Culinary Creativity: The New Edition

What is the wellspring of inspiration, the source of creativity?

As a writer, I have some understanding of the creative process, but creativity is not for writers alone as it exists in all professions. Each person derives inspiration from a variety of sources as well as undertaking their own unique processes. Their backgrounds and experience often affect these matters. If we better understand someone's creative process, I think that can make us more appreciative of the work of such individuals.

Chefs can be very creative individuals, concocting new recipes and dishes, or cleverly altering an existing recipe. However, there are restaurants where the menu never seems to change. A chef at such a place will make the same dishes, day in and day out, and the act of cooking becomes repetitive and routine. But I believe that the truly passionate chefs will not be not satisfied working in such restaurants. They will want to be inventive, to expand their own culinary horizons. They will constantly be seeking to better themselves, to improve their dishes. They will relish the challenge and their patrons will benefit. Their menus will constantly change, with new dishes continually being added.

I greatly appreciate and admire the culinary creativity of such chefs and desire to gain a better understanding of their creative process. I want to delve into their methods of crafting new dishes and to seek out their inspirations. I hope to gain even more admiration for their profession through analyzing their creative process.

Sixteen years ago, in 2009, I began such an endeavor, to enhance my comprehension of such matters and to share my findings with my readers. Over the course of nine years, I interviewed nineteen chefs, who were different in many ways. This allowed me to obtain a better overall perspective on culinary creativity. However, I haven't added to this series in seven years, and feel its time to resurrect it for 2026, to interview more chefs, to add to our understanding of culinary creativity. 

Here are the basic questions I ask each chef, noting that the chefs don't have to answer any specific question if they did not want to do so. They are also free to expand into related areas that I might not have asked about. 

• How important is culinary creativity to you? Why is it important?
• What are your most significant inspirations for your culinary creativity? What makes those matters so inspiring?
• Where do you get your ideas for new recipes/dishes?
• What is your process of creating a new recipe or dish?
• Do other members of your staff assist with creating ideas for new recipes/dishes?
• How do you test new recipes/dishes?
• What is the most difficult part of culinary creativity?
• Do you ever experience “writer’s block,” an inability to be creative, and if so, how do you deal with it?
• Relate an unusual or interesting anecdote about the creation of one of your dishes.

I will be contacting some local chefs, hoping to find some who are willing to participate in this process. And if you're a chef interested in participating, feel free to contact me as well. There are no specific deadlines so please don't feel rushed. Besides answering the questions, I'll also request a photo for the article, as well as a brief bio. 

For those chefs who choose to participate, I will then highlight each chef and their inspirational answers. I hope my readers find their answers to be both interesting and informative. If you enjoy this series, or even if you don't, please post your comments here. With your feedback, I can hopefully make this project even better.

I should also give much thanks to the chefs who previously agreed to participate in this endeavor!

Chef Interviews:
Chef Peter Ungár: Part 1 & Part 2 of his Answers
Chef Matthew Barros: Part 1 & Part 2 of his Answers
Chef Vittorio Ettore: Answers
Chef Marisa Iocco: Answers
Chef Jacky Robert: Answers
Chef Shingara "Peppino" Singh: Answers
Chef Rebecca Newell: Part 1 & Part 2 of her Answers
Chef Evan Percoco: Answers
Chef Jacob Zachow: Answers
Chef Denise Baron: Answers
Chef Scott Hebert: Answers
Chef Anthony Caturano: Answers
Chef Susheela Raghavan: Answers
Chef Chris Chung: Answers
Chef Franck Iglesias: Answers
Chef Keith Pooler: Answers
Chef Matt Louis: Answers
Chef Steve Zimei: Answers
Chef Brian Poe: Answers

The Origins of the Orange Julius: Who Actually Invented It?

--West Bank Herald (LA), June 19, 1930

The history of the Orange Julius, which extends back nearly 100 years. It began with a former cigar salesman and a real estate broker. There is a connection to New England. And there was a significant embezzlement which rocked the Orange Julius company, yet it hasn't received its due attention from prior researchers on the history of Orange Julius.  

The Orange Julius is a frothy citrus drink, basically a mixture of ice, orange juice, and secret food powders. The exact recipe is a corporate secret, although you can find plenty of different recipes online to make your own Orange Julius at home. I've loved Orange Julius since I was a child, commonly buying them at local malls, and I still enjoy them, although now I have to go to certain Dairy Queen stores to buy it.  

The co-creators of the Orange Julius were Julius Fried and Willard "Bill" James Hamlin, although Hamlin often gets much more credit. Its origins extend back to around 1925 or 1926, with a variety of conflicting accounts as to the specific year. The specific details of the creation of Orange Julius weren't documented until almost 30 years later, in 1953. 

At that point, one of the creators, Julius Fried, was deceased, so we are left with only a single version of its invention. Can we accept all of the details of that version? Does it conform to the known facts? Or was it embellished, for whatever reason? We also have to consider that after 30 years, memory can fade or details can be confused. We may never know the full truth, but information concerning an embezzlement may shine a new light onto this matter. 

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Let's begin by looking into the history of Julius Fried. He was born on February 7, 1880 in Cleveland, Ohio. His mother was Mina (or Minnie) Fried, although the name of his father was listed as "Unknown" on Julius' death certificate. I'll also note that a number of modern sources refer to him as "Julius Freed", although "Fried" appears to be his actual surname.

On May 30, 1895, when Julius was 15 years old, he boldly left Ohio and moved to Butte, Montana. Why did he make this 1800+ mile move? The newspapers don't provide any insight into his decision. There doesn't seem like he had any family in Montana. It was certainly a courageous decision, to travel so far away from home at his young age. What lured him to Montana? 

The first Montana newspaper to mention Fried was the Anaconda Standard (MT), May 2, 1897, which noted that he had just returned from a 2 month visit to see his family in Cleveland.

Cigars! The Anaconda Standard (MT), January 27, 1899, reported that Julius was a cigar clerk, and he was obviously experienced enough to be called as an expert witness in a trial over trademark infringement involving a cigar. C.H. Traiser & Co., a cigar manufacturer in Boston, produced the "Harvard" cigar and alleged that Herman Woolf, a cigar manufacturer in Butte, Montana, produced the "Herman" cigar, which seemed very similar to the Harvard. Julius testified that in his expert opinion the Herman was made to imitate the Harvard, and thus deceive the public. Ultimately, and despite Fried's expert opinion, the case was decided in favor of Herman Woolf.

It was noted in the Butte Miner (MT), May 30, 1899, that Julius had resigned his position as a city salesman for Louis S. Cohn, a merchant which sold cigars and other items, to take charge of the cigar department at E.E. Galloghy & Co., a drug store. 

Another trip for Julius. The Anaconda Standard (MT), September 5, 1901, mentioned that, “Julius Fried has gone to Chicago and New York for a month’s visit.” This trip though included a stop in Ohio. The Cleveland Leader (OH), September 15, 1901, noted that Julius was visiting his parents, Mr. and Mrs. M. Fried of 481 Woodland Avenue, Cleveland.  

The Butte Daily Post (MT), August 2, 1902, reported that Julius had purchased the old Heilbronner cigar stand at 23 East Broadway.  The above advertisement, in the Anaconda Standard (MT), August 31, 1902, may be his first ad for his new venture. Fried, aged 22, now worked for himself, and he seems to have been doing well if he was financially able to purchase his own business.    

The start of gamblings problems at the cigar shop. The Anaconda Standard (MT), January 13, 1903, reported that three local merchants, including Julius, had declined to obey an edict prohibiting slot machines. Apparently, Julius had some slot machines in his cigar shop. The three merchants were charge with violating the law prohibiting gambling, although the merchants claimed that they were being discriminated against, as gambling houses were allowed to freely operate and the police were only coming down on slot machines. The merchants were released on personal recognizance, and after his release, Julius returned to his cigar shop and, in defiance, continued to operate his slot machines. 

