Let's continue our exploration of the origins and early history of the Club Sandwich.
Another recipe was provided in The Parker Message (KS), March 27, 1903. “A club sandwich, hot and crisp, is a toothsome morsel when a man and his friends are hungry. The toast is made in the chafing-dish and kept hot by ingenuity. Bacon comes in cans, and can be fried quickly. If lettuce can be had, so much the better. If the hour is too late to provide it, a sandwich may be ‘club’ by name at least, without it. First put on the toast a generous spreading of butter, then a layer of canned chicken, and then a slice of crisp bacon. If cold boiled ham is possible, it adds to the flavor.” The lettuce is noted as being an essential element of the "club" sandwich.
Over less than fifteen years, the club sandwich had evolved, from a rather simple sandwich to a much more complicated one. The Buffalo Sunday Morning News (NY), July 5, 1903, described some of this in an article entitled Evolution of the Complicated Club Sandwich. It began, “From a simple matter of toast, ham and chicken, the club sandwich has developed into a veritable meat course. Those made by the most recent recipes are exceedingly complex affairs and altogether appetizing.” This is not the first mention of the complexity of the later recipes for the club sandwich. In addition, it makes a clear line from the simple Union Club sandwich to the more elaborate versions that were later created.
The article provided its own recipe: “For a perfect club sandwich the toast must be neither very brittle nor in the least tough. The white meat of the chicken is preferable, although dark meat of a young fowl will serve in a pinch. Cold ham, sliced very thin, is usually added, but a later suggestion substitutes crisp strips of bacon. Between the toast and the chicken are placed lettuce leaves, which have been rendered tender by an ice water bath. If one is in a hurry a good cream dressing may be used instead of the oil mayonnaise for dipping the lettuce. All kinds of little relishes, chopped or sliced, are added if a really substantial sandwich is desired. Hard boiled egg is crumbled over the meats and teaspoonful of minced olives is shaken in. Some epicures substitute cold boiled tongue for the ham or bacon, and game is occasionally used instead of the chicken. But to the average palate the ordinary combination is tasty enough.”
It is this complexity, with a variety of different ingredients, which might be the reason for the high cost of the sandwich in some places.
What is the proper way to eat a club sandwich? It’s a sandwich so you would think your fingers were sufficient for the task, but some felt it required a knife and fork. The Democrat & Chronicle (NY), September 10, 1903, noted, “Some discussion has been going the rounds in the New York papers as to how a club sandwich shall be eaten, whether with a knife and fork, whether with just a knife or a fork or taken in the fingers and devoured the same as any sandwich.”
It seems that some men from Chicago stopped at the Astor House, and ordered club sandwiches. The food was brought, piping hot, and served with a knife and fork. Nearly all of the men ate it with their fingers and their waiter commented that they must be from out of town cause of how they ate the sandwiches. It seems New Yorkers knew to use a knife and fork.
The question then spread to various newspapers, “Should a club sandwich be classed among that sort of cooked food, which for the sake of daintiness, should be handled with cutlery when being consumed?”
The Inter Ocean (IL), September 12, 1903, expanded on this story, the writer being of the men from Chicago who had club sandwiches in New York. He stated it, “…cost as much as a roast dinner in Greenpoint.” He also stated, “When it was brought on I found it was cut square, and then diagonal, making two triangular halves. I picked up one in my fingers, spurning the knife and fork which the waiter had left at my place.” He then noted that a nearby woman told him that he must be from Chicago because of how he ate the sandwich.
In the Pittsburgh Weekly Gazette (PA), October 11, 1903, there was Beatrix Lee’s Counsel, a column of Q&A from her readers, where “Questions of general interest to women will be promptly answered in this column.” She received a question about the club sandwich, “What is the proper way to eat a club sandwich?” Her answer, “Use a knife and fork when eating a club sandwich.”
Instead of a dainty dish, this newspaper considered the club sandwich to be a hearty meal. The Inter Ocean (IL), November 11, 1903, began, “Instead of a ‘bite’ to check one’s hunger until a full meal can be eaten, it is a meal in itself.” It then gave its own recipe, “First the bread is toasted carefully, for this part of the preparation cannot be slighted. Then comes the complex filling wherein much variety of taste is allowable. Lay one slice of trimmed and toasted bread on a plate, on this a crisp lettuce lead dipped in cream or mayonnaise dressing, then a slice of white chicken meat, a shaving of cold boiled tongue, and two or three slices of bacon cooked crisp, sprinkle with chopped hard boiled egg, lay on another dressed lettuce leaf, and last another slice of toast.”
As we see, there was a third type of meat, tongue, accompany the chicken and bacon, as well as the addition of chopped hard-boiled egg.
The article also mentioned a variation, “Another combination is chicken and boiled ham, with chopped olives on the chicken and chopped boiled egg on the ham. Everything must be of good quality and put together daintily, else the club sandwich is a mussy affair, suggestive of remnants of left-overs. Then there is opportunity for novel seasonings.”
A doctor recommended the club sandwich! The St. Louis Republic (MO), December 26, 1903, discussed an interesting experiment conducted by Dr. Horace Fletcher of Yale University, who had been previously involved in scientific research into chemical physiology and nutrition. Recently, he had been living at the Waldorf-Astoria hotel, in New York City, spending $1 a day for his food and drink.
His usual dinner was a club sandwich and a cup of chocolate, and he noted the health benefits of the sandwich. “The club sandwich is a peculiarly well-rounded dinner, with chocolate, which, as everyone knows, is one of the most nourishing liquids.” He continued, “The toast I have of whole wheat bread—my stomach never calls for ordinary white bread. Then there is vegetable acid and certain valuable salts in the lettuce and sliced tomato. The bacon has all the properties of meat and a sort of fat that is invaluable, and the chicken, with the cream dressing, adds to the palatable quality of the dish. I have the dressing specially prepared; it is not rich, like ordinary mayonnaise dressing, and the toast is not buttered.”
The club sandwich was complex, but still dainty. The Washington Times (DC), December 27, 1903, noted that “...while it can be prepared in a hurry, care must be taken to have it put together daintily, else it will have the appearance of being made from the remnants and leftovers.”; The article also stated, “There are several combinations for the filling, but the foundation is always toast, carefully prepared. Trim the toast, then lay a crisp lettuce leaf onto it, having first dipped the leaf into cream, or mayonnaise dressing. Next a slice of cold chicken, the white meat, a shaving of cold boiled tongue, and two or three slices of bacon cooked crisp, and sprinkle with chopped hard boiled egg, and then add another slice of toast. Each layer may be separated with a thin slice of toast if desired and it really makes a nicer dish.”
We finally see another reference to a third slice of toast, a variation on the traditional recipe, and it again seems that the third slice exists primarily to separate the cold (chicken/tongue) and hot (bacon) ingredients.
