More on the Origin of the Everything Bagel

Who created the Everything Bagel? It's an issue mired in contention, with several different individuals claiming to have invented it. The main problem is that none of the contenders have offered sufficient evidence to support their claims.

A couple weeks ago, I read an Atlas Obscura article, Everything You Need to Know About the True Origins of the Everything Bagel by Dan Nosowitz. I enjoy Atlas Obscura, as it often showcases fascinating stories and locations. In general, Nosowitz wrote a very good article on this topic, although his research missed some items. When I researched my own lengthy Bagel History article, I had plenty of extra information that never made it into the article. I thought the information might be useful for future articles, and some of that information dealt with the Everything Bagel.

Nosowitz wrote that the person who may have coined the term "everything bagel" was David Gussin. "By his own and most other accounts, that person was David Gussin. Around 1979 or 1980, he says, he was a teenager working at Charlie’s Bagels in the Howard Beach neighborhood of Queens, New York." Gussin's work included "...cleaning the oven, where excess bagel toppings accumulated when they fell off." And Gussin once said, “One day instead of throwing them out like I usually did, I gave them to Charlie and said, ‘Hey, make a bagel with these, we’ll call it the everything bagel.” Nosowitz then noted, "Soon, a shop across the street started selling their own everything bagels, and word slowly spread."

Gussin's claim as the inventor of the Everything Bagel was highlighted in an article in the New Yorker, March 10, 2008. However, this article stated, "Within a year, Gussin said, “the everything bagel was everywhere.” This contradicts the claim by Nosowitz that the Everything Bagel slowly spread. However, if Gussin is to be believed, then where is the evidence of the Everything Bagel spreading so far within a year of his alleged invention? It doesn't seem to exist.

In the Atlas Obscura article, Nosowitz stated, "The first mention I can find of the everything bagel is in a New York Times food column from 1988, and at that time the concept was new or niche or local enough that the writer felt it necessary to place “everything bagel” in quotes and define it." The New York Times, August 3, 1988, mentioned the recent opening of the Bagel Baron in Manhattan, and stated they sold an Everything Bagel. "The 'everything bagel' is dusted with salt, poppy seeds, sesame seeds, garlic and onion."

Why wouldn't the Everything Bagel have been mentioned previously if it were invented around 1979-1980, especially as Gussin claimed that it was soon everywhere within a year of its creation? Such a new offering would have been ripe for presenting in a bagel bakery advertisement. During my prior research, I found plenty of ads from bakeries and delis touting their new styles and flavors of bagels. It makes little sense that the first mention of the everything bagel in a newspaper would be 8 or 9 years after its invention.

However, there actually were newspaper mentions of the Everything Bagel prior to 1988, though they still don't provide support to Gussin's claims.

The above advertisement and coupon was from the Press and Sun-Bulletin (Binghampton, NY), December 7, 1984. It mentions that the Everything Bagel is "new," topped with sesame, poppy, onion, garlic and salt. None of their prior advertisements mentioned this type of bagel. This was the earliest reference that I have found, four years before 1998, though it is possible older references may exist as well.

I next found a reference from an advertisement for a New Jersey bagel spot in The Record (Hackensack, NJ), April 13, 1986. This indicates that the Everything Bagel had already spread past New York, so no longer was just a local item. This ad though doesn't explain what was on their Everything Bagel.

Another mention was in the San Francisco Chronicle, November 11, 1987, in an article titled, "A Bagel-Lover's Guide To the Bay Area." At Holey Bagel, at 3218 Fillmore Street, they produce 16 varieties of bagels, including an "everything" bagel, with poppy, sesame, onion, garlic, caraway, and salt.

The next mention was in The Long Island News & the Owl, June 23, 1988, which published an ad for The Bagel Boys, listing an Everything Bagel. Again, there is no description of the toppings in this bagel.

