Rant: Eat More Seafood, Especially Local

Listen up! I have said it before but I am not sure anyone was listening. The latest statistics are a bit troubling so it needs to be said once again. We must all pay attention and do a couple of simple things, which will not only benefit your individual health (and pleasure), but will also help many small businesses as well as the country's overall economic welfare. All very worthy goals, and all easily accomplished.

So follow this advice: Eat More Seafood, Especially Local.

Back in March 2010, I exhorted people to Eat More Fish, especially because of its significant health benefits. "Research has been providing growing evidence of the health benefits of fish, for the heart, brain, and bones as well as against cancers and inflammatory diseases. But some of the strongest evidence is for its significant benefits to preventing heart disease." Fish is one of the healthiest foods you can consume and adding more fish to your diet is the logical choice.

Thus, I was disturbed when I read a recent post on the iPura Food Safety blog which discussed the findings of the National Oceanic & Atmospheric Administration's (NOAA) in their annual report, Fisheries Of The United States 2011, Their statistics and conclusions appear to demonstrate that not enough people are following the basic advice I listed above. So what is the problem?

The report indicated that "seafood landings" (basically how much seafood is caught or harvested) reached a "17-year high while also increasing in value by over 3/4 of a billion dollars." That sounds like good news and seems hopeful that more Americans are eating seafood but it is not the case. All of the increases were offset by the fact that the U.S. exported far more seafood that previous years. Thus, annual seafood consumption last year actually dropped to 15 pounds per person, less than the 15.8 pounds in 2010, almost a decrease of an entire pound.

Despite that decrease, the U.S. has become the world's second largest consumer of seafood, with China still in first place while Japan dropped from its former spot at second place. That still doesn't mean though that U.S. consumers are eating enough seafood. Seafood consumption should be increasing, not decreasing, especially considering the severity of heart-related disorders in the U.S. Seafood has been empirically proven to decrease heart disease and is essential to a proper diet. And eating fish is certainly one of the easiest ways to get healthy.

What was even more disturbing in the report was that the U.S. now imports 91% of their seafood, up 5% from 2010! Less than 10% of the seafood we consume is from our own country. That seems almost unbelievable. Obviously we need to support our local fisheries, which helps local economies as well as the overall economic condition of the country. Yes, we still need to make sure local fisheries catch only sustainable seafood but that still means there are plenty of options to support local fisheries. People complain about our dependence on foreign oil, but what about our dependence on foreign seafood? Start supporting local fishermen!

Besides the above reasons for eating more seafood, another compelling reason is the taste. Seafood is delicious! It is diverse in its flavor profiles so there should be something to cater to all preferences. Even if you dislike shellfish, then maybe you will like a flaky white fish or a richer salmon. Fish can be prepared in a myriad of methods, from raw to baked, fried to grilled. Add it to soups or risottos, casseroles or sauces. Healthy, delicious and good for the economy. A trio of great reasons to eat more seafood.

So what are you waiting for? Get out there and eat more seafood, especially local.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently. **********************************************************
1) As temperatures get nippy, the Boston Harbor Hotel presents an opportunity to give back while getting toasty at a Hot Pink afternoon tea – all to benefit the cause of finding a cure for breast cancer.

Throughout the month of October in Rowes Wharf Sea Grille, sip for a cause with this “pink” inspired Rosé Afternoon Tea featuring a glass of Poggio al Tesoro Cassiopea Rosé rimmed with pink sugar, decorative pastries, a selection of finger sandwiches, scones, tea breads and Devonshire cream and preserves, all designed by Executive Chef Daniel Bruce and Pastry Chef Bill Romiza.

It costs $39 per person and 10% of proceeds will benefit The Breast Cancer Research Foundation. Afternoon tea is offered daily from 2:30 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. and Hot Pink Tea will be available October 1-25. For reservations, please call Rowes Wharf Sea Grille at 617-856-7744.

A proud supporter of the Breast Cancer Research Foundation’s mission, the hotel is also honored to host this year’s Boston Hot Pink Luncheon and Symposium on Friday, October 19 in conjunction with the Breast Cancer Research Foundation. Honorary chairs for this event include Tory Burch and Nancy Kelleher.

