Sake and Hawaii
As Prohibition struck Hawaii, and his Sake brewery has to close, T. Sumida kept busy with his other businesses. The
Honolulu Advertiser (HI), October 21, 1918, reported that, “
A new Japanese rice mill is now under construction at Kakaako by the T. Sumida Company of this city. The Japanese firm was engaged in the liquor business until last August when the federal prohibition law for the Territory became effective and forced the firm out of business. The company is now engaged in the rice business on a large scale and is establishing its own rice mill.” Unfortunately, the
Honolulu Advertiser (HI), March 18, 1919, noted that a fire, of undetermined origin, virtually destroyed the rice mill of the Japanese Rice Mill Co. Ltd in Kakaaka, a loss of about $75,000.
T. Sumida also briefly travelled to Japan, establishing a branch of his company in Osaka, named Sumida Bussan Kaisha, Ltd., and also acquired a branch office in Tokyo.
The
Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), June 30, 1921, published this notice about T. Sumida & Co, "
Importers and Dealers in General Merchandise." Although they could no longer sell liquor, they expanded their selection to include many different Japanese items.
As I mentioned earlier, the Honolulu Sake Brewery had to shut down when Hawaii went dry. However, by May 1921, they decided to establish an ice factory, under the name Hawaii Product Co., Ltd., in their former brewery. However, in 1925, because of some confusion over their name, they decided to change it to the Honolulu Ice Co., Ltd. They raised $80,000 in initial capitalization, with plans to produce about 20-30 tons of ice each day, starting in October or November. This would enable their company to survive Prohibition.
The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), October 20, 1926, reported that T. Sumida & Co., "one of the oldest Japanese firms in Hawaii," bought 7908 square feet of land for $40,000, with plans to construct a new building which would cost about $50,000. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), June 6, 1927, provided more details about T. Sumida & Co, also noting their new headquarters would open the next day. The President of the company was now Daizo Sumida, Tajiro's brother, while Tapir is the Vice President.
Some history of the company was also provided, first noting that Tajiro began operating the business on October 3, 1904 in Honolulu. In February 1913, he incorporated his business as T. Sumida & Co. Initially, the company dealt in the importing and wholesaling of liquor but when Prohibition began, the company altered to carrying a general line of groceries. The company now has 20 employees as its new headquarters as well as five outside salesmen. T. Sumida will use the ground floor of the new building, and there will also be a rice mill in an annex on that level.
Previously, 90% of their customers were Japanese but that had now changed to 50% Japanese and 50% American. The newspaper also stated, “The Sumida family has been interested and taken a definite part in nearly every local enterprises among the Japanese, having as its objective the establishment of an American-Japanese community which would be on a self-supporting basis.”
The
Honolulu Advertiser (HI), November 28, 1927, reported that Tajiro Sumida had been honored by the
Imperial Industrial Society of Japan. It was stated that Tajiro "
... rendered valuable service for the promotion of foreign trade." Besides starting T. Sumida & Co., he also organized the Pacific Bank, the Hawaiian Drug company and and the Japanese Rice Mill company. In Japan, he had organized the
Sumida Shokai in Osaka for export and import trade. This award was “
one of the highest honors among the business men of the Empire."
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Prohibition & Sake
Illegal Sake breweries, just like illegal beer breweries and spirit distilleries, operated in Hawaii during Prohibition and law enforcement was able to shut down some of them, though it's unknown how many might have gone unnoticed. For example, in early March 1919, authorities raided an illicit sake brewery on Hawaii near Kanehoe, noting it was the largest operation they had discovered so far. They found three 200 gallon vats, two which were full, as well as 36 quarts of bottled sake. The chief brewer, Hatano, was arrested and told the police that he used to work for a local sake brewery. Interestingly, the health inspector noted the immaculate cleanliness of the facility and he couldn't find any health violations.
This was a significant and technologically superior operation, and not some cheap bath tub gin operation. It was even alleged that an unidentified person had invested $20,000 in the illegal brewery. The police estimated that $15 of rice, a special grade used for brewing that cost $5-$6 more than table rice, could be turned into $80 of sake. About 10 gallons of sake could be made from one sack of rice, and the sake sold for $2 a quart, or $80 for ten gallons. Despite Prohibition, the Japanese in Hawaii still wanted sake and some people were willing to make it, despite its illegality.
Soon after this bust, another illegal sake brewery was busted at the intersection of Kuakini and Liliha streets. They found a bath tub with fermenting Sake as well as two, large wooden vats, each containing at least 500 gallons of sake. During the raid, one of the officers slipped on the floor and fell into a sake-filled rub. The sake was destroyed by the authorities and two Japanese men were arrested, while the police sought a third man.
In April 1920, another illegal sake brewery was raided in Hawaii, located on Puumaile road. It was hidden underground, accessed by a stairway concealed under floorboards in an outhouse. There were two rooms, about 20 feet square, and one of the policemen described what he found as “the most complete paraphernalia for sake brewing I have ever seen.” Three men were arrested, including Ikeda, a prosperous hog raiser, Masui and Tomimori, while the police sought a fourth person.
In August 1920, K. Miura, who was recently arrested for operating an illegal sake brewery, pled guilty and was sentenced to 5 months imprisonment, a fine of $100, plus court costs of $17.05. This was his second offense. Guess he didn't learn anything after the first arrest.
Later, in July 1921, a large illegal brewery was discovered at the bottom of a gulch in the Puaka stream manka of the Takashi camp. The Prohibition agents found 250 gallons of sake, a 100-gallon press, and 200 gallons of mash, arresting Y. Uemura who was found working at the brewery. Around December 1921, an illegal brewery was found in the Hamakua district, which had an output about 100 gallons every two weeks. Hinnakichi Mitani was arrested and fined $400. And in May 1926, a sake brewery was raided at Camp 5 Piihonua.
Finally, in December 1928, the authorities raided a substantial illegal brewery, located at 137 Beretania Street, which was allegedly supplying a number of local tea houses and restaurants. The authorities found a 100 gallon sake press, a 50 gallon sake press, 1000 gallons of sake mash, and 2000 empty quart bottles. It was thought that this brewery could produce 1000 gallons on a weekly basis, and it was considered one of the best equipped breweries the police had ever seen. A woman, See Takahashi, was arrested though her fate wasn't mentioned.
Besides these raids and arrests in the territory of Hawaii, other raids were occurring on the mainland. The Bakersfield Morning Echo (CA), January 27, 1920, reported on a raid in Ogden, Utah, which found the largest still ever found in Utah by internal revenue officers. It was operated by G. Abe, a Japanese farmer, who was arrested and the authorities also seized 75 barrels of liquor. The seizure included 22 barrels of hard cider, four 52-gallon barrels of Sake mash, and 35 gallons of Sake. It was believed that some of the cider might have been eight years old.
Also in Utah, the Deseret News (UT), May 31, 1920, stated the police raided the establishment of T. Yakata and K. Kadnataca, seizing ten gallons of Sake, Japanese whisky, and ten 50-gallon barrels of rice mash.
In March 1921, there was a raid, including two federal Prohibition agents, near Everett, Washington, on an illegal Sake making operation. Three Sake making devices were found, a quantity of Sake was seized and seven Japanese men were arrested. The Seattle Union Record (WA), August 3, 1921, provided statistics on illegal alcohol discovered by the authorities, which included 484 gallons of Sake. In March 1922, in Oregon, a Japanese man was arrested for violating the prohibition laws. The authorities seized 200 gallons of "saki mash" and 950 gallons of "rice-wine."
The Los Angeles Times (CA), March 30, 1922, detailed the results of a raid in Wilshire, leading to the arrest of four people and the seizure of 2000 gallons of Sake. The police had previously raided another home, where they confiscated several hundred gallons of Sake. They also encountered a Japanese woman named K. Ono, who was said to be the "queen of the bootleggers." Ono escaped from that raid, but the police followed her to another residence. There, the police found a trap door concealed under a heavy rug under a bed. The trap door led to a basement where the Sake brewing took place. They arrested Ono and three Japanese men.
A "gigantic still" found in Westmoreland, California! The Los Angeles Times (CA), October 27, 1922, noted that authorities had found a "still" capable of making 25 gallons of Sake a day. Two Japanese men, C. Oguchi and T. Aoki, were arrested and claimed they had been making Sake for quite some time, working with other Japanese in Los Angeles to sell their Sake. The still was "of the latest type, costing not less than $1000,..." It had been located in the center of a 640 acre farm and they transported the Sake into Los Angeles in 5-gallon artesian water jars.
There would be plenty of other arrests and seizures of illegal sake operations throughout the 1920s. The Hanford Journal (CA), January 17, 1930, reported on a raid on "... the largest sake plant found operating in the Sacramento valley since Prohibition,..." The police raided a ranch located 7.5 miles from Stockton. They arrested five Japanese men, and seized 2,520 gallons of Sake in bottles as well as 18 fifty-gallon barrels of Sake. The New World Daily News (CA), June 28, 1933, noted a raid on a home in Los Angeles, leading to the seizure of 1500 gallons of Sake and the arrests of three Japanese.
