Friday, August 30, 2013

Seasons 52 Fresh Grill & Wine Bar: Healthy & Wine-centric

Burlington is becoming an attractive destination for restaurant chains, from Capital Grille to Bobby's Burger Palace. In the near future, places such as Bonefish Grill and Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steak House will open there. To me, chains can be a mixed bag, some which are good and others which offer bountiful portions of mediocre food. The latest chain restaurant to open in Burlington, having opened only yesterday, is Seasons 52, a "fresh grill and wine bar." Earlier this week, I attended a pre-opening media dinner and got a sneak peek at what is coming. And then I stopped by yesterday to check out their lunch.

Located on the second floor of the former Borders Book Store, in the Wayside Commons shopping complex, there is ample parking as well as valet service. Seasons 52 currently has about 32 locations, scattered across the country, and emphasizes a seasonal and healthy menu, with no item, from appetizers to entrees, having more than 475 calories. In addition, they have a specially curated wine list, of about 100 selections, with around 60 available by the glass. The healthy concept, with wine, sounds like an interesting concept but is it executed well? Is Seasons 52 one of those mediocre chains or not? In short, they have started out well and show much potential.

Before dinner, I got a tour of the restaurant and it certainly looks nothing like the former Borders. The decor is elegant and sophisticated, almost resembling some of the higher-end steakhouses. It seats around 300 people, including the main dining area, the piano bar, outside patio and four meeting rooms. The bar is good-sized and every night they have a piano playing there, while the four meeting rooms are appropriate for everything from business conferences to wedding parties. We dined in one of the private rooms, the Sonoma Room, and the sound of the piano can still be heard there.

The kitchen is open and there is also a brick oven, which helps them prepare healthier dishes. I've always liked the idea of an open kitchen as I think it is a sign of confidence in the cooks.

There is a private Chef's Table, for roughly eight people, and you can reserve it for a minimum spending amount, varying dependent on the day. If the room is not previously reserved, a group who comes in may luck out andbe  able to sit here. There is a special Chef's Table Menu too for this room.

Near the entrance of the restaurant is their glassed-in Wine Chateau, where they store around 2000 wines. As they lack any basement storage for their wines, the wines are stored in the Chateau as well as throughout the restaurant.

Within the Chateau, they also are infusing organic vodka with oranges, and will create additional infusions in the future. The fruit will sit within the vodka for about a week.

Our hosts for the evening included George Miliotes, Master Sommelier (on the left), Chef Stefan Jarausch, Executive Chef Partner (in the middle), and Sean Wiseman, Managing Partner (on the right). Chef Jarausch, who is German born, most recently worked at Oak Long Bar & Kitchen at Fairmont Copley. They did a fine job of welcoming us to the restaurant, explaining the food and wine during our dinner, and answering all of our questions.

The restaurant is open for both lunch and dinner, with no item has more than 475 calories, making the restaurant a good choice for the weight conscious. One way they help keep calories down is by not using butter at all. They do not even stock butter in their kitchen. Besides their regular menus, they also have special dietary menus including: Lactose-Free, Low Sodium, Gluten-Free, Garlic-Free, Vegetarian and Vegan.

For Lunch, you'll find Flatbreads, Salads, Soft Tacos, Sandwiches, Burgers and Entrees, all priced from around $6-$20. Try a Red Mole Braised Beef Soft Taco with jalapeño-lime slaw, guacamole, and pickled red onion ($9.75) or a Grilled Boneless Rainbow Trout with baby carrots, parsley roasted potatoes, & grilled lemon ($16.95). The Dinner Menu omits the sandwiches, burgers & tacos, adding more entrees, topping out price-wise at $26.95. You will also find a number of seasonal specials available with each menu.

Though wine-centric, the restaurant has a complete bar, and carries plenty of beers, liquors and cocktails (roughly priced $11-$14). George Miliotes, their Master Sommelier, has personally selected all of the wines on the list for all of the Seasons 52 restaurants. The wine list has about 100 selections, 60 available by the glass, and about half the list costs $50 or under per bottle. The wine list rarely changes, and George has made long term relationships with a number of the wineries and some wines are even produced just for Seasons 52. George stated that as the restaurant is partially about "discovery," so is the wine list and the staff will gladly let you taste their wines prior to your purchases.

The wine list has some of the usual suspects, but there is some interesting diversity on the list as well. For example, they carry 6 Sparkling Wines, including a Prosecco, Cava and two California wines. Their two Champagnes are actually both from Growers, which is something you don't see too often at restaurants. My only concern with the list is with its pricing. It is seemingly priced on a sliding scale of sorts, with the less expensive wines having the highest markup, which can be 3X+ their usual retail price. If I can buy a wine at my local wine shop for $8-$10, I don't want to pay $34 for it at a restaurant. The higher-end wines more often are priced around 2X their usual retail, making them a better buy.

