Tuesday, August 17, 2021

The First August Moon Festivals in Chinatown

In 1885, Boston’s Chinatown feted their first public celebration of Chinese New Year, their most important holiday. Curiously though, their second most important holiday, the August Moon Festival, wasn’t celebrated publicly in Chinatown until 1970. It’s unclear why it took so long for this festival to be celebrated but it would continue to be celebrated nearly every year afterwards, except during the pandemic.

The history of the August Moon Festival, also known as the Mid-Autumn Festival, the Moon Festival, and the Mooncake Festival, extends back a few thousand years. It has multiple inspirations, from a celebration of the harvest to an honoring of the moon. There are also multiple traditions associated with their holiday, including the lion dance, the lighting of lanterns, and mooncakes. This year, there was a celebration in Chinatown on Sunday, August 8, and another celebration in Quincy, on Sunday, August 15,  

Let's delve into the history of the first five years of public celebrations of the August Moon Festival in Chinatown. 

The first August Moon Festival was celebrated in Chinatown on Sunday, August 29, 1970. The event was sponsored by the Chinese community and Boston’s Summerthing program. It was a day-long event, held from 11am-11:30pm, and included about 21 different activities.

The Boston Herald, August 31, 1970, stated “The August Moon Festival, in Chinese Chung Chiao Chieh, commemorates the harvest and is associated with scores of epics and legends.” The Boston Globe, August 31, 1970, also mentioned, “The traditional Chinese festival honors the moon—especially bright at this time of year—and takes advantage of the good weather.” The article continued, “The new Consulate General of the Republic of China reminded the crowd that the original meaning of the festival was ‘struggle for freedom,’ when it was a celebration of the overthrow of the Mongolian dynasty 600 years ago.”

This article also noticed that “All of Chinatown and many other Bostonians turned out to celebrate the first annual August Moon Festival yesterday, People danced in the streets, feasted in the restaurants and watched festivities from doorways and windows.”

During the festival, a few different stages were set up in various parts of Chinatown, each offering different events. The stage on Beach Street, set up in front of the Cathay House at 70 Beach, showcased events including a demonstration of the Lion Dance by members of the Gung Ho Club, as well as a demonstration of gung-fu martial arts by the Bamboo Hut Club. There was also Chinese folk dancing by students from the Quong Kow Junior High School, as well as a chopstick folk dance by Elaine and Julia Shiang. In addition, there was an electronic music program, called ‘Rock: The Mass Way’ by members of the Boston Chinese Youth Association.

The Harrison Avenue stage included a fashion show of community-originated traditional and contemporary Chinese dress, a children’s lantern parade, and the release of 500 helium-filled balloons by the Chinatown Grievance Task Force. On this stage, Mayor Kevin White also presented the trophy for the winner of the afternoon volleyball tournament. The two teams in the volleyball tournament were the Restaurants and the Que Ting, although the name of the winning team wasn’t provided.

On Hudson Street, around 7pm, Mayor White also dedicated and lit the first of 85 pagoda-shaped street lamps, illuminating Chinatown. He was then presented a moon cake. The Boston Herald, August 31, 1970, noted, “Moon-cakes, made of golden pastry and shaped like porkpies, filled with sweet sugared beans, lotus seeds, nuts or ground meat, were given to visitors who included Mayor White, Sen. Edward M. Kennedy and Joseph Kennedy H.”

The stage at Hudson and Kneeland streets presented Chinese folk songs sung by the MIT Chinese Student Club and members of the Que Sing Music Club played traditional Chinese instruments. Additional events held in various other places in Chinatown included a zoo mobile (with sheep and goats), an earth mobile, a crafts mobile (where parents and children made Chinese lanterns and jewelry), and a block dance.

There was also a showing of the Chinese film Tiao Chin, a sword-swinging drama of ancient China with English subtitles. Plus, they set up a Teahouse of the August Moon, which served tea and mooncakes. In addition, a huge mural, designed by Don Heung, was painted on the side of a building at Beech and Hudson streets depicting a Chinese junk, symbolizing Chinatown, sailing on sweeping waves.

A special birthday celebration was also held during the festival at the China Pearl restaurant, where over 400 people gathered for the 100th birthday of Chin Ong Fung, who had lived and worked in Chinatown since 1897, having managed a laundry for about forty years. The celebrants enjoyed a fifteen-course feast.