The Boston Harbor Hotel continues its month-long efforts for Breast Cancer Awareness by fundraising and walking as Team Harbor Hope in the local American Cancer Society Making Strides Against Breast Cancer event on Sunday, October 14.

2) On Saturday, October 6, from 11am-5pm, the Concord Cheese Shop is rolling back cheese prices to 1967. The shop opened its doors in 1967 and is celebrating their 45th Anniversary this year. More than 20 domestic and imported cheeses will be reduced in price to what they sold for in 1967.

Brie $2.49/lb
Colby Longhorn 2.49/lb
Camembert 2.99/lb.
Havarti (dill, herb & caraway) 2.99/lb
Port Salut 2.99/lb
Swedish Fontina 2.99/lb
Gouda 2.99/lb
Jarlsberg 2.99/lb
NY State White Cheddar 2.99/lb
Port Wine Logs 3.49/lb
Stilton 3.99/lb

Top cracker/wafer brands will be sold for $1.99 (limit 3 boxes), and bottles of Rene’ Barbier wine will be sold for $3.99 (limit one case).

3) On October 17, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods’ own Sandy Block and Tina Silverberg will host a four-plus-course wine dinner at the Park Square location. Each course will feature Legal Sea Foods’ signature cuisine complemented by wines from South Africa.

The Menu:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Smoked Salmon Napoleon, Toast Points, Dill Aioli
Stuffed Mini Portobello Mushrooms
Lobster Fritter, Chipotle Aioli*
Raats Family Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, 2008
FIRST COURSE
Meyer Lemon Sole Rollatini (Maryland Crab Mousse, Baby Mache and Yuzu Butter Sauce)
DeMorgenzon Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, 2010
Bartinney Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, 2010
SECOND COURSE
Oven Roasted Spiced Ostrich (Pearl Potatoes and Mushroom Ragoût)
Rudi Schultz Syrah, Stellenbosch, 2007
Kanonkop Pinotage, Stellenbosch, 2009
THIRD COURSE
Mesquite Grilled Herbed Lamp Chop (Sweet Potato Pudding and Wilted Red Chard)
Raats Family Cabernet Franc, Stellenbosch, 2009
DeToren “Fusion V,” Stellenbosch, 2009
DESSERT COURSE
Peach Crème Brûlée
Klein Constantia “Vin de Constance,” Constantia, 2006

Cost: $75 per person (excludes tax and gratuity)
Reservations required by calling: 617-530-9397

4) Beginning Saturday, October 27, The Wine ConneXtion, will celebrate its 3rd Anniversary as it dedicates its days to pouring the finest wines at the lowest prices with the “Big Three” complimentary tasting series featuring the “Third Annual Fall Grand Tasting,” “Magnificent Meritages” and “90 Points and Above.”

On Saturday, October 27 from 12pm-5pm, the Wine ConneXtion will kick-off the series with its “Third Annual Fall Grand Tasting.” Guests are invited to taste a wide selection of new wines while perusing more than 50 exclusive, hand-selected bottles from all over the world as they enjoy culinary treats from Chama Grill.

Guests are then invited on Saturday, November 3 from 1pm-5pm to expand their wine knowledge with a tasting dedicated to “Magnificent Meritages.” Guests will learn about the elusive category of exceptional American wines blended in the Bordeaux tradition. These wines go through a rigorous screening process just to be awarded the name Meritage and are a treat to taste.

Finally, on Saturday, November 10 from 1pm-5pm guests are invited to a tasting worth the wait as they sip and sample some of the industry’s highest rated wines at “90 Points and Above.” Only a handful of wines ever earn the 90+ point distinction from the top wine raters including: Wine Enthusiast, Wine Spectator, Wine Advocate and Robert Parker, and this is the time to taste them.

All tasting are complimentary and open to the public. Must be 21+.

