Monday, March 11, 2024

A Tavola: Bourbon & BBQ Dinner

A BBQ dinner at an Italian restaurant? At first, that might sound like a strange idea, however, when you give it more consideration, when you realize that a talented chef can be skilled in a variety of different cuisines, then the idea becomes intriguing. It becomes a fascinating insight into the culinary skills of a chef, and can end up as a fun and tasty dinner. 

Recently, at A Tavola in Winchester, Chef Joe Carli and Sous Chef David Paige executed an impressive and delicious five-course BBQ dinner, accompanied by whiskey and cocktail pairings. This dinner was first advertised in December 2023, and it sold out a short time later, even though the menu had not yet been listed. It's obvious that plenty of people had faith that this would be an excellent event, and were willing to try something different from the restaurant's usual Italian fare. 

Both Chef Joe Carli and Sous Chef David Paige have long had an interest in BBQ, and have even considered the idea of opening a BBQ restaurant one day. At a previous wine dinner, they had prepared a pulled pork dish for one of the courses, and it was compelling, so I had some prior evidence of their BBQ skills. 

The first course included Bacon-Wrapped Stuffed Jalapeños, with a biscuit & honey butter. With a crispy bacon coating, the jalapeños were stuffed with a seasoned mix of cream cheese and meat, and offered a slightly spicy bite as well. The biscuit was excellent, fluffy and moist, buttery and tasty, enhanced by the slightly sweet honey butter. A fine way to begin this BBQ dinner.

This course was accompanied by a small glass of Old Elk Straight Wheat Bourbon. Philip Mancini, of MS Walker, presented all of the whiskies during the dinner. This bourbon, made in Colorado, has a mashbill of 51% corn, 45% wheat and 4% malted barley. It had a soft taste, with a light heat, and notes of caramel, vanilla, salted nuts, and a mild grassiness. 

The next course included Burnt Ends, an agave mustard sauce and Calabrian collard greens. The burnt ends were scrumptious, with a fine crunchy char, silky fat, and lots of juicy, tender meat. They were enhanced by the mild mustard sauce, although they were also quite enjoyable without any sauce. The collard greens were slightly spicy with the addition of the Calabrian chilis. 
 
With this dish, we had a Golden Derby cocktail, made with Mellow Corn, Canton Ginger & Grapefruit. Mellow Corn is not technically a bourbon, but is a Bottled in Bond Kentucky Straight Corn Whiskey. The Mellow Corn has a mashbill that is at least 81% corn and is aged for at least four years in used bourbon barrels. The cocktail is generally made with 1 1/2 ounces of Mellow Corn, 1 1/2 ounces of Domaine de Canton Ginger Liqueur, and 2 ounces of grapefruit juice. A smooth and nicely balanced cocktail with bright flavors of ginger and grapefruit, enhanced with some sweetness and vanilla of the whiskey. 

The third course consisted of two Pulled Pork Sliders, with a Carolina style bbq sauce, on potato rolls. The tender and flavorful pulled pork was covered in a delicious and tangy vinegar-based sauce. Such an excellent sandwich, and the type of sandwich I'd love to enjoy on a regular basis. 

This dish was paired with the Elijah Craig, 12 Year Old Small Batch Bourbon, and it was my favorite pairing of the night. The Elijah Craig was complex and intriguing, with notes of vanilla, caramel, smoke, and citrus. Its sweet notes were an excellent balance to the vinegar tang of the pulled pork. 


The final savory course were Smoked Grass Fed Beef Ribs with jalapeño & cheddar cornbread. These were huge ribs, tender, juicy and meaty, with a crunchy bark. They were topped by a compelling BBQ sauce, which was sweet and tangy, enhancing the savory and slightly smoky beef. The carnivore in me was immensely pleased. The cornbread was very good too, with a spicy kick from the jalapeños.  

This dish was paired with a glass of Four Roses Single Barrel Bourbon, from one of my favorite bourbon producers. This was a complex and interesting bourbon, with fruity notes, caramel, baking spices, and mild floral notes. Smooth, with a lengthy finish. Another excellent pairing. 

The BBQ on the beef ribs was a recipe created by Sous Chef David Paige, pictured above in the Charizard hat (a Pokémon dragon). The recipe is about seven-years old, and David has been tweaking it over the years, making it better and better. 

Bottles of his BBQ sauce were also available for sale at the end of the dinner, and I was sure to buy one. 

Finally, dessert was an Apple Crisp with a caramel whipped bourbon cream. That cream was excellent, and went well with the crisp apple slices and crunchy coating.

The final pairing was the Drink Your Dessert cocktail, made with Nooku bourbon cream, Tito's, and coffee. The Nooku is made with two-year old Old Elk Bourbon and fresh dairy cream. I tasted some of the Nooku on its own, and it was creamy and tasty, with a nice richness and a pleasant bourbon flavor. A great choice for cocktails, and a nice match for coffee. 

Chef Joe Carli and Sous Chef David Paige know how to create impressive BBQ, and they will likely hold additional BBQ dinners in the future. This was a nice change from their usual Italian cuisine, as well as an insight into their overall culinary skills. This is also another reason why A Tavola is one of my Top Three Favorite Restaurants

Now, I look forward this Wednesday to another Wine Dinner event at A Tavola. 

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