Monday, June 8, 2015

Rant: Restaurant Reviews Ignoring Deadly Service?

There's an aspect of restaurant service with the potential to kill millions of people. Despite its importance, almost no restaurant review addresses this issue. Why not? Shouldn't a review discuss such a vital element? How can we better protect those millions of people who are at risk?

Recently on Facebook, Jacqueline Church raised an intriguing question: "Can/should a restaurant be "top" if they get a potentially life-threatening thing like food allergen handling wrong AND dismiss it cavalierly?" Jacqueline has food allergies, along with about 15 million people, so this is a matter absolutely vital to her health. She has written numerous articles about food allergies, and also trains restaurants in allergy awareness and handling. Her question made me ponder the issue, and realize my own restaurant reviews fail to address this issue.

It is rare to see any restaurant review which addresses whether a restaurant properly handles food allergies or not. About the only time that happens is when the reviewer has food allergies so is particularly aware of that issue. How a restaurant handles allergy issues is an important aspect of service, yet it is part of service that has largely been ignored so far by most restaurant reviewers. To answer Jacqueline;'s question, I don't believe a restaurant can be considered one of the "top" or "best" if it screws up allergy handling.

If that is the case, then we need to consider whether restaurant reviews should routinely address this issue or not. First, numerous restaurant reviews have length limitations so it can be a challenge to include absolutely every relevant issue. Is this an issue so important that it should be included? Second, how many reviewers properly understand the issue of allergies and can accurately assess the situation at a restaurant? I'm willing to bet that many reviewers fail to grasp the complete situation and could use some education in this regard. Third, if most restaurant reviews ignore the issue of food allergies, where can people go for that information?

Though it would be beneficial for most restaurant reviews to address this issue, maybe a matter of such vital importance, a potential life threatening matter, would be better served by a different forum. Would you want to rely upon a single line in a published restaurant review mentioning that the restaurant handles allergies well? Or would you prefer a more detailed explanation of how the restaurant addressed food allergies? I think the latter would be far more useful.

Maybe a better solution would be to have a website dedicated to reviews of how restaurants handle food allergies. It would be better to have knowledgeable individuals discuss the specifics, to provide the necessary details for those at risk. There have been a few articles, published over the last few years, providing lists of restaurants which best handle food allergies, but I'm unaware of any central website that reviews Boston area restaurants about these matters. It would be great to see more articles in the future too, but there is still a need for such a central website.

Your thoughts?

Thursday, June 4, 2015

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.. **********************************************************
1) Boston’s Taste of the Nation for No Kid Hungry, a Culinary Event for a Cause, returns on June 9. A number of Boston area’s chefs, restaurateurs and mixologists will join forces to help end childhood hunger. Share Our Strength Founder and CEO Billy Shore; Taste of the Nation’s Distinguished Chef Council which includes: Gordon Hammersley, Tony Maws, Joanne Chang, Jodi Adams, Jason Santos, Andy Husbands, Michael Scelfo, Mary Dumont and Brian Poe.  

Some of this year’s participating restaurants include: Lincoln Tavern, Belly Wine Bar, Craigie on Main, Abby Lane, Tremont 647, Bistro du Midi, Bergamot, Alden and Harlow, Sweet Cheeks Q, Ribelle, Loyal Nine, TRADE, Tico, West Bridge, Davio’s, Grill 23, Harvest, 80 Thoreau and Fairstead Kitchen.

Proceeds from the event benefit No Kid Hungry’s work to end childhood hunger in America. Led by a distinguished Chef Council, Boston’s culinary tastemakers will provide guests with bite-size fare, craft cocktails, and desserts of all kinds. One in five children in this country struggles with hunger, including more than 270,000 kids in MA. No Kid Hungry is ending childhood hunger in this nation by ensuring that kids start the day with a nutritious breakfast and families learn the skills they need to shop and cook on a budget. In 2014, Boston’s Taste of the Nation for No Kid Hungry raised $123,000 to help feed children in need more than 1,230,000 healthy meals.

WHEN: Tuesday, June 9, from 7pm to  9:30p,  VIP Admission starts at 6pm.
WHERE: Cruiseport Boston, One Black Falcon Avenue, Boston
COST: Tickets are $95 for General Admission and $150 for VIP admission. Tickets can be purchased by logging onto www.nokidhungry.org/boston.

2) Puritan & Company Wine Director, Peter Nelson, is changing things up a bit with a dine-around and sip-around event for the next Wine Wednesday which takes place on Wednesday, July 1st. Guests are invited to say “Yes Way, Rosé!” where they can mix, mingle and sample at this celebration of the pink-hued wines.

