Red Arrow Diner: Quick Review

Yesterday, after a shopping visit to the Merrimack Premium Outlets in New Hampshire, I needed to find a place for a good lunch. Fortunately, earlier in the week, I received a recommendation from Marc of Boston's Hidden Restaurants to check out the Red Arrow Diner in Manchester, just north of the outlets. It turned out to be a fine recommendation and I must second his recommendation to anyone who finds themselves near Manchester.

The diner originally opened its doors in October 1922, over 90 years ago, and has undergone some changes in ownership over this time. Around 1987, the diner was purchased by Carol Sheehan, who is still the current owner, and there is also a second location in Milford, which opened in October 2008. The diner is open 24/7 and serves breakfast, lunch and dinner all the time. So whenever you get a craving for Belgian waffles or a piece of meatloaf, you can find it here. We could use more 24/7 diners in Boston and the suburbs.

The menu is extensive, with plenty of the usual diner fare as well as some of their own unique specialties like homemade pork pie. Nearly everything on the breakfast and lunch menus, and most items on the dinner menu, are under $10. On the dinner menu, the items basically top out at $12.99. This is a very affordable menu, with plenty of diversity. There are also a number of specials each day, giving you even more choices.

Most of the seating are stools at the counter, with a handful of booths in one corner. There is certainly a diner-ambiance going on. From your seat, you might be able to see their desserts in a refrigerated cooler, such as cream pies and whoopie pies. Service is friendly and good.

I decided on the Monte-Christo Sandwich ($8.99), ham, turkey and Swiss on French toast, which comes with your choice of a side and I opted for the homemade potato chips. The sandwich pleased me, with plenty of pieces of fresh turkey in it, and a nice, eggy bread. One of the better Monte Cristo sandwiches I have enjoyed. And the chips were delicious, though could have used a bit more salt, which is still better than being over salted. All I needed to do was a quick shake of salt over them. They were crisp, slightly warm and had a clean flavor to them.

The other dishes I saw looked good and my dining companions enjoyed their food as well, including the Biscuits Benedict special. And afterwards, I had to try a Dinah Finger ($1.59), essentially their own version of the Twinkie, but with far more flavor, and a creamier filling, than the usual processed treat.

I'll return here the next time I am in the area, and urge my readers to check it out as well.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) After 28 years, Chef/Owner Steve DiFillippo is making his way back to his hometown with the opening of Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse in Lynnfield at the new Market Street Lynnfield shopping complex. Growing up in Lynnfield, DiFillippo’s passion for food began when he would rush home after long football practices to cook with his mom and learn all the DiFillippo family recipes passed down by his Italian grandmother.

“After opening Davio’s restaurants in multiple locations including Boston’s Back Bay, Chestnut Hill, Foxborough, Atlanta and Philadelphia, it is an honor to open in my own hometown. I always dreamed of opening my own restaurant in Lynnfield, this is where I grew up and is a very special homecoming for me.” – Steve DiFillippo

Under the leadership of DiFillippo, Culinary Director Rodney Murillo, Executive Chef Stephen Brown and General Manager Joe Buccieri, Davio’s Lynnfield will offer an array of daily lunch and dinner specials, while engaging guests with signature menu options, including Davio’s classics, fresh salads, handmade pastas, an a la carte section, Prime Brandt Beef and plated entrées.

The menu will include the following dishes ranging from $8 to $31: Tagliatelle Bolognese (braised veal, beef, pork, tomato sauce); Lobster Risotto (Asparagus, Fresh Herbs, Lobster Cream); Roasted Tomato Soup (goat cheese, chive crostini); Crispy Chicken Livers (port balsamic glaze, glass spinach, toasted pine nuts); Kobe Beef Meatball (San Marzano tomatoes) and Warm Spinach Salad (roasted peppers, portobello mushrooms, goat cheese, garlic, olive oil).

Pasta lovers can look forward to a selection of Farinacei (handmade pastas) such as Hand-Rolled Potato Gnocchi (organic mushrooms, basil, white truffle oil); Fettucine Carbonara (pancetta, egg, parmigiano, black pepper) and Spaghetti, Shrimp (hot chilies, white wine, lemon, olive oil) all prepared in house using the “La Monferrina” pasta machine imported from Italy. This new Technology allows for the production of delicious dry pasta in various shapes and sizes, all out of one machine.

