Thursday, July 16, 2009

WBW#59: Saké Round Up

It appears that Saké is still intimidating to some as well as not as widely available as it should be. But, on a positive note, those who really give Saké a try seem to appreciate it and want to learn much more about it.

For Wine Blogging Wednesday #59, I chose to pay homage to Kushi no Kami, an ancient god of Saké. For this theme, participants had to conduct a kikishu (“Saké tasting”) by selecting any Saké and reviewing it. They could earn bonus points if they reviewed multiple Sakés of different styles or types, as well as if they paired Saké with food. My hope was that people would explore this unique beverage, and maybe gain a better appreciation for it.

Participation in this theme was not as extensive as I would have liked but those who did participate were quite enthusiastic. In fact, over 30 Sakés were reviewed and discussed which will thus give you lots of different recommendations. Plus, we had two special guests, both well known Saké experts, who joined in on the Saké fun.

Our first special guest was John Gauntner, a famed Saké authority and educator. The Japanese media refers to him as the "Saké Dendoushi" ("Saké Evangelist"), for his intense devotion to the promotion of Saké. John reviewed a Hakkaisan Tokubetsu Junmai-shu from Niigata. This is the first time this brewery has made this style of Saké. He said: "How'd it taste? Rich, young, tight, clean and balanced." It also had fruit flavors including: "Mostly berry-like stuff: cranberry, raspberry, a bit of apple too I guess." This is a Saké I would love to try.

Our second special guest was Beau Timken, a Saké authority and the owner of True Sake, the first all-Saké store in the U.S. He reviewed the Kikuhime Dai Ginjo, a very pricey Saké at $125 a bottle, but also quite an exceptional one. Beau may not remember his first love, but he certainly remembers his first taste of this wonderful drink. He provides his tasting notes from the first time he tasted this as well as his most current tasting note of this Saké. Does this not sound enticing? "With a gentle collection of cherry, sweet rice, melon, lavender, and powdered sugar aromas, this brew is a mouth-ride at its finest." This is a Saké for the true aficianado, for someone seeking the best of the best. For a Saké experience like that, I would pay its high cost.

As for the rest of the participants, many of them earned bonus points for tasting multiple Sakés as well as pairing them with food. Plus, some people earned additional bonus points for going beyond the usual, and adding even more cool information about Saké to their posts.

Victoria of Read Me, Drink Me earns bonus points for reviewing multiple Sakés as well as describing her trip to the Takara Brewery and museum in Berkeley, California. I have been there too so it was cool to resurrect that memory and Victoria does a great job of describing it. Victoria also reviews 8 different Sakés from Takara! She enjoyed some of them but not others. Her favorite was the Sho Chiku Bai Antique (though pricey at $60) which was "a surprisingly unique and complex selection" with "Earthy notes of moss and mushroom were complemented by sweet notes that went past the usual melon fruit to more floral and herbal ones."

Marcy of Come For the Wine earned bonus points for reviewing two different Sakés, as well as pairing one with food. She first tried the Kurosawa Kimoto Junmai, finding it "easy to drink with a light citrus fragrance and a smooth lemony juniper flavor." It paired well with Yakitori. Next, she tried the Onikoroshi Daiginjo which was "dry and delicate but more floral than fruity in fragrance." As an extra bonus, Marcy even mentioned a couple of her favorite Sakés, including Yumedono Junmai Daigino and Hasumago (one of her favorite “go –to” Saké. Marcy ends her review stating: "The world of Sake certainly deserves more research on my part. But if you're looking for something new to drink, give sake a try."

Rich of the WineLabelReview tried the Momokawa Pearl Saké, a Nigori Genshu. He shared the bottle with a group of friends. Rich said: "It was a salty taste with hints of coconut/pineapple (kind of like a salty Malibu Rum with milk)." Though this did not go over well with many of the people, Rich was glad to have tried something new. A Nigori is probably not the best choice to serve to those new to Saké. I am also not a big fan of Nigori, except sometimes as a dessert wine. But Rich did tell us about a previous Saké that he tried, a Junmai Daiginjo Jyudan Jikomi. He said: "It tasted like sweet flower petals, malty and lemony all at the same time." Rich hopes to visit Sakaya, the all-Saké store in NYC later this summer.