Passed appetizers and small plates will be paired with a selection of 15 Rosé wines to make this event a little more special than most. This is a perfect way to taste a bunch of Rosé and find your favorites for the summer.

Tickets are $65 and can be reserved by calling 617-615-6195 or logging onto www.picatic.com/roserumble.

3) Do you love cheese? And really, who doesn't? The American Cheese Society is holding Cheese Camp 2015 in Providence, Rhode Island, from Wednesday, July 29 to Saturday, August 1. This is a large educational conference and world-renowned cheese competition, and this is the first year in almost ten years that it has been held in New England. There is much for the cheese industry and food professionals but there are also events that will appeal to the general public.

Check out the Festival of Cheese, which is open to the public on Saturday, August 1, from 7pm-9pm, and will feature over 1600 American artisan cheeses that were entered in the 2015 Judging and Competition. In addition to all of these cheeses, guests will also get to try a wide array of specialty accompaniments from preserves to chocolate to wine and craft beer. All guests will get a commemorative wine glass and cocktail plate. Tickets are $60 per person, with all proceeds going to the American Cheese Society’s cheesemaker scholarships.

All of the remaining cheese will be sold at the Cheese Sale on Sunday morning from 9am-1 pm. Entry is free, and will be a great opportunity to purchase rare artisan cheeses from across the country at incredible prices.

Individuals or groups can also volunteer from July 23 through August 2, 2015. Volunteers can assist with many aspects of ACS’s events, including but not limited to: volunteering with the renowned ACS Judging & Competition; assisting at the Conference registration desk; preparing cheeses for educational tasting sessions and sponsored events; and helping to set up the Festival of Cheese .

Volunteers receive an official “ACS Cheese Camp Counselor” t-shirt, a ticket to the Festival of Cheese on Saturday, August 1 ($60 value), and any meals that coincide with their shift(s). Volunteers may purchase additional tickets to the Festival of Cheese at a discount. Shifts vary in length. Volunteers must be age 18 or older.

Sign up to volunteer for ACS Cheese Camp 2015 in Providence at www.shiftboard.com/cheesesociety.
For more information about volunteer opportunities, please contact Jeff Yeager at 720-328-2788 or jyeager@cheesesociety.org.

Monday, June 1, 2015

Rant: Summer Dining Is Needed

We had a brutal winter, with record amounts of snow, which kept many of us from leaving our homes and dining out at local restaurants. There were multiple snow emergencies when the ;public was supposed to remain home and off the roads. Many businesses had to close for at least a few days and as I mentioned this past February, this caused numerous restaurants to suffer financially. Those losses are not easy to make up, and require our assistance.

My advice then was simple and it remains the same right now: Dine out more.

With the improving weather, and summer around the corner, you have no excuse not to dine out at a local restaurant. You can sit at one of the many patios or enjoy one of their summer specials. You can enjoy some fried clams or a lobster roll, or maybe a fresh Sangria or summery cocktail. You have plenty of choices, a wide range of cuisines, and there isn't any snow to impede driving or parking. With pleasant weather, it's great to walk around the Boston area, exploring the various neighbors, and checking out restaurants, food trucks and more.

Why is this necessary? Well, if you don't give your added support to restaurants at this time, then don't be surprised if your favorite places might have to shut down. For many restaurants, especially the smaller ones, their profit margins can be small so that the lack of business during those snowy months hurt them significantly and they need this time to try to recoup their losses. Your patronage is needed now to help all of these restaurants to recover from a brutal winter. They need to have a better summer business than  normal.

Now that the snow is gone, it's easy for people to forget about how it affected local restaurants. Memories can be short but I want to remind people who might have forgotten. Restaurants benefit our communities in many significant ways and deserve our support. We need to make the restaurant industry have one of their best summers ever, rewarding the chefs and servers, kitchen  staff and support staff. We need to give them our business so they can continue to stay in business.

Dine out more.

It couldn't be any more simple. And it's a pleasant experience. Check out new restaurants and don't forget old favorites. I know we can do it.

Friday, May 29, 2015

Sapporo Ramen: Tan Tan Men

For inexpensive Japanese food in Cambridge, I often stop by the Asian food court in the Porter Exchange, located in Porter Square. You'll find seven Asian restaurants there, as well as an outpost of the Japonaise Bakery (though it is currently temporarily closed), Six of those restaurants are small, generally with less than ten tables, and during busy hours, you might have to wait a short time in line. However, the food is worth the wait, cheap and tasty.