The Herald News (NJ), August 3, 1988, printed a review of a store, Wanna Bagel, which also sold an Everything Bagel, with 5 toppings, though they were mentioned. Again, we see these bagels being sold outside of New York.

And though the following references occur after the article in the New York Times, August 3, 1988, they are relevant to the issue at hand. The Baltimore Sun, October 9, 1988, published an article and review about "bagels and....," a bagel shop located in Annapolis. They sold an Everything Bagel, noting it is  "full of seeds and no salt." Obviously the idea of this bagel has continued to spread, to Maryland, though it's curious that there isn't any salt on it.

And it continued to spread, all the way to Florida. The Tampa Tribune, June 16, 1989 wrote about a Clearwater bagel bakery, the New York Bagel Boys, which sold an Everything Bagels with dried onion, garlic, sesame and poppy seed. Again, no salt was listed as an ingredient. And the Green-Bay Press Gazette (Wisconsin), March 27, 1991, mentioned a local bagel shop making an Everything Bagel topped with poppy, caraway, and sesame seeds, onion and garlic.

So, the first newspaper reference to the Everything Bagel is actually at least from 1984, and during the 1980s, this bagel spread to places including New Jersey, Maryland, and Florida. Without any supporting evidence, I remain skeptical of David Gussin's claim that he coined the term "everything bagel." And I also remain skeptical of the other claimants to its creation as they too lack evidence supporting their claims. We may never know who invented this bagel and coined its name.

Kamakura & Kumo Sky Bar: A Passion For Japanese Drinks

Chilled Sake, Warm Sake, Shochu, Japanese Koshu wine, Japanese Whiskey, Japanese beer, Japanese-inspired cocktails. There are very few local restaurants or bars which offer nearly all of these choices, and only one place that offers all of them.

That restaurant is Kamakura, located at 150 State Street in Boston. Chef Youji Iwakura has created a compelling Japanese restaurant, offering his take on Kaiseki (basically a seasonal tasting menu) as well as a la carte choices, Bento Boxes, Sushi Omakase, and more. Dining there is a superb experience with some of the finest Japanese cuisine available in the area. The restaurant is spread out over three stories, with the top story being their Kumo Sky Bar & Lounge.

I recently attended a media cocktail party at their Kumo Sky Bar, though I have also visited the bar previously on my own. The bar has about 26 seats, with several seats looking out into the city, a number of seats at the bar, and a number of small tables. This bar has a 400-square foot, retractable glass roof, which should get plenty of use this summer, and presents quite a great view during both day and night. "Kumo" is the Japanese word for "cloud," and with its retractable roof, you certainly get a nice view of the clouds when they are in the sky,

It is an intimate room, and can be booked for special events. It is also a great place to just grab a drink and a snack any night.

The Drinks program at Kamakura, which is available throughout the restaurant including the Kumo Sky Bar, is strong on Japanese beverages, offering much that is delicious, interesting and unique. This is a great place to expand your palate, to sample exciting new drinks you know little about. The staff at Kamakura can help educate you about these drinks, and provide plenty of suggestions for you. And for those who are already familiar with these Japanese drinks, you'll find some more unique items to thrill your palate.

They have a list of ten Featured Cocktails, priced $13-$18, with one outlier at $34. The cocktails change seasonally and all have a Japanese aspect to them, whether it is the main spirit or one of the ingredients. A few of the cocktails include the John Manjiro (Iwai Whisky, Choya, Cherry, $14), Murasaki (Empress 1908 Gin, Sake, Floral Vermouth, $16) and Shoyu What I Got (Blanco Tequila, Mezcal, Choya, Sea Fennel, Aged Shoyu, Orange Bitters, $14). Aged shoyu? How many cocktails have you ever seen that use soy sauce as an ingredient? Choya is Japanese plum wine. I like the innovativeness of these cocktails. Most of the media at the cocktail party ordered cocktails, and I heard many compliments about their taste.

