A small number of Jews have lived in the Boston area since at least since the 18th century, but it wasn't until around 1880 that much more significant Jewish immigration to Boston began. Many thousands moved to the North End, especially around Salem Street, but in the 1890s, a number also moved to the area of Chinatown.
In comparison, Jewish immigration to New York City started much earlier, establishing a strong Jewish community. For example, the Fall River Daily Evening News (MA), November 19, 1867, noted there were about 40 Jewish restaurants in New York City. At that time, there weren't any Jewish restaurants in Boston, and wouldn't be for over twenty years.
The first Jewish restaurant in Boston wouldn't open until 1889. The Fall River Daily Evening News (MA), October 31, 1889, reported that a new Kosher restaurant “on an extensive scale” had just opened in Boston, “where the meat has been killed according to the law of Moses.” The name and location of the restaurant was not provided in the article. However, it seems likely that it was located in the North End, where most of the Jewish population in Boston was based.
The first Jewish restaurant in Boston wouldn't open until 1889. The Fall River Daily Evening News (MA), October 31, 1889, reported that a new Kosher restaurant “on an extensive scale” had just opened in Boston, “where the meat has been killed according to the law of Moses.” The name and location of the restaurant was not provided in the article. However, it seems likely that it was located in the North End, where most of the Jewish population in Boston was based.
It seems likely that five years later, this same restaurant was mentioned again, with a bit more detail, although the name of the restaurant wasn't provided. The Boston Globe (MA), January 7, 1894, stated, "The only Jewish restaurant in this city is on Hanover st. About 125 customers take meals there every day. There is a different bill of fare each day. The prices are high enough to keep out unwelcome guests, the price of dinner being 40 cents." The 40-cent dinner consists of soup, roast and boiled meats, including chicken, turkey or goose. Tea, coffee, milk, pie and pudding are served. The people who eat there are 'everyday people.' There one might ask for 'noodle soup' and be understood by the pretty waiter, but not by the ordinary American. The new customer might receive a cup of tea or coffee when it is called for, but the everyday patron will have his in a cup."
By the mid-1890s, a number of Jews began settling or working on Harrison Avenue in Chinatown. The Boston Globe, June 28, 1896, printed an article that was subtitled, “Harrison Av Home of Many Jewish Merchants” Salem Street, in the North End, had a new rival for being the primary area for Jewish merchants. The article continued, "Harrison av, whose name suggests the word ‘Chinatown,’ is now, and has been for several years, offering extra inducements to purchasers of property for persons desiring to form a new settlement.” It was also noted, "This district had no Jewish families a few years ago. Now they are in full control...There are barber shops, butcher establishments, Jewish restaurants, furniture, new and second hand. Everything needed to successfully start housekeeping is for sale on a very small space of ground.” So, Jewish restaurants now existed in Chinatown.
By the mid-1890s, a number of Jews began settling or working on Harrison Avenue in Chinatown. The Boston Globe, June 28, 1896, printed an article that was subtitled, “Harrison Av Home of Many Jewish Merchants” Salem Street, in the North End, had a new rival for being the primary area for Jewish merchants. The article continued, "Harrison av, whose name suggests the word ‘Chinatown,’ is now, and has been for several years, offering extra inducements to purchasers of property for persons desiring to form a new settlement.” It was also noted, "This district had no Jewish families a few years ago. Now they are in full control...There are barber shops, butcher establishments, Jewish restaurants, furniture, new and second hand. Everything needed to successfully start housekeeping is for sale on a very small space of ground.” So, Jewish restaurants now existed in Chinatown.
The Boston Globe, September 5, 1896, mentioned that Salem Street, Lowell Street, and Harrison Avenue were all places where Kosher meat could be obtained.
Did the Jews of Harrison Avenue patronize the Chinese restaurants of that area? It's difficult to know for sure, but definitely seems possible. Much depends on how strongly the Jew wanted to eat kosher and whether they saw Chinese restaurants as acceptable under their dietary laws. At the very least, some Jews might have dined at Chinese restaurants on Christmas Day, especially considering most other restaurants were closed.