The Butte Miner (MT), January 13, 1903, added a little more detail, noting that the slot machines were mostly played for free cigars and drinks. The merchants were upset that “nickel machine operators” were being prosecuted while gambling houses acted with impunity. The Anaconda Standard, (MT) January 14, 1903, then reported that the judge had dismissed the charges against the three merchants, and his decision was met with plenty of applause in the court room. These three were not the only merchants who were operating slot machines in Butte, but they were the only three who had resisted attempts to prohibit slot machines. 

That wasn't the end of the matter though. The Anaconda Standard, January 18, 1903, stated that the Mayor had issued an order to his brother, Police Captain Davey, to stop slot machines, despite the recent judge’s decision. Five merchants were cited this time, although Julius was not one of the five. The judge wasn't happy, and the Anaconda Standard (MT), January 20, 1903, reported that he dismissed the charges against the five merchants and declared he wouldn't punish anyone for operating a slot machine.  This would effectively end any future arrests for operating slot machines. 

Lots of free cigars! The Butte Miner (MT), March 14, 1903, related the amusing story of Fried's cigar shop and one of his customers who never seemed to lose on the slot machines. “He usually averages at least two for one for his money and it is a common occurrence for him to get five for one.” And his best win on a slot machine? “Yesterday this customer took down twenty-seven cigars for a quarter....” Superb luck!

Slot machines weren't the only gambling game at Fried's cigar shop. The Butte Miner (MT), April 3, 1903, noted that the back room of the cigar store had card tables, where the game of "slough" was played, which may be another name for bridge. It was also mentioned that "Old Nick" was in charge of the card game and had been since the cigar shop opened. It wasn't a secret that card games were being played here, and eventually the police would get involved.

From 1902-1904, there were numerous ads for Fried's cigar store, advertising the different wares he offered from canes to pipes. He even repaired pipes in his "pipe hospital."  

Fried enters the photography business. The Billings Times (MT), April 24, 1906, reported that Fried and R.H. Post were doing business in Billings, Montana under the name and style of “Post, Photographer.” Post lived in Billings, although he previously lived in Butte and that is where he probably met Fried, and was likely responsible for the bulk of the business and Fried might have primarily provided financial support.  

More details on the photography business were provided in The Billings Evening Journal (MT), April 22, 1907, which noted R.H. Post had established his photography business in Billings about a year ago. the article stated, "Mr. Post has a handsome and well appointed studio at No.321 Stapleton block and produces photos and portraits in the highest perfection of the art." It also stated, "Mr. Post is a thorough artist and by his new processes makes the most perfect likenesses possible and all of his work is truly artistic."

The Anaconda Standard (MT), May 3, 1906, mentioned that Fried was off traveling again, planning to visit Chicago and New York. This might have been a business trip considering the next news about Fried.

The Butte Daily Post (MT), November 13, 1906, mentioned that Repetti, a famous confectioner of New York, was the creator of the “finest French caramels ever placed on the market" as well as “the originator of ‘candy pebbles,’ the latest triumph of the confectioner’s art.” In Butte, Fried was now carrying Repetti's products, as shown in the above ad from the Butte Daily Post (MT), November 22, 1906.

An honor for Fried. The Butte Evening News (MT), February 5, 1907, mentioned that Fried had been proposed for membership in the Phagacytes. The article stated, “This is a great honor and he will probably make it all right.” The Independent Order of Phagacytes was a new organization of "good fellows," which was "non-sectarian, non-conformist, non-political."

More card games and some arrests! The Anaconda Standard (MT), March 2, 1908, reported that six men had been arrested for playing draw poker at Fried’s cigar store. The game was raided at about 3:30am and Fried claimed no knowledge of the game, stating he had closed up the store and gone home several hours before the police raid. However, Fried was charged with violating the gambling prohibition. 

The matter dragged on for over a year. The Missoulian (MT), May 26, 1909, stated that the judge was making gamblers quite worried. He had recently sentenced one gambler to a $1000 fine and 1 year in the penitentiary. The judge said, “…it is the time that gamblers learned there is no place for them in this community.” Subsequently, Fried decided to plead guilty and only had to pay a $100 fine. He certainly didn't want to risk a trial with that judge.  

The gambling continued. The Butte Daily Post (MT), July 25, 1911, noted that a card game was found at Fried’s second cigar shop, located on West Park St. The police raided the shop at about 1:30am and they found a large number of men playing cards and many spectators. The police also checked out Fried's Broadway shop but found nothing there. A number of men were arrested but not Fried.  

However, the Anaconda Standard (MT), April 11, 1914, mentioned that in another incident, Fried had been charged with conducting games of chance. Two weeks later, he plead guilty and paid a $100 fine. The Butte Miner (MT), July 18, 1914, the reported that 11 men had been arrested for gambling, playing poker and whist, at Fried’s shop on East Broadway.

Robbery! The Butte Miner (MT), August 10, 1914, reported that 2 men held up the poker game at Fried’s East Broadway shop. They got away with at least $4,000 in cash and jewelry.  

A slap on the wrist. The Butte Miner (MT), September 15, 1914, reported on another raid at Fried’s East Broadway shop. Fried was arrested for permitting gambling. The next day, the Butte Miner (MT), September 16, 1914, noted that Fried was only fined $1, as the men had been merely playing bridge whist for “four bits and a dollar on the side.” It was clear that Fried wasn't going to stop card games from being played at his cigar stores. 

The Butte Daily Post (MT), July 16, 1917, mentioned the sad news that Mrs. Minnie Fried, the mother of Julius, had died on July 12 in Cleveland. 

A business takeover. The Butte Miner (MT), January 19, 1919, mentioned that Julius Fried had been in the cigar and candy wholesale business since 1902. However, it was now noted that the Butte Wholesale Grocery company had taken over his business. It appears this may have only applied to Fried's wholesale business and not his retail shops.

More details were provided in the Butte Miner (MT), May 25, 1919. It was stated that Fried had been a resident of Butte for 25 years and “has been one of the leading business men of the city.” The new headquarters for his business would be at 24 West Granite St., and the business covered Montana, Idaho and Wyoming. It was also said that his firm had long been known as “The House that Quality Built” and it was also said that they might now add, “A Quarter of a Century in Butte.”

An advertisement in the Anaconda Standard (MT), February 7, 1921. 

Another legal problem. The Anaconda Standard (MT), March 31, 1921, reported on the case of W.E. Tuttle against Julius Fried for alleged false imprisonment. Tuttle was seeking $5,000 in damages and the incident followed from a ride in a hack where a pocketbook had been lost. The Butte Miner (MT), April 1, 1921, noted that the trial was held in this case. Tuttle was a taxi driver and once drove Fried and his wife. During that trip, Mrs. Fried lost her gold mesh purse and Julius accused Tuttle of taking the bag. Tuttle claimed that he had been arrested for the theft, although the police claimed he had only been taken to the police station for questioning.  

This is the first apparent mention that Julius had a wife. It's unknown for how long they had been married. According to his death certificate, his wife was named Wilmeta. 

The Anaconda Standard (MT), April 2, 1921, reported that Tuttle won the case and had been awarded $2500. However, months later, the Anaconda Standard (MT), January 4, 1922, noted that the court had recently ruled that there would be a new trial in the Tuttle case unless the plaintiff agreed to accept a greatly reduced amount, only $250 with costs. Tuttle agree to accept that amount in settlement. 

Financial difficulties. The Butte Miner (MT), February 1, 1922, reported that a petition had been filed, by an attorney representing three creditors, asking that Julius Fried be declared an involuntary bankrupt. The total outstanding bills were claimed to be $1623.50. The petitioners also claimed that Fried had committed an act of bankruptcy by paying $8 to the Mountain States Telegraph and Telephone Company in December 1921, the “company having no priority of rights over other creditors.” 

Three years ago, Fried had been said to be one of the leading business men of Butte but now he was having serious financial difficulties. What caused these problems? Had his business failed that significantly? The Butte Daily Post (MT), April 10, 1922, then reported the upcoming sale of "all stock and fixtures" of Fried by the bankruptcy trustee. 

