Truffle Hunting In Istria

Italy is well known for truffles, both black and white, yet did you know that truffles are also found in Croatia? Although truffles are found in various regions of Croatia, they are most famous in Istria, especially near the village of Motovun. During our time in Istria, during our two-week journey to Croatia, we ate a number of dishes flavored with shaved truffles, and also engaged in a truffle hunting expedition. 

In short, truffles are an edible fungi that grow underground, and are commonly divided into black and white truffles, although the actual color of the flesh of the truffle can vary. They are usually found in valleys and wooded areas, especially near watercourses. For many centuries, pigs were trained to sniff out and locate truffles. However, pigs also loved to eat truffles, and it could be very difficult to stop them from eating a truffle that they located. Over time, truffle hunters started to use dogs instead of pigs to find truffles. You might not realize that truffles have very little taste, and it is their smell which is actually the alluring aspect. 

The Motovun Forest, once called St. Mark's Forest, is famous for its white truffles. Most of the truffles found in the Motovun region, are first sent to Livade, a village known as the "Center of the Truffle World." In the late 1920s. the Croatian Truffle Institute, an independent scientific and research institution, was established in Livade, with the objective of promoting, preserving and scientifically studying the Croatian truffle. During the 1930s, the first commercial companies dealing in truffles were founded in Livade. Livade has retained its importance to the truffle trade.

  

We went on a brief truffle hunting expedition with Nikola Tarandek (pictured above), who runs his own truffle hunting business. A former civil engineer, Nikola eventually decided to retire and become a truffle hunter. He was very personable, a fine guide for our truffle hunt.

On the day of the hunt, Nikola had three dogs, all mutts, named Nero, Zero and Micki. He trained them at home, and stated it is best to start when they are puppies, when truffle can be placed on the mother's nipples. Eventually, they will be tossed items with a truffle smell, and then those items will be buried, so the dog will learn how to dig for them. The training period can range from weeks to years. Even though female dogs learn faster, Nikola believes the male dogs are best in the end. 

Nikola currently owns seven dogs, and noted that the older dogs help to train the younger ones. It is important to maintain control of the dogs as they too will eat truffles, and Nikola wants whole truffles, and not truffles that have been bitten and broken apart. The larger truffles garner the best prices, so when part of a truffle is uncovered, he has to be very careful when removing it, as you never know its size until it has been completely dug up. White truffles garner a price about 10 times as much as a black truffle. 

Sometimes, one dog might pass by a hidden truffle but another dog will find it. Truffles also seem to be usually found where mushrooms are not found. If you want to engage in truffle hunting on public land, you need a license. Nikola also believes it's important to cover up a truffle hole, as one never knows if another truffle might spawn from that place. Nikola sells truffles all over the world, as well as working with an agency in Hong Kong, especially to bring Chinese tourists on truffle hunts in Istria. 

In addition, he regaled us with a story of Nero, who he entered into a truffle hunting competition where the dogs had to find the most truffles. Nero came in last, checking each of the thirty holes, but that's because he is an extremely careful dog. And that is much better than speed. 

During the course of our hunt, the dogs went off, exploring the woods, sniffing for truffles, digging in the dirt a few times. We followed their general path, hoping they might uncover a truffle. However, in the end, the dogs didn't locate any truffles, but it was a fun experience nonetheless. 

On some other truffle hunts, they pre-bury truffles so a successful hunt is guaranteed. Nikola once engaged in this practice, but decided against it after a time. He wants the hunt to be more real, more authentic, and I agree with his sentiment. His groups have found truffles in the past, but we just weren't lucky on our trek. I would recommend Nikola Tarandek if you'd like a truffle hunt while you are in the Motovun region.