Izumibashi Kurotonbo Kimoto Junmai Sake: A Cultivation Brewery

One of my favorite styles of Sake are the Kimoto/Yamahai, which can taste earthy with lots of umami and higher acidity. Because of their high level of acidity and umami, they can pair well with many different foods. 

Kimoto was the original method of production, basically where large oar-like poles, referred to as yamaoroshi, were used to stir the moto, the yeast starter. Natural lactic acid in the air would hopefully then help the fermentation process. For hundreds of years, this process was conducted in Sake breweries all across Japan. It wasn't until the beginning of the 20th century, did someone realize that this laborious process was completely unnecessary. 

In 1909, Professor Kinichiro Kagi, at the National Institute for Brewing Studies, realized that the use of the oar-like poles to mix the moto wasn’t necessary. The moto could be left on its own to complete the process, although a couple adjustments were required, including adding some more water and raising the temperature a bit. This was known as Yamahai, which is short hand for "yamaoroshi haishi moto," which roughly translates as "creating the moto without the use of oar-like poles."

Soon after the introduction of the Yamahai style, brewers realized they could simply add lactic acid to the yeast starter, which made the brewing process much shorter, as well as less risky. It is now the most dominant method of Sake production, although some breweries still make Sake using the Kimoto and Yamahai processes. 

The Izumibashi Kurotonbo "Black Dragonfly" Kimoto Junmai, with a 16% ABV, is produced by the Izumibashi Shuzo, which was established in the Kanagawa Prefecture in 1857. The name Izumibashi basically means "Izumi Bridge," referring to the Izumi River (which is used to irrigate their rice), and Hashi, their family name.

Izumibashi is a registered “Cultivation Brewery,” which means it grows, harvests and mills its own rice. This is a rarity as most Sake breweries purchase their Sake rice. Izumibashi promotes the belief that "Sake Starts with Rice." They also use "environmentally-friendly reduced-pesticide cultivation processes." They produce Junmai Sake, and half of their production is also in the Kimoto style. 

The "Black Dragonfly" Sake is made from Yamada Nishiki rice, the "king" of Sake rice, which has been polished down to 65%. Different sources indicate that its Acidity may range from 1.5-1.9, and that is SMV may be +10 or +12 (tending to mean it is likely very dry). This Sake was also aged for two years before its release. I found this to be a compelling, complex and absolutely delicious Sake. There was a dominant umami presence, along with intriguing and silky flavors of chestnuts, melon, and an almost chocolate accent. There were also hints of other, almost elusive flavors, that tantalized and pleased the palate. It possessed a fuller, creamier body (yet with balanced acidity) and a lengthy finish. Superb!   

This Sake would pair well with a wide variety of foods, including beef and other proteins, as well as fried foods. A mushroom pizza, or burger with mushrooms atop it, would also go along very well with this Sake. An Italian dish, with a red sauce and parmigiana cheese, would be a pleasant pairing too. Highly recommended!

Rant: Why Don't You Eat More Seafood?

Eat More Seafood! Eat More Seafood! Eat More Seafood!

Last Friday, I enjoyed a delicious lunch of Fried Lobster Tails at the Clam Box in Ipswich, as well as some Fried Native Clams and Fried Scallops. After lunch, I stopped at the Ipswich Shellfish Fish Market, a "pop-up" fish market that's only open on Fridays and Saturdays. This is a top-notch market for fresh and tasty seafood of all kinds, from mussels to crab meat, hake to cod loin, salmon to halibut, and much more. Prices are reasonable and service is excellent. I willingly drive about a half hour just to shop here for seafood. 

And after this weekend of seafood bliss, I've been thinking once again how the vast majority of people need to eat more seafood. As I've said repeatedly before, seafood consumption will significantly lessen your chances of dying from the leading cause of death in the U.S., heart disease. That's a powerful reason why you should consume more seafood and it's far from the only reason. 

According to the Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (CDC), the leading cause of death in the U.S. is heart disease, killing over 614,000 people each year. We all have had family and friends who have died from heart disease, and we should be doing what we can to reduce our own chances of acquiring heart disease. Do you want to die prematurely, leaving your loved ones without your presence? Do you want to die from heart disease when you could have adopted a small lifestyle change which might have saved you?

Seafood consumption is a significant key to reducing your chances of heart disease. Since the 1970s, over 20,000 research studies have been conducted on the health benefits of seafood and they have concluded that eating seafood twice a week can reduce your chance of dying from heart disease by about 36%. You won't find another single food that has been scientifically proven to reduce heart disease so much. Low seafood consumption is blamed for 84,000 deaths in the U.S. and 1.4 million globally. Besides helping to reduce heart disease, research has also been providing growing evidence of the health benefits to the brain and bones as well as against cancers and inflammatory diseases. Eating more seafood is such a simple change to your lifestyle and it can bring so many health benefits.