While dining at the bar, Chef Stephen Brown has carefully crafted a selection of artisan, handmade pizzas. Priced from $12 to $16 and comprised of classic pizzas such as San Marzano Tomato (fresh mozzarella, basil); Prosciutto (fig jam, arugula, caramelized onions, shaved parmigiano) and Pepperoni. All of the handmade pizzas are cooked in the all-new wood stone oven. This oven heats up to 800 degrees Fahrenheit, cooking the pizza evenly from the bottom and top simultaneously for a crisp and bubbly crust.

Davio’s Lynnfield’s beverage menu includes a vast selection of spirits, premium alcohol and refreshing mixers, in addition to an array of signature cocktails such as the Pompelmo (Absolut Ruby Red, St. Germain, Grapefruit Juice); Davio’s Inferno (Stoli Hot, Fresh Lime Juice, Splash of Red Pepper Flake-Infused Simple Syrup) and Melagrano (Reyka, Pama, Fresh Lime Juice, Cranberry Juice, Splash of Rhubarb Bitters) priced at $11. Offering nearly 250 labels, the varied wine collection is comprised of red, white and sparkling wines from Italy, France and the United States, 20 of which are available by the glass ranging in price from $9 to $16. Paying special attention to its Italian heritage, Davio’s Lynnfield has placed particular emphasis on sourcing from Italy’s Tuscany and Piedmont regions. Taking serious wine connoisseurs into account, a special reserve selection featuring over 20 red and white wines by the bottle are also available.

2) Every Monday night from September 2, the bar at Tavolo will become an enoteca whose theme is Cheap Flights to Italy.  Eclectic bottles of regional Italian wines -- drawn from the identical 20 regions of Italy that are explored each week at Tavolo'’s popular Regional Pasta Tour -- will be featured in combination with three small plates of matching food. Each week, a stamp will be made in the diner’s personal Wine Passport, stored at the restaurant. Cheap Flights to Italy with small plates, hosted by Tavolo sommelier Monica Bolduc, cost $25 per person.

3) Executive Chef Eric Gburski is adding signature southern comfort dishes to the existing “Burger Joint” lunchtime menu at Estelle’s Southern Cuisine in the South End. In addition to the five burger options and four gourmet salads, Chef Grburksi will offer a taste of the south with Po Boy’s and an array of authentic southern plates.

For starters, there are five options: Buttermilk Fried House Pickles ($5.25); Spicy Smoked Chicken Liver Deviled Eggs ($3.95); Tasso Ham Hushpuppies (orange-chile honey & parsley butter - $5.95); Buttermilk Fried Chicken Thigh (watermelon-radish salad & BBQ sauce -$6.95); and, Traditional Sausage & Smoked Chicken Gumbo ($8.95).

Chef Gburski’s Po Boy’s are served with house-cut fries and a variety of sauces and will be as follows: Estelle’s Monte Cristo (smoked turkey, tasso ham, gruyere cheese & red onion jam - $11.95); Slow Roasted Brisket & Smoked Provolone (pickled hot pepper relish & roasted garlic aioli - $10.95); and, Fried Gulf White Shrimp (green tomato – corn chow chow & remoulade slaw - $12.95).

Savory southern entrees include: Buttermilk Fried Chicken Platter (sausage gravy, 2 cheese mac n’ cheese & seared greens - $17.95); and, Cajun Cornmeal Crusted Catfish (pecan-parsley relish, red beans n’ rice & garlic seared greens -$19.95).

Estelle’s is open for lunch service Monday through Saturday from 11:30am to 5:00pm.

4) On Wednesday, September 11, at 6:30pm, Ristorante Olivio, located in Arlington, will host a four- course Italian wine dinner in conjunction with North of Boston Wine Week. The all-inclusive meal ($49 per person + tax and gratuity) consists of four courses with specially paired wines.  

