AKA Bistro: Coming Soon to Lincoln

AKA Bistro is coming....and it intrigues me.

Christian Touche, the GM who assisted in opening Ken Oringer’s Clio Restaurant in Boston, as well as managing it for 12 years, and Chef Chris Chung of Uni are collaborating on AKA Bistro, which is set to open in mid-March in Lincoln. AKA Bistro will feature original Japanese sashimi and traditional Provençal fare, presented separately, with respect for the two cuisines. "AKA" means "red" in Japanese, and you can see the color reflected in their logo.

Touche will supervise the front of the house. Chung, who will serve as executive chef at the new AKA Bistro, was recently named the 2009 Boston Rising Star for his innovative sashimi creations. Chung combines the east/west food influences he grew up with in Macau, China, a former Portuguese colony, with other cultural influences.

Chung has over 600 unique recipes to rotate into the sashimi bar menu. The restaurant will feature both local and imported fish and will be the first in the Boston area to feature Kindai tuna from Japan. Kindai is unique in that it is farm raised from the egg and is supposed to be more sustainable than wild caught bluefin. Though the practice is not without controversy, and I will explore the issue in the near future with Chef Chung.

“I have always cared about the environment. I want to show people we can still enjoy good food without destroying nature,” said Chung.

The French side of the menu will introduce the authentic Provençal recipes handed down from Christian’s great grandmother through his mother, Anny Touche. Whether choosing from the French bistro or the sashimi menu, everything will be fresh, seasonal and locally grown when possible. Touche and Chung will maintain a strong relationship with local growers and consider the farms around Lincoln to be one of the restaurant’s biggest assets. The small community of Lincoln with its surrounding farms has many of the same idyllic characteristics as Beaumes-de-Venise near Avignon, the rural village in France where Touche is from.

"This is the food I grew up eating in southern France, so it comes easy to me,” said Touche.

AKA Bistro will bring a city dining experience to Lincoln with quality food and quality service, but without city prices. “It is casual country dining with a pedigree.” The new space will be rustic and casual, comfortable for a family dinner, date night, or business gathering. Open for lunch and dinner, the restaurant will also serve brunch on weekends and provide take-out.

“We want people to feel relaxed when they are here and know this is a place they can return to again and again,” said Touche.

I will be getting more information about AKA Bistro so look forward to a future post.

AKA Bistro
145 Lincoln Rd.
Lincoln, MA

Prezza: Vietti Wine Dinner

Last Wednesday, a major Nor'easter was forecast, and it was thought we would have a foot or more of snow. I was disappointed as I had plans to attend a wine dinner in the North End. Fortunately, the forecast was wrong and we barely had a couple inches of snow, so I was able to easily trek into the city. And I am extremely glad that I did.

The four-course wine dinner, which I had been invited to as press, was held at Prezza, with a special guest, winemaker Lucca Currado of the Vietti Winery in Italy. Prezza is owned by Chef Anthony Caturano, pictured above, and he named the restaurant after the ancient Italian town where his grandmother was born. The restaurant has a rustic style, with influences from other Mediterranean regions, and emphasizes seasonality. Thus, the menu frequently changes to capitalize on what is seasonal.

Based on the dinner, I have to praise Chef Caturano for an amazing culinary experience. Each dish was superb and I savored every bite. I will most certainly return to try more of his cuisine, and I anticipate that I will equally as impressed. Based on my experience, I give Prezza my highest recommendation.

There were only twelve of us at this dinner, and we sat at a long table, beside a window looking out onto the street. I sat directly across from Lucca Currado, the guest of honor (pictured above). Lucca was extremely personable, with a good wit, and obviously passionate about wine. The wines he provided were also excellent, pairing very well with the various courses. Great food, great wine, and stimulating conversation made for a top-notch evening.

Lucca feels that "wine is made in the vineyard," so they view winemaking more as delivering the wine from the vineyard, rather than trying to manipulate it to their desires. It is very hands-off winemaking. They have also been organic for about 25 years. Lucca believes that they have "grapes and vineyards that no one else has." Amusingly, Lucca stated that our life is a "small fart" of about 40 years compared to the vineyard which has over 400 years. Thus, embrace the terroir and don't try to impart your own style onto the vineyard.

