I'll also note that the earliest "Italian" restaurants were simply owned by Italians, but their menus had few Italian dishes, mainly pasta dishes, and commonly offered far more French or American dishes. In addition, menu items were rarely mentioned in the newspapers, except for a few dishes, such as Spaghetti and Ravioli. So, it can be difficult to get a full picture of the known Italian restaurants. In my future researches, I'll be trying to seek out old menus from these restaurants.
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The North End was once a prestigious neighborhood but around the middle of the 19th century, poor German and Irish immigrants began settling in the North End, which drove the wealthy away. And by 1850, much of the North End was considered a slum neighborhood. During the 1860s and 1870s, some Italian immigrants also began settling in the North End.
The first mention of an "
Italian colony" in the Boston area may have occurred in the
Boston Herald, June 7, 1869, in the above advertisement.
However, the term "Italian colony" wasn't seemingly mentioned again until nine years later, in the Boston Evening Transcript, May 22, 1878. There was a letter to the editor, titled “Boston’s Italian Colony. ” The letter mentioned that Italians were having trouble finding work, such as difficulty in obtaining licenses to be fruit peddlers or organ grinders. It then stated, “They are here, and they must starve or become a burden upon the city, if the question rests long enough where authority belongs. Can’t the powers that be be made to see the necessity of allowing the poor creatures to pursue inoffensive calling?”
The evidence seems to indicate that the earliest Italian restaurant in Boston, operated by
J.M. Bonacina & Co., opened in 1867, a year before Vercelli's allegedly opened in 1868. Like Vercelli's, this was also a French and Italian restaurant. The
Boston Herald, November 13, 1867, published this advertisement, noting the restaurant was located at 7 Bromfield Street and would open on the 14th. The management of the kitchen would be under "
the most experienced and professional French Cooks in the city." The ad also stated, "
Gentlemen will find at this Restaurant many dishes not served at any other place in Boston." This could refer to the Italian dishes they offered, which might not yet have been available anywhere else in Boston. However, this restaurant may not have done well, as this was the only mention I could locate about it.
It should be mentioned that a number of the first Italian restaurants did not offer a full Italian menu. Instead, they were owned by Italians, and offered only a few Italian dishes, and most often pasta, such as spaghetti and ravioli.
Four years later, there was a curious item in the
Boston Daily Evening Transcript, August 5, 1871. Under a column titled, “
News & Miscellaneous Items,” there was a long list of brief bits, touching on Boston as well as other cities. One of those items stated, “
In the Italian restaurants of this city—and the numbers are increasing fast—the consumption of eggs is something enormous. Eggs in some form or another are sure to be demanded by every customer as a supplement to the other dishes. Omelettes mixed with sausage are very popular; and a salad is never served up without hard-boiled eggs.”
This item didn't specifically state it referred to Boston, and could have referred to another city. At this time, there doesn't appear there were an increasing number of Italian restaurants in Boston. In fact, the newspapers at this time didn't mention the existence of any other Italian restaurants and none of the later references ever mentioned this alleged fascination with eggs. I suspect the item referred to another city, and not Boston
At this time, there were about 1,500 Italians in Boston, but the community was growing so that in the first half of the 1870s, the St. Leonard of Port Maurice Church as established on Prince Street, making it the first Italian parish in New England. In 1876, there were about 800 Italians in the North End, a couple hundred Italians in the rest of Boston, and about another 2000 in the surrounding communities. By 1880, about 26,000 people lived in the North End, mostly Irish, with about 1,000 Italians.
Of these Italians, most of them were from Northern Italy, and many of them were able to purchase property in the North End. However, from 1880 to 1920, over four million Italian, mostly from Sicily and Southern Italy, immigrated to the U.S. They were fleeing from terrible economic conditions in Italy, and most were farmers, fishermen and laborers. Many didn't speak English, and the Northern Italians usually looked down on these Southerners. Many ended up living in crowded and dirty tenements, and eventually a number of Northerners left the North End to settle elsewhere.
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The first Italian restaurant to open in the
North End, of which we have specific evidence, was
Chezzi's restaurant, located on North Street, roughly across the street from 150 North Street. The
Boston Post, September 13, 1896, mentioned that Chezzi's existed at least as far back as 1872, and possibly earlier. Around 1874, Chezzi's restaurant moved across the street, to a small brick building at 148 & 150 North Street.
One of the cook's at his restaurant was Bernardo Ambrosoli, who probably started working there around 1872. In 1875 or 1876, Bernardo had saved enough money to buy out Chezzi, and it became his restaurant. However, the earliest newspaper to mention Ambrosoli was in 1881.
Boston Globe, June 10, 1881, noted that Bernardo had applied for a liquor license at 148 North Street. A year later, the
Boston Globe, May 29, 1882, noted he had applied once again for a liquor license for 148 North Street.
The
Boston Daily Evening Transcript, January 5, 1883, discussed a private party that was held at Bernardo’s Italian restaurant. It was stated, “
There is not more than one other place in Boston where a regular Italian dinner can be served,..” This seems to indicate there are few Italian restaurants in Boston at this time. The menu for the private party included “
Chianti wine, thin sliced cylindrical sausage, vermicelli with grated cheese, rice with mushrooms, macaroni spiced, Brachetto wine, meat balls and fried potatoes, veal cutlets with lemon, celery and olives and oil, Gorgonzola Eborato cheese, black coffee, Razzetti straw cigars, Vino Vermouth, Malaga grapes, nuts, etc.”
There would be several brief references to Bernardo's restaurant throughout the next twelve years. Then, there was an assault on customers at the restaurant. The
Boston Herald, April 15, 1895, reported that a couple customers at the restaurant disliked one of the dishes they ordered. They complained so forcibly that it angered their waiter, and soon after, dishes and chairs were flying around. In the end, two waiters arrested were arrested for assault and two days later it was reported that they had been convicted.
A record fine! The
Boston Evening Transcript, August 22, 1895, reported that Bernardo Ambrosoli had to pay $1700, the “
largest single fine received by the United States Revenue Department in this district in seven years.” Why? “
He was found guilty of having taken whiskey from one cask and placing it in another without erasing the stamp. The Government claimed it had evidence that he had been doing that kind of business for years.”
A terrible tragedy. The
Fall River Daily Herald, September 12, 1896, and the
Boston Globe, September 12, 1896, and wrote that Bernardo Ambrosoli, age 54, had been shot and killed by a trusted employee,
Charles Bacigalupo (age 48), “
who was undoubtedly insane” and within 24 hours committed suicide. It was said that Charles had previously been subject to fits of insanity. The murder occurred on the third floor, where Bernardo slept. Bernardo was exiting his room when he encountered Charles, who shot him twice, in the right shoulder and the region of his heart. Previously, the two men had been very good friends.
It was noted that Bernardo was the proprietor of the
Philharmonica, an Italian restaurant at 150 North Street. Another newspaper mentioned that the Philharmonic was his hotel, and that the restaurant was located inside the hotel.
The
Boston Post, September 13, 1896, mentioned that the hotel was "
one of the best known Italian resorts in the district, and was often visited by the best people of the city when they went on slumming trips." The hotel has five floors, although only the first three were for business. the barroom was on street level while the restaurant was on the second floor. The third floor has several rooms for private dinners and the kitchen was located in the rear. The top two floors were rooms for the employees and Bernardo had a large room on the fourth floor. Charles had a room on the fifth floor, and had been an employee for 17 years.