At this point, there were no other mentions in the Montana newspapers of Julius Fried. At some point, he left Montana, eventually ending up in Los Angeles, California in 1925, but for about a three year period, it's unknown where he resided. Did he return to Cleveland for a time, to connect with his family? Did he move immediately to California? 

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And now well' briefly look at the background of W. ("Bill") James Hamlin, which was much less covered in the newspapers. The Daily News-Post (CA), June 26, 1953, stated that Hamlin had been born in New Hampshire around 1897. This is the New England connection. Hamlin eventually joined an artillery unit in World War I, and after the war was over, Hamlin chose to resettle in Los Angeles, probably in 1922, where he started selling real estate. 

Based on the evidence, I believe that in 1925, Julius Fried established an orange juice stand at 820 South Broadway in Los Angeles, which he had rented from W. James Hamlin. The earliest newspapers all seem to mention that Hamlin first met Fried in 1925, but later newspapers, mostly from the 1970s on, changed the year of their first meeting to 1926. No reason for this change was ever given. However, Fried's death certificate also seems to indicate Fried started his orange juice business in 1925. 

Why did Fried, an experienced cigar and candy salesman, decide to sell orange juice in Los Angeles? The answer seems to be elusive. He had spent about 25 years selling cigars so this was a big change of business. During the 1920s, there were numerous ads for orange juice stands as well as plenty of ads selling these businesses too. Maybe it seemed like a potentially profitable business to Fried. Or maybe Fried wanted to get involved in a healthier profession. 

At some point, likely in 1925, Hamlin stopped at Fried's stand and tasted some of the fresh orange juice. What happened next is known primarily from a single source, Hamlin. The details of their initial meetings weren't publicly mentioned until 1953, almost 30 years after their first meeting. Unfortunately, Fried died in 1935, so his version was never related in the newspapers. So, can we accept Hamlin's version as completely accurate? 

For now, we will discuss Hamlin's version, although we should retain a skeptical mind as we only have one man's version, and that wasn't provided until almost 30 years later. 

A detailed version was first provided in the Daily News Post (CA), June 25, 1953. The article noted that Hamlin (pictured above) "invented Orange Julius, the nationally famed health drink, because he didn’t like the taste of fresh orange juice.” Back in 1925, Hamlin went to Fried's orange juice, had a free drink, and didn’t like it. He asked Julius for something better but instead, Julius asked Hamlin to develop something better himself. Hamlin claimed that a week later, he returned to Julius with his own mixture to add to the orange juice. This became a hit and the new recipe remained unchanged since then.

I'll note that this article didn't even mention "Fried," the surname of Julius. His first name was mentioned, but he received no credit for the invention of Orange Julius. It was almost like his contributions had been erased.  

The Los Angeles Mirror (CA), November 16, 1953, added the detail that Hamlin had been a graduate chemist, and thus was able to develop his own food additive for the orange juice. Julius was briefly mentioned, but again, his surname wasn't stated. 

More information came in the Covina Argus (CA), December 3, 1953, although once again, the surname of Julius wasn't provided in the article. It was stated that Hamlin and Julius first met in 1926, which differs from prior articles stating it occurred in 1925. Then, it was said that Hamlin spent much time during the Spring experimenting with food additives and orange juice, a longer time period that the week previously mentioned in the June 1953 article. It certainly sounds more credible that it took at least a couple months of experimentation to come up with his food powder mixture rather than simply a week.

Finally, Hamlin ended up with a powder, a blend of seven different pure food powders. Added to the orange juice, it created a delicious, frothy drink. As to the origin of its name, the article claimed that customers would say, “Give me a glass of orange, Julius.” Hamlin then claimed, “That will be the name of the new drink!” Did Hamlin include Fried in his experimentations? Did he provide Fried ongoing samples during that Spring, to receive his input?  

The article also mentioned that Hamlin had $6800 in savings, and pooled his resources with another unnamed man (who will later know as William Larkin), offering to back Julius with the new drink. It was also said that Hamlin would put up a sign on the sidewalk of “a red devil standing in front of a big orange, and there was one word across the front: Julius.”

It would also later be claimed that Fried, when he just operated his orange juice stand, only had average daily sales of $20, but after the addition of Hamlin's food powder mix, average daily sales increased to $100.

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Let's go back in time now, to the latter half of the 1920s, to seek more information about the documented history of the Orange Julius. 

Maybe the first documented reference to Orange Julius was in the San Bernardino Sun (CA), May 15, 1926. There was an advertisement for the Market Spot, and it noted that their sandwich shop sold Orange Julius, a "new drink" which was "wonderfully refreshing." 

In 1926, articles of incorporation, #35447, were filed in Los Angeles for the “General Citrus Stores Company” and the officers were listed as J. Fried, W.A. Larkins and A.H. Anderson. This corporation would eventually start selling Orange Julius franchises. It's very interesting that Hamlin was not listed as a part of this corporation. Why is that the case? Larkins would be involved with the corporation for a number of years, but I couldn't find anything else about A.H. Anderson. This was the only mention I found of his involvement. He may have sold off his interests in the corporation at an early date. 

A trademark for "Julius, a Devilish Good Drink," was later filed and it was mentioned that this mark was first used commercially on September 1, 1926.  

Based on this information, it seems logical that Fried and Hamlin first met in 1925 rather than in 1926. First, it's unknown for how long Fried had been operating his orange juice stand before Hamlin stopped by to taste it. It could have easily been a few months, if not longer. Second, then Hamlin had to spend time experimenting, to create his food powder mixture, which might have taken a few months. 

Next, Hamlin had to convince Fried to sell the new product to his customers, and then Fried had to determine whether his customers would enjoy the new drink or not. How much time did Fried spend in testing the new drink on his customers? Once Fried was convinced the new drink could be successful, Hamlin and Larkins had to convince and negotiate with Fried to partner together to sell the new drink. How long did negotiations last? 

Finally, we see that Orange Julius had already spread outside of Los Angeles by May 1926. Overall, it would have been near impossible to have accomplished all of the above in the first four months of 1926.  It makes far more sense that the entire process started sometime in 1925.

Maybe the first advertisement for Orange Julius was published in the Los Angeles Evening Herald (CA), July 22, 1927. The ad was for the Grand Opening of the Hill Street Terminal Market, and it noted Orange Julius was sold at Stall C-1-B, mentioning it was "A Choice, Refreshing Beverage."

The Arizona Republic (AZA), July 27, 1927, stated that the General Citrus Realty Company of Las Vegas, Nevada, had filed incorporation papers for the Citrus Company Inc. The capital stock was $20,000, divided into shares of $100. The officers were Julius Fried, William A. Larkins, and James Hamlin. This is the first documented mention I found concerning Hamlin and his connection to Orange Julius.

The Arizona Republic (AZ), July 31, 1927, reported that a new citrus drink stand had been constructed, leased from Central Citrus corp. of Los Angeles (which is an error and should have said "General Citrus"). “The stands are used in the handling of a patented citrus health drink known as Orange Julius.” This is the first mention that Orange Julius was a "health drink." More franchises were contemplated for Dallas, Fort Worth, Houston and New Orleans.  

There was a For Sale advertisement in the San Diego Union & Daily Bee (CA), August 26, 1927, which offered an "Orange juice business" and the price included the "Orange Julius Formula." 

The Sacramento Bee (CA), August 27, 1927, mentioned that the city had acquired a franchise from the General Citrus Corp of Los Angeles to distribute “Julius” drinks. 