The evening began with a glass of the 2008 Roera Arneis, made from 100% Arneis which has not seen malolactic fermentation or oak. This was delicious, with a floral aroma, crispness, fine citrus flavors and hints of minerality. A refreshing wine which would also pair well with food.

The Vietti Winery actually bears much responsibility for saving Arneis, as well as making dry Arneis so popular in Italy. Arneis used to be referred to as the "wine of the mother-in-law," something which was often blended with other grapes. It was sometimes blended with Nebbiolo to make a Rose or made into a sweet wine. But, it was dying off, with less and less plantings, and could soon vanish completely.

Alfredo Currado though saw potential in Arneis, and desired to make a dry Arneis. So he somehow convinced some priests to assist him, by bringing him whatever Arneis vines they could find. Alfredo then started to experiment, making his first dry Arneis in 1968. This eventually became extremely popular, the government even taking cuttings, and the grape was saved from extinction.

Prior to our first course arriving, we received baskets of warm, fresh bread, some rustic Italian and foccacia, with a dish of olive oil and olives, black and green. Of course this started me off in a very positive mood, as everyone knows how much I love warm bread.

Our first course was Rabbit Saltimboca with Saffron Risotto, paired with the 2007 Dolcetto D’Alba Tre Vigne. The tender, rabbit loins were wrapped in prosciutto and were fantastic! I love rabbit and these loins were moist and flavorful, with the fine, salty flavor of the prosciutto. Plus, the risotto was delicious, reminding me a bit of paella due to the saffron flavor. The pasta was cooked perfectly, and the intense flavors went well with the rabbit. This is a dish I would definitely order again if it were on the menu.

Lucca has spent extra time working on Dolcetto, taking it on as a special mission. The wine is made from old vine grapes, 100% Dolcetto D'Alba. I found it to have lush fruit flavors, including black cherry and blueberry, good acidity and soft tannins. An easy-drinking wine, it would be perfect for everything from pizza to pasta.

The second course was Goat Cheese Gnocchi with a Lamb Ragout and Pecorino Cheese, paired with a 2006 Barbera D’Alba Scarrone and a 2006 Nebbiolo Perbaco. This dish seduced my nose, the aromas so alluring. And its taste fulfilled the promise of its aroma, an exceptionally rich, rustic dish with plenty of pieces of very tender lamb and pillowy gnocchi. Each bite pleased me more and more, and I don't think this dish could have been any better. I could probably have eaten three plates of this dish.

The aroma of the Barbera was equally as compelling as the food. The fruit smells were so enticing, it took a time before I tasted it, simply reveling in the delightful aromas. On the palate, there was plenty of cherry flavor, with touches of vanilla and spice. It was smooth, with a moderately long finish, and went well with the pasta. I have tasted the Nebbiolo before, having enjoyed it then as well as now.

The final entree was Rosemary Braised Pork Shank with Asiago Polenta and Braised Greens, paired with a 2005 Barolo Castiglione and 2004 Barolo Lazzarito. The pork was meaty, very tender, and extremely flavorful. It just melted in your mouth, a rustic delight. The polenta was also very pleasing, a cheesy pleasure. Chef Caturano had scored a hat trick, three dishes that scored perfectly.

The two Barolos were fantastic, complex, rich and profound. The Castiglione is made from a blend of Barolo crus. The Lazzarito is from land where a hospital is located, which had been built about 400 years ago to deal with a local plague. The wines went well with the pork shank and it was difficult to choose which of the two I preferred. They both were compelling, and you would not be disappointed with either.

For dessert, we had a plate of assorted cheeses and accompaniments. I was quite happily sated at the end of dinner. The food had been exquisite, the wines sublime and the conversation compelling. It was nice to see and chat with Caroline and Eric, the owners of Vintages: Adventures in Wine. It was also nice to meet some new people. I was so glad that the weathermen were wrong, and that snow did not prevent me from attending this wonderful dinner.

