Origins of Anadama Bread, a New England Classic

Are you a fan of Anadama bread?

Anadama bread (also known as amadama, amidama, ammy dammy, annadama, and yami-dami) is a New England specialty, a loaf bread primarily made with cornmeal, molasses and white flour, although it sometimes is also made with rye flour. With a darker color, it commonly has a nutty, sweet taste and a soft texture. It's not as commonly available nowadays as it once was, but you can still find it at some local bakeries, or you can make it yourself at home.

Its origins are murky, with several different stories about its creation, which generally lack any supporting evidence. For example, some sources claim the bread originated with the Native Americans, and their recipe was eventually adopted by the Puritans. Others claim the bread was created in the late 19th century, maybe in Gloucester or Rockport. There's also a fanciful tale of how the bread acquired its name, involving a lazy wife and her husband who ends up baking the bread. 

I'll provide some documentary evidence to try to better understand the true origins of Anadama bread, including what may be the oldest documented reference to the bread, which isn't included in any of the other articles about its origins which I have seen.  

Some sources claim that the earliest printed reference to Anadama bread (in any of its spellings) was in 1915, in a book, Dialect Notes. However, other sources indicate an earlier reference, a cookbook known as Reliable Receipts For the House Wife. The first edition of this book is from 1888, but that edition doesn't appear readily available, so it's difficult to know for a surety that it actually included a recipe for Anadama. And I have yet to seen any evidence to prove the 1888 edition included that recipe. However, we can be sure that the 3rd edition, published in 1900, does have such a recipe. 

Anadama bread is sometimes thought to have been inspired by brown bread. One type of Colonial brown bread was called "Rye-n'-injun," as it was made with a mixture of rye and corn meal (Indian meal), and sometimes sweetened with molasses. However, the bread was commonly steamed, as many lacked ovens to bake their bread. Later recipes for Anadama bread sometimes used a combination of rye, corn meal, and molasses, while other recipes omitted the rye or even the corn meal. 

My own research found an even older reference to those commonly put forth for Anadama, to one of its alternative spellings, "Amidama" bread. The Resident and Business Directory of Rockport, Mass. (1888-1889), provided a brief advertisement for the King Street Bakery, located at 12 King Street. The ad stated they were “Bakers of Soft Bread, Cake, Pastry and the Celebrated ‘Amidama’ Bread.” This indicates that Amidama bread was already well known at that point. It's interesting that this ad did not specifically indicate whether the bakery invented this type of bread or not. We also don't know how long this bakery has been making Amidama bread, and it's difficult to find any older Rockport directories online. 

More information about this bakery was provided in Bakers and Baking in Massachusetts (1909) by Arthur W. Brayley, noted that Eben Knowlton established a bakery in Rockport in 1848, although the name of the bakery wasn't provided. So, it's unsure whether Eben started King Street Bakery in 1848 or not. One of his sons, Benjamin H. Knowlton, was born on December 6, 1863, and eventually worked at his father's bakery. When Eben died in 1903, Benjamin became the owner, and it was said that his specialty was Amadama Bread (the first use of this other name for this bread). Unfortunately, Benjamin passed away in 1912. It's possible that Eben was the inventor of Amidama bread.  

Let's return to the Reliable Receipts For the House Wife (3rd edition, 1900), which was contributed by the Ladies of the First Baptist Church, Gloucester, MA. This edition is the only one available online, so we can't say for a surety that earlier editions included the recipe. Above is a picture of their recipe for Amidama bread, aka Johnston’s Brick Loaf, in the 3rd edition. It's possible that Amidama might be the first name for this type of bread, preceding its later name as Anadama bread. 

Some sources theorize, based on this reference, that Anadama bread originated at Johnston's bakery in Gloucester during the 1880s. However, when I checked the Resident and Business Directories of Gloucester during the 1880s, I didn't find any reference to Amidama bread or a bakery owned by a Johnston. It seems doubtful that a Johnston bakery existed in Gloucester during the 1880s.  

An intriguing article appeared in the Buffalo Evening News (NY), November 6, 1906, which referenced a prior article in the Boston Transcript. It included a couple new names for Anadama bread: the "epidemic bread" and "ammy dammy bread." The article was titled, Epidemic Bread, and it stated, “Some sixty years ago, says the Boston Transcript, the bread mentioned was by a skilled baker at Gloucester. This is the traditional receipt (sic), then a secret. I have good reason to believe it accurate. One cup rye meal, one-half cup molasses, one-half cup yeast, one pint lukewarm water, salt. Thicken with white flour is stiff as can be stirred with a spoon. The bread became famous. Summer boarders, mostly from Boston in those days, were known to plan its after use at the home table. From its great popularity it was humorously called ‘the epidemic bread.’ A little miss, unskilled in words, sent to the bakershop for a loaf, said, ‘Mother wants some of that ammy dammy bread.’ And it was known by this name ever after.” 

This article would seem to indicate Anadama bread originated in the late 1840s in Gloucester. However, there is a significant problem with the recipe that was provided in this article as it omitted corn meal, aka Indian meal, an essential ingredient for Anadama bread. The article also appeared to include the first written references to "epidemic bread" and "ammy dammy bread." If the bread had been previously so popular, you would have expected at least the term epidemic bread to have been printed earlier. 

The Dialect Notes, Volume IV, Part III (1915) included a section on “Colonial Cookery Terms,” which were "taken from old recipes preserved in the family of Miss Rogers or collected by her for use in the Chimney Corner Inn, the home of Deacon John Cooper, built in Cambridge in 1657, and now in possession of the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities.” One of the terms was “Ammy Dammy bread. A kind of loaf bread. Recipe from Old Salem Tavern.” This would seem to indicate that the origins of Anadama bread reached back to Colonial times. 

The cookbook, More Recipes For Fifty (1918) by Frances Lowe Smith, provided the recipe for "Yami-Dami Bread." This is another term for Anadama bread, and the first written reference for it. 

During the 1920s, a number of newspapers discussed the possible origins for Anadama bread, offering at least three different versions. It seems no one could agree on its true origins. 

The Bridgeport Times (CT), January 4, 1922, noted, “Amadama bread was first originated in Gloucester, Mass. by a Mrs. John S. Johnston who had a ‘bakehouse’ there in our forefathers’ time." She later gave the recipe to the Ladies of the First Baptist Church who published it in their ‘Reliable Cook Book.’ The article also stated that it was almost impossible to explain origin of name Amadama. 

The article continued, “... when Mrs. Johnston first introduced the bread housewives clamored for it and it became most popular. For this reason Mrs. Johnston called it ‘Epidemic Bread,’ which name was mispronounced by an ignorant maid in one customer’s home, who called it ‘amadama.” This later point seems to run contrary to the recipe provided in the Reliable Cook Book, where it was referred to as Johnston’s Brick Loaf (or Amidama Bread). 

Two years later, The Country Gentleman: For the American Farmer and His Family (May 3, 1924), discussed "Ammy-dammy Bread." The article stated, “In the days when the stagecoach was the only means of transportation between the towns, there was a tavern on the road from Salem to Boston that made and sold a certain kind of bread. It became so popular that one traveller told another and people even sent from the city for a loaf of what they called from its (word unknown) ‘Epidemic Bread.’ One day a little girl being sent for some, and finding the name too difficult to master, asked for a loaf of ‘ammy-dammy bread,’ by which it was known ever after.” The above recipe was also provided, allegedly, “the way the originator made it.”

This origin tale seems to reflect what was previously provided in the Dialect Notes, Volume IV, Part III (1915), especially the mention of the Old Salem Tavern. It also reflected some of what was provided in the Buffalo Evening News (NY), November 6, 1906, especially concerning epidemic bread and ammy-dammy bread. The recipe is also the same as provided in the Buffalo Evening News, which omitted corn meal, considered an essential ingredient in Anadama bread.