They offer a special, Flights & Flatbreads, with two flights of three wines, one white and the other red, for $15 and you also get your choice of a Flatbread. There is a third flight, of three red wines, for $20, which also gives you your choice of a Flatbread. You get 2 ounces pours of the three wines, and then you get an additional 6 ounce glass of the wine you want from those three. In essence, you are getting two glasses of wine. At the usual price, the $15 flights might cost you as much as $28 separately, so it is a good value.

Prior to sitting down for our dinner, we sipped some NV Chartogne-Taillet Cuvee Sainte Anne Champagne, a fine Grower Champagne with lots of flavor and character. A delightful melange of fruit, good acidity, a hint of smokiness and mild floral notes. It is also very fairly priced on their wine list. With our bubbly, we enjoyed slices of a couple Flatbreads, including a Trio of Roasted Mushrooms and a Chipotle Shrimp. The Chipotle was made with roasted poblanos, grilled pineapple, feta cheese, shrimp and a spicy chipotle sauce. The flatbreads are thin and crisp, and the ingredients made for a harmonious and tasty blend.

Once we sat, our evening began with an amuse-bouche, a spoonful of Lump Crab, Haas avocado and some pico de gallo. A nice little bite, and the fresh, crisp pico de gallo gave a nice boost to this dish. With this amuse, we enjoyed the 2011 Aveleda Vinho Verde, a Portuguese wine with a pleasant crisp taste of apples and a little effervescence. A simple but refreshing wine, perfect for the summer.

Next up was a Cedar Plank Salmon and Lemongrass Sea Scallop, with carrot, asparagus and a pepper. The scallops were from New England and the salmon was from a farm in Canada, though they stated they use wild salmon in season. The seafood was cooked well, with a nice sear on the scallop and the veggies were crisp. This is the type of light dish which is both tasty and filling. This was paired with the 2010 Mer Soleil Chardonnay, from the Central Coast of California, though the oak influence was too prominent for my own preferences, but others at the dinner enjoyed it.

A Baby Spinach Salad, made with Subarashii Kudamono pears, toasted pine nuts, and crumbled Gorgonzola cheese was lightly topped with a white balsamic vinaigrette. Though I am not a spinach guy, the rest of the salad was pleasant, the pears and Gorgonzola making a fine pairing. Our wine for this course was the 2012 Casillero del Diablo Viognier, from Chile, which was aromatic though not perfumy, with a nice taste of citrus, apricot and hints of spice. A good choice.

One of my favorite courses was the Sonoma Goat Cheese Ravioli with harvest vegetables, black mushrooms, and an apple cider & roasted onion jus. The pasta was cooked perfectly, and the creamy filling, complemented by the compelling sauce, was decadently delicious. This is a dish I would order again and highly recommend. The veggies were crisp, making a nice contrast to the creaminess of the ravioli.

Our wine was for this course was the 2009 Retromarcia Chianti Classic, a more Old World style wine made from 100% Sangiovese. High in acidity, it had plenty of dark, dusty fruit with only a mere hint of earthiness. It is a relatively simple but pleasant wine, made to go with food. This is my preferred style of Chianti Classico so I enjoyed the wine.

We ended our savory courses with an Oak-Grilled Filet Mignon (with a red wine demi-glaze) & Roasted Manchester Farms Quail (stuffed with wild mushroom risotto). They were accompanied by Yukon Gold mashed potatoes made with sour cream (and no butter!). The filet was tender with a nice outer char while the quail was moist and tender with plenty of meat. The potatoes were very good too, and didn't need any butter. For meat-lovers, either of these two meats would please you.

We enjoyed two wines with this dish, the 2009 Alto Moncayo Garnacha and the 2009 De Toren Z. The Moncayo, a Spanish wine made from old vine Garnacha, was superb, with plenty of complexity, deep, concentrated black fruit flavors, a spice melange and a lengthy finish. A real stunner, that went very well with the filet. The Toren, a South African Bordeaux-style blend, was also quite good, more Old World in style than New, with plenty of complexity, a nice balance, and lots of flavor, from red fruit to leather. It also went well with this dish.


For Dessert, they offer a variety of Mini Indulgences ($2.50 each), individual shot glasses filled with a variety of class desserts, including Pecan Pie with vanilla mousse, Carrot Cake, Chocolate Peanut Butter Mousse, Key Lime Pie, Mocha Macchiato, Summer Berry Cheesecake, Belgian Chocolate Rocky Road, Raspberry Chocolate Chip Cannoli and Market Fresh Fruit. These are small sweets to satisfyingly end the evening, rather than massive desserts to bloat you. I very much enjoyed the Pecan Pie, with its crunchy, sweet pecans and creamy mousse. Many of the others were also popular with the others at dinner, though the fresh fruit seemed to be largely ignored for the sweets. I enjoyed the Pecan Pie so much that I had it again after lunch.