19 Orange Julius stands! The Fresno Bee (CA), December 5, 1927, noted that an Orange Julius stand was going to open in Fresno. This would be the 19th location of the Orange Julis chain, headquartered in Los Angeles, which had spread across California, Arizona, Texas, Alabama, and Louisiana. The article also quoted W.A. Larkins, “A feature of the company’s business is that each drink is prepared on the counter as ordered and a patented preparation is used,…”

The Times-Picayune (LA), December 28, 1927, mentioned that the General Citrus Corp. of Los Angeles was the manufacturer of Orange Julius and other citrus fruit drinks. The New Orleans States (LA), January 1, 1928, noted that the General Citrus Corp. of Los Angeles had leased a building in New Orleans to sell Orange Julius.  

The devil appears! The Fresno Morning Republican (CA), January 14, 1928, reported that Julius Fried would open his new Orange Julius stand at 1055 Fulton Street. The article also stated that, “the holders of little yellow cards with a fiery red devil, will be served with Fresno’s latest drink, ‘Orange Julius.’”

A trademark lawsuit! The Arizona Republic (AZ), May 17, 1928, mentioned that the General Citrus corp had filed with the patent office on October 23, 1926 and which was registered on May 31, 1927. They were now bringing a suit for infringement of a registered trademark against M. & W. Root Beer Stores, Inc. of Florida, and John J. Walters, makers of “Orange Demon.” alleged to be described on the labels as a “devilish good drink.”  

A hearing was held on the matter in September 1928, and the final adjudication was reported in the Arizona Republic (AZ), May 29, 1929. The judge ordered a perpetual injunction against M. & W. Root Beer Stores, Inc. and John J. Walters, from using trade name “Orange Demon” or using any other trademark connected to Orange Julius.

The Atlanta Constitution (GA), June 16, 1928, stated that the General Citrus Realty company of Los Angeles now operated 25 patented Orange Julius establishments under the name of General Citrus Stores company.

The Atlanta Journal (GA), June 17, 1928, reported that W.J. Hamlin was the president and manager of the General Citrus Realty Company of Los Angeles. There were a number of corporate entities connected to Orange Julius, and trying to differentiate between all of them is difficult. 

The Ventura County Star (CA), July 10, 1928, published this Orange Julius ad, which stated, “The most novel drink served at Doty’s new fountain. It’s the same drink you get at the finest fountains in Los Angeles.”

The New Orleans States (LA), February 5, 1929, posted an ad for the second location of an Orange Julius stand in New Orleans. It was noted that Orange Julius was, “The Health Drink of the Nation.” It was also said that they used Perfection Brand Louisiana Oranges and that “All fruit juice is extracted before your eyes as it is served.” Finally, it was mentioned that this was the 27th location in the country. 

The Fort Worth Star-Telegram (TX), July 16, 1929, published this ad, offering three free drinks of Orange Julius, which was referred to as “The Health Drink of the Nation.” The ad also stated that “Orange Julius is a health drink of new and unusual health qualities and taste.” None of these ads though provided the specific reasons why Orange Julius was so healthy. 

Orange Julius opened in New York City! The Morning Call (PA), August 29, 1929, reported that the first Orange Julius stand in Manhattan, and probably the East, had now opened on the corner of Broadway and Forty-Sixth St. The Wisconsin State Journal (WI), September 10, 1929, also reported that the new Orange Julius stand in Manhattan, which charged 10 cents for a drink, had attracted 11,425 patrons during its first week. In todays dollars, that would be the equivalent of about $21,000.  

The Los Angeles Times (CA), September 17, 1929, noted some changes in the General Citrus Stores Company as the officers were now Julius Fried, William A. Larkins, and W. James Hamlin. The corporation had a capital of 1000 shares at a $100 par value. In addition, the corporate paperwork for the Orange Julius Realty Co. was filed on September 20, 1929. 

A Orange Julius cocktail? The New York Evening Journal (NY), September 19, 1929, briefly mentioned, “That new Orange Julius drink is getting great play from Times Square topes. Mixed with gin it makes swell Alexanders.”

The San Bernadino County Sun (CA), September 21, 1929, posted the above ad, which stated, “Orange Julius is a new health drink made from pure orange juice, cracked ice and vanilla powder. It is absolutely non-fattening and a delightfully refreshing drink.”

The first unofficial recipe for Orange Julius. The Seattle Post-Intelligencer (WA), November 1, 1929, printed the above recipe, which required orange juice, sugar, milk and egg. However, I'll note that the recipe didn't include cracked ice, and certainly doesn't have all of the ingredients in the official Orange Julius drinks. It's interesting though that the Orange Julius was so popular that people wanted to make it at home.

The Arizona Republic (AZ), June 3, 1930, reported that the General Citrus Realty had changed its name to the Orange Julius Realty company. The directors included Julius Fried, W. James Hamlin and C.N. Magnuson, all of Los Angeles. The Richmond Times-Dispatch (VA), July 23, 1930, then added that the Orange Julius Realty Company, a Nevada corporation, was created “To deal in real estate, merchandise of all kinds and stocks and bonds.” Corporate paperwork for the Orange Julius Franchise Syndicate, Ltd. was filed on October 14, 1930. 

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Then there was a significant rift in the partnership of Fried and Hamlin, one which I haven't seen previously detailed in any of the major articles about the history of Orange Julius. And it's this rift which might have impacted the origin story of Orange Julius, leading to Julius Fried's contributions being largely erased from the story. 

The case of Jacobs v. the State Bar, 219 Cal. 59 (Cal. 1933), which was decided on September 23, 1933 in the Supreme Court of California, involved a review of a recommendation from the State Bar which called for the suspension of the petitioner, Attorney Jacobs, from the practice of law for a period of three years. However, the underlying matter in this case involved Fried, Hamlin and Orange Julius.

Attorney Jacobs had been practicing law in Los Angeles since 1907. Julius Fried and Miss Wilmetta Crawford brought forward a complaint against Jacobs, with "charges of conversion and misappropriation of funds; for knowingly making a false return on a garnishment, and upon two other charges, including one of unethical conduct in revealing to a third party information prejudicial to his client." 

As an aside, we know Fried was married in 1921, although the name of his wife was not provided. This legal case seems to indicate that Wilmetta was single, although Fried's death certificate in 1935 listed her as his wife. Was Wilmetta actually his second wife? 

In 1931, it was also noted that Fried and Hamlin were the two-thirds and one-third owners, respectively, of the stock in Orange Julius, Ltd., and its corporate subsidiaries. Fried was also the president while Jacobs had been the attorney for the corporation. If Hamlin had been the primary inventor of Orange Julius, then why did Fried own the majority interest of stock in the corporation? Why wasn't it at least a 50/50 split? Is it possible that Fried played a larger role in the invention of Orange Julius than was later claimed in the 1950s?

Fried was also responsible for collecting the receipts from all of the Orange Julius stands in Los Angeles. In June, 1931, for some reason, Hamlin started to suspect that Fried was engaging in nefarious activities, essentially embezzlement of up to $100,000, equivalent to about $2,000,000 in today's dollars. Quite a huge amount of theft. It doesn't appear that Fried contested this accusation, so it's likely he had actually engaged in some level of embezzlement.

In response to the accusation, Fried resigned as President and also handed over all of his stock to Hamlin, disengaging himself from the corporation. However, Hamlin allowed him to remain as an employee, still desirous of his help. Fried must have been an excellent salesman, or had connections that benefited Hamlin. Fried would continue as an employee for four years, until his death in 1935.

This embezzlement probably, and naturally, angered Hamlin, and might have later colored his version of the origin story of Orange Julius, causing him to significantly reduce any contribution from Fried. However, Fried's nefarious actions continued, which probably added fuel to the fire, giving more incentive to Hamlin to largely omit Fried from the origin of Orange Julius.

Later that year, Fried hired Attorney Jacobs to try to buy back his stock anonymously, not wanting Jacobs to reveal his identity to Hamlin. After some negotiations, Hamlin agreed to a purchase price of $25,000, requiring an initial cash payment of $15,000. Fried had already given Jacobs $500, and then provided him the rest, paying him with a $10,000 bill, four $1,000 bills and five $100 bills.

