2014 Zorah Karasi Areni Noir: An Armenian Wine

Like the country of Georgia, Armenia has an ancient history of wine making, including the use of large clay vessels for fermentation and maturation. I know little about Armenian wines except what I've recently amassed. I don't recall ever seeing any Armenian wines in local shops, until recently at Streetcar Wines in Jamaica Plain, where I found the 2014 Zorah Winery Karasi Areni Noir (about $30).

The winery was founded by Zorik Gharibian, an Italian-Armenian, with the initial purchase of small plots of land in the Vayots Dzor region, about 1600 meters above sea level. As he wanted to make more traditional wines, Zorik sourced out karasi, clay vessels similar in many respects to the qvevri used by Georgians. The use of these ancient vessels, which extend back thousands of years, has been dying out. Zorik had to seek out used vessels, searching many different villages to find what he desired. He eventually acquired about 30 karasi and restored them all to working order.

Zorik's vineyards are phylloxera-free with sandy soil, rich in limestone, and the grapes vines came from cuttings from abandoned vineyards located at a nearby 13th century monastery. His wines are fermented in concrete vats and then matured in karasi for about a year. They are then lightly filtered and spend another six months in the bottle before release.

This wine is made from the indigenous Areni Noir grape, an ancient varietal that also extends back thousands of years. It is thought to have originated in the village of the same name in the Vayots Dzor  province. Within Armenia, it is used to make a variety of still red wines, rosé and even brandy. Considering the relative isolation of this grape, and its lengthy history, this is a grape that reflects Armenia, which provides a true sense of place.

This is a medium-red colored wine with a pleasing nose of red fruits and spice. On the palate, you truly experience its uniqueness as it presents with a complex and appealing melange of flavors, including red fruits, spice, herbal notes and an underlying earthiness. There is so much going on in the palate and there is also an exotic hint to the wine which will make you question its origins. It wasn't overly tannic, had plenty of acidity as well as more minerality. Delicious and food friendly, I strongly recommend this wine.

And now, I need to learn more about Armenian wines.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Scampo, at The Liberty Hotel, has chosen to extend its “Jazzy Cocktail Nights,” a weekly late-night live music series that pairs sophisticated sounds with elegant cocktails and savory bites. Designed for Bostonians looking for a new twist on the nightlife scene, the Thursday night series, from 10pm-1am, transforms Scampo’s bar and lounge area into a sleek hideaway that showcases the talents of some of the region’s top music acts whose genres include jazz, vocals, Latin rhythms, funk and blues:

May 18: Alec Hutson Trio, an eclectic group that plays folk, gypsy and jazz
May 25: Tony Leva Trio, a quintessential upright bass jazz group featuring musicians from Longy School of Music
June 1: Bonnie & The Hot Stuff, a multi-decade group spanning classic jazz, standards and torch songs
June 8: Dylan Jack Quartet, a well-known group playing upbeat jazz with a bass clarinet, upright bass, guitar and percussion
June 15: Belén Cusi, an Argentinian singer-songwriter specializing in Latin jazz
June 22: Josef Nadj, an electric violinist who leads a quartet that plays jazz fusion and will feature a special guest vocalist

With the new series comes a dedicated list of cocktails and bar bites available exclusively during the Thursday performances from 10pm-1am. For single-serve cocktails ($16 each), highlights include the Boulevardier, a stirred concoction of rye, Campari and sweet vermouth finished with an orange twist; Classy Champagne Cocktail served in a water glass with sugar cubes and a lemon twist; and, Roaring Violette with lychee, Violette, lavender, white wine and bubbles.

For those looking to take their imbibing game to the next level, there are sharable Punch Bowl Cocktails ($36) – that come shaken for two, served in festive brass pineapple-shaped vessels – like the Sparkling Jazz with Absolut, lime, Aperol and a prosecco float with floating orange pin wheels and Dubonnet Sangria with wine, fruit, anejo tequila and hibiscus with a ginger beer float and fresh fruit. For those with a late-night sweet tooth, there’s the Prohibition Milkshake ($36), a large format liquid treat of vodka, chocolate ice cream, crème de cacao, Kahlua and bubbles served with freshly made mini bacon doughnuts.

