2011: Favorite Food-Related Items

What were some of my favorite food-related items of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of the past year, 2011. Last week, I provided a list of my Favorite Restaurants of 2011 and now I want to address my favorites for other Food-Related Items, from markets to books, from ingredients to bakeries. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more food-related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite New Food Magazine: Chef David Chang's Milk Bar and Ssäm Bar made my list of Favorite Restaurants of 2011, and now his new magazine, Lucky Peach, makes one of my lists too. A quarterly magazine devoted to food, it is eclectic and irreverent, with fascinating articles, essays, recipes, and more. I eagerly devoured the first issue, and then again, the second issue, which was recently released. If you love compelling food writing, then pick up Lucky Peach.

Favorite Meat Cookbook: For carnivore's everywhere, check out The Butcher's Guide to Well Raised Meat by Joshua & Jessica Applestone and Alexandra Zissu. The book is part memoir, history, cookbook, and reference guide, with a mission of promoting local, sustainable meat. You will learn much about the art of butchery, proper cooking techniques, the differences of heritage animals, uses for offal, how to shop, and plenty more. A fascinating reference book, this earns my hearty recommendation.

Favorite Dessert Cookbook: Though released in September 2010, I didn't get a copy of this book until earlier this year. Flour, by local chef Joanne Chang, is an excellent choice for anyone who wants to do some baking. It begins with very useful introductory information about the basics of baking which could benefit anyone, before leading into a diverse variety of recipes from the famed Flour Bakery. I am sure you will find plenty of appealing recipes, for both sweet and savory treats. I highly recommend this book to anyone who intends to do some baking or loves desserts.

Favorite Ethnic Cookbook: Both encyclopedia and cookbook, Flavors of Malaysia by Chef Susheela Raghavan is a comprehensive and intriguing look at Malaysian cuisine. Besides all of the recipes, there is a lengthy history and reference section. There is even a section on how to give a Malaysian flair to other recipes. It is well written, interesting and very informative, one of the best ethnic cookbooks I have seen in a long time and I highly recommend it.

Favorite Food & Travel Book: If you are traveling to Tokyo, or just enjoy Japanese cuisine, then you should read Food Sake Tokyo by Yukari Sakamoto. You'll learn Japanese terminology, sushi etiquette, deciphering a Japanese menu, and much more. And if you are going to Tokyo, you will find plenty of intriguing recommendations for restaurants, food markets, and more. A fascinating book.

Favorite Japanese Cookbook: If you want to learn how to prepare Japanese cuisine, then you will enjoy the lessons found within My Japanese Table by Debra Samuels. There is lots of basic information as well as numerous recipes, from sushi to desserts. There is even a chapter on creating Bento boxes, one of Debra's passions. It is an aesthetically pleasing book too, with plenty of interesting recipes, and home cooks should definitely check it out.

Food Issue of the Year: One of the most important, and sometimes controversial, food issues I addressed this year was seafood sustainability. From the Legal Sea Foods blacklisted dinner to concerns about bycatch of sea mammals, I have covered a number of local seafood issues, delving behind the science and rhetoric. The importance of this matter cannot be underestimated, but it is sometimes difficult to get to the truth behind the issues. I am sure the issue will retain its prominence on my blog next year as well. To read all of my posts on this topic, check out the sustainability tag.

Favorite Food Trade Event: The International Boston Seafood Show (IBSS) is a massive trade event, a showcase for purveyors of seafood, as well as related vendors. You'll find tons of free seafood samples and learn much, from sustainability to cooking. It is an engaging event and I wrote several posts about the show, including: Ten Things You Should Know, Five More Things You Should Know, The Key to Sustainability and Food of Interest. I was also quite pleased that I won iPura's First Annual Tweet & Blogfest for my coverage of the show. I am looking forward to defending my title, which I call the Fish Head Whisperer, at the IBSS next year too and highly recommend all food bloggers attend as well. I welcome the competition.

Favorite Cheese: I was fortunate to taste a new cheese coming to the U.S., the Gligora Dairy Paški Sir, a Croatian cheese made from ewe's milk. It smells of grass and herbs and the taste is complex, with a tasty melange of herbal flavors, a mild creaminess and hints of salt. The cheese has a cool story behind it as well, and any cheese lover should try to find this new and exciting cheese.