Often, I opt for Tampopo, which has a diverse menu of options, including excellent Tempura, moist Chicken Kara-age, ample Rice Bowls, and more. Recently though, I saw a review, by Marc of Boston's Hidden Restaurants, which mentioned Tan Tan Men at Sapporo Ramen at the Porter Exchange. His photo of the dish looked appealing and intrigued me enough to check it out. I've now eaten the dish twice, and it was consistently delicious each time.    

Sapporo Ramen is a Japanese noodle house which specializes in ramen, noting that "Our broth is made from chicken and fresh vegetables boiled over high heat for more than 10 hours and served with premium wave noodles." You can order their House Ramen, Miso Ramen, Soy Sauce Ramen, Curry Ramen, Vegetarian Ramen and more, with most options costing under $10. With your ramen, you can choose a number of options, for a small additional fee, such as extra noodles, ground pork, extra veggies, extra seafood, a butter cube and more. You can order a few appetizers as well, from Gyoza to Shumai, and a few other entrees, sich as Kara-Age or Katsu.

I opted for the Tan Tan Men (pictured above), a sesame flavored soup, with wave noodles (thick egg noodles), and topped with spicy ground pork & scallions. This dish is a Japanese version of Dan Dan Noodles, aka Dandanmian, a specialty of Sichuan cuisine. Dan Dan noodles are also known as "peddler's noodles" and the term "dan dan" refers to a "carrying pole." Peddlers used to carry the pole with baskets for the noodles and sauce. They were a cheap and popular street food.

Basically, the dish consisted of a spicy sauce over noodles, and may also have vegetables and minced pork. Somehow, when the dish was adopted by the Japanese, sesame  paste was often added to the dish, helping to mute some of the spicy heat of the original Sichuan dish. If you search online for Tan Tan Men recipes, you'll find plenty of variations.

At Sapporo Ramen, the dish is basically just soup, noodles, ground pork and scallions without any other veggies or seaweed. That doesn't mean though that it is light on flavor. It is a rich and savory soup, with spicy heat, nutty accents, and plenty of umami. Each sip of the soup bursts with complex flavors. The ground pork adds a meaty element, and helps to boost the umami, while the noddles add some firm texture. The bowl is large and hearty, and you might even need to take some home with you if you don't finish it all.

It's worth visiting Sapporo Ramen just to enjoy Tan Tan Men, though I'm sure you'll also want to check out their other Ramen dishes.

Thursday, May 28, 2015

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.. **********************************************************
1) Opening on Saturday, May 30, the new BISq (Bergamot Inman Square) is coming to Inman Square. "BISq will focus on eclectic small plates, an innovative charcuterie program and a compelling beer and wine list selection."  The team behind Bergamot, one of my favorite restaurants, is introducing this 49-seat restaurant which will also feature two bars; one with a charcuterie bar and the other a beverage bar.

BISq and Bergamot’s Wine Director, Kai Gagnon, has created a thoughtful and inventive wine and beer program to perfectly compliment the diverse cuisine that will be developed by BISq Executive Chef Dan Bazzinotti. Chef Bazzinotti will oversee the kitchen at BISq as the Executive Chef with Chef/Owner Keith Pooler also sharing his time between both locations.

Kai plans on utilizing his sabrage skills at BISq on certain nights to commence service. The featured wines that Kai will be including on the wine list include those of Northern France, Germany and Austria. A majority of the wine list will focus on the Loire Valley.

The BISq menu which has been created by Bazzinotti includes small plates with a focus on his charcuterie program. Some of the charcuterie menu highlights will include: creole calf liver mousse, chicken rillettes, kabanosy, and betty’s mazzafegati.  Some of the menu standouts include: lemon corzetti, lamb ribs, green gazpacho, grilled nectarines, and creole beignets.

The dessert menu, prepared by Bergamot Pastry Chef Kelcey Rusch, will have a daily selection of individual trifles. There will be three options nightly- one with chocolate, one with fruit (such as the orange-vanilla pudding with ramazotti soaked cake and toasted almonds) and one that has an eggy base.

After five very successful years of operating Bergamot, my team and I were ready for another challenge. I am so grateful for such a talented and creative group that surrounds me, and I want to make sure that they are always able to grow and broaden their capabilities while they are part of my team,” said Pooler. “That is why we created BISq together. It showcases Kai’s passion for wine and beer, Dan’s expertise with Charcuterie, and it offers Servio another opportunity to lead the front-of-the-house staff and engage new guests.”

.I'm very much looking forward to checking out BISq.

2) The Legal Sea Foods in Cambridge’s Charles Square is lining up special summer eats, from June to August, at its expansive al fresco Terrace Bar situated in front of the Charles Hotel.

