Rant: How To Boost The Popularity of Sake

How do we make Sake, that wondrous Japanese alcoholic beverage fermented from rice, more popular in the U.S.? It remains a niche beverage that hasn't yet made a major breakthrough with American consumers. We may now consume more Sake than ever in our history, but it's still such a tiny amount when compared to beer, wine and whiskey. How do we make Sake more mainstream?

I've been deeply involved in research on the presence and perception of Sake in the U.S. since the 1800s. As I perused through various newspaper archives, visiting hundreds and hundreds of articles, I started thinking about this issue once again. One statistic that stuck out to me was that for many years, approximately 80% of Sake was consumed in the U.S. at Japanese restaurants. I suspect that figure hasn't changed too much in the present day. 

There are plenty of valuable suggestions on how Sake can be made popular, from increased education to making Sake labels more approachable, however most of those will only make incremental progress to the objective of mainstreaming Sake. Slow but steady progress. Is there any suggestion which might have a greater and quicker impact? 

I believe the greatest impact, the best way to make Sake more mainstream, is by getting more non-Asian restaurants to place Sake on their menus. Currently, Sake is mostly found at Asian restaurants, so the average consumer equates it only with Asian cuisine, from sushi to katsu. That misconception prevents Sake from becoming more mainstream, relegating it only to a certain type of cuisine, ensuring it remains more of a niche beverage. 

We need non-Asian restaurants to have the courage to place Sake on their drink menus, to show consumers that Sake pairs well with a diverse selection of cuisines and foods. I want to see Sake served with burgers and pizza. I want to see a sommelier at an Italian bistro recommending Sake with a pasta dish. I want to see seafood restaurants recommending Sake with oysters, fried clams or a lobster roll.  

Sake can and should be paired with appetizers, entrees and dessert. It works well with a myriad of cuisines from Italian to French, Mexican to Spanish. It's an excellent accompaniment to a diverse selection of foods, from burgers to pizza, seafood to poultry, mushrooms to cheese. Its versatility is without question yet few restaurants, except for Asian spots, take advantage. In some cases, it's even a better food pairing than wine.

I've previously written about how well Sake pairs with food, in articles such as The Science Of Sake & Food Pairings, Pairing Cheese & Sake, Slurping Oysters & Sipping Sake, Sake, Seafood & Lobster, and Sake For Thanksgiving. I've presided at Sake dinners at local restaurants, pairing it with Italian and French cuisine.

Unfortunately last year, the Tasting Counter, in Somerville, closed and it was the only non-Asian restaurant in the Boston area to offer a significant Sake program. With their multi-course dinners, you once could have opted for the Sake pairing, and receive ten different Sakes with their fantastic and creative cuisine. They did a great job in showcasing the versatility and potential of Sake with all types of dishes. Why can't other local restaurants follow their example and institute their own Sake programs?

We need Sake to be seen as a commonplace choice wherever you dine. As long as Sake is seen as only an accompaniment for Asian cuisine, then it will never become mainstream, remaining forever a niche beverage.

These changes will involve some work for restaurants. It will require more education about Sake on the behalf of restaurants and sommeliers, who should be excited to learn about this compelling beverage. They need to learn how Sake will pair well with their cuisine. They need to learn how to persuade diners to take a chance on a Sake pairings. None of this is difficult, and mainly involves an investment of time and a willingness to experiment

Those pioneering restaurants willing to take a chance on Sake would be in a unique position, with a new selling point for consumers, standing out from other restaurants. They could lead a path to a future where Sake becomes more popular and mainstream. So what are you waiting for?

Kanpai!