With dessert, we had a glass of the 2010 Selbach-Oster Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese, a German dessert wine that was mildly sweet, with good acidity and pleasant citrus flavors. Another nice pairing with the sweet desserts.

Yesterday, at lunch, I decided to start with a Side of Tamale Tots ($2.75) because they are...Tots. Who can resist Tots? They are made from the masa used to make tamales, covered in panko and accompanied by a red mole & chili sour cream. The tots possessed a firmer & creamier texture than the usual tots, almost like mashed potatoes, and a nice crunchiness from the panko. They had an interesting flavor, with notes of corn, and the red mole added some spicy sweetness to the tots. Though I would have enjoyed an even spicier mole, this was an excellent side and I like their take on tots.

There are three Burgers on their lunch menu but none of them are made from hamburger. Rather, you will find turkey, tuna and buffalo. I opted for the Rocky Mountain Buffalo Burger ($9.75) which comes topped by blue cheese and has a side of pickles, tomato, lettuce and truffle sauce. It also comes on a sesame seed ciabatta roll. Buffalo is a leaner meat, and usually tastes so similar to beef that people rarely realize the difference. This was a very good burger, moist enough, and the blue cheese added an excellent tang to the taste. The roll had some of the firmness of ciabatta and it held up well with the burger, not getting soggy in the least.

With the burger, I ordered another Side, the Roasted Idaho Potato Wedges ($2.75) with a truffle sauce & tamarind BBQ sauce. These were ok but might have been a bit overcooked, though I liked the tamarind BBQ sauce. Stick with the Tots.

Service at the media dinner was excellent as expected. At lunch, my server Gustavo also did an excellent job, and seemed well trained. He was personable and accommodating, and I had no service issues. They seemed to have a large service staff, ready to accommodate a full restaurant.

Overall, I find much to like about Seasons 52, from its focus on wine and healthy food, to its tasty dishes and diverse wine selections. Pricing of the food seems reasonable, though wine pricing on their less expensive bottles is too high, partially balanced by their more reasonable markups on their higher end wines. This is one of the better chains and is a welcome addition to the Burlington area. If you are seeking a healthier dining alternative, this is a good option, and their food is delicious enough that it will appeal to even those much less concerned about eating healthy.

Have you dined at any of the other Season 52 restaurants? What are your thoughts?

Seasons 52 on Urbanspoon

Thursday, August 29, 2013

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) On September 16, at 6:30pm, Legal Harborside will host a wine dinner with Italian winery, Altesino. Nestled away in the heart of Tuscany, Altesino’s production averages 220,000 bottles per year, and is recognized as one of the area’s most distinguished producers. Legal Harborside will team up with Altesino’s Commercial Director and Assistant Wine Maker, Guido Orzalesi, to host a four-plus-course dinner featuring cuisine paired with Orzalesi’s choices from the Altesino vine.

The menu will be presented as follows:
HORS D’OEUVRES
Duck “Rognuggets” with Orange Blossom Honey Dipping Sauce
Mushroom Bruschetta, Guanciale, Quail Egg
Polenta, Braised Snails and Shallots, Balsamic Vinegar
Rosemary Skewered Beef Heart, Agrodolce
Altesino Rosso di Montalcino, 2010
FIRST COURSE
Rainbow Chard and Robiola Agnolotti
Braised Veal Shoulder, Smoked Pine Nuts, Ricotta and Marjoram
Altesino Rosso di Montalcino, 2010
SECOND COURSE
Caramelized Lamb Belly (Oxtail Ragù, Lentils, Fermented Garlic and Roasted Squash) Altesino Brunello di Montalcino, 2007
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino, 2008
MAIN COURSE
Roasted 42 Day Ged Prime Rib of Beef (Rosemary-Horseradish Popovers, Puréed Potatoes, Grilled Escarole and Jus)
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino “Montosoli,” 2006
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino “Montosoli,” 2007
DESSERT COURSE
Dark Chocolate Panna Cotta with Cherry Almond Biscotti
Altesino Vin Santo “Val d’Arbia,” 2004

Cost: $125 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservations required by calling 617-530-9470

2) Mâitre d' hotel and Fromager Louis Risoli and Wine Director & Sommelier Lauren Collins present Salon Sessions, held at L’Espalier each month. Louis Risoli's passion for cheese is unparalleled and is the driving force behind the Grand Fromage at L’Espalier since 1988. Lauren Collins, Wine Director & Sommelier at L'Espalier, joined the team in 2012 and is a certified Advanced Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers. Lauren is one of five people in Boston to obtain this esteemed certification.