It was also explained that five years ago, there was a disturbance in the barroom, and Charles ejected several guests. These "thugs" forced their way back in, and struck Charles in the head with a hammer. "For seven days he lay in the hospital with a fractured skull. It was a long time before he was able to resume his duties. When he did he was a different man. At times he was morose and sullen." About a week ago, Charles was told he was going to be replaced and left the hotel, not returning until the day of the murder.
As for Bernardo, it was said that he came to the U.S. in 1871, and "had learned the cook's art" but he couldn't find employment. He finally got a job as a laborer, but within a year, he had a new job as a cook at Chezzi's restaurant, on North Street, almost across the street from the future site of Bernardo's hotel. About 22 years ago, around 1874, Chezzi's restaurant moved across the street, to a small brick building. A year or two later, Bernardo had saved enough money to buy out the owner, and it became his restaurant.
Some believed that Bernardo was worth about $500,000, while others felt it was closer to $250,000. He was known as King of Little Italy because of his influence and social standing. He owned other businesses as well, including quarries in Quincy and Vermont, and two farms in Milford. In addition, he had a hotel, the San Bernard, in Milford.
The Boston Post, September 14, 1896, reported that the body of Charles Bacigalupo was found on the bank of the Neponset River in Hyde Park. He had committed suicide, shooting himself with the same revolver he used to kill Bernardo.
Initially, the Boston Globe, September 17, 1896, indicated that Robert Catani, and Guy Mafera, as Robert Catani & Co., had applied for a liquor license as inn holders of 148 North St., in Ambrosoli's hotel. However, the Boston Globe, September 30, 1896, then had a legal notice that Pietro Baruffi, Robert Catani, and Guy Mafera, as Pietro Baruffi & Co., had applied for a liquor license as inn holders of Hotel Ambrosoli at 148 and 150 North St. Then, the Boston Globe, December 21, 1896, reported that the Ambrosoli hotel, which had been closed, would reopen in two days by Pietro Baruffi, the nephew of Bernardo Ambrosoli.
'The Ambrosoli hotel was briefly mentioned as still being in operation in a newspaper article in November 1899, but then references seemed to vanish.
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Around 1877 or so, there was a small Italian restaurant open on Church Street. The
Boston Globe, October 23, 1892, briefly mentioned that “
About 15 years ago there was a small Italian restaurant on Church st. that furnished a very good table d’hote dinner for a very little money.”
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A lengthy article in the
Boston Post, April 15, 1881, expounded upon the Italian colony in Boston, providing lots of detail. First, the article tried to dispel some prejudices about the Italians. “
It is a mistaken idea that a great many people seem to have who regard the Italian colony of Boston as made up on the whole or in the majority of idle, vagabondish and vicious people.” The article continued, “…
after all the Italians in our midst are a very common place, industrious and inoffensive class of men and women. Astonishing as it may seem they live, work and do business very much like other folks, with, of course, certain marked national peculiarities.”
However, the article seemed to have its own general prejudice against all immigrants. “To be sure, we do not find among them the great, the talented, the renowned of their country, but no one ever expects to find the so-called higher classes of any nation among emigrants coming to our shores.” At this time, Boston had a population of about 1300 Italians, within about 1000 within the North End. “The Italian quarter takes in North, Hanover, Fleet, Ferry, Fulton, Salem, North Bennett, Cooper and Stillman streets. Thatcher court and Eastern avenue and other small streets and courts in the same localities.”
As for religion, the article noted, “They have one church, where nearly 300 families attend, so it is seen that most of their number are devoutly inclined.” The article then mentioned, “As a general rule they are not wealthy, or even well to do; yet the most of them manage to have the conveniences and many of the comforts and luxuries of life. A large majority of them are in comfortably circumstances, and the families are decently supported.”
It was then noted, “Most of the Italians coming to this country are poor and uneducated people. They have no capital to enable them to go into business for themselves, they are unable to find employment readily, on account of their ignorance of the English language;..” However, it was said, “Their National love of music leads some of them to become organ grinders or street violinists or harpists; the art instinct inherent in even the poorest and lowliest son of Italy manifests itself in the manufacture and sale of plaster images, and their fond recollection of the flowers and fruits more common in their own loved sunny Italy than the sunshine with us makes some of them moulders of artificial flowers and other venders of fruit.”
As for crime, “The Italians, as a class, may be reckoned as among our most orderly citizens, and the police who have occasion to come in contact with them say that they give less trouble than the people of most any other nationality. Drunkenness and other vices are not common except among the more degraded, and even then are of a less turbulent nature than among their Irish neighbors for instance.” This is contrary to many existing prejudices that the Italians were a violent people.
The article then explained some of the differences of a few of the various groups of Italians. “The Genoese…are the most numerous. They belong to a people of traders and shop keepers, and are largely found behind the fruit stands or in the stores, while some of them becomes mechanics and a few are common laborers. Of all the natives of Italy and Genoese are the most open hearted, liberal and sociable.” Next, “… the Neapolitans, who, for the most part, furnish us with our street musicians of all kinds. They are penurious, grasping and miserably. Their homes are dirty, and many who possess considerable wealth live in squalid poverty.” And then, “The image makers come from Tuscany, and are a little inclined to be aristocratic, holding themselves aloof from their other countrymen….Most of them are young, unmarried men, working together in bands of four or five,..”
Some specific Italians of note were then mentioned. “Perhaps the man best known among his countrymen is Mr. Joseph Nicolini, a large property owner at the North End. He and several associates own a large block of buildings in that section of the city, which a dozen years ago was worth $65,000 and is now taxed for $42,800.”; He is “one of the largest importers at the North End, of wine, olives, maccaroni, cheese, anchovies.” There was a brief reference to “Louis Bonnie, the well known jeweller and diamond broker,...” Finally, there was a short note of “J.B. Rosatto, a young Italian, educated in the Boston schools, has a large liquor establishment at the North End, and there are several other large importing houses among these people, where heavy stocks are carried and which are patronized extensively by up-town retail merchants.”
It was excellent to see a more positive image of the Italian community in Boston.
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The
Boston Evening Transcript, October 5, 1882, presented an PIC of ad for
The Carrollton, which was located on Providence Street, and was now open, newly fitted and furnished. The
Boston Evening Transcript, March 2, 1883, would later mention that The Carrollton was an Italian restaurant, located near the Public Garden.
The
Boston Evening Transcript, July 16, 1883, published an ad for The Carrollton, noting it offered “
All the Italian Dishes,” including a dinner, with a bottle of Italian wine, for $1.00.
The next day, the
Boston Daily Advertiser, July 17, 1883, also had an ad for The Carrollton, claiming it was “
The Original and Only Italian Restaurant.”
There were no further references to The Carrollton, so it might not have lasted long, for whatever reasons.
I'd like to note that in
An Alphabetical Guide to Boston (1883), compiled by
M.F. Sweetser &
Moses King, it stated that the Italian restaurants in Boston included
Bernardo's and the
Carrolton.
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The Boston Evening Transcript, May 11, 1883, stated that Octave Brogi had applied for a liquor license as a Victualler at 200 Hanover St. Four years later, the Boston Globe, March 19, 1887, stated that Octave Brogi had applied for a liquor license as a Wholesale Dealer at 200 Hanover St. The next year, the Boston Globe, March 17, 1888, reported that Octave Brogi had applied for a liquor license as a Victualler and Wholesale Dealer for 200 Hanover St. This was repeated in March 1889. Three years later, the Boston Globe, April 1, 1891, had a notice that Octave Brogi had once again applied for a liquor license as a Victualler and Wholesale Dealer for 200 Hanover St.