If you'd prefer a Non-Alcoholic Cocktail, they have three choices, all priced $10 each. You could opt for a Matcha Tonic (Matcha, Simple Syrup, Tonic Water), Cucumber Rickey (Fresh Cucumber Juice, Lime, Spritz), or a Lychee Collins (Lychee syrup, Soda, Citrus).

Of course they have a Sake menu, both by the glass and by the bottle. There are about 15 selections by the glass, broken down into two main categories: Junmai and Honjozo, the primary divisions of Premium Sake. There is also a single American-produced Sake. The Sake by the glass is available as a 4 ounce ($11-$35) or 6 ounce ($16-$52) pour. They also offer Junmai and Honjozo flights, each with 3 Sakes, for $38, which is an excellent way to sample a variety of Sakes. A few of the interesting Sakes I'd recommend include the Yuho Junmai Kimoto, Katsuyama Ken Junmai Ginjo, and Musashino Nyukon Tokubetsu Honjozo. You'll also find one Sake on tap, the Bushido Ginjo Genshu, 4-oz $12/6-oz $18, which I've enjoyed on a previous visit.

There are about 21 options for Sake by the Bottle, which come in various sizes such as 300ml, 500ml, and 720ml. About 60% of the options cost less than $100 a bottle, though you could splurge as well on the Hideyoshi "Flying Pegasus" Daiginjo at $560/720ml. You could opt to celebrate with some Sparkling Sake, such as the Dassai Sparkling Junmai Nigori ($62/360ml), which is one of my favorite Sparkling Sakes. The Hakkaisan Snow Aged Junmai Ginjo ($140/720ml) is a hedonistic pleasure I've previously reviewed.

A couple months ago, I recommended that people drink more Warm Sake, and Kamakura is a great place to experience it. They have 5 choices of Warm Sake, available in 5 ounce ($14-32) or 10 ounce ($28-$64) chirori, metal vessels. They serve the Sakes at what they suggest as the ideal temperature, from 104 to 113 degrees, but you can ask for a specific temperature if you so desire.

Of their five options, my favorite is the Shinkame "Holy Turtle" Tokubetsu Junmai, 2 year aged (5 oz $20/10 oz $40). Yoshimasa Ogawahara is the 7th generation owner of Shinkame Shuzo, a Sake brewery located in the Saitama Prefecture. I have the privilege to meet and interview him back in 2014. He told me that Sake is the only alcohol in the world where the taste varies according to a wide variety of temperatures, both hot and cold. He also stated that warm Sake pairs well with a diversity of cuisines and not just Japanese. During the cocktail party, I once again enjoyed some of the warm Shinkame and highly recommend it as an experience more people should try.

Kamakura has a small Wine List, with about 12 options, including 10 available by the glass ($12-$22). The options include 3 Sparkling Wines (all French), 4 Whites, 1 Rosé, and 4 Reds. Of the 12 wines, 7 are from France, 2 from California, 1 from Germany, 1 from Washington, and 1 from Japan. The wines aren't the usual suspects, and present some interesting and classic choices, from German Riesling to French Rhone wines.

What is unique though is that they carry a Japanese wine, the 2017 Chateau Mercian Yamanashi Koshu (glass $19/ bottle $76), and they are the only restaurant in Massachusetts to carry this wine. Nine years ago, I attended a tasting of Japanese Koshu wines at Uni, and that was also the first time I met Chef Youji Iwakura. You can read my previous article for more information about the Koshu grape. This was an excellent summer wine, with plenty of acidity, bright citrus and peach notes, a streak of mineralogy, and a pleasing and fairly lengthy finish. There was a mild richness to the wine as well as a touch of salinity. This would pair great with seafood, including raw oysters. Highly recommended!

Their Beer list is also small, with a rotating selection of Draft Beer, including the Lamplighter ($9).  By the bottle/can, they have 3 Japanese beers, including the Orion ($8), Koshihikari ($11), and Ginga-Kogen ($16).