L’Espalier presents Classic Combinations at Salon Sessions—an intimate yet educational wine and cheese pairing. Join experts Louis Risoli and Lauren Collins, as they share their knowledge on textbook examples of great pairings, such as Triple Crème with Champagne, Stilton and Port, Chevre and Sancerre as well as Clothbound Cheddar with Bordeaux.

When: Thursday, September 12, at 6pm
Cost: $55 per person
Reservations are required. Please call L’Espalier at 617-262-3023

3) Legal Sea Foods is holding their fifth annual Oyster Festival this fall, from September 18 through October 15, Legal Sea Foods will celebrate everything oysters via menu features and a quartet of special events. All Massachusetts Legal Sea Foods locations will feature a series of rotating in-restaurant specials including Fried Oysters ($10.95), Oyster Stew ($10.95), Oyster Legal ($14.95), Oyster Po-Boy ($11.95) and Oyster & Andouille Sausage Jambalaya ($15.95).

“Our oyster bars are a hallmark of our restaurants,” observed Roger Berkowitz, President and CEO of Legal Sea Foods. “And no longer should oysters be just the favorites of gastronomes. We want to educate all our guests and encourage experimentation. We’d like everyone to share the belief of the idiomatic saying, ‘the world is your oyster.’”

Special events will be held at various Legal Sea Foods locations and will include:

--Shellfish Shindig, a ‘shuckout’ of $1 oysters at Charles Square’s outdoor Terrace Bar (September 22 from 2-4pm; a la carte pricing)
--Sip, Slurp and Sup, a trio of small plates paired with oyster-friendly wines hosted in the Park Square location (October 1 at 6:30pm; $40 per person)
--Mollusk Mania, an “everything oysters” party featuring a raw bar of eight varieties and four passed appetizers on the all-weather rooftop at Legal Harborside (October 6 from 2-4pm; $45 per person)
--Oyster Brewhaha, a four-course oyster and craft beer dinner at the Kendall Square location (October 8 at 6:30pm; $55 per person).

The health benefits of oysters come by the bushel. The bivalves are rich in protein, low in fat and calories, low in cholesterol, chockfull of vitamins and are nature’s best source of zinc. All shellfish are separated into batches according to vendor and certified bed area and subsequently tested for purity within 24 hours of receipt at its Quality Control Center, a state-of-the-art fish processing center complete with in-house laboratory. Product remains quarantined until test results confirm negative for toxins. Legal Sea Foods thus ensures that its oysters are, indeed, the best tasting and safest in the industry.

4) On Tuesday, September 24, Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro (BHHB) and the New England Aquarium will co-host a “Celebrate Seafood Dinner” to raise awareness of the challenges facing the oceans and the benefits of sustainable seafood. For just $65 per person, $55 for New England Aquarium members, guests will be treated to a one-of-a-kind, multi-course dinner with communal seating that will satiate the palate while satisfying the soul. For an additional $30, guests can enjoy an optional wine pairing with each course.

Executive Chef Josh Lewin is committed to incorporating local products and sustainable practices into Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro’s cuisine in unique and innovative ways. To bring this delicious and educational feast to diners, Lewin worked alongside the Aquarium’s Sustainable Seafood Program to bring only the freshest, most sustainable ingredients to the table. Joining the Bistro and Aquarium will be special guests, Pat and Barbara Woodbury of Woodbury Shellfish in Wellfleet, as well as Adam Fuller and Larry Trowbridge from Snappy Lobster Company in Scituate, to speak about their companies and the changing landscape that is affecting local resources. As they speak, guests will be able to taste their product firsthand by indulging into Chef Lewin’s creative take on Woodbury’s farmed shellfish and Snappy’s dayboat seafood.

For reservations please call: 617-723-7575. Seats are limited.

MENU:
Swordfish Conserva, Mouse Melon, Tomato Vinaigrette
Wellfleet Oyster, gelled in its liquor. Horseradish and Whey Granita
"Rachel Rose" Scallop Mousse. Cherry Cilantro Jam, Mangalitsa Lardo, Sabzi
Harpooned Swordfish and Lobster, Heirloom Tomato, Tomato Consomme, New Potato
Olive Oil Cake, Mexican Chocolate, Beets

For reservations please call: 617-723-7575. Seats are limited.

5) The region’s seafood industry will be the focus of the second annual Boston Seafood Festival. Hosted by the Fisheries Foundation (BFF) on Saturday, September 28 in the Seaport District at the Bank of America Pavilion, the event will be a day of celebration and festivities.

