Friday, August 30, 2019

Japanese Sake in a Juice Box! Nihon Sakari Onikoroshi Futsushu

Japanese Sake in a Juice Box! And yes, there is a Straw too.

The Japanese aren't hung up over packaging for Sake, and Tetra Paks are simply one option for producers. Plus, Sake often comes in a single-serving size, 180ml, which is traditionally known as an ichigo or just go. A traditional Sake bottle holds 720ml, or four go, and is called a yongobin.

As far back as 2009, I've been extolling the virtues of wine in a Tetra Pak, though it was rare to see any with a straw. Tetra Paks are better for the environment in a number of ways, making it a more sustainable choice than a bottle. As I've stated before, "Tetra Pak cartons use 54% less energy, create 80% less greenhouse gasses, produce 60% less solid waste volume and also have 92% less package weight, compared to a 750ml glass wine bottle." In addition, they're portable and convenient, not requiring a corkscrew. You can take them to the beach, on a camping trip, on a boat, and much more without the worries of glass.

Some people are dismissive of Tetra Paks yet their advantages cannot be ignored, especially in a world where climate change is a major issue. Plus, the sheer convenience of them makes them compelling, especially during summer when many of is travel to the mountains or beaches.

The Nihon Sakari Onikoroshi Futsushu ($7.99/180ml), with a 13-14% ABV, is produced by Nihon Sakari Co., Ltd., which was established 130 years ago in 1889 as the Nishinomiya Sake Brewing Company. In 2000, they changed their name to Nihon Sakari and they have also taken back on their old slogan, "More flavorful, more beautiful." Their main headquarters is located in Nishinomiya, in the Hyogo Prefecture, an area well-known historically for Sake production.

This Sake is Futsu-shu, non-premium Sake which constitutes about 75% of all Sake production in Japan. The quality of futsu-shu can vary widely, from cheap and harsh to smooth and flavorful. This Sake is also named Onikoroshi, which is roughly translated as "demon slayer," and during the Meiji era (1868-1911), Sake that was extremely dry was commonly known as Onikoroshi.

Drinking this Sake out of a straw was fun, and I found it to be dry, with a pleasing blend of earthiness and rice flavors. It was a simple Sake, but relatively smooth and easy on the palate with a hint of bitter on the finish. Definitely food friendly, it would also be enjoyable on its own. Don't overly think it. Just drink and enjoy.

Summer isn't over yet, so pick up some of these Tetra Paks for your travels. Kanpai!

Tuesday, August 27, 2019

Casa Blanca: A Compelling Moroccan/French Bakery in Revere

My first introduction to the Casa Blanca House of Pastries was when several of my good friends brought some of their pastries to celebrate my birthday. I was thoroughly impressed with those layered French pastries, a well balanced delight of flavors and textures. They came in several different flavors, and each was compelling in its own right. I knew then that I had to check out this bakery, to find out what else they had to offer.

The Casa Blanca House of Pastries originally started as a small shop on Shirley Avenue in Revere, and eventually opened a second location in Everett. This summer, they moved their Shirley Avenue location to a larger space, at 151 VFW Parkway in Revere. Owned and operated by a family of brothers, there are both Moroccan and French influences, and they offer both savory and sweet options, from breakfast to lunch, dinner to dessert. Moroccan cuisine isn't too common in the Boston area so you'll find some more unique items here.

Their Breakfast Menu includes many of the usual dishes, from eggs to pancakes, waffles to breakfast sandwiches. There is also an option for a Moroccan Breakfast ($10.99), which includes coffee or tea, m'semen (a flatbread), baghrir (spongy pancake), harcha (semolina bread), baguette, oatmeal, hard egg, cream cheese, olive oil and honey. There are very few local bakeries where you can find those Moroccan breads and pancakes.

For Lunch or Dinner, they also sell a variety of sandwiches, from burgers to steak and cheese, from lamb kabab to falafel wrap. You'll also find salads, soups and dinner entrees, generally grilled meats or fish with rice and salad. I tried their Cheeseburger ($7.00) and Mixed Grill Dinner (chicken, lamb & ground beef-$12.99), and found them to be of average quality, nothing special. Those dishes wouldn't persuade me to return here to try other lunch or dinner options.