Five years later, the Morning Union (MA), November 22, 1929, published an article on Thanksgiving Cookery. It was noted that many of the recipes were acquired from the Native Americans, including “ammy-dammy bread” It continued, “Then there was ammy-dammy bread, the basis of which was yellow cornmeal. The following recipe is taken out of an old kitchen scrapbook, one that has been well thumbed by many generations of cooks. One half cup of yellow cornmeal; one half cup of molasses; one tablespoon of lard: one teaspoon of salt, and two cups of boiling water. After the mixture has become lukewarm add one yeast cake dissolved in a half cup of water. Now mix in sufficient bread flour—in Colonial days this flour was the home-milled product—to make a stiff dough. Let it rise overnight. In the morning stir down and divided into four baking pans. Again it should be allowed to rise, and then into the oven for 45 minutes baking.

This supports the prior claim that Anadama bread reaches back to Colonial times, and originated with the Native Americans. This article would be reprinted over the next several years in other newspapers in New England.

During the later 1930s, another origin tale arose, one which has become very prominent, although often slightly revised, in the legends of the origins of Anadama bread, probably because the story seems more interesting. The Centre Daily Times (PA), July 8, 1937, claimed the recipe for Anadama bread was over 200 years old, having originated with the Puritans. It was alleged that a man had a lazy wife, named Anna, who predominantly fed him plates of mush. One day, tired with all of that simple mush, the man decided to mix the mush with other ingredients, baking it into a loaf. He allegedly commented that he had to cook “because my Anna, dam ‘er, won’t.” Thus, his load eventually became known as "Annadammer" and then later it was shortened to "Anadama."

Later articles would repeat a similar tale of a man and his lazy wife, Anna, although the time period would be later, the man might be a fisherman, and the location would be Gloucester or Rockport. It's a fanciful tale, which likely has no reflection of reality, but people like a good story, even if it isn't true. 

The New England Yankee Cook Book: An Anthology of Incomparable Recipes from the Six New England States (1939) by Imogene B. Wolcott,  repeated the tale that a man, who was a fisherman, had a lazy wife, had to do his own cooking, and named one of his creation after his wife, “Anna, damn her.” It was also noted that "This is an old Concord, Mass., recipe." A recipe (pictured above) was included, although its source was a woman from Manchester, New Hampshire. 

The Bangor Daily Commercial (ME), October 16, 1940, had previously attributed the creation of Anadama bread to Concord, Massachusetts, likely basing it on information from the New England Yankee Cook Book. However, some readers claimed the newspaper was wrong, and that the bread was actually created in Rockport. A reader stated, “... the recipe was original with a Mrs. Knowlton of Rockport, Mass., and was kept a family secret for several years. I bought it frequently fifty years ago from their bakery." This connects to the prior reference of King Street Bakery, in Rockport, owned by Eben and Benjamin Knowlton, although that reference didn't mention a Mrs. Knowlton.  

The article also provided a recipe for “Annadama Bread," which is pictured above.

The Rutland Daily Herald (VT), August 10, 1948, published another version of the origins of Annadama bread. It claimed that a Cape Ann fisherman had a lazy wife who often didn't prepare anything for dinner. One day, the man tried to create something from mush and molasses, creating a tasty bread. He continued to make this bread, sometimes giving it to his neighbors. A neighbor asked him the name of the bread and the man decided to name it after his wife, "Anna, damn her." 

The Freeport Facts (ME), June 2, 1953, published a recipe for Ammydammy bread, and it stated the real name was Anadama Bread. It was also claimed that this bread  “... was first turned out by the Blacksmith Shop Pastries in Rockport, Mass.” This is the first mention of this bakery being involved in the story of Anadama bread. However, the evidence shows Anadama bread couldn't have originated at the Blacksmith Shop, which didn't exist until the 1940s.

In the 1940s, William and Melissa Smith owned a restaurant in Rockport called The Blacksmith Shop. At some point, they opened a small bakery to supply their restaurant with bread, including (and maybe solely) Anadama bread. In 1954, they formed Anadama Bread, Inc., and established a new, larger bakery in 1956. In 1964, they also formed a subsidiary, Anadama Mixes, Inc. The Smiths would apply for a trademark for "Anadama", claiming that the first use of the term was in 1850, and that the first commercial use was on July 1, 1876, although no specifics were provided. However, both corporations were involuntary dissolved in October 1983.

The origins of Anadama bread remain murky, but some clarity has arisen, especially pushing the date of the oldest known printed reference. From an advertisement in a Rockport directory of 1888-1889, the King Street Bakery, owned by Eben Knowlton, was noted as producing Amidama bread. Eben had been a baker since 1848, and is a potential candidate for being the inventor of Anadama bread. More research into the King Street bakery and Eben Knowlton could uncover older references to Amidama bread. 

What is your favorite bakery to get Anadama Bread?

2024 Tetramythos Agrippiotis Orange Nature: A Unique Greek Treasure

On my anniversary, I celebrated at Krasi, a Greek restaurant on Gloucester Street in Boston. It's one of my Top Four Favorite restaurants, and is always consistently excellent. Once again, I thoroughly enjoyed dinner, from Htipiti (spicy whipped feta, roasted red chili peppers, rigani potato chips) to Xtapodomakaronada, Kotoleta Lemonati (fried chicken cutlet, warm Cypriot potato salad, lemon caper butter sauce) to Portokalopita (orange phyllo cake, syrup, manouri ice cream), and more. 

Krasi has an incredible and diverse Greek wine list, with so many delicious choices. I've long been a fan of Greek wines, and you won't find a better Greek wine list anywhere else than at Krasi. With some suggestions from their Wine Director, Jeremiah Cates, I opted for a bottle of the unique 2024 Tetramythos Agrippiotis Orange Nature ($85).

The Tetramythos Winery was established in 1999 by two brothers, Aristos and Stathis Spanos, who had been involved in viticulture and wine production throughout their lives. Working with Panagiotis Papagiannopoulos, an oenologist, they began producing their first wines. In 2001, they began planting organic vineyards, and in 2004, they completed the construction of a new winery. The winery is located in Achaea, in western Greece. They grow a variety of native and international grapes, including Agiorgitiko, Black Kalavritino, Malagouzia, Mavrodaphne, Roditis, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, and more. 

The 2024 Tetramythos Agrippiotis Orange Nature, which is certified organic and has a 11.5% ABV, is made from a rare Greek white grape, Agrippiotis (also known as Curisti). It grows in the Peloponnese peninsula and the Ionian Islands, and is known for its high acidity, low yields, and the ability to grow well even in challenging environments. Very few producers seem to be using this grape, and Tetramythos seems to best known for doing so. Papagiannopoulos was responsible for planting a small vineyard of Agrippiotis at Tetramythos, and eventually creating this orange wine.  

The origin of the grape's name is elusive, although there are a few theories. One is that the grape is named after the famed Roman general Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa. The name "Agrippa" may mean mean "wild horse" or "born feet first." Another theory is that it's named after Caligula's sister, Agrippina the Younger, who was also the mother of Emperor Nero. There's also a theory that the grape derived its name from the Apidia tree, a name from Greek folklore that referred to a wild pear tree.

This wine underwent skin contact maceration for about 20 days, and was fermented with indigenous yeasts. It was bottled unfiltered, unfined and with the addition of minimal sulfites before bottling. The wine has a fine golden hue, slightly cloudy, with an alluring and complex nose of citrus, dried fruit, and floral elements. The promise of the nose is fully realized on the palate, which is elegant and complex, with bright acidity and an intriguing taste. The fascinating and complex flavors include citrus, dried fruits, baked apple, subtle herbal notes, and a touch of salted nuts. Each sip brought something new and exciting to my mouth. It's a well balanced wine, with mild tannins, and a lengthy, satisfying finish. An excellent food wine. It's a compelling wine that mere words cannot adequately describe, and which must be experienced to fully understand its beauty and wonders. Highly recommended!

Drink more Greek wines!