June: All You Can Eat Fish Fry
--Crispy Fried Haddock - French fries and cole slaw ($18)
July: All American Hot Dog Bar
--One Dog ($5)
--Three Dog Sampler Board ($15)
--Sonora “Bacon Wrapped a la Plancha” - grilled onions, tomatoes, jalapeño relish
--Chicago Vienna Beef Dog “Dragged Through the Garden” - tomato wedge, piccalilli, pepperoncini, dill pickle, mustard
--New Jersey Thuman’s Dog "Ripper Style" - crispy fried "rutts style" relish, steamed bun
--NY Sabrett All Beef Hot Dog - sauerkraut, sweet onions in tomato, brown mustard
--Rhode Island Little Rhody Brand "Hot Weiner" - diced onions, meat sauce, yellow mustard, steamed bun
August: Souped Up Gazpacho Bar
--One cup ($6)
--Gazpacho Trio ($15)
· Red - tomato w/ veggies and tortilla strips
· Green - cucumber, Greek yogurt, avocado
· Yellow - cantaloupe, crème fraîche, EVOO
· White - almonds, sherry vinegar, grapes
Toppings ($3 each)
· Sweet Maine Crab Meat
· Pickled Texas Shrimp
· Squid Escabeche
· Saffron Poached Mussels
· Cajun Flaked Salmon
· Pickled Papaya
· Mango Salsa

3) On Tuesday, June 16, at 6:30pm,  Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with Leeuwin Estate. Leeuwin Estate is one of the founding wineries of the now famous Margaret River district of Western Australia. In 1972, legendary Napa Valley winemaker, Robert Mondavi, first identified the future site of the Leeuwin vineyard as being ideal for the production of premium wine and provided early mentorship to Denis and Tricia Horgan who founded Leeuwin Estate in 1974. Maintaining a team of highly skilled and dedicated winemakers, Leeuwin Estate is currently under the direction of two generations of the founding family and continues to churn out world-class wines with distinct flavors.

Legal Sea Foods will team up with Leeuwin’s Joint Chief Executive, Simone Furlong, to host a four-plus-course dinner paired with his selections from the Leeuwin Estate vine. The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Oysters on the Half Shell, Melon Granita, Grapefruit Pearls
Foie Gras Torchon, Brioche Toast Points, Peach Jam
Tempura Cauliflower Florets, Citrus & Cilantro Marmalade
Leeuwin Estate “Art Series” Sauvignon Blanc, Margaret River, 2013
FIRST COURSE
Butter-Poached Turbot Fillet (Confetti Cous Cous Salad, Lemon-Dill Gremolata)
Leeuwin Estate “Siblings” Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, Margaret River, 2012
SECOND COURSE
Grilled California Wild King Salmon (Grilled Mango Salsa, Sultana & Cashew Rice Pilaf)
Leeuwin Estate “Prelude Vineyards” Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2011
Leeuwin Estate “Art Series” Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2011
THIRD COURSE
Beef Bourguignon (Yukon Gold Pearl Potatoes, Fried Ramps)
Leeuwin Estate “Prelude Vineyards” Cabernet Merlot, Margaret River, 2007
Leeuwin Estate “Art Series” Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, 2008
CHEESE COURSE
Private Stock Cheddar, Aged Gouda, Manchego (Toast Points, Raspberry-Thyme Jam)
Leeuwin Estate “Art Series” Shiraz, Margaret River, 2011

COST: $85 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservations required by calling 617-530-9397

4) On Wednesday, June 10, from 6:30PM to 8:30PM, the Wine ConneXtion, located in North Andover, invites guests to explore the tastes of American bourbons and whiskeys, at its complimentary “All American Spirits” tasting. At this special tasting the experts at The Wine ConneXtion will be pouring a selection of upscale American bourbons and whiskeys barreled in the USA including one from Boston’s own backyard. Names such as Whistle Pig, Eagle Rare and South Boston Irish Whiskey are just a few of the great spirits to be poured at this tasting.

Tastings are complimentary and open to the public, 21+ only. I was at their last whiskey tasting and it was an excellent event with plenty of delicious whiskey available to sample. This event should be just as good so check it out.

5) After 17 years in business, Chef/Owner Deborah Hansen of Taberna de Haro, in Brookline, has decided to open on Sundays. She will serve Brunch every Sunday from 12pm-4pm and then their regular menu from 4pm-8pm. Brunch sounds like a great idea and the menu is very compelling.