The New World Daily News (CA), June 28, 1933, noted that a Japanese bootlegger used to make Sake in the basement of the headquarters of the Salvation Army, but he apparently was never caught. The New World Daily News (CA), August 19, 1933, mentioned that a Japanese man pled guilty to possession of 500 gallons of Sake, and he was fined $200.
New Sake Breweries
When Prohibition ended on December 5, 1933, it didn't take long for Sake to start being exported once again to California. The New World Daily News (CA), December 21, 1933, reported that the first Sake shipment arrived in California the day before. The Sake was received by the Kageyama Company of San Francisco, and the brand name of the Sake was Nippon Ikioi. Many orders were received, by people wanting Sake to celebrate New Year's.
And it didn't take long for Sake breweries to start opening up in California as well. There was the American Sake Brewery Co. (from 1934-1935), located at 2444/46 E. 8th in Los Angeles, which brewed 5146 gallons of Sake in the fiscal year ending June 1934. It was succeeded by the Asahi Wine Mfg. Co. (1935), which produced 7032.5 gallons in the fiscal year ending June 1935.
In San Jose, there was the
San Jose Sake Brewery (from 1934-1935), which incorporated in July 1934, and was located at 291 Jackson Street, at the corner of North 7th Street, in Santa Clara county. Interestingly, the plant was established six months prior to the incorporation filing and started bottling at the time of the incorporation date. There were three incorporaters, including
Sakaye Yamada of Sacramento,
Kihei Ikeda of Sacramento, and
Kenju Ikuta of Chico, and it had a capital of $150,000.
The brewery was authorized to produce Sake, ale, porter, beer and other malt liquors. The San Jose Evening News (CA), July 24, 1934, claimed, “Santa Clara Valley’s famous wines may yet surrender first place it is excellent sake.” In the fiscal year ending June 1935, the brewery produced 31,215.5 gallons while in the fiscal year ending June 1936, the brewery produced 17,619 gallons.
San Francisco saw its share of Sake breweries too, including the Aiji Matsuo Brewery (from 1934-1937) which was succeeded by Matsuo Sake Brewing Co. (from 1937-1941), located at 498 Bryant Street. The owner of this brewery was Aiji Matsuo. In the fiscal year ending June 1935, this brewery produced 5,308 gallons while in the next year it saw a significant increase to 22,117 gallons. They produced the Shira Ume brand ("white plum") and there's some indication, as of 1934, that they experimented with Sparkling Sake, though little is known of their efforts and I haven't found any evidence that they ever produced a commercial Sparkling Sake.
There was also the
Katsuzo Shioji (1934), which was succeeded by the
San Francisco Sake Brewery, located at 342 Fifth Street (from 1934-1936). In the fiscal year ending June 1935, it produced 16,889 gallons and then in the next year, this decreased to 13,292.5 gallons. The above advertisement is from the
Nichibei Shinbun, May 26, 1934.
In addition, there was an unnamed Sake brewery which opened in Oakland, California on 1934. The
Oakland Tribune (CA), May 22, 1934, mentioned, “
With an initial employment of ten persons, the Saki brewery has opened a plant at 5101 East Twelfth Street, Oakland, for the manufacture of rice beer, commercially known as ‘Saki.’ Copartners are Y. Yamada, K. Ikuta, and K. Ikeda.” The
Oakland Post Enquirer (CA), May 22, 1934, printed a similar article, but with a couple slight changes. “
With an initial employment of 10 persons, the Saki brewery has been established at 5101 East Twelfth street, for the manufacture of rice wine, commercially known as ‘saki.’ Copartners are Y. Yamada, K. Ikuta, and K. Ikada.” I haven't yet found additional information about this brewery but I continue to hunt for info.
Also in San Francisco, was the
California Sake Brewery Co. (from 1934-1936), which in the fiscal year ending June 1935, the brewery produced 11,076 gallons and in the next year, produced 11,399.5 gallons.
Koshin Miyamoto was the director of this company, and
Tsunegoro Mohara was connected as well. The
Salt Lake Telegram (UT), May 11, 1935, stated that the Utah liquor commission had purchased 24 cases of their Sake for their state liquor stores.
There was also the Nippon Sake Brewery Co., Inc. (from 1935-1940). The New World Sun (CA), August 24, 1935, noted that Kihei Ikeda, a well known Sacramento businessman, was behind the creation of the Nippon Sake Brewery Co., Inc., a $100,000 brewery, "formed to eliminate cut throat competition." The company was formed from four other California firms, including the San Francisco Brewing Company, the Melrose Brewery, the San Jose Brewing Company, and the California Brewing Company. The other corporate officers included Tsunegoro Mihara and Tetsuo Noda, both local businessmen, and their office was located at 432 Clay street.
In the fiscal year ending June 1935, the brewery produced 15,410.5 gallons and in the fiscal year ending in June 1936, it produced 12,303.5 gallons. In November 1942, the Nippon Sake Brewery, which had been abandoned, was burned by a fire.
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Even when Prohibition ended, illegal sake breweries still existed. For example, the New World Sun (CA). December 22, 1935, reported that a Japanese barber in Los Angeles had illegally operated a Sake "still" in the back of his shop. The article also mentioned that "all aliens caught selling bootleg whiskey," which included Sake, might be deported.
In August 1941, federal agents arrested Charles Him Toy, 65 years old, who was brewing sake illegally in Chicago. The agents recovered 12 barrels of rice mash, 5 gallons of sake, and 30 sacks of rice. Apparently, the sake had been sent to various Chinese and Japanese individuals in a number of Midwest cities. Other agents, in Kansas City, Missouri, arrested Tuck Long, who received a delivery from Toy of illegal sake, hidden in a 5 gallon can under the label "cigarets."
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Once Prohibition ended in Hawaii, the newly renamed Honolulu Sake Brewery & Ice Co., Ltd., headed by Daizo Sumida, president and managing director of T. Sumida & Co., was quick to act to return to producing sake. In January 1934, they filed for a permit to construct a $50,000 sake brewery, equipped with $45,000 of machinery, at 2153 Booth Road. However, the bureaucracy didn't act quickly, and it wasn't until February 1934 that they finally received their license to produce Sake once again, though they were still the first new sake brewery established in Hawaii after Prohibition.
It wouldn't be until October 1934 that their brewery completed construction, with a cost of the building and equipment about $140,000, and as soon as the bottling plant was finished, they would be able to employ about 125 people. According to the Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), October 26, 1934, “Most of the rooms of the plant have to be kept at a constantly cool temperature to insure perfect production, this being done through a modern refrigeration system.” The new brewery had a capacity of 45,000 gallons each month, and it was hoped their first sake for sale would be available on December 1, though it wasn't actually released until Saturday, December 8.
They brought five sake making experts from Japan to work at the new brewery, including Hide Fujita, gishi or brewing superintendent and chemist, Katsuichiro Takakishi, joshu or Mr. Fujita’s assistant, Kunjio Nishigaki, toji or brew master, Minoru Tanigo, shubo man or fermentation expert, and Kiichiro Tajiri, koji or yeast master.
Their first brand of sake was Takara Masamune, which literally means “a superior product,” and there were plans to add additional brands in the future. Their initial brand would be sold in gallon, half-gallon and quart bottles. The Takara Masamune would be produced from a mixture of two varieties of imported rice (though they were experimenting with local rice), and aged in cryptomeria wooden vats. The brewery had about 50 of those vats, which cost them $30,000. Their goal was to produce sake of equal quality to imported sake, but at half the price.
As an aside, the
Honolulu Star-Bulletin, November 14, 1934, reported that, “
Sake breweries in Hawaii will operate under the mainland code for the wine industry with wages and hour provisions administered by Allen W. Gullion, deputy NRA administrator.” This code provided for a minimum wage of $14-$16 a week for office employees and minimum hourly rates for others of 35-40 cents an hour, depending on the type of work. It also provided for a 40 hour, 6 day work week. It appears the government could foresee that a number of Sake breweries would soon open in Hawaii.
Other new Sake breweries arose at this time in Hawaii too. The Maui Sake Brewery Co., Ltd., located in Kula, was organized on June 12, 1934 and began brewing in November 1935, lasting until 1941. They obtained a 20-year lease, as of June 15, 1934, for their property on Kula, Maui. The company officers included M. Kobayashi as President and S. Kofama as Vice President. The brewery was under the capable management of R.H. Okita.
The brewery produced two brands,
Hinode Masamune, a dark Sake, and
Aloha Masamune, a lighter brand, which were sold in gallons, half gallons, 60 ounce and 22 ounce bottles. By 1941, they were producing about 60,000 to 70,000 gallons a year, with 60% sold on Maui and the rest sold on the other Hawaiian islands. The Sake was made from California rice, and nearly all of their supplies were also sourced from the U.S.