The sardine club arose again. The Buffalo Commercial (NY), March 15, 1904, printed, “A variation of the favorite club sandwich, which is achieved by using well drained sardines in place of chicken. Toast thin slices of bread and place between the slices blanched lettuce leaves, two slices of crisped bacon and a sardine, split and boned. Lettuce and bacon must be placed on each slice of toast.”
A lengthier and more detailed description of the club sandwich, and its preparation, was presented in the Saint Paul Globe (MN), April 24, 1904. It began, “Nothing is more delicious than a well-made club sandwich.” The article continued, noting the ingredients of the sandwich, “To make and serve a club sandwich in perfection the best of materials must be at hand. A club sandwich is a combination of hot and cold materials, and yet as a complete thing it must be served hot. It is made of hot boiled ham, cold chicken, hot toast, lettuce leaves, and a very little mayonnaise dressing. The bread must be the very lightest and quite fresh. The ham must be well cured and cut as thin as a wafer, and the breast of a cold boiled chicken must be used, sliced very thin.”
The preparation instructions were then provided. “First cut the chicken and lay the slices on a plate where they will be at hand. Cut some thin slices either from an uncooked or from a boiled ham, have you crisp leaves of lettuce on a dish by the sliced chicken, and a little bowl of mayonnaise dressing also ready and at hand; also some butter, pepper and salt.” In continuance, “Cut slices of fresh bread from a square or brick-shaped loaf of American bread. Have the slices medium thin, trim off the crust, and toast as many slices as are required. While the bread is toasting broil the ham quickly.”
The Inter Ocean (IL), September 12, 1903, expanded on this story, the writer being of the men from Chicago who had club sandwiches in New York. He stated it, “…cost as much as a roast dinner in Greenpoint.” He also stated, “When it was brought on I found it was cut square, and then diagonal, making two triangular halves. I picked up one in my fingers, spurning the knife and fork which the waiter had left at my place.” He then noted that a nearby woman told him that he must be from Chicago because of how he ate the sandwich.
In the Pittsburgh Weekly Gazette (PA), October 11, 1903, there was Beatrix Lee’s Counsel, a column of Q&A from her readers, where “Questions of general interest to women will be promptly answered in this column.” She received a question about the club sandwich, “What is the proper way to eat a club sandwich?” Her answer, “Use a knife and fork when eating a club sandwich.”
Instead of a dainty dish, this newspaper considered the club sandwich to be a hearty meal. The Inter Ocean (IL), November 11, 1903, began, “Instead of a ‘bite’ to check one’s hunger until a full meal can be eaten, it is a meal in itself.” It then gave its own recipe, “First the bread is toasted carefully, for this part of the preparation cannot be slighted. Then comes the complex filling wherein much variety of taste is allowable. Lay one slice of trimmed and toasted bread on a plate, on this a crisp lettuce lead dipped in cream or mayonnaise dressing, then a slice of white chicken meat, a shaving of cold boiled tongue, and two or three slices of bacon cooked crisp, sprinkle with chopped hard boiled egg, lay on another dressed lettuce leaf, and last another slice of toast.”
As we see, there was a third type of meat, tongue, accompany the chicken and bacon, as well as the addition of chopped hard-boiled egg.
The article also mentioned a variation, “Another combination is chicken and boiled ham, with chopped olives on the chicken and chopped boiled egg on the ham. Everything must be of good quality and put together daintily, else the club sandwich is a mussy affair, suggestive of remnants of left-overs. Then there is opportunity for novel seasonings.”
A doctor recommended the club sandwich! The St. Louis Republic (MO), December 26, 1903, discussed an interesting experiment conducted by Dr. Horace Fletcher of Yale University, who had been previously involved in scientific research into chemical physiology and nutrition. Recently, he had been living at the Waldorf-Astoria hotel, in New York City, spending $1 a day for his food and drink.
His usual dinner was a club sandwich and a cup of chocolate, and he noted the health benefits of the sandwich. “The club sandwich is a peculiarly well-rounded dinner, with chocolate, which, as everyone knows, is one of the most nourishing liquids.” He continued, “The toast I have of whole wheat bread—my stomach never calls for ordinary white bread. Then there is vegetable acid and certain valuable salts in the lettuce and sliced tomato. The bacon has all the properties of meat and a sort of fat that is invaluable, and the chicken, with the cream dressing, adds to the palatable quality of the dish. I have the dressing specially prepared; it is not rich, like ordinary mayonnaise dressing, and the toast is not buttered.”
The club sandwich was complex, but still dainty. The Washington Times (DC), December 27, 1903, noted that “...while it can be prepared in a hurry, care must be taken to have it put together daintily, else it will have the appearance of being made from the remnants and leftovers.”; The article also stated, “There are several combinations for the filling, but the foundation is always toast, carefully prepared. Trim the toast, then lay a crisp lettuce leaf onto it, having first dipped the leaf into cream, or mayonnaise dressing. Next a slice of cold chicken, the white meat, a shaving of cold boiled tongue, and two or three slices of bacon cooked crisp, and sprinkle with chopped hard boiled egg, and then add another slice of toast. Each layer may be separated with a thin slice of toast if desired and it really makes a nicer dish.”
We finally see another reference to a third slice of toast, a variation on the traditional recipe, and it again seems that the third slice exists primarily to separate the cold (chicken/tongue) and hot (bacon) ingredients.
The sardine club arose again. The Buffalo Commercial (NY), March 15, 1904, printed, “A variation of the favorite club sandwich, which is achieved by using well drained sardines in place of chicken. Toast thin slices of bread and place between the slices blanched lettuce leaves, two slices of crisped bacon and a sardine, split and boned. Lettuce and bacon must be placed on each slice of toast.”
A lengthier and more detailed description of the club sandwich, and its preparation, was presented in the Saint Paul Globe (MN), April 24, 1904. It began, “Nothing is more delicious than a well-made club sandwich.” The article continued, noting the ingredients of the sandwich, “To make and serve a club sandwich in perfection the best of materials must be at hand. A club sandwich is a combination of hot and cold materials, and yet as a complete thing it must be served hot. It is made of hot boiled ham, cold chicken, hot toast, lettuce leaves, and a very little mayonnaise dressing. The bread must be the very lightest and quite fresh. The ham must be well cured and cut as thin as a wafer, and the breast of a cold boiled chicken must be used, sliced very thin.”
The preparation instructions were then provided. “First cut the chicken and lay the slices on a plate where they will be at hand. Cut some thin slices either from an uncooked or from a boiled ham, have you crisp leaves of lettuce on a dish by the sliced chicken, and a little bowl of mayonnaise dressing also ready and at hand; also some butter, pepper and salt.” In continuance, “Cut slices of fresh bread from a square or brick-shaped loaf of American bread. Have the slices medium thin, trim off the crust, and toast as many slices as are required. While the bread is toasting broil the ham quickly.”