When's the last time you heard of someone using a $10,000 bill or even a $1,000 bill? On the $10,000 bill, which was first printed in 1918, was Salmon P. Chase, the Secretary of the Treasury under Abraham Lincoln, and a chief justice of the U.S. Supreme Court. The original $1,000 bill featured Alexander Hamilton but was eventually replaced with President Grover Cleveland. Both bills were discontinued in 1969, when the largest denomination bill that was allowed in circulation was a $100 bill.

Soon thereafter making this payment, the Orange Julius corporation served Jacobs with an attachment as part of an action against Fried. Hamlin had previously hired detectives and learned that Fried was the person trying to anonymously purchase the stock. Despite the attachment, Fried somehow convinced Jacobs to return $7500 of his money back to him. 

Jacobs didn't answer the first attachment, so a second attachment or garnishment was then served on him. Jacobs finally turned over $7000 to the sheriff in response to the attachment, and that money was subsequently split between Hamlin and Fried, a settlement of the case Hamlin had filed against Fried. And obviously, Fried couldn't purchase any of the Orange Julius stock. Fried's attempt to anonymously buy the stock, on top of the embezzlement, probably angered Hamlin even more, giving him more incentive to write Fried out of the Orange Julius story.

Attorney Jacobs's three year suspension was upheld by the Supreme Court of California.

************

Legal and financial difficulties. The San Antonio Light (TX), October 2, 1931, noted that a suit had been brought by Central Building of San Antonio, Inc. against the Orange Julius Realty Co, et al, for a matter concerning a lease. The plaintiff would ultimately prevail on their suit for rent. Then, the New Orleans Item (LA), March 18, 1932, reported that the contents of an Orange Julius establishment at 736 Canal St. were to be sold at auction in the matter of Porkorny Development Company, Inc. vs Orange Julius Realty Co.

The Los Angeles Examiner (CA), December 21, 1932, reported that involuntary bankruptcy proceedings had been instituted by 3 creditors against the Orange Julius Realty Company (also known as Orange Julius Corporation and Orange Julius Ltd.) due to their outstanding claims totaling $2550. This matter may have been settled as there weren't any follow-up articles in the newspapers. 

Some of these matters were restricted to the individual franchisees, while the Los Angeles proceedings involved the main company.  

************

On April 27, 1935, at age 55, Julius Fried passed away, due to “Sclerosis of the coronary arteries of the heart.” His death certificate indicated that he had lived at 1536 Cambria, Los Angeles, and had been married to Wilmeta Fried. His trade was listed his trade as the Owner of a Soft Drink Stand, and he had spent 10 years in this occupation, up until the time of his death. His father's name was listed as unknown and his mother's name was listed as Mina. Although there was a brief mention of his death in the newspapers, there apparently wasn't a more detailed obituary, and there was no mention of his connection to the Orange Julius. In some respects, he died in obscurity. 

The Orange Julius website does pay homage to Julius, although they get his surname incorrect, referring to him as "Freed."

The Daily News Post (CA), June 25, 1953, provided some information on the extent of the Orange Julius franchise and its value. It was noted that, “Nothing but fresh orange juice and pure food powder is used in making the highly-secret concoction.” The company started in 1925 and in three and a half years, their total sales had reached over $2,000,000. Pictured above is the new Orange Julius store in Monrovia, California, the 92nd franchise. The average franchise could be expected to earn about $80,000 a year. Orange Julius even sold well in winter, and Hamlin stated that, “In Boston one winter we did a bigger business than in Los Angeles and on a Jan. 2 New Yorkers bought 6000 Orange Juliuses in a single day.” 

The article also mentioned that the Orange Julius stand in New York City paid $2,000 a month in rent. In addition, the Orange Julius stand at Seventh and Broadway in Los Angeles, which had been the 20th franchise, had just sold its 13th millionth Orange Julius!  

Six months later, the Covina Argus (CA), December 3, 1953, reported that there were now 104 Orange Julius stores, grossing nearly $4,000,000. It was also mentioned that shortly before the market crash of 1929, Hamlin had been offered $2,000,000 for the Orange Julius trademark but he refused. It wasn't mentioned that Julius Fried was actually the majority shareholder of the Orange Julius corporation at that time, so he was probably the one who actually refused the two million offer. Hamlin may have agreed with Fried, but Fried had the control of that decision. And there were older newspaper articles that mentioned Fried was the one to refuse the two million offer. 

In September 1967, Hamlin chose to retire and sold the Orange Julius company to International Industries, Inc., which grew the franchise to about 745 units. In 1985, Orange Julius was then sold to the Custom Creamery Systems, and only two years later, it was sold again, to International Dairy Queen. Orange Julius can still be found in some Dairy Queen locations.

On May 29, 1987, W. James Hamlin passed away at the age of 90. He was survived by a daughter, Judy Roach, and three grandsons. A number of newspapers, all across the country, printed his obituary, noting him as the creator of the Orange Julius. Julius Fried received very little credit, if any, in these obituaries. 

However, what's the truth? Did Julius Fried play a larger role in the creation of the Orange Julius? We will probably never know the truth but we have reason to be skeptical of Hamlin's claims. We only have a single version of the origin story, told by Hamlin, and that version is first mentioned about 30 years after the its invention. There are also discrepancies in the various origin stories, which cast additional skepticism on the tale. And if Hamlin was so instrumental in the creation of Orange Julius, then why was Fried made the President and majority stock holder of the corporation? 

Now I'm thirsty for a cold, frothy Orange Julius.

Peka: Signature Dish of Dalmatia

In an outside oven, underneath the branches and buried under ashes and embers, is a Peka, a domed metal "bell" or lid that is covering a large metal pan. Within that pan, you can slow cook meat, seafood, vegetables, fruits, and plenty of other ingredients, dependent on your preferences. This is a historic tradition in the Dalmatian region of Croatia, and the meal itself is also commonly referred to as a Peka, though it is also known by other terms, including ispod čripnje, šač, lopiž or pokrivac.

During my time in Croatia, I was fortunate enough to experience a Peka and what a superb experience. Our guide in Croatia, Mirena Bagur, brought us to the home of her uncle, Ante Bagur (pictured above), who cooked the Peka for us. Ante had prepared us another dinner during our trip, so we already knew he was a talented cook, making us even more eager to experience the Peka. We were treated like family, embraced with the genuine warmness of Ante's hospitality.

We began our evening with a traditional Rakija welcoming, a tasting of Croatian brandy. Ante had created his own Rakija, including Herbal, Walnut and Sour Cherry. All three were fairly smooth, with intriguing tastes, and my favorite was the herbal, which showed a nice complexity of flavor. The walnut also had an excellent nuttiness to it, while the sour cherry was tart and not overly sweet.

Traditionally, a Peka is cooked in a fireplace, and Ante has one outside his home. Historically, the basic concept of the Peka extends back at least 3000 years (and maybe as far back as 5,000 years), to the late Bronze Age, when the bell or lid was made of clay. At that time, the food would have been placed directly onto the hearth and then covered with the lid. Over the centuries, the food would eventually be placed into a pan, and then covered by the lid. Hot coals and embers would be placed upon the lid, allowing the food beneath to slowly cook over the course of about two to three hours.

Throughout the centuries, this cooking method has remained popular and relatively unchanged. The biggest innovation would be due to the influence of the Ottoman Empire, who introduced iron Peka, rather than the usual clay lids. The iron lids proved much more popular and continue to be used even today. When you experience a Peka, it is as if you are experiencing a slice of history, thousands of year old. The Peka is also versatile, allowing you to prepare a diverse selection of ingredients, dependent on your preferences. You could easily experience a different Peka every week for a year, each time trying a different combination of ingredients.

"..., for the Croatians of every degree are an amiable, open-hearted, open-handed people, who give to hospitality a very high place among the cardinal virtues and take a sincere pleasure in exercising it."
--The Times (London), August 9, 1884

Peka can be found at some Croatian restaurants, though you might have to order it the day before. However, I think it's better experienced at someone's home because there is an important social element as well. For example, while we waited for Ante's Peka to be ready, we had time to sip wine, talk, visit Ante's garden, eat some local cheese, and simply savor the evening. It isn't quite the same at a restaurant. The excellent hospitality of a Croatian home enhances the experience of the Peka.

