Rossi Teranino: A Fine Istrian Liqueur

As I previously mentioned, while I was in Zagreb, during my two week tour of Croatia, I stopped at L'Erotic Fruit & Spices Shop, and purchased a couple Istrian liqueurs. One of those was the Rossi Teranino (about $20), which was produced by the Rossi Winery & Distillery, located in the village of Vižinada in Istria, a short distance west of Motovun.

The history of Rossi extends back to 1885, when Federico Rossi, who was born in Friuli, bought some land, planting Teran and Malvazija. His son, Marco, continued to plant vineyards, as well as other fruits and vegetables. In addition to making wine, Federico also produced brandy. When Italy took control of Istria after World War I, they prohibited the production of brandy and other strong alcoholic beverages, but that didn't stop Federico, who continued to make it covertly. Today, the family continues to make wine and liqueurs, although now it is all legal. 

Teranino is a traditional liqueur made in Istria, usually produced from pomace or fruit brandy, as well as red wine made from the indigenous Teran grape. Teranino is also usually sweetened and flavored with various botanicals, each producer using their own unique blend. With a 18-22% ABV, it is commonly served chilled, as either an aperitif or digestive, although it may also go well with chocolate or berry desserts. 

The Rossi Teranino is made with an unknown combination of botanicals, although you might be able to identify some of them from the taste. On the nose, there are elements of blueberry and black cherry, with a hint of spice notes. On the palate, it is smooth and sweet, although well balanced with good acidity, with a complex blend of flavors, including blueberry, black cherry, vanilla, cinnamon, and a touch of clove. There is a mild earthiness as well, especially on the finish. Quite delicious, it would pair well with a variety of desserts, or make for a nice after-dinner drink. 

Don't just explore Croatian wines, but also check out their liqueurs and spirits.

Vina Fakin: "Teran Is His Life Blood"

While visiting the region of Istria, on our two week tour of Croatia, we spent a couple days in Motovun and the surrounding area. During this time, we met the charismatic Marko Fakin, the owner and winemaker at Vina Fakin, which is located in the foothills below Motovun. Within Motovun, Marko also owns Konoba Fakin, as well as Enoteka Fakin, a wine, truffle and olive oil shop. 

We first met Marko in Motovun, and then went with him to visit a couple of his vineyards and then his winery. Overall, I found Marko to be personable and passionate, young and ambitious. He was also down-to-earth, knowledgeable, and very skilled at wine making. He made you feel very welcome. 

Marko's family has lived in the same local village for at least 300 years, so his roots in Istria run deep, and his wife was also born in a nearby village. Marko's interest in wine started at a young age. As a small child, Marko would ride on his father's tractor while he worked their small 7.5 acre vineyard. His father sold the grapes to other local producers.  

Prior to the Homeland War, his father's vineyard, and others in the region, were part of a cooperative. However, after the War, the cooperative dissolved and the vineyards were split into seven parts, which Vina Fakin would eventually try to purchase. 

Marko graduated from wine school around 2010-2011, and he noted that it primarily taught you how to tend a vineyard during good conditions. Thus, you had to learn how to handle problems on your own as they came, gaining experience each year. He also stated that if you make a mistake on year, you have to ensure that you don't repeat it the next year. In winemaking, you only acquire experience once a year, rather than on a constant basis like other professions. 

Marko started producing wines in 2010, using grapes from 10 acres of family vineyards, and made about 2000 bottles, 50% Teran and 50% Malvazija Istarska. He sold his wines at local farmers' markets, and used his garage as a tasting room. And he excelled from the start, winning a Croatian wine award for his Teran, and also was recognized as Winemaker of the Year.

Currently, Marko owns about 50 hectares of vineyards, most recently buying 4 hectares in Spring 2022, although he doesn't foresee much more growth. He stated that their biggest problem in the vineyards is humidity, so he generally needs to plant at higher altitudes to avoid low fogs, or plant on the southern side. Wild boars are also a problem, as they can easily devour 1-2 kilograms of grapes at a time. 

Some of his vineyards have vines that are as much as 100 years old, some of the oldest vines in commercial use in the region. They have cut about 70% of the quantity of their red grapes, primarily Teran, to improve its quality. For example, they used to get yields of 5 kilograms but have drastically decreased that amount to 1/2 to 1 kilogram. His wines also have excellent acidity. 

The winery produces about 50/50 red and white wines, and it has a capacity of 150,000 bottles, although they only produce about 120,000 bottles currently. He does have plans to construct a new winery, to make it larger. Marko's original plan was to produce only 50,000 bottles, but that has changed, and although Marko claims he is about at his limit now, it's certainly possible he could expand more in the future. 