According to recommendations from the USDA, and many other bodies, Americans should consume at least 26 pounds of seafood each year, essentially meaning you should eat 4 ounces of seafood twice a week. The average American doesn't consume this much seafood. Per capita seafood consumption peaked in 2021 at 17 pounds (still 9 pounds short of the USDA recommendation), but has been on a slight decline since then. Currently, per capita consumption is only 16.5 pounds.

Besides the health reasons for eating more seafood, another compelling reason is the taste. Seafood is delicious! It's diverse in its flavor profiles so there should be something to cater to all preferences. Even if you dislike shellfish, then maybe you will enjoy a flaky white fish or a richer salmon. Fish can be prepared in a myriad of methods, from raw to baked, fried to grilled. Add it to soups or risottos, casseroles or sauces.

I know that one of the major obstacles to increases seafood consumption is price. People perceive that seafood is expensive, so they are less likely to buy it, opting for less expensive proteins. However, there are plenty of ways to get better value when purchasing seafood. First, buy seafood types, like mussels, which are very good values. Second, seek out local seafood as it often can be less expensive than imported seafood. Third, buy seasonal seafood as it is usually less expensive because it is more abundant in season. If you buy fish out of season, the price may have a premium added to it. Fourth, check out some of the less popular fish species, which may be cheaper because there is less demand for it. Try wild drum fish, snook, or cobia rather than tuna and cod. Fifth, consider eating smaller portions of fish, rather than you would a large steak or pork chop at one sitting. You only need 4 ounces of seafood, twice a week, and that smaller size works out to be a less expensive meal overall. 

Step up your game and eat more seafood. Try to consume seafood at least twice a week. What's stopping you from reaching your seafood consumption goal? 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Are you a mustard lover? Are you intrigued about the history of mustard and its myriad of styles and flavors? Would you like to learn much more about mustard?

Ken Zuckerman, the "Mustard Maestro," will be teaching a one-night course through Needham Community Education on Wednesday, October 16, from 7-9pm. Ken is the Head of Marketing for a local artisanal food distributor and a passionate devotee of all things vinegary & fermented. He's also on the board of the National Mustard Museum in Wisconsin, which sports a collection of over 6800 mustards, and which for the past 30+ years has conducted the Worldwide Mustard Competition featuring 500 entries facing off in 19 different categories.

The description of the class: "Mustard comes in so many colors and consistencies, not to mention flavors, that there is literally a mustard to please every taste and palette. Spend a fun, interesting and tasty evening sampling a wide variety of mustards, paired with complementary accompaniments, including cheeses and cured meats. Taste the difference between Pommery and Dijon, deli style vs. spicy brown, Bavarian vs. British, and coarse-grained vs. whole seed. You will also learn about the condiment’s history, how it is grown and processed, its nutritional attributes, its legacy in medicine as heralded by Hippocrates, and even mustard’s distinguished place in advertising and pop culture."

There is literally a mustard to please every taste and palette, even if you think mustard is not for you.

The cost of the class is $45 per person, and to register for the class, go HERE.

2) As I recently mentioned,  Chateau Musar, located in Lebanon, is a superb winery and I've long been a fan of their delicious and exciting wines. Local wine lovers now have another rare opportunity to experience an interesting range of their wines.  

On Monday, October 21, starting at 6:30pm, Abe & Louie’s will welcome Marc Hochar, third generation winemaker of Lebanon’s Chateau Musar, to the Back Bay. Chateau Musar, a winery located in Ghazir, was the first producer in Lebanon to achieve organic certification for its own vineyards in 2006. The Hochar family’s 220 hectares of Musar vineyards, hand-harvested by local Bedouins between August and October, hold a philosophy of respect for the environment managed with minimal interference.

Hochar will team up with Abe & Louie’s executive chef, Mark Mariano, in presenting a Mediterranean-inspired menu. During the reception, the 2022 Musar Jeune Rosé will be complemented by the chef’s selection of passed hors d’oeuvres. The first course is lamb carpaccio with harissa aioli, pickled beets and mint paired with a 2000 Chateau Musar Rouge. Moving to the entrée, oenophiles will sip two standouts from the collection – the 1997 Chateau Musar Rouge and a 2017 Chateau Musar Blanc – while indulging in “land and sea,” a petite filet and baked-stuffed lobster tail with creamed spinach and root vegetable pave. For dessert, there’s a chocolate olive oil cake with blackberry compote and house whipped mascarpone served alongside L’Arack de Musar, the vineyard’s aniseed-flavored spirit.

The cost for this wine dinner is $195 per person (which does not include tax or gratuity). Reservations required in advance via Tock. This event is reserved for ages 21+ with proper ID.