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In January 1935, the American-Japanese Sake Brewery, also known as Nichibei Shuzo Kabushiki Kaisha, led by president Isojiro Kitagawa and vice president I. Fujimoto (of the Fujimoto Trading Co.), filed building permits to construct a $16,000 brewery on Kamehameha Avenue in Hilo. The building, made of reinforced concrete, would include a laboratory, fermentation room, steaming room, sweat room, a general work room, sterilization room, bottling room, and an office. Two sake experts from Japan, Mr. Shinoda and Mr. Hara, came to Hawaii to produce sake for the new brewery. They were granted a provisional brewing license in May, and hoped to have their first batch of Sake in July.
They held an island-wide contest to name their sake and their choice was
Koku-sui, which different sources allege means “
the best in the country" or “
national characteristics or virtues.” The winner of the contest was
Ichisaburo Nakamura, a teacher at the Waiakea-kai Japanese school. Their first Kokusui sake was sold on March 14, 1936, At this time,
Kyushi Hayashi was the manager of the brewery. In addition, their brewmaster was
Shigeru Asada, who had previously been the brewmaster at the
Sakura Masamune Sake Brewery in Japan, and had plans to permanently work in Hawaii. The brewery also employed
M. Shinoda, a chemist, and
Muneshi Hara, a koi-master. The brewery was supposed to be able to brew 10,000 gallons of Sake each day.
In December 1938, the brewery had been successful enough to give a 5% dividend to their stockholders. Unfortunately, a seismic wave destroyed their new brewery in April 1946. They were able though to reacquire their old brewery, which they had leased to the government, and converted part of the facility so they could produce shoyu and miso. In January 1948, they got a new license to manufacture sake and starting selling in June 1948. After World War II, they might have had a name change, to the
Kokusui Co., Ltd. Brewery (from 1948-1957).
The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), January 9, 1935, mentioned that there were two Sake breweries on Oahu and one Sake brewery on Maui.
The Kanda Shokai, Inc (1934-1935), owned by Junichi Fujii, a business executive in Hawaii and Japan, was located at Halekauwila and Cooke streets. It was succeeded by the Fuji Sake Brewing Co. which lasted from 1935-1942 and then restarted after the war from 1948 to 1965. In May 1937, the Fuji brewery sought a permit to build a $37,000 addition to their brewery.
In May 1935, plans were created to open the
Hilo Sake Brewers Co., Ltd., headed by president
Sadanosuke Hata, and in July, they were posting a help wanted ad, seeking Sake brewers.
Sadanosuke was the proprietor of
S. Hata Shoten, which was established in 1893, and which engaged in wholesale and retail sales of American and Japanese goods. Headquartered in Hilo, the company had branches and offices in Honolulu, Osaka, Hiroshima, Kyoto and Yokohama. During the first years of
S. Hata Shoten, business was poor so Sadanosuke also worked as a hack driver, the first such in Hilo.
The brewery was supposed to start production around January 1936, but that didn't occur. In February 1936, Hata returned from Japan with three Sake brewmasters from the Kamozuru Shuzo Kabushiki Kaisha. They began construction on a $75,000 sake brewery on Kaumana Road, but faced some zoning issues which delayed matters for a few months.
In December 1936, they released their first Sake,
Togo Masamune, which was to be served chilled, like a beer.
In 1938, they started an expansion to their brewery, which would enable them to produce 10,000 gallons of Sake a month. The
Hawaii Tribune-Herald (HI), September 17, 1939, reported that the Hilo Sake brewery had brought
Kiso Yamamoto and
Raiji Ishizaki from Japan to be “
sake brewery specialists.” In February 1940, the brewery released a second brand,
Hilo Masamune, that was “
brewed and manufactured according to the highest standards and methods as used in Japan.”
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The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), October 11, 1935, reported that in the previous year, Hawaii had imported about $2 Million in goods from Japan, including 19,268 bags of rice and 10,405 cases of Sake. In that past year, there had been a significant increase in imports of Japanese rice, which was thought to be because the Hawaiian Sake breweries were using almost exclusively Japanese rice. Since the repeal of Prohibition, imports of rice and Sake had sustained the largest growth.
As an aside, a number of these Sake breweries used the term "Masamune" in the names of their Sake brands. In Japan, this term became equated with "high quality" Sake, so numerous breweries added it to their brand names.
Returning to the Honolulu Sake Brewery & Ice Co., Ltd., they celebrated their first re-opening anniversary in December 1935. During that past year, they had released their second brand, Takara Musume, known as the “Hula-Girl,” and in honor of their anniversary, released a third brand, Daikoku Masa-mune.
Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), March 30, 1936 had an advertisement for their "Hula Girl" Sake.
The
Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), April 1, 1937, had another advertisement for "Hula Girl" Sake, which claimed it was a "
Health, Vitality-Building Liquor Brewed from Choicest Rice." It also said, "
Try it for Taste, Smoothness, Bouquet."
By September 1937, their brewery had the capacity to produce 55,000 gallons monthly though their actual output was just over 40,000 gallons. As the total consumption of sake in the Territory of Hawaii was only about 60-65,000 gallons, Honolulu Sake was supplying 7 out of every 10 consumers. They were also supplying a majority of the Sake consumed in the Pacific coast states.
In this ad from June 1939, note that it states you can drink their Sake cold! At this time, the vast majority of Sake was served hot, and cold Sake would have seemed very odd to most consumers in the U.S. Honolulu Sake might have been a pioneer in this respect, in the promotion of cold Sake.
They even obtained a trademark for their brand, Takara Masamune.
Honolulu Sake was also the pioneer in another regard, and possibly the inventor, of Sparkling Sake! At some point before 1938, Katsuichiro Takakishi, who was now the chief brewmaster, traveled to Japan where he first thought about creating a sparkling Sake. With some assistance from Dr. Yamada of the Japanese government’s laboratory, Takakishi was successful in creating this product. He filed a patent in Japan and on July 25, 1938, also filed a patent in the U.S.
The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), November 7, 1939, noted that the Honolulu Sake brewery would release a new product on November 15, Polo. "Polo is a Hawaiian carbonated sake, patent registered with the Japanese government and a United States patent pending.” The article also stated, “Polo is the only carbonated sake in the world. It may be called champagne sake or rice champagne.” The Polo was said to have “the taste of champagne, though it does not cost as much.” It was also advertised as the first of its kind anywhere, and the evidence seems to support this contention.
The first Sake brewery? The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), April 30, 1940, quoted Daizo Sumida, the president of the Honolulu Sake Brewery, who claimed the, “Honolulu Sake Brewery was the first company of its kind outside of Japan.” This is incorrect, as there were 3-4 Sake breweries in California before the Honolulu Sake Brewery was established in 1908. Daizo should have known of at least one of those California Sake Breweries, the Japan Brewing Co., as his brother, Tajiro, had clearly been cognizant of its existence. However, Daizo's words would be accepted by many, and the myth would continue to be repeated and published as a "fact" for many years to come.
The Honolulu Advertiser (HI), May 1, 1940, would repeat Daizo's claim in an article about their new Sparkling Sake. “To Honolulu goes the credit for discovery and perfection of carbonated sake, a new beverage of light alcoholic content that is being offered on the market for the first time today.” It continued, “K. Takakishi is the father of the new sake, called ‘Polo.’ It was he who first got the idea of carbonating the pale brew. With the aid of Dr. Yamade of the Japanese government laboratory he succeeded in perfecting the process. So far this is the only place where the sparkling sake is made. A patent has been applied for in the United States and one has been granted in Japan.”
The
Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), May 18, 1940, published this photo of the Honolulu Sake Brewery directors and brewmaster.
An advertisement for Polo from the
Kawai Shinto, May 28, 1940. The label states "
Hawaiian Carbonated Sake."
Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), May 18, 1940: Advertisement.
Takakishi's U.S. patent, No. 2,243,513, was granted on May 27, 1941, and it consists of a single page, titled Method of Making a Sparkling Sake-Like Beverage. It is interesting that it was filed under his name, and not under the auspices of the Honolulu Sake brewery. The patent states, “My invention relates to the art of making champagne and more particularly to a method of making champagne from sake or the like. One of the principal objects of my invention is to provide a method of treating sake or the like in a manner to produce champagne therefrom. Another object of my invention is to vary the usual method of making sake in a manner whereby the resultant sake can be further treated to produce a champagne which has combined therein the aroma, taste, activation, and appearance of grape champagne.”
Production of sparkling Sake was somewhat different from regular Sake, even before the carbonation step. First, the rice grains were polished to a greater degree, about 40% to 50%, which nowadays is reminiscent of a Ginjo or Daiginjo Sake. Second, the Sake was aged in porcelain lined tanks, instead of the ordinary wooden tanks. Lastly, once the refined Sake was ready, “I add an adequate amount of sugar, white wine and other extracts and finally carbonic acid gas, which results in champagne.” No specific amounts for these additions were provided. Takakishi then finished with, “From the foregoing it will be apparent that I have provided a simple and economical method of making champagne from sake or the like and that the champagne thus produced comprehends all the attractive qualities of grape champagne, for instance aroma, taste, appearance and activation.”
Who knew that sparkling sake was that old? It has always seemed like such a relatively new product.
