Poker & an Asian Beauty

If you play poker, what is your drink of choice while playing?

If I visit a casino, playing more serious poker, I generally won't drink any alcohol. However, when I play a casual game with friends, then wine and Sake are my usual drinks of choice. Every few weeks, I gather together with 8-11 friends to play poker in a casual game. Games are usually played on Friday evenings, typically lasting at least 7 hours. A fun night of camaraderie, cards and cups.

The majority of my friends drink beer and it seems as if each one drinks a different brew. A couple will partake of spirits, such as tequila or whiskey, and I will do so as well every once in awhile. My friend Adam, of Wine Zag, sometimes plays poker and he also drinks wine and Sake with me. The type of wine varies widely, reds, whites and roses, and could be from any wine region around the world. It can be a chance to explore new wines or share our favorites.

At our last game, I brought an "Asian Beauty" with me, the Toyo Bijin Junmai Ginjo Okarakuchi Sake ($35). Interestingly, though it appears most seem to interpret the phrase "Toyo Bijin" as "Asian Beauty," the word "Toyo" generally means "abundant" or "plentiful." A better translation for this Sake then might be "Abundant Beauty."

This Sake is brewed by the Sumikawa Shuzo, which was established in 1921 and is located in the Yamaguchi Prefecture. It is made with Yamada Nishiki rice, the "king" of Sake rice, which has been polished down to 55%, allowing it to qualify as a Ginjo. This is a karakuchi style, meaning it is a dry Sake, and that is reflected in its high Sake Meter Value which is +15. It also has a higher than average acidity, 1.5, which contributes to its perceived dryness.

I greatly enjoyed this Sake, finding it to be crisp, clean and smooth, with pleasant flavors of melon and Asian pear. A well balanced Sake, it is easy drinking, and would appeal to both Sake lovers and newcomers to this wondrous beverage. This would be an excellent Sake with food too, especially as it possesses a higher acidity. By the end of the evening, the bottle was empty, and I had won money, so maybe it brought me a bit of luck as well. The Toyo Bijin gets my highest recommendation.

Rant: A Wake Up Call To The Food Obsessed

It seems like a staggering statistic based on the amount of restaurants that exist in the U.S. and considering all of the supermarkets and specialty food shops that are around. There are so many thousands of food writers in the U.S. as well as entire magazines and television networks devoted to food. Food seems like an obsession in the U.S. However, if so, then why does the U.S. actually spend so little on food?

In Urner Barry's Reporter (Winter 2013), it is reported that, on average, the U.S. spends 6.7% of its income on food, which happens to be the lowest percentage of the developed and developing world. There is a list of more than 60 countries which spend a higher percentage on food than the U.S. The median income  in the U.S. is approximately $50,000 so about $3350 of that is spent on food, roughly $64 a week. That is less than $10 per day!

During the last one hundred years, Americans have been spending less and less of their income on food. In the 1930s, Americans were spending about 21% of their income on food, which declined to 17% by the 1950s. That percentage has now dropped down to less than 7%, a huge change over all that time. The Urner Barry article does not provide any possible explanation for this low figure so we can only speculate, though various other sources seem to put much of the blame over all the cheap food available.

Chain restaurants like McDonald's and an abundance of cheap, prepackaged foods make it easy and inexpensive to eat. Many people can't be bothered to spend an hour or more cooking at home. They just want the ability to quickly purchase some fast food or pop a premade dish in the oven. The problem, ignored by many of these people, is that those cheap prices can come with a heavy cost, ill health and obesity.

It would be best if many of those people who regularly patronized such chains and bought all those prepackaged foods would cook more at home, from basic ingredients. That can be done inexpensively though even if it might be a bit more expensive up front, in the end it would be less costly as their health would benefit. Convincing those people to change though is an arduous task. Looking at the bottom line is much easier for people than looking forward to the future.