Non-Rant: Embracing Food/Drink Friends

"There is nothing on this earth more to be prized than true friendship."
--Thomas Aquinas 

After the Thanksgiving holiday, having enjoyed two delicious dinners and still in an excellent mood, then I don't think today is appropriate for a Rant. So, instead, I'm posting a Non-Rant, highlighting something which makes everyone happy, and something which I probably don't devote enough attention on my blog. 

Let's talk about friendship.

“Of all possessions, a friend is the most precious.”
--Herodotus

It's a given that the circumstances surrounding us when we eat and drink will affect, positively or negatively, our perception of that food and drink. If you're vacationing in Europe, drinking local wine at a picturesque cafe, you'll probably think the wine is stunning, partially a reaction to your amazing surroundings. If you had that same wine at a dirty, noisy and crowded little restaurant, you might not enjoy it as much. The same applies to food as well, as dishes you enjoy at an exotic vacation destination may taste better than if you had that same dish at a local spot. 

Besides your surroundings, the people with you at the time will also play a significant role in your enjoyment. When you are dining with the people you most love, such as close friends, you're more likely to have a better overall experience. Your food and drink often tastes better because of those friends. 

“The greatest sweetener of human life is friendship.”
--Joseph Addison

As I have repeatedly said before, good food and drink is even better when shared. My best dining and drinking experiences have always been with good friends and/or family. I sincerely hope that you have at least one good friend who enhances your own dining and drinking experiences. I suspect many people who shared Thanksgiving with good friends enjoyed their food and drink even more. Maybe you should even thank those friends for enriching your life. I also hope that you do the same for your own friends, making their own food and drink taste better. Appreciate the friends in your lives and make your life even better. Without friends, your life is empty and shallow.

In addition, with inspiration and thanks to Gary Goldblatt, food-lover and friend, I want to note that being a good food/drink friend can also entail sharing your knowledge and experience with your friends. For example, you can introduce your friends to different cuisines or different wines. And hopefully they will reciprocate, introducing you to new food and drink experiences as well. And be willing to share your knowledge of food and drink with interested strangers as well, as they might then become friends.   

Cherish your food and drink friends, and try to be a better one yourself.

"Friendship improves happiness and abates misery, by the doubling of our joy and the dividing of our grief."
--Marcus Tullius Cicero

Giving Thanks on Thanksgiving

Today, all across America, many of us will celebrate Thanksgiving. This year is an excellent time to remember the deeper meaning of the day. Beyond the turkey and pecan pie, the stuffing and cranberry sauce, the doughnuts and mashed potatoes, Thanksgiving is a day for reflection upon our lives, to ponder and be thankful for all of the positive things in our lives. 

We need to appreciate the goodness in our lives, to be happy with everything we have (and I don't mean in a material sense). No matter what troubles or adversities we might face in our lives, I am absolutely sure there is also much to bring us joy.

That is especially true during these troubling times. We need to embrace the positivity that we do possess, rather than wallow in despair. We must see hope in the future, and we must cherish the good in our lives. Our focus today, and actually how it should be every day, should be on the positive aspects of our lives. 

Savoring the positive in our lives can brighten the darker parts of our lives, and place everything in perspective. Complaining and criticizing often accomplishes little and instead we should concentrate on solutions. We can make our lives better if we truly desire to do so. It may take time and effort, but we can accomplish much with a positive mindset.

I am thankful for many other things in my life, including family, friends, health, and much more. I am thankful for all my blog readers. It would take too long to list every single thing I am thankful for here, but I will take the time to reflect upon all of them today. I will try not to dwell on the negative elements in my life. It will hopefully be a day of appreciation and reflection, of hope and a brighter future.

I fervently hope that everyone else can embrace the positive, rather than dwelling on the negative. Share your positive feelings with your family and friends. Tell them that you love them, thank them for being in your life. You might not be able to see them in person this year, but see them on the computer, or talk to them on the phone. You'll never regret sharing your feelings with your loved ones.

I'm going to enjoy a couple days of delicious drinking and eating with family. I'll open a couple of special wines, enjoy some amazing food, and savor the day. And I'll spend time remembering everything I should be thankful for in my life. I hope my readers do the same.

Wednesday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a special Wednesday edition (due to the holiday tomorrow) of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) For the Christmas holidays:

Situated on the rooftop of The Newbury Boston, Contessa Boston, overlooks the city skyline and brings the flavors of Northern Italy to Boston. On Christmas Day, guests can enjoy family-style dining ($195 per person). To start, the antipasti for the table includes Burrata with Caviar; Carciofi, featuring shaved artichokes, crushed almonds, Parmigiano, and lemon; or the Chianina Beef Carpaccio. For the primi course, guests may choose either Spicy Lobster Rigatoni or Fettuccine Bolognese. The secondi course features either a choice of Prime Rib or Grilled Mediterranean Branzino. To end on a sweet note, enjoy either Nutella Fudge Cake or Panettone. Reservations are available from 12pm-8pm on Christmas Day, so please call (617) 741-3404. 

Matria Boston, the Northern Italian–inspired steakhouse at InterContinental Boston, is celebrating Christmas Eve and Christmas Day with a dedicated holiday menu. In addition to Matria’s full menu, guests can enjoy a selection of Christmas specials, including the Seafood Tower ($120), featuring 18 oysters, 10 jumbo shrimp, and a whole lobster (1.5 lbs.); Cinnamon Clove Rubbed Lamb Rack ($62), with smoked chestnut purée, brown butter, roasted heirloom carrots, and ginger–kumquat marmalade; Seared Venison Tenderloin ($58), with herb-roasted root vegetables, black truffle gratin potatoes, and fig–pear–pomegranate compote; and Lobster and Truffle Gnocchi ($42), featuring homemade gnocchi with fontina cheese, Parmesan, black pepper, and toasted hazelnuts. Reservations are available on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day from 4:30pm-10pm, so please call (617) 217-5151. 

2) For New Year's Eve: 

Situated on the rooftop of The Newbury Boston, Contessa Boston, overlooks the city skyline and brings the flavors of Northern Italy to Boston. On New Year's Eve, guests can enjoy a family-style dining experience ($295 per person). To start, the antipasti for the table includes Burrata & Caviar Bruschetta, Black Truffle Carpaccio, Asparagus & Avocado Salad, or Squash Blossoms. For the primi course, guests may choose either Spicy Lobster Rigatoni or Truffle Ricotta Gnudi. The secondi course features Jumbo Prawns, Dover Sole Piccata, Wagyu Ribeye, or Veal Milanese. To end on a sweet note, guests can enjoy either Mocha Tiramisu or Lemon Chiffon Cake. Reservations are available from 5pm-10:30pm on New Year's Eve., so please call (617) 741-3404. 

Matria Boston, the Northern Italian–inspired steakhouse at InterContinental Boston, is celebrating New Year’s Eve with a dedicated holiday-themed menu. In addition to Matria’s full menu, guests can enjoy the following New Year’s Eve specials: the Seafood Tower ($120), featuring 18 oysters, 10 jumbo shrimp, and a whole lobster (1.5 lbs.); Truffle Chestnut Porcini Bisque ($17), made with parmesan tegula; Cinnamon Clove Rubbed Lamb Rack ($62), served with smoked chestnut purée, brown butter, roasted heirloom carrots, and ginger-kumquat marmalade; and Roasted Truffle Lobster ($59): a whole Maine lobster with Parmigiano, lump crab, white wine tarragon, and shaved truffles. To end the evening on a sweet note, guests can indulge in the Golden White Mountain Chestnut dessert ($15), featuring chestnut confit, hazelnut praline, and Manjari dark chocolate mousse. Reservations for New Year’s Eve are available from 4:30pm-10pm, so please call (617) 217-5151. 

Akashi-Tai Daiginjo Genshu Sake: Only Available at Karma in Winchester

There's a delicious, new Sake in Massachusetts but it's only available at Karma Asian Fusion Cuisine, in Winchester. It's a "Karma Private Label Sake," a Daiginjo Genshu from the Akashi Sake Brewery. It took over a year of development to make this project come to fruition. I recently enjoyed lunch at Karma, and made sure to try some of the exclusive Sake. They have a display of the Sake bottle on their bar (pictured above), and I especially love the Patriot's glasses on either side of the Sake. And the Sake was absolutely delicious! Even my dining companion, who generally dislikes Sake, enjoyed the taste. 