Favorite Frozen Food: Though it may not be as good as fresh made, sometimes frozen foods actually deliver well on flavor. Maristella's Fine Foods Seafood Pot Pies were delicious, and someone might not even realize they were frozen. With intriguing flavor combinations like Lobster with Saffron Scented Creamed Corn and Wild Alaskan Salmon with Horseradish & Chipotle, the pastry was flaky and contained plenty of seafood. If you need a quick fix for dinner, give these a try.

Favorite Use of Fruit: While dining at Miho Izakaya, in Portland, Oregon, one of the dishes was Wasabi Watermelon, and though simple, it was impressive. Watermelon cubes, soaked in a wasabi sauce, and sprinkled with black sesame seeds. The juicy watermelon had a slight spicy kick which paired well to the sweetness of the fruit. Can't wait to make this next summer.

Favorite Chocolate: I feel that salty foods and chocolate make a great pairing, which is one of the reasons I enjoy bacon & chocolate. While in Portland, Oregon, I found the Xocolatl de David Chocolate Bar with Parmigiano Reggiano, and this was an excellent combination, the saltiness of the cheeses working well with the sweet chocolate. I can easily see other similar cheeses working well too with chocolate.  

Favorite Local Ice Cream: Alcohol in ice cream does not always work out, but there are exceptions. J.P. Licks makes a Wild Turkey Bourbon Ice Cream, a smooth and creamy frozen treat with just enough bourbon flavor to delight. Let your children enjoy vanilla and chocolate while you savor this more adult dessert.

Favorite Cookies: Gluten free cookies never tasted so good. Miss Maura's Delectable Delights produces a full line of cakes, cookies and pastries, including numerous gluten free delights. The Lime in the Coconut cookie was especially tasty, and it had a very homemade feel to it. The cookies are pricey, but you do get a high quality product.

Favorite Portland Food Stops: While visiting Portland, Oregon, I found several cool food markets, bakeries, donut shops and more.  For creative ice cream, check out the newly opened Salt & Straw, where I especially enjoyed their Pear With Blue Cheese ice cream. For a wide assortment of salts, artisan chocolates, wines and more, venture to The Meadow. And you can find a compilation post, discussing some excellent places to get donuts, cupcakes, and pie.

Favorite New NYC Food Market: An Italian mecca in New York City, Eataly addresses all of your needs, from cookbooks to fresh fish, from cheese to fresh pasta. You can shop for all your home cooking needs, or dine at their numerous restaurants. Where else will you find a vegetarian butcher?  There is little Italian you won't find here, but because of its huge popularity, it might be easier to venture there during off hours.

Favorite Toronto Food Stops: In the Distillery District, you will find an excellent bakery, the Brick Street Bakery, as well as a superb chocolate shop, SOMA Chocolate. If you travel to Yonge Street, you will find the interesting Cookbook Store, a place to find all of your food books needs, including some Canadian books that are not available in the U.S.

What were some of your favorite food-related items this year?

Origin: Tapas, Godzilla & A Young Stormtrooper

Toronto has plenty of excellent restaurants, a diverse collection of cuisines, so how do you decide where to dine if you only have a day or two?  You should read up on the restaurant scene, checking reviews, as well as seek personal recommendations. Consult the restaurant websites, viewing their menus and drink lists.  If good food is important to you, the research is well worth the effort. In the end, part of the decision will also be an emotional feeling, how you feel in the gut about a certain place.

For my first night in Toronto, I wanted a more casual restaurant, something close to my hotel. After a few hours traveling in the car, I just wanted a place to relax but I still wanted good food, especially if it were locally sourced.  So I decided on Origin, a tapas-style restaurant owned by Chef Claudio Aprile, who also owns Colborne Lane. The kitchen at Origin is run by Chef de Cuisine Steve Gonzalez, who has long worked with Aprile. It is a casual place, with a quirky and fun style, and was quite busy on a Sunday evening.

There are two main dining areas, one which includes a lengthy bar and the other which has an open kitchen. You can even sit in front of the open kitchen, watching the cooks prepare all of your dishes. That is where we sat, and it was enjoyable to watch all of the kitchen activity. In a small, private dining area, you'll see a large ceiling light, covered by hundreds of kaiju, Japanese monsters such as Godzilla and Mothra. Just a cool, funky light that enhances the vibe of this quirky restaurant.