However, the strength of Casa Blanca lies in their baked goods, pastries and desserts. And they are well worth a visit for all of these items. Not only will they delight your palate, but they will also impress your guests at a party or celebration.

First, check out the case of their various breads, including items like m'semenbaghrir, and harcha. It would be nice if they labeled the items so you knew what they were, but the servers will freely answer your questions about all of the breads. Many will look somewhat familiar, with some items resembling Indian naan and others like a thick English muffin. They possess their own uniqueness though, and are quite delicious.

The M'semen, which is available in circular or rectangular form, is a traditional flatbread of North Africa, though sometimes it is referred to as a crepe or pancake. Its name derives from a Berber word meaning "well baked" or "well kneaded" and it is made so that it possesses about eight or so layers. I found it to be buttery and flavorful, flaky and soft, with plenty of internal layers. It is thicker and larger than a naan. It is an excellent bread for dipping into various sauces, and I've even used it to make a tasty meatball sandwich. On the menu it's listed as Moroccan Flat Bread ($1.75) and it is a very good value too.

This item is similar in some respects to a croissant, and was filled with melted cheese. Again, it was flaky and flavorful, thicker than a typical croissant, and filled with plenty of savory cheese.

They sell a variety of the usual baked goods too, from doughnuts to muffins, danish to croissants. Their Cinnamon Rolls ($2) were amazing, with a soft and flaky roll, garnished with just the right amount of cinnamon and glaze. They were one of the best cinnamon rolls I've enjoyed in quite some time. It was the late afternoon when I purchased these cinnamon rolls, and I suspected they had been made early that morning, for their breakfast crowd. However, they seemed as fresh as if they had just been made. Highly recommended.


Other cases are filled with a variety of pastries, including Napoleon, Eclair, Tartlet, Cannolli, Carrot Cake, and others, generally priced $2.50-$2.99. They are visually appealing and you'll probably have difficulty choosing what you want. I don't think you'll go wrong though whatever your choice.


These French Pastries ($2.99), from Chocolate to Caramel, are layered beauties, with rich and creamy flavors. They aren't heavy, so you'll probably be able to finish one on your own. They are also available in plenty of other flavors, including Strawberry, Mango, Lemon, Moka Coffee, Black Forest and more.

I highly recommend you visit Casa Blanca House of Pastries for their breads, baked goods and pastries. They are well-made and delicious, reasonably priced and diverse. Their bakers and pastry chefs are obviously well skilled and it's also great to be able to find some of their Moroccan specialities which are difficult to find elsewhere. I know I'll be returning there again soon, to enjoy some of the items I've previously enjoyed, and to try some new ones too.

Monday, August 26, 2019

Rant: National Recognition Yet Uneven Service

Last week, I stopped for a quick bite and a glass of wine at a Boston restaurant which has received national attention this year for their wine program. This was actually my first visit, which was long overdue, to this spot. The food was delicious and the wine list was impressive but the lackluster service was a fail.

Awards and accolades aren't a guarantee that you'll have a positive restaurant experience.

I sat at the bar and during the time I was there, I was able to observe and compare the actions of two different servers, the one who served me and another who later served others at the bar. There was an obvious and significant difference in the attitudes and actions of the two servers. One well represented the restaurant and its concept, while the other failed as an advocate, evidencing a lack of passion.

A food menu and wine list were placed in front of me without real comment. Then, my server left to let me peruse the two menus. When the other server tended to his guests, he was much more communicative. First, he explained their wine program, noting some of the unique aspects of it. Second, he also detailed the day's food specials, which weren't listed on the menu.

My server didn't mention either of these items to me. He left me in the dark, limiting my choices because of my ignorance. He did the bare minimum, failing to rise to the occasion like the second server.

My experience would have been different, and more positive, if I had the second server. I might also have chosen different food and wine, based on that new information. When you have a more unique wine program, you need to ensure that your customers understand it. And that means your servers need to be proactive, to inform customers about it and not put the burden on the customer to have to ask about it. The second server did an excellent and seamless job of discussing the wine list and food specials. You felt his passion. And that is what will lead to positive reviews and bring in more customers.

Despite my experience, I'll likely return to the restaurant, hoping my experience was more an aberration.