And then, “As soon as the toast and ham are done, lay a slice of toast on a hot plate and butter it very lightly. Next, lay a slice of ham on the toast, then a leaf of lettuce on the ham. Sprinkle the lettuce with a little salt and black pepper, then spread a very little mayonnaise on the lettuce. Next put on the slice of chicken, cover it with a thin coating of mayonnaise, then lay a leaf of lettuce over it. Last of all, top off with another slice of toast, and trim the sandwich all around. Cut it in two triangles,… and serve.”
As we see, two slices was still more of the norm in these recipes, with three slices more of a minor variation. That would slowly change over the coming years.
For example, the Blue Valley Blade (NE), May 18, 1904, briefly noted, “Ed Howe’s lecture entertainment is like a three-story club house sandwich; it is in three substantial layers with the most delectable parts in between.” So, we know some places were serving three slices of toast in their club sandwich, but most still only served two.
During the early 20th century, when soda fountains were common and popular, they often created sundaes and drinks that reflected various popular foods, like the Chop Suey Sundae I previously wrote about. Thus, it’s not surprising that the Argus-Leader (SD), July 15, 1904, briefly noted that the “new Club Sandwich Sundae” was available at a spot called Dunnings. No description of the sundae was given.
The Club Sandwich Sundae was mentioned briefly, and not described, in several subsequent newspapers, such as the Harrisburg Telegraph (PA), September 21, 1906, which had an ad for Dives, Pomeroy & Stewart where a Club Sandwich Sundae cost 15 cents.
The Bay City Daily Tribune (MI), May 12, 1907, mentioned a Club Sandwich Sundae cost 30 cents at the Frantz. And the above ad is from the Bay City Daily Tribune (MI), July 7, 1908. The Evansville Courier & Press (IN), May 12, 1909, also briefly noted that the Lukas & Kolius Candy Co. offered a Club Sandwich Sundae for 20 cents.
A description of the sundae finally appeared. The Dispenser Soda Water Guide by The Soda Fountain (2nd edition, 1909) presented the recipe for the Club Sandwich Sundae, stating, “A club sandwich sundae is a new acquisition to the soda water trade and one that comes first among the many innovations introduced by warm weather. Have an individual mold made by a tinsmith. He may use for a model a small ice cream sandwich mold, making it three inches wide and two and one-half inches long. Have the bottom plate made to fit very closely and perfectly flat on the inside so as not to retain any soft cream or water that may accumulate during the rush hours. Take two saucers, one smaller than the other, put a napkin between them, place a fresh, crisp lettuce leaf on the top saucer, then proceed with the sundae. Cut a slice of orange, trim all the rind off carefully and put it on the bottom of the mold. Place a crème de menthe cherry in each corner and fill mold half full of vanilla ice cream. Then cover with two Nabisco wafers, several slices of pineapple (crème de rose pineapple adds to the color scheme), and fill balance of mild with orange sherbet or water ice. Press firmly, turn our and place before your customer.”
It’s an interesting sundae, and the use of a lettuce leaf at the bottom does give it a bit of a tie-in to the sandwich. Otherwise, all of the other ingredients don’t bring to mind the sandwich, except for the intricate construction of the sundae, trying to make it more like a sandwich with the mold.
Other recipes for club sandwich sundaes existed too. In the Rockford Republic (IL), January 25, 1912, it was reported that Ralph Hay, in charge of the soda fountain at Lewis Branch, had won a contest, held by the Soda Fountain Magazine, for his club sandwich sundae. Unfortunately, the recipe wasn’t provided. Additional brief mentions of the Club Sandwich Sundae appeared in the Repository (OH), April 7, 1912, Knoxville Sentinel (TN), November 26, 1913, Green Bay Press-Gazette (WI), June 26, 1915, and the Times-Tribune (PA), May 11, 1917.
Another variation of the Club Sandwich Sundae was presented. The National Druggist, volume 42, September 1912, provided, “Club Sandwich Sundae. Place a slice of vanilla ice cream on a plate, place over this two sweet wafers, and over them a slice of chocolate ice cream, giving a perfect sandwich. This sandwich is sometimes served on a lettuce leaf. Chopped nuts and fruits may also be used for fillers, likewise sliced apple, sliced orange (relived of rind), and other sliced fruits. Sliced banana answers the purpose well, as it may be eaten easily with a spoon, a point to be kept in mind. If you will have a sandwich mold made, you can get very elaborate effects.” This is similar in a number of respects to the first detailed recipe.
A very different Club Sandwich Sundae existed in North Carolina. The Asheville Citizen-Times (NC), August 3, 1916, had an ad, noting the sundae contained fresh peach cream, pound cake, whipped cream, nuts, and cherries. There was no mention of a sandwich mold or lettuce. This would be one of the last mentions of a club sandwich sundae in the newspapers.
As a brief aside, the Evansville Journal (IN), August 26, 1904, mentioned that “Pickles are a necessary article in the club sandwich of commerce,..” Although some recipes did call for pickles inside the sandwich, or as a garnish, they didn’t appear to be necessary, and more just a variation.
The popularity of club sandwiches allegedly impacted the cost of turkey! The Yonkers Herald (NY), November 22, 1904, reported that, “The appetizing ‘club sandwich’ is largely responsible for the high price of turkeys in New York this Fall, according to a statement made yesterday by a member of the poultry commission house of Heineman Brothers in Washington street.” It was noted that, “The extraordinary popularity of the club sandwich, said Me. Heineman, ‘has been attained within the last year and a half. It was served every day last Summer in all the fashionable hotels and restaurants in this city. Every ‘club sandwich’ has a slice of turkey in it, and the enormous number consumed has had an appreciable effect on the turkey supply.” It was also added that broiled turkey, another fad, had contributed to the turkey shortage.
The sandwich had achieved great popularity in New York, and it seemed that turkey, rather than chicken, was the bird of choice for the club sandwich. This article also notes how it was a very good summer sandwich.
Another cookbook presented its own recipe. How To Cook for the Sick & Convalescent by Helena Viola Sachse (2nd edition, 1904, gave two Club Sandwich recipes: The first stated, “Toast lightly (on one side only) two square slices of bread. Spread with butter and on one piece place a slice of chicken and a slice of tongue (or several slices of any desired cold meat). Season lightly, then cover thickly with shredded lettuce; garnish with mayonnaise dressing. Place the other slice of bread on the top (toasted side up). Serve with a knife and fork.” The second recipe was similar although the bread was softened with liquid, likely to make it more palatable to those who were ill and had difficulty eating.
Still a dainty sandwich. The New York-Tribune (NY), January 8, 1905, mentioned, “A club sandwich has a roystering sound to the feminine ear, but in reality its composition is of the daintiest: Two thin slices of delicately browned toast; between them a thin slice of carefully broiled ham, the fast crisp and brown; a thicker slice from the breast of chicken, and a lettuce leaf touched with mayonnaise.” Still, just two slices of bread.