The Akashi Sake Brewery, a family business, was founded in 1856 and is located in the port city of Akashi in the Hyogo Prefecture. This Prefecture is a well-known Sake region, the birthplace of the famed Yamadanishiki rice, considered the "King" of Sake rice. Some of the most famous Sake regions are also located in Hyogo. Their current Toji, master Sake brewer, is Kimio Yonezawa, and their website states, "An innovator at heart, Kimio Yonezawa follows the way of “kakushin” (meaning radical innovation in Japanese), yet does so with absolute respect for the ingredients of the region, only ever making sake in small batches."

Kimio Yonezawa also states, “my goal is to create a sake with real personality.” He continues, “A luxurious, bodied, generous sake, with a lot of depth and great aromatic intensity, which makes you want to savour the tasting. I also wanted a sake that reveals its origins and the calming influences of the sea. I have spent much of my life searching for that magic moment, when the flavour of sake pairs with that of the food, creating a perfect balance.” Finally, he has also said, "To produce sake with character, you need three ingredients: the best local rice from the Hyogo prefecture, an artisanal method and a lot of passion."

A symbol of the brewery is the Tai, which means "sea bream" in Japanese. In the U.S., sea bream is sometimes called "red snapper," though that's incorrect as red snapper is actually a different fish. Sea bream are common in the waters of the coast of Akashi, and they use it as a lucky symbol as their "brewery has survived against the fierce currents of time and change since 1856." An image of the sea bream is depicted on the front label of their Sake bottles.    

The Akashi-Tai Daiginjo Genshu is an iconic Sake, but it hasn't been available for retail in the U.S. since 2019. So, now it's available in the U.S., but only at Karma, available by the glass for $17, or in a 300ml bottle for $55. It's a Honjozo Sake, meaning it's brewed from only 5 ingredients: rice, water, yeast, koji-kin mold, and brewer's alcohol. The brewer's alcohol is used to bring out certain flavors and aromas, and does not make the Sake more alcoholic. It's also made from Yamadanishiki rice, the King of Sake Rice, which has been milled down to only 38%. This Sake is a Daiginjo, the highest quality grade, which requires the rice to be polished down to at least 50%, so this Sake has been polished even more. It's also a Genshu, meaning it hasn't been diluted down by water, but has a 17% ABV, which is actually lower than many other Genshu, which can be around 20% ABV. 

I found this Sake to have an appealing fruity aroma (especially stone fruit), with a touch of floral notes. On the palate, it was absolutely delicious, complex and fruity, with subtle hints of floral elements. It was dry, with a medium-body, and a lengthy finish. It has a taste profile which should appeal to many people, even those new to Sake, or even those who claim they dislike Sake. This Sake could easily be enjoyed on its own, sipping with good friends, but it also would pair well with a variety of foods. It worked very well with the Sushi I had for lunch, but also went well with Crispy Chicken & Shrimp Wontons. The brewery also recommends that it pairs well with "Lamb or duck with a rich sauce, Oysters and other seafood, Marinated salmon and all types of sushi and sashimi." 

I recommend you dine at Karma in Winchester and order some of the Akashi-Tai Daiginjo Genshu Sake. Their Lunch Specials are an excellent and tasty deal, and the Sake would well complement the dishes.

Rant: Boring Customers Lead To Boring Restaurants

Last week, the Michelin Guide announced their results for the Boston+ area, the first year they have done so. Obviously, the list came with controversy, and plenty of people, including myself, felt they omitted some top-notch restaurants. 311 Omakase received the only Michelin Star, while six restaurants received Bib Gourmand designations, which emphasizes high quality food at a reasonable price. It's interesting that four of those six restaurants serve Asian cuisine while the other two serve Italian. Nineteen other restaurants were listed as Michelin Recommendations. 

Rather than address those restaurants which I believe should have received Michelin recognition, or deserved a Star rather than a mere Recommendation, I want to address another issue which has been raised during discussions about the Michelin Guide in Boston. 

Boring Restaurants!   

Some claim that Boston has too many boring restaurants, that innovation doesn't receive sufficient attention. Is that true? And if it's true, what is the reason for those boring restaurants? And if so, how can we change that situation?

First, we can all agree that operating a restaurant is a significant challenge, especially in these economic times, when finding good help is difficulty, the prices of food ingredients are high, rents are out of control, and liquor license prices can also be very high. Most restaurants operate on slim margins, especially the small, independent spots. So, it can be difficult to run a creative and innovative restaurant if you can't attract sufficient customers.  

And creativity and innovation is often resisted by boring customers. Too many people eat only a limited variety of meat and seafoods. Too many people are unwilling to try different cuisines, or different dishes, that are outside their normal intake or comfort level. For example, there are people who refuse to dine at an Italian restaurant unless it has chicken parmigiana on the menu. I've seen Italian restaurants cave into these customers, adding the dish to their menu, so they won't lose the business.   

A hundred years ago or so, Americans were more adventurous with their palates but that has been changing over time. We need to return to that prior time, to be more adventurous in our palates, being open to experience new foods. If we do, then maybe more creative restaurants can flourish rather than struggle.   

Consider that Americans primarily eat three animals: cows, pigs, and chickens. Approximately 10 billion animals are slaughtered in the U.S. annually, and almost 9 billion of them are chickens. Most Americans restrict their consumption to such a limited choice. Instead of chicken, why not expand your palate to include duck, quail, goose, squab, pheasant, and guinea hens? As for other meats, go beyond beef and pork, and try animals such as bison, elk, venison, rabbit, wild boar, lamb, goat, or go even more exotic with items like kangaroo, snake, yak, llama, and more. Did you know that the USDA has stated that Rabbit is the most nutritious meat?  At the very least, you should seek out more heritage and special breeds of cows and pigs, from Wagyu cattle to Mangalitsa pigs. 

As for seafood, most of it consumed by Americans is limited to 10 different types, including Shrimp, Salmon, Tuna, Tilapia, Alaska Pollock, Pangasius, Cod, Crab, Catfish, and Clams. With our proximity to the coast and access to the vast bounty of the sea, our seafood consumption should range much wider. We have so many other options available to us. Why not venture out to consume more mussels, dogfish, sardines, mackerel, fluke, and much more?  

Let's also consider restaurant drink programs. Too many people demand to find California Chardonnay on a restaurant wine list. By catering to this demand, and other similar ones, wine lists can become very boring. Fortunately, there some courageous restaurants, such as A Tavola and Krasi, which have taken a bold stance, restricting their wines to a single country, the country of their chosen cuisine. Would you expect to find a Neapolitan pizza on the menu at a Sushi restaurant? No. Would you expect to find a cheeseburger on the menu of a Spanish tapas restaurant? No. In a similar vein, diners shouldn't expect that a restaurant, concentrating on a specific cuisine, will carry wines from all regions of the world. Diners need to be more adventurous, willing to try different wines from the popular Chardonnay, Cabernet or Sauvignon Blanc. 

Why have Americans become so boring with their food choices? Primarily, it's a psychological issue, and rarely a taste issue. Customers "think" they won't like a meat, seafood, or wine, even though they have not tasted it. They choose to stick with the familiar rather than take a risk. They get into a rut, always ordering the same dish at specific types of restaurants. However, by doing so, they compel some restaurants to conform to their boring tastes, and the industry overall suffers. Restaurants would like to take more chances, but it needs to be financially viable. And with too many boring customers, the risk isn't often worth it.   

Stop being so boring, and let your palate take an adventure. Let more Boston restaurants embrace creativity and innovation! 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) This Thanksgiving, The Vermilion Club, in downtown Boston, is rolling out a three-course prix-fixe menu that elevates the classic holiday meal with Chef John Fraser’s ingredient-obsessed, chophouse-meets-seasonal cuisine. 