Check out their list of Featured Spirits which includes some local options, like Bully Boy (vodka, gin and rum) as well as Japanese Gin (Nikka Coffey and Ki No Bi Kyoto), which is the hot new alcohol coming out of Japan. They also have about 10 Japanese Whiskies, and you can order a Flight of 3 for $35. I enjoyed a glass of the Nikka Miyagikyo Single Malt, a fine sipping whiskey with fruity notes, a hint of smoke, subtle spice notes, and a noticeable influence of Sherry.

Kamakura also has a menu of Shochu, a distilled Japanese alcohol, with 6 options and you can order a Flight of 3 for $18. Most of their Shochu selections are made from sweet potato, which is often considered to be the ingredients that makes the best Shochu. My favorite on their list is the Tenshi no Yuwaku, 8 Year ($21), made from 83% Sweet Potato and 17% Rice. It was fermented in Sherry casks for about 8 years, which is rare as few Shochu are ever aged this long. It's name translates as "Angel's Temptation," a reference to the Angel's Share, the amount of spirit that evaporates over time while it ages in a barrel. I enjoyed it neat, finding it rich, creamy and smooth, with intense Sherry notes, hints of sweetness, and plenty of complexity. This is the first time I've seen this Shochu available in a Massachusetts restaurant. Highly recommended!

To sample what Kamakura has to offer, rather than opting for the multi-course Kaiseki dinner, you can always check out the Kumo Sky Bar to have drinks and small plates. You'll have a great view of the city while enjoying a large variety of Japanese drinks. Be adventurous and try some Japanese Koshu wine, aged Shochu, warm Sake, or a premium chilled Sake.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Beginning July 9th, the Forge & Vine at The Groton Inn launches a Summer event series, including the following three events:

Beer Garden at Gibbet Hill Featuring Lone Pine Brewing Company
Tuesday, July 9th, from 5pm-7pm.
Cost: $45/person - includes pint glass to take home. You receive 4 beers with a selection of 6 small plates.
For one night only, Forge & Vine will convert its outdoor green overlooking picturesque Gibbet Hill into a lively Beer Garden courtesy of Portland, Maine’s Lone Pine Brewing Company. For $45 per person, guests can play corn hole while enjoying a selection of small plates by Executive Chef Patrick Basset and a sampling of four different seasonal brews - including The Brightside IPA, T-Shirt Cannon IPA, The Portland Pale Ale and Tess Ellation Double IPA. Small plates include classic Bavarian Beer Garden favorites like Soft Pretzels with honey mustard, Bacon Beer Cheese Profiteroles and an IPA Vanilla Cupcake. In addition, guests will take home a signature Long Pine Brewery pint glass.

Spiked Seltzer Fiesta on the Green Featuring High Noon Hard Seltzer
Tuesday, July 16th, from 5pm-7pm
Cost: $25/person - including spiked seltzer tasting and 5 small plates
As we head into the heat of the summer, Forge & Vine invites diners to cool off on the green with a complementary refreshing (and fizzy!) tasting of ice cold Spiked Seltzer courtesy of High Noon Hard Seltzer. For $25, guests will enjoy a selection of small plates such as Jerk Chicken with a pineapple salsa, Shrimp Ceviche and a Passion Fruit Pannacotta with a sampling of the brand’s line of Sun Sip Vodka Sodas including grapefruit, pineapple, black cherry and watermelon - a great way to chill out and toast the summer with friends and neighbors.