Another recipe, but still with only two slices. Home & Abroad, Volume 61, Part 1, Boston (May 27, 1905), stated, “Rightly made, a club sandwich has been known to create a reputation for the maker. The ideal club sandwich is made thus: Take fresh and very light wheat bread, remove the crust and cut the loaf into thin slices. Toast the bread a delicate brown, and be careful that it does not get dry and hard while being kept hot. Toast for a club sandwich should be as far as possible from the popular zwieback or hard toast. Dip one side of the bread in melted butter, place it on a platter, on the toast lay a crisp lettuce leaf, then a thin slice of broiled ham or a thin rasher of bacon, according to preference; then a slice of turkey or chicken, combining light and dark meat harmoniously; season with salt and pepper; lay on another lettuce leaf, and crown with a second slice of toast. Press together, cut triangular shape, and send to the table at once, with a well made mayonnaise in another dish.”
In brief, the Democrat & Chronicle (NY), July 30, 1905, noted “..very popular with regular city picnickers is the club sandwich made with ham.”
The third slice appeared again. The Washington Post (DC), August 12, 1905, first began with a discussion of the toast. “Bread should be just browned, not toasted in the oven or in an ordinary toaster.” It then continued with the ingredients, “Have ready some slices of mealy chicken, without a grain of toughness in it; some broiled ham, some crisp bacon, some fresh and young lettuce, some mayonnaise dressing, and a hot pot of coffee. If you like then, some thin slices of tomato, or better still, the tomato pulp crushed.”
For the preparation, “Now, throw your bread on the lid of a hot stove, and the minute it begins to smoke turn it quickly. When it is browned, but not hardened, take off and butter generously. Lay on a cover of lettuce, next a piece of bacon, then your chicken, then your mayonnaise, then another piece of toast, piping hot. Then another pieces of lettuce, a slice of ham, a layer of tomato, chicken again, mayonnaise again, plenty of lettuce and your third slice of toast. A club sandwich, to be right, should always be three stories high, with bacon in one side and ham in the other. This sounds thick and clumsy, but it depends upon how you make it.” This is much more like the club sandwiches of today.
The fork and knife return! The Anthony Republican (KS), January 19, 1906, printed, “Club Sandwich. Butter two thin slices of bread, or better still, toast and butter then; on one slice place a thin piece of chicken or turkey breast, either roasted or stewed. Broil thin slice of ham and breakfast bacon, and while hot place on the other slice of bread. Scatter over the whole bit is chopped olives, dill pickles and one or two slices of hard boiled egg and bits of celery. Cover a fresh crisp lettuce leaf with Yacht Club salad dressing, place between the slices of bread, making a sandwich. (As this is rather bulky to ‘bite’ it must be eaten with a knife and fork, which is rather an insult to a sandwich.)”
The complexity of the club sandwich was referenced again. The Philadelphia Inquirer (PA), July 7, 1906, noted, “If possible, one should have an assistant in making club sandwiches, as they must be made as quickly as possible, in order to keep them hot and at the same time soft and fresh.” It was also mentioned in the Pittsburgh Press (PA), July 31, 1907, “The club sandwich is such an intricate affair nowadays, with its various layers of chicken and toast and bacon and lettuce and mayonnaise that it is hardly advisable for a picnic.”
Another cookbook provided a club sandwich recipe, this time using three slices of toast. How We Cook in Tennessee (1906), compiled by the Silver Thimble Society of the First Baptist Church, published, “Club Sandwiches—Three slices of bread, thinly cut in any desirable shape, toasted and buttered, are the basis of a club sandwich. Place a lettuce leaf on the lower slice, and on its top put slices of chicken breast, then put another slice of toast on top of that with another leaf of lettuce, followed by thin slices of broiled breakfast bacon, topped with a third slice of toasted bread. Finish the sandwich with thin slices (lengthwise) of small pickles, on top of the last slice of toast. The toasted bread and the breakfast bacon should be hot.”
However, the cookbook also had a different recipe for Club Sandwich, which used only two slices of toast, and a few other changes, like adding mayo and slice of tomato and canned chicken.
However, other cookbooks still clung to two slices of toast. Louis’ Salads & Chafing Dishes (1906) by Louis Muckensturm, stated, “Club Sandwich. Toast two slices of bread and cover them thinly with mayonnaise dressing. Place two slices of chicken, white meat only, on one piece of toast. On top of this place one or two lettuce leaves and sprinkle some salt over it. Put the other piece of toast on top of this, and press the sandwich together a little and trim nicely, and cur the sandwich in two triangles. Serve warm if possible. Sometimes thin slices of broiled bacon sliced tomatoes and even sliced pickles are added to the club sandwich. Bacon is acceptable, but if the two other articles are added this combination is superflouos.”
A brief joke was presented in the New York Times (NY), January 13, 1907: “Club Sandwich. Go to the club. Drink six toasts. Eat a slice of meat. Drink six more toasts.”
A club sandwich could mean something different in other regions. For example, the Washington Times (DC), January 2, 1908, claimed that, “When you order a club sandwich in Philadelphia you get a hamburger steak with a slice of onion on top of it.” Nowadays, hamburger club sandwiches are common, although they were rare back around 1908.
Another sandwich contest winner. The Chicago Tribune (IL), August 30, 1908, stated that the contest winning recipe was, “New Style Club Sandwich. Use three slices of bread, thinly cut in any desirable shape, and buttered. Place a lettuce leaf on lower slice and on its top put slices of chicken breast, then put another slice of bread and a lettuce leaf, followed by thin slices of veal loaf or peanut butter. Another slice of bread with thinly sliced pickles on top.” This recipe used three slices of toast, which might be the reason it was called “new style,” and the recipe was reprinted in many newspapers around the country.
Another contender for the inventor of the club sandwich. The New York Times, December 27, 1908, in an article previously in The Washington Herald and reprinted in many other newspapers across the country, stated, “Alan Johnstone is said to have originated the famous club sandwich, and the story runs that going to the club one night between midnight and daybreak, he invaded the larder, toasted himself some thick slices of bread, sliced them through, buttered them while hot and laid thereon everything he found in the refrigerator, cold chicken, ham and lettuce, with a spoonful of mayonaise. The result was such an epicurean discovery as it not often made, but the story was too good to keep; he confided the recipe to his cronies and it straightway became one of the popular dishes of the club menu, and so the father of the club sandwich, so deservedly popular is the present British minister to Copenhagen.”
No evidence was put forth for this claim, and the claim wasn’t repeated often after this time period. In addition, this article discussed a club sandwich which had already evolved from the original version, which makes it less credible. The club sandwich didn't appear fully formed, but it evolved from a single two ingredient sandwich.
The two-slice club sandwich was still popular and written about in The Rumford Complete Cook Book (1908) by Lily Haxworth Wallace. “Recipe for Club Sandwich. Toasted bread. Slices of bacon. White meat of chicken. Slices of tomato. Lettuce. Mayonnaise dressing. Butter lightly a slice of toast and lay on it slices of bacon cut very thin and well broiled. Over this place slices of the white meat of chicken, then tomato, lettuce and a good portion of mayonnaise. Lay another slice of buttered toast over the top and serve at once.”