The Boston Seafood Festival will offer a full day of events focused on educating the public about the local and global elements at play in New England’s dynamic fishing industry. The event will take place from 11am-10pm and will include more than 20 vendors serving up fresh-from-the-water fare, an all-day lobster bake, celebrity chef demonstrations on how to cook seafood, an oyster shucking contest, the New England Aquarium Touch Tank and other hands-on activities for children, as well as educational panels presented by scientists, fishermen and nutritionists focusing on seafood and sustainability. Tickets are $10 and can be purchased in advance at www.bostonseafoodfestival.org.

Established by the BFF to raise awareness of New England’s fisheries, the festival highlights America’s original seafood hub, a centuries-old industry facing many modern-day issues. The Boston Seafood Festival hopes to set the tone this year for an even larger celebration next year, which will be held conjunction with the 100th birthday of Boston Fish Pier, an enduring symbol of the New England fishing industry. “We have to work together to sustain and support our fish and fishing families or iconic fishing centers like the Boston Fish Pier may disappear,” says Robert Nagle, co-founder of the Boston Fisheries Foundation and Vice President of Operations at John Nagle Co. The BFF will celebrate New England’s passion for fishing and delicious seafood bounty with locals and visitors at this all-day event. BFF President and Co-Founder Chris Basile, owner of Quarterdeck Seafood Market, says, “Whether you enjoy the most traditional or the most adventurous seafood, you will find it at the festival. We are really excited to share our love of seafood with the public.”

Fishing-related organizations such as Ocean Trust, Saving Seafood and Gloucester Fishermen’s Wives Association, along with scientists and nutritionists, will be on-hand to share information. There will be local culinary talent presenting stage demos throughout the day; some of the notable chefs who will demonstrate perfect fish preparation include Chef Jose Duarte of Taranta, Chef Rich Garcia of the former 606 Congress, and Chef Bill Bradley of the New England Aquarium. Last year, thousands of guests came to the event to enjoy the seminars, demos, music, and competitions. This year, the organizers anticipate more than 5,000 attendees over the course of the festival.

On Friday, September 27th, the BFF and Boston Seafood Festival organizers will kick off the weekend’s events with the second annual Boston Seafood Gala. This event will include culinary offerings from many of New England’s most prestigious chefs. Tickets to the gala are $125 per person and can be purchased by visiting www.bostonseafoodfestival.org. The gala will take place at the Exchange Conference Center on the Boston Fish Pier in the Seaport District. Proceeds from this celebratory gala event will benefit the Boston Fisheries Foundation.

6) Joslin Diabetes Center, the world's largest diabetes research and clinical care organization, will celebrate with “ritmos de salud” at the Artists for Humanity EpiCenter on September 26th, to benefit its Latino Diabetes Initiative.

Guests will enjoy an evening filled with upbeat Latin rhythms from Grammy nominated Gonalzo Grau as well as a performance by Salsa Matei Dance Company; guests will be encouraged to join in on the dance floor. A fabulous array of food will be provided by 10 of Boston’s most renowned Chefs, led by our culinary chair – Chef Jose Duarte of Taranta.

Diabetes is a disease of epidemic proportions across all populations, affecting certain racial/ethnic groups in even greater numbers. National data demonstrates that Latinos have a two-fold increase in the risk of developing type 2 diabetes compared to the Caucasian population. Joslin Diabetes Center’s Latino Diabetes Initiative (LDI) strives to improve the lives of Latinos affected by diabetes, or at risk for the disease, through culturally oriented patient care, education, outreach and research, as well as working to find a cure.

When: Thursday, September 26, 6pm-11pm
Cost: Tickets are $65 can be purchased by calling 617. 309.2512 or e-mail Kevin.Hudson@joslin.harvard.edu

Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Verlasso Salmon: A Seafood Watch "Good Alternative"

Do you avoid farmed salmon? Do you believe that farmed salmon is not sustainable? Maybe you need to reassess the situation.

Wild or farmed salmon? That is often the dilemma. There have been numerous real problems with farmed salmon, so organizations like the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch have generally labeled all farmed salmon as Avoid. However, I have previously criticized such watchdog organizations for making too broad an assessment which can ignore the good work of specific producers. Not all farmed salmon is the same, and the Seafood Watch is finally paying attention and making positive changes to their assessments to account for such exemplar producers.

For the last two years at the International Boston Seafood Show, I have reported about Verlasso Salmon, a farmed salmon operation which seemed to be avoiding the problems of other salmon farms. In 2012, I stated: "Verlasso seems to be headed in an excellent direction, working hard to be sustainable, and I applaud their efforts." This year, I repeated my sentiments: "Verlasso continues to move in the right direction and it is worthy of your support." You can read my previous posts for some of the specifics that make Verlasso salmon more sustainable, and you will be able to see that they also continue to improve their practices. Plus, and importantly, their salmon is tasty.