The Boston Post, March 20, 1897, noted that Octave and Adelaide Brogi, as Octave Brogi & Co., had applied for liquor licenses as Victualler and Wholesale Dealers at 198 and 200 Hanover St. The Boston Globe, April 1, 1899, indicated the Brogis applied for the same liquor licenses once again. And this would be repeated in March 1900, March 1902, March 1904, and March 1905 too.
Brogi's Italian Cafe! The
Boston Post June 28, 1901, published an advertisement for
Brogi's Italian Cafe, located at 198-200 Hanover Street. The ad states they have a "
new and spacious restaurant" and that they are "
One of the coolest spots in Boston." They stock all the popular brands of beer and ales on draught, as well Italian wines and liqueurs. A specialty was "
Spaghetti A La Brogi." Octave Brogi was the proprietor and Eugene Brogi was the manager.
This was the first time, since 1883, that Brogi's restaurant was given a name in the newspapers. It's unsure if "Brogi's Italian Cafe" was its name this whole time, or whether it changed at some point during the last 18 years.
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There were other Italian restaurants in Boston around 1883, but the names of some are not known, and the newspapers at that time weren't always helpful. The Boston Post, August 2, 1883, reported, "In fact there are several good Italian restaurants in Boston where the national bill of fare can be enjoyed by anyone who is seeking for a ‘new sensation’ in the gastronomical line." The article continued, “One is located on Hanover street and is already familiar to many; another is on North street, and those who are not deterred by the unsavory reputation of the locality will find a rich treat in store for them. It is a regular Bohemian sort of place." As for the North Street restaurant, “Maccaroni spahette (sic) and polenta and other unnamable Italian dishes are served in the most delectable manner, and you are invited to aid digestion with generous draughts of genuine Chianti, poured from wicker-encased flasks with necks like the leaning tower of Pisa."
The
Boston Evening Transcript, December 15, 1883, ran the above ad for
J. Ramella & Co., Importers, who brought in Asti, Chianti and other wines, as well as Macaroni, Olive Oil and Cheese. It appears this company existed for four more years until the company dissolved its partnership about July 1887.
There was an ad in the Boston Herald, February 12, 1884, for Saccoccio’s Italian Restaurant, at 45 Lagrange Street, and it noted that it offered “spaghetti a specialty every day.” They also offered dinner with a pint of Chianti wine and coffee for 90 cents. I'll note that Saccoccio was a prior steward at the Carrollton restaurant.
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Now let's return to the claim that Vercelli's was the first Italian restaurant in Boston, having opened on Boylston Street in 1868. The earliest newspaper reference I could find that was possibly related to Vercelli's was in 1881, thirteen years after its alleged founding. And the restaurant wasn't located on Boylston Street in 1881, although it would move there around 1885.
The
Boston Globe, June 10, 1881, indicated that
James Mitchell had applied for liquor license for a restaurant located at 21 Lagrange Street. Three years later, the
Boston Evening Transcript, April 25, 1884, briefly noted that “
The Italian and French Table d’Hote at Vercelli’s, No.21 La Grange street, is to Boston what Martinelli’s is to New York.” Was Vercelli's the same restaurant connected to James Mitchell? There is nothing I found that would make such a connection. It seems more likely that Mitchell sold the spot to Vercelli's at some point.
The first advertisement for Vercelli's was in
Boston Evening Transcript, April 29, 1884. It was an Italian and French restaurant, and a specialty was "
Tortoni Ice Cream." Tortoni was an almond-flavored ice cream or gelato, possibly invented by
Giuseppe Tortoni, a Neopolitan who owned a cafe in Paris where he served the ice cream.
There was a brief mention in the
Boston Globe, March 8, 1885, that the latest addition to Boylston Street was “
Vercelli’s Italian restaurant.” The
Boston Evening Transcript, March 14, 1885, presented an ad for Vercelli's Restaurant, now located at 52 Boylston Street. The restaurant served breakfast, lunch and dinner.
The
King’s Handbook of Boston (7th ed, 1885), mentioned that Vercelli’s, "
a capital Italian restaurant," opened in 1885 at 52 Boylston Street. This is further evidence that Vercelli's didn't open in 1868.
The
Boston Evening Transcript, January 6, 1886, posted a new ad for Vercelli's, noting that it had moved to 88 Boylston Street, and would re-open on January 14.
The
Boston Globe, January 15, 1886, briefly mentioned that the new location of Vercelli’s consisted of 3 floors of dining rooms, the largest which could seat 80 people. There were also "
numerous cozy little rooms" which could accommodate small parties of 8-12 people.
The
Boston Evening Transcript, July 19, 1886, published an ad mentioning that Vercelli's was also a direct importer of “
Chianti Wines and Flasks.”
There was a brief mention in the
Boston Globe, June 15, 1890, that
Joseph Vercelli and
J. Morello were the proprietors of Vercelli’s. It was also mentioned in the
Boston Evening Transcript, September 20, 1890, that Vercelli had leased 2 buildings on Beacon Street, planning to make one an Italian restaurant and the other a lodging house. However, the
Boston Post, February 9, 1891, reported that Vercelli and Morello had dissolved their co-partnership as of December 1, 1890, although it appears Vercello kept ownership of the Boylston Street restaurant.
Another move. The
Boston Evening Transcript, June 15, 1891, reported that Vercelli's restaurant had moved a third time, now to 200 Boylston Street, and the
Boston Globe, June 16, 1891, had a brief ad for the new location.
A Christmas advertisement provided more details on Vercelli's. The
Boston Evening Transcript, December 23, 1891, provided its location as 198 & 200 Boylston, and 36 & 38 Park Square. It was also noted they were an importer of Italian and French wines.
Vercelli ran into some credit issues, but was able to resolve them. The
Boston Evening Transcript, September 23, 1893, noted that he had made a cash settlement with his creditors, so the restaurant could continue to operate. Because of this good news, Vercelli offered special menus for Saturday and Sunday. The Saturday menu is shown above, and you'll note that the main Italian dish is "
Spaghetti Napolitaine."
The Sunday menu is pictured here, and you'll note the Spaghetti dish is joined by "
Ravioli a la Piemontaise." The ad also mentions that the restaurant has “
Rare old wines of Italian vintage.”
A Sunday dinner menu in the
Boston Globe, October 1, 1893, offered Spaghetti Napolitaine or Ravioli a la Genoise.
Unfortunately, the
Boston Globe, February 25, 1894 reported that
Joseph Vercelli, age 53, had died on February 23. The
Boston Herald, February 26, 1894, added that he had been ill for several months and had died of dropsy, an old term which refers to the build-up of fluids in the tissues. He was survived by a wife and son.
The
Boston Globe, April 7, 1894, noted that
Agnes M. Vercelli, Joseph's widow, had applied for liquor license for a restaurant at 59-63 Lagrange Street. The
Boston Globe, May 21, 1894, then published the above ad, noting Mrs. Vercelli was now the proprietor of Vercelli's Restaurant, located at 59-63 Lagrange Street. So, obviously the restaurant moved once again, away from Boylston, and back to Lagrange.
Another ad in the
Boston Globe, August 11, 1894, noted that Vercelli's, under Agenes, was "
still the Vercelli of old."