But, other cookbooks continued to promote three slices. The Standard Domestic Science Cook Book (1908) by William H. Lee and Jennie A. Hansey, printed, “American Club Sandwich—Three slices this toast buttered. Remove crust if preferred. Cover first piece toast with thin slices of chicken, sprinkle sparingly with salt. Place second slice of toast on top, and on this layer place lettuce leaf and three strips of well browned bacon. Cover bacon with a little mayonnaise dressing, placing third piece of toast on top. A club sandwich should always be served with the toast and bacon hot.”
A strange article then appeared in the Muskogee Daily Phoenix & Times-Democrat (OK), January 8, 1909, alleging that the club sandwich was created by “two well know raconteurs,” including Captain Mitchell McDonald of the army and his social side partner, Judge John Campbell. However, much of the article was the same, word for word, as the previous article on Alan Johnstone. Why is that the case? Why are mainly the names different but the circumstances of its origin, its ingredients and preparation are the same? Again, these two names don’t arise again in later newspapers. And the same criticisms appear here as in the Alan Johnstone article.
A turkey shortage, of sorts again. The Omaha Daily News (NE), February 5, 1909, reported that “Club sandwiches have turkey in them no more, and some hotels and restaurants are eliminating turkey from the bill of fare, for the bird is 30 cents a pound at retail in Omaha. Last year at this time it was 22 cents a pound.” At least this time, club sandwiches haven’t been blamed for the high prices of turkey.
Another fanciful origin story, which should be taken with a grain of salt. The Retail Grocers’ Advocate (CA), August 6, 1909, stated, "It will not surprise any who know how frequently most excellent things are born of necessity to know that the club sandwich originated through accident. A man, we are told, arrived at his home one night after the family and servants had retired, and being hungry, sought the pantry and the ice chest in search of something to eat. There were remnants of many things in the source of supplies, but no one thing that seemed to be present in sufficient abundance to satisfy his appetite. The man wanted, anyway, some toast. So he toasted a couple of slices of bread. Then he looked for butter, and incidentally something to accompany the toast as a relish. Besides the butter he found mayonnaise, two or three slices of cold broiled bacon, and some pieces of cold chicken. These he put together on a slice of toast, and found, in a tomato, a complement for all the ingredients at hand. Then he capped his composition with a second slice of toast, ate, and was happy. And his success was too good to keep, so he told his family, the cook and all his friends, and since then the club sandwich has had an honored place with those who have once met it. The name ‘club’ was given to it through its adoption by a club of which the originator was a member. To his friends, also members of the club, he spoke of the sandwich, and they had one made, then and there, at the club, as an experiment, and referred to it afterward as the " club sandwich." As such, its name went out to other clubs, restaurants, and individuals, and as such it has remained. At least, this is the story as it is generally told."
There was also the, “Chicago Club Sandwich. Toast lightly two slices of white bread and one of rye; lightly butter and on the slices of white bread, place slices of cold cooked chicken and a couple of slices of bacon well crisped; cover with the slice of rye bread and on that place a lettuce lead that has been dipped in a little mayonnaise dressing; sprinkle with a little chopped green pepper, then cover with the other slice of white bread.”
And the: "Sardine Club Sandwich: Three slices of thinly cut white bread, toasted and buttered. Place a lettuce leaf that has been dipped in mayonnaise dressing on the lower slice, and on top of that put slices of broiled breakfast bacon, then put another slice of toast on top of that, with another lettuce leaf followed by boneless and skinless sardines split open, topped by a third slice of toasted bread. Garnish with slices of lemon cut very thin and dipped in finely chopped parsley.”
As well as the: “Turkey Club Sandwich. Toast three thin slices of white bread and butter, on the lower slice lay cold white breast of turkey; cover with another slice of toast; on that lay a thin slice of hot boiled ham; cover with another slice of buttered toast and press together. Serve on a lettuce leaf. Garnish with small pickles.”
And finally, the: “German Club Sandwich. Thin slices of pumpernickel, rye and white bread are used for this sandwich. Rub half a pound of smearcase until smooth, add three tablespoonfuls of thick cream and two of melted butter; season with pepper and salt. Spread some of this cheese mixture on a buttered slice of pumpernickel bread, followed by a slice of rye covered with the cheese, covered with a slice of buttered white bread. Garnish with slice of pickle.”
Nearly all of the club sandwich recipes called for three slices of toast, which may indicate that three slices was becoming more common, starting to surpass the two slice recipes.
The Yonkers Statesman (NY), February 21, 1910, noted, “There are some things in this world that can’t be done gracefully even by the daintiest and mot fastidious person, and eating a club sandwich seems to be one of those things.”
A brief mention of the club sandwich origins. The Pittsburgh Daily Post (PA), March 14, 1910, stated, “More than one famous dish is the result of accident, like the club sandwich, which represented the contents of the icebox put together to satisfy the appetite of a hungry man. Brains were not responsible for that combination.”
A lengthier discussion of the mystery of its origins was presented in the Norfolk Daily News (NE), July 14, 1910, which was just over 20 years since the Union Club sandwich made its public debut. The article was titled, The Club Sandwich—Why? Historians Say Mystery of the Three-Decker Can’t Be Solved, and it was originally printed in the Kansas City Star.
The article posed two important questions, “Who invented the club sandwich and what is the idea of using three slices of toast and two fillings?” For him, “The origin of the club sandwich is one great mystery.” He didn’t accept the identity of any of the potential candidates as the inventor of the club sandwich.
Next, the writer stated, “…I say that sandwiches should be eaten, not with the aid of a knife and fork, but with the fingers. Admitting this to be true, where is the man with soul so dead and a mouth large enough to get this triple deck between his teeth for the purpose of biting and masticating? It can’t be done.” For him, the sandwich was much too large.
He continued in that vein, “Furthermore, the third slice of toast is not alone superfluous, but it is unsanitary.” And then stated, “There is a slice of toast at the bottom, upon that the chicken and bacon filling, not forgetting the lettuce leaf; then another slice of toast, completing what we used to know as one ordinary sandwich, sufficiently large to satisfy a small appetite, and sufficiently small to permit or getting any one of its four corners into any fair sized mouth.”
In addition, the writer noted, “But with this newfangled sandwich, the chef doesn’t stop at the reasonable limits, but he goes ahead and adds more of the chicken and bacon filling, placing the third and final piece of toast at the top. But after you have taken the bottom two-thirds of this sandwich and eaten it with your fingers, you have only one slice of toast and the filling, and I’d like to have some healthy acrobat show me how it can be eaten with only one slice of toast with which to do it. I tell you there is no reasonable excuse for the architecture of the present day club sandwich, and if there is any rule for eating that third or final portion left one sided by the absence of a fourth slice of toast.”