MENU:
Antipasto
Carpaccio di Vitello (Charred veal tenderloin carpaccio, shaved parmigiano reggiano, capers, zest of lemon and celery, drizzled lemon with juice and white truffle oil)
Wine: Alfredo & Luca Roagna Dolcetto d’Alba (Piedmont)

Primi
(Choice of One)
Tortellini (Homemade sweet corn tortellini, with lobster meat, shaved zucchini, roasted cherries tomatoes, lobster and fresh herb broth)
Wine: Villa Matilde Falerno del Massico Bianco (Campania)
or
Agnolotti (Homemade beef short rib Agnolotti, with fried zucchini, brown butter, shaved parmigiano and toasted bread crumbs)
Wine: Ascheri Barbera d’Alba (Piedmont)

Secondi
(Choice of One)
Filetto di Manzo (Filet Mignon, potato mash, crispy pancetta, braised rainbow chard, and Valpolicella reduction)
Wine: Tommasi Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore (Veneto)
or
Spigola con Salmoriglio (Sea Bass, with extra virgin olive oil, garlic, parsley, fresh oregano and lemon, artichokes and zucchini)
Wine: Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany)

Dolce
Sicilian Cake (Rum cake, ricotta, chocolate, peaches, strawberries, whipped cream & pistachios)
Wine: Le Serra Moscato D’asti

Reservations recommended by calling (781) 648-2300.

Risotto: Origins, Variations & Rice

"Rice is born in water and dies in wine."
--Italian proverb

Risotto (which means "little rice") is basically an Italian rice dish that has been cooked in a stock until it possesses a creamy consistency. It is a versatile dish, and can be prepared with many different, additional ingredients, from uni to mushrooms, peaches to tomatoes. Preparing risotto can take 25 minutes or more, and usually is said to require constant attention, continually stirring of the rice and stock. Because of that lengthy time, restaurants often partially premake their risotto as they usually wouldn't have the time to make risotto to order.

When done well, risotto can be absolutely delicious, with rich flavors and a delightful creaminess. I have savored some fine risottos at places like Prezza, Posto, A Tavola and Bistro 5. I have a special memory of an impressive Uni Risotto at Le Bernardin in New York City. Risotto is a dish I rarely have at home but which I should, and maybe that will change after the Risotto cooking class I will attend tomorrow night at Lucia Ristorante in Winchester.

“White rice with melted butter and white sugar is not of this world.”
--al-Asma’i

Rice has been known in Italy since the days of ancient Rome however they primarily used rice medicinally, and rarely as a food source. During the Middle Ages, probably around the 14th century, Italians began considering it more as a food and also started growing it, especially in the Lombardy region. The earliest documentation of rice cultivation in Italy dates to 1475 though it is assumed that cultivation actually began before that date. In Lombardy, the Po Valley was considered a perfect place for rice agriculture and rice soon became a staple in this region.

It is also important to note that after the Spanish took possession of the the Duchy of Milan, in the 16th century, they introduced the spice saffron to the region. Saffron is a pricey spice, and it too was once used far more for medicinal purposes rather than as a food ingredient. The Romans valued saffron, cultivating it in Gaul, but after the empire's fall, cultivation seemed to nearly vanish for a time until the Moors seemed to resurrect it. It is likely from the Moors than Spain became enamored with saffron and eventually brought it back to Italy.

"Don’t trust a hungry man to watch your rice."
--Tibetan Proverb

Common belief is that risotto originated in Lombardy sometime during the 16th century. Allegedly, some of the first rice dishes were prepared in a savory or sweet liquid, creating a soft, porridge-like dish and risotto eventually evolved from this dish. Maybe the most famous risotto, Risotto alla Milanese, which is made with saffron, has an "official" date of invention, September 8, 1574. In 2007, the City of Milan recognized several products, such as cassoeula, michetta, ossobuco, and panettone, as specifically Milanese, granting them a Recognition of Communal Denomination (De.Co.). Risotto received this designation as well and they selected September 8, 1574 as the date of birth of this dish.