They have 10 labels, mostly Malvazija Istarska and Teran, although they have recently planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Syrah, to prove they can so. However, they will have to wait 5 years until wines with those grapes will be allowed on the market. One of Marko's goals is to make a "Super Istrian" blend, using Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Teran.

Marko also grows numerous olive trees, indigenous Croatian varieties, and produces about 1500 liters of olive oil each year.

As Marko stated, "Teran is his life blood." Teran is not an easy grape to work with, especially in the vineyard, which has caused him to cut down the harvested amounts for extra quality. Marko desires to make a variety of new types of Teran. For example, he wants to make more fresh Terans wines, although this is the hardest style to make as you need to throw out many grapes. He also wants to make Teran wines with longer maceration, such as one year of skin contact. 

He currently makes an Amarone-style Teran, commonly with grapes dried on vines, or sometimes on grass mats. He also makes a Teran Rosé. Marko doesn't grow Refosco even though it grows well in the region. Marko also noted that Teran pairs very well with the strong aromas of Istrian truffles.

A big, friendly wine dog!

We toured the winery, and Marko noted that they use French oak as well as Acacia barrels. The winery is small, and compact, so I can understand why Marko wants to construct a new winery, making it more spacious.

Marko sometimes uses amphora, mostly for whites grapes (although sometimes red), producing interesting amber/orange wines. 

In their tasting room, we sampled the 2018 Fakin Teran "Michel," a limited edition red wine (of only 1200 bottles) made in an Amarone style. This is their most expensive wine, at 100 Euros, and one of the most expensive Croatian wines I saw in my travels. The grapes came from the Flaminio single vineyard, which was planted in 1972, so the grapes are about 50 years old. The grapes dried on the vine, and had to be hand harvested very quickly. 

The grapes spent 50 days with skin contact & fermentation, and then the wine was aged in amphora for a year and then in used barrique for another year. Natural yeast was used, and the shape of the amphora helped to move around the yeast more easily. The wine isn't made very year, and prior vintages included 2011 and 2015, with planned releases for the 2020 and 2021 vintages as well. 

With a 16% ABV, this is a big wine, yet not a powerhouse, being very well-balanced. It possesses an alluring aroma of black fruits and mild spice and a dark red, almost purple color. On the palate, it's dry and smooth, with good acidity, rich and complex flavors of ripe plum, black cherry, and blackberry, along with subtle spice notes. It has a long, lingering and pleasing finish, and is considered a young wine which will age very well. I was told that 2027 would be the prime time for drinking this wine. An impressive wine, even in its youth, and clear evidence of Marko's skills, as well as the vast potential of Teran. 

I purchased a bottle of this wine, believing it was worth the price, and will let it sit in my cellar, waiting for 2027. Highly recommended, although it would likely be difficult for many people to obtain a bottle of such a limited edition wine.

When we stayed in Motovun, we were a very short walk to Konoba and Enoteka Fakin. The Konoba opened in 2005, and their new chef previously worked at a Michelin star restaurant. They currently have 17 full-time employees at the konoba, and 18 employees at the winery. Marko explained the main difference between a konoba and a restaurant, noting that a konoba served larger portions.  

Their Konoba has patio tables, overlooking the Mirna River Valley. As I mentioned previously, there are numerous feral cats in this area, hoping that diners will feed them. And sometimes they walk atop the wall, very close to the tables, so you need to keep an eye on them just in case they try to steal food off your plate. The cats are generally friendly, especially if you give them a taste of your food.

We stopped for lunch at the Konoba Fakin, and had our choice of two dishes. I opted for the Risotto with boletus, black truffles, and Istrian prosciutto chips. What an amazing dish, with perfectly cooked risotto, creamy and flavorful, with earthy notes from the mushrooms and the compelling aromas of the truffles. And those prosciutto chips were crispy, meaty and salty. A well balanced and delicious dish. 

The other option was the Fuži pasta with black truffles, which was also quite tasty. This is a common dish in Istria, showing its Italian influences. 

With lunch, we enjoyed the 2021 Fakin Malvazija Istarska, with a 13% ABV which only spent 6 months aging in stainless steel. It was fresh and bright, with juicy peach and citrus flavors, a backbone of minerality, and a pleasant finish. 

After lunch, we had some free time which I used to further explore Motovun. Later that evening, we returned to Konoba Fakin for dinner, with more truffles and wines. 

