Slavonia: A Hidden Treasure for Tourists in Croatia

During my last journey to Croatia, after our visit to the Plešivica region, we headed inland to the region of Slavonia, often referred to as the "bread basket of Croatia."  This region borders Bosnia-Herzegovina to the south, Serbia to the east, and Hungary to the north. Its borders are also roughly formed by three rivers, including the Danube, Sava, and Drava. When many people think of the Danube, they don't realize that it extends through Croatia.

Despite its importance to Croatia, and plenty of locations which should attract tourists, few from the U.S. ever venture to Slavonia. For example, in 2021, approximately 284,000 American tourists visited Croatia but a paltry 1200 of those tourists ventured to Slavonia. The majority instead visited Dalmatia, enjoying the gorgeous beaches and vibrant nightlife. Dalmatia also gets far more media attention, so it is the region most familiar to Americans. Slavonia though deserve more attention. 

I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Slavonia, visiting excellent wineries, dining on delicious food, and immersing myself in its fascinating history. The region is making efforts to increase its allure for tourists, and I'd highly recommend people seeking to visit some place different, to take some time and explore Slavonia.  

In the ancient past, the Slavonian region was settled by tribes including the Illyrians and Pannonians, who were later conquered by the Romans. The Romans then named the area Pannonnia, which wouldn't really change until the Early Middle Ages, when it became known as Slavonia, after the Slavs who settled there and referred to themselves as Slověne. 

As I mentioned, this region is referred to as “breadbasket of Croatia,” because about 45% of the agricultural lands in Croatia are located here. Much of the region is flat, with huge fields and farms, and there's a common, humorous saying that "the highest mountain you'll find in Slavonia is a cabbage." However, there are actually some small hills in this area, although as you drive through the area, you might not suspect it. 

A couple of the highlights of Slavonia include the Stud Farm in Dakovo, which breeds the famed Lipizzaner horses. The farm was established back in 1506, and has bred Lipizzaner horses since the early 19th century. The Papuk Nature Park, Croatia's first geopark, is perfect for those who enjoy outdoor activities, including hiking, biking, mountain climbing and more. You'll also find some quaint villages, intriguing museums, delicious restaurants, exciting wineries, and much more.

There's also a more somber aspect of Slavonia. The Croatian War For Independence, also known as the Homeland War, was fought from 1991-1995 as Croatians sought independence from Yugoslavia, many of whose forces in the Slavonian region were Serbs. Slavonia saw the greatest amount of combat during this war, including the infamous Battle of Vukovar. Thousands died during the war, including prisoners of war and civilians in the Vukovar Massacre. Much of the city was also damaged or destroyed, and one reminder of that time is the Vukovar Water Tower, pictured above, which has been preserved, as is, as a reminder of the war. 

The war, which ended less than 30 years ago, still has an impact on the region, especially considering how many people still have vivid memories of those dark times. 

This region is also well know for its wine, and vines have been grown here since at least the third century. It's also home to the oldest wine cellar, from 1232, in Croatia, located at the Kutjevo Winery, which I visited on my trip. The Erdut Winery possesses the largest wine barrel in the world, and I got to witness that cyclopean barrel. Other excellent wineries I visited included Krauthaker, Galic, Ilok, and more. 

The most important grape in Slavonia, as well as the most widely planted grape in all of Croatia, is Graševina, a white grape also known as Welschriesling in Austria and Riesling Italico in Italy. I drank many examples of Graševina in Slavonia, as well as attended a Graševina festival, and found that the grape produces simple, easy drinking whites as well as more complex and fascinating examples. Continued research and experimentation are ongoing with this grape, and its quality will only improve over time. I'll have much more to say about Graševina in future articles about my experiences with these wines. 

This area is also famed for Slavonian oak barrels; which are tightly grained and considered more neutral than French oak, allowing the grapes and terroir to shine, without being obscured by oak. Slavonian oak also gives wines more structure and helps allow the wine to age for a lengthy time. Their oak forests are managed sustainably, and many of the wineries we visited commonly used Slavonian barrels to age their wines. 

Slavonian cuisine differs from other parts of Croatia, as it contains influences from Hungary (which are particularly strong), Turkey, the Middle East, and elsewhere. You'll find lots of pork products, smoked meats, pickled vegetables, river fish, and stews, with a strong use of paprika. Kulen is a famed pork sausage, spiced with paprika, with the best versions made from the Black Slavonian Pig. I enjoyed plenty of Kulen in Slavonia, and loved its spicy flavor. Fiš Paprika (pictured above) is a freshwater fish stew spiced with paprika, and it too has a spicy and delicious broth. 

This is but a brief summary of some of the highlights of Slavonia, and I'll be expanding on a number of these points in the coming weeks as I detail my experiences exploring this region. I hope to bring attention to Slavonia, and persuade people why its a worthy tourist destination.