Finally, the big reveal, as the Peka is ready to be uncovered.

Once Ante removed the Peka from atop the large pan beneath it, you could see all the alluring ingredients. The main ingredient was octopus, and there was also potatoes, rice, eggplant, apples, olive oil, chili pepper, and herbs from his garden. Basically, any type of protein can be cooked in a Peka, from lamb to chicken, veal to fish. The Peka cooked for about two hours, which you might think wasn't long enough for the octopus, but it proved to be perfect.

My plate was rather full, but I easy devoured it and got even more. The food was so intensely flavorful, the delectable juices having soaked in everything. The octopus might have been the most tender that I've ever eaten, and every piece of it was equally as tender. Even if you thought you didn't like octopus, I think this might have changed your mind. It was such a hearty dinner, yet it made you crave more, and I certainly wasn't the only one who had seconds. With our dinner, we enjoyed a Croatian Plavac Mali and an Italian Aglianico, and both reds actually worked well with the Peka. Yes, some seafood does work well with red wine! This was easily one of my favorite meals while I was in Croatia.

If you'd like to make your own Peka at home, then you could always travel to Croatia and buy one at a local market or shop. There is also a company, Culinary Croatia, which sells two different-sized Pekas and ships them to anywhere in the world. I don't know much about this company, except what I've read online about them.

And if you ever get invited to a Peka dinner, just say yes.

Rant: Agricultural Illiteracy & Chocolate Milk Ignorance

How now, brown cow! And thanks for your chocolate milk. 

Do you know the source of chocolate milk? Does it come from brown cows? Some people seem to think so. In April, the Innovation Center for U.S. Dairy conducted a survey of 1000 adult Americans, asking them a series of questions concerning milk. According the results of this study, 7% of adult Americans, about 16.4 million, believe that chocolate milk comes from brown cows!  And to make matters even worse, 48% of the survey respondents weren't sure where chocolate milk comes from.

This should be such a simple issue but it seems to boggle many Americans. It is agricultural illiteracy, food ignorance, indicating a significant disconnect between the sources of the food we eat and what we find on our plate. Other studies, dealing with different types of food, have also indicated such ignorance, such as numerous Americans not realizing that hamburger comes from beef. For too many Americans, all they seem to care about is eating and drinking, without any type of interest in where those foods and drinks originate. As such, they often don't care whether the ingredients are local or not, whether they come from large, factory farms or small, family-owned operations.

This ignorance of food origins can have a substantial impact in a myriad of ways. First, it ignores issues of sustainability because if you don't know or don't care about the origins of your food, then you aren't paying attention to sustainability issues. For example, if you just buy and eat shrimp, without any question as to its origin, you could be eating shrimp that is raised unsustainably. If you don't know that your pork is coming from some huge, factory farm, you may not realize how much pollution is generated by that farm.

Second, you probably don't understand the nature of food pricing, especially at restaurants. For example, if you think all hamburger is the same, that the origin doesn't matter, then you can't understand why some places charge $5 for a hamburger and other spots charge $15 or more. You'll complain that the later spot is way over priced, despite the fact they may be using a higher quality hamburger, from a local farm, and also using higher quality toppings.  

Third, you probably don't really know what you are ingesting. If you think chocolate milk comes from brown cows, then you're likely to consider chocolate milk to be a natural product, when it actually has been flavored with various ingredients, which will vary from chocolate milk to chocolate milk. What you ingest is very important to your health, and you should properly understand the origins and nature of your food.

I could go on and on about the other reasons you should better understand the sources and origins of your food and drink. You need to spend a little time educating yourself about food. The advantages and benefits to doing so are myriad. With more information, you'll eat and drink better. And who doesn't want to do that? You can wallow in your ignorance if you so desire, but the quality of your life would improve with some knowledge.

Rant: Let's Eliminate Guilty Pleasures

                             GUILT

Guilt is "feeling bad because you have done something bad or wrong" and it's time to eliminate some of the guilt in our lives. We need to eliminate that guilt which is actually unnecessary though we have been programmed to think we are doing something wrong. I'm talking about guilty pleasures and specifically as they concern food.

Though I've thought of this issue before, it came to the forefront again recently when I saw fellow food writer Marc, of Boston's Hidden Restaurants, post an updated list, a slideshow, of Twelve Guilty Pleasures from Boston-Area and New England Restaurants. The list includes items such as a breakfast pizza, roast beef sandwich, lobster pot pie and chicken parmigiana calzone. The question that came to my mind was: Should anyone feel guilty for eating any of these dishes? I bet Marc didn't actually feel guilty about any of those dishes.

According to the Merriam Webster online dictionary, a guilty pleasure is defined as "something pleasurable that induces a usually minor feeling of guilt." It is clear that the twelve dishes listed by Marc would bring pleasure to many people. Many look appealing to me and I've certainly greatly enjoyed similar dishes. However, should he or anyone else for that matter feel guilt or shame for enjoying them?

I don't think so. If they taste good, if they bring you pleasure, then you should feel good about eating those foods. Just because other people might not agree with you, that should not be a sufficient reason for you to feel guilt. Just because the dishes might not be the healthiest, that too is not a sufficient reason to feel guilty.  Don't let the opinions of others indicate which foods are acceptable and which should cause guilt.

You should never feel guilty for enjoying a specific dish if it brings you pleasure. As such, there is no reason to have a list of "guilty pleasures." Such lists need to be eliminated and we should instead share lists of those foods which give us pleasure, without any taint of guilt or shame. In this case, guilt is a negative emotion which needs to be eliminated.

The next time someone asks you which foods are your guilty pleasures, tell them you aren't guilty about anything you eat.

Rant: Eating With Your Ears

What might entice you to try a new food? Or turn you off from trying it?

Though tasting a new dish is the only way to know whether you actually enjoy it or not, you still have to get to that point in the first place. It is not enough that a dish tastes delicious. There are numerous other factors which might prevent a potential diner from tasting a new item. For example, looking at a new dish, you might find it appealing or not. Presentation can be very important. Does it look like a plate of sludge or a piece of art? Your nose might also turn you onto a dish, as its enticing aromas caress your nostrils. Or it might smell like something rancid meaning you will push the dish away.

Were you aware that your ears also play a part in what dishes you will or will not taste?

".., but often farmers and distributors don’t realize how much a bad name can be a roadblock to public acceptance . A name gives a food its identity and meaning. Before people taste it, smell it, or pick it up, they hear the name and make a quick calculation whether it sounds tasty or not."
--The Tastemakers: Why We're Crazy for Cupcakes but Fed Up with Fondue by David Sax

The simple name of a food can play a major role in its acceptance or not. The name needs to sound appealing, to sound delicious. If the name sounds too strange or off putting, then there are plenty of people who will avoid it. It may seem silly that people won't try a food just because of its name, but it is the truth. And there is some science behind this matter as well.

".., successful food names whip up an instantaneous expectation of how the food will taste by stimulating neural network associations in the brain—basically connecting the dots between memories, images, and sensations to create an idea of what that food will be like before you even see it."
--The Tastemakers

Let's consider some examples. Back in 1978, "canola" oil was named, using a mashup of "Canadian" and "oil." Why was that done? Well, the oil was developed from a new strain of rapeseed but that word would have brought with it too many negative emotions. So, a change was desired and ultimately they chose canola, and its popularity remains high. I have written previously about the Patagonian Toothfish, which Americans know as Chilean Sea Bass. It was thought Americans wouldn't find "Toothfish" appealing, so an enterprising fish monger decided to rename it for an American audience. That is also why some restaurants and fish mongers refer to Sable Fish as Butter Fish, thinking the later term is more appealing. Consumers are also more likely to try a dish of sweetbreads rather if they were called thymus glands.