Dinner began with a glass of the 2019 Fakin Chamal, a sparkling wine made by the Charmat method and with an 11.5% ABV. It's a blend of 80% Malvazija Istarska and 20% Chardonnay, and that blend is how it got its name (CHArdonnay & MALvazija). The grapes were harvested 20 days early to maintain its acidity and lower ABV. It was dry and crisp, with nice flavors of apple and hints of brioche. Easy drinking, and said to pair well with oysters, seafood and pasta. This wine is sold in many Croatian restaurants. Marko noted that Riedel has a specific glass for Malvazija, but it's primarily intended for fresh Malvazija wines.  

With an appetizer of scrambled eggs and asparagus, the next wine was the 2019 Fakin Malvazija Istarska La Prima. With a 15% ABV, the Malvazija grapes for this wine were from the Komarso single vineyard, which was planted in 1954. The grapes spent 7 days with skin contact and then was aged for 12 months in acacia barrels. This orange/amber wine had an appealing aroma, and on the palate is was smooth and dry, with a complex and intriguing melange of notes of honey, dried fruits, intriguing spices, minerality and savory elements. Marko stated it was a "fatty wine" that paired well with bitter foods, which would explain its pairing with the asparagus. He also stated he preferred to use a big bowl Burgundian glass for this wine. Highly recommended.

We then moved onto the 2020 Fakin Teran, with a 13.5% ABV and which only 20% of the wine spent a little time in oak. An easy drinking wine, with rich black fruit flavors, spices notes, an elegant of earthiness, and soft, restrained tannins. It can be enjoyed on its own or paired with food, such as spicy manestra, our next course. A fine example of a "fresh" Teran.

Istrian Manestra is the most common dish in Marko's house, a soup (although thicker like a stew) with beans, corns, pork, and vegetables. It's usually served for lunch, a strong meal to fill them up after the work of the morning. This was a hearty and delicious soup, with pieces of crispy prosciutto. A true taste of Istria.

My entree was the Beefsteak with black truffles and mashed potatoes. The meat was tender, juicy and flavorful, enhanced by the alluring aromas of the black truffles. A decadent dish, sure to please any meat lover.

With the beef, we sipped the 2018 Fakin Teran Il Primo, with a 14.5% ABV, from grapes of the Flaminio single vineyard, which were planted in 1972, which spent 21 days with skin contact.. Only 3900 bottles were produced, and the wine spent two years in the barrel, 50% new oak. The wine had an intense fruity aroma, and on the palate it was dark and deep, intense and smooth, but well-balanced too. Ripe plum, black raspberry, deep spices, mineral notes, and a lengthy, satisfying finish. Again, Teran makes an impressive wine, and it's clear that Marko is quite skilled with this Istrian grape. Highly recommended.

Dessert was Home made Ravioli with black truffles, and filled with white chocolate. Another delicious and more unique dish, the truffles certainly elevated it. The chef at Konoba Fakin certainly deserves kudos for his menu. 

Marko Fakin has certainly earned his excellent reputation as a wine maker, and it's great that he is concentrating his efforts on indigenous grapes, Malvazija Istarska and Teran. His passion for Teran is more than evident, and he is leading the way to show the vast potential of Teran. All wine lovers should learn more about Teran, and sample it if possible. Marko is a leader in the new generation of Croatian wine makers, and it was a pleasure to spend time with him, talking and sampling his wines. If you are in Istria, you definitely should visit his winery and check out his Konoba in Motovun. 

Truffle Hunting In Istria

Italy is well known for truffles, both black and white, yet did you know that truffles are also found in Croatia? Although truffles are found in various regions of Croatia, they are most famous in Istria, especially near the village of Motovun. During our time in Istria, during our two-week journey to Croatia, we ate a number of dishes flavored with shaved truffles, and also engaged in a truffle hunting expedition. 

In short, truffles are an edible fungi that grow underground, and are commonly divided into black and white truffles, although the actual color of the flesh of the truffle can vary. They are usually found in valleys and wooded areas, especially near watercourses. For many centuries, pigs were trained to sniff out and locate truffles. However, pigs also loved to eat truffles, and it could be very difficult to stop them from eating a truffle that they located. Over time, truffle hunters started to use dogs instead of pigs to find truffles. You might not realize that truffles have very little taste, and it is their smell which is actually the alluring aspect. 