Four Seasons Wine Dinner by Carolina Wine & Spirits
Thursday, July 25th, from 6pm-8pm
Cost: Four-Courses including wine - $85/person
Forge & Vine invites diners to join them on the beautiful Four Seasons patio for a four-course seasonal wine dinner hosted by Carolina Wine & Spirits. Led by Carolina Wine Specialist Sue Nordberg, guests will explore and learn about a selection of seasonal wines paired with four-courses crafted by Executive Chef Patrick Bassett. See below for the full menu with list of pairings. *pairings subject to change*

Menu
Spicy Tomato Gazpacho (Jonah Crab Salad, Heirloom Tomatoes, Basil Oil)
Domaine LaRoque Rosé, France
Roasted Beet Tartare (Aged Balsamic, Ricotta Salata, Orange)
Wither Hills Pinot Noir, New Zealand
Potato Crusted Halibut (Summer Vegetable Ratatouille, Wilted Farm Greens, Fire Roasted Tomato Vinaigrette)
MacRostie Chardonnay, California
Dessert
Sweet Corn Cake (Grilled Peaches, Whipped Sorghum, Candied Bacon)
Ascheri Moscato d’Asti, Italy

For more info on Forge & Vine, check out my prior review.

A History of Sake Brewing In Brazil

It's fascinating to realize that the largest Japanese population outside of their country is located in Brazil. After Japan and Brazil signed a treaty in 1907, permitting Japanese immigration, about 800 Japanese, many of them farmers, arrived the next year by ship, aboard the Kasato Maru. A significant number of the immigrants obtained jobs working on or even owning coffee plantations. After World War I, there was a large boom in Japanese immigration to Brazil, most settling in São Paulo, the location of the majority of coffee plantations.

From the start, the immigrants brought food from Japan, and likely Sake, with them and soon enough, these items could be imported into Brazil. There is some indication that at least by the early 1920s, there were Japanese brewers in Brazil who were producing Sake, miso, and soy sauce. However, the only producer of note appears to be Tozan Farm, possibly because of the difficulty of brewing Sake in the heat of Brazil, the same type of problems that were faced by the Sake brewers in Hawaii. However, though brewers in Hawaii eventually found technological ways to adjust to the climate, it doesn't seem brewers in Brazil were as innovative. I should also note that Sake in Brazil is sometimes referred to as "Saquê."

The farm, which would later be renamed Tozan, was located in the province of Campinas outside São Paulo and originally was owned, in the early 19th century, by Floriano de Camargo Peneado who primarily grew sugarcane. In 1854, his son took over the farm, expanding it to include corn, rice, and coffee, with coffee taking on a more prominent role in the coming years.

In 1927, the Iwasaki family purchased the farm, renaming it "Tozan," which means "Eastern Mountain." In addition, "Tozan" was a pseudonym for Mitsubishi founder, Yataro Iwasaki, and his hobby of poetry writing. Hisaya Iwasaki, the third president of Mitsubishi and son of the founder, took over control of the Tozan Farm. In 1934, they started a Sake brewery. and their first Sake brands were Azuma Kirin and Azuma Otori.

It's been difficult to find information about Sake in Brazil after this time, until the 1970s. However, we do know that the Sake brewery continued to produce Sake throughout those years. In 1975, Kirin Holdings acquired a portion of the Tozan company and their holding company became known as Azuma Kirin, mostly responsible for Sake production. At some point, Kirin Holdings owned 89% of Tozan, the rest owned by Toru Iwasaki, the great-grandson of the founder of the company. In July 2016, Kirin Holdings purchased the outstanding shares owned by Iwasaki and they now control 100% of the Tozan company. They have now combined Tozan and Azuma into a single entity, Azuma Kirin Company.

In the Folha De S. Paolo, January 29, 1976, there was an advertisement for Azuma Kirin Sake, made by the Industria Agricola Tozan, S.A., Rua Galvao Bueno, 212, Sao Paolo. The ad mentions that you can create a Caipirinha de Saque, the traditional Brazilian cocktail made with cachaça, sugar, and lime, by substituting the Sake for the cachaça.

Azuma and Tozan currently produce approximately 65 products, including Sake and Japanese food products, with Sake accounting for 35% of their business. It is also alleged that their Sake constitutes about 70% of the market in Brazil, making them the top Sake brewery in Brazil. Kirin will now modernize their Sake distillery, release a new logo for the Sake brand, and engage in a new marketing campaign.