5) Love the traditional flavors of fall in New England but craving Chinese food? China Blossom Restaurant & Lounge, located in North Andover, has combined the two in a simple, savory dish with its new Pumpkin Dumplings. Take the ever-popular pumpkin, combine it with a Chinese cuisine staple, and the result is a perfect fall dish. These dumplings are easy enough to whip up on a weeknight but fancy enough to serve at a special event or fall holiday.

For $7.25, for 12 dumplings, guests can satisfy their fall flavor cravings at China Blossom, or they can try this recipe at home.

Pumpkin Dumplings Recipe:
Ingredients:
1 egg
1 cup pumpkin puree (canned)
1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
Directions:
Mix the egg and pumpkin puree in a bowl. Beat in the flour, a little at a time, until the dough is smooth and elastic. Add nutmeg and stir to incorporate.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Place several tablespoons of the dough on top of a cutting board and spread the dough until it is 1/8 of an inch thick. Slice off ¼-inch-thick and 3-inch-long strips and drop into the water. The dumplings will take shape as they hit the water.
When the dumplings rise to the surface, cook another minute and then remove them with a slotted spoon and drop them into a bowl of ice water, then drain.
Before serving, sauté dumplings in butter and season with salt and pepper. Serves 4

6) Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar will celebrate the centuries-old art of wine blending with a unique event to be held on October 19 at 6:30pm at the Boston location. “Winemaker for a Night" will offer Fleming's guests an opportunity to create their own personally blended wines using premium varietals from Raymond Vineyards, the award-winning winery located in Rutherford, Napa Valley.

The event includes wine blending instruction and activities as well as generous food selections from Fleming’s Small Plates and Bar la Carte menus served throughout the evening. It is priced at $65 per guest.

"Winemaker for a Night" will be a relaxed and entertaining event with no special wine knowledge required and a lively program of activities including:
o An exclusive video introduction to blending from Jean-Charles Boisset, Proprietor of Boisset Family Estates, the dynamic wine world visionary behind the transformation of Raymond Vineyards, and Stephanie Putnam, Raymond’s Winemaker.
o A rare tasting of barrel samples of three single varietals by Raymond Vineyards: Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, California Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 and Napa Valley Merlot 2011.
o A hands-on blending session using Raymond Vineyards varietals, with personal coaching from the Wine Manager at each Fleming's location.

Wine blends have never been more popular and for good reason – it allows winemakers to create layers of flavors and aromas that make the sum greater than its parts. "Blending is the most important and creative action that any winemaker engages in, and for me it's the most exciting part of the winemaking process," said Maeve Pesquera, Fleming's Director of Wine. “Our “Winemaker for a Night” event will allow our guests to experience first hand the choices and outcomes that a winemaker encounters when blending a wine from different grape varietals and vineyard sources.”

Post 390: Pigs, Bourbon & Beer

Heritage Pork? Check! Bourbon? Check! Beer? Well.....

Each month, Chef Eric Brennan of Post 390 hosts a special Farm to Post dinner. This is a three-course Prix Fixe menu, offered all month, which showcases local ingredients from one specific farm, fishery or similar producer. I was invited as a media guest to a special event to check out their latest menu, a "Pig Out" showcasing the products of Brambly Farms. I did not see a menu beforehand so it was all going to be a surprise for me.

The new Brambly Farms "Farm to Post" Menu offers 3 courses for $48, or $65 with wine pairings. You get a choice for each course from 2 different selections for Appetizer, Entree and Dessert. The special event I attended was different from the usual Farm to Post menu, though some of the same dishes and items are on both menus.

This was my first time dining at Post 390 and I was impressed with its decor and ambiance. The first floor is their Tavern, which has a more casual menu and feel while the second floor is the main dining room, with an open kitchen, private dining areas, and more. The upstairs area is more elegant, a great place for a romantic date or a business dinner.

I enjoy open kitchens, which I have always said show confidence in the cooking staff.

The dinner event presented the bounty of Brambly Farms, located in Norfolk, and the owners, Ted and Sandra O'Harte, were present at the dinner. They operate a pasture raised farm and raise 5 heritage breeds of pig, including Berkshire, Large Blacks, Tamworth, Red Wattle, and Gloucestershire Old Spots (like Dalmatians with lots of spots). They have maybe 100-150 pigs on their farm, and they also raise chickens and have had other animals as well at times, though some were killed by fisher cats.