The Boston Globe, August 31, 1970, mentioned the reason for his longevity, “To reach his age, he suggested that one should never get excited, but take things calmly—and second, when you eat, eat the best. If he could do it again, he would be a restaurant owner, he said.” What a great sentiment, to eat only the best. Mr. Chin wasn’t even the oldest person at his birthday celebration as his guest, Wong Ong Chew, had celebrated his 100th birthday the prior year.

The second August Moon Festival was held on Sunday, August 29, 1971, and the Boston Herald, August 30, 1971, mentioned, “Popping fire crackers chasing away evil spirits resounded in the blocked-off streets of Boston’s Chinatown yesterday as thousands of persons strolled through the second annual Festival of the August Moon.” The article also stated, that the event was presented by “...the August Moon Festival Committee and other Chinatown groups, along with Mayor White’s Office of Cultural Affairs/Summerthing,..”

The events included a lantern parade, sports events (including a volleyball tournament, basketball, and ping pong), a fashion show, a baby contest, some plywood mural painting, a pastry demonstration, Chinese film and folk dances, and an evening rock concert. There was also a traditional lion dance, and the newspaper reported, “But the event that won the hearts of the children was the dance of the ‘lion,’ done to the fast-paced beat of drums. Some children cried because they couldn’t see through the crowd; others cried when they did see the ferocious looking lion.”

The newspaper also asked a local Chinatown resident about the meaning of the festival. They stated, it “…has many interpretations, many meanings, many customs. But the meaning today is, Have a good time. We hope you will learn something about our culture.’”

In 1972, the local newspapers provided only brief coverage to the August Moon Festival, which was held on August 27. The Boston Herald, August 28, 1972, mentioned that “.., the event heralds the arrival of autumn and the harvest season—a time of plenty and good health and a time to rejoice for the local Chinese community.”

The Boston Globe, August 28, 1972, added, “On the 15th night of every moon on the Chinese lunar calendar, Hon I, sovereign of the sun, is reunited with his wife, Heng O, spirit of the moon.” Some of the activities at the festival included the traditional lion dance (by members of the Chinese Knights Association), a New England Chinese Martial Arts Association demonstration of self defense (with bare fists, lances and broadswords), a Zoomobile (which included an 8 foot python), and a group of five 9 year olds who performed the “Lions Strolling in the Garden in Twilight” dance.

There was much more coverage for the 1973 August Moon Festival which was held on Sunday, August 19. This might be, in part, because the crowds for the festival were said to be double from the previous year. The local newspapers provided some additional insight into the meaning behind the holiday. The Boston Herald, August 19, 1973, stated “According to many legends, the August Moon festival gives thanks for good harvest and good health.”

The Boston Globe, August 15, 1973, went into more detail about the legends behind the holiday.: “A curious bride swallows a charm given as a gift to her husband and then, overcome with guilt and remorse, flees to a distant place. Her husband, after a long search and many hardships, finds her, they reconcile and celebrate their reunion with a lavish gift. The gift is immortality, the bride is Heng O, the husband, Hou I, the distant land, the moon, and the feast, that of the August moon, ..." The article continued,  “According to the legend, after her arrival on the moon Heng O was dismayed to find that the celestial body offered a very limited menu—cinnamon and dew. Chilled and tired, she soon developed a racking cough and coughed up the charm which was transformed into a helpful rabbit who showed her how to vary her diet by preparing mooncakes of ground herbs.

For the festival, the streets of Chinatown were closed to traffic and the events include a lion dance, martial arts demonstrations, music, films, a pie-eating contest, calligraphy, a dance, chess demonstrations and the Zoological Society Zoomobile. Master Kwong Ti Fu and the Knights Club performed Kung Fu, with fist fights and battles with double-edged and butterfly swords. Dancers from the Quong Kow School performed while elders from the Kew Sing Music club played on traditional instruments.