I am sure I will return to Prezza, again and again.

Prezza
24 Fleet St.
Boston, MA
Phone: 617-227-1577

Stoneham Sun: Shaken Not Stirred

My new column of "A Passionate Foodie" can be found in the February 17 issue of the Stoneham Sun newspaper. This is a weekly column that concentrates on reviews of local restaurants though it also sometimes touches on other food and wine topics.

The new column has been published today and will be available online soon. The new article is a review of The Boston Shaker, a new cocktail supply store in Somerville, near Davis Square. This small store has a wide variety of cocktail tools, equipment, books and ingredients, many hard to locate elsewhere. For cocktail novices or experts, this is a worthy shop to visit.

If you have any questions or comments about my column, feel free to add them here.

Drink with passion.

Ashmont Grill: Chef Douglass Now Cooking

It’s been an interesting eight months for Boston chef and restaurateur Chris Douglass.

Icarus, his beloved fine dining restaurant in Boston's South End, closed in July after a run of over 30 years. Rather than mourn the end of an era, Chris spent the remainder of 2009 shuttling back and forth between Ashmont Grill and Tavolo, proactively growing his two casual concept restaurants in the Dorchester neighborhood where he lives. He acted as handyman, host, janitor, bookkeeper, butcher, baker and sommelier.

Effective this week, Douglass will be cooking dinner at the Ashmont Grill every night. A new winter menu debuts today.

Featured entrees include:

* Navajo Stew: hominy, beans, chiles and fry bread ($15)

* Braised Lamb over Pappardelle with dried cherries, gremolata ($17)

* Baked Macaroni & Moody Bleu Smoked Cheese ($15)--I love the name of this cheese!

* Slow-Roasted, Cider-Glazed Pork Belly with Boston baked beans, brown bread and apple slaw ($17)

* Spare Ribs with apricot-chipotle glaze and hush puppies ($16)

* From Pastry Chef Clare Garland: Hazelnut Marjoleine, nutty cake layered with orange buttercream, coated in chocolate ganache, garnished with praline ($8)

Also be sure to check out their Monday Night Wine Club: $30 for a Night of Big Pours and Small Plates

March 1 – Sonoma
March 8 – Loire Valley
March 15 – Marvelous Malbecs
March 22 – Washington State
March 29 – Germany
April 5 – Tuscany vs. Puglia
April 12 – Grapes Grown in the Hills
April 19 – Russian River Valley
April 26 – Classic Cocktails

Ashmont Grill
555 Talbot Ave.
Dorchester, MA
Phone: 617-825-4300

Myers+Chang Inaugural Cooking Class

I am now an Iron Chef of Asian cuisine, a chef extraordinaire! Ok, maybe I am just a Master Chef. Well, the reality is that I am still very mediocre, but at least I now have some additional knowledge which has enhanced my culinary skills.

Myers + Chang, which was my Favorite Asian Restaurant of 2009 as well as my Favorite Brunch, Non-Traditional Fare, held their inaugural cooking class this past Saturday morning. Twelve of us sat at the counter before the stoves and watched Chef Matthew Barros lead the class, demonstrating how to create scallions pancakes, papapya slaw and Mama Chang's pork & chive dumplings.

When the class was originally announced via their email newsletter, I was quick to respond with my interest. I wanted to know more about how they created their dumplings, and the scallion pancakes and slaw were an added bonus. I was not disappointed.

Prior to the class starting, we got to enjoy some treats from Flour Bakery, which certainly was a tasty way to begin. The blueberry muffin top was excellent, with plenty of blueberries, and it was not overly sweet. Christopher Myers then spoke briefly, introducing the class and providing the three objectives for the class: 1) To feed us; 2) For us to have fun; and 3) For us to learn how to prepare the three recipes at home. In the end, the class was a success on all three fronts.

