Pork, eggs, mushrooms, and vegetables, all wrapped up in a small, thin pancake, and often spread with or dipped in Hoisin sauce. It's commonly known as
Moo Shu Pork, although it's also known by a number of variant spellings, including
Mu Shu Pork, Moo Shi Pork, Mu Xu Pork, and
Mù Xū Ròu. It can now be found in many different Chinese restaurants across the U.S. It's said to originally be a dish from
Northern China, possibly from the province of
Shandong.
However, when did this dish first appear in the U.S.?
Most sources claim that Moo Shu Pork first appeared in U.S. restaurants during the second half of the 1960s, however, my own research shows it appeared at least 10 years earlier, at least as far back as 1955. And it's even possible it actually first arrived in the late 1940s.
The first mention of something similarly named to Moo Shu Pork occurred in 1928. The
Brooklyn Eagle (NY), February 8, 1928, discussed
The Oriental Restaurant, located at 4-6 Pell Street, and noted that, “
Adventurers try Moo Char Shu (Pork).” The
Brooklyn Eagle (NY), February 22, 1928, then explained this dish, in discussing
Hang Far Loo, located at 23 Pell Street. It was said, “
Moo Char Shu is roast loin of pork, with mushrooms.” Although it has some similar ingredients to Moo Shu Pork, it isn't the same dish.
After World War II, restaurants serving Mandarin/Northern Chinese cuisine started to slowly appear across the U.S., and that is when the possibility of Moo Shu Pork appearing was most probable.
One of the first Northern Chinese restaurants was The Peking Restaurant, in Washington, D.C., which opened in 1947. And the first newspaper reference I found to Moo Shi Pork involved The Peking Restaurant. The Evening Star (D.C.), February 9, 1955, mentioned that the Peking Restaurant was the only "true northern-style kitchen in town." It then continued that they served, “Moo Shi Pork (shredded meat, black mushrooms, Chinese cabbage, bamboo shoots, green onion!) with the PEKING’S famous steamed pancakes.” How to eat dish was also mentioned. “He centers the meat in your pancake, and with a deft turn of the wrist it’s rolled up in a dainty food bundle. And you hoist it up, up for that first thrilling bite.”
So, in 1955, we have a definite reference to the presence of Moo Shi Pork, about 10 years earlier than most other sources claim. However, this dish might have even been on the initial menu for The Peking back in 1947. The 1955 reference doesn't state this is a brand new dish at the restaurant and refers to their "
famous steamed pancakes." It's certainly plausible that The Peking had been serving this dish since its opening, although I haven't been able to confirm it.
In 1958, the famed
Joyce Chen opened her first restaurant, the
Joyce Chen Restaurant, in Cambridge, Massachusetts, and it included many Mandarin items. Her
menu listed
Moo Shi Pork ($2.95). “
The classic Mandarin dish prepared with shredded pork, eggs, and Chinese vegetables. Served with six Mandarin pancakes.” Extra pancakes cost 10 cents. And four years later, Chen would become start to become the leader in popularizing this dish across the country.
The
Herald-News (NJ), August 25, 1961, ran a brief advertisement for
New China Inn, Inc., at 2 Park Avenue, Rutherford, and mentioned they served “
Moo Shu Pork.”
Then, in 1962, Joyce Chen published her first cookbook,
Joyce Chen Cook Book (J.B. Lippincott Co., Philadelphia & New York). The book included a recipe for “
Mandarin Moo Shi Pork” and there was another section “
How To Make Mandarin Pancakes And Eat In Proper Way.” This was probably the first U.S. cookbook to present this recipe. This became a very popular cookbook, and certainly helped to popularize this dish.
The
Los Angeles Times, (CA), September 23, 1964, noted that the Peking Restaurant in Inglewood served, “
Moo Shu, pork nested in fluffed eggs.” And the
Tribune (IL), December 13, 1964, in a brief ad for the
Dragon Inn, mentioned they served Moo Shu Pork. For information was provided in the
Chicago Tribune (IL), June 18, 1965, which stated that the new Dragon Inn offered “
moo-shu pork, thinly sliced and cooked with eggs, bamboo shoots and vegetables, served with gossamer thin pancakes.” Other restaurants, including in New York City, also started offering Moo Shi Pork.
Another huge boost for Moo Shi Pork came in 1967. The
Boston Globe (MA), May 7, 1967, provided Joyce Chen's recipe for
Mandarin Pancakes, noting that she would demonstrate this recipe on her television cooking show. The article stated, “T
he Mandarin thin pancake is one of the popular foods in Peking. It is served with famous Peking Duck and some meat, egg and some vegetables dishes such as Moo Shi Pork.” The information and recipe came from Chen's cookbook.
A week later, the Boston Globe (MA), May 14, 1967, then provided Joyce Chen's recipe for Moo-Shi Pork, again taken from her cookbook and also set to be demonstrated during her cooking show. The article stated, “Moo-shi pork is a famous dish in Peking. The name comes from the small pieces of egg in this dish which look like Moo-shi flowers, tiny yellow flowers with a sweet fragrance. Traditionally, Moo-shi pork is served with Mandarin pancakes and, since the pancake is dry, we need a soup to accompany it.” The ingredients for Moo Shi Pork included shredded lean pork (or instead use chicken, seafood or beef), dried Chinese wood ears (black fungus), dried golden needles (tiger lily), dry Sherry, soy sauce, MSG, corn starch, cooking oil, ginger root, scallion, salt, and eggs. “When Moo-shi pork is served at the restaurants it is enriched by adding mushrooms, bamboo shoots and cabbage.”
In 1968, Joyce Chen's recipe for Moo Shi Pork, was republished in several newspapers across the country, from Georgia to California. In addition, her cooking show about Moo Shi Pork was replayed numerous times through 1971, all across the country, exposing many people to this dish. During those years, over 95% of the newspaper references to Moo Shi Pork were connected to Joyce Chen. It's clear she played a dominant role in popularizing this dish across the country.
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In the U.S., Moo Shi Pork extends back at least to 1955, to Washington, D.C., about 10 years earlier than many other sources have claimed, although there's a good possibility that it might even extend back to 1947. In 1958, the dish was served at Joyce Chen's restaurant in Cambridge, MA, and she would spearhead efforts to popularize this dish, from her cookbook in 1962 to her television cooking show from 1967-1971.
What's your favorite restaurant for Moo Shi Pork?