Some of the highlights of their Brunch menu include:

Churros y chocolate $10
Long fritters & thick hot chocolate
Beicon y huevos $12
Thick bacon, fried eggs, fries, griddled tomato, and thick toast
Revuelto de gambas y ajetes $12
Scrambled eggs with pickled green garlic shoots & shrimp
Migas y orejas $15
Spanish hash with chorizo, fried eggs and griddled pig ears
Huevos rotos $12
Olive oil-fried potatoes with broken fried eggs and diced jamón ibérico
Plato combinado $16.5
Marinated pork loin, fried eggs, fries
Tabla catalán $16
Thick toast, grated tomato, garlic cloves, exceptional Catalán olive oil, fuet (hard Catalán sausage), garrotxa cheese (cured goat), roasted red peppers
Tabla madrileña $15
Tortilla española, jamón serrano, manchego cheese, sliced tomato, warm baguette with olive oil - make a bocadillo!
Paella y fuente de ensalada $40
Today’s paella, preceded by a big salad (serves 2-3)

6) Chef Jacky Robert, French-born and often considered a standard-bearer for French cuisine, recently sold his shares in Petit Robert Bistro and is bringing his enthusiasm and experience to a new venture. He has partnered with Ms Sam Sosnitsky, owner of Pierrot Bistro, a Beacon Hill restaurant, and on Monday, June 1, the pair plan to to re-christen the lower Cambridge Street space Ma Maison Jacky Robert.

For Robert, it’s a homecoming of sorts, as he acted as consulting chef when Pierrot Bistro opened in 2004. Chef Robert promises that the menu at Ma Maison Jacky Robert will remain faithful to the precepts of classic French cuisine, while injecting an occasional element of surprise.

Debut Menu Items:
Gazpacho with Shrimp $8
Uncle Lucien’s Country Pate’ $8
Romaine Hearts with Cherries, Walnuts & Roquefort $12
Boston Celtics Salad: 4 green vegetables and seared red tuna $17
Pan-Seared Foie Gras with Apple Tatin and Rhubarb Gastrique $19
Grilled Wild Salmon with Ratatouille $20
Braised Short Ribs Bourguignon $19
U10 Scallops with Pea Risotto $20
Double Lamb Chops $20
Plats du Jour will include: sweetbreads, lamb stew and Tripe Provencal

7) On June 3, starting at 6:45-pm, Puritan & Co. Chef/Owner Will Gilson, Chef de Cuisine Alex Saenz, Wine Director Peter Nelson and the restaurant’s team pay homage to Umbria’s wines from the “Green Heart of Italy” in the next installation of “Wine Wednesdays.” Wine Director, Peter Nelson, is working with Mise Imports to select six Umbrian wines to feature at the next wine dinner on Wednesday, June 3. Umbria is known as “il cuore verde d’Italia,” the green heart of Italy.

I was at their last wine dinner and it was an exceptional time, with lots of great food and wine. This event also should be equally as good.

The Umbrian wine dinner will include a multi-course meal, paired with each wine, prepared by chef de cuisine, Alex Saenz. The wines featured at the Umbrian Wine Dinner include:

2013 “Pigro delle Sorbe” Bianco
2013 “Terre dei Preti” Bianco
NV Rossa da Tavola
2012 Sagrantino “Il Forestiero”
2012 Sangiovese “Le Cese”
2008 Sangiovese “Selezione le Cese”

Cost: $95 plus tax and gratuity
For Reservations, please call (617)-615-6195

8) On Wednesday, June 3, at 6:30pm, experience some of Hell’s Kitchen’s famous (perhaps more aptly put, infamous) plates as Chef Brendan Pelley, of Zebra’s Bistro and Wine Bar in Medfield, cooks and dishes on his Hell’s Kitchen Experience. Chef Pelley didn't win but I'm sure he has plenty of fun stories of his experiences.

The Hell’s Kitchen Dinner Party will include:

Amuse Bouche:
“WHERE’S THE WELLINGTON!!!”
Mini Beef Wellington, parma ham, mushroom duxelles
1st Course:
“THE SCALLOP IS RAW!!!”
Lightly Torched Scallop on the ½ Shell, roasted fennel puree, loukaniko vinaigrette
2nd Course:
“THE CRAB IS BURNT, YOU DONKEY”
Tempura Soft Shell Crab, yuzu aioli, quick pickles, ginger garlic sauce
3rd Course:
“THIS RISOTTO IS &#*%@*!!”
Lobster & Corn Risotto, saffron tomato broth, butter poached tail
4th Course:
“THE LAMB IS DRY, YOU MUPPET!!”
Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb, spinach orzo, cracked green olive jus
5th Course:
“NOW #@&* OFF OUT OF HERE!!”
Sticky Toffee Pudding, date puree, cardamom ice cream

Price: $85 per person
Reservations required, so please call 508-359-4100