Prior to the dinner, we watched a brief video about the farm, plenty of photos of the operation and animals. It is worthwhile to understand where your food comes from and knowing the pork was from a local farm is another benefit. The O'Hartes, who seemed very personable and down to earth, also answered our questions during the course of the dinner. Our meal featured the meat from Berkshire and Large Blacks pigs, as well as eggs from their chickens.

Initially, as we mingled before the dinner began, there were some passed hors d'oeuvres, including a Pate and a Lobster BLT (with a nice chunk of fried lobster). In addition, we began with a delicious cocktail, the Peach n' Pig Bacon Infused, which is made with house-smoked Bulleit Bourbon, Punt E Mes, homemade peach simple syrup, homemade bitters, and a grilled peach garnish. It was smoky with a mild sweetness and nice vanilla and peach flavors. It was a well balanced drink and I ended up drinking them throughout the meal as its flavors went well with our various pork dishes.

After that cocktail, the rest of the courses were paired with various beers, mostly local, and though I tasted all of the beers, none of them really appealed to me. The beers included: Pretty Things Jack D'Or, High & Might Purity of Essence, Jack's Abby Smoke & Dagger, Berkshire Brewing Co. Octoberfest and North Coast Old Rasputin. The beer lovers at the table all seemed to enjoy the pairings and I do give them credit for using mostly local brews.

Our first course was Egg Drop Soup with Crab and a Pork & Florida shrimp potsticker (which is on the the current Farm To Post menu). The soup, which uses farm eggs from Brambly, is very flavorful, better than many of the egg drop soups you find at inexpensive Chinese restaurants. The potsticker sits atop charred scallion aoili with aged mushroom soy sauce. The shrimp is Fedexed directly from a fisherman in Florida, and is never frozen, which is certainly very unusual and compelling. A nice, firm pasta held a burst of shrimp flavor with hints of pork. A tasty addition to this Asian inspired dish.

Next up was the Roast Thai Cured Pork Belly with Mango, Jicama and Scituate Lobster (which is on the the current Farm To Post menu). The pork belly was prepared in a similar manner to Pekin duck, marinated and later hung to dry. A nice blend of Asian spices complemented the juicy, tender pork. Heritage pork has such flavor that standard pork can never match. There was plenty of sweet lobster in the crisp, acidic and refreshing mango and jicama salad.

The Maple-Rosemary Bacon Wrapped Scallop came with succotash, tasso, and liquid corn on the cob. The large, tender scallops were complemented by the salty bacon as well as the sweet, buttery corn. As I have said before, I think scallops and corn is a killer combination. The tasso also added a little smoky edge to the dish.

The Grilled Spice Rubbed Pork of Loin was accompanied by a pulled pork & pear fritter with a prune plum-ginger pork jus. The fritter was absolutely killer and it is an accompaniment to one of the entrees on the current Farm To Post menu. The fritter had a delightful crisp coating with lots of moist, flavorful pork and accents of pear. I could have eaten a plate just of these fritters. The loin was also excellent, with tasty spices complementing the savory pork. But the fritter stole the show in this dish.

For dessert, we ended with Apple Pie with vanilla ice cream (which is on the the current Farm To Post menu). Though it seemed like there was no pork in this dish, not even bacon, there actually was pork fat used in the pie crust. The thin, crisp apple slice atop the ice cream was addictive and the ice cream was creamy and delicious. Though the pie was good, I think it would have been much better if served warm rather than cold. As we left, we received some chocolate covered bacon as a parting gift. Superb!

Service was excellent, and the food was impressive. It is great see to Post 390 showcasing local farmers, and exposing their customers to the local bounty. The Peach n 'Pig was a delightful choice to accompany each dish. Check out the Brambly Farms menu this month, and Post 390's future Farm to Post dinners as well. I am going to have to return now to check out their regular menu, and also see what other interesting cocktails they have concocted.

Who doesn't love pork?