On the culinary side, there are a quintet of items that are available in addition to Scampo’s seasonal pizza offerings: Veal & Pork Meatballs in a 17-minute candeli sauce with shaved pecorino gremolata ($12); Fried Arancini with Pomodoro and parmesan ($10); Calamari a la Plancha with fennel salad and chipotle aioli ($10); Bruschetta with homemade ricotta, candied pistachios and warm guanciale ($11); and Lydia’s Stuffed Dates ($11).

2) This Sunday, from 5pm-1pm, Taberna de Haro will open in honor of BU Graduation. They are accepting reservations, whether or not you are a BU grad. Starting June 4, Taberna de Haro will also open every Sunday with a special menu consisting of cold tapas. All will be priced at $5 each.

Here's a sample menu of Sunday's Tapas ($5 each)
Gildas ~ 2 toothpicks full of salty briny things
Canapé de jamón ibérico ~ one perfect Iberian ham canapé
Manchego con anchoa ~ sheep cheese w anchovy, evoo
Montaditos de erizo ~ mini canapés of sea urchin paté
Mar y montaña ~ tomato bread, one fuet, one tinned mackerel
Patatas alioli ~ garlic potato salad
Chorizo picante ~ spicy hard chorizo, evoo, picos
Mojama y huevas ~ cured tuna & mullet roe, olives
Tomates con atún ~ fresh tomato, tuna, onion, sherry vinaigrette
Cogollo con queso azul ~ Gem lettuce wedge w Spanish blue cheese
Alcachofas con pimiento rojo, boquerón, alioli ~ artichoke hearts, roasted red pepper, white anchovy, alioli
Arzua Ulloa con miel y nueces ~ Galician soft cheese with honey and walnuts

To make a reservation, please call 617-277-8272

Ciders of Spain: Viuda de Angelón & Guzman Riestra

"Really, it is the Asturian cider makers who are calling the attention of Americans to your magnificent region and sidra is serving as an excellent ambassador."
--James Asbel

Besides my love for the diverse wines of Spain, from briny Manzanilla Sherry to aged Rioja, from crisp Albarino to fruity Mencia, I also enjoy their Ciders, from Asturias (which are known as Sidra) and the Basque region (which are known as Sagardoa). Cider may even have originated in Spain a few thousand years ago. Spanish ciders present their own unique flavor profiles and it's great to see more of them entering the U.S. market.

A Ciders of Spain tasting event, led by importer James Asbel, was recently held at Pemberton Farms in Cambridge, and two Sidra makers were in attendance, from Viuda de Angelón & Guzman Riestra. I've previously enjoyed Sidra from both of these producers but I wanted the opportunity to meet and speak with the Sidra makers. Please check out my two prior posts for more background and history on Ciders of Spain, James Asbel, Sidra and some specific reviews: Ciders of Spain: Asturian Cider (Part 1) and Ciders of Spain: Asturian Cider (Part 2).

Francisco Ordoñez Vigil, pictured above, is the main Sidra maker at Viuda de Angelón (the "widow of Angelon"), which was founded in 1947 by Alfredo Ordoñez Onís at the orchards of La Alameda. In 1978 the cidery was moved to La Teyera, Nava, home of the annual Asturian Cider Competition and the Museo de la Sidra de Asturias. It remains a family-owned and operated artisan cidery and they also operate a sidrería, a cider pub, in the center of Nava.

Francisco is a 3rd generation Sidra maker and acquired an oenology degree from the University of Valencia. Though he worked in the wine industry first, he eventually gravitated back to the family cidery. There isn't a school in Spain for cider making, so an oenology degree is the closest educational degree you can acquire. Francisco has been able to apply his winemaking knowledge, bringing more scientific analysis to the Sidra production. Francisco produces a wide range of Sidra, four of which are currently imported into the U.S. He stated that his biggest challenge in Sidra making is growing the apples.

