Proto Restaurant in Dubrovnik: A Seafood Paradise

An aerial view of the Croatian city of Dubrovnik, located on the coast of the Adriatic Sea. It's a city with a fascinating history, and its medieval walls and fortifications are compelling, enough that Game of Thrones used various sites in Dubrovnik as settings in the series. We spent a little time touring the city, including walking along some of the city high walls, immersing ourselves in its rich history. From atop the city walls, you'll find such great views of the city and the water. Dubrovnik is a popular Croatian destination, and numerous cruise ships dock at their port, so you'll find plenty of other tourists in the streets.

While in Dubrovnik, our lunch was sponsored by the Dubrovnik & Neretva County Tourist Board, and we dined with their representative, Ivona Bijač Nikolić, at the Riblji Restoran Proto, more commonly known as the Proto Restaurant. "Riblji" mean "fish" and "Proto" is a nickname for the owner. Proto is part of a trio of restaurants, which also includes Orlando, a cafe/bistro in Dubrovnik, and Konavoski Dvori, a national restaurant at Gruda-Ljjuta in the Konavle region.

The restaurant is easily located at 1 Široka Street, which is a side street off the Stradun, the main thoroughfare of Dubrovnik. There has been a Riblji Restoran located at the site of Proto since 1886, and it long been known as an excellent place for fresh seafood. Currently, the head chef is Boško Lonac, and the kitchen concentrates on what is fresh and available, not only seafood but all of their ingredients, from meat to vegetables. As such, the menu changes dependent on availability and the seasons. Proto is also one of the small number of Croatian restaurants listed in the Michelin Guide.

There is an elegance to the ambiance of this restaurant, though it avoids being pretentious. There is a small patio on the street, and on the second floor, you'll find an area which is partially outside, with a covering above. Proto's sommelier is Siniša Lasana, who was chosen as Croatia's top sommelier in the 21st National Sommelier Championship, organized by the Croatian Sommelier Club. He actually joined us for lunch, choosing the wines to accompany our meal. Those wines were delicious and exciting, especially for geeky wine lovers, giving us another glimpse into some of the best of Croatian wines.

The food menu at Proto is dominated by seafood, though you'll find a number of meat and vegetarian options too. There are Cold & Hot Starters, most ranged from $20-$30 US, including dishes such as Dalmatian-style Octopus Salad, Lobster Salad, Fish Carpaccio on Rocket Leaves, Dalmatian Prosciutto, Oysters au Gratin, Grilled Foie Gras, and Risotto Matelote. Entrees, most ranging from $29-$66, include dishes such as Lobster Tail with Pasta, Grilled Mediterranean Scallop, Gratinated Sea Bream, Charcoal-Grilled Ribeye Steak, and Duck Breast. There are a couple special items as well, including the Adriatic Fish (daily catch selection, grilled/oven-roasted-steamed/stewed, 1 kg, $118) and the Adriatic Lobster (2 styles, 1 kg, $202). Plus, they offer the Porto Menu, a special 5 course meal, for $118.

This was the most expensive restaurant I visited while in Croatia, its prices equivalent to some of the higher end restaurants in Boston, and it's well worth the splurge. The high quality and freshness of the food, its perfect execution, the ambiance of the restaurant, the professional service, all warrant the prices. This isn't some over-priced tourist trap, but rather a serious restaurant which would excel in any city. If you love seafood, then this is your destination in Dubrovnik.

We began our lunch with some bubbly, the Tris Limited Edition Sparkling Wine from the island of Korčula. This wine was made by a joint endeavor between three winemakers, Igor Radovanović, Nikola Mirošević and Matej Jovanović. In addition, the wine is made from three indigenous grapes, Pošip, Rukatac and Cetinka. As the number three was so important to the making of the wine, they decided to call it Tris. I very much enjoyed this wine, finding it to be crisp and dry, with plenty of tiny bubbles, and delicious and complex flavors, primarily of green apple, pear, and a hint of brioche. Such a refreshing wine, with a pleasing finish, and an indication that Croatians can make excellent sparkling wine.

I decided to start with some Ston Oysters, having previously enjoyed them so much. These were superb, so fresh, clean, and meaty, with a prominent briny element. As I've mentioned before, the Ston oysters also possessed an additional unique taste that is hard to pin down but which is quite tasty. These were probably the best Ston oysters I enjoyed during my time in Croatia, and I easily could have devoured a couple dozen.

One of my dining companions shared his First Class Fish Tartare with me, which was smooth and flavorful, fresh and creamy. It was spiced nicely, and immediately brought to mind the sea. It was an ample portion as well, and would make a good choice.

The Snails, Prepared Pelješac-Style, were meaty and earthy, bathed in a rich and flavorful red wine and garlic sauce. Another killer of a dish! I love snails, though usually have them in a lighter, white wine garlic sauce, but I'd like to see more restaurants using this richer sauce. Being able to dip your bread in this sauce is another benefit of this dish.

The 2017 Crvik Blasius Malvasia Dubrovacka is an orange wine, produced by a small, family-run winery with roots back to 1897. The Malvasija Dubrovačka grape has existed since the time of the ancient Greeks and it's seeing a revitalization in recent years. Fermented with natural yeasts, this wine was macerated on the lees for about six months. It is complex and intriguing, with a fascinating melange of flavors, including peach, almonds, orange peel, floral notes, and a subtle mineral aspect. Excellent acidity, well-integrated tannins, and a lengthy finish. There is so much going on in each sip, and you could easily sit and savor a glass for hours, reveling in what can be found with each taste. Highly recommended!

The Cream of Crab Soup had tiny shrimp within its, and it was tossed by some tiny, crunchy croutons. It had a deep, rich and savory taste with a mild sweetness from the crab.

Our final wine was the 2017 Heritage, produced to be an homage to Korčula. The wine was created by Igor Radovanovic, blending two indigenous varieties, Grk and Pošip, from a 50 year-old vineyard. The grapes were macerated on the skins, and then aged on the lees in oak barrique. Sommelier Siniša Lasan was also a consultant on the project to create this wine. It was alluringly aromatic, with a palate that was dry, crisp and fresh with intense herbal flavors and subtle citrus and stone fruit tastes. Another complex wine that only surprises you with each sip, bringing something new to you with each taste. Also Highly recommended!

For my entree, after much contemplation, I opted for the Gambero Rosso Shrimps Tails, accompanied by homemade ravioli with ricotta, in a sweet wine sauce. It turned out to be a scrumptious choice. The plump shrimp were meaty and fresh, enhanced by the savory and complex wine sauce. The ravioli were plump as well, the pasta cooked perfectly, and possessed of a delightful creamy filling. The sauce wasn't overly sweet, with plenty of savory notes, and it complemented both the ravioli and shrimp. This is the type of dish that makes you want to return to the restaurant to try more of their menu.

Proto is certainly a seafood lover's paradise, and it's well worth a splurge. The service was excellent, professional and accommodating, while the ambiance was elegant yet still comfortable. Fresh seafood, skillfully prepared, and absolutely delicious. Fascinating and delicious Croatian wines, showcasing the best of that country. The small production wines we enjoyed were sensual and intellectual pleasures. If you visit Dubrovnik, make sure to dine at Proto.