Cakes for Occasions: Cocktail Cupcakes

You either have to be confident or crazy to invite me to your bakery to taste your cupcakes.

I have often ranted about the over saturation of cupcake stores, hoping for some other dessert to take the spotlight. I have complained about the large number of places that sell dry cupcakes with thick, overly sweet frosting. I have high standards and have found many popular cupcake stores to be lacking. Inviting me to check out your cupcakes is a risky endeavor.

Last week, a bakery stepped up to the plate. I was invited to check out Cupcakes After 5, "shot-size mini cupcakes inspired by classic cocktails and infused with alcohol," which are created by Cakes for Occasions in Danvers. A cupcake cocktail? Yes, I was intrigued so decided to check them out and put them to the test. I also wanted to determine whether they were confident or crazy.

Cakes for Occasions, which has been around for over 10 years, is a "nut-free, boutique-style gourmet cake and pastry shop" and their main business seems to be cake design. The owner is Kelly Delaney who was educated at the Ballymaloe Cookery School in Ireland and the Cordon Bleu in London. She began her business using a single oven in her mother's home and now employs almost 30 people and produces over 700 wedding cakes each year. Throughout the years, Kelly has received many accolades, both local and national, and currently ships her products throughout the continental U.S.

The Danvers location is fairly large and festively decorated with lots of bright colors, balloons, and party supplies. There are several glass cases of various cakes, pastries and baked goods, presenting many enticing choices. In the back, there is a large kitchen area where you can watch some of the pastry chefs preparing cakes and other delights.

Mini-Whoopie Pies! I was certainly pleased to see these in the case. They come in a variety of flavors and at only $1.25 each, I think they are fairly priced as well. I got to try a couple and they were very good, with a creamy filling and moist chocolate cake, the type of whoopie pie sure to please any dessert lover.

Some cakes, in various sizes, that were ready to be bought, from Opera Cakes to Strawberry Short Cake.

The Big Cupcake Cake, available in chocolate, vanilla or marble.

A New England Patriots helmet cake that was being created while I was at the bakery.

Some of the other enticing pastries, including European pastries and tarts, that can be found here.

Some of the pastry chefs hard at work in creating cakes and other pastries. You can watch them while you decide what pastries you want to purchase.

They produce a wide range of cupcakes, generally priced $2.25 to $2.95 each, which is better pricing than many of the gourmet cupcake stores that are charging over $3 for their cupcakes. For the political campaign season, you can see above the Elephant (Republicans) and Donkey (Democrats) cupcakes.

I was there for a special cupcake, the Cupcakes After 5, and General Manager Jennifer Brennan answered my questions about these new cupcakes. At a networking event, the owner Kelly spoke to some people from Patron Tequila, and the idea was tossed out of using tequila in desserts. This planted the seed of an idea, and they were inspired to create a more adult cupcake using various alcohols. As their bridal coordinator is also a bartender, they certainly did not lack for ideas.

The cupcakes come in two ways, as a mini-cupcake or in a plastic "shot glass." The shot glass idea is aesthetically very cool looking, but you really need a fork to eat it. The mini cupcake requires no utensils, just peel off the wrapper and eat. So you can either go for fancy or practical, dependent on your desires. The fancy might be more appropriate for a party or when you want to impress. The cupcakes come in at least 8 flavors, and they have plans to add more, including some seasonal ones. Each cupcake is essentially intended to replicate the flavors of a cocktail or alcohol, from the Kahlua Mudslide to the Mimosa.

I tasted 7 of the flavors, pictured above, which included Rum & Coke, Sam Adams Cream Stout, Champagne & Strawberries, Mimosa, Caramel Appletini, Bailey's Irish Cream, and Key Lime Mojito. For me, the taste test was a two step process, to assess them first as a cupcake and then to assess the effect of the alcohol.

All of the cupcakes passed the first test with flying colors. They were all properly moist and the frosting was light and creamy. They did not possess either of the usual two flaws. Each cupcake was very flavorful, representing the basic flavor profile of the cocktail they were trying to emulate. Frankly, they were some of the tastiest cupcakes I have had in quite a while. So, my invite to check out their cupcakes was definitely confidence on their part.  