Dr. Debs of Good Wine Under $20 tried the Rihaku Wandering Poet Junmai Ginjo. She admits to knowing little about Saké so this theme was educational for her. She found this Saké to be "somewhat difficult to describe in terms of aromas and taste." Yet she liked it and felt "it represents good QPR." And she does want to learn more about Saké. So we have another convert.

Ryan of Oe-No-Phile tasted the SakeOne G, from a brewery in Oregon. Ryan gives a very detailed description of the appearance, nose and palate of this Saké. Part of his enticing description is "Flavors include orange, lemon, and vanilla. Austere and clean. Incredibly refreshing." He paired it with a wasabi and sesame crusted tuna steak and felt it was an excellent match. He comments that the "saké scrubs your palate clean, leaving a warm, but incredibly fresh feeling." He also recommends this Saké for newcomers.

Joel of Writer's Blanc reviewed the Sudo Honke ‘Sato No Homare’ Junmai Ginjo, which was one of the Sakés I actually reviewed. It is interesting to compare our thoughts on this Saké. Joel felt the "exceedingly smooth palate proffers white peach flesh, early golden plum flesh, creamed corn, and melon." He enjoyed this Saké and would like to try it with some nigiri sushi.

Erika of StrumErika is already a fan of Saké, stating it "can be so refreshing and beguiling." She tasted the Kanbara "Bride of the Fox" Junmai Ginjo and paired it will some spicy tuna hand rolls and spicy crab stick salad. She found the flavors and aroma "tough to pinpoint" but found "a lot of a sweet cereal aromas like a cream of wheat with layers of cucumber peel and a hint of orange zest." She also got a smell almost like "freshly folded laundry!" Though she enjoyed the Saké, it was pricey and she would like to find some less expensive, quality ones. She too wants to visit Sakaya, the all-Saké store in NYC.

Rob of Wine Post went with Leah, his girlfriend and a Saké lover, to Sake Hana, a Japanese restaurant/Sake Bar. They get bonus points for reviewing 6 Sakés! It is cool to see the different perceptions of Rob and Leah for each Saké, just as different people can view the same wine differently. Rob also relates a fascinating story about a group of Japanese patrons who brought in their own Saké to the restaurant. It appeared as if they brought in some rare and unusual bottles, and this seemed to intrigue Rob into wanting to get deeper into Saké.

Gwendolyn of Wine Predator also receives bonus points for reviewing multiple Sakés as well as pairing them with food. She began with two, the Sho Chiku Bai Nigori and Sho Chiku Bai Filtered which are from the Takara Brewery which Victoria previously discussed. Gwendolyn paired the two with some miso soup and sushi though she was not impressed with the Saké or food. Later, she also tasted the Shuzo Rihaku “Wandering Poet” and the organic Mumokawa Junmai Ginjo. The Mumokawa was her favorite and was organic "full of character, complexity, body, flavors of fuji apple, pungent, upfront, not subtle, and with a lingering finish." The Shuzo was her second favorite with "flavors of banana, sweeter than the organic ginjo, vague tropical fruits, pineapple." I also must give Gwendolyn extra points for including a couple poems by the Wandering Poet, Li Po, in her post.

For my own contribution, I reviewed two Sakés. I chose to review Sakés from breweries with long histories, including one that is over 860 years old! The Sakés included the Sato No Homare "Pride of the Village" Junmai Ginjo and Kuro Obi "Black Belt" Do-D0 Junmai Yamahai. The Sato No Homare was excellent, a complex and flavorful Saké which should appeal to everyone. The Kuro Obi was rustic, with an unusual taste, which should appeal to Saké lovers though it may not be something for newcomers.

Please check out the complete posts of all of the participants as they are fascinating. Thanks to everyone who participated in WBW#59. I hope everyone enjoyed the theme, maybe learned a thing or two, and hopefully there will be more converts to Saké.

And there was one more, last-minute participant. Tom of Ithacork reviewed two Sakés, earning bonus points for that. This included the Horin Gekkeikan Sake Junmai Daiginjo and Momokawa Pearl Junmai Ginjo Nigori Genshu Sake. Tom's favorite is definitely the Nigori. What really makes his post interesting is Tom's scientific approach to Saké, discussing matters such as phenylethanol and Aspergillus oryzae.

