The Iconic Francesinha in Porto: Mission Accomplished!

It's 11:30pm and I'm in Porto, just having finished dinner. What do I do now? Well, I went to another restaurant for a Francesinha, an iconic sandwich of Porto which is sometimes referred to as a "heart attack on a plate." Yes, maybe I was a bit obsessed with this sandwich.

The term "francesinhas" is said to most often translate as "little French girl" though it could also mean"little Frenchie" or the "little French one." The sandwich apparently originated in the city of Porto and its exact origins are murky, though one theory seems to be dominant. The most common tale is that the sandwich was invented in the 1950s by Daniel David da Silva, a Portuguese man who was born in the municipality of Terras do Bouro. Seeking work, he traveled to Belgium and France, eventually becoming a barman. When he eventually returned to Portugal, he started working at A Regaleira restaurant.

He was considered to be an inventive cook and one of his experiments was a sandwich which was inspired by the Croque Monsieur, the famous French sandwich made from ham and cheese and commonly topped by béchamel sauce. Daniel David added more layers of meat and topped the sandwich with a spicy sauce, allegedly made with tomato sauce and beer. Why did he call it a francesinha? The reason is uncertain, some claiming he did it to reflect the robust, spicy women of France as opposed to the more sulky Portuguese women.

In Porto, you'll find many variations of the francesinha, though it commonly is a stack of different meats between two pieces of bread with melted cheese atop it (and sometimes an egg) which is then covered by a spicy tomato-based sauce. The recipe for the sauce is usually a big secret, though beer and sometimes even Port, is used in the making. The quality and flavor of the sauce can make or break a francesinha. In Porto, they also state you need to drink a beer with the sandwich, and a number of restaurants offer a special deal on a francesinha & beer. As I'm not much of a beer fan, I had to forgo that combination.

In the Boston area, you can find the francesinha at Tasty Cafe On the Hill in Medford. Their sandwich is supposed to be based on a family recipe that is 30-40 years old, and you can find five different versions on their menu. They might be the only restaurant in Massachusetts to sell the francesinha. I like their francesinha but knew that I needed to have one at the source, in Porto, to truly  understand the essence of this alluring sandwich.

When I learned that I would be traveling to Portugal, visiting the city of Porto, I did research, trying to discover the restaurants which might offer the best francesinhas, and compiled a short list of six options. When I reached Portugal, I found my time in Porto limited and started to think I might not have the opportunity to eat a francesinha. However, on the last night of my trip, it seemed the fates favored me and I found a way to fulfill my desire for a francesinha! It didn't matter that I'd just had dinner, I knew that I could eat such a large sandwich. It also helped that my traveling companions were fully supportive of me fulfilling my mission to have a francesinha.

I ended up at Capa Negra II, which actually had been on my short list of best places for the francesinha. Owned by Amândio Fontes, the restaurant has been around for around 40 years, and takes its name, "black cape" or "black cover," from the black suit and cape worn by local college students. The restaurant is diner-like, a simple place to grab a casual bite to eat, a place for locals and those tourists aware of its reputation.

The sandwich (about 10 Euros) was delivered quickly and seemed to contain steak, linguiça, ham, and melted cheese, accompanied by an ample portion of French fries. The ingredients in the sauce are a closely held secret, which is common for many Porto restaurants. It looked enticing and I eagerly dug into the sandwich, as well as the fries.

Here, you can see the inside of the francesinha. I found the sandwich to be fresh, hearty and delicious, with plenty of tender meat, lots of gooey cheese, all enhanced by the slightly tangy and flavorful sauce. Each bite brought immense pleasure to my belly and soul and my traveling companions mentioned that I looked like a happy kid in a candy store. The fries were crisp, and soaked with the sauce they were even better. This was a damn tasty francesinha, and I understood how the restaurant earned its worthy reputation. I finished off the entire sandwich, sharing a couple bites with my traveling companions. Cape Negra II earns a hearty recommendation for their francesinha.

Mission accomplished! And a fitting way to end my amazing trip to Portugal.

I can't say the same for the other francesinha I ate. In the Porto Airport, I had some time to kill and wanted a bit of lunch before my flight. How could I then resist a restaurant named A Francesinha? First, the sandwich didn't come with French fries. That seemed a strange omission. Second, it had more melted cheese than the sandwich at Capa Negra, though I liked all the extra cheese. Third, the sandwich itself actually wasn't bad but the sauce was a fail, being too watery and lacking a good depth of flavor. If the sauce had been better, this would have been a decent sandwich.

The next time I'm in Porto, I hope I can try a francesinha from another restaurant on my short list. And if you're traveling to Porto, you need to enjoy one of these sandwiches too. It is a hearty dish, sure to sate any hunger, and should appeal to any meatlover. If the size of the sandwich seems too threatening, some of the restaurants offer a half-portion, or you could just share it with someone else.