Though all of that may explain why many people spend so little on food, it doesn't explain our cultural obsession with food. The reason may be is that there is a food elite, a percentage of our population which spends a far greater percentage of their income on food. They also tend to be the individuals who cook more at home, while also patronizing higher end restaurants. They also tend to be concerned more with issues such as sustainability. They are the ones who read all about food, who watch television shows about food, who write about food. I would fall into this category, as I certainly spend a higher percentage more than 7% of my income on food.

Such individuals need to properly understand the privilege they possess, the ability to be able to spend a higher percentage on food. Economically, I am strongly within the middle class and have struggled over the last few years to make ends meet. I don't consider myself wealthy by any stretch of the imagination. Of my friends who are similarly food obsessed, none of them are wealthy either. Many of them have struggled during these years of economic turmoil. We are not the 1% yet we have more disposable income than some others.

Our economic woes are nothing compared to so many others in this country. There is a wide economic gap even between the middle class and the poor. The latest figures show that 14.5% of U.S. households are food insecure, the highest total ever. In a country with so much food available, it is a travesty that so many still go hungry. It is a greater travesty that the number of hungry people continues to grow to record levels. We desperately need to help fight this massive problem.

I thus implore the food obsessed, the watchers of food shows, the readers of food blogs, those able to spend so much more money on food than many others:

Get Off Your Ass And Help The Less Fortunate! 

A new year has begun so let it begin on a positive note. Make a resolution to help the less fortunate, to feed the hungry. Skip your $5 coffee, cancel your $25 lunch, forget your $100 dinner. Do something, anything, which will make our country a better and more food secure place. Lend your support to organizations dedicated to alleviating hunger. Individually, we might only be able to make small contributions, but when added together, the impact can be great.

So what are you waiting for? Stop reading my blog and go help the food insecure!

Turner Fisheries: Gluten Free Dinner

Due to a surge in food allergies, responsible restaurants are working to ensure their patrons can safely dine, no matter what allergies they might possess. For example, celiac disease is an autoimmunue disorder, essentially an allergy to gluten though there are others, without celiac, who are also allergic to gluten. Gluten is a protein found in wheat, barley and other grains though it can also be found sometimes as a food additive. It seems to be a significant issue and dining out for such individuals can be a problem.

Fortunately, a number of local restaurants now offer gluten-free menus and a recent survey by the National Restaurant Association named Gluten Free Cuisine as one of the top ten trends for 2013. I recently dined at Turner Fisheries (as a media guest) to assess their gluten-free menu. I don't have a gluten allergy but was curious as to whether the various dishes would still possess compelling flavors, or if their gluten-free nature would diminish the taste. What would be the effect of the substituted ingredients? Someone with a gluten allergy might not be able to enjoy battered fish and chips but that doesn't mean they don't have other delicious options.

What are the differences between the Turner's regular menu and gluten-free menu? In fact, many of the dishes are similar with minor adjustments for gluten free. First, the two Soups are similar. Second, there are two less Starters, the Crispy Calamari and Jonah Crab Cake. Third, the three Salads are similar. Fourth, there is one less Starter, the Taylor Bay Scallop Meuniere. Fifth, there is one less Turner's Classics, the Baked Long-Line Scrod. Sixth, all of the Sides are similar. Seventh, only three of the six Dessert options are available gluten free, including Mocha Creme Brulee, Hot Chocolate Peppermint Semifreddo Float and Sorbet/Gelato.

As can be seen, there is little on the menu which cannot be prepared gluten-free except for the Dessert category. That might be an area where other restaurants also see a challenge and if so, it is an area where they need to create more tantalizing options. I have eaten gluten free cookies, brownies and other similar treats and if done well, they can be quite tasty and you would not even know they were gluten free.

Chef Armand Toutaint prepared a variety of seafood preparations for our dinner, showcasing just some of the possibilities of a gluten-free menu. He also came to our table to discuss the menu and answer our questions. Based on some prior research I did, there appears to be a potential issue of farmed fish being given feed that contains gluten. Some claim that such seafood can be tainted and cause problems to those with gluten allergies while others allege it is not the case. Chef Toutaint didn't know much about the issue and it might be an area that needs more study. If anyone knows more about this matter, I would like to hear about it.