The menu is eclectic, with plenty of Spanish and Asian influences, and consists of Sides & Snacks ($3-$9), Raw Bar ($9-$17), Mozzarella Bar ($16), Chilled ($9-$16) and Hot ($6-$27, with a single $79 entree). Many of their ingredients are locally sourced. In general, their small plates are meant to be shared, and I am a big fan of these type of places as it is a great way to sample a variety of dishes. There were plenty of items on the menu which appealed to me, so it took some time to decide on what I wanted that night.  They also have a full bar menu, including a number of local wines and beers.

We began with Smoked Cod Croquettes ($6) with Saffron Aioli, which resembled small donut holes. They had moist centers, with a strong smoky flavor and plenty of sweet cod. Very tasty, I could have easily popped a half-dozen more of them into my mouth.

Next up, was the Bufala Mozzarella ($16) with pear, rosemary oil, pinenuts and honey atop crostini. These flavors and textures worked very well together, from the creamy mozzarella to the sweet honey. The moist pear slices added both to the taste and mouthfeel of the dish. Another winner of a plate, and I expect the other mozzarella dishes would be equally as delicious.

A larger dish was the Chorizo ($19) with manchego rice, poached egg, salsa verde and dried black olive. This was a superb dish, another harmonious blend of flavors and textures. The meaty chorizo was savory with nice spices, though without much heat, and the manchego rice was more like a creamy risotto, enhanced by the gooey egg yolk. Two people can easily share this dish, though you might fight over who gets the last forkfuls of rice.

We also ordered a side of Spicy Spanish fries ($9) with chorizo and manchego, and the first time the dish came to our table, the chorizo was cold to the touch. I asked the cook about it, who immediately took the dish back, throwing it away, and prepared a new dish for us. It was a very good dish, with crispy fries and plenty of toppings.

I ended the meal with a Cream Soda Float, with vanilla soft serve. If you are used to U.S. cream soda, you might be surprised to learn that Canadian cream soda is often pink in color, and can have more of a red fruit taste. There was lots of ice cream in the glass, and I enjoyed the different flavor of the cream soda. And I'll admit I didn't know Canadian cream soda was different when I ordered it, but my dining companion did know that fact.

Overall, the service was very good, with the cooks sometimes serving us our food as we were sitting in front of the open kitchen. I very much enjoyed all of the food, which evidenced compelling blends of different tastes and textures. Though it is not inexpensive, you are getting high quality food so the prices are not outrageous. Plus, it has a fun vibe, definitely avoiding pretension. I would return and recommend that other visitors to Toronto check it out.

One of the restaurant walls has the above picture, which may cause you make a double take. Yes, this is a fun place.

Brick Street Bakery & SOMA: Delights of the Distillery District

With only a short time to explore Toronto, I needed to be very selective as to my destinations.  I knew that I had to visit the Ontario Spring Water Sake Company, located in the Distillery Historic District. This district consists of restored Victorian Industrial buildings, with restaurants, art galleries, fashion shops, cafes, jewelry stories, theaters and more.  The streets also have some intriguing artwork, including some large and fascinating metal sculptures.  While waiting for the sake brewery to open, I wandered through the area, sampling a few of the district's delights.

The Brick Street Bakery uses many local, natural ingredients, producing a variety of breads, cookies, pastries, baked goods, pies, sandwiches and much more. Everything looked very appealing, and I bought an assorted bag of pastries, from Eccles cakes to croissants. An Eccles cake is a British pastry, a flaky cake stuffed with currants.  Everything I tasted was fresh and delicious, most items costing about $2-$3.

Various tarts, from chocolate to lemon.

A line-up of fresh loaves of bread, from Basil Parsley Sourdough to Corn Bread.

Cookies, including Butter Shortbread, Oatmeal and Eccles.

Overall, I was very pleased with the quality and diversity of the products, and I would return again. The croissant and brioche was both light and fresh, and especially good.

Another compelling destination is SOMA Chocolate, an artisan chocolate making shop which produces small batches from the cacoa bean. They use mostly Fair Trade and organic ingredients, and make a variety of products, including hot chocolate, chocolate bars, truffles, pralines, caramels, cookies, gelato, and more.

There are large glassed-in areas where you can watch them producing chocolate, though they were not making any chocolate at the time I visited.

These are but some of the individual chocolates available, and there are plenty of chocolate bars also available, from milk chocolate to dark chocolate, including chocolates of various origins.

