Monday, November 1, 2021

2020 Saint-Famille Lost Bell Baco Noir: A 100+ Year Old Hybrid

"Among these wines, Baco Noir is the only eastern cheese partner. It is a full-bodied red from a grape of the same name, which makes it a 'varietal' wine. The grape is expected to have a great future in eastern winemaking."
--Chicago Tribune, November 3, 1968 

Baco Noir is a French hybrid grape, whose origin extends back to 1902, though it was initially called Baco 24-23. It didn't become known as Baco Noir until 1964 and very little is currently grown in France. In the early 1950s, the grape was planted in North America and currently you'll find it grown in various states as well as Canada, including Nova Scotia. 

I've enjoyed Baco Noir before, primarily from the Hudson-Chatham Winery in New York, and they have ended up on my prior Top Ten Wine lists. I also previously highlighted some intriguing historical items, found in old newspapers, concerning the some of the earliest mentions of Baco Noir grape in North America, 

Recently, I tried a Baco Noir from Nova Scotia, the 2020 Saint-Famille Lost Bell Baco Noir (about $20). Saint-Famille Wines is located in Falmouth, on a hill overlooking the Avon River Valley. This region was settled by the Acadians around 1685 and was known as La Paroisse Sainte Famille De Pisiquid, "the Parish of the Blessed Family on the Pisiquid." The winery, founded by Doug and Suzanne Corkum, adopted this name for their own. They bought the farm over 40 years ago, planting an acre of vines in 1980, and they now have some of the oldest vines in Nova Scotia. In 1990, they established their winery and Suzanne became the first female winemaker in Nova Scotia.

Most recently, Tracy Lake, the Corkum's daughter, took over the winery several years ago and may not be trying to sell the winery. 

The back label of the wine states, "It is one of the warmest vineyard sites in Nova Scotia, resulting in rich, full-bodied reds and white with exceptional character." 95% of their wines are made with estate grown grapes, and they purchase the rest from other local growers. They currently grow about 12 different grapes, including 8 whites and 4 reds. 

The 2020 Saint-Famille Baco Noir is likely made from 100% Baco Noir, although the winery website doesn't provide any details on this wine and its production. It has an 11% ABV, making it one of the lower alcohol red wines I've had in some time. It's a dark colored wine, with pleasant black fruit aromas and a hint of spice. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, easy drinking, with lots of juicy black fruit flavors, including blackberry and black cherry. It's an everyday wine, fine on its own, although it will pair well with everything from burgers to pizza, pasta to stews. It is a relatively simple wine, but not a one-note wine. 

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