The experience begins with freshly baked Hawaiian rolls served with rosemary-pineapple butter. For starters, guests can choose from inventive dishes like French Onion Dumplings (featuring truffle, Gruyère, and shiitake consommé), a crisp Kale & Chrysanthemum Salad with radish and lemon-breadcrumb vinaigrette, or an earthy Pear & Beet Salad with hazelnut dukkah and whipped goat cheese.

On to the mains: the menu offers a choice between a Roasted Heritage Turkey Breast (complete with a confit leg, roasted parsnip, and baby kale), a vegetarian Roasted Honey Nut Squash over farroto with puffed quinoa and Swiss chard, as well as more elevated options like Seared Ora King Salmon (with celery root, winter truffle & maple-mustard glaze) and Glazed Short Rib paired with Anson Mills polenta and Cipollini onions. For a full menu, see HERE.  

Priced at $85 per guest, the three-course menu is available Thanksgiving Day from 12 to 8 p.m. and requires a Reservation HERE.

2) The Nautilus Pier 4's has brought back their holiday lunches, with more dates added through December and into the new year. Guests can enjoy items like the Peking-Inspired Whole Roasted Duck, the Holiday Lunch Burger with foie gras dipping sauce and more. 

Chef Stephen Marcaurelle and his team have created a festive and indulgent holiday lunch menu featuring menu staples as well as indulgent seasonal specials. Wine Director Brittany Tangora has curated a beautiful wine list to pair along with festive cocktails by General Manager Bill Sabine and the Nautilus beverage team.

WHEN: 11:30am- 3:00pm (bar open through dinner); December 4-6, 11-13, 18-20, 27-28 | January 2-3
Reservations open 14 days in advance

3) nine is introducing two weekends of elegant holiday lunches in their Beacon Hill space. The holiday lunch menu features a special Goose for Two – half a goose, seared breast, and sides as well as items from nine’s seasonal à la carte menu. Winter beverages include the Nephele (vodka, basil liqueur, red currant & clove foam) and the Epirus Spritz (hibiscus, blood orange, sparkling orange wine) and the Pick Your Own (zero-proof amaretto, apple cider, and lemon).

WHEN: December 11–14 and 18–21; Seating from 12–2:30pm;

Guests can linger post-lunch, as the bar remains open through dinner service.
Reservations HERE

Rant: During The Holidays, Pair Bubbly With Food

"You don't need to be a sommelier as sparkling wine pairs with everything."
--Marcello Lunelli

During the holiday season, many people will purchase Champagne or other types of Sparkling Wine, such as Prosecco, Cava, Franciacorta, Crémant, and Pet-Nat. However, when will you drink that bubbly? For most people, it'll merely be for an apertif or for a celebratory toast. Yes, it's excellent on these occasions but it can be so much more! 

Many people don't realize that Sparkling Wine also pairs very well with a wide variety of foods, and can be consumed throughout the course of a meal, from appetizer to dessert. When's the last time you enjoyed Sparkling Wine throughout your dinner? I suspect many people do not commonly enjoy it with their food. At best, it's most common to have Mimosas, bubbly and orange juice, for breakfast or brunch, but the bubbly isn't enjoyed on its own. 

Even restaurant sommeliers rarely recommend drinking Sparkling Wine with your dinner. And that's a mistake. Sure, there are plenty of wines that pair well with food, but why omit Sparkling Wine from the discussion? I can't recall the last dinner I attended where a sommelier ever recommended a Sparkling Wine with my appetizers or entree.

Wine lovers need to get over their misconception that Sparkling Wine is mainly an aperitif or celebratory wine. They need to take the chance and drink it with whatever they choose to eat, from seafood to steak, pasta to Chinese food. It's a versatile wine when it comes to food pairings, and it can be so delicious. 

When I previously visited the Champagne region, I experienced Champagne paired with nearly all of my food courses, for both lunch and dinner. I found Champagne to pair well with so many different dishes and you really can't go wrong selecting it for your meal. No matter what the cuisine, Champagne would be a fine accompaniment and it doesn't have to be paired only with high-end cuisine. Why not enjoy Champagne with pizza? Or tacos? Or just a bag of salty potato chips?

Champagne and other Sparkling Wines are produced in a variety of styles, in different sweetness levels, and its diversity assists in making it friendly with a variety of cuisines. Rosé bubbly is one of my favorite styles, and I've found it great with many different foods. I urge you to experiment with food pairings. Grab a bottle of Sparkling Wine and drink it with whatever you're eating. You'll be surprised at how good it tastes with your food. And if you have guests, they'll think you're a wine genius for pairing bubbly with all the dishes.

Mirena Bagur: New Executive Director of the Global Artisan Vintners Alliance

Back in March, I reported on the formation of The Global Artisan Vintners Alliance (AVA), which will "promote collaboration and exchange of information between winemakers, wine associations, government representatives, tourism and economic development organizations, and business associations. Representatives of the partner wine regions will actively participate in professional development opportunities through discussions about winemaking techniques and sustainability methods, student and professional intern exchanges, and sharing of best practices around economic development, agri-tourism and marketing initiatives to elevate the global presence of the participating wine region, among other opportunities."

The Global Artisan Vintners Alliance (AVA) has now announced that it has appointed Mirena Bagur, pictured above, as the Executive Director. “Proud of what we’ve accomplished so far and recognizing the need for the Alliance to enter a new phase, I am pleased to name Mirena Bagur as the Executive Director. After working with Mirena for a year, I am confident she will leverage her international experience, gravitas and passion, as well as knowledge of the wine industry, to lead the organization in expanding its footprint and strengthening relationships among members, ” said David Haubert, Alameda County, District 1 Supervisor, who played a pivotal role in the establishment of the Global AVA, and serves as its President. Haubert added, “Mirena will also focus on enhancing collaboration with value-added education among the partner wine regions.” 

Mirena’s career includes working in the high-tech industry where she led global campaigns for many brands in a large global agency, including a focus on healthcare when she taught an entrepreneurship course at Harvard/MIT. She has been an active member of many entrepreneurial and business mentoring associations, and has cofounded Croatian Premium Wine Imports, Inc. In that role, she collaborates with numerous Croatian government agencies, business and wine associations, and leverages her business experience to uplift the education about Croatian indigenous wines as a tool for promoting the Croatian economy and tourism in the US. She is also involved in various cultural organizations. Mirena holds a masters of economy degree, focused on international trade from the University of Zagreb, Croatia. 

“It’s already been inspirational to work with the founding members of the Global AVA and I’m fortunate to have the opportunity to work with the Supervisor’s team in Livermore and all the regions as we figure out how to meaningfully collaborate moving forward,” said Mirena Bagur. “So far, we’ve had a year to familiarize and discuss similar topics to address, and I look forward to leading the Global AVA into our next phase when our work will become better known to potential new regions. We will also create additional forums for knowledge sharing and collaboration. I’d like to extend my gratitude to the existing alliance members for their excitement and collaboration to date and am happy to announce we will have the in-person opportunity to exchange ideas at the next annual Summit, which will take place in Hungary in late March 2026.” 

I've known Mirena for a number of years, and have traveled with her twice to Croatia. She's an excellent choice as Executive Director, and I can attest to her deep passion for wine and her great grasp of organizational details. When the Global Artisan Vintners Alliance was initially formed, I could see her dedication to the goals of this new group, and believe will work hard and do her best to promote the objectives of this organization. Congratulations to Mirena!

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) On Thanksgiving Eve (11:30am-2pm + 4:30pm-9pm) and Thanksgiving Day (12pm-7pm), The Wellington, in Belmont, will be open for lunch & dinner for dine in and take out serving its a la carte lunch and dinner menus with an additional individual Free Range Heritage Turkey Dinner Platter available on Thanksgiving Day. 

The Free Range Turkey Dinner Platter will be portioned for one person at $49, will be available for dine in or take out on Thanksgiving Day, and will feature carved turkey, classic stuffing, potato puree, home-style gravy, candied butternut squash, green bean almondine, and cranberry sauce. 

