Rant: Dires Times For Restaurants

These are dire times for restaurants, with a combination of factors contributing to the perils facing the restaurant industry. And it doesn't appear that these factors will lessen anytime soon. 

A recent CNN article addressed this issue, stating: "Local restaurants across the country are reeling as some key costs skyrocket and consumers — who remain nervous about the economy’s future — cut back and become less willing to pony up for higher prices."

Anyone who has gone shopping at their local supermarket understands the rising costs of many products, and of course restaurants face that same problem, rising ingredient costs. For example, beef prices, from ground beef to steak, have been rising to record levels and are up 10%-12% since last year. The prices of plenty of other ingredients have risen significantly as well. Thus, restaurants, which already operate on small margins on their food, have had to raise prices because of increased ingredients costs. 

In addition, many restaurants are facing labor issues, finding it difficult to find good help. This problem has been facing restaurants for a number of years, even before Covid, and is probably even worse now. That too has led to increased restaurant costs, which often lead to higher prices. I've spoken to a number of chefs in the last several years who have mentioned their difficulties in hiring quality staff. Plenty of other industries are having a similar problem.  

Complicating matters, and leading to further restaurant woes, is that consumers, of both lower and middle-incoming, are not dining out as much as they once did. They are having their own economic woes, and restaurant dining, often seen as a luxury, is one thing they feel they can more easily cut back on. And as restaurants are forced to raise their prices, it makes it more difficult for consumers to dine out.    

What's the solution? This is certainly not an easy situation to resolve. However, part of the solution likely requires consumers to dine out more. When you dine out, you can take some cost-cutting measures, maybe order less appetizers or less cocktails. Get take out from some of the better restaurants, rather than the usual fast-casual ones. Make dining out a special experience, so you feel you are getting your money's worth.

What other solutions do you suggest?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
******************************************************
1) New England’s largest food recovery organization, Spoonfuls, is announcing “Battle of the Bites”, a new event series featuring head-to-head live cooking competitions where guests will try both dishes and vote for the winner. The first event will be on August 20 and features Chef Jamie Bissonnette (Somaek, Temple Records, ZURiTO) and Cape Cod seafood sensation Chef Drew Grosse (The Lobster Trap). 

These two culinary luminaries, along with hosts, Chefs Nick Dixon and Rick Tormey of Lincoln Tavern & Restaurant, are donating their time and cuisine to ensure all proceeds support Spoonfuls’ mission to reduce waste and fight hunger. Tickets are just $50 at https://onecau.se/battleofthebites and include appetizers from Lincoln, signature cocktails from presenting sponsor Tito’s Handmade Vodka, opportunities to taste both chef’s creations, and more.

Chef Jamie Bissonnette shared, “I’ve been a proud champion of Spoonfuls’ mission and member of their Culinary Board for years. Given the way of the world right now, it’s never more important to do what we can for our neighbors who are struggling to put food on the table. I’m excited for a night of fun, friendly competition with my old pal, Chef Drew. You better bring your A-game, buddy!”

Said Spoonfuls’ Chief Advancement Officer, Erin Keohane, “Spoonfuls is fortunate to have impactful, longstanding partnerships in the hospitality community, whose generosity is instrumental to our fundraising strategy. In the wake of cuts to federal funding, programs, and safety net resources, Spoonfuls’ deliveries of fresh, healthy food have become even more critical for our 200+ partner organizations and the communities they serve. Knowing we can call upon the likes of Chefs Bissonnette, Grosse, and Dixon - among many others - to get creative with us during a time of uncertainty, is incredibly encouraging and exciting. We look forward to a great night!”

2) On Thursday, August 21, at 7pm, join InterContinental Boston’s Matria for a wine dinner with Stags’ Leap Winery, an exclusive three-course dining experience. The evening will showcase a curated menu highlighting fresh, seasonal ingredients and artful presentation, with each course paired with an exceptional wine from Stags’ Leap Winery.

The curated menu begins with an amuse-bouche: a deconstructed Short Rib Arancini, featuring layered creamy risotto and a tender braised short rib center, finished with roasted red pepper sauce, shaved Parmesan cheese, and lemon zest, paired with Stags’ Leap Sauvignon Blanc. For the first-course, enjoy a Classic Caesar Salad served in a parmesan crisp bowl, topped with a whole white anchovy, garlic chickpeas, and lemon zest, paired with Stags’ Leap Chardonnay. The main course highlight is Filet Marsala, seared beef filet finished in a Marsala reduction with parsley-swirled pappardelle, trumpet mushrooms, and white and green asparagus segments, paired with Stags’ Leap Cabernet Sauvignon. To end the evening on a sweet note, indulge in Tiramisu, made with whipped mascarpone cheese, lady fingers, cocoa powder, and espresso, paired with Stags’ Leap’s ‘Lead The Investor’ red wine.