Shortly after the patent was granted, in August 1941, the brewery created a new sparkling Sake, called
Polo Champion, which one of their ad stated, in the
Honolulu Star-Bulletin, August 29, 1941, “
Polo Champion is not beer, champagne nor sake, but it is something like a combination of the three. Serve it chilled at dinner, parties, or at anytime a cool, refreshing drink is needed.” It was supposed to possess a “
New, improved quality—New, different flavor.” A price was given for this new product too, only 15 cents for an 11 ounce bottle!
Unfortunately, the innovative Sake brewmaster, Katsuichiro Takakishi, left the brewery to go to Japan in November 1941. His legacy though would continue, including the creation of a new Sparkling Sake twenty years later.
The
Hawaii Tribune-Herald (HI), May 27, 1948, published an advertisement for the Takara Masamune.
World War II & Sake
In Hawaii, when World War II began, the existing breweries were producing annually almost 2 million gallons of Sake. However, on December 21, 1941, the Federal government prohibited the production of Sake in Hawaii. As with Prohibition, the Honolulu Sake Brewery found a way to survive, this time by producing shoyu, soy sauce, about 3500 gallons monthly, under the label Marumasa Soy and later Diamond Shoyu. They used their Sake production equipment to make shoyu, though they used porcelain vats rather than wooden casks. In addition, the Honolulu Sake Brewery leased their cold storage plant to the Army for at least a year.
During World War II, the U.S. forced thousands of Japanese into internment camps, wrongfully believing they posed a threat to the country. The incarcerated Japanese were not permitted to bring Sake into the camps, so some smuggled Sake inside while others created illegal stills to produce it. Left over rice was used to home brew Sake, and it had to be carefully hidden from the guards.
At the Heart Mountain Internment Camp in Wyoming, during the Spring of 1945, camp guards arrested internee Yasutaro Oku. They discussed that he possessed five barrels of mash, each equal to about 15-20 gallons, five gallons of Sake, and brewing equipment . He subsequently plead guilty to the offense of brewing Sake and was sentenced to 15 days in jail, though a judicial commission of fellow internees suspended that sentence. If that was the worst punishment internees faced for illegally brewing Sake, then it's easy to see why a number of them decided to risk it.
Once the war ended, it still took a couple years before Sake production was permitted in Hawaii. The Honolulu Advertiser (HI), June 11, 1947, reported that the Hawaii Defense Act would expire on June 30, and “including resumption of the right, by the way, of a sake brewery to use rice in the manufacture of that beverage.” In readiness for the expiration of this Act, the Honolulu Sake Brewery had applied for a license to manufacture Sake in March 1937.
Post World War II & Sake
The
Hawaii Tribune-Herald (HI), March 19, 1947, printed an ad for the Honolulu Sake Brewery for their
Diamond Soy, which they had started producing in 1943.
The Honolulu Sake Brewery didn't begin selling sake again until around May 1948. First, they remodeled the brewery, at a cost of around $300,000, which included the installation of stainless steel tanks, to replace their old wooden barrels, with the objective of producing a better grade of sake. The new brewery, employing 85 people, was capable of production about 30,000 gallons monthly, though they continued to make Diamond Shoyu too, about 12,000 gallons a month. Initially, using rice from California, they produced only 20,000 gallons of sake, under the brand name Takara Masamune.
The
Hawaii Tribune-Herald (HI), May 27, 1948, printed an ad for Honolulu Sake Brewery's
Takara Masamune brand, and it was said, “
warm it before serving or serve it cold. Let your own taste be the judge…”
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After World War II, Sake breweries also were established on the Mainland.
In Los Angeles, there was the Central Sake Brewing Co. (from 1948-1950), located at 1144 S. Central Ave., the California Sake Brewery (from 1947-1949), located at 10706-08 Burbank Boulvevard, and the Los Angeles Sake Brewing Co. (from 1947-1949), located at 715 E. Fifth St.
There were even two sakes breweries in Denver during the 1940s. The first was B & Y Sales Co., established in 1945 and located on 2845 Walnut Street, by J.V. Bradley, an Irish accountant, and Dan K. Yamagami, a pre-war San Jose fruit merchant. Yamagami was able to secure their Japanese brew master, Ria Kubo, from a relocation camp. Their Assistant Brewer would be T. Hesatsune. Their $100,000 brewery produced about 3200 gallons of sake monthly, nearly all which was exported though they started to sell some domestically. Their company existed under this name until 1947 when it became the Colorado Sake Brewery (from 1947-1949). B & Y Sales Co. sold a brand named Hakumine, which was described as "refined Colorado sake" and had an alcohol content of 14%. They also produced two other brands, Geppo and Kotobuki.
The second Denver sake brewery, owned by 32-year-old Tad Akaba, started operations in the beginning of 1946. Akaba, born in California, eventually left the U.S. Army and met an elderly Japanese man who knew how to brew sake, though he wasn't a trained brew master. With a starting fund of $50,000, Akaba established a sake brewery which produced 6,500 gallons monthly though he recently added air conditioning and refrigeration which he expected to boost his capacity to 8,000 gallons. About 3,500 gallons of his sake were sold in Honolulu, and most of the rest was exported overseas. Unfortunately, I haven't yet been able to learn the name of this brewery or how long it lasted.
Back to Hawaii! The
Honolulu Advertiser (HI), November 14, 1948, published an advertisement from the Honolulu Sake Brewery which detailed a contest to name two Sake cocktails, one sweet and one dry. The prize was $50 for each chosen winner.
With over 600 entries, the two winners were Keomailani Reid, who came up with the name Rainbow Maiden for their sweet cocktail, and Mary Jane M. Turner, who came up with the name Aloha Delight for the dry cocktail.
Above, you can see the recipe for the Rainbow Maiden, which resembles a Japanese version of a Manhattan cocktail. I was unable to find a recipe for the Aloha Delight though I suspect it was also a rather simple cocktail, and maybe based on a classic cocktail.
The
Honolulu Advertiser (HI), May 31, 1950, had this photo of the Honolulu Sake brewery.
The
Honolulu Advertiser (HI), October 23, 1950, noted that the Honolulu Sake Brewery had been established 42 years ago, on September 4, 1908, and was the “
oldest sake brewery outside of Japan.”; The article also provide a photo of Daizo Sumida, President of the brewery.
The
Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), November 22, 1950, reported that
Tajiro Sumida, who was one of the founders of the Honolulu Sake Brewery, and the brother of Daizo Sumida, died at aged 68. He passed away in Hiroshima, noting that he left Hawaii some years ago to work in the export business. He also started coffee plantations in Saipan and Formosa. He was survived by 3 sons (2 living in Honolulu) and 3 daughters.
The
Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), May 31, 1951, and an advertisement for the Honolulu Sake Brewery, touting “
Enjoy a New High Ball”, a “
Delicious Takara-High.” All you have to do is pour some Takara Masamune Sake into a glass over ice.
A Brewery Strike! The
Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), August 16, 1951, reported that 19 of the 35 employees of the Honolulu Sake Brewery went on strike “
in the wake of an election Tuesday to determine affiliation with an AFL union.” The Brewery Workers Union, Local 502, an affiliate of the Joint Council of Teamsters, lost the election in a vote of 19-16.
Arthur A. Rutledge, the union agent, stated, “
a protest against employer actions before the election which materially affected its outcome is being filed with the National Labor Relations board.”
More details were provided by the
Honolulu Advertiser (HI), August 17, 1951, which noted that 16 employees were on strike, demanding a wage increase and the right to form a union. The Brewery felt the election was fair, so there was no need for a strike. In subsequent sources, it was detailed that Rutledge claims the Brewery intimidated employees before the election. In addition, Rutledge stated casual employees were permitted to vote, but that was not appropriate. However, the Brewery claimed that the union had signed a stipulation agreeing to let those casual employees to vote.
The strike continued until September 12, 1952, when 15 of the 16 striking workers asked for their jobs back. All 16 returned to their jobs the next day, and the Brewery noted there had been no negotiations on wage increases. However, the charges brought before the Labor Board were still pending.
It wouldn't be until November 1951, that the Brewery and the Union agreed to set aside the results of the prior election and the Labor Board charge was withdrawn. The Union could hold another election, but usually only one election was held each year. Rutledge noted that another wasn't being contemplated in the near future. Another vote wouldn't occur until May 1957, and once again the Union lost, in a vote of 16 to 10.
In 1954, hearings were held concerning a major revision to the Internal Revenue Code, and the original proposal would have changed the class and tax status of Sake, from treating it as Beer (a "fermented malt liquor") to a Wine. That would have increased the tax on Sake from 29 cents to 67 cents a gallon, a more than double increase. Sake in Hawaii was generally selling for $5-$5.50 a gallon. Attorney Wilfred C. Tsukiyama, representing the three existing Sake breweries (Honolulu Sake Brewery & Ice Co., Fuji Sake Brewing, and Nichibei Shuzo Kabushiki Kaisha) in Hawaii submitted letters opposition this change, noting that they were currently the only Sake producers in the U.S.