Order Deadline/Pick Up Info: Pre-orders for Turkey Platters can be placed online via Toast or by calling (617) 932-1750 up to 2 days in advance (by Tuesday, November 25th at 9pm). Turkey Platter pickups will be available on Thanksgiving Day only between 12pm-6:45pm.

2) il Casale Lexington will be open on Thanksgiving Eve from 4:30pm to 9:00pm serving its a la carte dinner menu, but closed on Thanksgiving Day. 

For any easy pre- or post-Thanksgiving entertaining needs, il Casale will be offering its catering menu and Family Feast take out menu. For $85 serving 4-5 people, il Casale’s Family Feast consists of choice of tray of pasta (Fusilli Pasta with Ragu Bolognese, Tufoli Pasta with Tomato Sugo & Meatballs, or Fusilli Pasta with Chicken Marsala & Mushrooms), mixed greens salad with house vinaigrette, and il Casale’s signature pugliese potato bread. 

Order/Pick Up Info: Catering orders can be placed online via Toast with 2 days notice (Tuesday, November 25th). Family Feast orders can be placed online via Toast as late as the same day. Pick up times vary based on the customer, but the latest pick up time will be Thanksgiving Eve from 4:30-9:00pm.

The Boston Wine Expo Returns in 2026

The Boston Wine Expo is returning in 2026, back at the Park Plaza Hotel, on Saturday, March 7 and Sunday, March 8. The 2-day event will feature over 100 participating wineries from all over the U.S. and select international ones as well. The new Expo is organized by Raffaele Scalzi, the Boston Wine Expo Show Director and Founder of Scalzi Hospitality Corporation.  

There will be two Grand Tastings on both Saturday and Sunday from 1:30 – 3:30 p.m. and 4:30 – 6:30 p.m. At each Grand Tasting, you will be able to taste many different wines, to expand your palate and experience wines that are new to you. Please note that tickets to one Grand Tasting do not allow you access to any of the other Grand Tasting events. Tickets are now available HERE. The Saturday 1:30-3:30 session costs $89, while the other three sessions cost $93.08. I'll note this is a slight decrease from last year's price of $95 per session.

They are planning to have 12 different Tasting Classes, but none of them have been listed yet. Last year,  each class lasted 90 minutes, and tickets cost $75 per person. I'm sure that the schedule of Tasting Classes will likely be added in the near future. So, just keep an eye on their website to learn what new Tasting Classes get added.  

A list of the participating wineries and distributors has also not yet been released. When that information becomes available, I will post an article with my own recommendations for the wine and spirit booths that Expo attendees should visit. 

I've attended the prior Boston Wine Expos, and overall, I've been very pleased to see its return. It's a smaller, and more intimate event than what the Expo used to be when it was at the Seaport Hotel & World Trade Center. I have tasted numerous excellent wines at these events during the last two years. I would like to see more diversity in the wines they showcase, but we shall see what this years bring. In the near future, I'll also post my advice and suggestions for making the most of your Boston Wine Expo experience.  

For additional information, sponsorship + exhibitor opportunities, and to purchase tickets, please visit Boston Wine Expo. 

Rant: DON'T DRINK & DRIVE.....OR ELSE!

As the holidays approach, nearly all of you are planning to attend festive holiday parties with family and friends. I want to give you an important piece of advice.

Now, it couldn't be any simpler so please listen carefully. This is one of the most important pieces of advice you'll receive this holiday season. Please, please, please give this your full attention!

If you've had too much alcohol to drink, if there's any, absolutely any, doubt in your mind, don't drive. Just don't do it! Any questions? 

Once again, I step forward with probably my most important Rant of the Year. It's an absolutely vital issue for everyone who enjoys alcohol of any type, from wine to beer, from Scotch to hard cider. With the imminent advent of the holiday season we reach a potentially dangerous period for those people who over indulge, who drink too much at parties, feasts and gatherings. There is nothing wrong with that, and you can drink as much as you desire, as long as you give up your keys to someone who is sober, and you do not drive.

As I've said multiple times before, and which I'll repeat year after year, "If there is any question, no matter how small, whether you are too intoxicated to drive, then don't. If your family or friends think you have had too much to drink, don't drive. Just don't. It is not worth the risk by any calculation." Err on the side of caution so that if you have any doubt of your capacity to drive, then please don't drive. Take a taxi or Uber, catch a ride with someone else, walk or sleep it off. Just don't drive!

Rationally, we all know the dangers of drinking and driving. We endanger our own lives as well as the lives of others. Every year, we hear multiple news reports about terrible auto accidents, some with fatalities, that occur because a driver was intoxicated. Families are torn apart, lives are ruined, and much more. Why don't we learn from all these incidents? Even if you don't get in an accident, you might get arrested for drunk driving, with all the attendant high costs, and not just economic. You might even end up in jail.

About 8,000 people were arrested for drunk driving in Massachusetts in 2024, and about 75% of those arrested were men. That's a huge figure, showing that far too many people still don't understand that they should not drink and drive. Did you know that if you only had two drinks in a hour, you might still have a blood alcohol level over the legal limit? How difficult is it to understand? DON'T DRINK & DRIVE! I'm sure drunk driving incidents in other states are just as significant.

As a more sobering statistic, 12,429 people (including over 280 children) in the U.S. were killed in drunk driving accidents in 2023. In 2021 and 2022, each year had seen over 13,000 fatalities, so the numbers have decreased a small amount, but that's obviously still far too many deaths. It needs to change and change now. 

Each time you drink and drive, you endanger yourself, your passengers, pedestrians, cyclists, and people in other vehicles. Let someone else drive you, whether it be a friend or family. Take an Uber or public transportation. Leave your car where it is parked as you can always pick it up the next day. You have plenty of options so there is absolutely no reason to drink and drive. Be responsible.

I don't want to lose any family or friends this year due to a drunk driving accident. I don't think anyone wants to lose their loved ones either. Your family and friends would rather you didn't drink and drive as they don't you to die in a terrible drunk driving accident. So please just don't!

I should also add that this applies to driving while under the influence of any drug, from marijuana to cocaine. Drugs also negatively alter your driving abilities, and legally you can be charged with operating under the influence of those drugs, and not just alcohol. 

DON'T DRINK & DRIVE.....OR ELSE!

Rant: Restaurant Expectations Failed

Over the weekend, friends invited us to dinner, to celebrate our 30th Anniversary. We dined at a local high-end steak house, a restaurant that none of us had previously dined at. I've read some positive reviews of the restaurant, but was aware of a few complaints as well. I've been to many other high-end steakhouses, so I had big expectations for this restaurant, especially considering its high menu prices. However, would it compete on the same level as these other steakhouses? 

Overall, I wasn't impressed with the restaurant, and it didn't live up to my expectations. Personally, I don't plan on returning there again. There are plenty of much better options if I want to visit a high-end steakhouse. 

First, their customer service started off very well, when our friends were able to change our original reservation, moving it up a week, fitting us in on a Saturday night. That seemed like a good sign, and even raised my expectations ever higher. When we arrived, the restaurant was quite busy but we were able to sit immediately. I liked the look of the restaurant as well.

Second, as the restaurant was packed, it was noisy, making conversation difficult even just across the table. If it's tough to speak to my dining companions, there's a problem. Unfortunately, this seems to be a common issue at too many restaurants. Why should that be so? It doesn't seem that it would benefit a restaurant to be so noisy.

Third, there were a number of issues with the food. In general, they were small issues, but they weren't the type of issues I expect from a high-end restaurant. Their dishes should be close to impeccable, to justify the quality and high prices of the restaurant. For example, one of the salads included an inedible lettuce stem, the part of the lettuce you normally discard. Why would anyone include it on a dish? It didn't add anything of value to the salad.