In 2012, the Seafood Watch instituted a pilot program for an External Assessment Model, which would "...allow third parties to utilize the Seafood Watch criteria and methodology to assess fisheries and aquaculture operations that would not otherwise be assessed by the Seafood Watch program." The Seafood Watch understands that they have a limited ability to assess all of the aquaculture and wild seafood operations around the world, and this pilot program would allow them to expand their assessments, without decreasing the quality of their program. Since 2012, the Seafood Watch has been testing out this new program on a limited basis and the results are starting to come in.

Verlasso Salmon became part of the Seafood Watch's new pilot program, the External Assessment Model, and its aquaculture practices were reviewed and assessed over a sixteen month period. And the result was a striking success for Verlasso. Verlasso is now the first and only ocean-raised farmed Atlantic salmon to receive a “Good Alternative” rating from the Seafood Watch program. All other Atlantic Farmed Salmon still has an "Avoid" rating, making Verlasso Salmon unique, indicative of their strong efforts to produce sustainable seafood.

“The Seafood Watch assessment of Verlasso’s hatcheries, farms, processing plants and management took 16 months,” said Jennifer Dianto Kemmerly, director of Seafood Watch. “Based on the extensive data we collected, which was vetted internally and by external peer reviewers, we’re confident that Verlasso is raising Atlantic salmon with environmentally responsible practices.” This announcement is a positive sign for other individual seafood operations who are committed to sustainability, but who might have fallen under a general Avoid rating in the past. I am impressed that the Seafood Watch has instituted the External Assessment Model and hope it continues to reward worthy fisheries.

Scott Nichols, the Verlasso director, stated. “Verlasso is devoted to finding comprehensive solutions for salmon aquaculture’s historic challenges. We are deeply gratified by Seafood Watch’s recognition of our efforts. We have collaborated with conservation leaders to help us on our journey to raise the best salmon with sustainable practices. The Good Alternative ranking is an exciting validation of our achievement.”

Congratulations to Verlasso Salmon for their achievement, and congratulations to the Seafood Watch for making the effort to improve their ratings and address the issue of worthy, individual operations which were previously marginalized under their overly broad assessments.

Tuesday, August 27, 2013

Learning Risotto at Lucia Ristorante

"Risotto – when made correctly – speaks of Italy."
--Lidia Bastianich

I've been pondering which risotto to make later this week, whether a traditional Risotto alla Milanese or something a bit more creative such as a Pear & Gorgonzola Risotto. Last week, I wrote about Risotto: Origins, Variations & Rice, giving some background and basics on this compelling Italian dish. In addition last week, I attended a Risotto cooking class, as a media guest, at Lucia Ristorante, learning how to prepare three different risotto dishes as well as using risotto to make Arancini. The class was informative and useful, tasty and fun, and I certainly would recommend that my readers attend future cooking classes at Lucia.

Earlier this year, Owner Donato Frattaroli (pictured on the right side) and Executive Chef Pino Maffeo (pictured on the left), began teaching monthly cooking classes at Lucia Ristorante in Winchester. Some of their prior classes covered Soups & Stocks, Artisan Pizza Making, Salads & Vinaigrettes, and Pasta. Each class runs about three hours, includes a meal, and costs $50-$60, making it an excellent value too. Their next class, which should be in September, will cover Preserving & Canning, and when I have more info, I will post about it in one of my future Sips & Nibbles columns.

"If you're cooking for a woman, make a good risotto and a salad."
--Wolfgang Puck

The Risotto class was popular, and there were ten attendees, though the class size is usually kept around five to seven. Originally, we were supposed to learn how to prepare Saffron Risotto, Wild Mushroom Risotto, and Seafood Risotto but at the class Chef Pino and Donato also decided to teach us how to prepare Arancini. Initially, we sat at tables for a brief intro about risotto, led by both Chef Pino and Donato, and soon enough we moved to a kitchen for a more hands-on lesson about preparing risotto.

I've attended other chef cooking classes at local restaurants and they often can be far more demonstrations, rather than having the attendees do much of the cooking. This class though immersed the attendees in both preparation as well as cooking, from dicing up onions and cleaning squid to sauteing mushrooms and cooking the rice. Demonstrations have value, but actual experience at cooking recipes is invaluable, elevating this cooking class above many others.