The letters also noted that Sake production was currently on the decline, as Sake consumption had not resumed to the levels it reached prior to World War 2. “It is still produced in Hawaii only because some older Japanese still use it. He said there are three companies in Hawaii, none on the mainland, and the output is falling.” One letter also stated how Japanese view Sake, "To him sake is not a luxury but a portion of his food." A significant tax increase would have to lead to increased prices, which meant the Sake breweries wouldn't be able to compete with cheaper alcoholic beverages, and could be forced to shut down.
Fortunately, their concerns must have proven persuasive as the Internal Revenue Code changes did not alter the classification of Sake, so it continued to be governed by the tax on beer.
Interesting statistics were provided for the three Sake breweries, comparing production before and after World War 2. In 1940, the Honolulu Sake Brewery & Ice Co., produced 228,589 gallons of Sake, as well as paid $40,805.01 in federal taxes. However, in 1953, they only produced 58,614 gallons of Sake, as well as paid $16,391.30 in federal taxes. Such a drastic reduction in production, down to about 25% of what it had been in 1940. In addition, the prewar consumer price for their Sake was $1.80 per gallon but their current price is $5.50.
In 1940, the Nichibei Shuzo Kabushiki Kaisha produced 271,339 gallons of Sake, as well as paid $40,255.77 in federal taxes. However, in 1953, they only produced 16,546 gallons of Sake, as well as paid $5,615.13 in federal taxes. Another drastic reduction in production, down to about 6% of what it had been in 1940. In addition, the prewar consumer price for their Sake was $1.95 per gallon but their current price is $4.90.
As for the Fuji Sake Brewing, in 1939, they sold 237,159 gallons and in 1953, they sold 88,531 gallons. Another drastic reduction in production, down to about one-third of what it had been in 1939.
The Honolulu Advertiser (HI), October 17, 1954, reported on some changes at the Honolulu Sake Brewery. They had a new brewmaster, Takao Nihei, who was brought from Japan. He had been with the Japanese government brewing experimental station in Tokyo for 10 years. He created a new Sake, the “Takara Musume,” which would be released in a few months. Nihei stated that the brewing equipment at the brewery was “comparable to that of the better brewing companies in Japan." He also noted that the Japanese only brew Sake in the winter, but Hawaii, with the use of refrigeration, can manufacture it year around.
A new Sparkling Sake! The
Honolulu Advertiser (HI), July 2, 1956, reported that the Honolulu Sake Brewery was selling a new sparkling dry Sake,
Polo Champion. Daizo Sumida stated, “
the new drink combines the tastes of sake and champagne.” He continued, “
We have effectively eliminated the sweetness and familiar odor of true sake and developed in its place a delicate effervescent drink suitable for every occasion.” Polo Champion, with an 8% ABV, could be used a table or cooking wine. However, this Sparkling Sake didn't do well, and was eventually taken off the market.
The
Honolulu Advertiser (HI), February 15, 1958, provided a brief biography of
Daizo Sumida, who was 70 years old and still the President of the Honolulu Sake Brewery. He came to Hawaii in 1904, when he was 18. I'll note that his brother, Tajiro, came to Hawaii in 1899 (when he was 16 years old), and opened up T. Sumida, as a wholesale liquor dealer. Eventually, when Tajiro returned to Japan, Daizo became the president of T. Sumida & Co. and the Vice President and manager of the Sake brewery.
When Prohibition struck in Hawaii, and Sake brewing had to stop, Daizo changed T. Sumida & Co. into a general grocery business, headquartered in a 3-story building (built in 1926) at Maunakea and Pauahi Streets. His only son, Shinzaburo Sumida, is currently managing that business;. Today, the brewery, on 2 1.2 acres in Pauoa Valley, produces Sake, shoyu, vinegar and ice. Their brand names include Takara Masamune, Takara Musume, Polo Champion, Diamond Shoyu and Takara Su.
In December 1959, the Honolulu Sake Brewery published advertisements for a special sale during the month of December. The
Takara Masamune was sold by the Gallon (Reg. $5.65, Sale $4.98), ½ Gallon (Reg. $2.88, Sale $2.49), and Quart (Reg. $1.49, Sale $1.29).
Two years later, in December 1961, the prices for Takara Masamune remained the same. The brewery was also now selling another brand, Takara Musume by the Gallon (Reg. $4.65, Sale $3.95), ½ Gallon (Reg. $2.40, Sale $2.05), and Quart (Reg. $1.25, Sale $1.05). In April 1965, a gallon of Takara Masamune was selling for $5.15 and in October 1968, it would sell for $1.45 for a 30 ounce bottle. And in May 1969, the Takara Masamune was selling for $2.99 for a half gallon while in September 1970, a 30 ounce bottle sold for $1.60.
There was a lengthy article about Sake in the Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), April 17, 1960, addressing Sake history and the production process. The article began, “Honolulu is the sake capital of the Western Hemisphere.” It also stated, “And Honolulu claims to be the only place in the world where sparkling Sake, a carbonated beverage aimed at Western tastes, is manufactured.” At the time, there were three Sake breweries in the Western Hemisphere, including the Honolulu Sake Brewery, the Fuji Sake Brewing Co. of Honolulu and one unnamed brewery in Brazil.
It was noted that the Honolulu Sake Brewery, with 35 employees, produces about 100,000 gallons annually, which is only 25% of their capacity. They use “extra fancy California rice,” which had been initially polished 10% at the mill, but then polished 25% more at the brewery. The Fuji Sake brewery, with 25 employees, produces 75,000 gallons.
The article added that, “The best grade of sake made locally has an alcoholic content of 19 to 20 per cent and retails for $5.65 a gallon.” In general, the price of Sake depends on its alcoholic content, with the cheapest costing about $3.99 a gallon for the 15% ABV. In comparison to these prices, Sake imported from Japan generally cost about 20% more. The major market for Sake had been the older Japanese, but as they passed away, the market was declining. In addition, “Although sake is taken chilled by some, the older generation still likes it warmed.”
The Honolulu Advertiser (HI), September 23, 1960, provided biographic information about Daizo Sumida. Daizo's father was a farmer in Hiroshima Prefecture, and he advised his son to seek a career abroad, in the U.S., rather than become a farmer. So, Daizo traveled across the Pacific, arriving in Hawaii on November 26, 1904, but he didn’t speak any English at first. Daizo met his brother Tajiro, and together they discussed the possibility of producing Sake in Hawaii, to compete with high-priced imported Sake.
They realized that the heat of Hawaii was a significant obstacle, so “a refrigeration system became indispensable to the brewing process." Thus, they decided to establish an ice making plant with their brewery. Initially, they used only Japanese rice, especially as California rice hadn’t yet appeared in the market. Nowadays, they only use California rice.
One of the saddest items from this biography is that the day after Pearl Harbor, Daizo Sumida, about 55 years old, was detained at Sand Island, a small internment camp on a coral island in the Honolulu harbor. His property was confiscated although it was fortunately returned at the end of the war. Approximately 450 Japanese were held in this internment camp and it definitely wasn't a pleasant experience. Another source indicates that Daizo had only initially been interned at Sand Island, and was later moved to a camp in Santa Fe, New Mexico. And he wasn't permitted to return to Hawaii until December 1945.
In April 1961, the Honolulu Sake Brewery created its third sparkling Sake, the Polynesian Champion. According to the Honolulu Advertiser (HI), April 19, 1961, “A new Island-made wine aimed at the feminine taste and guaranteed against hangover was uncorked yesterday at the Princess Kaiulani Hotel.” It was a carbonated Sake and Transpacific Export-Import Co. president Herbert B. Granas stated that, “It is intended primarily as something light for the ladies, but it also will appeal to those men who don’t want to get ‘stoned’ on a few drinks when they’re out for an occasion.”
On a trip to Hawaii in 1956, Granas tasted and enjoyed some sparkling Sake from the Honolulu Sake Brewery, likely the Polo Champion, and wanted them to produce a new flavored sparkling Sake. The new Polynesian Champion had only 10% alcohol, a natural golden color and a fruity flavor from the addition of pineapple, reflective of Hawaii. The initial production of Polynesian Champion was about 500 cases a month and was available for $3.95 for a fifth. It was intended to be sold in Hawaii, on the Mainland, and abroad as well.
Later, in 1967, the president of the Honolulu Sake Brewery discussed their experiences over the years with sparkling Sake. “We tried carbonated sake in Hawaii but it didn’t go too well.” When their mainland distributor, Mr. Granas, asked them to change the flavor of their sparkling Sake to pineapple, they decided to take a chance and do so. It didn't sell well in Hawaii either so all of the Polynesian Champion was shipped to the mainland. I guess most people weren't ready at the time for sparkling Sake.
Unfortunately, on January 1, 1962, Daizo Sumida, the president of the Honolulu Sake Brewery died at the age of 74, from complications due to a stroke, though the company would continue, although with challenges. The company's new President was Daizo's son, Shinzaburo Sumida, and Takao Nihei, their brewmaster, was the corporate Treasurer. I'll note that Shinzaburo's birth father was Tajiro Sumida, but upon his death, Daizo adopted Shinzaburo, who had no children of his own.