In addition, my Arancini didn't possess the crispy exterior they should possess. It tasted fine in other respects, but I expected that a high-end restaurant would have ensured the crispiness of the arancini. My lobster tail was a bit overcooked, and thus a little tough. Overall, the dishes were generally tasty, but they didn't reach the quality I expect from a high-end restaurant. 

Fourth, there were service issues, with the main problem being that our table ordered a second bottle of wine but our server never brought it. There were a few other smaller issues as well, and the server didn't appear to be new. However, I also noted that at two nearby tables there were dishes/glasses that were dropped or fell to the floor, and our server was nearby at both incidents. 

In addition, although the restaurant was well aware we were celebrating our 30th wedding anniversary, the restaurant did nothing to commemorate that occasion. They certainly were not obligated to do so, but high-end restaurants commonly do so. It gives people an additional reason to consider such restaurants for special occasions.   

This restaurant isn't new, and has garnered some very positive reviews in the media, but my experience didn't live up to my expectations. With all of the other high-end steakhouses in the area, I have no incentive to return to this restaurant. Could it have been simply a bad day? Maybe, but I'm not going to spend all that money to find out. They had a single opportunity to impress me and failed to do so. 

What are your expectations for a high-end restaurant?  

By the way, I'm not going to identify the name of the restaurant. It's not necessary for the basic point of this rant, and before naming it, I would need to speak to the restaurant, to discuss their response to my complaints.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) On November 1, Margaritas Mexican Restaurant, located at 211 Moody Street, Waltham, is getting the party started early with the debut of their weekend Brunch service. Available weekends from 11:30am-2:00pm, Margaritas will be dishing out classic Mexican breakfast specialties, creations with a signature twist, and brunch-favorite cocktails.

Indulge in plates like Breakfast Tacos with farm eggs, a meat choice (carnitas, bacon, chorizo), crispy potatoes, peppers, scallions, a blend of cheese and cilantro served with sour cream and salsa fresca; Mexican Churro-Style French Toast with cinnamon sugar-dusted French toast doused in dulce de leche sauce, topped with vanilla cream and pineapple salsa; Carnitas Benedict, crispy pork carnitas and poached eggs atop an English muffin with a smoky chipotle hollandaise, served with crispy street corn potatoes; and the vegan Classic Southwest Tofu Scramble with marinated tofu, charred peppers, onions, black beans, tomatoes, jalapeños and cilantro served with grilled flour tortillas.

Get your sip on with a collection of Mexican-inspired cocktail specialties including the Bloody Maria, Michelada, Tequila Sunrise, a Proseccorita Flight, and more. 

Rant: Holiday Wines? Don't Be A Cheapskate

The holiday season is here, and many people will stop by their local wine shop to purchase wines for parties, dinners, or gifts, for Thanksgiving, Christmas, or other holidays. Let me provide you an important piece of advice, which applies to all the wine you'll purchase this holiday season.

Don't be a cheapskate! 

In preparation for the holidays, people stock up on wine to serve their guests at the various parties, feasts, dinners and celebrations. Often, because they are buying bottles in bulk, purchasing multiple bottles, their primary concern is price, not quality. So, they too often buy the large, commercial "value" wines, the brand names which are known to everyone. 

Please don't do it! 

It takes almost no thought to buy such wines. Though such wines might be drinkable, they aren't going to impress anyone. You've chosen to take the cheapest route possible, in both price and time. These wines are generally industrial products, created to taste the same year to year, and you never know what additives might be in these wines. They are like the McDonald's of the wine world. Do you really want to serve such wines to your loved ones, your family and friends?

There's a better way. 

If you're hosting a holiday party, don't you want to impress your guests? Or do you want to be known as the person who bought the cheapest wine available? Don't you want your guests to leave the party talking about the great time they had, telling others about the delicious wines they enjoyed? Or would you rather have them later complain that the wine was unappealing? It only takes a little extra work and price to elevate your wine selections.

I certainly understand the need to control your wine costs when you are providing for a number of guests. You don't have to buy $50 wines to impress your guests and you don't even have to spend $20 per bottle. I've purchased numerous $10-$15 wines, only a few dollars more than you might otherwise spend on those "value" wines, and brought them to parties where the other guests loved them, wanting to know where they could buy them.

There are good and interesting wines at this price point, if you know where to seek them out. If you want your holiday celebration to be even more popular, then you should serve those type of wines. The extra effort will elevate your party and please your family, friends, and other guests.

How do you find these inexpensive but interesting wines? At whatever wine shop you visit, it might be best to ask the wine store staff for recommendations of their best value wines. They should be able to direct you toward those inexpensive wines which will be more interesting and delicious than those cheap commercial wines. For example, at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose, where I work, I can recommend a number of much better value wines, from Vinho Verde to Montepulciano.

Most wine stores also offer a discount for bulk purchases, commonly 5-20%, and sometimes for as little as 3 bottles, which makes your wine cost even less expensive. And these are usually discounts that the wine store doesn't provide for the large-scale, commercial "value" wines. So, with those discounts, your prices for these better value wines can be even closer to that of the large-scale, commercial "value" wines.  

If for some reason you can't ask a store employee for some recommendations, then my best advice for selecting a good wine that is $15 or under, is to buy a Portuguese wine. I think some of the greatest value wines are coming out of Portugal, especially at this price point. Chances are that if you purchase a Portuguese wine costing $15 or less, you'll find a delicious wine, much better than similarly priced wines from most other regions. And there are plenty of Portuguese wines available in that price range. There is probably no other wine region where you can find as many good wines at that price point.

You also should know that paying a few dollars more for your wine can make a big difference. When you start considering wines priced from $15-$20, your options increase drastically. You can find some interesting wines from all over the world in that price range, though they still offer value. And if you are buying in bulk where the wine store offers a discount for larger purchases, you can save enough money so that the wines end up priced closer to $15 or less per bottle.

So this holiday season, don't buy the same old cheap wines. 

It won't take much effort to select some better choices, and still very inexpensively. In the end, you'll impress your guests, make your holiday party more memorable, and drink better wines.

(This is a revised version of a post originally from 2009.  It's an important enough issue to raise it again.) 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Located in Belmont’s center, The Wellington, helmed by executive chef & co-owner Dante de Magistris, has officially launched lunch, which is now available Tuesdays through Saturdays from 11:30am - 2:00pm. 

The new Lunch Menu can be found online here, and a sampling of the new lunch menu items include:
Mortadella Sandwich – thinly sliced mortadella with pistachios, ricotta, muffuletta olive mix, arugula pistachio pesto, italian sub roll, served with side of fries or salad ($23)
Caprese Sandwich – heirloom tomatoes, imported buffalo mozzarella, fresh basil, italian sub roll, served with side of fries or salad ($22)
Spinach Artichoke Flatbread – the classic dip baked over crispy flatbread, marinated artichoke hearts ($17)
Fried Chicken Sandwich – house fried chicken thigh, napa slaw, chili glaze, buttermilk ranch, pickles, kaiser bun, served with side of fries or salad ($22)
NY Bodega Chopped Cheese Sub – griddled and chopped beef with vidalia onions, peppers, pickles, well sauce and cheese on an iggy's italian sub roll, choice of fries, or salad ($24)

2) The Tavistock Restaurant Collection restaurants will be open on Thanksgiving Day serving their full dinner menus enhanced with Thanksgiving specials and prix fixe offerings.

Abe & Louie’s: Back Bay steakhouse Abe & Louie’s will be dishing out a collection of Thanksgiving specials in addition to serving their á la carte menu. To start, there’s butternut squash soup ($13) with spiced crème fraîche and candied pumpkin seeds. For a taste of tradition, opt for the Vermont-raised turkey dinner ($52) complete with whipped potatoes, stuffing, roasted Brussels sprouts, cranberry sauce and gravy. For something sweet, dig into the pumpkin cheesecake ($14) topped with vanilla whipped cream and caramel. Reservations from 11am-10pm so please call (617) 536-6300.  