Tuesday, August 20, 2019

Westmount Winery: Pinot Gris to Pinot Noir Rosé

"Westmount embodies the spirit of adventure and exploration."
--Westmount Wine website

The delight of Oregon wine! Pinot is King, especially in the Willamette Valley, but other grapes grow well in different regions of Oregon. With the heat of the summer, it's a great time to explore the White and Rosé wines of Oregon, such as those of Westmount Wine. I received a couple media samples of their wines, which were both delicious and refreshing.

Westmount Wine Company, which falls under the parent company NW Wine Co., was founded by four people, including Danielle Andrus Montalieu and John Niemeyer. The third founder was Laurent Montalieu, who acts as the Executive Winemaker. He studied agricultural engineering at the Institute of Oenology in Bordeaux, moving to Oregon in 1987, eventually becoming a partner and winemaker at the famed WillaKenzie Estate. The fourth founder was Robert Moshier, who has a degree in Production and Operations Management. He is also a wine lover, as well as an avid climber and mountaineer.

"The Westmount winemaking philosophy is to maintain the personality of the vineyard while allowing the grapes to develop into the wine they were meant to be.”
Anne Sery, Winemaker

Westmount Wine has over 100 acres planted with grapes, primarily Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, with some Chardonnay. As they are outdoors people, it was only natural for them to produce wine in cans as well, something which is much easier to carry and transport in the wilderness (or beach) rather than glass bottles.

The 2018 Westmount Pinot Noir Rosé ($20), with a 12.9% ABV, possessed a medium pink color and an alluring nose of fresh red fruits with a hint of tropical fruit. On the palate, it was dry, crisp and fresh, with bright strawberry and watermelon, and subtle hints of more tropical fruits and citrus. A tasty, refreshing and well-balanced wine, it is excellent on its own though is also very food friendly.

The 2017 Westmount Pinot Gris ($20), with a 13.1% ABV, was equally as delicious. A compelling nose of stone fruit with a hint of spice. On the palate, it is fresh and crisp, bright and round, with tasty flavors of pear, apple, and a subtle spice note and hints of a floral element. Well balanced, with a fairly long and pleasing finish. Enjoyable on its own or paired with food, from salads to seafood.

Both of these wines are easy drinking, perfect for the summer, but they aren't simple. There is sufficient complexity for the price, and they'll provide much pleasure as well.

Monday, August 19, 2019

Rant: Boston Needs Vampires!

There seems to be only a single restaurant in the Boston area that serves Vampires. With all of the restaurants in this area serving Mexican cuisine, you'd think there might be more Vampires available. Unfortunately that isn't the case and it should change. Bring on more Vampiros!

"An order of Vampiros, a thinly sliced mini-steak snuggled in a corn tortilla is a must."
--Del Rio News-Herald Mundo Latino (TX), September 5, 1993

Vampiros resemble a type of open-faced taco, and basically are composed of a grilled corn tortilla which is topped by melted cheese, carne asada, and other varied toppings. Check out the recent article, Interview With the Vampiro by Dylan James Ho, for an excellent introduction to this intriguing dish. In the U.S., Vampiros have been around for at least about thirty years, and the above newspaper quote was the oldest reference I found.

"Vampiros involves white cheese melted on corn tortillas and sprinkled with bits of carne asada, like a beefed-up quesadilla."
--The Los Angeles Times, January 26, 1995

It certainly doesn't seem difficult to create Vampiros so why are they so rare in the Boston area? The only restaurant I've found that serves them is the Yard House, under the name of Vampire Tacos. Their website states, "Vampire Style" is a street taco wrapped in a grilled, crispy cheese-crusted flour tortilla shell." Their recipes is made with carnitas, bacon chorizo, chipotle, cumin crema, guacamole, roasted garlic, and cilantro. Does anyone else know of another Boston area restaurant serving Vampiros?

"That includes the Vampiro, which brings a grilled corn tortilla heaped with carne asada or pastor topped with gooey, melted Monterey Jack cheese, guacamole, sweet caramelized onions, and crisp shredded lettuce."
--Arizona Republic, July 22, 2011

Why is Boston so behind on Vampiros? For at least 30 years, they've been available from Texas to California, and currently seem to be huge in Los Angeles. Why does it take so long for some trends to travel here? It seems like it would be an excellent opportunity for a local chef to present Vampiros to Bostonians. So who will step forward and offer this "undead" Mexican dish to their diners?