Chef Pino began by trying to assure us that making risotto is "pretty easy" as well as telling us that "there are no rules." There is no singular method to prepare risotto, and you will find plenty of chefs giving different advice. For example, though many claim that stirring risotto constantly is absolutely necessary, there are others, including Chef Pino, who disagree. It was also interesting to see when Chef Pino and Donato disagreed about certain aspects of risotto preparation, further proof that risotto is not a singular dish. For example, Chef Pino has no issue with using butter to finish a risotto but Donato would never do so, using only olive oil.

Risotto is also a versatile dish, and you can prepare it with a huge variety of different ingredients, dependent on your preferences. Even in Italy, you will find many different versions of risotto, with everything from asparagus to frogs. You can use any type of wine, from whites to reds, or even sake or beer. We used Arborio rice for our risottos, primarily because it is the easiest risotto rice for home cooks to find at nearly any market. Chef Pino mentioned to me though that he actually has had good results from using sushi rice!

"There are no two ways of making risotto; either you make it right, or it is not risotto."
--Lidia Bastianich

Trhoughout the class, Chef Pino and Donato showed us how to prepare and cook certain aspects of risotto and then they had us replicate those methods. Though they prepared much of the saffron risotto, they still had some of the attendees contribute to its cooking, such as stirring the rice after stock was added. Then, the attendees did most of the work in preparing the other two risottos. For example, I cooked much of the seafood risotto, from sauteing the onions, to constantly stirring the rice, letting the rice absorb the stock. Standing at a hot stove, stirring and stirring, while the rice plumped from the seafood stock, waiting until it reached the right consistency, with an al dente core.

Risotto actually doesn't take much skill, more just patience and observation. Work with quality ingredients and that will enhance your final product. Overall, it will take around 25 minutes to cook your risotto, and it will be well worth your time. You can make it as an entree or a side dish, and it can be created to accompany near any main dish. If anything, this class helped people to learn not to fear risotto preparation, which can seem intimidating. I know plenty of people who think it is too difficult at home, yet that is not truly the case.


"Kids today want to eat their risotto with curry and shrimp and sour cream, not risotto alla Milanese, like they should, in my opinion."
--Mario Batali

Above, are two photos of Saffron Risotto, also known as Risotto Alla Milanese. The first photo shows it while it is in the preparatory stages, while the second shows the final product: yellow, creamy and delicious. That is one of the simplest risottos to prepare, but it doesn't lack in flavor. Traditionally, it is served with Osso Buco, braised veal shank. Making this risotto would be a good place to start for a home cook, to better comprehend the steps of making risotto.


For the Mushroom Risotto, we used a combination of Chanterelles, Portabella, Oyster and Shitake mushrooms, though you can use any type of mushrooms that you like. Chef Pino also recommended using mushroom salt in the preparation, as well as a bit of truffle oil, to enhance the savory flavor of this dish. This dish is a huge burst of umami flavor and would pair well with an umami-rich Sake, such as a Kimoto or Yamahai-style.

For the Seafood Risotto, Chef Pino had recently caught a number of squid in the Boston Harbor, and you can't get much fresher than that. So, the attendees had to clean those squids before they were ready to be used in the risotto. It was a funny coincidence that on the same evening of the class, some of the contestants on Masterchef also had to clean fresh squid.


The Seafood Risotto was made with clams, shrimp, mussels, calamari, and some red sauce, and I largely cooked the rice. This was probably the most complicated of the three dishes, because of the added prep, such as cleaning the squid, as well as the need to cook all of the seafood. Each component is not difficult, but you need to be well organized to be able to have everything ready at the proper time. This is the type of risotto that works well as a main dish.


As a special addition, we also learned how to prepare Arancini, rice balls. Each of us got to make an arancini, though Chef Pino cooked the prepared arancini for us. We began by preparing a half-sphere of saffron risotto and filled it with some Bolognese sauce and shredded cheese. Then we covered it with more risotto, shaping the result into a sphere. Afterward, it was rolled into a slurry mixture and then covered by panko. The first picture above shows the arancini before they were cooked. Again, this is a recipe that might seem difficult but it really wasn't.

After all of the preparation and cooking, we sat down at a large table together to enjoy the fruits of our labor. With glasses of wine, I ate some of all three risottos and one of the arancini, and everything was delicious. Each risotto was creamy and rich, yet possessed of its own unique flavors. If I had to choose one as my favorite, I probably would have to go with the mushroom risotto because of its explosion of umami.

I feel more confident about cooking risotto and will prepare it at home. It will probably take more trial and error at home, but I have taken some major steps in the right direction. This was a worthy cooking class and Chef Pino and Donato were fine instructors, making you feel comfortable in the kitchen and making it all fun as well as educational. I will likely take additional cooking classes at Lucia and strongly recommend that my readers do so as well.