As I mentioned in another article, Chinatown's restaurants on Christmas in 1897 were relatively empty. However, the Boston Globe, December 26, 1898, reported, “Down in Chinatown Christmas was observed in the ‘same old way.’ The Chinamen simply regard it as a pretty good time for business, and they are not so far out of the way, judging from last evening, for every restaurant in Chinatown was crowded by white folks.”
How many of those customers might have been Jewish? It seems likely that some of them might have been Jewish, as they weren't involved in Christmas celebrations at home like most non-Jews. And many other restaurants were closed on Christmas, so Chinese restaurants were one of the few available options. If so, then the Jewish tradition in Boston of eating Chinese on Christmas extends back about 128 years!
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From 1900-1920, a number of Jewish Kosher restaurants would open in Chinatown, including one of the longest lasting, Prime Restaurant.
The Standard-Times, November 5, 1900, reported that Benjamin Holshanetsky, a Jewish restaurant keeper, had been charged with keeping liquor with intent to unlawfully sell the same. Police raided his searched his restaurant, with a warrant, and found 3 pint bottles of lager, a half pint of brandy, a bottle of cherries and rum, a small quantity of light wine, and several empty bottles, Benjamin claimed it was only for his family, but he was found guilty and fined $50.
The Boston Globe, May 18, 1901, published an ad, “Board and rooms for the summer season, everything first-class, salt water bathing, boating, fishing, etc; engage early. Mrs. Stone’s Kosher restaurant, 174 Chamber st, Boston.”
The Boston Globe, August 7, 1905, briefly noted that the Jewish section of Salem Street had a number of Jewish restaurants.
The Jewish Advocate, March 3, 1906, posted this ad for Fewes Kosher Restaurant, located on 78 Kingston Street.
The Jewish Advocate, October 8, 1909, had this advertisement for Guterman's Restaurant, alleging it was "The Oldest and Best Kosher Restaurant in Boston." It was located at 94 Essex Street, which would have placed it on the Chinatown border. However, I haven't been able to find any additional information about this restaurant, such as the date they were established. It's thus can't confirm that it was the "oldest" Kosher restaurant in the city.
The Jewish Advocate, October 28, 1920, provided maybe the first advertisement for the opening of Prime Restaurant, a new Kosher spot located in Chinatown, on 155 Harrison Avenue. The ad stated it was “where a real god meal will be served at all times.”
The Jewish Advocate, September 21, 1922, published another ad for Prime, noting it was a Kosher Restaurant and Delicatessen, and "Meals Served at All Hours."
The Jewish Advocate, March 18, 1926, had another ad, recommending Jews patronize the restaurant for Passover. It was also noted that breakfast was served at 6am, and dinner at 10am.
The Jewish Advocate, May 10 and 17, 1928, mentioned that Prime was probably the largest Jewish restaurant in Boston and now have opened a strictly vegetarian restaurant at 11 Harrison Avenue, "The Only One of Its Kind in Boston."
The Jewish Advocate, April 11, 1930, promoted the restaurant for Passover meals, from Passover Suppers to Passover dishes at their Cafeteria and Vegetarian spots.
The Jewish Advocate, November 6, 1931, noted that Prime was "The Finest Jewish Restaurant in the Heart of the Theatrical and Business Center."
Another advertisement in The Jewish Advocate, September 15, 1936.
The Jewish Advocate, March 26, 1937, had an ad about their Passover meals.
The Jewish Advocate, December 16, 1938, noted that Prime would have a New Year Party for two nights.
The Jewish Advocate, February 17, 1939, had an ad, noting you could now dine and dance at the restaurant, which now had a "special floor show" and no cover charge.
The Boston Herald, August 11, 1940, had a notice of an auction of dining room and kitchen fixtures and equipment of the Prime Restaurant, likely due to the fire, smoke, and water damage. The restaurant was apparently closed for a time, but reopening in less than a year.
The Jewish Advocate, April 11, 1941, published an ad for the Prime Restaurant, noting it would re-open on April 11.
Another ad for Prime in the Jewish Advocate, April 3, 1942. It was noted they now had a new dining room and banquet hall, which can accommodate over 300 people.
The Prime restaurant continues to promote itself for Passover in an ad in the Jewish Advocate, March 10, 1949.