The
Honolulu Advertiser (HI), November 13, 1962, provided a recipe from the Honolulu Sake Brewery for
Hawaiian Ono Ono Barbecue Sauce, which was made with their Diamond Shoyu and Takara Sake. You could still make this recipe today, although you just have to use different brands of shoyu and Sake.
By 1967, the Honolulu Sake Brewery was the only remaining sake brewery in the U.S. According to the
Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), August 14, 1967, “
Sake is selling more and more, but Hawaii’s AJA’s seem to be buying less and less of the total.” Sake sales were 1 1/2 times greater than they had been in 1960, probably due to more non-Japanese drinking Sake. Shinzaburo Sumida claimed he could tell who was drinking Sake based on the size of the bottles which were purchased. Traditionally, Japanese bought Sake in half-gallon bottles, but as quart sizes were now more popular, it meant that more non-Japanese were consuming it. About 1/3 of their sales were shipped to the Mainland with San Francisco and Los Angeles accounting for the bulk of sales.
This success was threatened though as proposed new zoning laws could force them to close their brewery. It was proposed that the area of their brewery would become zoned residential, and though the brewery would remain as a non-conforming use, they wouldn't be able to make any major alterations or repairs to the brewery. At the time, the brewery employed 35 people and had paid $70,000 in taxes the prior year. The decision on the rezoning was deferred for a time and the brewery had to consider possible relocation. Fortunately, in December 1968, it was decided that the area would be rezoned as light industrial so the brewery wouldn't need to move.
The
Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), October 11, 1967, noted that the Honolulu Sake Brewery had been the fist to use a refrigeration system and produce Sake year round. Several Japanese Sake breweries were now using similar refrigeration systems. The article also provided the above photo, a simple description of the Sake brewing process.
The
Honolulu Advertiser (HI), February 20, 1968, provided an advertisement from the Honolulu Sake Brewery with a diagram of the shoyu process. It's a fascinating picture, and I'm sure many readers would have previously had little knowledge of how shoyu was produced.
In February 1969, the Honolulu Sake Brewery published this cool advertisement in a Hawaiian newspaper, showing their sake production process. Another fascinating diagram.
The
Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), January 17, 1971, noted that there had been 7 Hawaiians Sake breweries prior to World War II, including 2 on Maui, 2 on the Big Island, and 3 on Honolulu. However, now there was only one, the Honolulu Sake Brewery, pictured above, although there were said to be 3 Sake breweries in Brazil. It was also claimed that the Honolulu Sake Brewery was, “
The first active sake brewery ever built outside of Japan.” However, we know that isn't true.
Shinsaburo Sumida, president of the Honolulu Sake Brewery, indicated they had reached their sales peak in 1967 to 1969, and there had been a slight decrease since then. He indicated, "There's no market now. The Japanese here, especially the younger ones, drink highballs instead of sake these days." They still sell over 100,000 gallons a year, two-thirds in Hawaii and the rest on the Mainland, and about 50% of their sales occur during December and January. He also noted that Sake is enjoyable both chilled and warmed. It was also noted that “Some sake experts claim that sake made from California rice is not as sweet as sake made from Japanese rice.”
The article also mentioned,
Takao Nihei, the brewmaster, who, in the prior year, had received one of the Brewmasters Association of Japan’s top awards for technical achievements in the sake industry, including for:
- “The conversion of traditional three-shift, 24 hour brewing operation into a single-shift, eight-hour operation."
- “The development of an organic mutant in sake-brewing yeast which prevents a foam formation during the brewing process.”
- “The use, during sake-brewing’s mold-culture stage, of large carrying trays which are easier to handle than small wooden trays which have been used in sake factories for centuries."
Shoyu leader! The
Honolulu Advertiser (HI), July 11, 1974, mentioned that the Honolulu Sake Brewery was now the largest producer of shoyu, having corned about 45% of the market. Their sales had increased in 1972 by about 11, and then increased in 1973 by another 13%. One of the reasons for these increases were more Mainland sales.
There was an advertisement for the Honolulu Sake Brewery in the
Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), December 1, 1975. It promoted its
Takara Masamune Sake, recommending it to wine lovers, and mentioning that it can be drank hot or chilled over ice.
The
Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), March 29, 1976, briefly noted that the Honolulu Sake Brewery, the only one in the U.S., used California pearl rice which had been polished by 30%.
Another advertisement. The
Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), February 22, 1977, published this ad, which claimed the Honolulu Sake Brewery was the first manufacturer of Sake in the U.S. It also claimed it was the only brewery in the world that made Sake year round. Finally, it claimed there were only four Sake breweries located outside of Asia.
The Honolulu Sake Brewery continued to expand its products. The
Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), July 17, 1977, reported that they were now making
Diamond Teriyaki sauce. “
It is made from a special formula, the only teriyaki sauce manufactured locally to include naturally brewed soy sauce. In that formula are regular and Jamaican ginger, cayenne and black pepper, garlic and the great taste enhancer, Mirin (Japanese cooking wine).” Their other products included Diamond Shoyu, Diamond Mirin, Diamond Vinegar, Takara Masamune, and Takara Musume Sake.
The
Honolulu Advertiser (HI), November 16, 1978, published an article celebrating the 70th anniversary of the Honolulu Sake Brewery. It was mentioned that there were about 3000 Sake breweries in Japan, and at least 900 of them have sent representatives to visit the Honolulu brewery. Many of those breweries then copied their refrigeration system. The Honolulu brewery now sold about 70% of their production on the Mainland, and expected to export some to Japan in the near future. Sumida gave much of the credit of their success to brewmaster Takao Nihei who improved the quality of their Sake.
There were few references or advertisements to the Honolulu Sake Brewery during the 1980s. The
Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), January 7, 1985, had ad for their Takara Masamune Sake, noting their 77 years of Sake making experience, and stating they were "
the oldest Sake distiller outside of Japan."
The Honolulu Sake Brewery continued to operate their brewery until 1989, though it became a subsidiary of
Takara Sake in 1986. The
Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), February 19, 1987, reported the sale went through in April 1986, and Takara paid about $2.8 Million for the brewery. Takara invested about $600,000 in renovating the brewery, and adding new equipment. The brewery had been making 150,000-200,000 gallons annually, but it was hoped to increase that to 300,000 gallons within a year and a half. Takara, which owned another brewery in California, produced 90% of the Sake made in the U.S. The Ozeki Sake Brewery was the only other Sake brewery in the U.S.
It was said that the brewery has been making $2 Million in sales annually, with Sake accounting for 55% of that amount. 75% of their Sake was sold on the Mainland, with the rest sold in Hawaii. "Faced with a much tougher competitor, Honolulu Sake realized it had to modernize its decades-old facilities to survive,.." That would have required about $1 Million and they didn't have that much. In early 1985, Takara first approached the brewery with an offer to purchase them.
Sadly, when the Honolulu Sake brewery closed in 1989, it was destroyed to make way for townhouses. The Honolulu Sake Brewery left an important legacy, being a pioneer in a number of sake-related items, from the use of refrigeration to the invention of sparkling sake. It wasn't the first sake brewery in the U.S. but it had the greatest impact of any of them.
As for Takao Nihei, one of his hobbies, once his came to the U.S., was creating miniature scenes. Around 1973, he created a miniature of the Honolulu Sake Brewery, which the
Honolulu Advertiser (HI), March 9, 1988, noted it possessed,
"a removable roof that shows interior details, right down to specific processing rooms." Once the brewery closed, and Takao was largely retired, he devoted much more time to these miniatures, eventually exhibiting them at a series of art shows, starting at least as early as 1985.
The Honolulu Advertiser (HI), March 9, 1988, that these were, "Teeny weeny miniatures that depict a Japan of yesterday which is quickly fading today.” It continued, "Monouri, the Japanese term for street vendor, were to the common folk of historical Japan what craft fair artisans are today: Takao Nihei, age 62, retired Sake brewmaster; hobby is “creating miniatures. Teeny weeny miniatures that depict a Japan of yesterday which is quickly fading today.” Nihei created sets including a shoyu and miso factory, a Japanese bath house, and an omocha-ya (toy store). He also created a village of four food stands, offering donburi, mochi, dumplings, and sushi.
Nihei stated, “To me, this is life—what people loved,…” as well as “All of my miniatures are simple things, reflecting the spirit of the human life.” He creates these miniatures from items he has around the house, and doesn't sell any of them either. He would continue to exhibit his miniatures up until the time of his death, at age 68, in February 1994.
The Honolulu Star Bulletin (HI), March 2, 1994, provided an old quote from Takao on the nature of Sake brewing. “The brewer must have a good heart, and harmony must exist between him and his workers in order to make good sake.” It was also noted in the Honolulu Star Bulletin (HI), April 12, 2000, that Takao had consulted with the Hakusan Sake brewery in Napa Valley on at least their Junmai Sake.