The Boston Herald, August 19, 1973, noted, “A focal point of the day for refreshments will be a Teahouse of the August Moon, which will serve tea, coffee, and soft drinks, as well as mooncakes, small filled pastries which are a festival tradition.” The Boston Globe, August 15, 1973, wrote that, “Mooncakes prepared for present day August Moon Festivals are a bit more substantial. Golden brown pastries, they are shaped like a small pork pie and are filled with a mixture of sugared beans, ground lotus or sesame seeds and ducks’ eggs, nuts or meat.

As for the traditional lion dance, the Boston Herald, August 20, 1973, mentioned “The ‘moo see,’ or traditional lion dance, is a colorful part of the program,..” This year, members of the Chinese Athletic Association, took turns dressing as both ends of the lion, and this included 19 year-old Bobby Goon of Brighton. The newspaper also noted, “The lion comes to the festival to chase away all the old spirits and bring new spirits and good will for all the people.” In addition, “During the moo see, firecrackers are also thrown near the lion to help chase away the old spirits.

That year's Festival was also important as Mayor Kevin White broke ground for the new Pagoda Park, which ended a three year effort by Chinatown to secure a vacant lot under the expressway ramp for use as a playground. They hoped to complete and open the park by October, which would be surfaced for basketball, volleyball, swings, seesaws,  and more.

The fifth annual August Moon Festival was held on Sunday, August 11, 1974. The Boston Globe, August 4, 1974, reported that, “The August Moon Festival is a cooperative effort with the Mayor’s Office of Cultural Affairs and the festival’s executive committee is chaired by Fannie Kwan and composed of members of the community: the Chinatown Boys’ Club, the YMCA, the New England Martial Arts Assn., the Gung Ho Club and the Chinese Athletic Club Knights, the Northeastern and Boston University Chinese Foreign Students Club, and the Golden Age Center.” Much of the same events which were held in previous years were conducted once again, including the Teahouse of the August Moon, lion dances, martial arts demonstrations, and music by the Quong Kow and Kew Sings clubs. 

The pandemic may have dampened recent celebrations in Chinatown but in the near future, hopefully these great festivities will be held once again. 

Monday, August 16, 2021

Rant: Saving Local Farmers

Waygu beef, Mangalitsa pork, Quail. 

The pandemic has significantly hurt so many industries, including the U.S. farmer. The USDA published an article last month, America’s Farmers: Resilient Throughout the COVID Pandemic, which detailed some of the problems American farmers have faced in recent years, as well as during the pandemic. 

The article stated, "The COVID-19 pandemic not only triggered a new type of crisis for the farming sector, it also came at a tough time for U.S. farmers. For the past few years, global commodity production has outpaced demand in most years and prices have been falling." So, the farming industry was suffering from numerous problems before the pandemic, which then exacerbated all of those serious issues.

The article continued, "In addition, the immediate and drastic decline in food demand by restaurants and hotel customers isolated farmers and food processors from some of their biggest buyers, especially for meat, dairy, and specialty crops."As we all know, food prices have risen significantly, however, farmers haven't been receiving the additional monies, and actually have been receiving less. "In general, U.S. food prices have risen since January while prices received by U.S. producers have fallen." How can U.S. farmers survive?

The question that I've been pondering lately is: How do we help these farmers, especially the small family farms that can be found all across the country?

Fortunately, this is the perfect time to support local farmers by purchasing directly from them, at farmers markets, fairs, or directly at the farm. They need our support and patronage. Buy some freshly grown produce, meat from locally raised animals, or other items these farms produce, from honey to wine. There are so many excellent options, readily available to local consumers, if they are willing to take the effort to visit these places. 

For example, when I go to the Clam Box in Ipswich for lunch, I also often stop at 4-5 farms which are within a relatively short distance from the restaurant. Russell Orchards (with their wonderful cider donuts), Tendercrop Farm (with excellent grass-fed beef), Appleton Farms, Northern Lights Farm Stand (with a small menagerie of animals you can view), and Marini Farm. I make sure to have cooler bags in my trunk for these journeys. I help to support these farms and buy some delicious, fresh and locally produced food.

This week, I'll be traveling to Vermont to see some good friends, but during my trip, I've also made plans to visit at least a few unique farms, to learn their stories and give support to all that they have been doing. There will be a Waygu cattle farm, a Mangalitsa pig farm, and a Quail farm. I'm excited to visit these farms, and look forward to what I'll experience there. I'm sure I'll be writing about my visits, sharing my experiences with my readers.