As we see, two slices was still more of the norm in these recipes, with three slices more of a minor variation. That would slowly change over the coming years.
For example, the Blue Valley Blade (NE), May 18, 1904, briefly noted, “Ed Howe’s lecture entertainment is like a three-story club house sandwich; it is in three substantial layers with the most delectable parts in between.” So, we know some places were serving three slices of toast in their club sandwich, but most still only served two.
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During the early 20th century, when soda fountains were common and popular, they often created sundaes and drinks that reflected various popular foods, like the Chop Suey Sundae I previously wrote about. Thus, it’s not surprising that the Argus-Leader (SD), July 15, 1904, briefly noted that the “new Club Sandwich Sundae” was available at a spot called Dunnings. No description of the sundae was given.
The Club Sandwich Sundae was mentioned briefly, and not described, in several subsequent newspapers, such as the Harrisburg Telegraph (PA), September 21, 1906, which had an ad for Dives, Pomeroy & Stewart where a Club Sandwich Sundae cost 15 cents.
A description of the sundae finally appeared. The Dispenser Soda Water Guide by The Soda Fountain (2nd edition, 1909) presented the recipe for the Club Sandwich Sundae, stating, “A club sandwich sundae is a new acquisition to the soda water trade and one that comes first among the many innovations introduced by warm weather. Have an individual mold made by a tinsmith. He may use for a model a small ice cream sandwich mold, making it three inches wide and two and one-half inches long. Have the bottom plate made to fit very closely and perfectly flat on the inside so as not to retain any soft cream or water that may accumulate during the rush hours. Take two saucers, one smaller than the other, put a napkin between them, place a fresh, crisp lettuce leaf on the top saucer, then proceed with the sundae. Cut a slice of orange, trim all the rind off carefully and put it on the bottom of the mold. Place a crème de menthe cherry in each corner and fill mold half full of vanilla ice cream. Then cover with two Nabisco wafers, several slices of pineapple (crème de rose pineapple adds to the color scheme), and fill balance of mild with orange sherbet or water ice. Press firmly, turn our and place before your customer.”
It’s an interesting sundae, and the use of a lettuce leaf at the bottom does give it a bit of a tie-in to the sandwich. Otherwise, all of the other ingredients don’t bring to mind the sandwich, except for the intricate construction of the sundae, trying to make it more like a sandwich with the mold.
Other recipes for club sandwich sundaes existed too. In the Rockford Republic (IL), January 25, 1912, it was reported that Ralph Hay, in charge of the soda fountain at Lewis Branch, had won a contest, held by the Soda Fountain Magazine, for his club sandwich sundae. Unfortunately, the recipe wasn’t provided. Additional brief mentions of the Club Sandwich Sundae appeared in the Repository (OH), April 7, 1912, Knoxville Sentinel (TN), November 26, 1913, Green Bay Press-Gazette (WI), June 26, 1915, and the Times-Tribune (PA), May 11, 1917.
Another variation of the Club Sandwich Sundae was presented. The National Druggist, volume 42, September 1912, provided, “Club Sandwich Sundae. Place a slice of vanilla ice cream on a plate, place over this two sweet wafers, and over them a slice of chocolate ice cream, giving a perfect sandwich. This sandwich is sometimes served on a lettuce leaf. Chopped nuts and fruits may also be used for fillers, likewise sliced apple, sliced orange (relived of rind), and other sliced fruits. Sliced banana answers the purpose well, as it may be eaten easily with a spoon, a point to be kept in mind. If you will have a sandwich mold made, you can get very elaborate effects.” This is similar in a number of respects to the first detailed recipe.
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As a brief aside, the Evansville Journal (IN), August 26, 1904, mentioned that “Pickles are a necessary article in the club sandwich of commerce,..” Although some recipes did call for pickles inside the sandwich, or as a garnish, they didn’t appear to be necessary, and more just a variation.
The popularity of club sandwiches allegedly impacted the cost of turkey! The Yonkers Herald (NY), November 22, 1904, reported that, “The appetizing ‘club sandwich’ is largely responsible for the high price of turkeys in New York this Fall, according to a statement made yesterday by a member of the poultry commission house of Heineman Brothers in Washington street.” It was noted that, “The extraordinary popularity of the club sandwich, said Me. Heineman, ‘has been attained within the last year and a half. It was served every day last Summer in all the fashionable hotels and restaurants in this city. Every ‘club sandwich’ has a slice of turkey in it, and the enormous number consumed has had an appreciable effect on the turkey supply.” It was also added that broiled turkey, another fad, had contributed to the turkey shortage.
The sandwich had achieved great popularity in New York, and it seemed that turkey, rather than chicken, was the bird of choice for the club sandwich. This article also notes how it was a very good summer sandwich.
Another cookbook presented its own recipe. How To Cook for the Sick & Convalescent by Helena Viola Sachse (2nd edition, 1904, gave two Club Sandwich recipes: The first stated, “Toast lightly (on one side only) two square slices of bread. Spread with butter and on one piece place a slice of chicken and a slice of tongue (or several slices of any desired cold meat). Season lightly, then cover thickly with shredded lettuce; garnish with mayonnaise dressing. Place the other slice of bread on the top (toasted side up). Serve with a knife and fork.” The second recipe was similar although the bread was softened with liquid, likely to make it more palatable to those who were ill and had difficulty eating.
Still a dainty sandwich. The New York-Tribune (NY), January 8, 1905, mentioned, “A club sandwich has a roystering sound to the feminine ear, but in reality its composition is of the daintiest: Two thin slices of delicately browned toast; between them a thin slice of carefully broiled ham, the fast crisp and brown; a thicker slice from the breast of chicken, and a lettuce leaf touched with mayonnaise.” Still, just two slices of bread.
Another recipe, but still with only two slices. Home & Abroad, Volume 61, Part 1, Boston (May 27, 1905), stated, “Rightly made, a club sandwich has been known to create a reputation for the maker. The ideal club sandwich is made thus: Take fresh and very light wheat bread, remove the crust and cut the loaf into thin slices. Toast the bread a delicate brown, and be careful that it does not get dry and hard while being kept hot. Toast for a club sandwich should be as far as possible from the popular zwieback or hard toast. Dip one side of the bread in melted butter, place it on a platter, on the toast lay a crisp lettuce leaf, then a thin slice of broiled ham or a thin rasher of bacon, according to preference; then a slice of turkey or chicken, combining light and dark meat harmoniously; season with salt and pepper; lay on another lettuce leaf, and crown with a second slice of toast. Press together, cut triangular shape, and send to the table at once, with a well made mayonnaise in another dish.”
In brief, the Democrat & Chronicle (NY), July 30, 1905, noted “..very popular with regular city picnickers is the club sandwich made with ham.”