Gas explosion! The
Boston Globe, April 26, 1895, reported that there was a likely gas explosion in the cellar of Vercelli's, sustaining about $1000 in property damage. Only a couple people incurred minor injuries, including
Joseph Vercelli, the son of Agnes.
A new hotel. The
Boston Evening Transcript, December 19, 1895, noted that Agnes Vercelli and Vittorio Croce, as A.M. Vercelli & Co., had applied to transfer their liquor license from the Lagrange restaurant to 8 & 10 Hayward Place. The Boston Post, May 3, 1896, had the above advertisement for
Hotel Vercelli, located at 8 & 10 Hayward Place, and which offered a Special Table D’Hote Dinner.
Sadly, there was a death at the hotel. The
Boston Globe, January 4, 1897, reported that
Victor (Vittorio) Croce, age 34, who was one of proprietors of Hotel Vercelli, died, from gas in the room, which was probably an accident. He had been born in Italy and had no relatives in the U.S.
Shut down! The
Boston Evening Transcript, January 24, 1901, reported that the Vercelli Hotel was shut down by the police. Apparently, it had been running practically as a restaurant under a second-class hotel license, and this situation had gone on for 5 years without anyone noticing. There were 25 private dining rooms but there weren't any sleeping rooms. A hotel without any rooms! The
Boston Evening Transcript, February 5, 1901, added that Vercelli’s would be able to open as a restaurant, but would have to close on Sundays. The hotel license would be canceled and a new restaurant license woul be issued.
The
Boston Globe, March 9, 1901, noted that Agnes Vercelli and Joseph Vercelli had applied for a liquor license for a restaurant as well as wholesale dealers for 8 and 10 Hayward Place. However, further mentions of the restaurant vanished after 1901, so it might not have lasted much longer after this point. Overall, Vercelli's existed for at least 17 years, and maybe a bit longer.
And on a sad ending, the
Boston Evening Transcript, April 5, 1907, mentioned that
Agnes Vercelli died on April 3.
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In
Bacon’s Dictionary of Boston (1886), by
Edwin M. Bacon, there was an entry with a little information on the restaurants in the North End. “
This is a squalid section, but it is sometimes penetrated by epicures, who do not mind a little dirt, to enjoy one of its peculiar features, the macaroni dinners at the dingy Italian restaurants on North Street; among them the “Ristoranti Filarmonica” and the “Ristoranti Nazionale.”
The Ristoranti Filarmonica extends back at least to 1884. The Boston Evening Transcript, March 8, 1884, noted, "On passing through North street, one reads the Italian sign, 'Ristorante Filamonica,' (Philharmonic Restaurant). Unhappily, on either side of the door below is seen in plain English, Lager Beer Saloon."
From other information, the Ristorante Filamonica might have been Bernardo's restaurant, which was located at 150 North Street, and once was referred to in the newspapers as the Philharmonica.
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As an aside, when there were likely only a handful or so Italian restaurants in Boston, the Fall River Daily Herald, May 12, 1886, noted that New York City had 27 Italian restaurants, “some of them known all over the country, and there are some nobody would admit knowing.”
The Sunday Herald, March 6, 1887, briefly mentioned that there was an Italian restaurant located at 90 Cross Street, kept by Andrea Pietro. However, the Boston Globe, March 6, 1887, noted that Andrea had a saloon at 91 Cross Street.
Another positive comment about the Italian colony. The Boston Evening Transcript, July 30, 1888, first noted that the Italian colony was established on North Street, and eventually spread all over the North End, and even has branches in the South End, Charlestown, Cambridge and other outlying cities. The article then noted, “They formed a population that gave the police hardly any trouble.”
The Fall River Daily Herald, August 23, 1888, had an interesting article about the Italians in Boston, noting that there were currently about 8,000-10,000 Italians in Boston. The article then discussed macaroni, noting, “Macaroni is one of the cheapest of food products, and one of the most nutritious. An Italian macaroni factory, by the way, is a curious place to visit. There are a number of them in Boston.” It continued, “Macaroni is made by hand from flour and water. The dough is put into a cylinder about eighteen inches in diameter, the bottom of which is filled with holes. Then the dough is pressed through.” It then added, “the macaroni is then taken to a floor above and dried, when it is ready for use.”
The article next noted, “Only Italians can make macaroni.” It was also noted, “Of course the quality of that made in Boston does not equal that made in Italy. There they do it differently. The grain grown in southern Italy is better adapted for the purpose. It contains more gluten than the grain of more northern countries. The wheat is ground in a mill and is then sifted five times. What is left from the last sifting makes, of course, the finest quality of macaroni. Then it is made into dough and kneaded.”
The living conditions were then briefly discussed. “The Italian families live in tenements, usually three families to a room.” And then there was a more extended discussion of Italian organ grinders, hurdy gurdy men. "Their organs cost all the way from $75 for a fairly good one to $600 for a nice piano. the average is about $100." The organ grinders commonly are accompanied by monkeys. "The monkeys--those agile animals that delight the children--are picked up in various places. They are bought from sailors occasionally, but generally bought from dealers."
"
Sometimes the Italian dispenses with his hand organ and takes to monkeys altogether. There is a man in Boston who has trained a lot of monkeys and who eats and sleeps in the same room with them. On one side of the room are the monkeys. There are seven or eight of them confined in cages on the walls. On the other side is the Italian.”
The
Boston Globe, April 28, 1889, reported that 2000 liquor licenses had been applied for in the city, but only 780 were granted. 1500 saloons would find their liquor licenses soon revoked. 108 licenses were granted in the
North End, although it wasn't broken down by restaurants and saloons. However, a number of licenses were revoked, and it was said, "
In the North End there was an abundance of wailing and unhappiness,..."
The granted licenses were broken down by address and provided the name of the license holder, which generally was not the name of a restaurant or saloon. There were 10 licenses granted on Commercial street, 7 on Causeway, 2 on Canal, 7 on Friend, 6 on Endicott, 6 on Fleet, 9 on Hanover, 3 on Haverhill, 6 on North Market, 17 on North, and more. It seems North Street was the busiest street for liquor in the North End.
The
Sunday Herald, May 19, 1889, contained a lengthy article on “
North Street and Environs,” including delving into its history.
North Street, one of the two principal streets in the North End, was previously known by other names, including Ann Street, Fore Street and Front St, although parts of the street, at various times, were also known as Fish Street, Draw Bridge, and Conduit Street.
The article ranged through various topics, provided plenty of fascinating tidbits about the neighborhood. For example, “One of the oldest taverns in Boston was the Ship Tavern, which stood on the corner of North and Clark streets. It was built about 1650, and was only torn down a few years ago. It was known as Noah’s Ark, and was certainly a remarkable building.” In addition, it was mentioned, “What is now Harris street, next north of Clark, was once known as White-Bread alley, and is so laid down on the maps. It was named from the circumstance that the first penny rolls ever offered for sale in Boston baked there by Mme. Tudor.”
A retired police officer spoke to the writer, providing additional background. “The Italians are driving the Irish out of North street, as the Irish drove out the Yankees. Most of the Italians settled on the street own the property they live in, or most of that occupied by Italians is owned by men of their nationality.” He continued, “When I came on this route, twenty off years ago, the neighborhood was a bad one. There were nightly brawls, drunkenness was rampant, and men were stabbed and shot down frequently.” In addition, he said, “When I came on this beat most of the shops from North square down to Fleet street were what are known as ‘jilt shops.”