Information on other Sake breweries in Brazil isn't easy to find, and most that exist seem to have been started within the last ten years. Maybe the second largest Sake brewery in Brazil is Sakeria Thikara, which was established in January 2009 by Paolo Busch in the city of Piedade, São Paulo. The term "Thikara" essentially means strength and the brewery embraces an ancient Japanese legend of the Koi, Japanese carp, and this there is a carp on their bottles.

They produce two brands, the Gold and Silver (including a Kosher variety), which are both Honjozo, and use imported Japanese rice. Honjozo means that they add some distilled alcohol to the Sake to draw out certain aromas and flavors. The Sake is available in a 745ml bottle, 187ml bottle, and a 5 liter box. They sell their Sake in Brazil and also export to a few other South American countries.

The Destillaria Stoliskoff, which was established in 2007 in the city of São Roque, São Paulo, produces a variety of spirits including rum, whiskey and vodka. They also make two Sake products, the Sake Fuji and the Sakerita. Their website has very little information about the Sake Fuji, so it is unclear whether it is a premium Sake or futsu-shu. The Sakerita, which only has a 7% ABV, blends their Sake Fuji with tropical fruits, and three versions are available: Pineapple, Kiwi and Strawberry.

Through a Brazilian alcohol store website, Imigrantes Bebidas, you can note that there are a few other Sakes produced in Brazil, yet finding additional information about these brands is difficult. You can find entries for Sake Okinawa, Sake Ryo (which might be a honjozo), Sake Jun Daiti (which is connected to Diageo and is noted only as "bottled" in Brazil so might have originated elsewhere), and
Sake Sakeih.

If anyone has any additional information about Sake in Brazil, please contact me. Thanks.

(The original version of this article was posted in September 2016, and has been expansion and revised due to additional research.)

Rant: Don't Ignore The Pizza & Pasta Buffet

An All-You-Can-Eat Pizza & Pasta Buffet for only $8! It's one of the best deals north of Boston yet  it's rare that you see anyone writing about it.

Why not? Maybe because it isn't a new restaurant and the buffet isn't new either. However, we shouldn't ignore writing about such excellent deals, despite the fact they aren't new and shiny.  As I've said before, food writers tend to write primarily about the new restaurants, ignoring so many good restaurants that have stood the test of time. We need to highlight these older restaurants which still are worthy of our attention.

For 58 years, Prince Pizzeria has been serving pizza on Route 1 in Saugus. If you grew up in the area like I did, you probably visited Prince as a child. I've never stopped going there either, and still regularly dine there for lunch. I go for their pizza & pasta buffet and think it's an excellent deal. For $8, you get all-you-can-eat ziti, marinara sauce, garlic bread, pizza and dessert pizza. Ten years ago, in 2009, the buffet was $5, so the price has only increased a relatively small amount since that time. The buffet is available Monday through Friday, from 11:30am-2pm.

At any one time, there are five different pizzas on the buffet, including a cheese pizza, a couple meat pizzas (like sausage or pepperoni), and veggie pizzas. As soon as a pizza is gone, it's quickly replaced. Their pizza is more unique, and doesn't easily fit into any of the usual pizza categories. It's not Greek pizza or bar pizza, it's not Chicago deep deep or Neapolitan.

When I dine there, owner Steven Castraberti is usually at the restaurant. ensuring everything runs smoothly. He's not some absentee owner, but a man with a passion for his restaurant, a man who takes an active role in its success. The longevity of the restaurant, when so many other restaurants on Rt. 1 have closed over the years, is a testament to the family's dedication.

If you haven't been to Prince Pizzeria in a long time, if at all, then please check it out, especially for their lunch buffet. Hopefully, we will see more food writers too highlighting older restaurants which still are worthy of our attention and patronage. Prince's buffet isn't fancy or exotic. It's just delicious food at a very reasonable price. Maybe I'll see you there!