The Sidra Brut Viuda de Angelón (about $16) is a Sparkling Off-Dry Cider made from 5 varieties of cider apples, though the exact proportions of each will vary some year to year. They have some of their own orchards, which are organic though not certified, and they purchase some apples from other local, organic orchards. Their orchards are quite steep so they must be do all hand harvesting, which is certainly laborious work. They also raise some livestock, including sheep and cows, which graze in the orchard.

Like all of their Sidras, the initial fermentation for the Brut occurs in an open tank and using wild yeasts. The cider will be cold shocked so some residual sugar remains within it, meaning they don't need to add additional sugar for the second fermentation, which occurs in a sealed tank. In addition, before that second fermentation, the cider is matured for about eight months in large chestnut barrels. It is cold shocked for a second time during the second fermentation so a little residual sugar, about 9 grams/liter, remains in the bottle. With a mild sweetness, this bubbly has rich apple flavors and would make a nice summer drink. There isn't much of a history of how well this Brut will age, but James believes it has a good aging potential.

The 1947 Sidra de Neuva Expresion (about $13) is a Petillant Semi-Dry Cider, produced from a blend of 14 apple varieties, all from their own orchards, with a rough breakdown of about 75% sharp, 15% bitter-sharp and the rest bitter-sweet. Fermentation occurs in an open chestnut vat, with wild yeasts, and I was quite surprised that they also allow it to mature in the open vat for about 12 months!  The vats are old, some being as much as a hundred years or more, and are quite large, about 15,000 liters. Some of the vats are stored underground while others are at ground level. The chestnut provides a touch of sweetness to the cider.

How can the cider survive for 12 months in an open vat? First, the cider actually forms a type of flor atop it, like occurs with Sherry, protecting the cider from oxygen and bacteria. In addition, as they use higher acidity apples, that is another element protecting the cider. The cider is unfiltered, unfined and doesn't undergo any cold shock. It possesses a strong, appealing apple aroma and on the palate, it presents as mostly dry and crisp, with only the slightest hint of sweetness, with a mild effervescence, enough to be a nice palate cleanser and excellent for food pairings. It has delicious apple flavors, with a lengthy pleasing finish, and was one of my Top Three Sidras of the previous tasting.

The Viuda de Angelón Sidra de Pera ($3.50/330ml) is a Sparkling Off-Dry Perry, made from several varieties of pears from their estate. Perry production might extend back to the ancient Romans and was popular in Asturias during the last couple hundred years though mostly it was made by families at home and there was little, if any, commercial production. The pear trees are wild, organic and over 70 years old. Once the pears are picked, they are first fermented in stainless steel, with wild yeasts, and then mature for about four months in chestnut vats. Then, they undergo a second fermentation in the tank.

This is an impressive Perry, with a harmonious blend of earthiness with subtle pear flavor and a mild effervescence. It is dry and refreshing, with lots of depth. It would be excellent on its own or paired with food, especially something with umami. Absolutely delicious, it was also one of my a Top Three Sidras of the previous tasting.

I had some concerns last week when I read a news article from La Sidra titled "The Spanish administration bans pear cider." The article states "So now this category, pear cider, turns to be illegal and prevents the sale of perry with its own name. In Asturies, as we said, pear cider is a traditional and historical product as apple cider, despite its production and consumption was decreaded lately. Only the cider mill Viuda de Angelón produced this product since 2011 and now it will have to stop its production and distributon of this beverage, while the shops and cider bars can still sell this."

Fortunately, I spoke with James Asbel who soothed my worries, as the La Sidra article apparently wasn't fully accurate. James stated that Spain had only banned the use of the term "sidra" in referring to a "perry." As such, it will have no impact on production and sales, and no impact on Viuda de Angelón's labeling in the U.S. Perry can certainly still be produced in Spain, just as long as you don't try to label it as a sidra. Francisco Ordoñez Vigil, of Viuda de Angelón, has indicated he might decide to change over to the use of perea, the traditional term for Perry.