In a jilt shop, women would sit in or near the door, trying to entice men passing by, asking them to come upstairs to their room. The woman would then accept money from the men, who believed the woman was a prostitute. However, before any activity began, the woman would make an excuse to leave the room, promising to be back quickly. And she never returned, taking the man's money and leaving. The police would do nothing as the man had given the money for an illicit act.
The officer then stated that there were no longer any jilt shops on North street. This was due to the influx of Italians. “They are usually a peaceable, industrious and thrifty people, and the street is now quiet and peaceable at night as any other in the North end.” He also said, “Altogether the injection of the Italian element into the North end seems to be a gain for that section of the city.”
In a discriminatory comment, the officer noted there were 2 classes of Italians in the North end, the Northern and Southern. He said, “... the natives of Northern Italy are distinguished from those of the south, or Sicilian people, by their superior intelligence, finer physique, and for their capacity to get along in the world.” The Northerners were said to own most of the houses and many were quite wealthy. The Southerners composed most of the common laborers, and the families lived in very cheap tenements.
Finally, the officer briefly discussed "cheap Italian restaurants, of which there are a considerable number on North street, some of which combine with the eating house the sale of beer and wine, groceries, maccaroni, bologna sausages, etc. There are also some good Italian restaurants where fine dinners are served with Italian wine accompaniment. Maccaroni is a national dish, and it can be found every day and at all times in an Italian restaurant.”
At this time, most of those restaurants remained largely nameless in the newspapers, and it's unknown exactly how many existed although it seemed significant.
Contesting prejudices against the Italians! The Sunday Herald, November 3, 1889, noted that Boston had an average population of about 10,000 Italians. It then stated, “Ask the average Boston policeman for his idea of the Italian race,…He will tell you that they are harmless, innocent sort of people, who talk like chattering monkeys all the time in a language he cannot understand, do not get drunk, and never become aldermen or city officials. They give him less trouble than the other nationalities in Boston’s foreign population, they are spontaneously good natured, made happy with very little, …”
This positive image was further supported briefly in the Boston Evening Transcript, November 27, 1889, that noted “No doubt the Italian colony of immigrants at the North End have improved the general moral conditions of that region.”
A terrible fire! The Boston Globe, February 3, 1890, reported that a three-story brick house, at 261 North Street, caught afire. Boston hadn’t seen such a holocaust in quite some time. On the first floor, three men were in a room, drinking whiskey. Eventually, they started arguing and fighting, and one man threw a lantern at the two others. This started the fire, in the building which was occupied by 46 tenants and lodgers, mostly Italians. 11 people perished in the fire, while 5 others were taken to the Mass General Hospital where two of them later died. The three men who had been fighting all perished. It was noted that Mary Campbell’s dance hall at 263 North Street was used as a temporary morgue.
The
Boston Globe, February 24, 1890, printed this ad for
J.M. Hill’s Restaurant, located at Boylston and Washington Streets. Although most of their menu was French and American dishes, it did include “
Beef Braisee and Spaghetti” and “
Baked Bass Italienne.” Other advertisements for this restaurant, on April 18 and April 20, noted dishes of “
Spaghetti au Gratin” and “
Italienne Spaghetti, Parmesan Cheese.” Spaghetti seemed to be a very popular dish, and its uniqueness at the time probably helped its popularity as well.
The
Boston Herald, September 20, 1890, may have been the first newspaper to use the term "
Little Italy" to refer to the Italian colony.
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The
Boston Herald, March 26, 1890, noted that
Frank Palladino & Co. had applied for a liquor licenses for his restaurant at 187 North Street.
Frank Palladino. The Boston Post, May 5, 1891, described Frank Palladino as “with the phenomenal torso, a big, strong belt around it, with a long scar over one of his eyes, another over one of his cheeks..” He also owned an Italian restaurant in the North End.
The Boston Globe, July 7, 1891, provided a little more detail, as well as information on some illegalities. Palladino's Italian restaurant was located at 187 North Street. The police raided 2 Quincy Court, which adjoined his restaurant in the rear. The police alleged he was conducting an illegal liquor business and during the raid they seized 50 gallons of wine, 10 gallons of rum, 5 gallons of brandy, 20 gallons of mixed liquors, several empty wine barrels, dozens of lager beer cases, and hundreds of bottles and empty jugs.
The Boston Globe, March 17, 1892, noted that E.F. Palladino had a "saloon" at 187 North Street. It was also stated, "The saloon is a dark narrow place and bears an unsavory reputation. No liquor is supposed to be sold in the place, but it does a rushing business, and frequent friendly games of cards take place." Dishes of maccaroni are served there too.
This illegal liquor business didn't seem to prevent Palladino from trying to obtain a liquor licenses for his restaurant. The Boston Post, March 30, 1894, noted that Frank Palladino and John Iannaco, as Frank Palladino & Co., applied for a liquor license for the restaurant at 187 North St. A special Italian dinner was held to celebrate its opening, and it was stated, "...the fine Italian cuisine the perfection of gastronomy." Mentions of this spot vanish around this point, and it appears the saloon might have closed as other businesses begin to show up at this address.
A new hotel. The
Boston Post, April 21, 1895, stated that there was a new hotel, called both the
Richmond House and the
Richmond Hotel, at 104 Richmond Street and the proprietor was
E.F. Palladino. It also doesn't appear this hotel lasted too long, and by 1901, the building and land were sold.
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The first macaroni factory in Boston was established, on North Street, sometime around 1879-1881. The Boston Evening Transcript, February 20, 1891, noted that “Macaroni is no longer a distinctly Italian article of food; it is fast becoming a favorite dish with native Americans, and ‘macaroni a l’Italienne’ is often on the bills of fare at the leading hotels.” The article continued, “Although macaroni is imported from Italy to a certain extent, most of that which is consumed in Boston and New England is manufactured in this city. There are but two firms in Boston engaged in the manufacture, and the proprietors and their employees are all Italians.” The article then went on to describe the two factories, but failed to name either one of them.
The article began discussing the oldest macaroni factory first. “One of the concerns was started about ten or twelve years ago and it produced the first macaroni made in New England, the paraphrenalia necessary for its manufacture being brought from the sunny peninsula. These Italians made it by hand then and they make it by hand now…” It was located "on a short, narrow, dirty street down in the North End.”
The writer questioned one of the workers who described the machinery. ”On another side of the room was the apparatus used in the work. This consists of a great trough for mixing the dough, half a barrel of flour at a time; a queer looking triangular kneading board, with a great wooden knife attached to a two hundred pound stone weight suspended over it, lever fashion, the machine being worked by a man at the end of a ten-foot pole connected with the weight; and a cylinder about ten inches in diameter and two feet long, fastened securely in a vertical position. Over the cylinder is a large iron wheel, which is made to revolve by a lever in the hands of the workman. From the hub of the wheel runs an endless screw, and this screw forces an iron disc down into the big cylinder; the cylinder is capped at the lower end with a stout copper disc ‘peppered’ with many holes.”
At this factory, the macaroni is made by hand. “When the workman is going to make macaroni by hand ‘justa like Napoli,’ he puts half a barrel of flour into the big dough trough, pours in a sufficient quantity of tepid water, and with his hands and a big spoon works the mass into a thick paste. This requires twenty minutes of hard labor. The mass of dough is then transferred to the triangular kneading board, which has hard sides to keep the dough from falling off, and is briskly chopped for thirty or forty minutes with the great long-handled wooden knife suspended above the board.” The article provides additional details on the making as well. working by hand, two workers can turn two barrels of flour into macaroni.