Maybe I will try to make the Risotto with Four Cheeses, which contains Gruyère, Taleggio, Gorgonzola and Parmesan.

Monday, August 26, 2013

Rant: Wineries, Don't Assume It's Brand Loyalty

A woman makes her weekly stop at a local wine store, buying the same wine every time, a Yellow Tail Pinot Grigio. Every time a man wants to splurge on a higher end wine, he buys a bottle of Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon. To celebrate every special occasion, a woman purchases a bottle of Veuve Clicquot Champagne. Many people might assume that these three examples are indicative of brand loyalty, customers who intentionally support and choose to make repeated purchases of a specific product. However, what if it isn't really brand loyalty that is leading to their repeated purchases?

To marketers, wineries and others, brand loyalty is a significant attribute to their bottom line. Customers who are loyal to a specific brand tend to buy more of that product than anyone else, making them very important to a product's success. Such customers are often treated differently, if possible, to continue to make them happy. The problem is that a number of customers who make regular purchases are incorrectly labeled as "brand loyal." Instead, their purchasing actions are due rather to habit, and that is a much more fragile reason which needs to be addressed differently than if they were brand loyal.  

Neurobranding, by Peter Steidl, provides a fascinating look into consumer behavior, touching on important neuromarketing studies and research. And Steidl indicates that brand loyalty is vastly over estimated. "Too often we assume that consumers who regularly buy the same brand have a strong brand preference. However, most likely these consumers are engaging in habitual buying. They aren’t making purchase decisions but are simply repeating a behavior without giving it a second thought. This behavior is driven by their memories without any conscious intervention." In all three of the examples I provided, it could easily be said that they are buying by habit, not brand loyalty.

Steidl gives additional explanation of this issue. "Ehrenberg, the father of consumer panels, has proven again and again that repeat purchases are typically not a result of brand loyalty but of habit. True loyalty is based on consumers believing that the brand they buy is the best choice for them. Habitual buying means that the consumer doesn’t think about whether the product or brand is the best choice for them; they simply repeat past purchases. This suggests that the brand ‘works for them,’ but we cannot assume that they are loyal to it. Habitual buying allows consumers to simplify their lives by avoiding the need to spend many hours checking all options open to them with each purchase." How many of your own regular purchases are habitual rather than brand loyal? Steidl has an answer for that as well. "The truth is more like approximately 95% of grocery items are bought habitually."

Habitual purchasers are still important to brands, such as wineries. "Research undertaken by Nielsen shows that customers who purchase a brand eight times have a 97% likelihood of buying the brand a ninth time." It becomes so ingrained that it can be tough to change, especially as those consumers really don't think about their purchases. That is good for wineries, except it also can be dangerous as habitual buyers need to be treated differently than those who are brand loyal. If they are not, you may stand to lose those habitual buyers.

The main difference between habitual buyers and brand loyal customers is that the former does not think about their purchasing decision while the latter actively makes a conscious decision that their purchase is the best for them. That is a significant difference and marketing needs to address those differences. To avoid losing habitual buyers, Steidl states: "When consumers buy your brand on a habitual basis, you don’t want them to think about this purchase. If the consumer starts thinking consciously about the purchase, they may well also start to consider alternative brands and products." With brand loyal customers, you want them to think about their decisions, so you can see the how poses a dilemma to wineries.

What can cause a habitual buyer to think about their purchasing decision? "Any significant change in any aspect of your product – for example, its pricing, distribution or promotion – can activate the conscious mind, ..." For a mass brand like Yellow Tail, raising its price a dollar or more, could trigger a significant number of habitual buyers to reconsider and potentially move onto another brand. For the truly brand loyal, such a price change would stop very few of them from changing brands. Steidl also explains that: "Habits can be broken more easily when a change carries low risk, requires low effort and results in immediate rewards."

That also means that habitual buyers can change their habits due to numerous factors outside the control of wineries and marketers. For example, a wine store that has a wine tasting could make a habitual buyer reconsider their actions. A customer might buy the same Champagne all the time, until they taste a few different ones and find they like the taste of another better. Because they got to taste a different Champagne, the risk of change is low, takes no real effort and results in the reward of a wine they prefer more. Or a wine store might be temporarily out of a specific brand that a customer habitually buys, so that customer must think about choosing something else, which could break their habit.

It is safer for wineries to build brand loyalty rather than rely on habitual buyers. However, that also means that first such wineries need to realize that all repeat purchasers of their products do not possess brand loyalty. And that is something many wineries fail to understand, leading to marketing mistakes which ultimately cost them customers. Not all repeat purchasers are the same so treating them as if they were will only cause problems.

Wineries, do you know how many of your repeat purchasers actually possess brand loyalty and how many are merely habitual buyers?