What food have you shied away from tasting merely because you dislike its name? Are there foods you think should be renamed so they would appeal to more people?

Rant: Lazy Food Writers

“The food media as a whole is generally lazy,” remarked Joshua Ozersky, a food writer for Esquire and others and who is no fan of cupcakes. “There’s very few people in the food media that really have their own tastes and trust their own tastes. Generally most of them are followers. That’s why the food industry is dominated by trends. If you call something a trend, especially if you’re an editor, then it artificially becomes that. . . . There’s a group-think aspect."
--The Tastemakers: Why We're Crazy for Cupcakes but Fed Up with Fondue by David Sax

I have to agree that there is a significant portion of food writers who are lazy, choosing to write mostly about current trends rather than spending the time to write something more original. How many times do you really need to read another cupcake or cronut story? Put yourself in the place of the reader and ask yourself if you want to read another cupcake or cronut article. Do you find it exciting to read about the newest place selling their version of cronuts?

When a new trend arrives, many food writers race to write about it, though often their stories are little different from the dozens of other stories out there. They think that is what their readers want to know about, despite the fact those readers have seen similar articles in many other places. I could even understand if the writers found a special and unique angle on these trends, but that is so rarely the case. These food writers take the easy route, penning shallow articles which are eminently forgettable.

This needs to change.

We need to see more food writers taking the time to research more unique stories, to write about matters that few other people are writing about. That applies to other writers as well, such as wine writers. Stop copying the same, tired old story ideas and trends that everyone else is writing about. Dare to be more original, to pioneer a path that few have traveled before. Yes, it will take more time and effort to walk this road, but ultimately it is more fulfilling, and will make your work more memorable.

Rather than write another cupcake story, try penning an article about Peruvian restaurants. Instead of discussing the newest cronut incarnation, consider writing a post about the benefits of eating rabbit. There are tons of food and wine topics out there which are worthy of coverage, and which few writers have addressed. Leave the newest trend for some lazy writer, whose article will be read and forgotten by the next day. Compose something more original which people may read and then remember for some time to come.

Will you step forward and try to become a better writer?

Once A Critic, Always a Critic

Is being a restaurant critic the best job in the world? When I meet someone new and tell them that I write about food and wine, they often respond by telling me I am a lucky person to have such a great job. They want to hear the details, to know the names of my favorite restaurants and wines. They want to hear about my best and worst meals. Yes, I love what I do but, like any job, it is not perfect. And most restaurant reviewers would likely agree.

At the New England Food Show (NEFS), I attended an interesting panel, put on by the Massachusetts Restaurant Association, called Once A Critic, Always a Critic. The discussion dealt with: "What makes a great restaurant? Where do they usually make mistakes? What are new trends in dining (and what trends should end)? Join some of Boston’s most respected and influential food writers and critics for an open discussion about the restaurant industry in the Hub and as a whole. In this insightful and entertaining conversation, writers will share personal anecdotes and discuss their best and worst experiences (on and off the job), pet peeves, what always impresses them, and,favorite new local restaurants, and what keeps them coming back for more."

Moderated by Nicole Russo, Executive Vice President of 451 Marketing, the panel participants included (as pictured above): Mat Schaffer, a former Boston Herald restaurant critic and now the principal of Mat Schaffer Consulting, Jolyon Helterman, an Independent Writer & Editing Professional, and Amy Traverso, Senior Editor, lifestyle of Yankee Magazine. Nicole asked the panelists a series of questions, and then there was a time for questions from the audience. The panel only lasted an hour though could have easily gone for twice that length.

Please note that I am paraphrasing the responses of the panelists.

Is being a restaurant critic the best job in the world?
Amy: Yes, is is an amazing way to make a living.
Jolyon: There are beauty hazards and it is hard to keep the weight off
Mat: It can be the best job but still lots of work is involved. He had to eat out 5-6 times per week and had to be in mood for whatever restaurant cuisine his editor assigned to him that week. He used to eat at a restaurant, anonymously, 2-3 times and order lots of food. After quitting his job as a critic, he lost about 30 pounds. He notes that a restaurant critic must be objective, honest, fair and possess a professional attitude.

What type of feedback have you received from your reviews?
Amy: She related an anecdote about a hotel which was upset that it did not receive a magazine award. They bundled up copies of the magazine in a ttrash bag and delivered it to her office.
Jolyon: He mentioned that he has not written about some negative things he has encountered at restaurants as he felt it would not be fair to the restaurant, such as finding chewed gum in a dish.
Mat: He has received plenty of negative feedback from his critical reviews, from mass emails to profantity laced diatribes.

Where do restaurants make their biggest mistakes?
Amy: She is very sensitive to sound issues. Also thinks service is very important.
Jolyon: There is too much fancy plating at casual dining spots.
Mat: The "restaurant business is all about expectations" and they must meet or exceed them. He has little issue with noise but hates misspelled menus.

What are some of your "go to" restaurants outside of reviews?
Amy: As she has a child, she now goes most often to casual spot. She really enjoys Area 4, Sofra, Puritan, Island Creek, and Marliave.
Jolyon: He searches for a perfect vibe, even if all of the food is not so good. Maybe a place does a great fried chicken but the rest of their menu is merely average. Also likes sitting at the bar. He enjoys Myers + Chang, Coppa, Belly Bar, Westbridge, and Erbaluce.
Mat: He likes a number of places in Chinatown, such as Montien, China King, and some Hot Pot spots. He thinks that the best restaurant in the Boston area is Salts and that Clio is another top notch place. He also enjoys Stella's in the South End.

What are some current restaurant trends?
Amy: Experimental business models such as popups, underground restaurants, and food trucks. She likes the new restaurant Asta which only offers three prix fixes each night and there is no ala carte menu. She also likes to see old style recipes brought back, kind of retro for traditional dishes.
Jolyon: He likes the pre-order big dinners, like pig roasts, which become more of an event than just a dinner.
Mat: Cocktail culture, farm to table, other nationality cuisines.

How does the Boston dining scene compare to other cities?
Jolyon: He likes Boston but feels that Portland, Oregon and Seattle are kicking our butts. Much of that is due to the issue of liquor licenses as it is so tough for new restaurants in Boston to obtain them. That acts as a significant obstacle to potential new places.
Mat: He feels the Boston culinary scene is not as big as some other cities and that we lack sufficient resources to support many more restaurants. He is proud of our restaurants, feeling we have come a long way but that we still have a long way to go.

Who are some young chefs to watch?
Jolyon: Should keep an eye on the Chefs de cuisine who are working under the big name chefs.
Mat: Will Gilson and Louis DiBiccari

How has food writing changed in recent years?
Amy: Critics have been forced to review restaurants earlier. Used to wait 4 months but now only 2. A great restaurant review should present a historical/cultural context, and almost be like an anthropological study.
Jolyon: Immediate feedback. One of the biggest problem is a lack of calibration, where some writers let one small slight take over their entire review, rather than giving each element its proper proportional credit.
Mat: For bloggers and online writers, there often is no editor to keep them honest.

I asked them a question on whether restaurant critics should address drink programs in their reviews.
All of them agreed it was necessary and recommended critics gain wine/alcohol knowledge. They also mentioned there were three possible reasons why a review might not include coverage of drinks programs. First, it might be the fault of the critic. Second, it might be the fault of the restaurant which fails to emphasize its drinks program. Third, it could be due to editorial cuts in the review.

A few additional comments of note.
Amy stated some advice for writers. "The more specific your pitch the better."
It is hard to get attention from restaurant critics for a long term client. The new restaurants seemd to get all the attention.
It also seems hard for restaurants outside of the Boston area, such as in the suburbs, to get restaurant reviews.