Chef Matthew Barros then took over, first describing his culinary background. Though he claimed to be nervous, and probably was a bit, it was not evident in his manner. He did very well, explaining everything with a bit of humor and humility. We were free to ask any question, and Matt answered them all as well as possible. His down to earth manner, and lack of pretension, made him a very good instructor.

Matt first demonstrated to us how to make scallion pancakes, and you can see him above spreading the scallion mix atop the dough. Scallion pancakes are a traditional Chinese street food, and usually are made with non-leavened bread. But Myers + Chang uses a foccaccia bread, a yeast dough that gives the pancake a light, fluffy texture. At home, you could use a pizza dough, though Flour Bakery does sell their foccacia dough. The scallions are sliced thin, using just the greens, and then minced. We learned plenty of tips to ensure the pancakes came out correctly, and then we got to taste the finished product.

Now, I am very picky about my scallion pancakes, primarily because I prefer smaller pieces of scallions and many places use large pieces in their pancakes. This scallion pancake was excellent, with its finely minced scallions. Plus, the pancake itself was light, crisp and flaky. I will definitely order these again on my next trip to Myers+Chang.

Next up, we learned how to prepare papaya slaw. This dish uses an unripe papaya, which is not always easy to find. An unripe papaya is like tofu, basically flavorless and it takes on the flavor of whatever else is mixed with it. Plus, it has a firm texture and a longer shelf life than a ripe papaya. The finished slaw is hot and spicy, with citrus notes and crunchiness from the roasted peanuts. Another delightful treat.

We then moved onto the centerpiece of the cooking class, Mama Chang's pork & chive dumplings. Matt prepared the pork mixture, which uses 70% lean pork, Napa cabbage, garlic chives, ginger, sesame oil and soy sauce. It was then our chance to get interactive, to make our own dumplings. We each received three dumpling skins, and scoops of the pork mixture, and we were supposed to press the dumplings together. Easier said than done.

Joanne Chang showed us her technique for crimping, though she later noted that some of her staff do it differently. There is really no single way to properly crimp dumplings. And as Andrea Nguyen notes in her new book, Asian Dumplings, "Asian dumplings don't have to look pretty to taste fabulous." (p.3) That is very appropriate for my own efforts in that regard.

Above, are the results of my own crimping, and as you can see, I need much more practice. Too many gaps, and they don't look as good as the ones you usually see at restaurants. But it was fun to try, one of the highlights of the cooking class. I just need more practice, like most any skill. I am sure they would have tasted fine anyways.

My wife did a far better job of making dumplings, and they definitely look as good as you see in any restaurant. And she does not have any prior experience at making dumplings.

The cooking class lasted for about ninety minutes, and time flew by. It was then was time for Dim Sum brunch. We got our choice of the dim sum menu, and there are plenty of great choices there, including some new items such as their fried egg and bacon banh mi sandwich. That was quite a large and tasty sandwich. The twelve of us gorged ourselves on a wide variety of items, and no one left that table hungry. Everyone was very happy with all they ate.

After our brunch, and as an unexpected treat, Chef Barros took us over to Ming's Supermarket, which is across the street, for a brief tour, especially to show us the items he used in making the three recipes we learned. I had never been to Ming's before, and was impressed at its size and diversity of available items. It was quite busy, though understandable considering it was the day before Chinese New Year. I picked up a few things, including black Chiangking vinegar and sesame oil.

As for the original objectives for this class: 1) We definitely ate plenty of delicious food; 2) We had lots of fun; and 3) I think I learned enough to make the recipes at home, and will try to do so in the near future. So overall, the class was quite a success.

Chef Barros hopes to run about two cooking classes a month, changing the theme monthly. For his next class, he might run a sustainable seafood class. These classes will be limited to 12 people and you should sign up for the Myers+Chang newsletter to get notified about upcoming classes. They do sell out quickly so if you want to go, you better reply as soon as you learn about the class.

The class costs $50 per person, which includes the cooking demonstration plus a full dim sum brunch. I think this is a very fair price for all that you get and I certainly would recommend the classes to everyone. I know I will be signing up for more classes in the future.

Great work Chef Barros!