The Jewish Advocate, November 7, 1957, mentioned Prime would serve Thanksgiving dinners.
It's probably not a surprise then that Boston Herald, June 23, 1963, posted an ad for an auction of the equipment and furnishings for the Prime Restaurant. For over 40 years, Prime Restaurant, located in Chinatown, was one of the premiere Kosher restaurants in Boston. Because of its popularity, and location, many Jews spent time walking through Chinatown, and likely became curious about the Chinese restaurants.
A quick note: The Jewish Advocate was a weekly Jewish newspaper, established in 1902, serving Greater Boston and the New England area. It was an important source of information for the Jewish community, and helped to promote the idea of Jews patronizing Chinese restaurants.
The Jewish Advocate, September 7, 1907, presented the first advertisement in their newspaper for a Chinese restaurant, the Hankow, on 19 Essex Street. The ad noted the cleanliness of the restaurant, and that it will become "one of the BEAUTY SPOTS of Boston." However, it seems it would be nearly 20 years before the Jewish Advocate would run another ad for a Chinese restaurant. This might indicate that Chinese restaurants weren't too popular with the Jewish community until the mid-1920s.
It wasn't until 1926 that the next advertisement for a Chinese restaurant was published. The Jewish Advocate, September 9, 1926, had an ad for the King Joy Chinese Restaurant, at 311 Union Street, The ad also wished a Happy New Year to the Jewish community, referring to Rosh Hashanah, which was celebrated from September 8-10, 1926. A burst of other Chinese restaurants would advertise in the newspaper during the rest of 1926. This might have been the beginning of the close connection between Jews and Chinese food in Boston.
The Jewish Advocate, September 16, 1926, presented an ad for China Rose, offering specials meals, including a Club Lunch for 45 cents, a Table D'Hote Dinner for 85 cents, and Sunday & Holiday Special for $1.25. Dancing was also available at the restaurant.
The Jewish Advocate, September 16, 1926, also had an ad for the Palm Garden, with similarly priced special meals. The restaurant also offered music, but didn't mention whether dancing was available as well.
The Jewish Advocate, September 23, 1926, published this ad for the Santung Restaurant, which offered a Special Luncheon every day, and also had dancing.
The Jewish Advocate, November 11, 1926, had an ad for the Tremont Gardens, noting you could dine and dance.
The Jewish Advocate, December 16, 1926, published this ad for Young China, promoting its "Chicken Chow Mein."
The Jewish Advocate, December 16, 1926, also had this ad, for the Si Woo Restaurant, noting it was taking New Year Reservations.
The Jewish Advocate, December 23, 1926, published this ad for Yen Ho, an "American-Chinese Restaurant de Luxe." The restaurant offered music and dancing, and its New Year reservations cost $5.00 per plate.
The Jewish Advocate, December 23, 1926, also had an ad for Chung Sai, promoting its New Year's Eve celebration.
The Jewish Advocate, August 19, 1926, mentioned, “It was only a few years ago that Joe Rines just out of high school gathered several other young men and organized a band. Then came the radio and his appearance several times a week through Jackson’s Cabin on Station WEEI and now he has under his direction five leading orchestras in several of the most exclusive resorts in New England.” Joe was obviously very talented and driven, coming very far in only a short time.
The Jewish Advocate, July 28, 1927, published the above photo of Joe Rines. The accompanying article noted that Rines had come from an unusual family of musicians. “His grandfather was the leader and owner of the first band in the city of Boston and his grandfather and uncle practically controlled all of the better type of musical organizations about the time that the first Boston Musicians’ Union was formed.” In addition, other family members, including uncles and cousins were also musicians. As for Joe, “While Joe can now play almost every instrument in his 10-piece orchestra he is not satisfied. His one ambition is to be able to play every instrument in his orchestra well.” Personally, Joe was married, his wife named Gertrude, and they had a 2 1/2 year old daughter, Barbara.