Cost: $120.00 (excludes tax and gratuity).
Reservations: Space is limited, to reserve a seat, visit Resy.

3) The new Tacos El Chikis—a fast-casual taqueria is debuting on Northern Avenue in the Seaport. George Aboujaoude and Dominick Minots, the team behind Eva on Newbury Street and Committee (located next door in the Seaport), have partnered with José Antonio Paredes on the project. Culinary direction is led by Eva’s Executive Chef, Vince Carideo.

The name Tacos El Chikis is a playful nod to the casual, beloved taco stands found throughout Mexico for generations. “Chikis” is also an affectionate term meaning “little ones”—and like those street stands, their dishes will deliver bold, unforgettable flavors that match. Chef Vince Carideo and George Aboujaoude, both of Lebanese heritage, have thoughtfully incorporated their roots into the menu at Tacos El Chikis. Mexican cuisine itself has long embraced Lebanese influences—take al pastor, a dish inspired by shawarma brought to Mexico by Lebanese immigrants. To celebrate this cultural connection, Chef Vince has introduced a lamb al pastor, offering a distinctly Lebanese twist on the beloved Mexican classic.

"We’re excited to bring Tacos El Chikis to the Seaport. This passion project blends the bold flavors of Mexico with the cultural influences of our Lebanese heritage. My partner Dominick and I have had our eye on this space for a while, so it’s especially meaningful to open right next to our other restaurant, Committee. Tacos El Chikis is a fun, fast-casual spot where people can enjoy something fresh and flavorful—whether it’s a quick lunch, a late-night bite, or anything in between. We can’t wait to welcome everyone and become part of the neighborhood,” says owner George Aboujaoude.

The Opening Menu: For tacos, choose from Pollo (grilled dark meat chicken), Carne Asada (grilled skirt steak), Pastor (marinated pork with pineapple), Portobello Pastor (marinated mushroom), Vegetariano (roasted seasonal vegetables), Quesabirria (braised spiced beef), Chicharrones (crispy pork belly), and/or Lamb Pastor (slow-roasted lamb with pineapple). For heartier appetites, guests can try Quekas (flour tortillas stuffed with beans and cheese), Cemitas (Mexican sandwiches filled with Milanesa (breaded pork cutlet), carne asada, or vegetarian. Bowls are loaded with your choice of protein, rice, beans, pico de gallo, guacamole, and lettuce—plus the option to make it a burrito. Sides include chips and guac, rice and beans, and chicharrones. Tacos El Chikis will also offer curated lists of Mexican beers and wines.

Tacos El Chikis will be open Sunday through Thursday from 11 AM to 11 PM, and Friday and Saturday nights from 11 AM to 1 AM.

4) MAZÍ Food Group (Desnuda Cocina & Bar, Gigi, Ilona, Kava Neo-Taverna) has just debuted the newest addition in its growing restaurant collection: Louis Corner. Situated on the corner of Tremont and Waltham streets, in the South End,  Louis (pronounced Lou-ee) Corner will be an elevated American gastropub concept.

MAZÍ Food Group’s executive chef and owner Jesus Preciado has reimagined a menu rooted in core American cuisine with occasional Irish influences. Designed for sharing, guests can expect a collection of starters like pickled vegetables, Rockefeller oysters, fried cauliflower, deviled eggs, and a variety of local oysters. Spanning regional specialties from the Northeast to the south, highlights from the dinner menu include a smashburger, mac and cheese, fish and chips, and jambalaya while classic sandwiches preparations – from a lobster roll to roast beef and a Cubano – grace the menu at lunchtime.

Louis Corner’s beverage program will encompass cordials, beer and wine while paying tribute to classic American cocktails. The wine program has been curated to celebrate American vintners, with endeavors based both stateside and overseas, while the beer selections will showcase local and craft offerings available by the can and bottle. I'm excited to see their wine list including offerings from Virginia, the Finger Lakes, Long Island, and New Mexico. Most of the rest of their wines comes from California, Washington, and Oregon with a smattering of European wines.  

The Origin of Scali Bread: A Fitchburg Original

If you grew up in Massachusetts, you're probably familiar with Scali Bread, a braided loaf, covered in sesame seeds, which is soft and light. 

