Are Spanish Diners Being Poisoned?

Are Spanish diners being poisoned? Is molecular gastronomy a threat to your life?

At least one Spanish chef is warning of the potential dangers of this cuisine and his views have garnered quite a heated discussion. The New York Times recently posted an article by Victoria Burnett, Spain’s Top Chefs Clash Over Ingredients and Culinary Innovations, which discusses this intriguing issue.

Molecular gastronomy is very hot in Spain and masters of this cuisine have garnered quite a lot of Michelin stars. The king of this cuisine is Ferran Adria, owner and chef of the famed El Bulli.

But Spanish Chef Santi Santamaría has attacked those chefs, "... accusing them of producing pretentious food they would not eat themselves — and potentially poisoning diners with chemicals that he says have no place in the kitchen." Santamaría recently accepted a prize for his new book, “La Cocina al Desnudo” (“The Kitchen Laid Bare”). He prefers more traditional cooking, using natural ingredients.

Santamaría’s targets have fought back, stating that many of the ingredients they use are natural and those that are not, are harmless. Some also feel it may be a bit of sour grapes, that Santmaria has not garnered the fame of someone like Adria.

While I was in Spain, I dined at Restaurante Martin Berasategui in Lasarte, just outside San Sebastian. This is a Michelin Three-Star restaurant and they do engage in some molecular gastronomy. I thought it was an exceptional dinner and the fact that it was not traditional did not bother me in the least. I had plenty of more traditional meals while I was in Spain so this was I was glad to have something different. I believe many of the ingredients were quite fresh and locally acquired. I certainly never felt that there was any danger in eating such cuisine.

Spain is certainly large enough for both tradition and innovation. It would be boring if all restaurants were the same. I also have not heard before anyone else claiming that such molecular gastronomy was potentially a poison risk. Has anyone ever been harmed by such? Or it is more baseless fear-mongering? This cuisine has been around for some time and I would think any potential harms would have already been eradicated.

What do you think? Is there anything wrong with molecular gastronomy?