The third slice appeared again. The Washington Post (DC), August 12, 1905, first began with a discussion of the toast. “Bread should be just browned, not toasted in the oven or in an ordinary toaster.” It then continued with the ingredients, “Have ready some slices of mealy chicken, without a grain of toughness in it; some broiled ham, some crisp bacon, some fresh and young lettuce, some mayonnaise dressing, and a hot pot of coffee. If you like then, some thin slices of tomato, or better still, the tomato pulp crushed.”
For the preparation, “Now, throw your bread on the lid of a hot stove, and the minute it begins to smoke turn it quickly. When it is browned, but not hardened, take off and butter generously. Lay on a cover of lettuce, next a piece of bacon, then your chicken, then your mayonnaise, then another piece of toast, piping hot. Then another pieces of lettuce, a slice of ham, a layer of tomato, chicken again, mayonnaise again, plenty of lettuce and your third slice of toast. A club sandwich, to be right, should always be three stories high, with bacon in one side and ham in the other. This sounds thick and clumsy, but it depends upon how you make it.” This is much more like the club sandwiches of today.
The fork and knife return! The Anthony Republican (KS), January 19, 1906, printed, “Club Sandwich. Butter two thin slices of bread, or better still, toast and butter then; on one slice place a thin piece of chicken or turkey breast, either roasted or stewed. Broil thin slice of ham and breakfast bacon, and while hot place on the other slice of bread. Scatter over the whole bit is chopped olives, dill pickles and one or two slices of hard boiled egg and bits of celery. Cover a fresh crisp lettuce leaf with Yacht Club salad dressing, place between the slices of bread, making a sandwich. (As this is rather bulky to ‘bite’ it must be eaten with a knife and fork, which is rather an insult to a sandwich.)”
The complexity of the club sandwich was referenced again. The Philadelphia Inquirer (PA), July 7, 1906, noted, “If possible, one should have an assistant in making club sandwiches, as they must be made as quickly as possible, in order to keep them hot and at the same time soft and fresh.” It was also mentioned in the Pittsburgh Press (PA), July 31, 1907, “The club sandwich is such an intricate affair nowadays, with its various layers of chicken and toast and bacon and lettuce and mayonnaise that it is hardly advisable for a picnic.”
Another cookbook provided a club sandwich recipe, this time using three slices of toast. How We Cook in Tennessee (1906), compiled by the Silver Thimble Society of the First Baptist Church, published, “Club Sandwiches—Three slices of bread, thinly cut in any desirable shape, toasted and buttered, are the basis of a club sandwich. Place a lettuce leaf on the lower slice, and on its top put slices of chicken breast, then put another slice of toast on top of that with another leaf of lettuce, followed by thin slices of broiled breakfast bacon, topped with a third slice of toasted bread. Finish the sandwich with thin slices (lengthwise) of small pickles, on top of the last slice of toast. The toasted bread and the breakfast bacon should be hot.”
However, the cookbook also had a different recipe for Club Sandwich, which used only two slices of toast, and a few other changes, like adding mayo and slice of tomato and canned chicken.
However, other cookbooks still clung to two slices of toast. Louis’ Salads & Chafing Dishes (1906) by Louis Muckensturm, stated, “Club Sandwich. Toast two slices of bread and cover them thinly with mayonnaise dressing. Place two slices of chicken, white meat only, on one piece of toast. On top of this place one or two lettuce leaves and sprinkle some salt over it. Put the other piece of toast on top of this, and press the sandwich together a little and trim nicely, and cur the sandwich in two triangles. Serve warm if possible. Sometimes thin slices of broiled bacon sliced tomatoes and even sliced pickles are added to the club sandwich. Bacon is acceptable, but if the two other articles are added this combination is superflouos.”
A brief joke was presented in the New York Times (NY), January 13, 1907: “Club Sandwich. Go to the club. Drink six toasts. Eat a slice of meat. Drink six more toasts.”
A club sandwich could mean something different in other regions. For example, the Washington Times (DC), January 2, 1908, claimed that, “When you order a club sandwich in Philadelphia you get a hamburger steak with a slice of onion on top of it.” Nowadays, hamburger club sandwiches are common, although they were rare back around 1908.
Another sandwich contest winner. The Chicago Tribune (IL), August 30, 1908, stated that the contest winning recipe was, “New Style Club Sandwich. Use three slices of bread, thinly cut in any desirable shape, and buttered. Place a lettuce leaf on lower slice and on its top put slices of chicken breast, then put another slice of bread and a lettuce leaf, followed by thin slices of veal loaf or peanut butter. Another slice of bread with thinly sliced pickles on top.” This recipe used three slices of toast, which might be the reason it was called “new style,” and the recipe was reprinted in many newspapers around the country.
Another contender for the inventor of the club sandwich. The New York Times, December 27, 1908, in an article previously in The Washington Herald and reprinted in many other newspapers across the country, stated, “Alan Johnstone is said to have originated the famous club sandwich, and the story runs that going to the club one night between midnight and daybreak, he invaded the larder, toasted himself some thick slices of bread, sliced them through, buttered them while hot and laid thereon everything he found in the refrigerator, cold chicken, ham and lettuce, with a spoonful of mayonaise. The result was such an epicurean discovery as it not often made, but the story was too good to keep; he confided the recipe to his cronies and it straightway became one of the popular dishes of the club menu, and so the father of the club sandwich, so deservedly popular is the present British minister to Copenhagen.”
No evidence was put forth for this claim, and the claim wasn’t repeated often after this time period. In addition, this article discussed a club sandwich which had already evolved from the original version, which makes it less credible. The club sandwich didn't appear fully formed, but it evolved from a single two ingredient sandwich.
The two-slice club sandwich was still popular and written about in The Rumford Complete Cook Book (1908) by Lily Haxworth Wallace. “Recipe for Club Sandwich. Toasted bread. Slices of bacon. White meat of chicken. Slices of tomato. Lettuce. Mayonnaise dressing. Butter lightly a slice of toast and lay on it slices of bacon cut very thin and well broiled. Over this place slices of the white meat of chicken, then tomato, lettuce and a good portion of mayonnaise. Lay another slice of buttered toast over the top and serve at once.”
But, other cookbooks continued to promote three slices. The Standard Domestic Science Cook Book (1908) by William H. Lee and Jennie A. Hansey, printed, “American Club Sandwich—Three slices this toast buttered. Remove crust if preferred. Cover first piece toast with thin slices of chicken, sprinkle sparingly with salt. Place second slice of toast on top, and on this layer place lettuce leaf and three strips of well browned bacon. Cover bacon with a little mayonnaise dressing, placing third piece of toast on top. A club sandwich should always be served with the toast and bacon hot.”
A strange article then appeared in the Muskogee Daily Phoenix & Times-Democrat (OK), January 8, 1909, alleging that the club sandwich was created by “two well know raconteurs,” including Captain Mitchell McDonald of the army and his social side partner, Judge John Campbell. However, much of the article was the same, word for word, as the previous article on Alan Johnstone. Why is that the case? Why are mainly the names different but the circumstances of its origin, its ingredients and preparation are the same? Again, these two names don’t arise again in later newspapers. And the same criticisms appear here as in the Alan Johnstone article.