3) The Blue Ox, in Lynn, will be holding a French wine dinner on Wednesday, October 16, starting at 6pm. You will enjoy a multi-course meal by Chef Abel Lemus featuring featuring wines from the Jack Edwards Collection of Burgundy & Bordeaux. The Menu is as follows:

Reception
2022 Deux Roches Mâcon Villages Tradition
1st Course
2022 Jean-Yves Bretaudeau Muscadet L'Envol
Trio de Fruits de Mer, salmon tartare, oysters with citrus granita, chilled poached shrimp
2nd Course
2020 Combe Latour Cote du Rhone Rouge
Soupe à l’Oignon, caramelized onions, beef stock, cognac, peppercorns, gougères au gruyère
3rd Course
2021 Francois Villard Syrah L’appel de Sereines
Salade de Betteraves Rôties, roasted beets, baby arugula, goat cheese pearls, white asparagus, jambon de Bayonne, candied walnuts, red wine vinaigrette
Trou Normand
Calvados soaked raspberry sorbet
4th Course
2021 Julien Masquin Chateauneuf du Pape Memora
Pan Seared Filet of Sole, cognac and truffle creamed corn, citrus poached endive
Dessert
Crème Brûlée, berries, crème fraiche

Tickets are $135 per person (includes tax and gratuity), and can be Reserved HERE.

2019 Achados e Perdidos Codega do Larinho Vinho Branco: Excellent Wine Value!

As I've often said, some of the best wine values in the world can be found in Portugal. The 2019 Achados e Perdidos Codega do Larinho Vinho Branco, at $12, is an excellent example of such a value wine.   

Achados e Perdidos, which translates as "lost & found," was established by two friends, João Silva e Sousa and Francisco Baptista, who previously worked for some large wine companies. They decided to create some of their own wines from indigenous grapes, especially in the Douro region. In addition, they wanted the wines to be affordable, to be value wines. 

This white wine is made from 100% Côdega do Larinho, a rare, indigenous grape, primarily found in the Douro and Tras-os-Montes regions. It's a pale-skinned grape which is aromatic and floral, with notes of citrus and tropical fruit. It often has low acidity, so tends to be blended with higher acidity grapes. In the past, the grapes were often used in field blends for white Port. This is the first time I've ever had a 100% Côdega do Larinho. 

The grapes for this wine come from a 100-year old vineyard, which is organically farmed, on black schists soils with some granitic sands. During production, there's minimal skin contact and fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks, using native yeasts. The wine, with a 12% ABV, is then aged in the bottle for a year. 

Despite the grape commonly said to have low acidity, this wine proves exceptions exist. It actually possesses a crisp acidity, a nicely balanced wine, and is a sheer pleasure to drink. Notes of tart lemon, ripe peach and juicy pineapple with a backbone of minerality. A pleasing, lengthy finish. So much wine for such a low price. Where else can you find an organic wine with such a delicious taste at such a low price? 

This would be a nice seafood wine or simply enjoyed on its own. 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
******************************************************
1) Chateau Musar, located in Lebanon, is a superb winery and I've long been a fan of their delicious and exciting wines. A rare opportunity now arises for wine lovers to experience a interesting range of their wines, including multiple vintages of their iconic wines, accompanied by the fine cuisine of Chef Anthony Caturano at Prezza in the North End.

On Wednesday, October 23, starting at 6:30pm, Prezza and Fine Wine Specialist, Dan Michaud of Ruby Wines, invite guests to experience a unique seven-course wine dinner, with 10 offerings from Chateau Musar. It promises to be an epic evening for any wine lover.   

The evening kick-offs with a glass of 2022 Jeune Blanc, paired with Short Rib Hummus with spicy harissa, crispy shallots and warm pita bread. The second course will be Wood Grilled Octopus Skewers with smokey romesco sauce, salsa verde and chermoula, paired with glasses of the 2021 Leventine and 2020 Hochar Pere Et File. The third and fourth courses will be Wood Grilled Swordfish with tahini, lemon parsley and cous cous and Lobster, chickpeas, and harissa spiced tomato sauce, and accompanied by three vintages of the amazing Chateau Musar Blanc (which is made from two grapes indigenous to Lebanon), including 1997, 2012 and 2017.  

The fifth and sixth courses will be Braised Chicken Thigh with mushrooms and dried fig and Grilled Lamb Chop with roasted carrots, honey glaze, feta cheese, watercress and Lebanese rice. These will be paired with three vintages of the Chateau Musar Rouge, including 1997, 2012, and 2017. Finally, the last course will be Olive Oil Pound Cake with crème, anglaise, crème fraiche, strawberries and mint, paired with a glass of Arak Du Musar.

The seven-course dinner, with wine parings, costs $200 per person (which includes tax and gratuity). For tickets, email Brittany@prezza.com or call them at 617-227-1577.