The Jewish Advocate, March 7, 1929, claimed that about 3 and ½ years ago, Joe Rines, had an intriguing idea. “The idea of a dance floor in a Chinese restaurant had not been tried in Boston until Mr. Rines persuaded the manager of the San Tung Restaurant to mix dance notes with chop suey and install a dance floor. The idea caught on, and it was a success from the first.” It was also said that this idea made him “the ‘Paul Whitman’ of Boston, master of jazz, and entertainer par excellence.” Currently, Joe is the maestro of the Metropolitan Theatre Orchestra.” He was also popular on the radio, and it was noted, “It is said that he individually handles more radio work than any other Boston musician and employs more than 100 men weekly.”
The Boston Herald, February 25, 1919, had an advertisement for the opening of the Santung Restaurant, at 241-243 Huntington Avenue. They offered music every evening.
Six years later, the Boston Herald, January 25, 1926, published the first ad for the Santung which mentioned dancing was now available at the restaurant. There was no mention of the involvement of Joe Rines, but that might have been expected.
The Standard-Times, November 5, 1900, reported that Benjamin Holshanetsky, a Jewish restaurant keeper, had been charged with keeping liquor with intent to unlawfully sell the same. Police raided his searched his restaurant, with a warrant, and found 3 pint bottles of lager, a half pint of brandy, a bottle of cherries and rum, a small quantity of light wine, and several empty bottles, Benjamin claimed it was only for his family, but he was found guilty and fined $50.
The Boston Globe, May 18, 1901, published an ad, “Board and rooms for the summer season, everything first-class, salt water bathing, boating, fishing, etc; engage early. Mrs. Stone’s Kosher restaurant, 174 Chamber st, Boston.”
The Boston Globe, August 7, 1905, briefly noted that the Jewish section of Salem Street had a number of Jewish restaurants.
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Prime Restaurant Co., was organized on September 17, 1920 and incorporated the next day. At this time, the area was a hub for the garment industry, which had strong Jewish involvement and investment. So, having a Kosher restaurant nearby was a benefit to many. Prime Restaurant would last for over 40 years!
The Jewish Advocate, April 22, 1926, had a short article on Joe Bullian, the manager of The Prime Restaurant. It was also noted that the owner of the restaurant was William Josephs and it "is now considered one of the leading Kosher restaurants in the city." It was also mentioned that copies of the Jewish Advocate would now be placed on every table at the restaurant for the customers.
The Jewish Advocate, March 19, 1937, had a brief article about Prime Restaurant, stating it would offer strictly Kosher meals for Passover, "featuring special suppers and services at the first and second seders in their newly created Kosher Dining Room at 9 1/2 Harrison avenue (upstairs) with Rabbi B. Mostofsky certifying to the kashruth."
Unfortunate news! The Boston Globe, July 26, 1939, reported that there had been a two-alarm fire at the five-story brick building located at 9 1/2-11-13 Harrison Avenue. The damages were estimated at about $10,000. The first two floors had been occupied by Prime Restaurant and had been filled with flames and smoke. There was also water and smoke damage to the upper floors.
The Jewish Advocate, April 18, 1941, ran a brief article mentioning that the Prime Restaurant and Cocktail Bar had formally reopened last week. The proprietor was noted as being Willie Joseph. The article also stated, "The Cocktail Bar will be opened to the public April 22, serving the finest nationally advertised brands of ale, beer, and bonded liquors at popular prices."
The Boston Evening Globe, January 18, 1961, had an obituary for William Joseph, age 70, who was the Treasurer of the Prime Restaurant while his brother, Benjamin, was the President. Then, the Boston Globe, August 5, 1962, reported that Benjamin Joseph, age 62, had died too. He was noted as the former owner of the Prime Restaurant, and two other restaurants. The new owner of Prime had been Isaac Manski, who came to the U.S. in 1937 from Poland. The Boston Herald Traveler, July 13, 1967, reported that Isaac, aged 72, had died.
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In Dining Out in Boston: A Culinary History (2016) by James C. O’Connell, there was a mention of a Boston Globe article from 1916 discussing the myriad restaurants in the city. that mentioned there had been at that time about 218 Jewish owned restaurants, mainly lunchrooms and delicatessens. It was noted, "The number had grown from a single Jewish restaurant in 1894 to 218 in 1916, reflecting the immigrant influx to Boston. These restaurants were mainly lunchrooms and delicatessens, selling Eastern European bagels, borscht, chicken soup, smoked fish, latkes, and the like, usually meeting kosher standards.”
