2017 Hyland Estates Old Vine Pinot Noir: "Land Not Hand"

It's one of the oldest wineries in Oregon, and its vineyards were initially planted with Pinot Noir, which may have been originally sourced from Alsace. An intriguing origin tale.

Hyland Estates, located in the McMinnville AVA of the Willamette Valley, Oregon, was first planted in 1971 by four families, the Kreimeyers, Markleys, Welches, and Trenhailes. One of the original Pinot Noir clones that was planted was the mysterious Coury clone, named after the pioneer Charles Coury, who came to Oregon in 1965, believing the area would be excellent for Pinot. It is believed that around 1964, Charles brought Pinot Noir cuttings from Alsace, and these became known as the Coury Clone, said to possess a "signature spice and elegant texture." Today, Hyland Estates grows over 30 acres of the Coury clone.

The estate is also now owned by Laurent Montalieu, Danielle Andrus Montalieu, and John Niemeyer, with Laurent acting as winemaker in conjunction with Anne Sery. Ranging over 200 acres, the vineyards are planted on red volcanic Jory soil, which is also the state soil of Oregon. Though Pinot Noir is their primary specialty, and they grow a number of different clones, their vineyards also grow a variety of other grapes, such as Chardonnay, Riesling, and Gewurtztraminer.

They practice Biodynamic agriculture and their grapes are LIVE certified grapes, indicative of their environmental and socially responsible winegrowing. The estate has also adopted a "land not hand" philosophy, a minimal interventionist stance, believing that the wine is primarily made in the vineyard, not in the winery.

The 2017 Hyland Estates Old Vine Pinot Noir ($45) is a single vineyard wine, made from a blend of different Pinot Noir clones, some as much as 48 years old, including 65% Coury clone. With a 13.3% ABV, this wine spent about 9 months in French oak and only about 1968 cases were produced.   Their goal was to "showcase the entire vineyard and the best of the clones planted throughout." With a medium red colorist possessed an appealing aroma of red fruits and subtle spice notes. On the palate, it was compelling and elegant, complex and silky, with delicious flavors of cherry and raspberry, with a mild spiciness, balanced acidity, well integrated tannins, and a touch of earthiness. The lengthy finish was satisfying and alluring, and beckoned for you to take another sip. An excellent Pinot, this earns my hearty recommendation.