Raul Riestra, pictured above, is the main Sidra maker at Guzman Riestra, which was founded back in 1906 by Robustiano Riestra and it eventually was passed on to his daughter, Etelvina Riestra. With her husband, Ricardo Riestra Hortal, they eventually implemented some modern advances. Today, the cidery is in the hands of Raul and Ruben Riestra, the great grandsons of the founder, and Raul, with a business degree, is the chief cider maker.

Raul does not have an oenology degree but has always worked at the family cidery so he has learned everything on the job. Riestra grows some of their own apples and also purchases some. About 40% of their apples are from the local area, 40% are from little further away, and about another 20% come from Normandy, France. The cidery has about 30 vats for their apples, including chestnut, stainless steel and fiberglass. When making Sidra, the same juice goes into 3-4 vats to maintain consistency and they don't fill the vats all the way, allowing room for expansion.

Like Angelón, they conduct open vat fermentations, with wild yeasts. After the October harvest, fermentation can take about six weeks, though during the colder months, fermentation takes longer, and can extend even as long as 9 months. This is not a problem, as it allows them to more evenly spread out their availability. Overall, they produce about 850,000 liters of Sidra annually. Their greatest challenge is trying to press so many apples in such a short time.

The Sidra Natural Riestra (about $9.50/700ml) is a dry, unfiltered Sidra and when you are pouring it into a glass, you hold the bottle high in the area, a practice known as escanciar, which helps to aerate the cider as well as make it fizzier. It possesses a very mild earthiness, with much more rich apple flavors and stronger tannins. It is dry with sour and bitter notes as well as good acidity. This too would be excellent with a variety of food pairings, including cheese. The U.S. imports about 50% of the total production of this Sidra.

The Guzman Riestra Sidra Brut Nature (about $16/750ml) is a sparkling dry Sidra made in the Methode Champenoise. They select 2-3 tanks specifically for this Brut, only the best of their Sidra. It is matured for about 4 months in the tank, is then filtered and fined, before receiving a dosage and undergoing a second fermentation in the bottle. It spends at least four months in the bottle, and usually longer, and is commonly released about five months after disgorgment. The U.S. imports about 30% of the total production of this Brut.

The Brut is clean and dry with moderate bubbles, a mild earthiness, a bright apple flavor, a hint of tropical fruit, and a pleasingly long finish. It has similar tannins to the other Riestra and this could stand up to stronger foods, like cured meats.

Asturian Sidra offers a compelling and more unique flavor profile, with a great sense of history and tradition. And the Sidras in this article, from Ciders of Spain, offer an excellent value as well. A number of local wine and liquor shops now stock these Sidras, and if they don't, you should ask them to carry them.

Pierde Almas +9 Botanicals: The First Mezcal-Gin

"I exercise strong self-control. I never drink anything stronger than gin before breakfast."
--W.C. Fields

I'm very particular about gin as I dislike those with an overly strong juniper taste, far too piney for my preferences, and they sometimes remind me of cheap aftershave. I feel that the other botanicals get lost in those gins, vastly dominated by the juniper. I much prefer gin which has a more balanced melange of botanicals. A couple of my favorites include the Barrel-Aged Tom Cat Gins from Caledonia Spirits in Hardwick, Vermont and Aviation Gin from House Spirits Distillery in Portland, Oregon.

Recently, I learned of a unique Mezcal-Gin, said to possess a more balanced blend of nine botanicals, and I knew I needed to taste it. I love Mezcal so was curious how the gin botanicals would affect the taste. And the more I learned about this unique spirit, the more I was intrigued.