After the macaroni is produced, it is then packaged for sale. “When dry, the macaroni is packed in 25-pound boxes lined with tissue paper, and sold to grocers. It brings $1.25 a box, whereas the imported macaroni brings from $1.50 to $2.00 a box at wholesale. The broken pieces are packed in separate boxes, and sell at about 3 ½ cents a pound at wholesale.” It was also stated, “There are from twenty to thirty kinds of macaroni (that is, that number of different shapes) but this place only makes eight or ten.”
The second factory, which other information would identify as the Boston Macaroni Company on Fulton Street which opened in 1890, used steam power rather than by hand. Because of the steam-powered machinery, “From six to ten barrels of flour are made into macaroni in a day,…” The owner was asked whether he could make macaroni as good as in Italy. The proprietor responded, "Perhaps not quite as good, because the climate is more moist in Boston, and great care must be taken to have the paste properly dried. That is the principal secret in its manufacture.”
The article then ended with, “Macaroni can be served in an almost innumerable number of ways. Americans break it into small pieces and use it a great deal in soups; but the most popular way is to simply boil it and serve with a white sauce and grated cheese. Italians do not break it, but gradually push the sticks into the boiling water until they make a coiled mass. They serve with cheese, using tomato, chicken or some other inviting sauce. They use a wooden fork in serving, coiling the macaroni or spaghetti round and round, but this is a knack which Americans have yet to acquire.”
Unfortunately, the Boston Globe, June 13, 1894, reported that the Boston Macaroni Company had shut down as it had been operating at a loss and on December 14, 1892, the stockholders voted to dissolve it. The Court though didn't rule on the petition for dissolution until June 12, 1894.
The Boston Post, July 22, 1894, discussed another macaroni factory on North St, “Raffael Veschi—Macaroni.” The first room was a shop selling lots of different types of macaroni and other Italian specialties. The back room was the factory. “The room was large and gloomy. All about were stacked, rack upon rack, long, shallow trays, full of freshly made macaroni. Over in one dark corner three men were energetically mixing in a deep trough the flour and water that forms the unshapen macaroni.” the article then went into plenty of detail about the production process. Finally, the article ended with, “You want to know the very best kind. You must ask for spaghetti or vermicelli, or toranti, or perciatellini, or stelline or seme di meloni, or tubbettini, or rosa marina, or tagliarellini or ricatoni.”
The Fall River Daily Evening News, March 12, 1900, noted that the Massachusetts Macaroni Company on North Street sustained a terrible fire. The fire led to the death of one fireman, who was struck by a fragment of falling wall and instantly killed. A second fireman was on the roof and struck by a water stream, which knocked him to the ground. Three others also sustained serious injuries. The building was ruined, incurring property damage of $75,000-$150,000.
The
Prince Macaroni Company, at 92 Prince Street, was founded in 1912 by 3 Sicilian immigrants:
Gaetano LaMarca (administrator),
Giuseppe Seminara (salesman) and
Michele Cantella (pasta maker). As is well known, this company eventually became a huge success all across the country.
A couple other macaroni factories were noted in 1916. The
Boston Globe, March 13, 1916, reported that there had been a in the basement of the
North End Macaroni Company, at 174 Endicott Street. The property damage was only about $1000, and no one was injured. The
Boston Globe, May 22, 1916, noted the bankruptcy of the
Gentile Macaroni Company, owned by
Antonio Gentile, located at the corner of Salem and North Bennett Streets.
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The Boston Globe, September 23, 1890, mentioned there were about 12,000 people residing in Little Italy while the Boston Post, May 5, 1891, noted there were 10,000-12,000 Italians in the entire city, most of them in the North End.
The Boston Globe, January 9, 1891, briefly mentioned there was an Italian restaurant at 200 North Street, although its name wasn't noted.
The Boston Globe, April 1, 1891, noted that Guinasso and Lagorio applied for a liquor license as wholesalers and victuallers of 124 North Street.
Another positive image of Little Italy. The
Boston Globe, July 23, 1893, published an article entitled, “
North End in Summer” The article initially stated, “
A stroll through the North end at this season of the year is one of the most enjoyable treats and instructive journeys obtainable in any city in the New England states.” It continued, “
On North st. from Blackstone to Commercial st. is one entire panorama of smiling faces, dark eyes and prettily dressed Italian damsels, who either turn a crank of a hand-organ or tell your fortune with the aid of some foreign-looking bird.” It also countered people who thought, “
Some of those who never have been there say that the North end is an open bar Sundays.” However, the article stated there there were only nine licensed innkeepers in the North End, and they only sold liquor with food.
The Boston Globe, October 7, 1893, noted that Alexander F. Bianco and Pietro Arrighi applied for liquor license as Wholesale Dealers at 257 North and 12 Lewis Street, as well as a liquor license for a restaurant at that same location. There would be a notice of a similar application for a liquor licenses in February 1896. It was then briefly mentioned in the Boston Post, April 1, 1896, that Bianco and Arrighi had a new hotel, although its address wasn't provided. And only three months later, the Boston Globe, July 18, 1896, reported that their partnership of Bianco and Arrighi had been dissolved by mutual consent.
The Boston Globe, July 2, 1897, mentioned that Alexander Bianco, a liquor dealer on Washington St., had gone insolvent.
Thirteen years later, the
Boston Globe, March 12, 1910, stated that Alexander F. Bianco, Harry M. Hartshorn, and Ponziano Maturo, as Hartshorn & Co., sought a liquor license, as inn holders and wholesale dealers, for 198-208 North St, 20-22 North Square, part of the
Hotel Sorrento. Then, the
Boston Globe, March 28, 1914, had Alexander F. Bianco and Ponziano Maturo, as Bianco & Co. sought a liquor license, as inn holders, for the Hotel Sorrento. They would seek a similar liquor license in 1915 and 1918.
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The
Boston Globe, January 7, 1894, detailed the experiences of a party of gentlemen who decided to expand their palates and check out three foreign restaurants, including an Italian restaurant in the North End. They stated, “
It was a queer place, with its jabber of patois, the musical clinking of many glasses, and its odd medley of guests, for here you may see all peoples, from a handsome, trig premier danseuse, who drives to the door in her carriage, to a respectable Irish mechanic who knows a good thing when he tastes it.” Their description continued, “
The floor is sanded. On one side of the room, which is big and rather dark, is a grocery department. The shelves are filled with bottles of olive oil and packages of foreign dressing for fish and game. Oddly shaped cheeses are strung along the shelves and hang suspended from the ceiling.” In addition, “
The restaurant proper is separated from this department by barrels and boxes of rice, macaroni and spaghetti. The spaghetti is made up with geometrical precision in the form of stars, crescents, anchors, crosses and triangles.”
It was then mentioned, “The eating tables here are long and narrow. They are roughly made of wood and covered with cheap oilcloth, but they are clean.” Next, they stated, “On the table before them was an immense bowl filled with spaghetti, out of which they ate in common. At each man’s elbow was a large glass of a sour Tuscan wine, which the Italians drink as freely as water. It was a delight to watch those men eat spaghetti. They lifted the slippery, writhing links of it to their lips with a carelessness and ease that to the American looking on seemed simply marvelous. Eating spaghetti is an art that few outside of the Italian race have mastered.”