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The New Phase of U.S. Sake Breweries
It wouldn't be until the end of the 1970s that the next crop of new Sake breweries, in California, were established, one in 1978 and the other in 1979. It seems only fitting that the first of these new breweries during this new phase was established in Berkeley, California, the same city where the first ever U.S. Sake brewery was located. With the growing cost of Japanese Sake imports, it was believed that Sake, of similar quality, could be produced in the U.S. but at a significant decrease in cost.
At least as far back as 1962, Taketsugu Numano was representing the House of Koshu, an importer of Japanese liquors. Most commonly known as Take, he was a Japanese black belt judo expert and a former instructor to the U.S. armed forces. And at least by 1971, he was the president of Numano International Inc., importing the House of Koshu brands. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), April 3, 1972, discussed Take Numano, noting that his Sake brands consisted of 40% of the American market. He noted that, “Today the younger generation in the United States is the largest consumer of sake...It does especially well in college towns; students seem to like it because it’s something different, something exotic.” With the goal of reaching the younger market, Numano even created a new brand, Sakitumi. Namano also added, “The West Coast is the best sake market, but New York, Chicago, Philadelphia, Boston and Miami are growing customer areas,..”
More details on Numano's Sake success. The Los Angeles Times (CA), April 3, 1972, quoted Numano, “Our biggest sales are in upper middle income, predominantly Caucasian areas such as Beverly Hills, Tarzana, Northridge and Newport Beach.” In addition, he noted that Sake sales in the Southern states were unsuccessful. Numano also mentioned, “But sales are slow in predominantly Japanese-American sections of town.”
About 15 years ago, only 1000 cases were imported but, by 1971, imports have exploded to 250,000 cases. In 1972, Numano expected a massive 50% growth. The U.S. accounted for 87% of the export market for Japanese Sake. The House of Koshu offered a 24 ounce bottle of Sake for only $2. The brand took its name from the Koshu district, located near Mount Fuji, where the Furusawa Sake Brewing Ltd was situated. They produced the House of Koshu Sake for Numano.
In 1978, a partnership was formed that would lead to a new Sake brewery in Berkeley. The
Berkeley Gazette (CA), April 13, 1978, reported that Take Numano, of Numano International, partnered with Curtis M. Rocca, president of Pacific International Rice Mills Inc. (California’s largest independent rice processor). They were going to create “
a multi-million-dollar sake production out of a former Berkeley dairy at 708 Addison Street.” The new brewery was to be called the Numano Sake Co., and they hoped to begin production in the summer. Their loft goal was to sell $20 Million of Sake by 1980.
The Sake production would use a special strain of California rice that had been developed, over the courses of six years, by Rice Researchers Inc. of Woodland. It was noted that California rice generally cost $400 a ton, while Japanese rice cost $1200 a ton. So, it was far more cost effective to use California rice. Dr. Tadahiko Hozumi, a former official of the Japanese Sake Bureau, was hired as a consultant and would supervise all of the brewing operations.
The Baltimore Sun (MD), April 15, 1978, added that the new brewery would occupy a 47,000 square feet building. Numano also said there was an ancient Japanese proverb, that “Sake should be served warm…and by a warm-hearted woman.”
The Oakland Tribune (CA), October 16, 1978, provided more details. First, the brewery brought 5 sake brewers from Japan, including the 40-year old Seizaburo Kawano, to supervise sake production. The brewery sat on 3 ½ acres at the corner of Fourth and Addison streets. Take Numano stated, “Sake should be drunk before and during meals. We don’t expect too much consumption by Americans in the beginning.” How did Numano plan to make Sake more popular? “Education is Numano’s first goal in swinging tastes toward sake. An extensive advertising and promotional campaign—sweetened by tours and tastings at the brewery—should be in high gear by the end of the year.”
Numano did not agree with all of the beliefs of the 5 Sake brewers, all traditionalists, that had been brought on board. First, "The traditionalists say that modern methods of refrigeration and fermentation can adversely alter quality.” On the other hand, Numano believed that modernization helped control quality. Second, “Kawano even believes in the traditional banning of all women from sake breweries because the monthly change in female metabolisms can contaminate fermentation.”
The Numano brewery started production! The
Oakland Tribune (CA), April 2, 1979, mentioned that the Numano brewery had been dedicated the week before, and began production with a goal of 250,000 cases a week. Above, is a photo of Take Numano. The article even gave a nod to the actual first Sake brewery in the U.S. “
The Japan Brewing Company which produced a rice nectar was in business from 1904 to 1906.” Despite this article, the vast majority of people continued to believe the Honolulu Sake Brewery was the first Sake brewery.
The Lincoln Star (NE), April 30, 1980, noted that Seizaburo Kawano, their Sake master, produced 150,000 gallons last year, with plans to produce 250,000 gallons in 1980. It was also mentioned that their California rice was a sweeter strain than what was used in Japan, although the Sake didn't possess a sweeter taste.
The Winston-Salem Journal (NC), May 4, 1980, mentioned that Take Numano liked to think their Sake was fresher and lighter than what was being imported from in Japan. Numano had two labels, including Koshu Masamune (sweeter, to be drunk warm, and mainly sold in restaurants) and Numano’s Sake (to be drank cold). As for statistics, in 1975, Japan exported to about 330,000 gallons of Sake to the U.S. and then 487,000 gallons in 1978. In 1979, U.S. Sake consumption, on the mainland, was about 550,000 gallons.
A liquor store advertisement in the Santa Cruz Sentinel (CA), February 4, 1981, mentioned that Numano’s Sake (1.5 liter) sold for $6.89 and the Numano Plum Wine (1.5 liter) sold for $4.29.
A lengthy article concerning Numano and Sake was published in The Sacramento Bee (CA), March 18, 1981. At the time, Numano was one of two Sake breweries in California, as Ozeki Sake Brewing Co. had opened in Hollister. In 1979, Numano had sold 150,000 gallons of Sake, 250,000 gallons in 1980, and expected to double that in 1981. Numano was also exporting about 20% of their production to Japan. The Numano brewery occupied the space of the former Challenge Dairy, near the Berkeley Marina, and it possessed an attractive tasting room.
Numano's Sake was claimed to be “smoother, lighter, crisper and fresher than the sake” imported from Japan since the end of World War 2. During the war, Japan sustained significant rice shortages so they had to dilute the Sake with water as well as add "distilled corn molasses alcohol." After the war, it was claimed that, “… Japanese sake makers also are diluting much of their brew with water, sweetening it with glucose, spiking it with monosodium glutamate and infusing it with preservatives.” In comparison, Numano was making Sake made only with rice, koji, and “Sierra Nevada mountain water brought to Berkeley via aqueduct (Berkeley tap water, in other words, additionally de-ionized, de-odorized and filtered).” In the U.S., if a Sake maker added any alcohol to the Sake, it would have been taxed as a spirit rather than as a beer, making it more expensive.
In 1981, Numano would likely use about 500 tons of Sacramento valley rice. They used 4 rice strains, especially Tsuru-Mai, a medium-grained, starch-rich rice, and the rice was generally milled about 32%. They had to import koji from Japan, as prior attempts to create koji in the U.S. had failed so far. It was also noted that the brewing process took about 120 days. Numano makes 3 styles of Sake as well as a white rice wine. A Numano PR director stated their sake was “more mellow and softer and doesn’t have the strong bite” that Japanese sake does. It was also mentioned that their Sake generally sells for about $3.79 for a 750ml bottle.
The article writer provided some of their own tasting notes for the Numano Sake. The Numano Dry California Sake, made primarily for American tastes, is supposed to be a little drier and light in body than traditional Japan Sake. The writer stated it was clear, dry, and medium bodied, but “It lacks memorable distinction in either aroma or flavor, although its high alcohol makes it hot and makes it strong, but not harsh.” It’s also recommended that this Sake be served chilled, and the writer suggested drinking it over ice with a wedge of lime.
The Koshu Masamune Sake was made to be somewhat sweeter and more like traditional Sake, and should be drank as warm as “baby’s bottled milk.” The writer noted it was “clear, lightly sweet, full bodied, with an aroma reminiscent of pears and a taste of a mild marshmallow candy.” The Koshu White Rice Wine, with a 12% ABV, was "crisper, mellower and lighter in body than the sakes, but its aroma is flat and its flavor undistinguished, coming off a tad sweet at first sip.” The writer also tasted their Senryo Mirin, a main ingredient in teriyaki sauce, which was noted to be an "exceptionally sweet sake intended for cooking, not drinking,..” However, the brewery suggested that you could use it as a sugar substitute in your coffee.
More information about Numano was provided in the Berkeley Gazette (CA), November 23, 1981. First, it was noted that when the Numano Brewery was formed as a joint venture, Numano International owned 20% and Pacific Rice owned 80%. Second, it was noted that Sake consumption had grown by 15% over the last two years and Numano had “... captured the lion’s share of the market.” Their annual production is nearly 300,000 cases, and they now sell their Sake in 43 states, as well as exporting about 30,000 cases to Japan this year.