A turkey shortage, of sorts again. The Omaha Daily News (NE), February 5, 1909, reported that “Club sandwiches have turkey in them no more, and some hotels and restaurants are eliminating turkey from the bill of fare, for the bird is 30 cents a pound at retail in Omaha. Last year at this time it was 22 cents a pound.” At least this time, club sandwiches haven’t been blamed for the high prices of turkey.
Another fanciful origin story, which should be taken with a grain of salt. The Retail Grocers’ Advocate (CA), August 6, 1909, stated, "It will not surprise any who know how frequently most excellent things are born of necessity to know that the club sandwich originated through accident. A man, we are told, arrived at his home one night after the family and servants had retired, and being hungry, sought the pantry and the ice chest in search of something to eat. There were remnants of many things in the source of supplies, but no one thing that seemed to be present in sufficient abundance to satisfy his appetite. The man wanted, anyway, some toast. So he toasted a couple of slices of bread. Then he looked for butter, and incidentally something to accompany the toast as a relish. Besides the butter he found mayonnaise, two or three slices of cold broiled bacon, and some pieces of cold chicken. These he put together on a slice of toast, and found, in a tomato, a complement for all the ingredients at hand. Then he capped his composition with a second slice of toast, ate, and was happy. And his success was too good to keep, so he told his family, the cook and all his friends, and since then the club sandwich has had an honored place with those who have once met it. The name ‘club’ was given to it through its adoption by a club of which the originator was a member. To his friends, also members of the club, he spoke of the sandwich, and they had one made, then and there, at the club, as an experiment, and referred to it afterward as the " club sandwich." As such, its name went out to other clubs, restaurants, and individuals, and as such it has remained. At least, this is the story as it is generally told."
As I've already mentioned, the club sandwich evolved over time, and didn't suddenly appear fully formed, with lettuce, tomatoes, mayonnaise, etc. So, this tale is clearly fiction, a fun story but not the reality of the invention of the club sandwich.
As I've mentioned previously, there were a number of variations of the club sandwich, and some were codified in The Up-To-Date Sandwich Book: 400 Ways To Make a Sandwich (1909) by Eva Green Fuller. Nine different club sandwiches were listed such as the Ham & Egg Club Sandwich, Boston Club Sandwich, Sheridan Park Club Sandwich, Colonial Club Sandwich, and Country Club Sandwich.
As I've mentioned previously, there were a number of variations of the club sandwich, and some were codified in The Up-To-Date Sandwich Book: 400 Ways To Make a Sandwich (1909) by Eva Green Fuller. Nine different club sandwiches were listed such as the Ham & Egg Club Sandwich, Boston Club Sandwich, Sheridan Park Club Sandwich, Colonial Club Sandwich, and Country Club Sandwich.
There was also the, “Chicago Club Sandwich. Toast lightly two slices of white bread and one of rye; lightly butter and on the slices of white bread, place slices of cold cooked chicken and a couple of slices of bacon well crisped; cover with the slice of rye bread and on that place a lettuce lead that has been dipped in a little mayonnaise dressing; sprinkle with a little chopped green pepper, then cover with the other slice of white bread.”
And the: "Sardine Club Sandwich: Three slices of thinly cut white bread, toasted and buttered. Place a lettuce leaf that has been dipped in mayonnaise dressing on the lower slice, and on top of that put slices of broiled breakfast bacon, then put another slice of toast on top of that, with another lettuce leaf followed by boneless and skinless sardines split open, topped by a third slice of toasted bread. Garnish with slices of lemon cut very thin and dipped in finely chopped parsley.”
As well as the: “Turkey Club Sandwich. Toast three thin slices of white bread and butter, on the lower slice lay cold white breast of turkey; cover with another slice of toast; on that lay a thin slice of hot boiled ham; cover with another slice of buttered toast and press together. Serve on a lettuce leaf. Garnish with small pickles.”
And finally, the: “German Club Sandwich. Thin slices of pumpernickel, rye and white bread are used for this sandwich. Rub half a pound of smearcase until smooth, add three tablespoonfuls of thick cream and two of melted butter; season with pepper and salt. Spread some of this cheese mixture on a buttered slice of pumpernickel bread, followed by a slice of rye covered with the cheese, covered with a slice of buttered white bread. Garnish with slice of pickle.”
Nearly all of the club sandwich recipes called for three slices of toast, which may indicate that three slices was becoming more common, starting to surpass the two slice recipes.
The Yonkers Statesman (NY), February 21, 1910, noted, “There are some things in this world that can’t be done gracefully even by the daintiest and mot fastidious person, and eating a club sandwich seems to be one of those things.”
A brief mention of the club sandwich origins. The Pittsburgh Daily Post (PA), March 14, 1910, stated, “More than one famous dish is the result of accident, like the club sandwich, which represented the contents of the icebox put together to satisfy the appetite of a hungry man. Brains were not responsible for that combination.”
A lengthier discussion of the mystery of its origins was presented in the Norfolk Daily News (NE), July 14, 1910, which was just over 20 years since the Union Club sandwich made its public debut. The article was titled, The Club Sandwich—Why? Historians Say Mystery of the Three-Decker Can’t Be Solved, and it was originally printed in the Kansas City Star.
The article posed two important questions, “Who invented the club sandwich and what is the idea of using three slices of toast and two fillings?” For him, “The origin of the club sandwich is one great mystery.” He didn’t accept the identity of any of the potential candidates as the inventor of the club sandwich.
Next, the writer stated, “…I say that sandwiches should be eaten, not with the aid of a knife and fork, but with the fingers. Admitting this to be true, where is the man with soul so dead and a mouth large enough to get this triple deck between his teeth for the purpose of biting and masticating? It can’t be done.” For him, the sandwich was much too large.
He continued in that vein, “Furthermore, the third slice of toast is not alone superfluous, but it is unsanitary.” And then stated, “There is a slice of toast at the bottom, upon that the chicken and bacon filling, not forgetting the lettuce leaf; then another slice of toast, completing what we used to know as one ordinary sandwich, sufficiently large to satisfy a small appetite, and sufficiently small to permit or getting any one of its four corners into any fair sized mouth.”
In addition, the writer noted, “But with this newfangled sandwich, the chef doesn’t stop at the reasonable limits, but he goes ahead and adds more of the chicken and bacon filling, placing the third and final piece of toast at the top. But after you have taken the bottom two-thirds of this sandwich and eaten it with your fingers, you have only one slice of toast and the filling, and I’d like to have some healthy acrobat show me how it can be eaten with only one slice of toast with which to do it. I tell you there is no reasonable excuse for the architecture of the present day club sandwich, and if there is any rule for eating that third or final portion left one sided by the absence of a fourth slice of toast.”
The third slice continues to be more prominent, a sign that the time of the two-slice club was waning.
To Be Continued...
Check out Part One
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