The dinner began with a couple heaping platters of cracked/shucked shell fish, including Little Neck Clams, Rope-Grown Mussels, East Coast Oysters, Maine Lobster, Jonah Crab Claws, Gulf Shrimp, and Taylor Bay Scallops. A smorgasbord of simply prepared food sure to satisfy any shellfish lover, with or without gluten allergies.

Next up was a sampler of menu choices, including a Grilled Wellfleet Oyster (with a maitake mushroom riesling cream), Beet Carpaccio (with rainbow swiss chard, cider glaze, pistachio dust), Seared Diver Scallop (with a brandy black mission fig reduction & plantain chip), and a bowl of Clam Chowder. The chowder, thickened with rice flour, is absolutely delicious, creamy with a pleasant clam taste. It is neither too thick nor too thin, and doesn't suffer in the least for not possessing gluten. In fact, this is a clam chowder that stands as one of the best in the city.

As for the other dishes, the Scallop was perfectly seared with a tasty and lightly sweet reduction, as well as a crisp plantain chip. It was my second favorite of the four. The briny oyster was covered by a flavorful cream with hints of umami from the mushrooms. As I am not a fan of beets, I didn't eat the Beet Carpaccio but those who like beets seemed to greatly enjoy that preparation.

We next received a sampling of entrees including Rockport Merluza Filet ($28), Lobster Thermidor (Market Price) and Grilled Salmon ($29).

The Lobster Thermidor is prepared with a cured tomato hollandaise and gruyere cheese, quite a rich and decadent preparation. A good-sized piece of sweet lobster tail meat with nutty elements from the cheese and umami elements from the tomato. You are not missing any flavor in this gluten free dish and it would appeal to everyone who loves lobster.

The Rockport Merluza Filet (merluza is also known as hake) is made with Pernod, crispy bacon, and creamed brussel sprouts. A slightly sweet white fish, with a firmer (yet still flaky) texture, and a salty element from the bacon. A nice substitute for cod or haddock. Another delicious choice.

The Grilled Loch Duart Salmon is prepared with roasted garlic, baby potatoes, and wild mushrooms. Salmon is a delicious fish, with its firm, meaty texture and the sauce enhanced its rich taste. The mushrooms also added an umami element and the crisp potatoes were a nice addition.

For dessert, we had Mocha Creme Brulee ($8), which is similar to the usual brulees you can have at most restaurants. It is good but nothing really exciting. The dessert options are the weakest part of the gluten free menu.

Overall, Turner Fisheries has crafted an impressive gluten free menu and the savory items should satisfy most any craving. The dishes do not lack in taste in any way and are as creative as anything on the regular menu. I would like to see more unique gluten free dessert options but with all of the savory options, you might not have room for dessert anyways.

Alsatian Wines & Pheasant at Craigie On Main

Due to a late change of plans, I was able to attend a Wines of Alsace dinner, showcasing fall and winter whites, at the consistently superb Craigie on Main. There were a number of familiar faces there, including Jason of Ancient Fire Beverage and Jackie of Leather District Gourmet. Overall, it was a fun evening, with plenty of delicious food and wine as well as lots of interesting conversation. It was a perfect example of the joyous combination of friends, food and wine. Each of those three components is enhanced when combined together. That is something to keep in mind as the new year begins.

Alsace is a French region that borders Germany and Switzerland, and throughout history, control of the Alsace has often switched back and forth between France and Germany. That has led to an interesting fusion of the two cultures. The Alsace has a lengthy history of wine production, currently making over 150 million bottles annually of which they export about 36 million bottles. There are three Appellations d’Origine Contrôlées (AOC) including AOC Alsace, AOC Alsace Grand Cru, and AOC Cremant d' Alsace.