"I've tried Buddhism, Scientology, Numerology, Transcendental Meditation, Qabbala, t'ai chi, feng shui and Deepak Chopra but I find straight gin works best."
--Phyllis Diller

Pierde Almas is a Mezcal producer devoted to being a socially, culturally and environmentally responsible company. I recently wrote about their fascinating and delicious Mezcal de Conejo, a Pechuga made with wild rabbit, and they make a variety of other Mezcals too. After some experimentation, that started back in 2011, Master Distiller Jonathan Barbieri invented Mezcal-Gin, aka Ginebra de Agave, a Gin which uses Mezcal as its base spirit. This intriguing creation is now bottled and sold as Pierde Almas +9 Botanicals.

With assistance from Maestro Mezcalero Gregorio Velasco, production of the +9 Botanicals begins using the Pierde Almas Espadín Mezcal as its base. This Mezcal is made very traditionally, with natural fermentation in wooden vats and relying upon wild yeasts. After undergoing a double distillation, the Mezcal undergoes a third distillation, this time with the addition of nine botanicals, including juniper, coriander, star anise, fennel seed, orange peel, cassia bark, angelica root, orris root, and nutmeg. Currently, all of those botanicals are sourced within Mexico, which is also a source of pride for the distillery. That certainly makes it much more of a local spirit. This third distillation occurs in a 100-liter copper pot alembic and they only produce about 200 liters per bottling.

"The Greek physician Galen, writing in the second century AD, said that juniper berries “cleanse the liver and kidneys, and they evidently thin any thick and viscous juices, and for this reason they are mixed in health medicines.” This certainly suggests a mixture of juniper berries and alcohol, although that, too, would have tasted nothing like the superb gins we drink today."
--The Drunken Botanist by Amy Stewart

I obtained my bottle of Pierde Almas +9 Botanicals ($94.99) at Astor Wine & Spirits in New York City. The label notes that this is a Joven Mezcal (basically unaged), with a 45% ABV, and it is #443 of only 720 bottles. At the bottom of the label, it has the phrase "Otra vez esta maldita felicidad" which translates as "Again this damn happiness." I can understand why this Mezcal would bring on happiness. However, what you won't see on the label is that it is a Gin. Why is that so?

The answer to that question needs to start with another question, whether +9 Botanicals is legally a Gin in the U.S. Under the Code of Federal Regulations, Chapter 27: Alcohol, Tobacco & Firearms, Part 5--Labeling and Advertising of Distilled Products, you have to consult Subpart C--Standards of Identity for Distilled Spirits, section 5.22(c) which states: “Gin” is a product obtained by original distillation from mash, or by redistillation of distilled spirits, or by mixing neutral spirits, with or over juniper berries and other aromatics, or with or over extracts derived from infusions, percolations, or maceration of such materials, and includes mixtures of gin and neutral spirits. It shall derive its main characteristic flavor from juniper berries and be bottled at not less than 80° proof."

As it meets these qualifications, the +9 Botanicals could legally be labeled as a Gin so you would expect that the label would state that it was a Gin. However, there is a secondary issue which must be considered. The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) doesn't permit producers to put multiple categories on a spirit's label. Thus, Pierde Almas had to make the decision whether to label the +9 Botanicals as a Mezcal or a Gin. They were not permitted to include both categories, even if their spirit qualified as both. Jonathan told me that they ultimately decided to keep it in the domain of Mezcal which certainly makes sense as it then fits well within the rest of their Mezcal portfolio.

"The gin and tonic has saved more Englishmen's lives, and minds, than all the doctors in the Empire."
--Winston Churchill

Would the +9 Botanicals be too juniper heavy? That was certainly my concern but I was reassured by Jonathan Barbieri that wasn't his intent. He explained to me, "I'm not a fan of the lonely juniper berry soprano, singing way out in front about all that pine tar and turpentne. I wanted to bring up the chorus - like the "slave song" in Verdi's Nabucco. So, all of those Mediterranean spices and oriental botanicals share the stage, and in the pit, the orchestra is well, Espadín in all its earthy flesh." How could you not be compelled by Jonathan's poetic words?