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A quick note: The Jewish Advocate was a weekly Jewish newspaper, established in 1902, serving Greater Boston and the New England area. It was an important source of information for the Jewish community, and helped to promote the idea of Jews patronizing Chinese restaurants.
There was a brief article in the Jewish Advocate, December 9, 1926, which discussed the new opening of the Symphony Restaurant, alleged to be the largest Chinese restaurant in Boston. It was located adjacent to Symphony Hall on Huntington Avenue. "Indeed the management has spared no expense to make this 'the largest and most beautiful restaurant in New England.'" It was also claimed that it would have the largest dance floor in Boston. The article also noted, "Mr. Wallace Hong of New York, who has come to the Hub to manage the 'Symphony,' has many Jewish acquaintance here in town and looks forward to their patronage."
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When did Chinese restaurants first offer dancing? The common legend is that around 1925, Joseph Rines, a famous Jewish musician, convinced the manager of the San Tung (or Santung) restaurant to install the first dance floor of any Chinese restaurant in Boston. Joseph Rines was born October 1, 1902 and would die on December 12, 1986.
The Jewish Advocate, August 19, 1926, mentioned, “It was only a few years ago that Joe Rines just out of high school gathered several other young men and organized a band. Then came the radio and his appearance several times a week through Jackson’s Cabin on Station WEEI and now he has under his direction five leading orchestras in several of the most exclusive resorts in New England.” Joe was obviously very talented and driven, coming very far in only a short time.
The Jewish Advocate, March 7, 1929, claimed that about 3 and ½ years ago, Joe Rines, had an intriguing idea. “The idea of a dance floor in a Chinese restaurant had not been tried in Boston until Mr. Rines persuaded the manager of the San Tung Restaurant to mix dance notes with chop suey and install a dance floor. The idea caught on, and it was a success from the first.” It was also said that this idea made him “the ‘Paul Whitman’ of Boston, master of jazz, and entertainer par excellence.” Currently, Joe is the maestro of the Metropolitan Theatre Orchestra.” He was also popular on the radio, and it was noted, “It is said that he individually handles more radio work than any other Boston musician and employs more than 100 men weekly.”
However, in 1925, the Santung restaurant actually wasn't the first Chinese restaurant to offer dancing, so Joe Rines was not the first to recommend dancing.
The Boston Globe, December 30, 1920, had the above ad for the Grand Garden and their New Year's Eve Celebration which offered "Orchestra--Entertainment--Dancing--Favors, etc." This could be seen as a one-off, and that dancing was not the norm at this restaurant, simply something extra for New Year's.
However, the Boston Post, January 15, 1921 printed an ad for the new Nankin Garden, the “Latest American Chinese Restaurant,” located on Brighton Avenue, at the corner of Harvard Avenue and next door to Allston Theater. This restaurant offered dancing and a jazz orchestra, from 6:30pm-11:30pm, and it wasn't a one-off or holiday celebration. This might have been the first Chinese restaurant in Boston to offer dancing on a regular basis.
The Boston Herald, May 16, 1925, printed ads from two Chinese-American restaurants. The first was for the Santung Restaurant, which offered music and dancing. The other was the Palm Garden, at 218 Huntington Avenue which also offered music and dancing.
The Boston Herald, September 16, 1925, posted an ad for China Rose, a Chinese-American restaurant at 1088 Boylston Street in Kenmore. The restaurant offered dancing, without a cover charge.
Maybe the first recipe was presented in the Jewish Advocate, September 6, 1928. The recipe was for "American Chicken Chop Suey."
The Jewish Advocate, May 16, 1929, presented the same recipe, but it's much easier to read. As you can see, it doesn't require any special Chinese ingredients.
The Jewish Advocate, April 17, 1931, published a different American Chop Suey, which could be made with any type of meat. The most curious aspect of the recipe is that the Chop Suey was supposed to be poured over Rice Krispies!
The Jewish Advocate, July 7, 1933, had another recipe for Chinese Chop Suey, which now used a couple Chinese ingredients, such as bamboo shoots and soy sauce.