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

BiNA Osteria: BiNA on the Common

BiNA Osteria has now opened the only outdoor Café, BiNA on the Common, on Boston Common, offering Al Fresco Dining six days a week.

BiNA on the Common arrives on July 13. A European-style café located on Boston Common where Tremont meets Boylston, BiNA on the Common will be an interesting summertime spot to catch a quick breakfast on the go, or a grilled-to-order Panini to enjoy at one of the café’s 10 tables.

Breakfast items include Freshly Baked Bagels, Muffins, Brioche and Scones, as well as Yogurt, Granola, Fruit, Freshly Brewed Coffee and Iced Tea and Fresh-Squeezed Orange Juice. The $4 Breakfast Special includes a Fruit, Yogurt and Granola Parfait with a Cup of Coffee.

Premade Panini sandwiches include Prosciutto, Caprese, Roast Beef with Asiago and Veggie, as well as Hamburgers, Cheeseburgers, Grilled Portabella Burgers and Mixed Vegetables from the grill. Sides include Salads, a Cheese Plate, Homemade Pasta Salad with Pesto, Homemade Tortellini Salad and Pickles, with beverages such as Soda, Water, Coffee, Iced Coffee, Iced Tea and Orange Juice.

BiNA on the Common also offers fresh produce from BiNA alimentari, a European-style gourmet market in Downtown Crossing.

It will be open Monday to Friday, from 8m-6pm and Saturday, 10am-5pm.

BiNA Osteria
581 Washington St.
Boston, MA
Phone: (617) 956-0888

Burtons Grill: New Raw Bar

Burton’s Grill of North Andover, located at The Eaglewood Shops, is offering a special on Monday and Tuesday Nights that will be enjoyed by all seafood fans; The Burtons Grill Raw Bar.

Starting immediately, Executive Chef Denise Baron has brought together a wide variety of Oysters, Shrimp and Clams options to satisfy seafood lovers. craving’s satisfied. With dishes like the Oyster Rockefeller, Burtons will continue their reputation

The Raw Bar Menu is as follows:

---Shrimp Cocktail: 5 Jumbo Shrimp served with Cocktail Sauce ($12.95)
---Raw Oysters: Assorted Variety of Oysters ($2.00 each)
---Oyster Rockefeller: 6 Oysters baked in shell with Spinach and Sambuca Cream Sauce ($13.95)
---Clams Casino: 6 Assorted Clams ($11.95)
---Raw Clams ($1.75 each)

The Raw Bar menu will be available Monday through Saturday from 5pm-10pm. Take advantage of the summer weather and enjoy the new Raw Bar menu on Burtons’ outdoor patio – perfect for a casual luncheon or an evening of wining and dining!

For a night of cocktails and dining, Bar Manager Chris Little of Boston’s recommends the best spirit for this fare: “I would recommend a Vegetable Based Vodka or Tequila…If your looking for a smooth, higher end drink, I would recommend the Pepper Tequila”.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Myers & Chang: Dim Sum

Seeking a nontraditional brunch? Want to skip the eggs and pancakes and try some more innovative cuisine? If so, I have a great suggestion for you: Sunday Dim Sum at Myers & Chang.

Their Dim Sum is a bit nontraditional, but basically consists of over 25 small plate options, costing $3-6 each. It runs every Sunday from 11:30am-4pm. Their brunch is still relatively new so is subject to some changes as they endeavor to improve it through their experiences, as well as to add new dishes.

I have had a few delicious lunches, a couple I previously reviewed, at Myers & Chang. So I was intrigued about their Dim Sum and finally stopped by on a recent Sunday to check it out. The small plate concept really appeals to me and I think it is a great way to survey a cross-section of a restaurant's cuisine. Myers & Chang has succeeded, creating a delicious and interesting Dim Sum Brunch and which I fully recommend.