After I poured myself a glass, I found that the primary aroma was the piney nose of juniper, and I was sure that I was smelling a gin. No one would be confused in that regard. Beneath that piney nose were more subtle herbal notes. Once I tasted it, the Mezcal elements made themselves known, and I found it to be an intriguing and complex spirit. There were plenty of citrus notes up front, with an interesting melange of spices and herbs, as well as a smoky edge, especially on the finish. The piney notes of the juniper became much more integrated into the whole, and the other botanicals joined the complex mix. The juniper might have been primary on the nose, but the taste became the great equalizer.

This is definitely a sipping spirit, which is quite enjoyable neat, and each sip seems to bring new flavors to your palate. However, the +9 Botanicals would also bring more unique flavors to traditional Gin cocktails, or intriguing botanicals to a Mezcal cocktail. I will be experimenting with some Gin cocktails in the near future. A Mezcal-Gin Martini? A Mezcal-Gin Margarita?

If you already love Gin, then you should check out the Pierde Almas 9+ Botanicals for its unique flavor combinations. If you aren't a huge fan of Gin, then you should still check it out as it is likely to appeal to you anyway. And if you love Mezcal, then this is definitely something you need to experience. Kudos to Pierde Almas for another winner of a Mezcal.

"Forget the cheap white wine: go to beef and gin!"
--Julia Child

Rant: Drink Writers, Burst Your Bubble

Drink writers, especially if they have a narrow focus in their writing, can easily find themselves isolated within a bubble. They might write only about something specific like Italian wine, Sparkling wines, Rum, or Bourbon. Or maybe they write about a more general category of drinks, such as wine, beer, or whiskey.

In addition to the limits of what they write, they might also surround themselves with others who share their interest, who they meet to share their chosen libations. On social media, they will follow others who share their chosen interest. In addition, they will likely read books, magazines and articles about their chosen interest. They immerse themselves in their chosen speciality, excluding anything outside of that circle.

They probably don't even realize that they've created a bubble around themselves, limiting their exposure to outside views and experiences. They feel safe and secure inside their bubble, buoyed up by their friends who share similar interests. Everything they experience is presented through the same lens, the same filters. As such, they miss out on information and experiences which are outside this narrow lens, yet they never realize that they're missing anything. In essence, they may be blissfully ignorant.

By existing within a bubble, they can miss out on the greater context of their chosen drink, failing to understand how it compares and contrasts to other beverages. They need to take off their blinders, which keep them walking down a narrow path, and look out at a greater world. They can look at their chosen interest with new eyes, potentially finding new approaches to their interest, realizing new ideas which will broaden their knowledge. It's a great way to improve their writing, to make it fresher and more relevant.

For example, I write about both Wine and Sake, and it has been enlightening to compare and contrast the two beverages. They possess interesting similarities and differences and similarities which cause me to think more critically about each, seeing them in a greater context than if I concentrated on only one of them. For example, when pairing food and Sake, umami is an important consideration. However, most people rarely consider umami when pairing wine and food, unless they have had experiences with Sake. Though Wine possesses less umami than Sake, it still can play a role in food pairings.

Beer and wine have their significant differences too, and by learning more about each, you can break out of your bubble and view matters in a larger context. Consider how beer consumers view pricing, how $15 a bottle can seem like such a high price, yet in the wine world, $15 a bottle is often considered a value price. Each type of spirit also brings with it a unique framework, well worth exploring.

The drinks industry is wide and wonderful, a myriad of experiences which bring new knowledge and allow you to view old knowledge through different lenses. Don't box yourself in to a specific alcohol but allow yourself to be more open, to have an adventurous palate.  Break out of your bubble and welcome the new.

I should note that I'm not advocating that you have to write about all of these different types of alcohol. What I'm trying to get across is that you should learn more about these other beverages, reading and researching, so you better understand them. That knowledge should help you better understand your chosen beverages and should lead to better articles. There is no downside to learning more about other drinks.