Tasting Counter: Chef Peter Ungár & Consistent Excellence

Back in 2008, I first met Chef Peter Ungár, who was holding private, five-course dinners, with wine pairings, at his home in Somerville. That first dinner was amazing, with dishes including Chawan Mushi, Maine Lobster Tortelloni, Halibut with Foie Gras & Black Truffle, Green Cardomon Brined Kurobuta Pork Belly, and Pineapple Vanilla Bean Tarte Tatin. I attended a number of these dinners, including having Chef Ungár prepare a special birthday dinner for me one year. 

Fast forward to July 2015, when Chef Ungár finally opened his own restaurant, Tasting Counter, in Somerville. He offers a nine-course tasting menu, paired with ten selections of wine, beer, Sake, or nonalcoholic beverages. It's a small place, seating only twenty people, but allowing more personal attention to each and every guest. I've dined there a number of times as well, and my most recent experience was a couple weeks ago. 

As I've frequently said, Chef Ungár is one of the best chefs in the Boston+ area, although he doesn't receive as much attention as he deserves. His restaurant has been consistently excellent every time I've been there, due in large part to Chef Ungár being a perfectionist. His dishes are creative and delicious, with such intriguing combinations of ingredients. And the drink pairings are excellent choices as well. It receives my highest and unqualified recommendation. If you have not dined there, then you need to make a reservation. 

You purchase your tickets to these dinners online, paying one price for the 9 courses of food, 10 drink pairings, tax and gratuity. You don't know the menu until you show up, although they can adjust matters for many allergies. Many of their ingredients are locally sourced, including herbs that they grow on the premises. Sustainability is very important to Chef Ungár. 

Below, you'll find information about the dishes I enjoyed at my last experience at Tasting Counter. I had the Sake pairing while my dining companion had the wine pairings. We shared the drinks so I got to taste both the Sake and wine. At the end of your meal, you receive a copy of the menu to take home with you. However, the menu doesn't fully do justice to the dishes you're served, as part of the experience is being told, often by Chef Ungár, the sourcing of the ingredients. It's also cool to watch the Chef and his staff prepare many of the dishes in front of you. 

I didn't take notes about this dinner, just photos, primarily as I was there simply to enjoy the dinner. It was another superb dinner, but the quality I always expect, and receive, from Chef Ungár. Consistency is one of the most important elements of a restaurant, and Tasting Counter always delivers. I've recommended it often, and the feedback from those who have dined there have largely been extremely positive. 

Welcoming Bites: Pickled Mussel with Sea Urchin; Duck Liver Mousse with black chestnut & hibiscus; Seaweed Cured Yellowtail Amberjack Belly with green blueberry.
Paired with: Benedicte et Stephanie Tissot Cremant de Jura Extra Brut and Hakkaisan Sparkling Nigori

Red Sea Bream with preserved lemon, snap peas, and red shiso. The red liquid is a shish soda! 
Paired with 2019 Domaine Barmes Buecher Tosenberg Alsace Pinot Blanc and Kikusui Shuzo Junmai Ginjo

Razor Clam with green strawberry, cucumber custard, black lime, and salad burnet
Paired with 2020 Poggio Anima il Mostro Ragana and Fukucho "Moon on the Water" Junmai Ginjo

(No photo)

White Nectarine & White Peony with lemon balm, ricotta, and parma ham
Paired with 2019 Bichi Tecate Rosa (from Mexico!) and Akishiko Shuzo Yama Junmai

Black Sea Bass with fava, shallot, radish, green tomato, and smoked tomato
Paired with 2019 Domaine Reveille Carpe and Iinuma Honke Kinoene Junmai Ginjo

Dover Sole with lobster, porcini, show pea, and fairy ring mushroom
Paired with 2020 Meinklang Mulatschak Weisser and Kidoizumi Shuzo Yamadanishiki Junmai

Schisandra Berry with pine nut & almond

Pheasant with pistschio, garlic scape, pea miso, lavage, and celery vinegar
Paired with 2020 Division Winemakig Co. Les Petits Fers and Tensei "Endless Summer" Tokubetsu Honjozo

Wagyu Sirloin with ancho chile, sunchoke, wild rapini, and turnip
Paired with 2017 Matlas Riccitelli Cabernet Sauvignon (Argentina) and Katoukichibee Shouten Born Gold Junmai Daiginjo (one of my favorite Sakes)

Olive Oil with fermented rhubarba, schisandra cream, and burnt bay leaf
Paired with 2019 Silver Thread Vineyard Estate Riesling and Amabuki Shuzo Ichigo Junmai Ginjo Nama

Dark Chocolate with almond, kumquat curd, fermented red plum
Paired with Raphael Bartucci Bugey Cerdon and Ryujin Shuzo Oze x Rose Junmai Daiginjo

Parting Morsels: Williams Pear & Thai Basil Fruit Chew; Candy Cap Mushroom Bonbon; and Fennel Pollen Madeline

I thoroughly enjoyed every dish and was impressed with the creativity, the intriguing melange of ingredients in each dish. And I'd highly recommend you opt for the Sake pairings. Tasting Counter has the largest Sake menu of any non-Asian restaurant in the Boston+ area, if not in all of Massachusetts. The wine pairings are excellent too, generally all natural wines from all over the world.