Last year’s mini-series Shogun helped to boost Sake sales. Will the new remake of Shogun, currently airing, also boost Sake sales? Numano has been recommending that their Sake be drank cold, and also that it can be substituted for any white liquor in your favorite cocktail. They even recommend, “And try sake and cider. It’s great.”
The Modesto Bee (CA), December 2, 1981, also mentioned that the Shogun mini-series had led to increased Sake sales. In 1970, imported Japanese Sake totaled 920,680 quarts, and ten years later, in 1980, the total was 1,620,728 quarts. About 80% of Sake was sold in Japanese restaurants rather than at retail. In 1980, the Numano brewery produced 70,000 cases of sake (about 672K quarts) and anticipated doubling that amount in 1981. Kris Lam, the tasting room manager for Numano, stated, “Sake is quite versatile. It can be a substitute for light run, gin, vodka or tequila and some Mexican restaurants are offering a sake Margarita.”
However, there were problems with Sake exports to Japan. The Berkeley Gazette (CA), December 11, 1981, reported the U.s. government was engaging in trade talks with Japan, addressing complaints of some companies dealing with Japan, including the Numano Brewery. Rocca, the President of Numano, complained that the duty on exporting their Sake to Japan was six times higher than the duty on Sake imports to the U.S. In addition, Numano produced a high grade sake, which normally in Japan would be expensive and commonly bought as a gift. However, all imported Sake was automatically classified as the lowest of 3 grades, so it wouldn't be seen as high grade and could be sold for a high price. Plus, Rocca stated, “overzealous lower-level government officials had discouraged Japanese distributing companies from handling Numano’s brands.” Thus, Numano sales in Japan were a small fraction of what they were two years ago.
Sake recipes! Newsday (NY), May 12, 1982, printed an article about Numano Sake Brewery, with a number of recipes using their Sake. Kate Earl, who was in charge of special events for Numano, stated,“We are teaching, teaching, teaching. Once you try it, you usually fine 80 per cent are converted.” It's great that they understood the importance of education concerning Sake. The article provided some information on Sake production, ending with a series of recipes, including Stir Fry Chicken with Vegetables, Teriyaki Sauce, Ginger Sauce, Plum Sake Punch, Sake n’ Cider, and Numano’s Guava Tropics.
The Sake n’ Cider is intriguing, not a combination I'd seen elsewhere, and it essentially was warm apple cider with Sake, about a mix of 60% cider and 40% Sake. The cider was then garnished with a cinnamon stick and a thin slice of orange.
Sold! The Oakland Tribune (CA), July 10, 1982, reported that Numano Sake had been sold to the Takara Shuzo Co. Ltd of Japan. Takara was said to be Japan’s largest producer of Sake and they marketed the Shochikubai brand and Takara Plum Wine. In addition, PIRMI was being acquired by the Early California Food Industries Inc. of Los Angeles. The Berkeley Gazette (CA), August 2, 1982, added more details, noting that Takara had actually purchased only a 66% interest in Numano Sake, with PIRMI holding 37%. PIRMI would continue to supply and mill the rice for the brewery, which would retain the Numano brand name for their Sake for a time.
Almost a year later, the San Francisco Examiner (CA), March 23, 1983, published an article by Harvey Steiman, a wine writer, about Sake. He began, “Sake, the Japanese rice wine, has every bit as much culture, even mystique, as the fermented juice of the grape.” He also noted, “Numano’s sakes have a higher level of koji flavor than most sakes imported from Japan. The people at Numano say that’s the way sake used to be made before World War II. During the war, to save money, the Japanese added alcohol and water to stretch the brew. They say this is still the accepted practice in Japan.” Numano sake is “flavorful, made without preservatives and additional alcohol.” Steiman also stated, "…Numano California Sake, made to be served cool, a slightly sweet wine with the definite taste of rice and hints of the chestnut flavor of koji.” Her continued, noting that the Koshu Masamune Sake, “It is nearly dry, with a strong taste of koji.” Finally, be mentioned that their Sho-chikubai brand “...is lighter, less sweet and closer to the taste of imported sake.”
Takara Sake USA still exists, although they no longer sell the Numano brand.
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The second of the new Sake breweries in California was established as the Ozeki Sake Brewing Co. in Hollister in 1979. Ozeki, which was founded in 1711, was said to be the third or fourth largest Sake brewery in Japan. Since about 1965, Ozeki Sake had been exported to the U.S. Around 1974 or so, Ozeki began to explore the possibility of opening a Sake brewery in California, and five years later, that became a reality.
The Los Angeles Times (CA), December 9, 1979, reported that Ozeki had partnered with San Benito Orchards, a small producer of fruit wines, as a partner in a new Sake brewery in Hollister, California, about 100 miles south of San Francisco. The brewery cost about $1.2 Million and was expected to begin production early in 1980. Rodney Ballard, the president of San Benito Orchards, had specialized in “Oriental fermentation processes at UC Berkeley.” Minoru Inao, a Sake brewmaster at Ozeki in Japan for 32 years, would supervise the new brewery.
Minoru Takagi, manager of Ozeki’s international division, stated “We feel Hollister’s climate, water and rice are perfect. We’ve test-brewed in Japan using California water and rice and our conclusion is that Sake here will be the same or better.” Their initial annual production should be about 96,000 gallons and they hoped to double it within three years. In addition, Ozeki would also undertake a major advertising effort in California stressing the sake-on-the rocks theme it used to capture young drinkers in Japan. Finally, it was noted that Ozeki sake already occupied a 12% market share, and desired to make that even higher with the new brewery.
The Californian (CA), May 3, 1980, provided many more details about this endeavor. The new brewery, under the name Ozeki San Benito, Inc., was a joint venture. About two years ago, negotiations between the Ozeki and San Benito started. For the joint venture, Ozeki owned 40%, San Benito owned 40%,, Kikkoman Shoyu Co, Ltd owned 15%, and JFC International Inc of South San Francisco owned 5%. JFC would distribute the Sake in the U.S. while Kikkoman would sell the mirin under their own brand name.
The article also provided some information on Ozeki, noting they have 6 breweries in Japan and produce almost 17 Million gallons of Sake annually. Ozeki started considering the idea of a brewery in the U.S. due to economic reasons. For example, rice prices were three times higher in Japan than California. Plus, labor and packaging costs were rising faster in Japan than in the U.S. It also helped that the water in Hollister, which was low in iron content, seemed excellent for Sake production.
Their new brewmaster would be Minori Inao, the production manager would be Michitsugu Ogawa, and Hiroshi Hanamori would be the assistant brewmaster. The brewery was about 18,000 square feet and much of the equipment had been imported from Japan. The brewery had 24 huge stainless steel fermentation tanks. In addition, the new brewery is located next to the San Benito Winery building, and there is a Japanese garden in front of the brewery's office. Sake production started in November 1979 and the first bottling would occur later in May, with distribution planned for June. Ozeki claimed that their California brewery was the most traditional of other two U.S. Sake breweries.
The
Californian (CA), November 22, 1980, published an advertisement for a Holiday Sale and Open House at the Ozeki brewery.
The Sacramento Bee (CA), March 18, 1981, reported that the new Ozeki brewery made about 80,000 gallons of Sake in 1980, a bit lower than they had previously predicted. They hoped to produce about 120,000 gallons in 1981, and probably would use about 300 tons of rice. They also hadn't yet exported any Sake to Japan. Ozeki principally used a short-grained pearl rice in their brewing. They made two different styles: first, a traditional Sake intended to be consumed warmed or chilled, and second, a mirin. At this point, Numano Sake Brewery was still the larger of the two breweries.
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In 1984, the four Sake breweries, located in California and Hawaii, were producing about 505,000 gallons of Sake, and another 750,000 gallons were imported from Japan.
After Take Numano sold his Sake brewery to Takara in 1982, he eventually established another Sake Brewery. In 1987, Numano, working with
Yaegaki Corp., formed the
American Pacific Rim Co. in Vernon, California, starting production in 1988. The company produced two brands,
California Ki-Ippon Dry Sake and
California Ki-Ippon Premium Dry (also known as
Arabashiri, which means "first-run"). The company also imported 27 Japanese Sakes. For about six years, the brewery produced about 300,000 gallons of Sake annually. At some point, at least after 1997,
Yaegaki Corp. took over the brewery, renaming it Yaegeki USA, and this brewery still exists.
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As the 1990s began, there were only three Sake breweries in the U.S., including Takara Sake USA, Ozeki Sake Brewing Co. and the American Pacific Rim Co. From 1990-1992, three more Sake breweries would open, including the Hakusan Sake Gardens (California), Gekkeikan Sake USA (California), and Hakushika Sake USA (Colorado). In 1993, the six U.S. Sake breweries, located in California and Colorado, were producing about 1.65 million gallons of Sake, and another 500,000 gallons were imported from Japan.
Both Hakusan and Hakushika eventually closed. And in 1997,
SakeOne, in Oregon, began producing Sake as well, and it continues to operate today. This would all lead to a burst of new Sake breweries in the 21th century, a topic for another time.