This date of birth is derived from a legend about the origin of saffron risotto, and like most legends, has several different versions. In the main versions, while the famous Cathedral Duomo Di Milano was being constructed, a Master Glazer, Valerio di Fiandra was in charge of creating the stained glass windows. Saffron was using in preparing some of the colors for the stained glass. Most of the legends claim that one of his apprentices, either as a joke or an act of revenge for a perceived slight, added saffron to one of the rice dishes at a wedding feast, possibly the wedding of Valerio's daughter. The perpetrator of this act never thought that the guests would enjoy the saffron rice dish but they loved it, and Risotto alla Milanese was born. It is also part of the folklore that saffron is an aphrodisiac.

"Rice is the best, the most nutritive and unquestionably the most widespread staple in the world."
--Escoffier

Risotto alla Milanese may be one of the most well known of risotto dishes, but there are many variations in Italy. In Lombardy, you will also find risottos made with snails or pork cutlets. In Venice, they make Risotto al Nero di Sepia, a black risotto prepared with cuttlefish ink. You will also find risotto dishes in the Veneto made with pumpkin, shellfish, asparagus, smoked salmon, radicchio and even frog legs. In the Piedmont, you will find risotto prepared with Barolo wine, and maybe mushrooms, sausage or Borlotti beans. The Piedmontese city of Vercelli is well known for making risotto with frog, and they have even been celebrating a annual frog festival in September since the Middle Ages.

It is a dish that seems to lend itself to creativity, a simple base dish which can be enhanced by any number of ingredients. It can be used as a showcase of seasonal ingredients, and is appropriate year round. One of the most creative risottos I have tasted was made by Chef Vittorio Ettore of Bistro 5 who prepared a Peach Risotto with fresh peaches, Gorgonzola, Prosciutto di Parma & mint oil. I wasn't sure how the peaches would be in the risotto but it all worked so well. A nice blend of sweet, salt and tang.

“Without rice, even the cleverest housewife cannot cook.”
--Chinese proverb

Rice is the most basic component to risotto but not just any rice lead to a compelling dish. In general, you should use a short or medium grain rice with a high starch content. You probably could make a risotto from any type of rice, but the results might not be what you desire as each type of rice has its own different properties and not all rice varieties lend themselves to the chemistry of risotto. Besides the rice types, there are also designations for rice, indicative of their size and shape, such as Superfino, Semifino and Fino. Superfino is the largest grain and generally preferred for risotto. Three rice varieties are primarily used in risotto, including Arborio, Carnaroli and Vialone Nano, though you may also hear of varieties such as Baldo, Maratelli, Padano, and Roma.

Arborio rice is the least expensive of the 3 main types though it is not as starchy and doesn't absorb liquids as well as the other two types. It is also easier to overcook so care needs to be taken. Vialone Nano, popular in the Veneto, has more starch and produces a creamier risotto than Arborio. However, the purported king of rice is Carnaroli as it possess lots of starch, absorbs liquids well and the inner starch is firm, allowing the rice kernel to possess a firm texture even after it is cooked, a nice al dente. It is more expensive so the added quality comes with a price.

"Rice is a beautiful food. It is beautiful when it grows, precision rows of sparkling green stalks shooting up to reach the hot summer sun. It is beautiful when harvested, autumn gold sheaves piled on diked, patchwork paddies. It is beautiful when, once threshed, it enters granary bins like a (flood) of tiny seed-pearls. It is beautiful when cooked by a practiced hand, pure white and sweetly fragrant."
--Shizuo Tsuji

What are your thoughts on risotto? What are your favorite restaurants for risotto? What is your favorite risotto recipe? 

Rant: Food Trucks Are So Yesterday

Food trucks have had their time in the spotlight, being the next big trend, but that was yesterday. Don't worry though as they are not going to suddenly vanish and new food trucks will still continue to make their debut. However, a new restaurant innovation is poised to take the country by storm and New York City may be leading the way. Will Boston wait to jump on this trend, or will it try to seize the initiative and capitalize on this new trend right now?

About a week ago, Crain's New York Business posted an interesting article, Tiny restaurants turn into small wonders, written by Adrianne Pasquarelli. She wrote about essentially new restaurants which are basically "stationary" food trucks. These new places are brick & mortar establishments, but they occupy small pieces of real estate, usually less than 200 square feet. In New York City, you'll find these places selling sliders to meatballs, cupcakes to gelato.