In addition, I suspect I'll stop at other farms or farm stands I find, to see what they are producing. Vermont is such a fun state, and with its close proximity to Massachusetts, it's an easy drive. Plus, many in Massachusetts may not be cognizant that some of these Vermont farms will deliver to them, So, you can even support these Vermont farms without visiting them, although I'd recommend checking them out if you can. 

We can help save local farmers by patronizing them, by giving them our support and buying directly from them. It's easy, and who doesn't appreciate eating fresh, delicious local food. 

Friday, August 13, 2021

Sumiao Hunan Kitchen: World Baijiu Day & Dine Out Boston


"But in the West, Hunan cooking is often confused with Sichuan cooking. In China these two cuisines have very distinct characteristics. Whereas Sichuan is known for the hot and numbing sensation from dried chiles and Sichuan peppercorns, Hunan flavors are hot and sour from pickled chiles and pickled vegetables, made by letting brined fresh ingredients ferment naturally.
--Phoenix Claws and Jade Trees: Essential Techniques of Authentic Chinese Cooking by Kian Lam Kho 

Sumiao Hunan Kitchen, located in Cambridge, was founded in 2017, and from the beginning it has offered Baijiu and Baijiu cocktails on their drinks menu. For the last few years, it has also supported World Baijiu Day, which was celebrated this year on Monday, August 9. I dined there for lunch on Monday, to check out their new Peppermelon Baijiu Cocktail, and it also happened to be the start of Dine Out Boston, where Sumiao offers a special multi-course lunch for $25. 

Sumiao Hunan Kitchen is the creation of Sumiao Chen, a pharmacologist at Novartis as well as a restaurateur who was previously involved in opening the Feng-Shui restaurant chain. Sumiao, which is a Chinese word meaning “sketch", was born in Xiangtan, a city in Hunan which was also the birthplace of Mao Zedong, and she received culinary training at Le Cordon Bleu. The restaurant offers many traditional Hunan dishes, as well as some of their own innovative takes. 


I've been a fan of the restaurant since the beginning, and wish I dined there more often than I do. It has remained consistently good over the last four years, and my recent lunch was as excellent as usual. For Dine Out Boston, they offer Lunch ($25) and Dinner ($38). Lunch is available from 11am-3pm, and you get four choices:
  • Soup: Hot & Sour or Melted Gold
  • Appetizer: Sumiao Gyoza, Spicy Crunchy Cucumber, or Sumiao Shang Gan
  • Entree: Kung Pao Shrimp, Spicy Popcorn Chicken (3 spice levels), Spicy Cauliflower, or String Bean with Eggplant
  • Sweet Drink: Plum Juice, Herbal Tea, Chrysanthemum Tea, or Sweet Soy Milk
  • White rice is included, with an extra $2 charge for black rice

The new Peppermelon Baijiu cocktail is made with Baijiu, fresh Watermelon juice, black pepper honey syrup, and lemon juice. It has a mild sweetness, a rich watermelon flavor, a subtle peppery kick and the Baijiu comes out primarily on the finish. It's nicely balanced, perfect for the summer, and the components work very well with the Baijiu. Even if you claim to dislike Baijiu, this cocktail would appeal to you. And the peppered piece of watermelon on the rim of the glass was a nice treat once the cocktail was gone.

My lunch began with the Melted Gold soup, made from pumpkin and millet. It was hot and sweet, with a slightly thicker broth (although not too heavy) and the millet added a bit of texture. With a pleasing taste, it was a nice start to the meal. 

The Sumiao Gyoza, made from pork and accompanied by a vinegar sauce, ere plentiful and delicious, with a nice crispness to the coating and a meaty, well-seasoned filling. 

For my entree, I opted for the Spicy Popcorn Chicken, which comes in 3 levels of heat. I went for the medium-heat, and the chicken provided a numbing heat to the dish. The chicken had a crisp and light outer coating over the moist chicken meat. The dish too was fairly ample and delicious.

White rice comes with the lunch or for a $2 charge you can have some Black Rice, which is a bit nutty, almost a roasted flavor. 

The Chrysanthemum Tea comes in a can, and is a sweet drink, with floral notes.