The prices? “The one bill of fare which the place boasted was painted on a piece of board and nailed upon the wall where everyone might see it. In this restaurant nothing costs over 10 cents a plate, and with a glass of wine can get a very good dinner for 20 cents.” What an inexpensive meal. The gentlemen then enjoyed their meal.“As nearly as they could determine the novel dish was made up of cheese and macaroni and a sauce flavored with—well, no one but an Italian can ever tell what.” They stated, “Delicious! Was the unanimous verdict when they had finished.” They did have one complaint though. “The Italians may be able to make a man forget his sweetheart while eating one of their macaroni concoctions, but few of them know how to cook meats. These they serve hard and overdone.”
A Jewish spot in the North End! The article also mentioned, “The only Jewish restaurant in this city is on Hanover st. About 125 customers take meals there every day. There is a different bill of fare each day. The prices are high enough to keep out unwelcome customers, the price of dinner being 40 cents. The 40-cent dinner consists of soups, roast and boiled meats, including chicken, turkey or goose. Tea, coffee, milk, pie and pudding are served. The people who eat there are ‘everyday’ people.”
Overcrowding and house inspectors. The Boston Globe, February 6, 1894. reported that three house inspectors traveled to the North End, in the middle of the night, as “this is the only time when they can find out, with any degree of accuracy, how humanity lives in the North end, and how much overcrowding there is in that part of it occupied solely by Italians.” The article continued, “The fact is not disguised that the North end is woefully crowded with humanity, that some houses are sheltering almost double their number of lawful occupants, and that Italians in some localities are huddled together like so many sheep, in utter disregard not only of the laws of health but of purity and morality.”
During the winter, the house inspectors make about 8-10 visits to the North End. “
The houses which were found to be overcrowded are for the most part the poorest and most dilapidated structures in the North end, where rents are cheap and it costs little to live.” The Board of Health usually orders that the houses be vacated or the number of occupants must be reduced.
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Glorious wine! The Boston Globe, May 27, 1894, ran a lengthy article, titled “They Love Their Wine. Italians at North End Sip of the Red Nectar. Fifty Thousand Gallons Drunk by Them Last Year, ‘Tis Estimated.” The article began, “The Italians are among the best connoisseurs of wine. For home consumption they care little for beer or strong liquor, and even the most humble of this class have the purest, and, as a rule, the best of wines with their meals.” It continued, “For Italians to dine without a pint or a quart of wine to a person would be a novelty, and might lead to dyspepsia.” Dyspepsia is also known as indigestion. "Champagne is not to his taste, but a dark palatable table wine, or a sweet wine which flows like honey, is the wine for him.”
There was also some information on a wine importer. “The wine importer of Boston’s Italy is an everyday sort of a man, who toils from early morn till later at night. He has his big cellars stocked with the best, and in many cases he also conducts a general trade in goods imported from Italy.” It was also said, “…his manners are good and his opinion on wine excellent.”
The article continued, “A large amount of California wine is used at the North end, and none of it is adulterated. Imported wine is used most frequently by the well-to-do, but to meet the wants of the less fortunate wines are made in Boston from various kinds of grapes.” Who's making these wines in Boston? “Several of the importers are extensively engaged in the making of wine in this city, and one dealer leases a cellar where every year he makes thousands of gallons, buying the basket grapes by the tone, and, after squeezing, allowing them to ferment, which takes 10 to 15 days. Then the wine is drawn off in casks and stored in the wine vaults at his store.”
What grapes are used to make these wines? You might expect Vitis Vinifera grapes were used, like Chardonnay and Merlot,. but instead, Vitis Labrusca grapes were used instead. “Concord grapes are largely used in the making of this wine, but a half dozen varieties are also used, the finest quality of wines being derived by a mixture of two kinds of grapes, as, for example, isabellas and concords. This mixing, it is said, not only imparts a superb flavor, but gives the product an excellent color.” Why does the color matter? “Deep red is the most popular color for wine with the Italians,..” One of the largest wine importers in the North End declared that the Isabella grapes were the best to make domestic wine with Concord grapes being his second choice. Other good grapes for wine making were Diana, Catawba and Delaware.
What was the duty on imported alcohol? “The duty on all imported wines in the wood is 50 cents a gallon. Bottled wines are dutiable at the rate of $1.60 a case of 12 bottles which do not exceed one quart and hold not less than a pint, and in excess of this is dutiable at the rate of five cents a pint of fraction thereof.” So, the duty on a single bottle of wine was about 13 cents.
A fascinating statistic was also provided. “The total importations of wine into this country last year amounted in value to nearly $10,000,00, of which there was $5,381,473 worth of champagne from France, $407,371 worth of still wine from France, $73,466 worth of still wine from Italy and $2,121, worth of bottled wines from all the European countries. These figures show an increase in wine importations of some 30 percent in the past five years.” Over 50% of wine imports were Champagne! That is a staggering statistic, especially considered that most Champagne at this time was very sweet.
As for Boston itself, “Boston’s importation of wine last year was unusually large, there passing through the custom house tolls duties of $128,545 on wine in casks, $86,905 on still wines in bottles and $213,071 on champagne.” Plus, locally, “In the wine shops the imported is sold for 10 cents a glass, but the domestic wine, which is very popular as a beverage with the poorer folk, is sold for five cents. This home-made wine is equal to that sold over many hotel bars and at swell clubs for 15 cents a glass, and if one dislikes the wine of this grade, on account of its tart taste, the acidity is easily remedied by stirring into a glassful a teaspoonful of sugar.” When's the last time someone suggested you could add a teaspoonful of sugar to your glass of wine?
The wine made in Boston was very profitable. “The profit of the home-made production is surprising, for while it is sold for from 75 cents to $1 a gallon the actual cost will not exceed 25 cents a gallon. Thus on a glass retailed for five cents the profit is more than four cents. The profit on imported wine when sold by the glass is nearly in the same proportion.”
The writer of the article also visited a wine cellar belonging to one of the largest importers (unnamed) in the Italian colony. His cellar contained numerous kegs, barrels and hogsheads, and he stocked 25-30 different kinds of wine. Some of his wines included Grignolina, Chianti, Barota (sic), Mucsatello, Marsala, Faro de Messina, Tarragona, Gattinara, Nebiolo (sic), and Brochetti, as well as the spirit Gr appa. In addition, in the prior year, he purchased 15 tons of grapes, and produced over 5000 gallons of wine to sell to the community. He also claimed that the Italians in Boston drank over 50,000 gallons of wine last year.
The article also stated, “
Cases of drunkenness are not infrequent among the lowest of the Italians, but the middle class and the bon ton are never seen under the influence of intoxicants.”
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A brief mention of the North End was provided in the Boston Post, July 15, 1894, noting it was “… that faded old Boston belle, the North End.” The writer longed for the days when North End wasn't populated by various immigrant groups, the days when Paul Revere lived in that neighborhood during the 18th century.
Want to buy some crabs? The Boston Evening Transcript, September 15, 1894, noted that there was a new trade in the North End. “The trade is that of peddling crabs. The fish are taken from the wharves and cooked at home, after which they are retailed in the streets. The business has been going on for some time, and the price varies from one to three cents for each crab. Peddlers in this line appear to be patronized to almost as large an extent as fruit pedlers.” This huge popularity was probably inspired partially by their cheap price and also by their good taste. However, it came with a negative impact. “A view of North street shows that the people there in general do not care to go into the houses while they eat the crabs, but devour them on the sidewalk, which as a result has the appearance of a fish dump rather than that of a public highway in the city." Properly disposing of their crab shells wasn't apparently of concern.
