Mellasat Vineyards: A White Pinotage

Pinotage can be a polarizing grape, one that you either love or hate. However, I believe that much of the criticism is due to some poor examples from the past, and not a proper tasting of the wines that now are being produced in South Africa. I've long been a fan of Pinotage and was intrigued recently when perusing the wine shelves at the Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose (where I work part-time) and noticed a White Pinotage.

White Pinotage? Red grapes can be used to make white wine as the color of wine is usually derived from the skins. If you press the red grapes quickly, and keep the juice away from the skins, you can obtain a "white" wine. That is a simple explanation for what can be a more complex process, but the important fact is to know that it is possible.

The Mellasat Vineyards are located at the foot of the Klein Drakenstein Mountains in the Paarl region of South Africa. Some of the vineyards were once part of the Dekkersvlei farm, which was established in 1693. In 1996, Stephen Richardson, an Englishman with a deep passion for wine, purchased the property  He replaced some of the pre-existing Chenin Blanc vines with Pinotage, and the entire vineyard is only around eight hectares.

In 2007, Richardson chose to create the first barrel-fermented White Pinotage. No other winery appears to make a still White Pinotage bottling, though under South African wine law, it cannot be labeled as a "white wine" because it is made from red grapes. Instead, it must be labeled as "blanc de noirs." The grapes are "whole bunched pressed without de-stemming or crushing in a pneumatic “bag” press to minimise colour retention." They are fermented in 300 liter Romanian oak barrels (19% new). The wine spends about 11 months in the barrel with regular stirring of the lees.

The 2012  Mellasat White Mellasat ($27) won't remind you of Pinotage and  in a blind taste test, you would never guess the correct grape. With an alcohol content of 13.5%, I found it to be complex, intriguing and delicious. I have seen several sources say that it is reminiscent of Chardonnay, and I can see some of the reasons for such a belief, but I also think there are differences too which might get you thinking of a few other white grapes, from Melon de Bourgogne to Viognier.

There is a certain richness to the wine, likely due to the time on the lees, but there is plenty of crisp acidity to balance this richness. That may bring to mind a fine Muscadet. There is an interesting melange of flavors, including tropical fruits and bright citrus, as well as a backbone of minerality. Well balanced and with a lengthy, satisfying finish, I loved this wine and feel the quality of the wine is worth the price. Even if you think you dislike Pinotage, you are going to enjoy this wine. It is unique and interesting, delicious and compelling.

Seek out this South African treasure.

Stoneham Sun: Walters Handmade Honey Nougat

My new column of "A Passionate Foodie" can be found in the February 10 issue of the Stoneham Sun newspaper. This is a weekly column that concentrates on reviews of local restaurants though it also sometimes touches on other food and wine topics.

The new column has been published today and will be available online soon. The new article is a review of rwo South African treats, Walters Handmade Honey Nougat and Angels Nougat Biscuits. These are high quality foods which I have found very delicious and compelling. They can be found at the Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose.

If you have any questions or comments about my column, feel free to add them here.

Dine with passion.

Walters Handmade Honey Nougat

I have long been a fan of South African wines, from Chenin Blanc to Pinotage. But my experience with South African food has been very limited. But I have recently tasted a couple sweet treats from South Africa which delighted my palate and which will be sure to please my readers as well.

The Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose is now carrying several different food products from South Africa. I stopped by recently to buy some of these new items, including two treats produced by Walters Handmade Honey Nougat, a family-based company in South Africa.

In 1999, the Walters family moved to a new home, which they called Wedgewood, making it a venue for classical music concerts. Gilly Walters would prepare home-made food for the audiences and one of the most popular items was her Nougat. It was so popular that she began selling it at farmers' markets, and then eventually retail stores. The growth has continued and now it is a significant business, with additional products.

There are some limitations though. As their nougat is made by hand, the amount they can produce is limited to some degree. So, they have chosen to concentrate on making the highest quality product that they can. They select quality natural ingredients and do not use gelatine, preservatives, or artificial colors. They also aim to be environmentally and socially responsibe, and work towards creating a sustainable business.

The nougat currently comes in several different sizes and flavors, including: Macadamia, Almond, Pecan Nut, Black Cherry & Almond, and Cranberry & Almond. Too many of the nougats I have tasted in the past have been hard and overly sweet. So I was a bit leery about Walters nougat but Rebecca at Beacon Hill Wine then gave it her recommendation. So I gave the Macadamia Nougat a try and was extremely glad that I did.

The nougat is very soft, almost like a thick marshmallow in consistency. It has a distinctive honey flavor, but the sweetness is restrained and pleasing rather than cloying and overwhelming. There were plenty of pieces of Macadamia nuts in the nougats adding an interesting crunchy texture to the soft nougat, as well as adding a nutty flavor. It is simply one of the best nougats I have ever tasted and it gets my highest recommendation.

Besides the nougat, they also produce Angels Nougat Biscuits. These are shortbread biscuits, made with real butter, and containing crisp nougat chunks and nuts. The small cookies are big on flavor, with a strong buttery flavor. The nougat adds an intriguing taste to the cookie, though you get more of a crunch than you do with the nougat bars. It seems easy to eat cookie after cookie until the box is gone. These also get my recommendation.

If you enjoy sweets, then stop by the Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose and get some of Walters Handmade Honey Nougat and Angels Nougat Biscuits. Maybe you will see me there stopping up.