Now on to the second test. Baking with alcohol is not an easy task, especially as you generally want a proper balance. You want to be able to taste the alcohol but you don't want it to overwhelm. You don't want too little or too much. As these cocktail cupcakes are still a new product at the bakery, they are still working on attaining that balance with all of their cupcakes.

Of the seven cupcakes I tasted, three succeeded in achieving that right balance: Rum & Coke, Sam Adams Cream Stout, and the Bailey's Irish Cream. The Rum & Coke, a vanilla cupcake soaked with Rum, topped with Coca Cola buttercream and garnished with a sugar line candy, was my favorite of the seven. Great flavors, well balanced, and addictive. The Bailey's Irish Cream, a chocolate cupcake soaked with Bailey's, filled with chocolate ganache and topped with Bailey's white chocolate buttercream, was a close second.

The other four cupcakes did not possess enough alcohol flavor, which could be due to the nature of the alcohol used. For example, the Champagne & Strawberries had delicious strawberry flavors but you really couldn't detect the Champagne. I enjoyed the taste of the Caramel Appletini, an apple cupcake soaked with vodka, filled with caramel and topped with a caramel-vodka buttercream, but the vodka didn't really come out. The lighter flavored liquors, such as vodka or sparkling wine, may not show as well in such an arena. Or maybe more needs to be added. You might instead need stronger flavored drinks, like Port or Zinfandel, to show well in cupcakes. A Port & chocolate cupcake? Port & blue cheese cupcake?

I intend to return to the bakery, to check out more of their pastries. Their cupcakes receive my recommendation, though I think they still need to work on the balance of some of their cocktail cupcakes. They mentioned that parents, picking up a child's birthday cake, may pick up some of the cocktail cupcakes for the adults at the birthday party, which sounds like an excellent idea.

Have you tasted these cocktails cupcakes? If so, what were your thoughts?

Rant: Drink More Sake Or Godzilla Will Die!

Each time you drink something other than Sake, it creates a tiny crack in Godzilla's huge heart. Collectively, the refusal to drink Sake by massive groups of people has caused significant coronary damage to the mighty Godzilla. If it continues, this gargantuan Japanese treasure could die! So please save Godzilla by drinking more Sake.

Ok, that is not really the case. Nothing is going to happen to Godzilla whether you drink Sake or not. But as today is the 35th Anniversary of Sake Day, it seemed an appropriate subject for a Rant. In all honesty, not enough people are drinking Sake and if that continues, it could become an endangered alcohol. Every year, a number of Sake breweries in Japan must shutter their doors. There is no reason why we should allow that to continue to happen.

The last two years, 2010 and 2011, have seen records exports of Sake from Japan, and the U.S. has been the largest importer. But, the amount we import is still a tiny amount. It is still very much a niche beverage which has yet to catch a widespread appeal. It seems to be growing as a category, yet very slowly. It needs a burst of growth, a viral outbreak of popularity. Sake Day is a time to showcase this great beverage, to try to promote its wonders.

The greatest enemy of Sake is ignorance. Too many people still cling to misconceptions about Sake which prevent them from drinking or buying it. Sake is far more than that cheap, hot stuff you find at some Asian restaurants. Too many people fail to understand its diversity and complexities, its ability to pair well with nearly any food. Too many distributors and wine store owners and employees know so little about Sake, and even if they possess some limited knowledge, it is often erroneous. We must shatter this ignorance.

I have written over 200 articles on Sake, trying to spread my own passion for this intriguing elixir. I have also provided information on numerous other resources where you can obtain Sake information. I teach Sake classes, hold Sake tastings, and preside at Sake dinners. If people have questions about Sake, I do my best to try to answer them. I certainly don't know everything about Sake, and I continue to learn myself. But I am very open with everything that I have learned.

Today, make a pledge to put aside your misconceptions about Sake. Make a pledge to learn more about Sake, to taste different types of Sake, to pair Sake with various foods. I think you will find Sake that you enjoy, Sake that brings you pleasure. I think the history of Sake will fascinate you.

I thank you and Godzilla thanks you too!