Approximately 92% of Alsatian wines are whites and the primary grapes include Gewurtztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Sylvaner. Unlike most of the rest of France, the Alsace identifies their wine by the grape rather than the region. One quirk though has to do with wines labeled Pinot Blanc. Such wines can also include the grape Pinot Auxerrois, though it might not be listed on the label. In fact, a 100% Pinot Auxerrois wine can be labeled as Pinot Blanc. Just one of those wine oddities.

Unfortunately, Alsatian wines aren't on the radar of the average consumer. At the wine store where I work, I have almost never had a customer ask specifically for an Alsatian wine. At least they don't have a negative image of those wines. Dependent on the type of wine a customer desires, I have had success in recommending Alsatian wines, from dry Riesling to spicy Gewurtztraminer. It is more of a handsell though, and Alsatian wines need greater publicity to let the average consumer know of their quality and taste. My dinner at Craigie certainly showed some compelling Alsatian wines, as well as how well they pair with a variety of dishes. These are wines that would satisfy consumers.

Chef Tony Maws created quite a varied menu, including seafood, poultry, pasta, pork, Asian accents, and more. All of the dishes were delicious, as expected, though the pheasant was my clear favorite and I'll talk more about it later in this post. My dining companions all seem similarly impressed with the cuisine. I should note that many of my photos of the various dishes definitely do not do justice to their taste and quality.

We began our multi-course meal with Three Amuse Bouche Preparations, including Nantucket Bay Scallops (with crystalized ginger vinaigrette), Smoked Sablefish Rillettes and Squid Noodles (with nuoc cham). All three were flavorful bites and I enjoyed the smokiness of the rillettes though my favorite was the noodles, with such an umami rich taste. They whetted my appetite, making me eager for the rest of the meal.

Paired with the amuse bouche was the NV Schoenheitz Cremant d' Alsace ($14), a blend of 90% Pinot Auxerrois and 10% Pinot Blanc that was aged on the lees for 24 months. It also has an alcohol content of only 12% and was made with a low dosage. This is an excellent value wine; crisp, clean and elegant with pleasant apple and pear flavors as well as a streak of minerality. Very easy drinking and refreshing, it would be a fine apertif as well as a good pairing with food. You won't find many other sparkling wines that taste this good as this price point.

Our first course was more seafood, Kona Kampachi Sashimi, with thins slices of Asian pear, pinenut-miso puree and pickled mustard seeds. Silky smooth and firm kampachi with a slight sweetness from the miso and the pear. A nice combination of textures as well. The wine pairing was the 2006 Trimbach Cuvee Frederich Emile Riesling ($50), poured from a magnum. With an alcohol content of 12.75%, this wine is not produced each year, dependent on the quality of the available Riesling grapes. A stunning Riesling, with only a hint of sweetness, and plenty of acidity and minerality. A perfect wine with seafood.

More seafood arrived next, a Slow-Cooked Tasmanian Sea Trout Mi-Cuit with chorizo, scallion, and a boudin noir-housin sauce. A meaty and flavorful fish, the chorizo adding a salty edge though the savory sauce really elevated this dish. An excellent preparation. We had two Rieslings with this dish, one which was not my style though I know plenty of others who would have loved it. The 2009 Josemeyer Hengst Grand Cru Riesling ($66) is biodynamic and had a strong petrol smell, an aroma that I do not enjoy. It came out on the palate too so I wasn't a fan of this wine. However, the 2005 Schleret Herrenweg Riesling ($25) was more my style, dry with floral aromas, crisp acidity and some subtle lemon notes. Plenty of complexity, a satisfying finish and it worked well with the trout.

With a change-up, the next course was House-made Whole Wheat Fettucini with a foie gras-Jerusalem artichoke cream, Brussel sprout leaves, and house-cured lomo. Nice al dente pasta with a creamy, rich sauce enhanced by the salty lomo. This course also brought my favorite wine of the evening, the 2007 Marcel Deiss Engelgarten ($40). "Engelgarten" means "Angel's Garden" and it is a field blend of Muscat, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc. It is also biodynamic and has an alcohol content of 12%. This was a stunning and complex wine, with great tropical fruit flavors, crisp acidity, a strong minerality backbone and hints of spice. A wine to savor either with or without food. Well worth the price and highly recommended. The 2004 Rolly Gassman Pinot Gris ($45), also biodynamic, was delicious too with a compelling nose of Muscat and spice. I think it might have been overshadowed a bit being paired with the amazing Engelgarten.