Atlantic Fish Co.: Serving Boston since 1978, Atlantic Fish Co. will feature their full menu of seafood classics in addition to holiday specials. Start with butternut squash soup ($12) with candied pepitas, crème fraiche and crispy sage, or a roasted cauliflower salad ($16) with baby kale, squash and maple vinaigrette. For the best from land and sea, the entrees are roasted turkey ($46) with whipped potatoes, stuffing, green beans, cranberry sauce and gravy, or pan-roasted monkfish ($48) with cauliflower puree, Swiss chard and gremolata. For dessert, a pumpkin cheesecake ($12) with cinnamon whipped cream. Reservations from 11am-10pm so please call (617) 267-4000. 

Coach Grill: In Wayland, the Coach Grill will feature a Thanksgiving prix fixe ($72) in addition to their signature menu. For appetizers, there is butternut squash bisque with spiced crème fraîche, or a shaved Brussels sprouts salad with hazelnut, cranberry and lemon-thyme vinaigrette. For entrees, there’s roasted turkey with whipped potatoes, stuffing, butternut squash, green beans, cranberry sauce and gravy, or local sea scallops with vegetable risotto and Meyer lemon beurre blanc. For dessert, indulge in apple crumb tart with vanilla bean ice cream and salted caramel, or a pumpkin cheesecake with vanilla whipped cream. Coach Grill also offers a takeout Thanksgiving Family Feast (serves 4-6; $285) available for pickup in addition to á la carte sides by the tray – corn pudding ($45), traditional stuffing ($40), whipped potatoes ($40), green beans ($45), butternut squash ($50) – as well as quarts of gravy ($20) and cranberry sauce ($25). Reservations from 11am-8pm. Takeout orders can be placed through November 25 at 6pm for pickup on November 26-27 between 12-7pm. Please call (508) 358-5900. 

3) A couple other Thanksgiving dinner choices include:

Contessa Boston: Situated on the rooftop of The Newbury Boston, Contessa Boston, overlooks the city skyline, bringing the flavors of Northern Italy to Boston, and Thanksgiving is no exception. For Thanksgiving, guests can enjoy family-style dining ($195 per person) For the primi course, choose from Contessa's Meatballs Aldo, served with whole grain mustard sauce,or the famous Squash Carpaccio, featuring arugula, pumpkin seeds, and agrodolce. For the pasta course, enjoy Ricotta Gnudi di Pecora, served with black truffles. For the secondi course, there are several options including Roasted Turkey served with sage turkey gravy and select sides such as Turkey Stuffing, Cranberry Mostarda, and Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta. Those seeking an alternative to turkey, can order the Porterhouse for a $185 supplement. To end on a sweet note, choose from Pumpkin Gelato or Apple Pie. Please note that a 20% gratuity will be added to additional food and beverage. Reservations from 12:00pm to 8pm Thanksgiving Day. Please call (617) 741-3404. 

Matria Boston: The Northern Italian-inspired steakhouse at InterContinental Boston, Matria Boston, is celebrating Thanksgiving with several options for dining-in and to-go. In addition to Matria's full menu, guests can enjoy a special Traditional Roasted Turkey Dinner ($42) featuring roasted turkey with giblet pan gravy, chestnut focaccia stuffing, parsnip Yukon au gratin potatoes blended with Blue Hill cheese and pancetta, along with cranberry compote, and roasted fall vegetables including kabocha, corn, and brussels sprouts. To end dinner on a sweet note, there is the Chef's Dessert Table ($30 per person; $15 children ages 3-12) which includes coffee, tea, hot chocolate, or cider, along with nearly a dozen desserts and sweet treats like tiramisu, panna cotta, salted caramel cannoli, apple cider créme brûlée, sweet potato cheesecake lollipops, house-made pies, and gelato. *NEW* Those who crave leftovers are in luck, Matria will provide a small, packaged to-go box complete with sides and more to enjoy post-Turkey Day or as a Black Friday treat. Reservations are available for Thanksgiving dinner on Thursday, November 28, from 12:00 p.m. - 6:00 p.m. Please call (617) 217 5151. 

Rant: Don't Stress Over Choosing Your Thanksgiving Wines!

Every year countless people stress over which wines to pair with their Thanksgiving dinner. These people also worry that their holiday might be a failure unless they have the correct wines. The media contributes to this worry, with countless articles about the "proper" wines to have on Thanksgiving. The holidays can be stressful enough without having to worry about the wine, especially when those worries are generally needless.

Cast your memory back to last year's Thanksgiving. Can you remember which specific wines you had with dinner? Can you remember the specific wines you had with Thanksgiving dinner two years ago?

I'm sure that nearly everyone won't be able to remember except maybe in the most general terms. Maybe they recall having had a Pinot Noir or a Riesling. They are unlikely to recall the specific producer or much else about the wine. What they are more likely to remember is the good (at least hopefully it was good) time they had, the family and friends that shared their table. They might remember that the food and wine was good or bad but the specifics may be foggy.

Do you really need to worry about specific Thanksgiving wine recommendations? I don't think so. The more I ponder the question, the more I realize that all you need for Thanksgiving are some good wines, the varietals and/or blends being much less important. As long as they do not blatantly clash with the meal, then they should work just fine. And few wines are going to so blatantly clash. Drink wines you'll enjoy and don't worry so much about "perfect pairings."

A Thanksgiving meal is diverse, with many different flavors, from savory to sweet, and many different textures. No single wine is a perfect pairing with all these different dishes. So you need wines that people will enjoy in of their own right. I don't think many hosts are seeking the "perfect" wine pairing. They simply want something that people will enjoy and which won't greatly detract from the food.

Plus, who will remember the wines next year?

We must also remember that any wine shared with good friends and family is likely to taste better, or at least seem that way, than one drank alone. The circumstances of the day, the good feelings, the fond memories, the thanks for the past year, will all lead to your wine seeming better. And it's all those surrounding circumstances that people will most remember about Thanksgiving. The wine will always take the back seat.

The wine is simply an extra, not a necessity. It pales in importance to everything else about the holiday. Like the Whos from "The Grinch Who Stole Xmas," there should still be joy even if all of the food and wine have been taken away.

I will bring a variety of wines to my Thanksgiving feast, a mix of sparkling wine, white, red and dessert wines. In general, I'll pick interesting and delicious wines that I feel people will enjoy. I won't spend much time worrying about pairing them with specific dishes and foods, although I will consider which wines might clash too much with the various dishes. I want wines that will make people smile, that will enhance the spirit of the day.

If you want some assistance with selecting wines to make your guests smile, then come see me at the Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet shop in Melrose. I can show you plenty of delicious and interesting wines which would work well for your Thanksgiving table. I can show you different wines rather than the traditional pairings. Everyone else might bring the standard wines, so why not stand out by bringing a more unique wine?

Consider wines, both whites and reds from Croatia, Greece, Uruguay, Peru, Lebanon, Hungary, or Georgia. The shop has wines from around 25 different countries. Consider Unoaked Chardonnay from Australia, Pinot Noir from New Zealand, or Bonarda from Argentina. Pick up some Bubbly, from Cava to Cremant, Grower Champagne to Mexican Sparkling Wine. If you want something domestic, consider a White Pinot Noir from Oregon or Gewurtztraminer from California. Try an Orange Wine, a skin-contact white wine, which goes well with roast turkey. You should also consider Sake for your Thanksgiving table, which is actually a very food friendly beverage, and we have a diverse selection from Sparkling Sake to Junmai Daiginjo. If you want more Natural Wines, the store stocks over 300 such wines. For after-dinner consumption, consider Port (Ruby to White) or Sherry.       

Please also check out our weekly Wine Tastings, held on Thursday nights from 5-7pm and Saturday afternoons from 1-4pm. During the upcoming tastings, we will be showcasing numerous wines which will be fitting for Thanksgiving. Come see me and taste something different.

Whatever you do for Thanksgiving, enjoy yourself and appreciate all that you have, rather than worry about what you do not.

(This is an expanded/revised version of a post originally from 2009. My basic sentiment has not changed one iota since that time and I felt it was important enough to raise it once again.)