I grew up with Scali bread, and enjoyed plenty of sandwiches between two thin and long slices of this bread. The origins of Scali bread are murky, and most sources allege that it was created by the Scali family in the North End, but none of those sources offers a shred of evidence to prove their claim. No one provides a specific date of its creation, or can name the first bakery to produce it. No one offers the first names of those in the Scali family who were part of its creation. The allegation simply sounds appealing to people, despite the lack of any proof. 

I've done my own research, and found evidence that Scali bread likely originated in Fitchburg, in 1941, at the Sunlight Bakery. I didn't find evidence of Scali bread in Boston until the 1950s, and none of those references dealt with the North End. I didn't find evidence of the involvement of the Scali family, and I have my own alternative theory for the reason for its name. 

The first documented reference I found for Scali bread was in the Fitchburg Sentinel, February 12, 1941. There was a large ad for Brockelman's Bros Inc., and part of that ad mentioned the offerings from their Sunlight Bakery, including "New Tasty Crusty Italian Scali Bread" for 12 cents. This indicates the bread was something new, although it doesn't describe the bread in much detail, or indicate the reason for the name. 

The Brockelman's Brothers opened a small grocery store at 400 Green Street in Fitchburg in 1887. By 1936, this small store had grown to a small chain, with locations in Clinton, Fitchburg, Framingham, Gardner, Lawrence, Leominster, Lowell, Nashua, and Worcester. Their Sunlight Bakery produced all of their own breads and other baked goods. And throughout the 1940s, they would be the only store in Massachusetts advertising Scali bread! That's certainly indicative that they invented the bread. 

Why call it Scali bread? In Italian, the word "scali" translates as "stairs, terraces or steps," and derives from an older word that translates as "ladder." When you look at the braided Scali loaf, it can resemble a ladder, so it's my theory is that is why the bread acquired its name. 

The Fitchburg Sentinel, February 11, 1947, also had a large ad for Brockelman's Supermarkets, and offered "Scali Bread (Italian)" for 15 cents. A few months later, in April 1947, the price of Scali had risen to 16 cents. And by December 1950, the price of their Scali bread had risen to 19 cents. 

The first mention of Scali bread outside of the Brockelman's Brothers in Fitchburg occurred in the Boston Sunday Herald, April 2, 1950. The newspaper had a large ad for the new Waltham Super Market, in Waltham, which had its own bakery and offered Scali bread for only 12 cents. Both of these grocery stores were baking their own Scali bread, and weren't buying it from elsewhere.

The first mention of Scali bread in Boston didn't appear until 1957, sixteen years after is appearance in Fitchburg. The Boston Globe, April 23, 1957, printed an ad for the Elm Farm, a chain of Boston-area supermarkets, offering Scali bread for 21 cents. Interestingly, the Scali bread appears to have been packaged in a plastic wrapper like many commercial breads, rather than the clear plastic Scali bread more commonly seen today. 

An ad in the Boston Globe, April 30, 1958, explained the source of the Scali bread at the Elm Farm, noting it was "Baked fresh...Sold fresh every day" and delivered by Warren's. This was probably the Warren Baking Co., an Italian and French bakery that was once located in Cambridge. We also see that the Scali was packaged in a plastic bag resembling what you might see for Wonder Bread. Again, there was no connection to the North End. 

The Boston Sunday Herald, April 26, 1959, had a small ad for the Mazzola Bros., French and Italian bakers, located in Newton, who also made "Sliced Italian Scali Bread."

It wouldn't be until the 1960s and 1970s that there started to be mentions of Scali bread in the North End, although none of the references ever claimed that Scali bread originated there. Scali bread eventually became a staple at many Italian bakeries in the North End, so people began to assume that is where it originated. However, it's far more likely that it was first created in Fitchburg in 1941. During the 1940s, there weren't references to Scali bread from any other source. It wouldn't be until the 1950s that other sources were mentioned, in Waltham, Cambridge and Newton. Not the North End.

Rant: Eat More Lamb!

Why do so few American eat lamb?

For many Americans, they might only have lamb maybe once a year, during the Easter holiday. Still others won't eat lamb even on these holidays. Others might have lamb only at Greek restaurants, such as in a gyro, although I've been told multiple times by Greeks that lamb isn't a common meat in their country. 

Lamb consumption in the U.S. has seen a drastic decline over the years and that needs to change. More people need to eat lamb and there are multiple reasons why they should do so. Lamb is nutritious, delicious, versatile, and uses less resources than some other meats, such as beef.

Back in the early 1940s, there were about 56 million sheep and lambs in the U.S. but that number has dropped to just over 5 million, less than 10% of its previous count. In comparison, there are over 90 million cattle in the U.S.  Beef is far more popular than lamb and that is plain to see. Half of the lamb that is now consumed in the U.S. is imported, primarily from Australia and New Zealand.  