I decided to try some of their hot chocolate, available as One Short Intense Shot, a Mug with Steamed Milk or a Mug with Hot Water. I got two types, the Spicy Mayan and Classic Dark Side, in the One Short Intense Shot size, $3.50 each.  Though both look alike, they are certainly different in taste, despite some similarities. Both are thick and rich, coating your throat and mouth with velvety chocolate. The flavors are very intense, with the Mayan having an intriguing spicy blend with hints of heat.  Out of the two, the Classic Dark most appealed to me, and due to its rich intensity, you really don't need more than a small cup. Definitely one of the best hot chocolates I have tasted in a long time and highly recommended.

I also had a small cup of Thai Coconut Sorbetto, which was smooth and creamy, with an intense coconut flavor.  Intensity of flavor seems to be a common denominator for SOMA's products, and that flavor seems natural and not artificial. Prices might be considered high, but then you are also receiving high quality products, made from top notch ingredients, so you should expect to pay more. To me, the items are worth the price as they deliver the taste you will crave. This should be a must-visit destination if you visit Toronto.

The Cookbook Store: Toronto

Why isn't there an independent bookstore in the Boston area dedicated to food and drink? I think that is a gap which a clever, food-loving entrepreneur could fill. There is Stir, but its selection is relatively small and it is more dedicated to being a demonstration kitchen. The major chains all have food & drink sections but they are not independent and usually lack the more esoteric titles.  Boston needs a specialized food & drink bookstore with a significant inventory of both new, esoteric and used titles.

The closest such bookstore is probably Rabelais in Portland, Maine, a worthy destination for a day trip. Other cities around the country have excellent food & drink book stores, such as Omnivore Books in San Francisco, California. Whenever I travel, I seek out such stores, if they exist in the city I am visiting.  Most recently, I had the opportunity to visit The Cookbook Store in Toronto. Located on Yonge Street, at the intersection of Yorkville Avenue, it is easy to find, and there is a parking lot nearby.

The Cookbook Store has been around for over 25 years, and the store manager, Alison Fryer, has been there from the beginning. It is a small store, but there are thousands of books lining the shelves, separated into various categories, from International to Vegetarian. Essentially, all of the books appear to be new and in print, and include a number of more esoteric titles.  You will also find books by Canadian authors and publishers that you won't find in the U.S., such as the fascinating Taste Buds and Molecules by Francois Chartier. Unfortunately, they do not carry used or antiquated books, which would make it an even better store.

The books are well organized and neat, so it is easy to peruse the shelves and you could easily spend a few hours checking out all the available titles. There are even a few chairs where you can sit as you skim through the various cookbooks and other food-related titles. The store also runs many different events, hosting numerous authors and famous culinary professionals, as well as running demonstrations and seminars. I am sure this is a very popular destination with local food lovers, and it is good that the locals are supportive of this independent shop.

Overall, I enjoyed the store and wished I could have spent more time perusing the titles. I purchased a couple interesting books, which are not readily available in the U.S. As I mentioned earlier, my only minor complaint is that the store does not carry used or antiquated books like Rabelais and Omnivore Books. If you visit Toronto, stop by the store and find something new to read and enjoy.

Ontario Spring Water Sake Company

Sake lovers on the East Coast and in Eastern Canada should be happy. 

The Ontario Spring Water Sake Company is now open, located in downtown Toronto's Distillery Historic District. The brewery includes a retail store and tasting bar, using the Izumi brand name (Japanese term for "spring water"). All of their sake will be Junmai, meaning that it is premium sake, produced from only four ingredients: rice, water, yeast and koji-kin. They will also produce numerous Nama, unpasteurized, sakes. 

Their website indicates that some of their products will include: Junmai Nama, Draft Junmai, Genshu Nama, Arabashiri, and Kassei-Nigori.  They will be available in different formats, including 300 ml bottles, 1.8 liter bottles, or only by the glass. It does not appear, based on the website, that they sell 720ml bottles.  They will also sell Izumi branded ceramicware, glassware, clothing and accessories but none are currently visible on their site.  Plus, you can purchase kasu, sake lees, which can be used in cooking. 

I plan to visit the brewery in mid-May when I spend a couple days in Toronto and I am very excited to taste their various sakes.  You can be sure that I will report back upon my return.

Ontario Spring Water Sake Company
55 Mill Street, Building 4
Toronto ON Canada M5A 3C4
(416) 365-SAKE (7253)