The Motovun Forest, once called St. Mark's Forest, is famous for its white truffles. Most of the truffles found in the Motovun region, are first sent to Livade, a village known as the "Center of the Truffle World." In the late 1920s. the Croatian Truffle Institute, an independent scientific and research institution, was established in Livade, with the objective of promoting, preserving and scientifically studying the Croatian truffle. During the 1930s, the first commercial companies dealing in truffles were founded in Livade. Livade has retained its importance to the truffle trade.

  

We went on a brief truffle hunting expedition with Nikola Tarandek (pictured above), who runs his own truffle hunting business. A former civil engineer, Nikola eventually decided to retire and become a truffle hunter. He was very personable, a fine guide for our truffle hunt.

On the day of the hunt, Nikola had three dogs, all mutts, named Nero, Zero and Micki. He trained them at home, and stated it is best to start when they are puppies, when truffle can be placed on the mother's nipples. Eventually, they will be tossed items with a truffle smell, and then those items will be buried, so the dog will learn how to dig for them. The training period can range from weeks to years. Even though female dogs learn faster, Nikola believes the male dogs are best in the end. 

Nikola currently owns seven dogs, and noted that the older dogs help to train the younger ones. It is important to maintain control of the dogs as they too will eat truffles, and Nikola wants whole truffles, and not truffles that have been bitten and broken apart. The larger truffles garner the best prices, so when part of a truffle is uncovered, he has to be very careful when removing it, as you never know its size until it has been completely dug up. White truffles garner a price about 10 times as much as a black truffle. 

Sometimes, one dog might pass by a hidden truffle but another dog will find it. Truffles also seem to be usually found where mushrooms are not found. If you want to engage in truffle hunting on public land, you need a license. Nikola also believes it's important to cover up a truffle hole, as one never knows if another truffle might spawn from that place. Nikola sells truffles all over the world, as well as working with an agency in Hong Kong, especially to bring Chinese tourists on truffle hunts in Istria. 

In addition, he regaled us with a story of Nero, who he entered into a truffle hunting competition where the dogs had to find the most truffles. Nero came in last, checking each of the thirty holes, but that's because he is an extremely careful dog. And that is much better than speed. 

During the course of our hunt, the dogs went off, exploring the woods, sniffing for truffles, digging in the dirt a few times. We followed their general path, hoping they might uncover a truffle. However, in the end, the dogs didn't locate any truffles, but it was a fun experience nonetheless. 

On some other truffle hunts, they pre-bury truffles so a successful hunt is guaranteed. Nikola once engaged in this practice, but decided against it after a time. He wants the hunt to be more real, more authentic, and I agree with his sentiment. His groups have found truffles in the past, but we just weren't lucky on our trek. I would recommend Nikola Tarandek if you'd like a truffle hunt while you are in the Motovun region. 

Motovun: A Fascinating Mountain Village in Istria

While driving through the region of Istria, on our two week tour of Croatia, we saw a picturesque fortified village atop a mountain, which ascends about 886 feet above sea level. This was the village of Motovun, with a population of only about 500 people, where we would stay for a couple nights. It was a fascinating village, and I highly recommended that anyone visiting Istria should stop here for a visit. 

The history of Motovun extends back to the ancient Celts and Illyrians, who both constructed fortresses at this location. Even its name is of Celtic origin, derived from the term "montona" which basically means "a town in the hills." The Romans also had a settlement here, and you can find a couple ancient Roman gravestones within Motovun. During the 10th and 11th centuries, Motovun belonged to the Bishop of Poreč. In 1278, the village and region were taken over by the Republic of Venice, which eventually built thick stone walls to fortify the village. Those walls remain, providing a more medieval ambiance to the village.  

As I've mentioned before, Istria was known by the Romans as "Terra Magica," the land of magic, and Motovun fits within those mystical legends. For one, it's claimed that Motovun sits at the intersection of three mystical ley lines, known in Istria as "dragon lines." These are allegedly straight lines of mystical energy that connect important landmarks. The intersection of these lines is said to be located underneath St. Stephen’s church tower, and they allegedly provide Motovun with much positive energy. These lines extend to other villages, including Grožnjan and Opatalj, as well as some nearby megalithic circles, stone circles, in places including Picuge and Modele. 

We stayed at the Baka Ljubica ("Grandma Ljubica"), which is connected to the Villa Borgo, located directly across the street (and pictured below). Baka Ljubica has six guest rooms, and it has a nice location, close to many of the attractions in Motovun. 

Villa Borgo has nine guest rooms, and it's also where we had breakfast while we stayed at Baka Ljubica.  Plus, there is a small patio, looking out over the Mirna River valley, where you can sit and relax, savoring the amazing view. 

