1716 while the Quinta itself was established in the 19th century by Dona Antónia Adelaide Ferreira (1811-1896), one of the most influential women in the history of Port wine. Her story is fascinating and maybe I'll write an article about her in the near future. Upon her death, she owned almost 30 Douro vineyards, the ownership which passed down to her family. In 1987, most of the Quintas were sold to Sogrape, except for Quinta do Vallado, which remained with the descendants of Dona Ferreira.

Quinta do Vallado is located on the banks of the Corgo River, a tributary of the Douro. The estate consists of about 70 hectares of vineyards, including 20 hectares of old vines, some more than 90 years old. The vineyards grow about 40 varieties of grapes, and very few international grapes. In 2009, they acquired a 30 hectare organic vineyard, located about 30 kilometers from the Spanish border, and hope to release their first organic wine next year. In addition, they purchase some grapes to fill their needs.

For many years, they sold off their grapes but in 1997 they produced their first wine, making about 30,000 bottles that year. Currently, production is about 1 million bottles (roughly 83,000 cases), divided into 70% Red wine, 10% White wine, the rest being Port and Rosé wines (with future plans to make Aged White Port). About 1/3 of their production is the Vallado Red. They export approximately 50% of their production, to over 40 countries.

Their cellars have about 900 French oak barrels, including 225 liter for reds and 500 liters for whites, though they age very few whites in oak. They have maybe 4-5 American oak barrels, for maturation of their Tinta Roriz, and also some Portuguese oak for the aging of their Ports, some of the barrels up to 16,000 liters.

In 2009, the Quinta built a new, state-of-the-art winery

This is one of their lagares, where the grapes are trod by foot. They do this for only a tiny portion of their production, primarily for Vintage Port.

After a tour of the winery, we sat down to taste several of their wines, including four still wines and one Port. And after the tasting, I bought a bottle of their 30 Year-Old Tawny Port.

We began the tasting with the 2017 Vallado Douro White (6.60 Euros), a blend of five indigenous grapes including Rabigato, Códega, Viosinho, Gouveio and Arinto. With a pleasing, fruity aroma, the wine was tasty and easy drinking, with citrus and melon notes. A delightful summer wine, or a wine to pair with seafood.

The 2016 Vallado Douro Red (7.15 Euros), their biggest selling wine, is a blend of 25% Touriga Franca,  25% Touriga Nacional, 25% Tinta Roriz, 5% Sousão and 25% mixed old vineyards. About 70% of the wine is aged for 16 months in stainless steel tanks while 30% is aged in 225 liters used French Oak barriques for 16 months. With a nose of red fruit and spice, this was also an easy drinking and delicious wine, with prominent cherry and raspberry notes and spice accents. Low tannins, good acidity and a pleasing finish. A wine for everyday drinking, which would pair well from burgers to pizza.

The 2016 Vallado Touriga Nacional (19 Euros) is made from 100% Touriga Nacional and was aged for about 18 months in French oak barrels, 40% new. Violets were prominent on the nose, and the complex palate presented deep flavors of ripe plum and black cherry with a spicy backbone and silky tannins. An elegant and delicious wine with a lengthy, satisfying finish.

The 2016 Vallado Reserva Field Blend (24.70 Euros) is a field blend of 45 different grapes, all old vines over 100 years old. The wine was aged for about 18 months in French oak barrels, 50% new, and only 4000 bottles were produced. Though it wasn't as good as the 2011 Vintage, which was a great year, it still was a stunning wine, from its alluring aroma to its complex and seductive taste. It is a well-balanced wine, silky smooth and impressive. A great choice and highly recommended.

The Vallado 10 Year Old Tawny Port (16 Euros), made primarily from brandy sourced in Portugal, is a nice choice this autumn and winter to warm your soul. The well-integrated and well-balanced Port is sweet, but with plenty of acidity, and has a complex and appealing taste of vanilla, caramel, figs, dates, almonds, and a hint of red fruit. For the price, this is an excellent value Port, one of the best 10 Year Old Tawnies I've tasted. Highly recommended.

We also enjoyed lunch on the property, as well as getting a look at their hotel, which was opened in 2005. They currently have five rooms available in their Manor House, a refurbished building that dates back to 1733, and right rooms available in their new hotel wing. We checked out one of the rooms in the new wing and it was beautiful and spacious, with a stunning balcony view. And with some prices under 200 Euros a night, it is definitely affordable for such a compelling boutique hotel. There are plenty of amenities available, and they can arrange a variety of tours as well.

When visiting the Douro region, consider staying at Quinta do Vallado,  a quality winery in a beautiful setting, which will be sure to elevate your visit to Portugal.