Prejudice and discrimination against Italians and others immigrants still existed, and freely broadcast in local newspapers. For example, the Fall River Daily Herald, September 24, 1894, stated, “The last place the usual visitor and sightseer in Boston thinks of visiting is the north end. He has heard stories about fiery Italians, murderous Portuguese and thieving Jews, who live there and has in mind a picture of unsightly streets filled with rubbish and lined with crazy tenements.” The article continued, “Indeed the majority of the better class citizens of Boston would as soon think of visiting Greenland as of talking a walk through the north end.” This all runs counter to prior articles, such as the one praising summer walks in the North End, and those with police noting the low amount of criminal activity in the North End.
The article then noted, “One reason for the great number of groceries and meat markets is that Jews and Italians each have their own stores.” Why is this? “As to Italians, they will not patronize Jews, partly because of their hatred of the race, partly because the Jews will not patronize them.” More prejudice was printed. “The Italians are the most quarrelsome of foreigners, the Portuguese the cleanest and more immoral, and the Jews the dirtiest. It seems strange that the Jews look so dirty when their religion compels them to wash their bodies at least once a week.” Fortunately, there were far more positive articles in the newspapers than the racist garbage like this article.
Bones in your macaroni? The
Boston Globe, November 17, 1895, ran a disturbing article about macaroni in Naples, Italy. The police had evidence that bones were being delivered to macaroni factories. "
Investigation disclosed that the bones were ground finely and incorporated in the dough, because someone had discovered that bone meal imparts an extra 'delicious' flavor to the national dish." Rumors then spread that "
most of these flavoring bones came from old graveyards,..." Thus, macaroni consumption in Naples is "
down to zero."
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A customer fires a revolver, angry over his food. The Boston Post, December 23, 1895, reported an incident at a little Italian restaurant at 8 Moon Street, where the proprietor was Felico Frocoli, who was also the head waiter and cashier. One of his customers, Domenico Fogenito, was dissatisfied with his food and refused to pay. As he tried to leave the restaurant, there was an argument which led to Domenico drawing a revolver, and shooting twice, but missed each shot. He was later arrested by the police.
However, the Boston Globe, December 23, 1895, had a slightly different story. It stated that the Moon street restaurant was run by Josephus Taracion (not Felico Frocoli), and that Domenica Fargcinto and Rigoro Castano entered his restaurant to get something to eat. As soon as they sat, it was claimed that began to abuse the waiters, and Josephus asked them to leave. They left, continuing to use abusive language, and then Fargcinto shot through the restaurant window. Both Fargcinto and Castano ended up arrested by the police.
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The
Boston Herald, April 15, 1893, mentioned that Giuseppe Camia, Lorenzo Polcri, and Libero Peretti, as Camia, Polcri, & Peretti, applied for a liquor license as inn holders for 176 & 178 North St., and 133, 135 & 137 Richmond Streets, in the
Hotel Roma.
The Boston Herald, March 30, 1895, noted that Lorenzo Polcri and Maria Bonngli, as Lorenzo Polcri & Co., applied for liquor licenses as Victualler and Wholesale Dealers at 124 North St., which they would do again in March 1896 and March 1897.
The
Sunday Herald, December 13, 1896, had an ad for
Lorenzo Polcri, noting him as an importer, wholesaler and retailer of wines and ales, with a specialty of Chianti. He also had an Italian and French restaurant at 124 North Street.
The
Fitchburg Sentinel, August 28, 1897, posted an advertisement for Polcri's restaurant and liquor shop at 124 North Street. Polcri was an importer, wholesaler, and retailer of wines, liquors, cigars, and beers. At his restaurant, they served Italian and French cuisine, and macaroni was a specialty.
Sad news. The
Boston Globe, July 7, 1898, reported that
La Bourgogne, a French liner, which was headed to Italy, sunk off Sable Island, off the coast of Nova Scotians. 6 Italians from were on board and only 1 of them. Unfortunately, Lorenzo Polcri, age 35, died.
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As I mentioned above, in April 15, 1893, Giuseppe Camia, Lorenzo Polcri, and Libero Peretti, applied for a liquor license as inn holders for 176 & 178 North St. in the Hotel Roma. The Boston Herald, March 30, 1894, reported that Mary Camia and Frank Marotta applied for liquor license as Victuallers and Wholesale dealers at 176-178 North St. Was Mary related to Giuseppe Camia? And was this still the Hotel Roma? In March 1895, Mary and Frank would apply for a similar liquor license.
The Boston Daily Advertiser, March 27, 1897, noted that Frank Marotta and Angelina Marotta, had applied for a liquor license as Victuallers and Wholesale dealers of 176-178 North St. Mary Camia was no longer in the picture.
Attempted murder! The Boston Herald, June 3, 1897, reported that Salvator Conso, age 22, was arrested for trying to kill Frank Marotta, age 40, the thproprietor of a saloon and restaurant at the corner of North and Richmond Streets. Conso and two friends entered the saloon, drank a bottle of wine, and refused to pay for it. Marotta had words for them and they left but as Conso reached the sidewalk, he turned and fired two shots at Marotta’s head, both which missed. I couldn't find out what happened to Conso.
In 1902 Frank Marotta entered bankruptcy, and no longer owned the saloon and restaurant.
Spaghetti Chianti? The
Boston Globe, April 30, 1896, had an ad for the
Romolo-Remolo French & Italian restaurant, located at 846-848 Washington St. It noted the specialties included Spaghetti, Chianti, Broiled Live Lobster and Musty Ale. I believe the ad is missing a comma between Spaghetti and Chianti, as I doubt they meant "Spaghetti Chianti." The Table d’Hote dinner, with wine, only cost 50 cents.
There was another ad for Romolo-Remolo in the
Boston Post, September 5, 1896. The Table d’Hote dinner, with a pint of claret wine, was 60 cents, or 75 cents in a private room The menu choices were listed, with very few Italian options. The
Spaghetti a la Napolitaine was said to be a specialty.
The
Fall River Daily Herald, August 22, 1896, stated, "
What shall we eat and drink?" is not so much the question in a great city as "Where shall we eat and drink?" The man who is at all inclined to think eating is a fine art as well as a necessity will not be satisfied with any chance restaurant, hotel, or cafe, but will employ the principle of selection.....To such an individual Boston is a place of infinite variety. There are spots innumerable in which food may be had, and one is obliged to test them in order to clear the wheat from the chaff." The article then continued, “
Roughly speaking, eating places in Boston may be divided into three classes, the cafes of the swell hotels, the table d’hote proper, and the popular restaurant.”
“Perhaps the table d’hotes of Boston approach the nearest to that fitness of things in eating to which I have preferred. At any rate, they are the favorites par excellence with the people who consider dining one of the fine arts.” There's then mention of an Italian cafe, without providing its name or the name of the owner. “…another Italian café, most modest in price and beyond comparison in point of menu, where one may discuss politics, fine arts of religion from spaghetti to the best black coffee in town. This is the cheerful little table d’hote of the leader of the younger Italian set in Boston, a youngish man, meek and amiable in appearance, a typical Italian in coloring and manner, and a genial host in season and out of season. There are marvelous ‘broiled lives’ to be had there, to say nothing of spaghetti beyond comparison, while the Chianti makes one forget that it is Washington street instead of the smiling valleys of Italy spread below.”
The Boston Evening Transcript, November 3, 1897, briefly mentioned an Italian restaurant at 296 Commercial Street.