Such tiny places have advantages, such as low overhead, though there are limitations as well, such as the fact that they need to concentrate on very limited menus. Though even those limitations can potentially be turned into advantages. A restaurant can concentrate on making just a couple of items very well, and can become well known for those two items. The article details several successful businesses, noting that their profits can be lucrative.

Obviously the mobility of food trucks can be seen as an advantage in some respects to a brick & mortar spot though that mobility can be a problem as well, especially in winter when the snows come. It might also be difficult for customers to find a particular food truck at any particular time unless they find its schedule, and the truck has followed that schedule. A brick & mortar gives permanence so customers will be able to find it more easily. And the owner doesn't need to know how to drive!

Running these tiny restaurants might be good experience, and give some indication to the owner whether they might succeed at a larger place or not. They let you concentrate on excelling in a couple items, rather than spreading out your general skills over a large menu. It would also help the community by occupying empty rental properties, providing taxes to the city and more. Bring several of these tiny restaurants together in the same area, and you end up with a far better version of a mall food court.

Place blocks under those food truck wheels and occupy some real estate, though just a tiny piece.

2 Gingers Irish Whiskey: A Whiskey For Women?

Demand for Irish whiskey has boomed over the last decade, outpacing many other liquor categories. For example, from 2010 to 2011, the volume of Irish whiskey grew nearly 24% and from 2011 to 2012, it grew about another 23%. Compare this to the 3% annual growth of the general spirit category. However, the Irish whiskey category is still relatively small, about 2.2 million cases, while the overall whiskey category is at about 50 million cases.

Interestingly, in the first quarter of 2012, the fastest-growing spirit category, having risen nearly 155%, was flavored whiskey and its primary targeted market is women. Women are seen as a huge potential market for whiskey, though many producers seem to think most women won't drink traditional whiskey. Currently, women constitute about 20-30% of whiskey consumers but that percentage basically doubles for most flavored whiskey brands. However, there appears to be at least one non-flavored whiskey which is appealing to a large percentage of women, 2 Gingers Irish Whiskey.

I received a review sample of the 2 Gingers Irish Whiskey, a blended whiskey which was distilled twice and then aged for four years in used bourbon barrels. Most Irish whiskies are distilled three times, but 2 Gingers wanted to retain more flavor so it only distilled it twice. They also wanted to make their whiskey smoother, so they aged it longer than the usual three years. Their whiskey is produced at the Kilbeggan Distillery and the idea for it was spawned by Kieran Folliard, an Irishman who has spent about 25 years in Minnesota.

Kieran operated several pubs in Minnesota and first debuted his new Irish whiskey there. The name of the whiskey, 2 Gingers, was inspired by his red-headed mother and aunt, Mary and Delia, and their faces grace the bottle label. The 2 Gingers Irish Whiskey costs around $20, for a 750ml bottle, and has been expanding its distribution outside of the midwest and is now also available in Massachusetts. In many of the states where it is sold, it is more popular with women than competing brands. In Minnesota, where the brand started, women constitute about 40% of consumers.

It was Kieran's intention to create an Irish whiskey which would have a broader appeal, trying to reach an audience which usually did not choose whiskey. He wanted to create a "genderless, seasonless whiskey that’s very versatile and approachable." The whiskey is also promoted as an excellent base for a variety of cocktails, such as their Big Ginger, a simple blend of 2 Gingers Irish Whiskey and ginger ale.

What did I think? I found the 2 Gingers to be light, mild and smooth, a whiskey profile which would appeal to a broad audience. It possesses a mild sweetness from the bourbon barrels with hints of vanilla and caramel, complemented by bright citrus notes, especially on the finish. The finish tends to be a bit short, though it is pleasant. Even if you are not a fan of most whiskey, the 2 Gingers might be something you would enjoy. I also made my own version of the Big Ginger, using ginger beer rather than ginger ale, and it was tasty and refreshing, a nice summer drink.

As a light and milder alternative to other whiskies, it is good value at $20, and should reach a wider audience of drinkers, whether on its own or in cocktails. It will appeal to those who dislike some of the harsher tasting whiskies. It is not specifically a woman's whiskey, but rather a lighter, milder Irish whiskey for anyone, man or woman. And a nice cocktail base as well.