Dine Out Boston continues next week so consider dining at Sumiao Hunan Kitchen, and try one of their Baijiu cocktails.

Thursday, August 12, 2021

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely and tips well.
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1) Chef/Owner Will Gilson and The Lexington team invites guests to sit back and relax at the new Picnic Grove at The Lexington. The Picnic Grove is officially open for frozen drinks and bites every Thursday through Saturday from 4 to 8 p.m.

The laidback hangout from Gilson’s team at the Lexington offers guests a tropical oasis in the middle of the urban landscape to refresh, relax, and enjoy. Served out of a colorful storage container-turned-bar, the tasty, summer menu features a variety of appetizers, items from the grill, frozen drinks, cocktails on draft, wine, and beer.

Signature food items include:
Black pepper-glazed chicken wings with sriracha aioli, scallion, and lime ($14)
Braised pork nachos with green chili, cotija, and grilled corn ($13)
Buffalo cauliflower with bleu cheese, celery, calabrian chili ($12)
Wagyu hot dog with kimchi and spicy mayo ($10)
Griddled burger (classic, impossible patty, or patty melt available)
Fish tacos with mango salsa, charred avocado, and cream ($13)

Signature drinks include:
Frozen Pina Colada with Plantation Barbados rum, coconut, and pineapple ($10)
Strawberry Daiquiri with Plantation Isle of Fiji rum, strawberry, and lime ($10)
Space Face with Lunazul Tequila, pineapple, lime, and mint ($11)
Crisp Linen Pants with Rittenhouse Rye, Mathilde Poire, Cinnamon, Pineapple ($12)

2) The Painted Burro, in Waltham, now has Bottomless Brunch, On Saturdays & Sundays, from 10:30am - 3pm, you can get a Bottomless Brunch, all you can eat for 90 minutes for only $21 per person. This includes all your Burro Brunch favorites like Huevos Rancheros, Chilaquiles, Morning Tacos, Tortas, Papas Bravas and more! 

Round out your meal with our a la carte additions like sides, desserts and cocktails including their "Hair of The Dog" iced coffee horchata with espresso liqueur and Rumchata. Make your reservation by calling The Painted Burro at 781-622-1500

Tuesday, August 10, 2021

Quinta Do Ameal: The Marvels of Vinho Verde & Loureriro

The Portuguese wine, Vinho Verde, is an excellent choice for the summer. It's commonly light and refreshing, crisp and full of bright citrus flavors, simple and easy to drink, with a touch of effervescence. In addition, it's often inexpensive, and you can even find tasty wines for under $10. 

However, many people don't realize the diversity of Vinho Verde, generally as they've had no experience with its other forms. Vinho Verde goes beyond the general flavor profile that I described above, and people should understand its other forms, as they are quite compelling as well. 

First, you should know that Vinho Verde is a DOC region in Portugal that was demarcated in 1908. There currently are nine subregions, including Amarante, Ave, Baião, Basto, Cávado, Lima, Monção e Melgaço, Paiva, and Sousa. The region encompasses approximately 21,000 hectares of vineyards (with 47 grape varieties), 18,000 winegrowers, and 600 bottlers. The potential for plenty of diversity is obviously present. 

Annually, the region produces about 80 million liters of wine, composed of 87% White wine, 7% Red and 6% Rosé wine. The region also includes Sparkling Wine (designated Espumante de Vinho Verde), Vinous Spirit and Grape Marc Spirit (designated Aguardente Vínica de Vinho Verde and Aguardente Bagaceira de Vinho Verde), and even Wine Vinegar (designated Vinagre de Vinho Verde). Of the white wines, not all fit into the common perception of Vinho Verde, some lacking effervescence and being produced to be more serious and complex wines. 

I recently participated in a media wine tasting and Zoom seminar with José Luis Moreira da Silva, commonly referred to as Zé Luis, who works for the Esporão group as the lead winemaker for Quinta dos Murças in the Douro region and Quinta do Ameal in the Vinho Verde region. I've previously written about Esporão and Quinta dos Murças, including reviewing a number of their wines, and have been impressed with their portfolio. They produce both inexpensive and higher-end wines, and excel at all price points. So, I was eager to taste wines from Quinta do Ameal, an estate they recently acquired in 2019.