Glenmorangie Distillery: The Gateway Scotch

“There is no such thing as a bad whisky. Some whiskies just happen to be better than others.”
--William Faulkner

It is easy to find wine dinners but spirit-paired dinners are still a rarity, despite the fact that high quality, artisan spirits are now a hot category. Whiskey is seeing a resurgence, partially due to the emergence of flavored whiskey but also because the overall quality of whiskey seems to be improving as well. The relatively new practice of double maturation, finishing the aging of whiskey in a second type of barrel (often a wine barrel), has also helped increase its popularity. This double maturation can add some intriguing and appealing flavors to the whiskey.

Whiskey should be more than a spirit simply for an apertif or an after-dinner drink. Whiskey can pair well with food and more chefs need to avail themselves of such an opportunity. One local chef picked up that gauntlet, creating a menu paired with five scotches, and he succeeded in designing a well crafted menu that paired very well with the various scotches.

I recently attended, as a media guest, a Glenmorangie Scotch dinner at Avila Modern Mediterranean restaurant in Boston. George Kalliavas, John Carey and Danielle Keating of Martignetti Companies, the Moet Hennessey division, presided over the dinner and Eamon Keating, from the Boston Wine Exchange was also present, taking orders for the scotch. It was a fun and educational dinner, showcasing the versatility and quality of the Glenmorangie scotch portfolio.

The Glenmorangie Distillery is located north of Inverness, about half a mile from Tain, in the Highlands of Scotland and it is the smallest distillery in the Highlands. It was founded in 1843 by a farmer, William Matheson, who bought a couple of ex-gin stills in England to start producing scotch. These stills were over 16 feet tall, the tallest in Scotland, and the distillery now possess 24 stills. The height provides a higher distillate, which ends up being lighter and smoother than some smaller stills. The distillery is now owned by Moet Hennessey.

Glenmorangie possesses their own water source, the Tarlogie Springs, including approximately 100 acres around it, to ensure the purity and quality of their water. Their barley is sourced only from Scotland. It is important to realize that the oak barrel is one of the most significant aspects of whiskey production, providing 60%-70% of the flavor and all of the color. Glenmorangie contracts with loggers in the Ozark Mountains for American white oak and then have barrels constructed from the finest wood. They then lend the barrels to two American bourbon and whiskey distilleries for aging. After the barrels are used, they are then disassembled and sent to Scotland, to be reassembled and used to age Glenmorangie. They only use their barrels twice, as opposed to some other distilleries which may use them five or six times.

The Master Distiller at Glenmorangie is Dr. Bill Lumsden, a pioneer in the use of double maturation and the distillery is also well known for its experimentation. Their tagline is "unnecessarily well made," and it is my experience that they produce high quality scotch, with a diverse flavor profile. George stated that "Glenmorangie is a gateway drug to single malt scotch."  It is a lighter, ethereal, and layered scotch which is more consumer friendly than some other scotches, especially the peaty versions. Yet is is far from simple, indicating the complexity and flavors possible within single malt scotch. In addition, it is very food friendly, making it an excellent choice for these types of dinners.

The signet found on every bottle of Glenmorangie has its roots in the ancient past. At the end of the 8th century, the native Picts carved a huge stone, the Cadboll Stone, which eventually became the oldest recorded archaelogical find in Scotland. Though the Stone was eventually relocated to the National Museum in Scotland, Glenmorangie commissioned a stone replica which was eventually placed on its original location. The signet on their bottles is one of the carvings on this Stone.

For the last 49 years, Glenmorangie has been the top selling selling single malt in Scotland. Currently, the top market for Glenmorangie is Japan, with Canada and the U.S. essentially tied for second and third place. Within the U.S., New Jersey is their top market, making me curious as to why they drink so much of their scotch. I would never have guessed that was the largest U.S. market. Metro New York and Los Angeles are the next two largest markets and Massachusetts ranks around fourth or fifth place, though it has also seen 40% growth in recent years. Information on their production statistics as well as the number of barrels was not available, and not something the distillery generally shares.

The greatest challenge facing Glenmorangie is  handling the competition, trying to expose more consumers to their products. Glenmorangie produces about ten different Scotches, including some limited editions. For example, one of their limited editions is the Artein, which is finished in Super Tuscan barrels from the renowned Sassacaia. It is illegal in the U.S. to place the name of Sassacaia on the bottle label, but in Europe they are able to do so.

Our evening began with a couple passed appetizers, including a shot glass of Creamy Corn Soup, with coriander & a brioche crouton, and Goat Cheese Croquettes. The corn soup was extremely creamy and flavorful, and I wished I had been given a large bowl. The croquettes were also excellent, with a light, crispy outer coating and silky goat cheese inside. This culinary start boded well for the rest of the dinner.

Our first pairing was the Nectar D'Or ($67), which spends 10 years in white oak and then another 2 years in old Sauternes barrels. Sauternes is a lauded sweet wine from France, and the grapes were affected by botrytis, the "noble rot." They are probably the only distillery to regularly produce such a unique scotch. With a light golden color, this scotch was smooth with intense flavors of honey, butterscotch, citrus and spice. There was a very restrained sweetness which enhanced this exquisite scotch and it paired well with the creaminess of the appetizers.

The first course of the evening was a Brown Butter Seared Sea Scallop with red beet juice risotto and frisee. The tender, well seared scallop was pleasing and the risotto combined a mild earthiness with a sweet tinge. The pairing for this dish was The Original ($35), their entry level scotch which is aged for ten years in used bourbon casks. Smooth, light and elegant, this make a great introduction to single malt, and its flavors, a combination of citrus, white stone fruits and vanilla notes, will appeal to many. This scotch would pair well with many different seafood dishes, or even a light chicken dish.

The next course was a clear winner, Chicken Liver Ravioli with dried cherry red onion compote, Chianti, and a Balsamic reduction. The thin pasta was cooked perfectly, just al dente enough, and the earthy taste of the chicken liver was well balanced by the sweetness of the compote and sauce. The third scotch was the  Quinta Ruban ($50), which is aged for ten years in used bourbon barrels and then two years in ruby port pipes. It possessed a deeper and complex flavor, with notes of citrus, honey, spice, leather, and a subtle red fruit note, as well as a lengthy, satisfying finish. It was able to handle the earthiness of this dish, balancing it with a mild sweetness. Another winning combination.

The Braised Wagyu Beef Cheeks, with brussel sprouts and fingerling potatoes, was a good-sized piece of extremely tender meat, that easily fell apart with my fork alone. A rich and smooth taste, the beef satisfied my inner carnivore. The scotch for this dish was the 18 Year Old Glenmorangie ($95), which spends about 15 years in used bourbon barrels and then 30% spends an additional 3 years in Spanish Oloroso sherry casks, after which it is all blended back together. With a darker gold color, this was an amazing scotch, smooth, complex, and well layered with a compelling melange of dried fruits, honey, figs and caramel. It worked well with the beef, complementing its taste. A killer scotch!

Our dessert course was a Manjhari Chocolate Mousse Cake with hazelnut creme, a rich and creamy dish with touches of salt and citrus. Would you think of chocolate and scotch? Well it certainly can work, if you have the right scotch. Our final selection was the Signet ($200), a unique blend of older whiskey, most over 30 years old and the youngest being 20 years old. Master Distiller Lumsden has always loved coffee and that is reflected in this scotch. Though some of the details of its production are secret, it is known that they use a high roast chocolate barley, dried in a coffee roaster. With a very alluring aroma, this scotch does possess a compelling blend of coffee and chocolate flavors, with hints of orange, spice, and brininess. And it worked well with the chocolate.

Many of the attendees seemed to favor the Signet above the others of the night, though my personal favorite is probably the 18 Year Old. I certainly enjoyed the Signet very much, but it would be more of a scotch for specific occasions rather than a more every day choice. I liked all five of the scotches and found how food friendly they are, thanks to a compelling menu showcasing the versatility of the scotch. Let us see more spirit-paired dinners and I challenge local chefs to try to create some menus, with scotch, tequila, rum or any other spirit.

If you enjoy Scotch, or want to learn more about it, then a great option is to seek out the portfolio of Glenmorangie Scotch. And check out Avila, which put together an excellent menu of delicious cuisine.