As for lamb consumption, the average American, during the early 1960s, ate annually about 4.5 pounds of lamb. By 1990, this amount had significantly declined to 1.6 pounds and by 2012, the amount had dropped down to less than one pound, and recent statistics indicate consumption is still less than 1 pound. In comparison, the average American annually consumes about 225 pounds of meat, including about 82 pounds of beef and 127 pounds of poultry.  

If we examine who is eating lamb, we also realize that certain ethnic groups, such as Greek, Middle Eastern, Hispanic, and Native Americans, consume far more lamb than others. Lamb consumption also occurs far more often on both the East and West coasts. In the middle of the country, there are plenty of people who never eat lmab. We can also see that lamb consumption, for many, is confined to certain holidays.

Lamb often seems to be a polarizing meat, one you either love or hate. The most common complaint I have heard about lamb is that it possesses a strong, gamey taste which many find off putting. Although some lamb does have a gamey flavor, much of it doesn't possess that nature or only to a very mild degree. It seems to me that much of the opposition to lamb is actually psychological, due to misconceptions about its actual nature. Maybe in the past, some lamb had a stronger, gamier taste, but that is largely changed. In addition, much depends on how the lamb is prepared. 

There are also sometimes complaints that lamb is too expensive and too difficult to cook. First, you can find less expensive cuts and preparations of lamb, such as ground lamb. Second, you don't need to eat a large portion of lamb, just as you don't really need to eat a large steak. Smaller cuts of meat are less expensive. As for cooking, it's a versatile meat, which can easily be prepared in a wide manner of dishes. It's not a difficult meat to cook, and that's a misconception which needs to be overthrown.

Consumers need to get over their fears of lamb and simply taste more lamb dishes. I'm sure, if they give it a chance, they will find they actually enjoy the taste of lamb. Besides its great taste, it is also a healthy meat. I've spoken often about the health benefits of Omega-3 fatty acids, and lamb possesses five times as many Omega-3s as does beef.  It's also a very good source of Protein, Vitamin B12, Niacin, Zinc and Selenium.

Break out of your prejudices against lamb. Embrace it, buy it, cook it, order it at restaurants, explore its versatility, and put it on your plate. It's a healthy and delicious choice. What are you waiting for?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
******************************************************
1) In celebration of Boston’s 115th Fisherman’s Feast, North End favorite Prezza is offering a special seafood-focused menu available from August 1–17. Prezza is marking the occasion with six limited-time dishes, available a la carte, that showcase New England seafood with a Mediterranean twist.

The ‘Fisherman’s Feast’ menu includes:
Patriot Oysters with Cucumber Mignonette and Cocktail Sauce
Fried Clams paired with a Lemon Caper Aioli
Bluefin Tuna Crudo including Cara Cara Orange, Fennel, Citrus Vinaigrette, and Calabrian Chiles
White Anchovy Crostini with Garlic, Wine, Cherry Tomatoes, and Olive Tapenade
Octopus Flatbread containing Potatoes, Arugula, Lemon, Black Olive Tapenade, Feta Cheese
Warm Buttered Lobster, Brioche Toast, Lobster Butter, as well as Italian Cole Slaw, and Old Bay Fries

2) On August 6, MAZÍ Food Group (Desnuda Cocina & Bar, Gigi, Ilona, Kava Neo-Taverna) will debut the newest addition in its growing restaurant collection: Louis Corner. Situated on the corner of Tremont and Waltham streets, in the South End,  Louis (pronounced Lou-ee) Corner will be an elevated American gastropub concept.

Using a blend of seating options to encourage a lively social experience, the 48 seats are a mix of bar settings, brown leather banquettes and mid-top tables flanked with bronze-studded chairs.  MAZÍ Food Group’s executive chef and owner Jesus Preciado has reimagined a menu rooted in core American cuisine with occasional Irish influences. Designed for sharing, guests can expect a collection of starters like pickled vegetables, Rockefeller oysters, fried cauliflower, deviled eggs, and a variety of local oysters. Spanning regional specialties from the Northeast to the south, highlights from the dinner menu include a smashburger, mac and cheese, fish and chips, and jambalaya while classic sandwiches preparations – from a lobster roll to roast beef and a Cubano – grace the menu at lunchtime.

Louis Corner’s beverage program will encompass cordials, beer and wine while paying tribute to classic American cocktails. The wine program has been curated to celebrate American vintners, with endeavors based both stateside and overseas, while the beer selections will showcase local and craft offerings available by the can and bottle. Louis Corner will be open weekdays beginning at 11:00am with brunch service available weekends beginning at 9:00am.