As I mentioned earlier, my favorite dish of the dinner was the Slow-Roasted Pheasant Breast & Confit Leg with quince, chestnuts, and matsutake mushrooms. This possessed everything you desire from a perfect poultry dish, that addictive crispy skin and tender, moist and flavorful meat. I don't recall ever having a better pheasant dish. Chef Maws may be best known for his pork dishes, but his culinary talents are far broader.

Two Gewurtztraminers were paired with the pheasant, including the certified organic 2001 Becker Gewurtztraminer ($25), which has the usual Gewurtz flavor profile and was light and tasty. The 2010 Zind-Humbrecht Hengst Grand Cru Gewurtztraminer ($65) is Biodynamic and was darker in color than the Becker, as well as possessing a stronger Muscat aroma. It had more complexity and intensity of flavor than the Becker, a fine example of the potential of Gewurtz.

Finally, dessert arrived, Whole Wheat Crepes with Macoun apples, pepitas, and butternut ice cream. A nice treat to end the meal, with two Vendages Tardives, late harvest wines. The 2001 Charles Koehly Alternburg Grand Cru Pinot Gris ($55) was thick, rich and complex, with a mild sweetness well balanced by acidity. Delicious flavors of apricot, honey and dried fruits. It was my favorite of the two. The 2008 Valentin-Zusslin Bollenberg Gewurtztraminer Vendages Tardives ($50) was not as rich or sweet, having more acidity, though pleasant tropical fruit flavors.

Help spread the word about Alsatian wines so that they become something well known even to the average consumer. For a couple other recommendations of Crémant d'Alsace, check one of my recent posts.

Happy New Year

Happy New Year to one and all!

As 2013 begins, I wish only the best for my family, friends, readers and everyone else. It is my sincere desire that the world will find this new year to be better, in all ways, than the previous one. 

The last several years have been challenging for most of us, especially economically. For example, the economy figured significantly in the presidential election and over the last month, we have all been concerned about the potential consequences of the "fiscal cliff."  It is my fervent hope that 2013 bring a much better economic outlook for all of us. No matter what happens though, we shall find a way to make 2013 a great year. Try to maintain a positive attitude, no matter what happens, and you can get through anything. Savor everything you possess rather than bemoan what you lack.

For The Passionate Foodie, I have plenty of ideas and plans for this new year: places to visit, issues to examine, wines to drink, food to eat, books to read, and much, much more. For example, I will be speaking at the Design Bloggers Conference in March in Los Angeles about Sake & specialized blogging. I hope to attend TasteCamp, which will be held in Quebec in 2013. I look forward to the next Boston Cocktail Summit this year, expecting that it will be even bigger and better than last year. I want to dine at restaurants I have not yet visited, such as Journeyman, Tres Gatos and Belly Wine Bar. I look forward to trying the new roasted suckling pig dinners at Taberna de Haro. There is plenty other things I hope to experience.

I also have plans for The Tipsy Sensei, my new series of stories about a Boston Sake expert who learns that the supernatural creatures from Japanese folklore are real. Next up, I will publish a paperback collection of short stories, which will include the first three Tipsy Sensei short stories as well as a new historical story featuring Hato from Demons, Gods & Sake. I am also hoping to finish and publish Tipsy Sensei #5, a new novel, which is tentatively titled Hand Fed Tigers.

This is only a small portion of what I have planned for the coming year. If you have any suggestions for me, please leave them in the comments or email me.  I am always looking for new and interesting food, wine, sake, and spirits places to check out.

Thanks so much to all of my readers during the past year and best wishes to you for the coming year. I hope you will continue to read my blog in 2013, and please send me your feedback and criticism so I can make The Passionate Foodie even better.

Dine and drink with passion all year round!