Quinta do Ameal, located in Ponte de Lima, already possessed an excellent reputation, and its history extends back to 1710. The estate is best known for its Loureiro-based wines, which possess great acidity, minerality and can age well. The previous owner, Pedro Araújo, stayed on for a time to help Zé Luis get up to speed on the nature of the estate.

Zé Luis, a native of the Douro region, received his undergraduate degree in microbiology from the Universidade Católica Portuguesa, and then a master’s in oenology at the Escola Superior de Biotecnologia. He worked for about 11 years in the Douro before being hired by Esporão to work at the Quinta dos Murças. And when Esporão acquired Quinta do Ameal, they appointed Zé Luis to also be the lead winemaker for that estate as well. 

Quinta do Ameal, located in the Lima subregion of the Vinho Verde DOC (and next to the Lima River), occupies about 75-acres, about 35 of which are planted with the Loureiro grape. Of the various subregions of the DOC, they are generally differentiated by their temperature and rainfall amounts. The Lima subregion has two main influences, the Atlantic (about 30 km from the ocean), and Continental, and has lower temperatures and higher rainfalls than some other subregions. There is also a large gap in the day and night temperatures, and the Lima River helps to control humidity. 

The soil is primarily granitic, and is richer in clay than in other subregions. The winery is currently conducting extensive soil studies to determine how the grapes can best be grown. Zé Luis stated that the Lima subregion has the "best natural conditions for white wine in the Vinho Verde DOC." Quinta do Ameal was originally planted with only Loureiro as the wine maker wanted to make more serious Vinho Verde, which would have an aging potential of 15-20 years. 

The Loureiro grape is named after the louro, the Portuguese word for laurel, as the aroma of the grape is supposed to be suggestive of the laurel. The grape originated in the Lima River valley, so it was only natural that Quinta do Ameal chose to concentrate on this grape. Zé Luis loves the grape for its “tense, vibrant acidity, and incredible aromatic and aging potential.” 

Their least expensive wine is the 2020 Esporão Bico Amarelo ("Yellow Beak"), which retails for about $12, and about 28,000 cases are produced annually. It's a blend of about 40% Loureiro (from Quinta do Ameal) and 30% each of Alvarinho & Avesso (sourced from nearby growers). With an ABV of 11.5%, the wine remains on the lees for 3-4 months, and possesses no effervescence. On the palate, it's light, crisp and refreshing, with bright notes of lemon, citrus and floral elements. It's a simple wine, in a good way, something to just sip and enjoy, especially on a fine summer day. It would also pair very well with seafood or light dishes. This is the type of wine you should buy by the case so you always have a bottle on hand. 
 
Quinta do Ameal also produces three, estate-grown Loureiro wines, including the Ameal Loureiro, Ameal Solo Único and Ameal Escolha. I sampled the 2020 Amreal Loureiro ($18), produced from 100% Loureiro (from 20 year old vines) which sits on the lees in stainless steel for about 7 months and has a 11.5% ABV.  They winery doesn't put "Vinho Verde" on the front label as they wish to highlight the Loureiro grape, as well as avoiding consumer's usual expectations about Vinho Verde wines.  

I fell in love with this wine from the first sip. It possessed an intriguing nose, stone fruits and floral elements, and on the palate, its complexity and rich flavors burst through. It was crisp, fresh and dry, with a delightful melange of citrus, peach, floral notes, minerality and subtle herbal touches. This wine was well-balanced with a lengthy and delicious finish. This wine would also be perfect on its own, or paired with seafood or similar lighter dishes. 

I was told this wine could easily age for 15 years or more, and I'd love to see how it progresses over time. Zé Luis, also noted that it is similar to Riesling, as the two grape varieties have much in common, and I can understand the comparison. At $18, this is a very good value and I'd highly recommend buying this wine by the case as well. I'm sure it would impress your guests this summer. 

In the future,  Zé Luis wants to make a Sparkling Loureiro, and believes the region is perfect for such a wine.

The Esporão group has acquired another excellent estate with Quinta do Ameal, expanding their already fine portfolio. Quinta do Ameal may also help American consumers understand the marvels of the Vinho Verde DOC, and show them that it's not a monolithic region, but one with plenty of diversity.