The Jewish Advocate, February 23, 1934, ran a lengthy article, titled Chinese Dishes for American Cookery by Barbara B. Brooks, Home Economics Dept, Kellogg Co. Battle Creek, Michigan. It stated, "Few of us would find time to cook many of the traditional dishes." In regards to Chop Suey, the article noted, "It was created by the Chinese in foreign lands to satisfy Western tastes." It continued, "Ingredients are cut into shoestring strips, tiny morsels, or flower-like bits. Seasoning is all important."; It also noted, "There are endless variations for making Chop Suey."
The Jewish Advocate, May 15, 1931, had an advertisement for Miller's Delicatessen and Lunch, in Brookline, which offered "Real Chop Suey To Take Out." Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find more information about the nature of the chop suey they sold.
The Boston Globe, October 12, 1952, published a help wanted ad for Counter Girls for the Chit Chat Snack Bar, at 58 Tyler Street. The Tufts Medical Journal, Vol 21 (1953) had the above ad for the spot, and again, it said little about the type of cuisine served there.
There was an ad in the Boston Herald, January 20, 1925, for the Grand Garden, an American & Chinese restaurant at 660 Washington Street, at the corner of Beach Street. This now was a Dine and Dance restaurant, and the ad predated, by a week, the Santung advertisement mentioning dancing.
The Boston Herald, November 25, 1925, printed an ad for the Court Chinese Restaurant, located at 14 Hanover Street. The Chinese-American restaurant also had music and dancing.
So, it seems dancing at Chinese restaurants extends back to at least 1920, although it didn't become a regular feature of any Chinese restaurant until 1921, four years before Joe Rines allegedly introduced dancing at Boston Chinese restaurants at the Santung restaurant.
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During the 1920s and 1930s, the Jewish Advocate presented a handful of Chinese recipes, mostly Chop Suey, although some were more Americanized.
As an aside, the Jewish Advocate, March 14, 1929, mentioned that at a local carnival, there would be a food demonstration by Alice Bradley of Miss Farmer's School of Cookery. Her demonstration would include Chicken Chop Suey and Chicken Chow Mein, both which would be Kosher. Unfortunately, her recipes were not published in the newspaper.
In the recipe above, Rokeach Nyafat was a pure vegetable shortening that was widely used as a kosher substitute for chicken fat.
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Finally, there were at least a couple restaurants which combined Jewish and Chinese foods, although they were generally prepared separately, and not as a fusion cuisine.
However, the Boston Traveler, March 16, 1956, had a brief article about the restaurant, noting it was under a combined Jewish and Chinese management team, and it featured the cuisine of both! The article stated, “Chop suey and hot pastrami are staples; blintzes and chow mein are featured; and the patrons are as polyglot as the menu.” So, it seemed the two cuisines were presented separately, and not as fusion. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find much else about this restaurant, except that in October 1956, it was up for auction. So, it only was in operation for about four years.
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Second, generally the Chinese community didn't discriminate against the Jews, but rather welcomed them. Jews faced discrimination from many other groups, so finding the Chinese to be amenable to them, to welcome them into their community was very appealing.
Third, Kashrut is the set of Jewish dietary laws that define which foods are kosher, and thus acceptable to eat, and which are treyf, unfit for consumption. One of the kashrut laws was that meat and milk shouldn't be mixed, and Chinese cuisine generally didn't violate that law. Although Chinese cuisine did serve pork and shellfish, which weren't considered kosher, the Chinese commonly chopped up the meat and seafood to tiny pieces, so it has harder to identify them. Jewish customers could convince themselves that they weren't eating anything forbidden, that they were consuming "safe treyf." Newer Jewish generations also started choosing not to follow kashrut, so they had no trouble with consuming Chinese food.
Fourth, the Jewish tradition of dining at Chinese restaurants on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day extends back over 100 years, and may even extend to the late 19th century. In Boston, I previously noted that in 1898, Chinese restaurants on Christmas Day were packed with non-Asian diners.
How many of those customers might have been Jewish? It seems likely that a fair number of them might have been Jewish, as they weren't involved in Christmas celebrations at home like most non-Jews. And many other restaurants were closed on Christmas, so Chinese restaurants were one of the few available options.
As Forrest Gump might have once said, "Jews and Chinese food go together like peas and carrots."
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