The menu currently is divided into Dim Sum (10 choices for $5 each), Stuffed Bao (6 choices for $4 each), Fried Dumplings (3 choices for $6 each), Noodles (2 choices for $3 each), Rice (2 choices for $5 each), and Sides (4 choices for $6 each). There may be a couple specials as well. There is plenty of variety on the menu, and it includes smaller portions of some of their regular menu items.

We began our meal with a bowl of complimentary shrimp crisps, of which I have talked before. See my previous review for more information about these crisps and other of the dishes below which are smaller versions of items on the regular menu.

The Sweet Potato and Chinese Sausage Fritter ($5) is nicely crispy on the outside, with a soft, moist interior with a definite sweet potato flavor and spicy sausage. A nice combination of flavors and textures.

Mama Chang's Pork Dumplings (3 for $6) were similar to what I have eaten here before, except they were more fried. My prior dumplings were just pan fried on one side. So these had a crispier exterior, which tasted very good too. As I said before, these are excellet dumplings, filled with plenty of meat and veggies.

The Wok-Roasted Lemongrass Mussels ($5) are a smaller portion of a regular menu item. And they were as tasty for brunch as they were when I had them for lunch.

We had two different Stuffed Bao ($4 each), one with roasted duck and the other with soy braised chicken. The steamed bun which acts as the bread is soft and light, and contains plenty of flavorful and tender meat. I enjoyed both the duck and chicken, and want to try their braised short rib and Asian pear Bao.

The Tea-Smoked Pork Spare Ribs ($5) are also on the regular menu and this dish is only a tiny bit smaller than the regular dish. I love these incredibly tender ribs, which come off the bone very easily. Plenty of meat with a delicious glaze.

The Nasi Goreng ($5) is another small version of a regular menu item, and another good choice. (I ordered several dishes I have previously eaten because my dining companion, my mom, had never been to Myers & Chang. So I wanted her to experience some of the excellent dishes I knew she would love.)

Something new to me were the Shrimp and Corn Fritters (4 for $5) which come with a cilantro lime sauce and an aioli. These were absolutely heavenly! Light, fluffy and flavorful with real kernels of corn. The shrimp, corn and spice flavors melded well together and I didn't think they needed any sauce. I liked their clean flavor and felt they were fine on their own. I could have sat and easily eaten a dozen of these fritters.

Chef Matthew Barrows was working the brunch and spent a little time chatting with us, asking us whether we enjoyed the dishes. He was quite personable and his passion was evident. He asked whether we wanted to try a new dish he was working on and we eagerly assented. It was a Seared Scallop in Sweet Corn Sauce with Chili Sauce. Chef Barros prepared the dish while we watched and it was excellent. The good-sized scallop was perfectly cooked and the sauce was very tasty, a nice sweetness to it, and it went very well with the scallop. That corn sauce would work well with other dishes too. You may see this dish on their Dim Sum menu in the future.

Service was excellent, as usual. Overall, I was very pleased with their Dim Sum Brunch and I will certainly return. All of the dishes I had were delicious. Plus, overall it was a good value with plenty of food for a reasonable price. I am sure that it will also continue to get better over time, with new and innovative dishes to tantalize the palate. Maybe I will see you there some time.

Myers & Chang
1145 Washington St (South End)
Boston MA
Phone: 617-542-5200

Monday, July 13, 2009

Rant: Cheap Booze

Like most people this summer, I'll attend a number of parties and BBQs. Kudoes and thanks should go to those hosting these gatherings. But one thing does irk me about some of these parties. Cheap booze.

If the hosts want their guests to enjoy themselves, to enjoy the food and drink, then they should be willing to spend a little extra money to at least buy average quality alcohol. Alcohol comes in generally three classes: cheap, average and premium. Cheap booze often is lesser quality, and you can taste the difference. Plus, it often seems more prone to causing hangovers. It certainly won't impress your guests.

Obviously hosts buy the cheap booze to save money, but I don't think the monetary savings make up for the non-monetary costs. And it is not like average quality booze is that much more expensive than the cheap stuff. There are plenty of discount clubs that sell alcohol at a discount so the average stuff is even less expensive. A host doesn't have to buy top shelf booze for his guests. But the host shouldn't buy the cheapest rotgut either.

So, when you host parties, what quality booze do you supply?