Breakfast is freshly made each morning in their kitchen, and you can watch their cook preparing it. One morning, they made Fritule, basically Croatian fritters or doughnut holes, and they were delicious. A slightly crunchy exterior with a light, fluffier interior. And both mornings, I enjoyed Scrambled Eggs with Truffles. Motovun is in the center of the truffle region of Istria, so truffles are found throughout Motovun's shops and restaurants. 

As you can see, most of the narrow streets are made of cobblestones. The only vehicles permitted on the streets generally belong to residents. So, tourists need to park at the bottom of the village, and then walk into it. Motovun also is popular with cyclists, although you might not think cobblestones would be the best surface for riding a bicycle. 

To the left of this medieval archway is the Mirna River valley. Within the archway, which is located on one of the main streets, there are a number of intriguing carvings (shown below), and coats of arms, most from the 15th century. 

I passed through this archway a number of times as I explored Motovun. 

The Church of St Stephens, was built between 1580 and 1614, but obtained its current look around the end of the 18th century. It is said to be built on the location of at least a couple prior churches, and beneath the church is said to be the intersection of three dragon lines. 

The Bell Tower, which was constructed in the 13th century, is 27 meters tall and was built to be an observation tower, eventually becoming a bell tower. It is a very noticeable landmark, extending high into the air, and easily seen from outside the village.

If you walk around the outside of Motovun, you can see the tall, thick stone walls that protect the village. They were obviously well constructed as they have largely remained as is since around the 14th century.

A few more intriguing spots within Motovun. 

Mario Andretti, the famed race car driver, and his twin brother, Aldo, were born in Motovun on February 28, 1940. There's a plaque commemorating his birth home. I actually stumbled on this place while wandering around Motovun, although I had known Andretti was born in the village. 

Also while wandering, I found this little food stall, which made Fritule, Granita, Palačinke and Pommes Frite. I ordered some Truffle Honey Fritule, which cost about $7 US, and they were excellent, with a nice sweetness and the addition of an earthy taste from the truffle flavor. 

Motovun has numerous Truffle shops throughout the village, and above is just a few of them. You can purchase a wide variety of truffle-flavored items, as well as actual truffles. Some of these shops sell other Istrian specialties, such as Kobasice (sausages), Prsut (prosciutto), and wine. 

There were a couple art shops too. Tanjur sells WallWare, decorative plates made for hanging on your wall, and not for your table. They have a large selection of pictures, from sea life to birds, anatomy to butterflies. The two-plate Lobster initially caught my eye, and I found many cool plates within the store.  Art in Situ is a small art studio, operated by Kristina Micanovic & Igor Mudronja, which produces original artwork, t-shirts, bags and more. I was intrigued by their work, and even ended up buying one of their bags, with a fantasty sea-creature on it. 

A wine shop, which also sells truffles and grappa. 

The Aura Distillery, which produces Istrian brandy, rakija, has a location in Motovun. They also make an assortment of jams and chocolates. 

There are several restaurants in Motovun as well, including the Konoba Fakin, where we would dine, and I'll be writing about that experience in another article. In short though, it has a great view into the valley, and the food & wine were excellent.

Another legend of the Motovun area is that giants used to live in the region, and it is said that they built some of the villages, including Motovun, as well as the megalithic stone circles. As humans started moving into the area, the giants began to disappear, all except for one, Veli Jože. In 1908, author Vladimir Nazor wrote a famous tale of this friendly giant, and he has been commemorated in Motovun. A street is named after Veli Jože and there is also a mural in the village which depicts the giant. 

These are views from Motovun looking out into the Mirna River Valley, a region surrounded by vineyards, forests, and other small villages. During our time in Motovun, we would visit one of the wineries in the valley, as well as go on a truffle hunt in one of the forests. More about both of these in future articles.

A couple pictures from a sunset one day while in Motovun, as we sat outside enjoying dinner. 

There are a number of feral cats in Motovun, and you'll often find them near the restaurants, hoping to be fed, or waiting for food to drop to the ground. Above, one of the cats walks atop a wall, and the other side is a long drop to the ground. The cats are fairly friendly, especially if you feed them. I wonder how many truffles these cats eat. 

You do need to keep an eye out for the cats on the wall, which is also next to the outside tables, as they could easily grab food from your plate if you weren't watching them.

I loved my stay in Motovun, and it's certainly an excellent tourist destination. A great sense of history, delicious food and wine, incredible views, intriguing shops, and lots of truffles! If you visit Istria, Motovun should be on your list.